Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:29 AM - Re: trick for combing out shield? (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
2. 07:42 AM - Re: trick for combing out shield? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:56 AM - Re: trick for combing out shield? (DWENSING@aol.com)
4. 08:07 AM - Dynon EMI (different scenario) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:11 AM - Re: trick for combing out shield? (Dan Checkoway)
6. 11:22 AM - Re: trick for combing out shield? (Cy Galley)
7. 11:44 AM - shunt switch (Joel Harding)
8. 12:03 PM - Re: trick for combing out shield? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:20 PM - Re: Re: OV protection for internally (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 12:22 PM - Re: My Jabiru J400 made test flights, (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 12:25 PM - Kapton? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 01:38 PM - Re: Re: OV protection for internally regulated alternators (Clay R)
13. 01:48 PM - SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - LIGHTED TOGGLE SWITCHES (Francis, David CMDR)
14. 03:39 PM - Re: OV protection for internally regulated alternators (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 03:45 PM - Re: shunt switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 05:46 PM - Re: shunt switch (Scott Hersha)
17. 05:59 PM - Noise (Scott Hersha)
18. 06:54 PM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches (Charlie Kuss)
19. 06:54 PM - Re: Quick connects (Charlie Kuss)
20. 07:02 PM - Re: Noise (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 07:15 PM - Re: Re: OV protection for internally regulated alternators (Michel Therrien)
22. 07:51 PM - Converting a Denso Alternator (Hi There)
23. 08:11 PM - SD-8 and meltdowns (Troy Scott)
24. 09:18 PM - Re: Quick connects (Richard E. Tasker)
25. 10:26 PM - Re: Noise (Scott Hersha)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: trick for combing out shield? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 2/2/2004 10:22:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
Is there any slick trick for combing out braided shielding more easily?
Case in point, RG-400 with its double layer of shielding.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Dan,
I have always used a scribe for the task. It is best to not get too greedy,
but comb out a short section at a time, working back towards the root. A
large needle is a good substitute for the scribe. With all strands parallel, the
connector will have the best, uniform bite.
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: trick for combing out shield? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:28 AM 2/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 2/2/2004 10:22:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>dan@rvproject.com writes:
>Is there any slick trick for combing out braided shielding more easily?
>Case in point, RG-400 with its double layer of shielding.
Why comb it out? If you want to make connections to
double shields like RG-400 coax, it's probably better
to trim the shields just as if you were going to install
a crimp on connector. Then wrap the exposed shield with
a piece of braid and solder it. This is a modification
of the technique shown in:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
For wires with single shields, try the technique shown here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
This might even work with double shielded wire like RG-400,
I've not tried it.
In any case, I think you'll be more pleased with the outcome
if you don't un-braid the strands. Doing that tends to produce
a finished termination that looks like it's having a bad
hair day.
Bob
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: trick for combing out shield? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 2/2/04 10:22:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
> Is there any slick trick for combing out braided shielding more easily?
> Case in point, RG-400 with its double layer of shielding.
>
I use a crochet hook. It has a small very smooth hook that works great and
does not damage the shield wires if done gently. You can purchase at your local
fabric store.
Dale Ensing
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dynon EMI (different scenario) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Hmmm, funny this should pop up right now in the OBAM aircraft
community . . . Just yesterday, I was invited to work a project
involving players I won't name but suffice it to say that there
are some aspects of the current crop of flat panel displays that
are needing closer examination.
In some cases, the antagonist flight instrument does meed
DO-160 emissions requirements but the frequencies of interest
are so stable and coherent as to offer some problems (albeit
small ones) to radio receivers on the airplane. Other aspects
of radiation discovered exceed DO-160 requirements and are
broad band noises that degrade performance of other systems.
Be advised that this problem is not unique to the low-dollar
players. If I learn something of this situation that can be
shared in terms of the simple-ideas, I'll share it with the
List.
With respect to the anecdotes cited below: The builder might
get acceptable if not completely quiet performance from the
hand-held by connecting it to an external antenna remote as
practical from the cockpit.
It's true that older radios were NOT explored for their
vulnerabilities to broad band noises typical of microprocessor
based electronics. If you have one of those battery powered
short wave receivers, try exploring the environment around
your desktop or laptop computer over the short wave frequencies.
This is why computers have the sticker on them that states
while they're qualified under FCC Part 15 rules for total
emissions, they MIGHT still interfere with other radio
based systems. In these cases, it is incumbent upon the
operator of the antagonist to modify the situation to
favor the victim.
It's unfortunate that many developmental tasks are not
fully understood until AFTER a product hits the marketplace.
The designers and testers cannot anticipate EVERY installation
variable. It's seldom reflects on the ability or integrity
of the designers, only in the discovery of NEW questions
not asked and answered before the product hit the field.
Bob . . .
---------- Original Message -----------------------------
At 10:09 PM 2/2/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
><dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>This interesting thread on the RV-list probaly has a place on the
>Aeroelectric list, also, in case some players aren't monitoring both.
>
>David
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kevin Behrent" <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Dynon EMI (different scenario)
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent
><kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
> >
> > "Paul Boyce, Ph.D." wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Boyce, Ph.D."
><matronicspost@csg-i.com>
> > >
> > > There's a couple of very disappointing things about this situation:
> > >
> > > 1) in a total electric failure emergency, my backup handheld radio will
>most
> > > likely be rendered useless.
> > >
> > > 2) in an otherwise excellent product, those engineering folks at Dynon
>have
> > > completely dropped the ball in not doing thorough Quality Control checks
>on
> > > EMI. Isn't it obvious that in a highly electrified environment such as
>an
> > > airplane cockpit, one MUST check for EMI? Is that too much to ask?
> > >
> > > I will be giving them a call tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> >
> > One possible reason why some people are having "noticeable" EMI
>interference
> > and others don't is the quaility and vintage of radio(s) that they have
> > installed.
> >
> > I say this because I have experienced this when I had a complete panel
>upgrade
> > on my Mooney where a complete Garmin stack was put in, but I retained my
>old,
> > trusty, Narco Mark 12D+/DME. The GNS430 and the Narco constantly
>interfered with
> > each other and both units were sent back to the respective factory on
>multiple
> > occassions. What was finally determined, by both manufactures, was noise
> > filtering capability on both units. The 430 does a pretty good in pre/post
> > filtering so that the large LCD panel would not interfere with "newer"
>avionics.
> > The Narco, on the other hand, has little pre filtering, thus is very
>reactive to
> > the lcd screen. It also emits it's own share of emi that the 430 tries to
> > handle, but fails when conditions are right. The solution, however
>exceptable
> > but not perfect, was shielding everything, and doing some rework on the
>radio
> > trays to help shield.
> >
> > The lesson I learned was not to mix new new with old. For what it cost to
> > minimize the problem, I could have purchased a second 430.
> >
> > We had the President of Dynon speak at our January EAA monthly meeting and
>I can
> > say that he and his engineers are very bright people and they will find a
>way to
> > reduce or eliminate the problem. On the other hand, LCD screens will
>always
> > emit a certain level of radiation that older generation of radios do not
> > filter. As glass panels evolve, so does radio filtering. However, don't
>expect
> > that your radio(s) are properly filtered to guard againt these emissions.
> >
> > It would be interesting to study the type of avionics being used by both
>groups
> > and see if there are any similarities.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: trick for combing out shield? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Bob,
I would have much preferred to do that. That's what I usually do on
non-coax shielded wire. But a while back I read somewhere (this list, I
believe) that you shouldn't use heat shrink on coax (i.e. RG-58) because the
center conductor insulator could melt. I assumed that the heat generated by
soldering would at least equal if not exceed that of a heat gun.
Is soldering RG-400 really a kosher thing to do? I assume so, since you
wouldn't have mentioned it, but I just want to confirm.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: trick for combing out shield?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 06:28 AM 2/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 2/2/2004 10:22:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >dan@rvproject.com writes:
> >Is there any slick trick for combing out braided shielding more easily?
> >Case in point, RG-400 with its double layer of shielding.
>
> Why comb it out? If you want to make connections to
> double shields like RG-400 coax, it's probably better
> to trim the shields just as if you were going to install
> a crimp on connector. Then wrap the exposed shield with
> a piece of braid and solder it. This is a modification
> of the technique shown in:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
>
> For wires with single shields, try the technique shown here:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
>
> This might even work with double shielded wire like RG-400,
> I've not tried it.
>
> In any case, I think you'll be more pleased with the outcome
> if you don't un-braid the strands. Doing that tends to produce
> a finished termination that looks like it's having a bad
> hair day.
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: trick for combing out shield? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I tried soldering the shielding pigtail on a Cessna and it shorted out the
pulses to ground even though my meter said it wasn't grounded. Became
impossible to start.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter soon to be Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: trick for combing out shield?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Bob,
>
> I would have much preferred to do that. That's what I usually do on
> non-coax shielded wire. But a while back I read somewhere (this list, I
> believe) that you shouldn't use heat shrink on coax (i.e. RG-58) because
the
> center conductor insulator could melt. I assumed that the heat generated
by
> soldering would at least equal if not exceed that of a heat gun.
>
> Is soldering RG-400 really a kosher thing to do? I assume so, since you
> wouldn't have mentioned it, but I just want to confirm.
>
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: trick for combing out shield?
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 06:28 AM 2/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
> > >
> > >In a message dated 2/2/2004 10:22:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > >dan@rvproject.com writes:
> > >Is there any slick trick for combing out braided shielding more easily?
> > >Case in point, RG-400 with its double layer of shielding.
> >
> > Why comb it out? If you want to make connections to
> > double shields like RG-400 coax, it's probably better
> > to trim the shields just as if you were going to install
> > a crimp on connector. Then wrap the exposed shield with
> > a piece of braid and solder it. This is a modification
> > of the technique shown in:
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
> >
> > For wires with single shields, try the technique shown here:
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
> >
> > This might even work with double shielded wire like RG-400,
> > I've not tried it.
> >
> > In any case, I think you'll be more pleased with the outcome
> > if you don't un-braid the strands. Doing that tends to produce
> > a finished termination that looks like it's having a bad
> > hair day.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
I'm looking for a recommendation for a high quality mini switch ( one
fourth inch throat size) to select between the shunt in my alternator
line and one in the battery lead, before it enters the volt amp meter.
Joel Harding GRT EFIS on the way
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: trick for combing out shield? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:09 AM 2/3/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Bob,
>
>I would have much preferred to do that. That's what I usually do on
>non-coax shielded wire. But a while back I read somewhere (this list, I
>believe) that you shouldn't use heat shrink on coax (i.e. RG-58) because the
>center conductor insulator could melt. I assumed that the heat generated by
>soldering would at least equal if not exceed that of a heat gun.
>
>Is soldering RG-400 really a kosher thing to do? I assume so, since you
>wouldn't have mentioned it, but I just want to confirm.
Sure . . . we don't want to solder to RG-58 because it's made
of peanut-butter and bubble-gum . . . typical of materials
around in 1945 when that stuff was designed.
RG-400 is quite solder friendly. I used heat-gun installed
solder sleeves on it all the time.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RE: OV protection for internally |
regulated alternators
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
regulated alternators
At 09:53 PM 2/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Livingston"
><livingjw@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob,
>
> If I have a progressive battery/alternator switch can I still get into
>trouble if I quickly slam it totally off instead of taking the alternator
>off line, pause then turn off the battery? I can see how this might happen
>during an incident, if, for instance, one smelled smoke in the cockpit. Is
>this one senerio of concern?
No, do this with the engine off. Where folks are getting
into trouble is with unnecessary operation of the alternator
switch while the engine is running. There are lots of
controls on an airplane that are operated during narrowly
restricted stages of flight. You don't lower flaps at 175 kts,
You don't pull the mixture to cutoff at cruise, you don't
select OFF on the fuel selector while in flight, etc. etc.
In all my years of flying, I've never had a situation where
I've felt a need to turn either a battery or alternator switch
off after the engine is running except to shut the airplane down
at the end of a flight.
The problem with alternator vulnerability manifests itself
only because folks operated switches in a manner inconsistent
with a trouble free flight. If someone writes to say, "I
lowered my flaps a cruise and they broke off the airplane",
nobody would be surprised at the result, only wonderment at why
anyone believed it was a useful thing to do. Same thing
with a potentially vulnerable, self-regulated alternator.
If you do smell smoke in the cockpit, then concern for the
alternator's regulator is a secondary issue. That's why
absolute control over the alternator's connection to the
system is offered with the Z-24 configuration.
Operate the system just like you've operated in C-172 for
the last 40+ years and vulnerability to battery-dump
damage is never going to be a problem.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: My Jabiru J400 made test flights, |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:01 PM 2/3/2004 +1100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott, Ian"
><ian_scott@commander.com>
>
>Last Sunday the my Jabiru J400 did its first test flight and a subsequent
>flight of a few hours, all was good, and all the smoke stayed in the wires.
>Elevated CHT due to the new engine, all the rest good and nearly 2000Fpm
>climb, man this is a rocket.
Chalk up another one for the OBAM aircraft industry . . .
the only segment of GA that is growing both in numbers
and technological stature.
Hat's off to brother Ian!
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:17 PM 2/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello Bob,
>
>Thanks for your prompt reply. To first answer your question. Yes, I was
>going to use it on our Model 5 Safari Kitfox that is about 70% complete. I
>too think that it is Kapton wire, but I am not sure. I do not have a spec.
>sheet on it either.
>
>I am nearly four years retired from Sikorsky Aircraft and I suspect that is
>where I obtained the wire. I did a quick check on the internet against this
>wire and the only thing that comes up is a chafing issue on a Sikorsky
>Blackhawk. I have about 1400 feet of 20awg.
If it's Kapton, I don't think I'd use it in your airplane.
I was advised AGAINST Kapton 20 years ago when I was working
the Gates-Piaggio project at Lear . . . seems the Navy was
already having heartburn with that stuff on carrier based
airplanes. Why it has persisted for all these years in
commercial ships is beyond my understanding.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RE: OV protection for internally regulated alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Clay R <clayr_55@yahoo.com>
How many people out there were taught in the C-172
that you could switch the alternator off and back on
to test it during the runup? (watch the Ammeter jump
back and forth)
I was.
I guess the question is "how long does it take" to
burn up the internal regulator if the B-lead is
disconnected? A second? 10 seconds?
If accidently flipping a switch on my airplane is
going to cause a component to instantly break, I'm
going to put a big guard on it or change the design.
--Clay
(really sorry to keep flogging this horse)
--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>,
UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L.
> Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> regulated
> alternators
>
>
> In all my years of flying, I've never had a
> situation where
> I've felt a need to turn either a battery or
> alternator switch
> off after the engine is running except to shut
> the airplane down
> at the end of a flight.
(snip)
> > Operate the system just like you've operated
in
> C-172 for
> the last 40+ years and vulnerability to
> battery-dump
> damage is never going to be a problem.
>
> Bob . . .
__________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - LIGHTED TOGGLE SWITCHES |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Folks,
Knowing that B&C stock Carling switches, I asked if they would consider
stocking some of the LT series lighted toggle switches. Below is the reply
from B&C.
Regards, David Francis, VH-ZEE, Canberra, Australia
David,
I can get the LT series switches on a special order. Now as far as stocking
them, that will take me a few months, I have got other items that I am
working on at this time, but I will keep the LT switches in consideration.
Thanks,
Todd Koerner
B&C Specialty Products
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: OV protection for internally regulated alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:38 PM 2/3/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Clay R <clayr_55@yahoo.com>
>
>How many people out there were taught in the C-172
>that you could switch the alternator off and back on
>to test it during the runup? (watch the Ammeter jump
>back and forth)
>
>I was.
Why would you do this in an OBAM machine? If you
have ACTIVE notification of low voltage (i.e. low
voltage warning light) and the light goes out
when the engine starts, what's all this
flippy-flippy stuff about?
Someone may have taught you to do that but if the
ammeter was indicating anywhere to the right of
zero, there was nothing more to be learned by
operating the alternator switch. If you closed
the master switch and the panel lights up, then
that too is pretty good evidence that the battery
contactor is working.
I helped craft the 1960's versions of POH
instructions for the SE Cessnas . . . don't know
what they've put in there since I left but I'd be
really surprised if this activity was a factory
recommended pre-flight procedure.
>I guess the question is "how long does it take" to
>burn up the internal regulator if the B-lead is
>disconnected? A second? 10 seconds?
10 MILLISECONDS . . .
>If accidently flipping a switch on my airplane is
>going to cause a component to instantly break, I'm
>going to put a big guard on it or change the design.
You've already changed the design by NOT owning
a C-172. Your not prohibited from doing a lot
of things differently that what you were taught
by folks who understand less about your airplane
than you do.
If there's any possibility of operating a
switch by accident, perhaps there's something
that can be done with ergonomics of layout
to eliminate it.
If you have layouts similar to
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/Switches.pdf
Which switch would you be reaching for when
you accidently got the DC PWR MASTER instead?
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: shunt switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:44 PM 2/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
>
>
>I'm looking for a recommendation for a high quality mini switch ( one
>fourth inch throat size) to select between the shunt in my alternator
>line and one in the battery lead, before it enters the volt amp meter.
Are you running cranking currents through the battery shunt?
My personal choice of switches for ammeter shunts would be the
C&K 7201SYZQE from Digikey and others. See:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=212792&Row=201354&Site=US
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: shunt switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Hersha" <shersha@fuse.net>
Bob,
I don't if there is an ammeter shunt on my bus system or not, but there
isn't any cranking amps going through the bus system..I have the EXP bus
system. Maybe there is a ground problem with it. I tried a ferrite bead on
my antenna leads today and they didn't help.
Scott Hersha
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: shunt switch
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 12:44 PM 2/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding
<cajole76@ispwest.com>
> >
> >
> >I'm looking for a recommendation for a high quality mini switch ( one
> >fourth inch throat size) to select between the shunt in my alternator
> >line and one in the battery lead, before it enters the volt amp meter.
>
> Are you running cranking currents through the battery shunt?
>
> My personal choice of switches for ammeter shunts would be the
> C&K 7201SYZQE from Digikey and others. See:
>
>
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=212792&Row=2013
54&Site=US
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Hersha" <shersha@fuse.net>
I'm reading chapter 16 in the 'Connection' and will hopefullly find a problem to
fix. I'm also on the list now. The ferrite torroid did not help. Still looking.
Scott Hersha
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Dave,
Give me more details on this. Are these panels some sort of fiber optic plastic,
with a coating? It appears that the coating is removed by engraving. Do I assume
correctly, that the text areas will emit light? This would be VERY nice.
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
>
>Another option if you guys are looking for the ultimate in "cool" is to
>forget about lighted switches and go for a backlit switch panel,
>professionally manufactured from your drawings by a company that does
>flight simulator cockpits. Check out the stuff you can get at
>www.AircraftSimulators.com
>
>I just had 2 switch panels made up that you can see at
>http://www.myglasscockpit.com/SwitchPanelLeft.jpg
>and
>http://www.myglasscockpit.com/SwitchPanelCenter.jpg
>
>They can either supply the switches or supply the bare acrylic panel and
>you provide your own switches.
>
>Dave Morris
>
>
>At 07:10 AM 1/28/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>Charlie,
>>
>>These look totally cool. I have not given this a lot of
>>thought, but how would you used the colors in your airplane?
>>I can see a lot of possibilities that could reduce workload
>>and increase safety.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>> >http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
>> >
>> >Carling is the manufacturer of the switches sold by B&C Specialties. The
>> LT series comes available with 5 different lighting colors and comes in a
>> wide variety of switch styles. They have switches rated up to 15 amps as
>> well. They are also available with 1/4" fast on terminals (as recommended by
--
>>
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 Wings
>>
>>
>
>Dave Morris
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Quick connects |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
These look interesting. What sort of crimping tool is needed for these? Is it a
proprietary tool? Or is the tool based on an existing standard?
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
>
>I bought a the Hirose mini circular connector from Digikey. They are very
>small, easy to attach, locking, not real expensive, and sealed. I haven't
>installed it yet but it looks perfect for the elevator trim to 5 wire Ray Allen
>cable.
>
>There is a photo at the following site.
>
>http://www.hirose.com/
>
><Does anyone have a suggestion for a simple quick connection for five or more
>wires. This is for an electric trim tab servo and I would like to easily
>remove for repair.>
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:59 PM 2/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Hersha" <shersha@fuse.net>
>
>I'm reading chapter 16 in the 'Connection' and will hopefullly find a
>problem to fix. I'm also on the list now. The ferrite torroid did not
>help. Still looking.
>Scott Hersha
What experiments have you conducted to deduce propagation
mode for the noise?
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RE: OV protection for internally regulated alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
That battery dump damage thing... is this only related
with the alternators from Vans, or any automotive
alternators (including the Nippodensos found in
japanese cars)?
Is this a certainty that it will fail each time, or is
it once in a lifetime that this will happen?
Thanks!
Michel
--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>,
> No, do this with the engine off. Where folks
> are getting
> into trouble is with unnecessary operation of
> the alternator
> switch while the engine is running. There are
> lots of....
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 22
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| Subject: | Converting a Denso Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hi There <rv90619@yahoo.com>
I have a couple of Denso Alternators that I want to convert to nonregulated alternators.
I've seen a few different sites that discribe how to do this, but not
one that has the same type of regulator that are on my alternators. Both alternators
I have have a plastic regulator/plug housing. There are cooling The
regulator bolts to the diodes and brushes. I'm sure someone has done one of
these alternators, I was at the junk yard today and many of the import cars
used an alternator of this disign. I have some photos if that helps.
Thanks for any help.
Cameron
---------------------------------
Message 23
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| Subject: | SD-8 and meltdowns |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott" <tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
Bob,
I just want to add my name to the list of those who are waiting to order an
SD-8 until after the regulator problem is successfully addressed.
Regards,
Troy Scott
tscott1217@bellsouth.net
Do Not Archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Quick connects |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Do you have a digikey part number for this? I tried looking on Digikey
and couldn't find the one like the picture.
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
N67BT@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
>
>I bought a the Hirose mini circular connector from Digikey. They are very
>small, easy to attach, locking, not real expensive, and sealed. I haven't
>installed it yet but it looks perfect for the elevator trim to 5 wire Ray Allen
>cable.
>
>There is a photo at the following site.
>
>http://www.hirose.com/
>
><Does anyone have a suggestion for a simple quick connection for five or more
>wires. This is for an electric trim tab servo and I would like to easily
>remove for repair.>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Hersha" <shersha@fuse.net>
I haven't tried any experiments yet except using a ferrite toroid on the
antenna lead. No help. After reading chapter 16, I think I potentially have
several areas for concern. My wires are probably not bundled properly to
keep certain wires separated. My strobe power lead shield is grounded at the
power supply only not the strobe lamp also. I'm going to build 3
capacitor/filters you describe, one for the intercom power, and one each for
the two strobe power supplys. I'm also going to try connecting my com radio
to a 'clean' power source..separate battery. I'll disconnect the radio
antenna first to see if the noise is coming through it or the bus. All these
'experiments' will take some time, but if none of these work, I'll get back
to you....Thanks, Scott Hersha
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Noise
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 08:59 PM 2/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Hersha"
<shersha@fuse.net>
> >
> >I'm reading chapter 16 in the 'Connection' and will hopefullly find a
> >problem to fix. I'm also on the list now. The ferrite torroid did not
> >help. Still looking.
> >Scott Hersha
>
> What experiments have you conducted to deduce propagation
> mode for the noise?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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