Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:30 AM - Re: Manual master switch (n3eu@comcast.net)
2. 05:52 AM - Battery > Ebus protection. (Glenn Rainey)
3. 06:23 AM - Re: Manual Master Switch (Shaun Simpkins)
4. 06:32 AM - Re: Battery > Ebus protection. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:37 AM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:47 AM - Master Solenoid location (F1Rocket)
7. 07:25 AM - Re: Master Solenoid location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:37 AM - Re: Re: Manual Master Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:57 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 03/08/04 (Ted Lemen)
10. 09:03 AM - soldering batteries (Ron Lee)
11. 10:05 AM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration ('Scott Richardson')
12. 11:01 AM - Re: soldering batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 11:05 AM - Re: soldering batteries (Chad Robinson)
14. 11:30 AM - Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (James E. Clark)
15. 11:50 AM - Re: soldering batteries (Scott Bilinski)
16. 12:21 PM - Frequently Asked Questions Compilation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 12:27 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 12:35 PM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 01:25 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (James E. Clark)
20. 02:36 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 02:54 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (Dale Martin)
22. 03:18 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (Matt Prather)
23. 03:20 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (Matt Prather)
24. 03:32 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (James E. Clark)
25. 03:40 PM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration (GMC)
26. 04:46 PM - Control Stick Switch Override (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
27. 04:53 PM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration ('Scott Richardson')
28. 05:07 PM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration (Charlie Kuss)
29. 05:29 PM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration (GMC)
30. 06:21 PM - Relay's for warning lights (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
31. 06:52 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
32. 07:09 PM - Columbia 350 electrical system (Dan O'Brien)
33. 07:27 PM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
34. 07:39 PM - Re: Relay's for warning lights (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
35. 08:35 PM - Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 (Dale Martin)
36. 08:58 PM - Re: Frequently Asked Questions Compilation (Mickey Coggins)
37. 09:39 PM - Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration ('Scott Richardson')
38. 10:07 PM - Adhesives and ground contact (Mike Holland)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Manual master switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
Ned Thomas wrote:
> How about a latching solenoid that requires no electrical holding power:
>
> http://www.hotronicsproducts.com/circuit.htm
If starting current will be drawn through this relay, then check its internal resistance.
The specs for the above suggest slower cranking will result. I tried
a competing product on a Rotax 914 (i.e., small starter) and the drop was
still excessive, despite spec sheet hinting it wouldn't be. Another item tossed
in my "Seemingly Bright Ideas" storage box.
Fred F.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Battery > Ebus protection. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Glenn Rainey <nimbusaviation@yahoo.com>
I am in a dilemma regarding the sourcing of power for
my Essential-bus, not having a battery bus in my
Long-EZ, and in the light of discussions regarding
protection of always-hot wiring. So we could have a
breaker or fuse or current limiter near the
nose-mounted battery, BUT we also need a disconnect up
there. It's not going to be a contactor, so it will
have to be a _remotely operable_ switch, (or breaker)
right? This feeds me into the Manual Master Switch
debate which I remember also posting some time ago,
but this time it's the Ebus.
The basic issue here is current protection AND ALSO
keeping voltage off the wiring shortly before the
glass hits the dirt. (My original thought experiment,
not the point of this posting, was to introduce a
G-activated disconnect into the equation......)
Good grief, do I need a toe-activated switch for my
Ebus ???!
Any thoughts?
Glenn Rainey
Scotland
Long-EZ project
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns@hevanet.com>
This product looks well made, but...
I considered a latching relay, too, but didn't like the fact that it doesn't
fail safely. If something fails in the actuation circuitry, the relay doesn't
open the circuit it's controlling - it stays in whatever state it was in.
Considering that there's no alternative means of power shutoff for the
battery contactor, this isn't good in an aircraft. Poorly designed mechanical
latching relays
can also be actuated by vibration - of which there's a lot of in an airplane.
In a car, you can at least pull over and disconnect the battery cables.
A safer alternative is the cii technologies EV-200
http://www.ciitech.com/doc_generator.asp?doc_id1280
available through several electronic distributors accessible via
the ciitech website. This contactor dissipates 1/10 the power of a
conventional contactor (100mA when holding), is quite small, and always
opens the controlled circuit if actuator power fails - i.e., it fails safely.
It doesn't dissipate zero power, but very close.
SS
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Battery > Ebus protection. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:51 AM 3/9/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Glenn Rainey
><nimbusaviation@yahoo.com>
>
>I am in a dilemma regarding the sourcing of power for
>my Essential-bus, not having a battery bus in my
>Long-EZ, and in the light of discussions regarding
>protection of always-hot wiring. So we could have a
>breaker or fuse or current limiter near the
>nose-mounted battery, BUT we also need a disconnect up
>there. It's not going to be a contactor,
Why not a contactor?
> so it will
>have to be a _remotely operable_ switch, (or breaker)
>right? This feeds me into the Manual Master Switch
>debate which I remember also posting some time ago,
>but this time it's the Ebus.
>The basic issue here is current protection AND ALSO
>keeping voltage off the wiring shortly before the
>glass hits the dirt. (My original thought experiment,
>not the point of this posting, was to introduce a
>G-activated disconnect into the equation......)
>
>Good grief, do I need a toe-activated switch for my
>Ebus ???!
No. First, since you have a plastic airplane, issues
involving faults to ground during a crash are
very much reduced. The rule of thumb suggested by
FAA on always hot feeds from battery is to limit
them to 5A. How much current does your e-bus
draw? Given that FAA will bless a 5A breaker,
you could probably get equivalent fault protection
with the much faster 7A fuse. If your e-bus will
run through a 7A fuse, just install an in-line
fuse holder at the battery to feed the e-bus.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:11 AM 3/8/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Scott Richardson'"
><scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm wiring up my Lancair 235 using Z-13 with the battery in the rear of
>the aircraft (behind the passenger seat). I had some questions:
>
>1. The diagram shows the main fusebox being connected to the output
>side of the battery connector. I'm assuming that I could connect it
>either there or at the starter contactor end, correct? (This just saves
>another run of #4 cable to the rear of the aircraft). Would there be
>any problem of taking that feed somewhere in the middle of the run of #2
>cable? - say near where it passes the instrument panel?
Correct.
>2. Is there any problem using a brass bolt to pass the + side current
>through the firewall? I would use a phenolic ring around the bolt to
>isolate the (grounded) firewall stainless from the bolt.
Are you planning to test the insulator for effects on
firewall integrity? There are a number of technologies
that have been tested. The one we use at RAC looks like
this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
>3. Is it better to have the ANL on the forward or rear side of the
>firewall?
You need to place it as close as practical to the energy
source that's going to blow it. In this case, the battery.
Where is the starter contactor mounted. If on the firewall
where most folks put them, the ANL would mount right beside
it.
> Does the ANL smoke at all when it "blows"?
No.
>4. I'm about to order some #2 welding cable but am trying to plan my
>runs in the meantime. Can someone give me an idea of how flexible it is
>- i.e. what's typical for a minumum bend radius?
SUPER flexible. No practical limit on bend radius.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Master Solenoid location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "F1Rocket" <f1rocket@telus.net>
Hi all,
The other day I was looking in an OBAM aircraft and he had the batter located in
the back, with the master solenoid located on the firewall. Everything I read
indicates that this isn't the correct way to do it, but it would sure make
things easy for me.
Any opinions or comments?
Jeff
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Master Solenoid location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:47 AM 3/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "F1Rocket" <f1rocket@telus.net>
>
>Hi all,
>
>The other day I was looking in an OBAM aircraft and he had the batter
>located in the back, with the master solenoid located on the
>firewall. Everything I read indicates that this isn't the correct way to
>do it, but it would sure make things easy for me.
>Any opinions or comments?
As was the case with the aircraft you observed, the
OBAM aircraft builder can put things together any
way he/she sees fit. But for the vast majority of
OBAM and certified ships, the battery master contactor
goes right next to the battery.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:28 AM 3/9/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns@hevanet.com>
>
>This product looks well made, but...
>I considered a latching relay, too, but didn't like the fact that it doesn't
>fail safely. If something fails in the actuation circuitry, the relay doesn't
>open the circuit it's controlling - it stays in whatever state it was in.
Good eye!
>Considering that there's no alternative means of power shutoff for the
>battery contactor, this isn't good in an aircraft. Poorly designed
>mechanical latching relays
>can also be actuated by vibration - of which there's a lot of in an airplane.
>In a car, you can at least pull over and disconnect the battery cables.
>
>A safer alternative is the cii technologies EV-200
> http://www.ciitech.com/doc_generator.asp?doc_id1280
>available through several electronic distributors accessible via
>the ciitech website. This contactor dissipates 1/10 the power of a
>conventional contactor (100mA when holding), is quite small, and always
>opens the controlled circuit if actuator power fails - i.e., it fails safely.
>
>It doesn't dissipate zero power, but very close.
First, why the push for low power dissipation in a battery contactor?
IF your alternator has limited generating ability where the
contactor uses up 6% of the output (like with an 18A rotax machine)
or 12% of output (like with an SD-8), and assuming further that
your load analysis says you'd like to reserve that 0.8A for more
useful purposes, then the low power contactor quest is reasonable
and useful. There are LOTS of aerobatic aircraft flying with
SD-8 alternators as primary source of energy and they still
have a battery master contactor. These are day-vfr machines
with starter, nav-com and transponders in them. The load
analysis says tossing off 0.8A to keep the battery on line
is no big deal.
However, if you have a 40A or larger alternator, then while
the alternator is functioning, you have power to burn. When the
alternator is NOT functioning, you have a means for taking
the contactor out of the load analysis by means of the e-bus
alternate feed path.
This is why the el-cheapo Stancore product has been offered as
the contactor-of-choice in AEC and ultimately B&C catalogs.
It's not the most efficient nor is it the most robust of
products . . . but given that we're designing well considered
failure tolerant systems, the use of such contactors seems
to be a good value.
I'm not discouraging exploration of other products that
mitigate issues driven by load analysis and aircraft mission.
I'm concerned that this low power contactor discussion might
be mis-interpreted as the latest-and-greatest way to go
for all designs.
As I've written before, the load analysis is the first
document you need to complete before you start drilling holes
or buying parts. This study of proposed system performance
will show whether or not it's necessary or even useful to
drive up the cost of your system with whippy new hardware.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 03/08/04 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ted Lemen" <tedlem@ecentral.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "AeroElectric-List Digest Server"
<aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 03/08/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
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> Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can be also be found in either
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> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
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http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list/Digest.AeroElectric-List.2
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004-03-08.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 03/08/04: 24
>
> >
> Time: 08:30:28 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: personal ELT
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:25 PM 3/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard McCraw"
<rmccraw@wcvt.com>
> >
> >Re when to change out flashlight batteries in ELTs: As I think about it,
you
> >may well be right about changing out the batteries before the expiration,
> >maybe at the halfway point or some such. For the record, I'll check with
my
> >A&P tomorrow and post the info.
> >
> >Sorry for any misinformation: I'll try to straighten it out.
> >
> >Rick McCraw
>
> If they are alkaline batteries, you can (from an engineering
> perspective) leave them in place until their "sell by" dates
> on the battery. Alkalines are extremely long lived. From
> the bureaucratic perspective, there may be something different.
> If its a certified device, there should be instructions for
> maintaining air worthy status which would state the manufacturer's
> FAA approved routine for battery maintenance.
>
> Bob . . .
My elt says to replace the battery back every other year. It is made up of
some AA batteries potted together. I usually make my own.>
>
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | soldering batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Lee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
Does anyone know if it is detrimental(to the battery) in any way to solder a small
wire to the ends of a alkaline battery?
Message 11
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| Subject: | Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Scott Richardson'" <scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
Thanks Bob. I've included some follow-up comments below:
>
> >2. Is there any problem using a brass bolt to pass the +
> side current
> >through the firewall? I would use a phenolic ring around
> the bolt to
> >isolate the (grounded) firewall stainless from the bolt.
>
> Are you planning to test the insulator for effects on
> firewall integrity? There are a number of technologies
> that have been tested. The one we use at RAC looks like
> this:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/fire
> wall.html
>
I've seen this and the commercially available versions at
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html My issue is simply one of
space. The stainless fitting & fireseal assembly sticks out from the
firewall a good ways and I have very little space between the firewall
and the rear engine components. By using an insulated bolt assembly to
transfer the hot side through the firewall I'm trying to effectively
build a 90 degree turn in the fat wire that is running from the battery
to my firewall mounted starter. This would also give me a good
connection point for the alternator feed on the front side of the
firewall and for the main fuseblock feed on the rear side of the
firewall.
I also hear your point about the fire resistance of the insulator
material. I suppose one could manufacture a stainless cover over the
bolt and the exiting wires, but that may be more trouble than it's
worth. It may just be easier to go to Home Depot and see if I can find
the stainless towelbars that others have used so that I can get my
right-angle turn in a smaller space.
Thanks again,
Scott
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: soldering batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:02 AM 3/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Lee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
>
>Does anyone know if it is detrimental(to the battery) in any way to solder
>a small wire to the ends of a alkaline battery?
Sure. Been doing it for decades. Just cause it takes 400F+ temps to
make a solder joint doesn't mean that you have to heat everything
you solder to up to 400F+
I've had some frustrating and EXPENSIVE experiences with
vibration and corrosion induced battery disconnects when
cells are used in classic spring-loaded battery holders.
When the power absolutely needs to be there, it's difficult
to beat SOLDERED alkaline cells. See the following pix
I just shot at the workbench:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Solder_1.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Solder_2.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Solder_3.jpg
The secret is getting surface of battery prepared with
file or edge of cut-off wheel on Dremel Moto-Tool. Use
hot iron (600F+) and good solder (63/37 Kester Resin
44 or equal). Following technique suggested in pictures
above, total time that an iron touches the cell is under
3 seconds . . . it barely warms up the cell.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: soldering batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
Ron Lee wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Lee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
>
> Does anyone know if it is detrimental(to the battery) in any way to solder
> a small wire to the ends of a alkaline battery?
Don't hang around with the soldering iron, because excessive heat (the
warnings DO tell you not to put them in a fire...) can rupture the casing and
case the electrolyte to leak out. It's caustic so you don't want this.
Technically speaking, heat can also increase the speed of the chemical
reaction inside the battery (that's why some people keep them in the fridge
for long-term storage) but for the duration you're going to be soldering it's
irrelevant.
There's enough metal in a battery to act as a decent heat sink for this and if
you get on and off quickly the battery will never know. I've seen soldered
pigtails on AA cells in a number of devices, so you wouldn't be the first
person to try. The obvious statements about not being able to replace the
battery etc. apply, but I won't patronize you with those; I expect you have a
reason for asking.
Two comments, though. The plating on the caps of most batteries is designed to
resist corrosion and solder doesn't always stick to it very well. You'd be
well advised to lightly scuff each end with some 220-grit sandpaper before
doing this. Solder it immediately afterward, so the terminal can't corrode.
Also, since you aren't exactly attaching to an eye connector you aren't going
to get any mechanical strength from the joint, so don't allow it to carry any
strain. A good way to deal with this is to run the wires back along the length
of the battery and tape them down there.
Regards,
Chad
Message 14
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| Subject: | Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Bob,
I am wiring my RV6A per Z14j, using B&C's alternators and Odyssey PC680
batteries. I notice that one of the batteries is connected to the engine
block and the other to the firewall. I assume that it does not matter which
battery is connected where.
Question #1: What is the rationale for *not* connecting BOTH battery grounds
to the engine block *and* the firewall?
Question #2: Might there be any damage to either battery or alternator if
the crossfeed is left on *and* the regulation is slightly different for each
battery/alternator?
Question #3: Is the full up position on the master switches a "test" postion
for the LR-3?
Per usual, thanks!
James
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: soldering batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
You really need to have a high quality soldering iron to do this. One that
will heat up the area quick get the soldering done and get out. I tried
soldering a wire to a battery with a cheap radio shack iron and ruined the
battery. Now I used the Metcal soldering irons (at work) which are about
500 bucks apiece. They heat up the soldering iron tip in just a few seconds
and also heat up what ever your soldering in just aobut the same amount of
time.
At 02:05 PM 3/9/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson
><crobinson@rfgonline.com>
>
>Ron Lee wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Lee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
>>
>> Does anyone know if it is detrimental(to the battery) in any way to solder
>> a small wire to the ends of a alkaline battery?
>
>Don't hang around with the soldering iron, because excessive heat (the
>warnings DO tell you not to put them in a fire...) can rupture the casing and
>case the electrolyte to leak out. It's caustic so you don't want this.
>Technically speaking, heat can also increase the speed of the chemical
>reaction inside the battery (that's why some people keep them in the fridge
>for long-term storage) but for the duration you're going to be soldering it's
>irrelevant.
>
>There's enough metal in a battery to act as a decent heat sink for this
and if
>you get on and off quickly the battery will never know. I've seen soldered
>pigtails on AA cells in a number of devices, so you wouldn't be the first
>person to try. The obvious statements about not being able to replace the
>battery etc. apply, but I won't patronize you with those; I expect you have a
>reason for asking.
>
>Two comments, though. The plating on the caps of most batteries is
designed to
>resist corrosion and solder doesn't always stick to it very well. You'd be
>well advised to lightly scuff each end with some 220-grit sandpaper before
>doing this. Solder it immediately afterward, so the terminal can't corrode.
>Also, since you aren't exactly attaching to an eye connector you aren't going
>to get any mechanical strength from the joint, so don't allow it to carry any
>strain. A good way to deal with this is to run the wires back along the
length
>of the battery and tape them down there.
>
>Regards,
>Chad
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 16
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| Subject: | Frequently Asked Questions Compilation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
List reader L. Holt has sent me a copy of his efforts to compile
a list of frequently asked questions from the Matronics archives
for the AeroElectric-List. This was a really BIG effort on his
part. I'm pleased that he has offered to share the product of
his efforts. I've posted the document at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List/AeroElectric-List_FAQ.pdf
This is a BIG document . . . about 310 pages. You can use
the table of contents he crafted at the beginning to find where
paragraphs on a major topic have been gathered together -OR-
you can use the word search feature in Acrobat Reader to find
words and phrases in the total work.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:27 PM 3/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
><james@nextupventures.com>
>
>Bob,
>
>I am wiring my RV6A per Z14j, using B&C's alternators and Odyssey PC680
>batteries. I notice that one of the batteries is connected to the engine
>block and the other to the firewall. I assume that it does not matter which
>battery is connected where.
>
>Question #1: What is the rationale for *not* connecting BOTH battery grounds
>to the engine block *and* the firewall?
You may have an older revision to Z-14. Download
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
where you'll find that both batteries connect to firewall
ground . . .
>Question #2: Might there be any damage to either battery or alternator if
>the crossfeed is left on *and* the regulation is slightly different for each
>battery/alternator?
No. One alternator may try to pick up all the loads while
the other relaxes . . . but when the load-hog's capacity
is all used up, the bus voltage will sag and the other
alternator will pick up the difference.
>Question #3: Is the full up position on the master switches a "test" postion
>for the LR-3?
????? Not sure I understand. The master switches are progressive
transfer with an OFF/BATTERY-ONLY/BATTERY+ALT operation. There
is no "test" function illustrated in the Z-figures.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> > Are you planning to test the insulator for effects on
> > firewall integrity? There are a number of technologies
> > that have been tested. The one we use at RAC looks like
> > this:
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/fire
> > wall.html
> >
>
>I've seen this and the commercially available versions at
>http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html My issue is simply one of
>space. The stainless fitting & fireseal assembly sticks out from the
>firewall a good ways and I have very little space between the firewall
>and the rear engine components. By using an insulated bolt assembly to
>transfer the hot side through the firewall I'm trying to effectively
>build a 90 degree turn in the fat wire that is running from the battery
>to my firewall mounted starter. This would also give me a good
>connection point for the alternator feed on the front side of the
>firewall and for the main fuseblock feed on the rear side of the
>firewall.
Understand. Many have expressed the same goals . . . and many
have done just what you've suggested. Probability of fuel fed
fires under the cowl are very low . . .
>I also hear your point about the fire resistance of the insulator
>material. I suppose one could manufacture a stainless cover over the
>bolt and the exiting wires, but that may be more trouble than it's
>worth. It may just be easier to go to Home Depot and see if I can find
>the stainless towelbars that others have used so that I can get my
>right-angle turn in a smaller space.
The towel bars work well. Only problem is their size. 1-1/2" is
the "small" one.
You could also pack a little mole-hill of fire putty over the
stud and attached wires. I have another supplier working on
both right-angle and straight versions of the firewall penetration
fitting in sizes 1", 3/4" and 1/2"
Those are some weeks away yet but I think they're coming along well.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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| Subject: | Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Thanks Bob. Some clarification by me and some "new" info.
[snip]
> >
> >Question #1: What is the rationale for *not* connecting BOTH
> battery grounds
> >to the engine block *and* the firewall?
>
> You may have an older revision to Z-14. Download
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
> where you'll find that both batteries connect to firewall
> ground . . .
>
Will do. I was using Rev "J" as downloaded from your site.
**BUT** I had called B&C to order parts and they sent me a version with all
the parts spelled out. Turns out their version was **OLDER** than your "J"
from '03. Theirs it seems was from '02 and the s700-2-50 of yours was an
s700-2-5.
Now on the Rev J the battery grounds are connected (at least it seems to me)
to "G1"(eng) and "G2"(fwl). I just looked as you mentioned above and that
seems to be the same there.
I must be missing something/not seeing something here. Help me see that on
the diagram as both z14j from your front page on the web site and from the
reference above have different ground notes.
<maybe its time for glasses :-) >
>
> >Question #2: Might there be any damage to either battery or alternator if
> >the crossfeed is left on *and* the regulation is slightly
> different for each
> >battery/alternator?
>
> No. One alternator may try to pick up all the loads while
> the other relaxes . . . but when the load-hog's capacity
> is all used up, the bus voltage will sag and the other
> alternator will pick up the difference.
>
Thanks, I remember reading about one picking up the load until sag on the
other side enough to cause it to kick in.
>
> >Question #3: Is the full up position on the master switches a
> "test" postion
> >for the LR-3?
>
> ????? Not sure I understand. The master switches are progressive
> transfer with an OFF/BATTERY-ONLY/BATTERY+ALT operation. There
> is no "test" function illustrated in the Z-figures.
Oops! My bad. I was confusing switches with something else. Mind slipped
into neutral. :-)
Thanks,
James
>
> Bob . . .
>
> -----------------------------------------
> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> -----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:24 PM 3/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
><james@nextupventures.com>
>
>Thanks Bob. Some clarification by me and some "new" info.
>
>
>[snip]
>
> > >
> > >Question #1: What is the rationale for *not* connecting BOTH
> > battery grounds
> > >to the engine block *and* the firewall?
> >
> > You may have an older revision to Z-14. Download
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
> > where you'll find that both batteries connect to firewall
> > ground . . .
> >
>
>Will do. I was using Rev "J" as downloaded from your site.
>
>**BUT** I had called B&C to order parts and they sent me a version with all
>the parts spelled out. Turns out their version was **OLDER** than your "J"
>from '03. Theirs it seems was from '02 and the s700-2-50 of yours was an
>s700-2-5.
>
>Now on the Rev J the battery grounds are connected (at least it seems to me)
>to "G1"(eng) and "G2"(fwl). I just looked as you mentioned above and that
>seems to be the same there.
>
>I must be missing something/not seeing something here. Help me see that on
>the diagram as both z14j from your front page on the web site and from the
>reference above have different ground notes.
><maybe its time for glasses :-) >
Note the triangle symbol between the bolt on the instrument panel
bus (on firewall) and the engine. This calls out a braid bond strap
between the crankcase and the ground bus. The battery is connected
to the ground bus.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dale Martin" <niceez@cableone.net>
Bob,
Why does it have to be a braide bond strap? Because of the oil that is
associated with engine compartment?
Dale Martin
Lewiston, ID
LEZ-235
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Clarification questions regarding Z-14
> Note the triangle symbol between the bolt on the instrument panel
> bus (on firewall) and the engine. This calls out a braid bond strap
> between the crankcase and the ground bus. The battery is connected
> to the ground bus.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Airplane engines shake and vibrate (when they run)... I think
the 'curliness' of the braid reduces the chances of a work-harden
failure.
Matt-
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dale Martin"
> <niceez@cableone.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Why does it have to be a braide bond strap? Because of the oil that is
> associated with engine compartment?
>
> Dale Martin
> Lewiston, ID
> LEZ-235
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Clarification questions regarding Z-14
>
>
>> Note the triangle symbol between the bolt on the instrument panel
>> bus (on firewall) and the engine. This calls out a braid bond strap
>> between the crankcase and the ground bus. The battery is connected
>> to the ground bus.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Oh yeah... The braid is made from very fine wire which will
be more flexible. I looked in the archive to remind myself. The
archive is good.
Matt-
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dale Martin"
> <niceez@cableone.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Why does it have to be a braide bond strap? Because of the oil that is
> associated with engine compartment?
>
> Dale Martin
> Lewiston, ID
> LEZ-235
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Clarification questions regarding Z-14
>
>
>> Note the triangle symbol between the bolt on the instrument panel
>> bus (on firewall) and the engine. This calls out a braid bond strap
>> between the crankcase and the ground bus. The battery is connected
>> to the ground bus.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Thanks.
Sometimes one cannot see the forest for the trees.
The instrument ground is engine and by definition firewall connected. Just
like I did on a plane a couple of years ago!). And the "FWL" ground on the
Aux Batt is thereby connected to the "same" place ... the common "airframe"
and thus to the engine.
Looked right at it but looked right over it.
Thanks,
James
[snip]
>
> Note the triangle symbol between the bolt on the instrument panel
> bus (on firewall) and the engine. This calls out a braid bond strap
> between the crankcase and the ground bus. The battery is connected
> to the ground bus.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> _
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
Hi Scott
There is a picture of my firewall penetration for the battery cable at the
following link.
I used a Cole-Hershey product that is readily available and a lot cheaper
than the ones referred to in the messages below.
http://www.vansairforce.org/airplanes/C-GJTY/more.cgi?more
George in Langley
6A - 250 hrs
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Scott Richardson'"
<scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
Thanks Bob. I've included some follow-up comments below:
>
> >2. Is there any problem using a brass bolt to pass the +
> side current
> >through the firewall? I would use a phenolic ring around
> the bolt to
> >isolate the (grounded) firewall stainless from the bolt.
>
> Are you planning to test the insulator for effects on
> firewall integrity? There are a number of technologies
> that have been tested. The one we use at RAC looks like
> this:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/fire
> wall.html
>
I've seen this and the commercially available versions at
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html My issue is simply one of
space. The stainless fitting & fireseal assembly sticks out from the
firewall a good ways and I have very little space between the firewall
and the rear engine components. By using an insulated bolt assembly to
transfer the hot side through the firewall I'm trying to effectively
build a 90 degree turn in the fat wire that is running from the battery
to my firewall mounted starter. This would also give me a good
connection point for the alternator feed on the front side of the
firewall and for the main fuseblock feed on the rear side of the
firewall.
I also hear your point about the fire resistance of the insulator
material. I suppose one could manufacture a stainless cover over the
bolt and the exiting wires, but that may be more trouble than it's
worth. It may just be easier to go to Home Depot and see if I can find
the stainless towelbars that others have used so that I can get my
right-angle turn in a smaller space.
Thanks again,
Scott
---
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Control Stick Switch Override |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Bruce Gray asked about a switch to disconnect the switches on the copilot's
stick to avoid a fight over control. I installed a single switch (between the
seats next to my manual aileron trim control). Most of the wires going to the
stick come from somewhere, go to a switch on the stick, and then go to a
common ground. My switch simply disconnects these switches from ground. With
no
ground, all the circuits on the stick are essentially "open." I have Infinity
grips and purchased my switch from Infinity. It is a toggle type switch but
requires me to pull the toggle before it will swing over to the other
position. A nice safety feature. I have it set up so the pilot's stick switches
are
always "live" but the copilot's stick switches are only live if the toggle is
pointed to the right (switch "closed" to ground). In addition I installed a
tiny PTT button on the far right of the instrument panel so the copilot may
transmit without grabbing the stick.
Pete Hunt
Clearwater, FL
All electric IFR panel
RV-6, installing engine cowl
Message 27
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| Subject: | Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Scott Richardson'" <scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
Hi George,
I think I found the product:
Cole-Hersee 46211-01 Insulated Battery Feeder Stud
http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/master_cat/T137%20Battery.PDF (bottom of
page)
That does look like what I was thinking of. The thing I haven't found
is a location (on the web at least) to purchase it. Do you remember
where you got it and roughly what price you paid? Thanks.
Scott
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GMC
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 3:43 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Question on Z-13 & firewall
> penetration
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
>
>
> Hi Scott
>
> There is a picture of my firewall penetration for the battery
> cable at the following link. I used a Cole-Hershey product
> that is readily available and a lot cheaper than the ones
> referred to in the messages below.
>
> http://www.vansairforce.org/airplanes/C-GJTY/more.cgi?more
>
>
> George in Langley
> 6A - 250 hrs
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Scott Richardson'"
> <scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Thanks Bob. I've included some follow-up comments below:
>
> >
> > >2. Is there any problem using a brass bolt to pass the +
> > side current
> > >through the firewall? I would use a phenolic ring around
> > the bolt to
> > >isolate the (grounded) firewall stainless from the bolt.
> >
> > Are you planning to test the insulator for effects on
> > firewall integrity? There are a number of technologies
> > that have been tested. The one we use at RAC looks like
> > this:
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/fire
> > wall.html
> >
>
> I've seen this and the commercially available versions at
> http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html My issue is simply
> one of space. The stainless fitting & fireseal assembly
> sticks out from the firewall a good ways and I have very
> little space between the firewall and the rear engine
> components. By using an insulated bolt assembly to transfer
> the hot side through the firewall I'm trying to effectively
> build a 90 degree turn in the fat wire that is running from
> the battery to my firewall mounted starter. This would also
> give me a good connection point for the alternator feed on
> the front side of the firewall and for the main fuseblock
> feed on the rear side of the firewall.
>
> I also hear your point about the fire resistance of the
> insulator material. I suppose one could manufacture a
> stainless cover over the bolt and the exiting wires, but that
> may be more trouble than it's worth. It may just be easier
> to go to Home Depot and see if I can find the stainless
> towelbars that others have used so that I can get my
> right-angle turn in a smaller space.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Scott
>
>
> ---
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-> List.htm
> Search Engine:
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> ============
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>>I'm wiring up my Lancair 235 using Z-13 with the battery in the rear of
>>the aircraft (behind the passenger seat). I had some questions:
>>
>>1. The diagram shows the main fusebox being connected to the output
>>side of the battery connector. I'm assuming that I could connect it
>>either there or at the starter contactor end, correct? (This just saves
>>another run of #4 cable to the rear of the aircraft). Would there be
>>any problem of taking that feed somewhere in the middle of the run of #2
>>cable? - say near where it passes the instrument panel?
>
> Correct.
snipped
Bob,
Your answer to Scott's question was a bit to abbreviated for me to be sure of
your opinion on all points asked by Scott. Your answer of "correct" implies that
it is acceptable to tie the main fuse bus to either end of the battery's main
positive cable. However, what is the verdict on installing the main bus in
the middle of the cable's run? Please advise.
Charlie Kuss
Message 29
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| Subject: | Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
-bal.net>
Hi George,
I think I found the product:
Cole-Hersee 46211-01 Insulated Battery Feeder Stud
http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/master_cat/T137%20Battery.PDF (bottom of
page)
That does look like what I was thinking of. The thing I haven't found
is a location (on the web at least) to purchase it. Do you remember
where you got it and roughly what price you paid? Thanks.
Scott
Hi Scott
I ordered it through a local RV dealer - mobile home RV's! Can't remember
price but think it was about $20 Canadian ($12 US). It has a good sturdy
ceramic insulator and brass stud threaded on both ends.
Good Luck
George in Langley
---
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Relay's for warning lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello I. Am wiring up the electronics International Fuel gage and Engine
Analyzer they both have an external warning light option. The installation
instructions says to connect it to a relay and limited the current to 2/10 amp
maximum. If someone can point me to the write relay i would appreciate it. the
relay
will turn on a 12 volt LED. thanks
Bill
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:54 PM 3/9/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dale Martin" <niceez@cableone.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>Why does it have to be a braide bond strap? Because of the oil that is
>associated with engine compartment?
>
>Dale Martin
>Lewiston, ID
>LEZ-235
Doesn't have to be. The braided strap has been used
for many a vehicle to electrically attach things that
jump around (engine) to things that don't jump
so much (body). 2AWG welding cable would work good
too.
Bob . . .
Message 32
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| Subject: | Columbia 350 electrical system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
I posted this message last November and didn't receive any
responses. Lancair and Cirrus would seem to be interesting case studies
for modern electrical design, since they've both gone through the
certification of new airplanes quite recently. Of course, regulators of
certified planes don't necessarily have it all right, but...still
interesting to see what the newbies came up with. Thought I'd post it
again in case anyone has any thoughts.
.......................................
Lancair has put the information manual for its dual-electric Columbia 350
up on its website. I put a copy of the schematic for the electrical system
at http://members.cox.net/dansweb/350_schematic.pdf (the complete manual is
at http://www.lancair.com/files/downloads/350_INFO.PDF).
Natural questions relate to how and why their architecture differs from
Bob's Z-14. I notice three main differences: 1) There is a separate
avionics bus that offers "secondary protection of delicate avionics
equipment when the engine is started"; 2) there is an essential bus fed
from both the left and right buses; and 3) one of the gps/nav/coms is fed
directly from one of the batteries through a switch. Anyone have any
comments about the rationale/benefits/costs of this architecture?
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:55 PM 3/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>
> >
> >>I'm wiring up my Lancair 235 using Z-13 with the battery in the rear of
> >>the aircraft (behind the passenger seat). I had some questions:
> >>
> >>1. The diagram shows the main fusebox being connected to the output
> >>side of the battery connector. I'm assuming that I could connect it
> >>either there or at the starter contactor end, correct? (This just saves
> >>another run of #4 cable to the rear of the aircraft). Would there be
> >>any problem of taking that feed somewhere in the middle of the run of #2
> >>cable? - say near where it passes the instrument panel?
> >
> > Correct.
>snipped
>
>Bob,
> Your answer to Scott's question was a bit to abbreviated for me to be
> sure of your opinion on all points asked by Scott. Your answer of
> "correct" implies that it is acceptable to tie the main fuse bus to
> either end of the battery's main positive cable. However, what is the
> verdict on installing the main bus in the middle of the cable's run?
> Please advise.
In the middle? You mean running a cranking feeder from
battery contactor to main bus and then continuing on from
there to the starter contactor?
If I've understood your question correctly:
I think I'd rather see the run from battery contactor
to starter contactor be unbroken and a smaller wire
to feed the main bus taken from either the battery contactor
or starter contactor.
Bob . . .
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Relay's for warning lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:20 PM 3/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
>Hello I. Am wiring up the electronics International Fuel gage and Engine
>Analyzer they both have an external warning light option. The installation
>instructions says to connect it to a relay and limited the current to 2/10
>amp
>maximum. If someone can point me to the write relay i would appreciate it.
>the relay
>will turn on a 12 volt LED. thanks
I'm mystified as to the need for a relay . . . ESPECIALLY for
illuminating an LED. The LED will require 30 milliamperes or
less, far less than the 200 milliamperes cited. Adding
a relay seems unnecessarily complex and reduces reliability.
Just found their instructions on the 'net. You can hook an
LED directly to the warning light output of their product.
Is your LED a 12-volt device or do you need to add a resistor
in series with it?
Bob . . .
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Clarification questions regarding Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dale Martin" <niceez@cableone.net>
I used # 6 wire (Tefzel) on mine and is plenty flexible. I guess the on the
Lycoming if you mount it on the ground hole on the case is just doesn't move
very much.
- Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather"
<mprather@spro.net>
>
> Oh yeah... The braid is made from very fine wire which will
> be more flexible. I looked in the archive to remind myself. The
> archive is good.
>
> Matt-
> N34RD
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Frequently Asked Questions Compilation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Wow - that is a great document, both in size and in value!
Thanks for sharing it with us.
Mickey
List reader L. Holt has sent me a copy of his efforts to compile
>a list of frequently asked questions from the Matronics archives
>for the AeroElectric-List. ...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 37
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| Subject: | Question on Z-13 & firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Scott Richardson'" <scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
> >Bob,
> > Your answer to Scott's question was a bit to abbreviated
> for me to be
> > sure of your opinion on all points asked by Scott. Your answer of
> > "correct" implies that it is acceptable to tie the main fuse bus to
> > either end of the battery's main positive cable. However,
> what is the
> > verdict on installing the main bus in the middle of the
> cable's run?
> > Please advise.
>
> In the middle? You mean running a cranking feeder from
> battery contactor to main bus and then continuing on from
> there to the starter contactor?
>
> If I've understood your question correctly:
> I think I'd rather see the run from battery contactor
> to starter contactor be unbroken and a smaller wire
> to feed the main bus taken from either the battery contactor
> or starter contactor.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Since it was my original question, I'll clarify. Yes that was what I
meant. Again just to reduce (but maybe a foot at best) the amount of
heavier gauge wire needed to power the main bus. This was actually what
was shown in the original Lancair 235 construction manual: both + and -
fat wires run from the battery to a bus bar mounted on the header tank
and from there to the firewall mounted starter contactor.
What I was considering was something more like putting a "T" in the
middle of the long hot wire run. Under the panel I'd put in a hardpoint
with a brass bolt connecting ring terminals on the two segments of #2
connecting the battery contactor and starter contactor and another
segment of #4 to the main bus. Thinking about it more it seems that the
better plan is to simply use pull the main bus feed off the starter
contactor (where the alternator feed also comes in).
But this however, does raise another question. In Z-13 the alternator
feed into the starter contactor is protected by the large ANL. But the
connection between the battery contactor (or in my case starter
contactor) and the main bus does not have any protection - should it?
(Mine will be something like 3-4 ft).
Scott
Message 38
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| Subject: | Adhesives and ground contact |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
I'm considering using an adhesive, probably a marine rated silicone to bond a backing
plate to the bottom fuselage skins of my RV9A, rather than rivets. An
adhesive would be much more convenient than rivets, of any sort. The concern
I have with this plan, is that the backplate, with adhesive under it, could possibly
interfere with the antenna making good ground contact with the airframe.
Is this a real issue and has anyone tried this without difficulties?
Thanks
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