Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:26 AM - Separate start battery for Plasma III (Mark Neubauer)
2. 06:36 AM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (Scott Bilinski)
3. 06:58 AM - Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:13 AM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (Chad Robinson)
5. 07:20 AM - nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Julia)
6. 07:40 AM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:49 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:13 AM - Rubber Cable Grommets (Ken Brooks)
9. 08:23 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (richard@riley.net)
10. 08:30 AM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:35 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Dan Checkoway)
12. 08:37 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Rob Housman)
13. 08:44 AM - Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 08:51 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 09:27 AM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (George Braly)
16. 09:27 AM - Re: Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
17. 09:39 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Dan Checkoway)
18. 09:45 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (John Schroeder)
19. 09:54 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (John Schroeder)
20. 10:34 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (GMC)
21. 10:47 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (lm4@juno.com)
22. 10:47 AM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 10:49 AM - Re: Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 10:55 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 11:01 AM - Re: Rubber Cable Grommets (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
26. 11:01 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 11:04 AM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
28. 11:21 AM - Nav & Stobe on same switch?? (Julia)
29. 12:14 PM - Re: Dancing Ammeter (Metcalfe, Lee, AIR)
30. 12:21 PM - Re: Connector Identification (Steve Sampson)
31. 12:57 PM - Re: Re: Garmin 340 Audio panel question - RG400 to D-Sub? (N566u@aol.com)
32. 01:48 PM - Re: Re: Garmin 340 Audio panel question - (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
33. 02:17 PM - Re: Instrument adaptating queations .... pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------------- (Scott, Ian)
34. 03:43 PM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Joel Harding)
35. 03:52 PM - Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? (Joel Harding)
36. 04:54 PM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (George Braly)
37. 06:26 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 03/23/04 (Mcculleyja@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer" <mark.neubauer@genmar.com>
Several months ago, one member mentioned that the LSE unit has a rather irritating
quality that when the bus voltage drops to some unspecified (low) amount,
as during an extended engine cranking event, the brain gets "scrambled" and causes
a timing mis-fire. The result was that spark was delivered BEFORE top-dead-center,
causing the engine to try to spin backwards or cause a failure of the
starter pinion or ring gear due to the high forces involved.
My thoughts on this topic have been this: What about using a second, small battery
(around 5 Amp-hr for example) on board and electrically isolate this battery
just prior to engine crank with a separate switch? The purpose of this battery
is to provide clean, isolated power to the LSE units during the crank event
without its voltage being "dragged" down by the starter. In essence, this would
require that an additional switch would be placed in the "start" position
and used to feed LSE power exclusively from this small battery; then, after the
engine is running, tie the two batteries back together by throwing the switch
back to its "run" position and thereby let the alternator keep both batteries
charged.
Any thoughts on this logic?
Mark N.
GlaStar
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
LSE ignition units work as low as 4~5 volts if memory serves, its listed on
their web site. If your idea of the second battery works then either the
IGN system has a problem or you by passed the problem somewhere else.
SoAt 07:26 AM 3/24/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer"
><mark.neubauer@genmar.com>
>
>Several months ago, one member mentioned that the LSE unit has a rather
>irritating quality that when the bus voltage drops to some unspecified (low)
>amount, as during an extended engine cranking event, the brain gets
>"scrambled" and causes a timing mis-fire. The result was that spark was
>delivered BEFORE top-dead-center, causing the engine to try to spin
>backwards or cause a failure of the starter pinion or ring gear due to the
>high forces involved.
>
>My thoughts on this topic have been this: What about using a second, small
>battery (around 5 Amp-hr for example) on board and electrically isolate this
>battery just prior to engine crank with a separate switch? The purpose of
>this battery is to provide clean, isolated power to the LSE units during the
>crank event without its voltage being "dragged" down by the starter. In
>essence, this would require that an additional switch would be placed in the
>"start" position and used to feed LSE power exclusively from this small
>battery; then, after the engine is running, tie the two batteries back
>together by throwing the switch back to its "run" position and thereby let
>the alternator keep both batteries charged.
>
>Any thoughts on this logic?
>
>Mark N.
>GlaStar
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:05 AM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>he just did what everyone else usually does. go some distance away and
>turn the ELT one and listen in on a Rx for the signal.
>
>it worked to a distance on the ground that satisfied him.
If that's enough for you, then we can truck on. Building antennas isn't
difficult. Building good antennas isn't either but there are
characteristics
of performance that are difficult to quantify without some pretty
sophisticated test equipment. We know from experience that a rod sticking
straight out of the skin is about the best we know how to do. There are
some second-best ideas that tuck antennas away under fiberglas . . . and
experience has shown these to be useful at some level. The problem
with ELT antennas vs. COMM antennas, one doesn't want to do much
'experimenting'
to prove or disprove any particular levels of effectiveness by experience.
I've seen and heard of hideaway antennas that looked really great on
the antenna analyzer but produced terrible radiation patterns and levels
of radiation efficiency. You can tie a 50 ohm resistor onto the end
of your coax in lieu of a real antenna and the analyzer will call it
"excellent" while in fact, radiation is zero and a pattern is non-existent.
With these hard facts of physics in mind, you can duplicate the work
of others but unless you have exact details of their antenna
tested at any level, then acquiring use of an antenna analyzer
like . .
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-259B
is one of the several keys to success. Beyond that,
it's a matter of hiding a conductor under the fiberglas that
has been trimmed to length so that it LOOKS like a decent
antenna to the transmitter (3:1 or less VSWR) and supporting
the conductor in a way that doesn't allow it to shift
position over time. It's important to put as much space between
the antenna and conductive structure. A foil antenna stuck
on inside surface of fiberglas might do the trick.
You don't need to listen to the ELT on a hand held. As
long as you can see your airplane, you'll hear it too.
The questions become will a satellite hear the airplane
from 200 miles overhead at the look-angles inherent to the
antenna's design . . . here's where patterns come into play.
Beyond this, there are no recommendations I can offer given
that I've not personally attacked the problem and tested the
results nor have I seen data from anyone else's solution.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
Mark Neubauer wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer"
> <mark.neubauer@genmar.com>
>
> Several months ago, one member mentioned that the LSE unit has a rather
> irritating quality that when the bus voltage drops to some unspecified
> (low) amount, as during an extended engine cranking event, the brain gets
> "scrambled" and causes a timing mis-fire. The result was that spark was
> delivered BEFORE top-dead-center, causing the engine to try to spin
> backwards or cause a failure of the starter pinion or ring gear due to the
> high forces involved.
>
> My thoughts on this topic have been this: What about using a second, small
> battery (around 5 Amp-hr for example) on board and electrically isolate
> this battery just prior to engine crank with a separate switch? The purpose
> of this battery is to provide clean, isolated power to the LSE units during
> the crank event without its voltage being "dragged" down by the starter. In
> essence, this would require that an additional switch would be placed in
> the "start" position and used to feed LSE power exclusively from this small
> battery; then, after the engine is running, tie the two batteries back
> together by throwing the switch back to its "run" position and thereby let
> the alternator keep both batteries charged.
I'll let Bob respond to the need for a second battery, but you can at least
avoid the isolation switch. Just put a diode between the battery and the
primary bus, a-la the endurance bus. If your main bus voltage drops 12V
(actually, below 12V+diode voltage drop), the diode will turn off and that bus
will be isolated. But, while the main bus is greater than that of the battery,
the LSE and battery will see that voltage, so the alternator will supply the
battery (charge it) and the LSE.
Be careful of diode selection. Diodes have a voltage drop that will reduce the
voltage seen by this isolated bus. If the drop is large enough the backup
battery won't charge properly. If you use a "Schottky" diode, a type with a
very small drop, you should be fine.
Also, why 5Ah? According to their Web site the LSE draws 1.2-1.3A depending on
the model. For the five seconds you'd be cranking you could get by with a
smaller value, probably as low as 1.5A although 2-2.5A would be safer. That
would save a lot of weight and make this a more acceptable option. You're
probably still best with a small sealed lead-acid though, unless Bob has a
better idea. They don't need charge controllers the way, say, a NiMH battery
would.
Regards,
Chad
Message 5
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| Subject: | nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same switch - an
OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial disorientation -
by putting the switch in the middle position??
thanks
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Every starter motor has a lock-rotor current (stall current)
that is equal to "inrush" current. This value of current can
be expected to flow in the milliseconds before the motor's
armature accelerates to operating speed. PM motors, due to
very low resistance, have the highest inrush current.
A few months ago, I published voltage vs time plots for
battery voltage taken from my GMC van during a cranking
event. The battery installed load tested at nearly 500A
for a 15 second, 9v test and a wound-field starter. Inrush
currents for starting produced a negative-going transition
that bottomed out at about 8.5 volts (inrush on the order
of 500A).
With smaller batteries and PM starter motors it's conceivable
that a battery might drop into the 4-5 volt range for a few
milliseconds even if the battery appears to crank the engine
just fine.
If this is a concern for any of you, my suggestion is to
leave the ignition switch off until after the starter
has the prop turning so that the ignition system doesn't
see the inrush-transient.
We're poking around in the extreme corners of system performance
for the ignition, battery, starter combination. The combination
of conditions that cause problems are VERY sensitive to
operating procedures, selection of components (battery size)
and/or preventative maintenance. This is another case that
argues in favor of yearly change out of batteries . . .
especially for small ones.
The quest for light weight and exemplar performance don't
march along hand-in-hand. I'm working some battery issues
at RAC right now where I'm confident that the quest for
lightness combined with low interest in preventative
maintenance has produced some unhappy consumers.
Bob . . .
>LSE ignition units work as low as 4~5 volts if memory serves, its listed on
>their web site. If your idea of the second battery works then either the
>IGN system has a problem or you by passed the problem somewhere else.
>
>
>SoAt 07:26 AM 3/24/04 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer"
> ><mark.neubauer@genmar.com>
> >
> >Several months ago, one member mentioned that the LSE unit has a rather
> >irritating quality that when the bus voltage drops to some unspecified
> (low)
> >amount, as during an extended engine cranking event, the brain gets
> >"scrambled" and causes a timing mis-fire. The result was that spark was
> >delivered BEFORE top-dead-center, causing the engine to try to spin
> >backwards or cause a failure of the starter pinion or ring gear due to the
> >high forces involved.
<snip>
> >My thoughts on this topic have been this: What about using a second, small
> >battery (around 5 Amp-hr for example) on board and electrically isolate
> this
> >battery just prior to engine crank with a separate switch? The purpose of
> >this battery is to provide clean, isolated power to the LSE units during
> the
> >crank event without its voltage being "dragged" down by the starter. In
> >essence, this would require that an additional switch would be placed in
> the
> >"start" position and used to feed LSE power exclusively from this small
> >battery; then, after the engine is running, tie the two batteries back
> >together by throwing the switch back to its "run" position and thereby let
> >the alternator keep both batteries charged.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:19 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same switch
>- an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
>so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
>disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
>thanks
No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Rubber Cable Grommets |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
I'm trying to seal up a 1 3/16" hole that has a 1/4" cable going through the
center and am having trouble locating the right size rubber grommet (Wicks,
ACS, etc.). Seems like the ones that fit the large bulkhead hole size all
have larger holes for the cable also (1/2"). Has anyone had any luck making
their own rubber grommets by cutting/punching out the right cable size hole
in the middle? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm trying to seal
well and look good too.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
RV-8 spaghetti everywhere
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
At 09:49 AM 3/24/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 07:19 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
> >
> >any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same switch
> >- an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
> >so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
> >disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
> >thanks
>
> No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
> go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
> operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
I used that switch, but I had the opposite logic. I figured when I was
taxiing on the ground I wanted nav lights on, but I don't turn on the
strobes till I enter the active runway.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>I'll let Bob respond to the need for a second battery, but you can at least
>avoid the isolation switch. Just put a diode between the battery and the
>primary bus, a-la the endurance bus. If your main bus voltage drops 12V
>(actually, below 12V+diode voltage drop), the diode will turn off and that
>bus
>will be isolated. But, while the main bus is greater than that of the
>battery,
>the LSE and battery will see that voltage, so the alternator will supply the
>battery (charge it) and the LSE.
>
>Be careful of diode selection. Diodes have a voltage drop that will reduce
>the
>voltage seen by this isolated bus. If the drop is large enough the backup
>battery won't charge properly. If you use a "Schottky" diode, a type with a
>very small drop, you should be fine.
>
>Also, why 5Ah? According to their Web site the LSE draws 1.2-1.3A
>depending on
>the model. For the five seconds you'd be cranking you could get by with a
>smaller value, probably as low as 1.5A although 2-2.5A would be safer. That
>would save a lot of weight and make this a more acceptable option. You're
>probably still best with a small sealed lead-acid though, unless Bob has a
>better idea. They don't need charge controllers the way, say, a NiMH battery
>would.
Actually, rather than install a second battery, a computer grade
electrolytic capacitor across the input power leads to the ignition
system with a series isolation diode would do the same thing and
without adding battery to the system (no maintenance). We only need
to support the ignition system during the starter motor inrush
interval (milliseconds). Seems that if the system is vulnerable
to this common condition, the feature should be built into the
ignition system.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I did the OFF-NAV-NAV+STROBE single switch thing in my RV-7, and I'm
regretting it already (and I'm not even flying yet).
Bob's point is right on, where you may want strobes on during the day but
don't need to run the position lights. The only problem with doing what Bob
suggested (OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE) is that at *night*, when you're sitting
there on the runup pad or at the threshold waiting for your clearance, you
may not want those strobes on, but you definitely want the position lights
on.
In my case, running the position lights during the day is the worst case
scenario...which ain't all that bad. I'm just prepared to have to replace
those bulbs sooner that I might have otherwise. No big deal, but it's not
ideal.
I guess my point is that if you have the space, go with separate switches if
you can. I know next time I will.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: nav & strobe on the same switch???
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 07:19 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
> >
> >any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same switch
> >- an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
> >so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
> >disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
> >thanks
>
> No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
> go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
> operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
However, while on the taxiway it is courteous to leave off the strobes to
avoid flashing in the eyes of other pilots.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: nav & strobe on the same switch???
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:19 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same switch
>- an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
>so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
>disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
>thanks
No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:33 AM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Bob,
>How can I take some soft SS that some VHF comm antennas are made from and
>attach a threaded end on the bottom like an ELT antenna has so I can mount
>it horizontally to a bulkhead. I want to do that instead of epoxying
>copper strips to fiberglass fairings.
If you want stainless, you can drill a steel bolt head and silver-solder the
stainless rod into it to provide a threaded fitting at one end. Since
the antenna is totally enclosed, you could use some brass rod and soft
solder it into the drilled head of a brass bolt. 3/8" brass hardware
can be insulated from the sheet metal using insulating washers like those
used on mic and headset jacks. See:
http://bandc.biz/s890-1sm.jpg
which you can order at:
http://bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?24X358218#s892
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:20 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>At 09:49 AM 3/24/04 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> ><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> >At 07:19 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > >any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same switch
> > >- an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
> > >so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
> > >disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
> > >thanks
> >
> > No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
> > go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
> > operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
>
>I used that switch, but I had the opposite logic. I figured when I was
>taxiing on the ground I wanted nav lights on, but I don't turn on the
>strobes till I enter the active runway.
Never heard of this. Nav lights are pretty close to useless for
any practical purpose. Strobe lights get people's attention that
the engine is running and/or the airplane is in motion about
the airport and is visible day and night whether ground based or
airborne. Further, strobes take less total energy to operate.
Of course, there's the courtesy issue of not blasting retinas
off the eyeballs of other pilots taxiing in the area. Once you've
left the ramp and enter controlled environment, the value of showing
any lights becomes problematical and may create more hazard/discomfort
than value.
When you're in IMC, you don't need to show any lights. Nobody is
going to see them whether strobe or steady and there is value
being able to run strobes in day-vfr environment.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 15
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| Subject: | Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
Bob,
I suspect the system is resetting continuously during the crank cycle - - and then
fires correctly only when the starter solenoid is released.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Separate start battery for Plasma III
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>I'll let Bob respond to the need for a second battery, but you can at least
>avoid the isolation switch. Just put a diode between the battery and the
>primary bus, a-la the endurance bus. If your main bus voltage drops 12V
>(actually, below 12V+diode voltage drop), the diode will turn off and that
>bus
>will be isolated. But, while the main bus is greater than that of the
>battery,
>the LSE and battery will see that voltage, so the alternator will supply the
>battery (charge it) and the LSE.
>
>Be careful of diode selection. Diodes have a voltage drop that will reduce
>the
>voltage seen by this isolated bus. If the drop is large enough the backup
>battery won't charge properly. If you use a "Schottky" diode, a type with a
>very small drop, you should be fine.
>
>Also, why 5Ah? According to their Web site the LSE draws 1.2-1.3A
>depending on
>the model. For the five seconds you'd be cranking you could get by with a
>smaller value, probably as low as 1.5A although 2-2.5A would be safer. That
>would save a lot of weight and make this a more acceptable option. You're
>probably still best with a small sealed lead-acid though, unless Bob has a
>better idea. They don't need charge controllers the way, say, a NiMH battery
>would.
Actually, rather than install a second battery, a computer grade
electrolytic capacitor across the input power leads to the ignition
system with a series isolation diode would do the same thing and
without adding battery to the system (no maintenance). We only need
to support the ignition system during the starter motor inrush
interval (milliseconds). Seems that if the system is vulnerable
to this common condition, the feature should be built into the
ignition system.
Bob . . .
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 3/24/2004 11:44:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, bob.nuckolls@cox.net
writes:
> Since
> the antenna is totally enclosed, you could use some brass
> rod and soft
> solder it into the drilled head of a brass bolt.
Bob, I made electrical "copies" of the Archer -style wingtip antennas depicted
in the 'Connection out of brass hobby tubing and flat stock, assembled structurally
with soldered joints, and they have held up for a year in my RV wingtip
with no structural failures. I'm quite happy with this type of "ugly" homebrew
construction for antennas that are enclosed in structure; it's beefier than
it looks.
-Bill Boyd
RV-6A
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> When you're in IMC, you don't need to show any lights. Nobody is
> going to see them whether strobe or steady and there is value
> being able to run strobes in day-vfr environment.
If you're flying in and out of clouds at night, I personally think it's best
to keep your strobes off but your position lights ON.
Granted, ATC is supposed to maintain separation, but you never know what
might be lurking around out there. 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
That's the way we are going to do it using one of B&C (Bob's) S700-2-10
switches. Doing the same with dome lighting: first is red, then both red
and white.
John
> any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same
> switch - an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
> so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
> disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
> thanks
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
But if you go IMC/IFR you'll may want to be able to get the strobes off
first.
John
> No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
> go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
> operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same switch
>- an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
>so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
>disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
>thanks
No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
Bob . . .
Except the above setup does not allow for operations on the ground at night
in the vicinity of other aircraft. Also the suggestion of operating IFR at
night with NAV+STROBE off will eventually end up with the aircraft landing
at night with no lights showing.
Put in a four position rotary switch or individual switches.
George in Langley
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
If your using a single feed to the switch and If the fuse blows
you will lose your position lights and your strobes.. HTH
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 07:19:56 -0800 (PST) Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
writes:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
> any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same
> switch - an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
> so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
> disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
> thanks
Message 22
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| Subject: | Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:28 AM 3/24/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
>
>Bob,
>
>I suspect the system is resetting continuously during the crank cycle - -
>and then fires correctly only when the starter solenoid is released.
Hmmmm . . . I'm mystified by such behavior. If you have a brown-out
watchdog, it shouldn't call for a reset until after the bus voltage
exceeds minimum levels for performance. After the initial inrush
event, a single "good to go" signal from the watchdog should be
sufficient.
If your hypothesis is correct, then a rudimentary review of DO-160
power input conditions would be useful in crafting the next generation
of product.
Bob . . .
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
>L. Nuckolls, III
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Separate start battery for Plasma III
>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
> >
> >I'll let Bob respond to the need for a second battery, but you can at least
> >avoid the isolation switch. Just put a diode between the battery and the
> >primary bus, a-la the endurance bus. If your main bus voltage drops 12V
> >(actually, below 12V+diode voltage drop), the diode will turn off and that
> >bus
> >will be isolated. But, while the main bus is greater than that of the
> >battery,
> >the LSE and battery will see that voltage, so the alternator will supply the
> >battery (charge it) and the LSE.
> >
> >Be careful of diode selection. Diodes have a voltage drop that will reduce
> >the
> >voltage seen by this isolated bus. If the drop is large enough the backup
> >battery won't charge properly. If you use a "Schottky" diode, a type with a
> >very small drop, you should be fine.
> >
> >Also, why 5Ah? According to their Web site the LSE draws 1.2-1.3A
> >depending on
> >the model. For the five seconds you'd be cranking you could get by with a
> >smaller value, probably as low as 1.5A although 2-2.5A would be safer. That
> >would save a lot of weight and make this a more acceptable option. You're
> >probably still best with a small sealed lead-acid though, unless Bob has a
> >better idea. They don't need charge controllers the way, say, a NiMH battery
> >would.
>
> Actually, rather than install a second battery, a computer grade
> electrolytic capacitor across the input power leads to the ignition
> system with a series isolation diode would do the same thing and
> without adding battery to the system (no maintenance). We only need
> to support the ignition system during the starter motor inrush
> interval (milliseconds). Seems that if the system is vulnerable
> to this common condition, the feature should be built into the
> ignition system.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
>
>---
>
>
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Fin tip ELT antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:27 PM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 3/24/2004 11:44:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> > Since
> > the antenna is totally enclosed, you could use some brass
> > rod and soft
> > solder it into the drilled head of a brass bolt.
>
>Bob, I made electrical "copies" of the Archer -style wingtip antennas
>depicted in the 'Connection out of brass hobby tubing and flat stock,
>assembled structurally with soldered joints, and they have held up for a
>year in my RV wingtip with no structural failures. I'm quite happy with
>this type of "ugly" homebrew construction for antennas that are enclosed
>in structure; it's beefier than it looks.
that configuration has certainly proven it's worth over the
years. Is there enough room under fin tip to incorporate this
style antenna?
Bob . . .
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:38 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > When you're in IMC, you don't need to show any lights. Nobody is
> > going to see them whether strobe or steady and there is value
> > being able to run strobes in day-vfr environment.
>
>If you're flying in and out of clouds at night, I personally think it's best
>to keep your strobes off but your position lights ON.
>
>Granted, ATC is supposed to maintain separation, but you never know what
>might be lurking around out there. 8-)
When was the last time you visually captured an airplane
at night based solely on position lights? What's to say
that variability of cloud-reflected light from the nav fixtures
is not also strong source of visual confusion leading to vertigo?
This effect might be especially strong when flying in and out
of clouds.
It's a belt-n-suspenders suggestion that needs a closer look.
I'm not seeing how benefits outweigh risks.
Bob . . .
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rubber Cable Grommets |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:02 AM 3/24/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
>I'm trying to seal up a 1 3/16" hole that has a 1/4" cable going through the
>center and am having trouble locating the right size rubber grommet (Wicks,
>ACS, etc.). Seems like the ones that fit the large bulkhead hole size all
>have larger holes for the cable also (1/2"). Has anyone had any luck making
>their own rubber grommets by cutting/punching out the right cable size hole
>in the middle? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm trying to seal
>well and look good too.
That's a tall order for a rubber part. Is this in a firewall where
"sealing" is important? I'd build a cover plate and downsize the
grommet hole. Also, if on the firewall, add grommet shields and
fire putty -OR- go to a more robust and purposeful firewall penetration.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
Bob . . .
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:33 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I did the OFF-NAV-NAV+STROBE single switch thing in my RV-7, and I'm
>regretting it already (and I'm not even flying yet).
>
>Bob's point is right on, where you may want strobes on during the day but
>don't need to run the position lights. The only problem with doing what Bob
>suggested (OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE) is that at *night*, when you're sitting
>there on the runup pad or at the threshold waiting for your clearance, you
>may not want those strobes on, but you definitely want the position lights
>on.
>
>In my case, running the position lights during the day is the worst case
>scenario...which ain't all that bad. I'm just prepared to have to replace
>those bulbs sooner that I might have otherwise. No big deal, but it's not
>ideal.
>
>I guess my point is that if you have the space, go with separate switches if
>you can. I know next time I will.
Sounds like a plan . . .
Bob . . .
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:44 PM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
>
>If your using a single feed to the switch and If the fuse blows
> you will lose your position lights and your strobes.. HTH
>Larry Mac Donald
>Rochester N.Y.
>do not archive
With the progressive switch, each system is powered from
its own fuse. See figure 11-18 in the 'Connection
Bob . . .
Message 28
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| Subject: | Nav & Stobe on same switch?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
So after all the comments so far - would it be fair to say that two seperate switches
is best but if you have to go with one switch then Off / __??___/___??
what is best??
I think i'd like to be able to turn on Navs at night and not have stobes - so off/nav/nav&strobe
would be best.
For day light landing - i've got the wigwag setup - so I don't see that I need
strobes.
Bob's idea was off/stobe/strobe&nav - however this would not allow me to shut off
the strobe and still have the nav?
In thinking off/nav/nav&strobe sounds best from what i've heard so far
thanks
Message 29
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Metcalfe, Lee, AIR" <Lee.Metcalfe@jocogov.org>
'Lectric Bob and other interested folks:
Just replaced my el-cheapo Cessna knock-off split master switch with a
new Cessna part (from ACS) and viola, problem solved. I had also been
having a problem with the BAT side of the switch (had to mash it hard
when turning on the battery to get the contactor to engage). The switch
is at least fifteen years old and is of inferior quality. I may get
scientific and open it up to see what the contacts look like.
Cheers!
Lee
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dancing Ammeter
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:06 AM 3/19/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Metcalfe, Lee, AIR"
><Lee.Metcalfe@jocogov.org>
>
>My flying Lancair 320 has 517 hrs. TT. Within the last few hours of
>flying, the ammeter has begun a rhythmic wiggle at about 1.5 cycles per
>second with about a 10 amp amplitude. Occasionally the amplitude will
>go full scale with no apparent triggering event. Adding load just
>moves the range of the wiggle further up the scale. The frequency of
>the wiggle is independent of engine RPM. It's the same at idle as at
>full tilt boogie. I have pulled the alternator (generic automotive
>type, externally regulated) and had it tested. No problems. I have
>checked, cleaned and tightened all connections in the
>alternator/regulator/battery circuits. I'm now down to either the
>regulator or the meter being bad. The meter is one of those combined
>ammeter/voltmeter jobbies where it normally shows amps and you push a
>button for volts. The ammeter is shunted from the B lead, which goes
>through a 35-amp breaker to the main bus. The voltage indication is
>rock steady and agrees with the digital voltage shown in my EDM-700.
>The battery (Odyssey PC925) seems to be being charged normally. The
>regulator is a generic automotive type and is the original installation
>(517 hrs.). It is mounted on the engine side of the firewall in a very
>difficult place to get to (I didn't build my plane). Changing it is
>going to be a major pain. That's why I wanted to get y'all's feedback
>before attacking the regulator.
>
>Any suggestions for further troubleshooting? I have a digital
>multimeter but don't know how to use it to diagnose this situation.
Dancing ammeters are almost always due to increasing resistance
of wiring and components between the bus and the regulator's "bus"
terminal.
Hundreds of Cessna's and Pipers do this every year. Most get "fixed"
by replacing the regulator or perhaps one of the suspect components
like
the split rocker master switch.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Connector Identification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
John - been there, identifying the parts drove me nuts! In the UK the parts
I ordered to work with a Nove and have connected are:
Qty Manufac Farnell Descr Price ea Price
5 299-467 Pin Housing 0.44 2.20
5 299-509 Socket 0.46 2.30
1 299-560 14-18 Pins 7.84 7.84
1 299-571 14-18 Sockets 7.84 7.84
P222, Book 2 in the Farnell catalogue.
Check before you order but I think that will work just fine. (I might have
ordered 4 rather than 3 way)
Steve.
N Yorks., UK
RV9a #90360
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
n3eu@comcast.net
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Connector Identification
---
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 340 Audio panel question - RG400 to |
D-Sub?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N566u@aol.com
In a message dated 3/23/2004 9:41:59 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/RG400_Dsub/RG400_Dsub_1.jpg
Looks simple to install. Thanks for the offer!
Ronald Smith
15460 Blackbird Drive
Fountain Hills AZ 85268
Do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 340 Audio panel question - |
RG400 to D-Sub?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:57 PM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N566u@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 3/23/2004 9:41:59 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
>bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/RG400_Dsub/RG400_Dsub_1.jpg
>Looks simple to install. Thanks for the offer!
>
>Ronald Smith
>15460 Blackbird Drive
>Fountain Hills AZ 85268
it's on the way.
Bob . . .
Message 33
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| Subject: | Instrument adaptating queations .... pts rule name |
description ---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott, Ian" <ian_scott@commander.com>
Have a look for something like a digital panel meter, they usually have resistive
arrays to change the scale of the reading,
something in Australia is
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QP5580&CATID=&keywords=digital+panel+meter&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID
I use them with a special thermocouple amp, to make a digital CHT gauge.
Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim
Sower
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Instrument adaptating queations .... pts
rule name description ---- ----------------------
--------------------------------------------------
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
<... Yup, 50 mv movements are commonly used with off-the-shelf shunts. For switching
between two shunts of different current values, you can do either dual-scale instrument
or a
single ...>
Movements are well and good. I can understand that. What I'm trying to adapt
is a digital
display. How do I reduce a digital display to a 50mv galvanometer? That was the
original
question. I've got digital displays that massage the input (volts, gallons, deg
F, whatever)
and display it numerically. How do I modify a digital voltmeter to display amps
across a
shunt?
Still wonderin' .... Jim S.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
Julia, that will work just fine, but if you plan to use your strobe in
daylight you'll be burning your nav bulbs as well. No big deal, but
will shorten the life of the nav bulbs.
Joel Harding
On Mar 24, 2004, at 8:19 AM, Julia wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
> any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same
> switch - an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
> so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
> disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
> thanks
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: nav & strobe on the same switch??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
On Mar 24, 2004, at 8:49 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 07:19 AM 3/24/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>>
>> any reason why the nav lights and strobe should not be on the same
>> switch
>> - an OFF / NAV / NAV & STOBE - three position switch
>> so I could shut off the strobe when in IMC to minimize spacial
>> disorientation - by putting the switch in the middle position??
>> thanks
>
> No problem. The 2-10 progressive switch will implement this. I'd
> go OFF-STROBE-NAV+STROBE for sequence. Strobe lights are often
> operated vfr-day and need to come on before the nav lights.
>
> Bob . . .
>
The only downside to that combination is that while taxiing in or out
at night, the strobes will be popping off, which can be somewhat
irritating if other folks are in the vicinity.
Joel Harding
Message 36
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| Subject: | Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
Bob, That system has no uP. It is all analog. I probably misled you
by using the term "re-setting". Sorry. Poor and inarticulate choice
of words, on my part.
Regards, George
>Bob,
>
>I suspect the system is resetting continuously during the crank cycle -
-
>and then fires correctly only when the starter solenoid is released.
Hmmmm . . . I'm mystified by such behavior. If you have a brown-out
watchdog, it shouldn't call for a reset until after the bus voltage
exceeds minimum levels for performance. After the initial inrush
event, a single "good to go" signal from the watchdog should be
sufficient.
If your hypothesis is correct, then a rudimentary review of DO-160
power input conditions would be useful in crafting the next
generation
of product.
Bob . . .
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Robert
>L. Nuckolls, III
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Separate start battery for Plasma III
>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
> >
> >I'll let Bob respond to the need for a second battery, but you can at
least
> >avoid the isolation switch. Just put a diode between the battery and
the
> >primary bus, a-la the endurance bus. If your main bus voltage drops
12V
> >(actually, below 12V+diode voltage drop), the diode will turn off and
that
> >bus
> >will be isolated. But, while the main bus is greater than that of the
> >battery,
> >the LSE and battery will see that voltage, so the alternator will
supply the
> >battery (charge it) and the LSE.
> >
> >Be careful of diode selection. Diodes have a voltage drop that will
reduce
> >the
> >voltage seen by this isolated bus. If the drop is large enough the
backup
> >battery won't charge properly. If you use a "Schottky" diode, a type
with a
> >very small drop, you should be fine.
> >
> >Also, why 5Ah? According to their Web site the LSE draws 1.2-1.3A
> >depending on
> >the model. For the five seconds you'd be cranking you could get by
with a
> >smaller value, probably as low as 1.5A although 2-2.5A would be
safer. That
> >would save a lot of weight and make this a more acceptable option.
You're
> >probably still best with a small sealed lead-acid though, unless Bob
has a
> >better idea. They don't need charge controllers the way, say, a NiMH
battery
> >would.
>
> Actually, rather than install a second battery, a computer grade
> electrolytic capacitor across the input power leads to the ignition
> system with a series isolation diode would do the same thing and
> without adding battery to the system (no maintenance). We only
need
> to support the ignition system during the starter motor inrush
> interval (milliseconds). Seems that if the system is vulnerable
> to this common condition, the feature should be built into the
> ignition system.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
>
>---
>
>
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
==
==
==
==
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 03/23/04 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mcculleyja@aol.com
In a message dated 3/24/04 2:57:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
> Last weekend I remembered to check the SD-8 at lower RPM's. The voltage
> drops off gradually below 1500 RPM's, reaching 12 volts at about 1200 RPM's.
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, 300+ hours
> Columbia, SC
>
I can confirm the same. Even with NO electrical load other than the battery
contactor draw of 750 ma and with the battery (17 AH RG) fully charged and
showing 12.8 volts, the voltage will not begin to rise above 12.8 volts until
above 1500-1700 RPM (Lycoming 180 HP). Above this RPM the voltage rises quickly
to 14.4, but the current output remains close to one amp because the battery
is essentially fully charged. Only as additional electrical load is turned on
(radio, xponder, etc) does the current output of the SD-8 begin to rise to
meet the operating load of these devices plus the minor charging need of the
battery. During this adding of load the system voltage drops slightly as appears
normal, based on whatever is the steady state RPM and load.
Jim McCulley
Operational Tailwind
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