Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:44 AM - Re: PM Alternator (Ken Harrill)
2. 07:56 AM - Re: Separate start battery for Plasma III (Ken Harrill)
3. 01:21 PM - Hybrid 14/28V system (Gianni Zuliani)
4. 02:28 PM - Separate start battery for Plasma III (Troy Scott)
5. 03:04 PM - Amnmeter remote wiring (Jim Sower)
6. 03:15 PM - Re: Hybrid 14/28V system (n3eu@comcast.net)
7. 08:39 PM - Smoke Test - problem (Rick Fogerson)
8. 09:59 PM - Re: Smoke Test - problem (Matt Prather)
9. 10:23 PM - Re: Smoke Test - problem (Richard E. Tasker)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>the SD-8 does not produce much current below about 1500 RPM,<
'Much' isn't very quantified.
Bob, Ken,
The SD-8 on my RV-6 produces the following voltage readings on a VM-1000
engine monitor (sensing the endurance buss) with everything OFF.
RPM Voltage
800 11.2
900 11.2
1000 11.4
1100 11.9
1200 12.9
1300 13.7
1400 14.4
1500 14.4
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 300+ hours
Columbia, SC
Message 2
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| Subject: | Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
-----Original Message-----
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
LSE ignition units work as low as 4~5 volts if memory serves, its listed on
their web site. If your idea of the second battery works then either the
IGN system has a problem or you by passed the problem somewhere else.
Scott,
On my RV-6, the voltage (measured at the ignition module) drops to around 8
volts with the starter engaged, and the LSE does not fire at that voltage,
regardless of what Klause claims.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 300+ hours
Message 3
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| Subject: | Hybrid 14/28V system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gianni Zuliani" <gianni@comgz.com>
Hi Bob,
I'm planning to implement a 14V system very similar to your Z-13 schematic, but
including the possibility to power a 28V radio. To this end, I would use 2 SPDT
relays to put the SD-8 pm alternator (coupled with its own 7.2 Ah battery)
alternatively in series (in normal mode) or in parallel with the normal 14V system.
The parallel mode would be used in case of failure of the primary belt
driven alternator. In this emergency, only the SD-8 would be used to feed the
14V system while the 28V power would be attained (for about one hour, at the amperage
requested by the radio) by the small battery only, which of course would
always remain in series.
I've never seen something like this, but my experience in electrical systems is
very limited. That's why I'd like to hear your comments on my idea. Thank you.
Gianni Zuliani
Stag-Ez RG I-MEZE
http://www.comgz.com/Tristar.html
Message 4
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| Subject: | Separate start battery for Plasma III |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott" <tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
Bob,
I actually have Jeff Rose's EIs rather than LSE, and I've swapped my PM
starter for the new Skytec NL. WRT the "computer grade electrolytic
capacitor across the input power leads to the ignition system with a series
isolation diode", could you please furnish some actual part values and
possibly even a simple drawing for those (like me) who have four cylinder
Lycs and two EIs? I imagine that would help a lot of folks!
Thanks,
Troy Scott
tscott1217@bellsouth.net
Glasair Super IISRG, N360TS
Message 5
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| Subject: | Amnmeter remote wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
I have a Velocity with battery and all (master, starter,
alternator) relays aft by the firewall and an ammeter from Pep
boys or some place like that on the pane. I am looking to put
one of B&C's 50 mv shunts on the firewall to measure alternator
output and another on a bulkhead near the panel to measure load
to the systems. I want to wire the ammeter to these shunts
through a DPDT switch. I assume that since this is a pretty
cheap common ammeter, it is built as generic as possible. I
further assume that a 50 mv movement is the most generic type
available. I assume again that I can strip the shunt out of
this ammeter and wire it through the switch to the shunts.
That's a LOT of assumptions. I need a sanity check around: a)
my assumptions; b) if any of the assumptions are off (show
stopper), how easy is it for me to come by an affordable ammeter
movement that I could wire through the switch to the shunt(s).
I have no idea what a generic ammeter should cost or where I
would find one.
Thanks .... Jim S.
--
Jim Sower ... Destiny's Plaything
Crossville, TN; Chapter 5
Long-EZ N83RT, Velocity N4095T
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Hybrid 14/28V system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
Gianni Zuliani wrote:
> ...
> I'm planning to implement a 14V system very similar to your Z-13 schematic,
> but including the possibility to power a 28V radio....
I'd suggest you get the radio's service manual from www.esscoaircraft.com. To make it a 14V version, it may need only swapping out 28V lamps, or rewiring them for 14V, and maybe swapping/shorting a power resistor in the power supply section. Look for footnotes, "For 28V...."
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Smoke Test - problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi Bob,
I've got a head scratcher (for me anyway) on my electric pump circuit. Details
as follows:
1) Circuit (20 AWG) goes from hot side of battery > aux battery bus > 7A CB > switch
> small lamp from B&C (pump "on" warning) > pump.
2) As wired and with the switch "on", the light comes on but the pump doesn't run.
The voltage across the pump terminals shows only 0.8 volts.
3) To test the pump, I jumpered from the switch to the pump + terminal and the
pump ran.
Do you think the lamp is creating the problem or is there some other electrical
gremlin at work here?
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV3 (90% done and 90% to go)
Boise, ID
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Smoke Test - problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Hi Rick
First, I'll state an assumption... You ground the negative
side of the pump in some way? Then, a question. Are all of
these components wired in series? ie, a single wire is strung
from the switch to one side of the lamp terminal, another wire
goes from the other side of the lamp to a terminal on the pump,
and then yet another wire goes from another terminal on the pump
to ground?
If the above assumptions are correct, I'll state that only some
components can be wired as you described. There are a couple of
problems that I can see. The first is that the pump is probably
designed to see 12V across its terminals. Placing the lamp in
series, causes most of the voltage to be dropped across its terminals
(maybe 11.2V). Once that voltage is lost through the lamp, it
isn't available to the pump.
The other problem that I see is that if the bulb fails (burns open),
it will turn off the pump. Its a bad deal when the indicator can
break the circuit being monitored.
A first-step better bet would be to wire the lamp and pump in parallel.
That means that from the switch you need two wires. One goes to the
+ terminal on the pump, and the other goes to a terminal on the lamp.
Then, each component needs a ground wire to complete the circuit. One
thing to consider is that it might be possible for the lamp to fail
shorted. This would cause the breaker to blow and the pump to be
unavailable. While failing shorted is unlikely for an incandescent
bulb, its something to consider.
A way around this problem is to use a 2 pole switch and seperate
circuit protection devices (breakers). This switch is designed to
control 2 seperate circuits. Then, you could use one breaker to provide
power to the indicator, and a seperate one to provide power to the pump.
Run a wire from each breaker up to each like terminal on the switch, and
then run individual wires from the switch to the pump and lamp. That's
the way I would do it...
So, is your airplane at one of the airports around Boise? I keep my
Varieze in Nampa..
Regards,
Matt-
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson"
> <rickf@cableone.net>
>
> Hi Bob,
> I've got a head scratcher (for me anyway) on my electric pump circuit.
> Details as follows:
>
> 1) Circuit (20 AWG) goes from hot side of battery > aux battery bus > 7A
> CB > switch > small lamp from B&C (pump "on" warning) > pump.
>
> 2) As wired and with the switch "on", the light comes on but the pump
> doesn't run. The voltage across the pump terminals shows only 0.8
> volts.
>
> 3) To test the pump, I jumpered from the switch to the pump + terminal
> and the pump ran.
>
> Do you think the lamp is creating the problem or is there some other
> electrical gremlin at work here?
>
> Thanks, Rick Fogerson
> RV3 (90% done and 90% to go)
> Boise, ID
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Smoke Test - problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
The lamp is definitely causing the problem (actually how it is wired is
the problem). Since the pump normally draws much more current than the
lamp, and they are connected in series, all the voltage is dropped
across the lamp and there is none left for the pump. You need to
connect the lamp and pump in parallel (side-by-side in the circuit).
Assuming that you want the light to illuminate when the power is applied
to the pump, just connect your circuit as you have it except from the
switch split the circuit. Out of the switch, run one wire to the lamp
and another wire to the pump. The other side of the lamp and the other
side of the pump both go to ground. That way, the power goes through
your chain of connections and you have 12V for both the pump and the lamp.
Dick Tasker
Rick Fogerson wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
>Hi Bob,
>I've got a head scratcher (for me anyway) on my electric pump circuit. Details
as follows:
>
>1) Circuit (20 AWG) goes from hot side of battery > aux battery bus > 7A CB >
switch > small lamp from B&C (pump "on" warning) > pump.
>
>2) As wired and with the switch "on", the light comes on but the pump doesn't
run. The voltage across the pump terminals shows only 0.8 volts.
>
>3) To test the pump, I jumpered from the switch to the pump + terminal and the
pump ran.
>
>Do you think the lamp is creating the problem or is there some other electrical
gremlin at work here?
>
>Thanks, Rick Fogerson
>RV3 (90% done and 90% to go)
>Boise, ID
>
>
>
>
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