Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:33 AM - LSI responce from Klaus (Terry Lamp)
2. 04:36 AM - Re: Battery "jumpers" (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:14 AM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: LR3C-14 always flashes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:17 AM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:56 AM - Looking for source to purchase LED for Cessna Radio (Sperry) (David Hartley)
7. 07:29 AM - Re: Battery contact screws (John Schroeder)
8. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: Battery "jumpers" (John Schroeder)
9. 08:38 AM - Re: LR3C-14 always flashes (Dan Checkoway)
10. 08:47 AM - Re: Essential Bus Heat Sink (Ross Mickey)
11. 09:15 AM - Re: Looking for source to purchase LED for (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 10:31 AM - Stereo output (Dave von Linsowe)
13. 10:31 AM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles (James Redmon)
14. 12:03 PM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles (Trampas)
15. 12:30 PM - Filter for Garmin GPS 400 ??!? (GT)
16. 12:54 PM - Re: Filter for Garmin GPS 400 ??!? (Bruce Gray)
17. 01:10 PM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 05:18 PM - Re: Stereo output (Pat Hatch)
19. 06:53 PM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles (James Redmon)
20. 06:59 PM - Re: Stereo output (James E. Clark)
21. 07:42 PM - Re: Looking for source to purchase LED for Cessna Radio (Sperry) (Brian Kraut)
22. 07:48 PM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 09:25 PM - Re: Stereo output (Dave von Linsowe)
24. 09:27 PM - Dimming Multiple LEDs (David Schaefer)
25. 10:00 PM - Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles (James Redmon)
26. 10:20 PM - Z-16 Proposed Rearrangement (Kingsley Hurst)
27. 10:52 PM - Rotax - Grounding of Shielded Ignition Switch Wires (Kingsley Hurst)
28. 11:34 PM - Re: Stereo output (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | LSI responce from Klaus |
03/29/2004 07:30:47 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Lamp" <tlamp@genesishcs.org>
Terry,
Thanks for that, I am not a reader of these lists so this is the only way I
become
aware of some of the stuff being said out there.
If you would publish this for me regarding this issue:
All Plasma systems are extensively checked and calibrated at Light Speed
Engineering. Each system has a serial number and a calibration sheet that
is kept
here. One of the test points documented on each are min voltages. During
start the
minimum voltage to start firing needs to be >7.5v. Once the system is
running the
voltage can be reduced to 4 or 5 volts depending on rpm. This is a safety
feature
that prevents takeoff with an 8v battery which then can causes engine
stoppage
during take off.
If the battery voltage drops to below 9 volts during cranking, either your
battery
is too small or your connections to the starter need improvement or you
have one of
those starters that draw over 600 Amps when the pistons go over
compression.
This is one of the reasons why our manual insists that you connect the
systems
directly to the battery terminals. If you have 8 volts steady at the
battery and
there is some buss or diode or other switching device between the power
supply and
the Plasma CDI, the voltage can be reduced below the threshold of about 7.5
volts.
If the system does not work with a steady 8 volts or more at its connector,
there
might be a problem with it and it should be returned for testing. Again,
once it is
operating the supply voltage at the pin can go as low as 4-5volts before it
stops
firing.
Fortunately the Plasma systems do not misfire during violent voltage
swings. It
either times correctly or does not fire. This is in contrast to all other
ignition
systems I have seen.
Regards,
Klaus Savier
tlamp@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> AS copied form the Aerolectric Connection users mail list.
>
> THought you mihgt want to hear.
>
> My LSI is running great. Perhaps we'll see you at SNF in a couple of
weeks.
>
> Terry
> Long EZ N977JT
> Ohio
>
> Time: 07:56:38 AM PST US
> From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Separate start battery for Plasma III
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken Harrill
<KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> LSE ignition units work as low as 4~5 volts if memory serves, its listed
on
> their web site. If your idea of the second battery works then either the
> IGN system has a problem or you by passed the problem somewhere else.
>
> Scott,
>
> On my RV-6, the voltage (measured at the ignition module) drops to around
8
> volts with the starter engaged, and the LSE does not fire at that
voltage,
> regardless of what Klause claims.
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, 300+ hours
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Battery "jumpers" |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:26 PM 3/28/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
> > If the battery, starter and alternator are all within a few feet of
> > each other, 4AWG will generally suffice for fat wires. If battery is
> > behind seats in a tractor or in the nose of a pusher, then 2AWG wires
> > are recommended for the fat wires that carry cranking currents . . .
> > I'd stay with 4AWG battery jumpers for ease of maintenance.
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>Bob -
>
>You have used this terminology before: "Battery jumpers...". I am still
>confused about what you mean. In the context above, it would seem that the
>wire from the battery to the contactor must be a #2 - if the wire from the
>contactor to the starter is "carrying starter current". If the battery
>provides the starting current, then there ought to be # 2 from the
>battery, to the battery contactor-to the starter contactor-to the starter.
>This is what we have on our Z-14 where the batteries/battery contactors
>are about 11 feet from the firewall; where the starter contactor is
>installed.
#2 wire is needed on LONG runs to reduce voltage drops during
cranking. If #4 is okay for the cranking circuits when they're
short, it's also okay to have short segments of #4 wire in the
system for ease of maintenance. B&C offers custom battery
cables at
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?26X358218
but only in 4AWG wire. The notion was that it's important to
minimize stress on battery terminals (they're often made out
of lead). The only broken battery terminal I'm aware of had
2AWG 22759 wire bolted to it.
>The only other lead from the batteries, in our case, is the one to the
>battery bus itself. That is a # 10.
Yes, and this wire should run from battery bus to hot side
of battery contactor . . . not directly to the battery.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery |
troubles
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:14 PM 3/28/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
>
>
>Humm...well, this begs the question: Is the old 17ah battery bad, dead or
>operating normally?
>
>I was quick to dismiss the battery sucking down 65 amps (that was the peak
>before I shut it down) in charge and low capacity to turn the engine over as
>abnormal, and just labeled it- "BAD". Am I to infer from this that what the
>battery did could be labeled as normal operation of a thrashed battery? I'd
>like to learn more in this area if others would like to jump in.
With the trashed battery out of the airplane. Put your voltmeter
on it and tell us what you see . . .
>The revised plan is to procure 1 new 17ah batt. Test the capacity of the
>bat but simulating several multi-blade starts. If it performs well...I'll
>stop here. If it does not, I will add another 17ah batt in parallel for
>additional cranking power. (I do not have physical space for a single
>larger battery - but do have space for another 17ah a foot away)
>
>Listening with curious ears....
There are hundreds if not over a thousand airplanes flying
with most satisfactory performance from a single 17 a.h. battery.
Let's see what's going on with your current possession.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: LR3C-14 always flashes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:27 PM 3/28/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > The low volts setpoint is 13.0 volts. If terminal 3 has any
> > significance in this situation, it will be because it's not
> > hooked up. This is the pin that supplies lv sensing while
> > power to run the regulator and lv monitor can come from
> > either power source. I don't have the schematic in front of
> > me but I memory serves me correctly, having pin 3 disconnected
> > will produce the symptoms you're seeing.
>
>Hm. Well, terminal 3 is definitely hooked up. I get within 0.02 volts of
>main bus voltage on terminal 3. Looks good to me!
>
>I'm stumped. Gonna call B&C in the morning! Thanks Bob and everybody who
>gave me suggestions, I really appreciate it!
Very good. A talk with B&C is the next logical step.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery |
troubles
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:14 PM 3/28/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
>
>
>Humm...well, this begs the question: Is the old 17ah battery bad, dead or
>operating normally?
>
>I was quick to dismiss the battery sucking down 65 amps (that was the peak
>before I shut it down) in charge and low capacity to turn the engine over as
>abnormal, and just labeled it- "BAD". Am I to infer from this that what the
>battery did could be labeled as normal operation of a thrashed battery? I'd
>like to learn more in this area if others would like to jump in.
>
>The revised plan is to procure 1 new 17ah batt. Test the capacity of the
>bat but simulating several multi-blade starts. If it performs well...I'll
>stop here. If it does not, I will add another 17ah batt in parallel for
>additional cranking power. (I do not have physical space for a single
>larger battery - but do have space for another 17ah a foot away)
>
>Listening with curious ears....
Oh yeah, Matt suggested that the battery might have been
simply discharged . . . dead batteries DO tend to draw a
lot of current when the alternator comes on line.
If you've got a bench charger, attach it to the battery
and watch the voltage with the charger hooked up and give
us those readings too.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Looking for source to purchase LED for Cessna Radio |
(Sperry)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Hartley" <DHartley@aascworld.com>
Hello, I am looking for a source to purchase the LED that displays the frequency
digits in a Cessna Radio made by Sperry. The local avionics shop wants $100
each, and they frequently burn out, leaving the radio basically useless. I don't
know who manufactures them, but they have a "107" part mark on them, have 16
prongs, and measure about 7/16" wide by 7/8" tall . Any help on locating these
would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Battery contact screws |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Chad -
Thanks for the explanation. I see your point. Our battery "jumpers" will
probably be between 8" and 12", so #4 would be OK. We have quite a lot of
#2 welding cable, but ecen that may nor be as flexible as regular #4 .
Do Not Archive
>>> If the battery, starter and alternator are all within a few feet of
>>> each other, 4AWG will generally suffice for fat wires. If battery is
>>> behind seats in a tractor or in the nose of a pusher, then 2AWG wires
>>> are recommended for the fat wires that carry cranking currents . . .
>>> I'd stay with 4AWG battery jumpers for ease of maintenance.
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>> Bob -
>>
>> You have used this terminology before: "Battery jumpers...". I am still
>> confused about what you mean. In the context above, it would seem that
>> the wire from the battery to the contactor must be a #2 - if the wire
>> from the contactor to the starter is "carrying starter current". If the
>> battery
>> provides the starting current, then there ought to be # 2 from the
>> battery, to the battery contactor-to the starter contactor-to the
>> starter. This is what we have on our Z-14 where the batteries/battery
>> contactors are about 11 feet from the firewall; where the starter
>> contactor >> is installed.
>>
>> The only other lead from the batteries, in our case, is the one to the
>> battery bus itself. That is a # 10.
>>
>> Does this make sense? Out of all these wires, what is the "battery
>> jumper"?
>
> I believe Bob means the cable from the battery to the contactor. Bob has
> previously recommended taking the battery bus feed from the battery
> input side
> of the battery contactor, rather than adding a second terminal to the
> battery
> itself. Battery terminals are soft and can corrode and have other bad
> things
> happen, and this way at maintenance time you're only removing/attaching a
> single cable.
>
> Current carrying capacity is only one factor in conductor sizing. A #6
> cable
> could carry this current. It's just that for a long run the resistance
> is such
> that a lot of power would be dissipated in the cable itself, so there
> would be
> a voltage drop that would affect starting performance. But for a 9" run
> from
> the battery to a contactor a 4AWG wire is fine. This is only relevant
> for the
> long run from instrument panel to firewall if I plan to put my batteries
> up
> front (as I am seriously considering doing).
>
> The difference between 4AWG and 2AWG is miniscule for a 9" run (0.000069
> ohms), but more significant for the long run back to the engine (0.00097
> ohms
> for a 15 foot run), so Bob is recommmending that I make this longer
> piece out
> of 2AWG. But since 4AWG is more flexible it makes a better battery
> jumper.
> Both cables can carry the required current, so 4AWG throughout is fine
> if your
> engine is only a foot away from your battery.
>
> Regards,
> Chad
>
>
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Battery "jumpers" |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
> #2 wire is needed on LONG runs to reduce voltage drops during
> cranking. If #4 is okay for the cranking circuits when they're
> short, it's also okay to have short segments of #4 wire in the
> system for ease of maintenance. B&C offers custom battery
> cables at
>
> http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?26X358218
>
> but only in 4AWG wire. The notion was that it's important to
> minimize stress on battery terminals (they're often made out
> of lead). The only broken battery terminal I'm aware of had
> 2AWG 22759 wire bolted to it.
Got it. Will look into the B&C stuff. Gotta give them some big-bucks order
in a few days, so a cable or 3 can be added thereto.
>
>
>> The only other lead from the batteries, in our case, is the one to the
>> battery bus itself. That is a # 10.
>
> Yes, and this wire should run from battery bus to hot side
> of battery contactor . . . not directly to the battery.
That is the way we have in the wire book.
--
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: LR3C-14 always flashes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Very good. A talk with B&C is the next logical step.
Just to follow up here on-list, in case anybody bumps into this problem in
the future...
Spoke with B&C and they said it sounds like the warning light circuit is
just shorted. Repairable, and I'm sending the unit to B&C today.
Thanks again,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Essential Bus Heat Sink |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Just so I am clear on this discussion. It is my understanding that the
diode is not the problem, it is the regulator. What Tim at B&C told me
was that because this is a PM alternator, the regulator generates a lot
of heat.
Ross
> -----Original Message-----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>
> Well, last I checked power=volts * amps. Therefore the diode
> we will assume
> is a Schottky, with low voltage drop, let's assume 0.5 Volt.
> Then you said
> you have 10Amps, so .5*10=5Watts. 5 Watts will generate some
> heat in an
> enclosed box, however having the diode mounted such that it
> is open to the
> air should be enough to keep it cool. A good way to check it
> is to connect
> it up and turn every thing on and lightly touch it, if it is
> really hot then
> put heat sink on it.
>
> Regards,
> Trampas
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for source to purchase LED for |
Cessna Radio (Sperry)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:55 AM 3/29/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Hartley"
><DHartley@aascworld.com>
>
>Hello, I am looking for a source to purchase the LED that displays the
>frequency digits in a Cessna Radio made by Sperry. The local avionics shop
>wants $100 each, and they frequently burn out, leaving the radio basically
>useless. I don't know who manufactures them, but they have a "107" part
>mark on them, have 16 prongs, and measure about 7/16" wide by 7/8" tall .
>Any help on locating these would be appreciated. Thanks.
I'm sorry, I have no familiarity with this product.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Hi guys,
I'm upgrading the AM FM CD player in my RV-6 and ran into something that caught
me off guard.
The original stereo was setup with the output shielded from inside the case. The
new stereo has no provision for doing that. Old stereo was a Eclipse and a
Flight come 403 intercom. The new setup is JVC stereo and a DRE-244e intercom.
The question: Is it necessary to shield the output from the stereo to the intercom?
If it necessary to shield it, can I start the shielding from the stereo
at the stereo harness?
Thanks for your help,
Dave
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
Here are the results for the 17ah battery that would not turn the motor over
during start attempts:
Measured today - temp 65-degrees - Using a 1amp "Battery Minder" charger:
Standing voltage: 12.85v
Charging volts: 13.09v (charger seemed to increase voltage until reaching a
peak, then dropped to this)
Measured yesterday after engine run attempts with booster: (using 10amp
automobile charger) - 75-degrees
standing voltage 12.2v
charging voltage 13.8v - but pulled about 15amps on the charger meter
Thoughts?
-James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Help please - (possible) alt/battery
troubles
> Oh yeah, Matt suggested that the battery might have been
> simply discharged . . . dead batteries DO tend to draw a
> lot of current when the alternator comes on line.
>
> If you've got a bench charger, attach it to the battery
> and watch the voltage with the charger hooked up and give
> us those readings too.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
The whole thing with a battery is that knowing the voltage does not
correlate to knowing the condition of battery. If you know the battery is in
good condition, the voltage does correlates to the charge level of the
battery, but if the battery is not in a good condition then all bets are
off.
Here is a nice little tip, take a headlight from a car and connect across a
charged battery and while the load is connected measure the voltage. This
will put a load on the battery and then the voltage will be more valuable
for determining if the battery is good.
I am betting that you have a cell on your battery which is shorted. The
battery will charge up and read 12V standing as the battery will act like a
capacitor, however the moment you put a load on the battery the voltage will
drop to 10V or below. Plus since the cell is shorted the alternator and/or
battery charger will always think the battery is not fully charged and put
lots of current into battery trying to charge it.
Regards,
Trampas
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James
Redmon
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Help please - (possible) alt/battery
troubles
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
Here are the results for the 17ah battery that would not turn the motor over
during start attempts:
Measured today - temp 65-degrees - Using a 1amp "Battery Minder" charger:
Standing voltage: 12.85v
Charging volts: 13.09v (charger seemed to increase voltage until reaching a
peak, then dropped to this)
Measured yesterday after engine run attempts with booster: (using 10amp
automobile charger) - 75-degrees
standing voltage 12.2v
charging voltage 13.8v - but pulled about 15amps on the charger meter
Thoughts?
-James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Help please - (possible) alt/battery
troubles
> Oh yeah, Matt suggested that the battery might have been
> simply discharged . . . dead batteries DO tend to draw a
> lot of current when the alternator comes on line.
>
> If you've got a bench charger, attach it to the battery
> and watch the voltage with the charger hooked up and give
> us those readings too.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Filter for Garmin GPS 400 ??!? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GT" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
My friend Igor was tinkering with the intercooler ducts when a radio
technician went into the hangar and had a look at our project. He said in
case of interference between the GPS receiver and the VHF, Garmin advises to
install some "nudge"(?!) filter at the rear of the receiver.
I was not present so I was unable to ask more precise questions.
Is it possible he was talking of a NOTCH filter to be intalles on the
TRANSCEIVER antenna, as specified in the GPS intallation manual ?
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 16
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| Subject: | Filter for Garmin GPS 400 ??!? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Yes, he's talking about the notch filter.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GT
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Filter for Garmin GPS 400 ??!?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GT"
<Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
My friend Igor was tinkering with the intercooler ducts when a radio
technician went into the hangar and had a look at our project. He said
in
case of interference between the GPS receiver and the VHF, Garmin
advises to
install some "nudge"(?!) filter at the rear of the receiver.
I was not present so I was unable to ask more precise questions.
Is it possible he was talking of a NOTCH filter to be intalles on the
TRANSCEIVER antenna, as specified in the GPS intallation manual ?
Thanks,
Gilles
==
==
==
==
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery |
troubles
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:20 PM 3/29/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
>
>Here are the results for the 17ah battery that would not turn the motor over
>during start attempts:
>
>Measured today - temp 65-degrees - Using a 1amp "Battery Minder" charger:
>Standing voltage: 12.85v
>Charging volts: 13.09v (charger seemed to increase voltage until reaching a
>peak, then dropped to this)
>
>Measured yesterday after engine run attempts with booster: (using 10amp
>automobile charger) - 75-degrees
>standing voltage 12.2v
>charging voltage 13.8v - but pulled about 15amps on the charger meter
If it's accepting 15A at 13.8 volts at the terminals, then the
battery IS in a state of discharge. I'd recommend you leave the
batteryminder
on it over night and then repeat your earlier test.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo output |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Dave,
Try it unshielded, mine is...I doubt if it needs to be. Mine has a couple
of banana plugs from the back of the stereo to the audio panel.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Stereo output
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe"
<davevon@tir.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm upgrading the AM FM CD player in my RV-6 and ran into something that
caught me off guard.
>
> The original stereo was setup with the output shielded from inside the
case. The new stereo has no provision for doing that. Old stereo was a
Eclipse and a Flight come 403 intercom. The new setup is JVC stereo and a
DRE-244e intercom.
>
> The question: Is it necessary to shield the output from the stereo to the
intercom? If it necessary to shield it, can I start the shielding from the
stereo at the stereo harness?
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
> If it's accepting 15A at 13.8 volts at the terminals, then the
> battery IS in a state of discharge. I'd recommend you leave the
> batteryminder
> on it over night and then repeat your earlier test.
OK, I charged the 17ah battery all day...now the Battery Minder has a
blinking light (means it is charged).
Reminder: Canard pusher Z-12 design with PM starter (SkyTek), new high
compression IO-360, aft mounted battery/relays/starter, .3 ohms from batt
ground terminal to all points on the engine, all wired with #4 and #2 wire.
I first tested the cranking ability of the big 26ah Panasonic battery with
the following results: (measured with Fluke digital on battery terminals)
12.5v starting charge - static
12.3v with master on - minimal consumption
9.5v when starter engaged and turning
Note: turns engine over easily, at least 10 blades, four tries, still has
more to go.
7.2v when starter engaged after multiple tries but prop no longer turning
12.2v after flogging with master off
Immediate attempt to charge - registers 12 amps at 13.3v on automotive
charger.
Next, I tested the cranking ability of the freshly charged 17ah Panasonic
battery with the following results: (measured with Fluke digital on battery
terminals)
12.9v starting charge - static
12.6v with master on - minimal consumption
6.1v when starter engaged and (barely) turning
Note: barely turns engine over, get 2 blades then prop stops, two more
tries, will no longer turn prop.
12.3v after flogging with master off
Immediate attempt to charge - registers 15amps @ 13.6v on automotive
charger.
OK, you gurus...tell me what the heck is going on?!?!?
Still stumped...
-James
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I think I just took the stereo output of our Sony AM/FM/CD (via RCA jacks)
to the input of our DRE-244e.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave
> von Linsowe
> Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 1:38 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Stereo output
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe"
> <davevon@tir.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm upgrading the AM FM CD player in my RV-6 and ran into
> something that caught me off guard.
>
> The original stereo was setup with the output shielded from
> inside the case. The new stereo has no provision for doing that.
> Old stereo was a Eclipse and a Flight come 403 intercom. The
> new setup is JVC stereo and a DRE-244e intercom.
>
> The question: Is it necessary to shield the output from the
> stereo to the intercom? If it necessary to shield it, can I
> start the shielding from the stereo at the stereo harness?
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Looking for source to purchase LED for Cessna Radio |
(Sperry)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
LED displays are fairly standard so you should be able to find one that will
work. I assume that the 107 is a Cessna part number that they stamped on
some display they bought from another manufacturer that may or may not still
exist.
Displays are either common annode (one common + pin and the rest of the
pins - for each segment) or common cathode (one common - pin and the rest +
for each segment). They are "usually" a standard pin configuration. You
should be able to find the same size and configuration from another
manufacturer. I assume that being 16 pins it is a two digit display with
either one or no decimal points.
If you measure accross the pins with a meter you should be able to figure
out which pin is common, if it is common cathode or anode and which pins go
to what segments. A sure fire way to get it down is to remove the display
and light the segments with a 9V battery and a 2K resistor.
I did a quick search in a few catalogs and didn't see one like you need, but
if you do some web searching using keywords optoelectronic LED seven segment
display you will find a bunch of manufacturers. Happy hunting! If you find
something that will work you will probably want to replace them all to keep
the exact same color and brightness.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
Hartley
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Looking for source to purchase LED for
Cessna Radio (Sperry)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Hartley"
<DHartley@aascworld.com>
Hello, I am looking for a source to purchase the LED that displays the
frequency digits in a Cessna Radio made by Sperry. The local avionics shop
wants $100 each, and they frequently burn out, leaving the radio basically
useless. I don't know who manufactures them, but they have a "107" part mark
on them, have 16 prongs, and measure about 7/16" wide by 7/8" tall . Any
help on locating these would be appreciated. Thanks.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: If you have received this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by e-mail at the address shown. This e-mail
transmission may contain confidential information. This information is
intended only for the use of the individual(s) or entity to whom it is
intended even if addressed incorrectly. Please delete it from your files if
you are not the intended recipient. Thank you for your compliance
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery |
troubles
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:54 PM 3/29/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
>
> > If it's accepting 15A at 13.8 volts at the terminals, then the
> > battery IS in a state of discharge. I'd recommend you leave the
> > batteryminder
> > on it over night and then repeat your earlier test.
>
>OK, I charged the 17ah battery all day...now the Battery Minder has a
>blinking light (means it is charged).
>
>Reminder: Canard pusher Z-12 design with PM starter (SkyTek), new high
>compression IO-360, aft mounted battery/relays/starter, .3 ohms from batt
>ground terminal to all points on the engine, all wired with #4 and #2 wire.
>
>I first tested the cranking ability of the big 26ah Panasonic battery with
>the following results: (measured with Fluke digital on battery terminals)
>12.5v starting charge - static
>12.3v with master on - minimal consumption
>9.5v when starter engaged and turning
>Note: turns engine over easily, at least 10 blades, four tries, still has
>more to go.
>7.2v when starter engaged after multiple tries but prop no longer turning
>12.2v after flogging with master off
>
>Immediate attempt to charge - registers 12 amps at 13.3v on automotive
>charger.
>
>Next, I tested the cranking ability of the freshly charged 17ah Panasonic
>battery with the following results: (measured with Fluke digital on battery
>terminals)
>12.9v starting charge - static
>12.6v with master on - minimal consumption
>6.1v when starter engaged and (barely) turning
>Note: barely turns engine over, get 2 blades then prop stops, two more
>tries, will no longer turn prop.
>12.3v after flogging with master off
>
>Immediate attempt to charge - registers 15amps @ 13.6v on automotive
>charger.
>
>OK, you gurus...tell me what the heck is going on?!?!?
The Panasonic is probably bad. They test here at 300 to 400A
for 9 volts at the terminals.
Bob . . .
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo output |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
I had originally intended to use the RCA jacks which are the "line out" intended
for use with an amplifier, but the tech at DRE told me to use the speaker lines
to get enough volume.
So has there been any issue with having enough volume?
Thanks,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: James E. Clark
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 9:59 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Stereo output
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I think I just took the stereo output of our Sony AM/FM/CD (via RCA jacks)
to the input of our DRE-244e.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave
> von Linsowe
> Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 1:38 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Stereo output
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe"
> <davevon@tir.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm upgrading the AM FM CD player in my RV-6 and ran into
> something that caught me off guard.
>
> The original stereo was setup with the output shielded from
> inside the case. The new stereo has no provision for doing that.
> Old stereo was a Eclipse and a Flight come 403 intercom. The
> new setup is JVC stereo and a DRE-244e intercom.
>
> The question: Is it necessary to shield the output from the
> stereo to the intercom? If it necessary to shield it, can I
> start the shielding from the stereo at the stereo harness?
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Dimming Multiple LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
BOB ..I have several LEDs as warning lamps for various devices (primary,
secondary alt failure etc.) How can I attach these devices to my dimming bus
(B&C dimmer) so I can dim them?
Thanks..
David Schaefer
RV6-A
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - (possible) alt/battery troubles |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
I ordered a new 17ah Panasonic and it is on the way. I'll compare the two
batteries (new and old) and post the results.
do not archive
Thanks,
James Redmon
Berkut #013 N97TX
http://www.berkut13.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Help please - (possible) alt/battery
troubles
> The Panasonic is probably bad. They test here at 300 to 400A
> for 9 volts at the terminals.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 26
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| Subject: | Z-16 Proposed Rearrangement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
Bob et.al.
I have a Rotax 912 and I thought (Z-16 as is) was ideal for my purpose
until I did a load analysis which threw me into a quandary.
I found that I was left with only two items on the Main Bus and
everything else was on the Endurance Bus (nee Essential Bus) and it
seemed to me to be a bit of a misnomer to call a bus the Main Bus with
only two items on it. I also have an electric trim which ideally should
be fed directly from the battery.
I am therefore contemplating changing the Endurance Bus to a Battery Bus
(for the trim + a couple of other items) to be connected as per Z-16 but
without the alternate feed switch and putting everything else on the
Main Bus. To accommodate failure of the main contactor (ie to provide
an alternate feed to the Main Bus), I am proposing a three or four pole,
double throw switch (30VDC 20A contacts) be connected between the
battery side of the main contactor and the Main Bus ie in parallel with
the main contactor using the normally open contacts of two or three
poles of this switch for this purpose. The only problem I can see is
that when this switch is turned on, there is now a current path
available through it for the starter contactor. To prohibit this, I am
proposing to put the normally closed side of one of the poles of the
same switch in series with the Starter Switch circuit to the starter
contactor. The diode between the Main Bus and the Endurance Bus on Z-16
would no longer be necessary.
Caveat - all items on the Main Bus will be controlled by their own
on/off switches for load shedding purposes.
My question:- Is this idea sound or is there something glaringly wrong
with this proposition?
Thank you in anticipation.
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Builder in Oz.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Rotax - Grounding of Shielded Ignition Switch Wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
Bob,
Rotax stipulate that the shielding of the wires to the ignition switches
should be grounded at BOTH ends.
I would really like to wire mine as per Z-16 so am trying to convince
myself that by virtue of making these shields common at the ignition
switches like you do, they are in fact grounded at both ends.
Is this correct?
Many thanks
Kingsley Hurst
Europa builder in Oz
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo output |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I used the speaker level outs on my Pioneer/ DRE244 combo, volume is
just fine.
Jeff Point
Dave von Linsowe wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>
>I had originally intended to use the RCA jacks which are the "line out" intended
for use with an amplifier, but the tech at DRE told me to use the speaker lines
to get enough volume.
>
>So has there been any issue with having enough volume?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave
>
>
>
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