Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:58 AM - Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights (Brian Lloyd)
2. 02:08 AM - Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights (Brian Lloyd)
3. 02:08 AM - Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights (James Foerster)
4. 05:30 AM - Re: Wire crimp crushing (Neil Clayton)
5. 07:19 AM - Re: Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights (John Schroeder)
6. 07:45 AM - Re: Wire crimp crushing (Brian Lloyd)
7. 09:25 AM - Re: CCFL lamps (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
8. 04:39 PM - trim motor braking (Troy Scott)
9. 05:00 PM - RG Batteries Where to buy online? (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
10. 05:12 PM - Re: trim motor braking (Richard E. Tasker)
11. 07:22 PM - wire labels (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
12. 09:36 PM - Re: RG Batteries Where to buy online? (Joel Harding)
13. 10:15 PM - RG Battery CCA ? (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
John Schroeder wrote:
> We are looking for a good source of inexpensive EL strips to use for under
> the glare shield for panel flood lighting.
>
> Any info would be appreciated on either product. Also a good source for EL
> strips.
I don't know where you can get the raw strips but I did install two from Aero Enhancements (http://www.aeroenhance.com/) under the eyebrow for my instrument panel on my CJ6A. It was wonderful for flood-lighting the panel and the color closely matched the florescent paint on the stock instruments. (the CJ6A normally uses a pair of UV spotlights to cause the instruments to glow yellow-green.)
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Brian Lloyd wrote:
> from Aero Enhancements (http://www.aeroenhance.com/) under the
Turns out that URL is no longer valid but I did find this one:
http://www.aircraftextras.com/EL-Panel1.htm
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster" <jmfpublic@comcast.net>
John,
For a cheap source of EL strips, check out All Electronics at http://www.allelectronics.com/ They have 1"by 12" EL strips for $6.00 each. I have found that the DB25 style gold plated pins fit the connector, which is fragile. The same company carries DC to AC inverters, but I did not find it today with a brief search. I decided against EL lighting, because of the need for an inverter, and thus less reliability compared to LED sources. LED sources are getting very efficient, and for my map light aimed at the lap, I will be using Luxeon Stars, which run $12 to $14, and can be had in white, red, and other colors, with and without an epoxy lens. With the lens, the unit is 1" square, and draws one watt. This works out to 350 ma at about 3 volts, so you need a 30 ohm resistor if you want to run only one from the 14 volt battery. This also works well with a dimmer.
Jim Foerster
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wire crimp crushing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Sorry....I described it poorly. I meant this; A PIDG terminal consists of a
crushable tube with a seam running along it axially, plus the tab.
When I use an el-cheapo crimping tool I get all sorts of odd crimped
shapes. Sometimes one side if the seam rides up over the other. Sometimes
the seam actually separates, creating two minitubes, each with a few
strands of wire in them. And they're the better results! Is it 'cos I'm
using an e-cheapo tool? I'm sure there some published standard as to what a
finished crimp should look like.
Neil
At 10:53 PM 4/25/2004, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 04:51 PM 4/25/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton
> <harvey4@earthlink.net>
> >
> >What's the accepted method to crush a crimp relative to the axial joint?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Neil
>
> I'm mystified . . . If you're talking about crimp tools for
> terminals on the ends of wires, see:
>
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bnccrimp.pdf
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/multiplewires/multiplewires.html
>
> Bob . . .
>
> -----------------------------------------
> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> -----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Jim -
We also want to have a couple of map lights and are looking at some boat
chart lights. As always, the boat stuff is pricey - sometimes more than
aircraft equipment (solid brass, stainless steel ... )
Did you buy the light with the LED already installed?
Or did you modify a fixture?
Is it a gooseneck? and How long?
Sources?
Many thanks for the EL info. I'll check it out.
Cheers,
John
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wire crimp crushing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Neil Clayton wrote:
> shapes. Sometimes one side if the seam rides up over the other. Sometimes
> the seam actually separates, creating two minitubes, each with a few
> strands of wire in them. And they're the better results! Is it 'cos I'm
> using an e-cheapo tool?
Yes. Buy a decent crimper from Bob. His price is right and the tool works well.
Not only have I rewired a couple of airplanes but I am in the middle of rewiring
a rather large boat. A good crimp tool is worth its weight in gold.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 7
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04/26/2004 12:24:43 PM,
Serialize complete at 04/26/2004 12:24:43 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Before you commit to CCFL lighting, you
might want to investigate the RFI associated
with them and the required inverter.
Ira N224XS
Message 8
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| Subject: | trim motor braking |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott" <tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
Gentlemen,
I've modified an electric elevator trim scheme (originally designed by Jim
Dutton) and installed it in my Glasair. I'm utilizing a DC reversible
linear actuator to operate a bellcrank, much like the stock
Stoddard-Hamilton design. It seems to work very well, meaning that it
imparts the same range of forces to the trim springs that the original
manual trim mechanism did. The airplane hasn't yet flown, but I see no
reason why it won't be fine. I notice one area that could be improved: The
motor doesn't stop instantly when the current is cut off. It "coasts"
briefly. I know there is an electrical way to make the motor stop quickly
when the current goes off, but I don't yet have any experience in this area.
I've read about "magnetic braking" and "DC motor braking", but I'm not sure
how to implement this feature. Suggestions?
Regards,
Troy Scott
Glasair Super IISRG, N360TS
tscott1217@bellsouth.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | RG Batteries Where to buy online? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
I would like to ask the group where you might recommend to purchase a RG
battery online. I am looking to replace an existing PowerSonic PS-12180 NB
battery.
Thanks, Mike
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: trim motor braking |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
You just have to set it up so the motor is shorted when it is off. I
don't know how you are controlling it or I could be more specific.
Here are several trim circuits that Bob posted recently:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/PitchTrim.pdf
Note that in all cases when everything is off, the trim motor is shorted.
Dick Tasker
Troy Scott wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott" <tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
>
>Gentlemen,
>
>I've modified an electric elevator trim scheme (originally designed by Jim
>Dutton) and installed it in my Glasair. I'm utilizing a DC reversible
>linear actuator to operate a bellcrank, much like the stock
>Stoddard-Hamilton design. It seems to work very well, meaning that it
>imparts the same range of forces to the trim springs that the original
>manual trim mechanism did. The airplane hasn't yet flown, but I see no
>reason why it won't be fine. I notice one area that could be improved: The
>motor doesn't stop instantly when the current is cut off. It "coasts"
>briefly. I know there is an electrical way to make the motor stop quickly
>when the current goes off, but I don't yet have any experience in this area.
>I've read about "magnetic braking" and "DC motor braking", but I'm not sure
>how to implement this feature. Suggestions?
>
>Regards,
>Troy Scott
>Glasair Super IISRG, N360TS
>tscott1217@bellsouth.net
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: Neil Clayton
<harvey4@earthlink.net>
<<As I start to install my electrical system, I want to label wires at each
end.
What is a good labelling system?Thanks Neil>>
4/26/2004
Hello Neil, There are many different ways to skin this cat. Here is one of
the simplest and cheapest -- very durable.
1) Print labels on plain printer paper in small type (or to suit wire
diameter) with either Microsoft Word or Excel. You can copy and paste to generate
many dozens of labels on one sheet of paper.
2) Cut the labels off the sheet one at a time with a scissors as you need
them. Two line labels work best for me.
3) Crimp roll the cut off label a bit along their length around a round
toothpick or piece of wire.
4) Cut off a piece of clear shrink tube about a 1/4 -- 3/8 inch longer on
each end than the length of the label. Choose a size of shrink tube that will
squeeze down tight on the wire when heated.
5) Stuff the cut off and curled label into the shrink tube -- a straightened
out large size paper clip (or other poking tool) can be used to center the
label lengthwise in the piece of shrink tube.
(Actually I normally cut off the piece of shrink tube before I cut the label
off so that once I cut the label off the large paper sheet I can curl the
label and stuff it in the tube without ever setting the teeny label down).
6) Slide the shrink tube with the label curled inside into position on the
wire -- preferably before you crimp on the terminal unless you just want
practice in cutting off and replacing terminals.
7) Heat the shrink tube with a heat gun. Admire. Move on to the next label
needed. Pretty soon you realize that you can set up several labels and shrink
them all with one heating of the heat gun.
A tip: If you are using multiple wire connectors like AMP Mate-n-Lock or
similar consider positioning the labels at different places along the various
wires so that you don't wind up with all the shrink tubes clumped together.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - 11/17/03
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RG Batteries Where to buy online? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
Digikey has good prices on Panasonic batteries. Take a look at this
page for a 17Ah. They're only$ 23.70 if you order 160 of them, but
$34.56 isn't bad either if you just want one.
Joel Harding
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Criteria?
Ref=258389&Site=US&Cat=30147394
On Apr 26, 2004, at 5:59 PM, ALWAYSPDG@aol.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>
> I would like to ask the group where you might recommend to purchase a
> RG
> battery online. I am looking to replace an existing PowerSonic
> PS-12180 NB
> battery.
>
>
> Thanks, Mike
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | RG Battery CCA ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
One more question. How do you determine the CCA on a PowerSonic 12 volt, 18
Ah battery? The P/N is Ps-12180.
Thanks, Mike
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