Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:20 AM - Re: wire labels (Jack Lockamy)
     2. 12:55 AM - Re: RG Battery CCA ? (Brian Lloyd)
     3. 03:47 AM - Re: RG Batteries Where to buy online? (Sam Hoskins)
     4. 04:14 AM - Re: wire labels (Harley)
     5. 04:41 AM - Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights (Dave Durakovich)
     6. 05:13 AM - Re: RG Battery CCA ? (Bill Maxwell)
     7. 06:14 AM - Re: RG Battery CCA ? (Brian Lloyd)
     8. 09:59 AM - Trim speed control (Jim Stone)
     9. 10:18 AM - Re: Trim speed control (Charlie Kuss)
    10. 10:27 AM - Kroy 3000 pricing (Charlie Kuss)
    11. 11:33 AM - Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Winston Ellis)
    12. 11:57 AM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (N67BT@aol.com)
    13. 12:06 PM - Re: Trim speed control (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
    14. 12:13 PM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing (Jim Stone)
    15. 12:44 PM - Re: Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights (John Schroeder)
    16. 01:16 PM - Visio Symbols (Werner Schneider)
    17. 02:08 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Terry Watson)
    18. 02:31 PM - Re: Visio Symbols (Chad Robinson)
    19. 02:42 PM - Re: Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights (echristley@nc.rr.com)
    20. 03:15 PM - Re: Trim speed control (Robert McCallum)
    21. 03:21 PM - Re: Visio Symbols (Werner Schneider)
    22. 03:32 PM - Re: electric trim switches (Charlie Kuss)
    23. 05:22 PM - Re: Re: Kroy 3000 pricing ()
    24. 05:32 PM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing (John Schroeder)
    25. 06:33 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
    26. 06:40 PM - Re: Manual Battery Contactor (Bob Miller)
    27. 06:43 PM - Re: Wire labels (Larry Colley)
    28. 07:03 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Trampas)
    29. 07:35 PM - Re: RG Batteries Where to buy online? (Jim Stone)
    30. 08:33 PM - Odyssey Batteries on eBay (Scott & Leere' Aldrich)
    31. 08:35 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Winston Ellis)
    32. 08:43 PM - Re: RG Batteries Where to buy online? (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
    33. 10:40 PM - Re: Wire labels (David Schaefer)
    34. 11:01 PM - RG batteries where to buy online (Troy Scott)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
      
      Save yourself a lot of extra work and hassle.... get yourself a Kroy TM-600 Shrink
      Tube Printer!  Label your wires easily and when your wiring is complete, sell
      the thing on E-Bay.
      
      I got one on E-Bay for $60 (with the shrink tube supplies).   Laser quality printer
      will print letters/numeric directly on the shrink tube (1/8", 3/16", and
      1/4" tubing). 
      
      No fuss, no muss.  I will be selling mine very soon now that my wiring is complete.
      
      Only way to go....
      
      Jack Lockamy
      Camarillo, CA
      RV-7A
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: RG Battery CCA ? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
      
      ALWAYSPDG@aol.com wrote:
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
      > 
      > One more question. How do you determine the CCA on a PowerSonic 12 volt, 18 
      > Ah battery? The P/N is Ps-12180.
      
      Are you guys sure that the Powersonic batteries are AGM and not Gel-Cells?  Both
      are sealed but behave very differently and require different charging regimens.
      AGMs have much lower internal resistance which means less voltage sag under
      heavy loads which makes them good for starting.  Gells will produce more charge/discharge
      cycles for deep discharges when properly charged than will AGM
      which makes them good for battery power for your avionics should the alternator
      fail.  They require different absorption and float voltages during charging.
      AGMs can be charged without too much trouble using the same voltages as used
      for flooded-cell lead-acid batteries.
      
      BTW, some of the best information about battery type and charging can be found
      at: 
      
      http://www.amplepower.com/
      
      This site is to boaters and RV-ers (the rolling kind) what the Aeroelectric Connection
      is to airplane builders.
      
      -- 
      Brian Lloyd                         6501 Red Hook Plaza
      brianl@lloyd.com                    Suite 201
      http://www.lloyd.com                St. Thomas, VI 00802
      +1.340.998.9447 (voice)             +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
      
      There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.  
      A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises. 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | RG Batteries Where to buy online? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@mchsi.com>
      
      Go to www.froogle.com and put the part number you are looking for in the
      search window.  It works great!
      
      Sam
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joel
      Harding
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RG Batteries Where to buy online?
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
      
        Digikey has good prices on Panasonic batteries.  Take a look at this  
      page for a 17Ah.  They're only$ 23.70 if you order 160 of them, but  
      $34.56 isn't bad either if you just want one.
      
      Joel Harding
      
      
      http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Criteria? 
      Ref=258389&Site=US&Cat=30147394
      
      
      On Apr 26, 2004, at 5:59 PM, ALWAYSPDG@aol.com wrote:
      
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
      >
      > I would like to ask the group where you might recommend to purchase a  
      > RG
      > battery online.  I am looking to replace an existing PowerSonic  
      > PS-12180 NB
      > battery.
      >
      >
      > Thanks, Mike
      >
      >
      > _- 
      > ======================================================================= 
      > _- 
      > ======================================================================= 
      > _- 
      > ======================================================================= 
      > _- 
      > ======================================================================= 
      > >
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
      
      I just thought of an additional step that could make the whole job a bit 
      easier. 
      
      I print a lot of labels for shipping my model plans sets.  I often ship 
      by priority mail, and pick up the free Priority mail labels from the 
      post office. 
      
      They have a sticky back...so, on a hunch, I cut one to wire label size, 
      peeled the back off and stuck it around the insulation on a wire I have 
      sitting here (my trackball cable!<G> About the same size as an insulated 
      20 gauge wire). 
      
      It sticks great! 
      
      So, to keep it in place while you cut and install the shrink tubing, I 
      would suggest printing on these free labels, then cutting off what you 
      need.  They hold very well on the wire until you get the clear shrink 
      tubing over them...in fact, I just tried to take it off, and it tore in 
      little pieces trying.
      
      If you don't want to bankrupt the post office by taking home their free 
      labels, you can buy the label stock with the sticky backs at office 
      supplies stores...they come in various sizes...the sheets I use from 
      Office Depot are letter size, and very bright white printing surface.  
      Make for very high contrast printing.
      
      Harley Dixon
      
      
      BAKEROCB@aol.com wrote:
      
      >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
      >
      > AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: Neil Clayton 
      ><harvey4@earthlink.net>
      >
      ><<As I start to install my electrical system, I want to label wires at each 
      >end.
      >What is a good labelling system?Thanks Neil>>
      >
      >4/26/2004
      >
      >Hello Neil, There are many different ways to skin this cat. Here is one of 
      >the simplest and cheapest -- very durable.
      >
      >1) Print labels on plain printer paper in small type (or to suit wire 
      >diameter) with either Microsoft Word or Excel. You can copy and paste to generate
      
      >many dozens of labels on one sheet of paper.
      >
      >2) Cut the labels off the sheet one at a time with a scissors as you need 
      >them. Two line labels work best for me.
      >
      >3) Crimp roll the cut off label a bit along their length around a round 
      >toothpick or piece of wire.
      >
      >4) Cut off a piece of clear shrink tube about a 1/4 -- 3/8 inch longer on 
      >each end than the length of the label. Choose a size of shrink tube that will
      
      >squeeze down tight on the wire when heated. 
      >
      >5) Stuff the cut off and curled label into the shrink tube -- a straightened 
      >out large size paper clip (or other poking tool) can be used to center the 
      >label lengthwise in the piece of shrink tube. 
      >
      >(Actually I normally cut off the piece of shrink tube before I cut the label 
      >off so that once I cut the label off the large paper sheet I can curl the 
      >label and stuff it in the tube without ever setting the teeny label down).
      >
      >6) Slide the shrink tube with the label curled inside into position on the 
      >wire -- preferably before you crimp on the terminal unless you just want 
      >practice in cutting off and replacing terminals.
      >
      >7) Heat the shrink tube with a heat gun. Admire. Move on to the next label 
      >needed. Pretty soon you realize that you can set up several labels and shrink
      
      >them all with one heating of the heat gun.
      >
      >A tip: If you are using multiple wire connectors like AMP Mate-n-Lock or 
      >similar consider positioning the labels at different places along the various
      
      >wires so that you don't wind up with all the shrink tubes clumped together.
      >
      >'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - 11/17/03
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich@yahoo.com>
      
      Try these guys:  www.glowire.com
      
      The 4 LED cluster is truly awesome! Runs directly off of 12V too. 
      
                      
      ---------------------------------
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: RG Battery CCA ? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Maxwell" <wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
      
      Ah, so maybe Gells and RG cells are not the same thing?
      Bill
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Brian Lloyd" <brianl@lloyd.com>
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RG Battery CCA ?
      
      
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
      >
      > ALWAYSPDG@aol.com wrote:
      > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
      > >
      > > One more question. How do you determine the CCA on a PowerSonic 12 volt,
      18
      > > Ah battery? The P/N is Ps-12180.
      >
      > Are you guys sure that the Powersonic batteries are AGM and not Gel-Cells?
      Both are sealed but behave very differently and require different charging
      regimens.  AGMs have much lower internal resistance which means less voltage
      sag under heavy loads which makes them good for starting.  Gells will
      produce more charge/discharge cycles for deep discharges when properly
      charged than will AGM which makes them good for battery power for your
      avionics should the alternator fail.  They require different absorption and
      float voltages during charging.  AGMs can be charged without too much
      trouble using the same voltages as used for flooded-cell lead-acid
      batteries.
      >
      > BTW, some of the best information about battery type and charging can be
      found at:
      >
      > http://www.amplepower.com/
      >
      > This site is to boaters and RV-ers (the rolling kind) what the
      Aeroelectric Connection is to airplane builders.
      >
      > --
      > Brian Lloyd                         6501 Red Hook Plaza
      > brianl@lloyd.com                    Suite 201
      > http://www.lloyd.com                St. Thomas, VI 00802
      > +1.340.998.9447 (voice)             +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
      >
      > There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
      > A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: RG Battery CCA ? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
      
      Bill Maxwell wrote:
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Maxwell" <wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
      > 
      > Ah, so maybe Gells and RG cells are not the same thing?
      
      Gel-cell is RG (recombinant gas)
      
      AGM is RG
      
      Both types are sealed and also called VRLA (valve-regulated lead-acid), the valve
      is just an overpressure relief valve that will pop-off and release pressure
      if you abuse the battery and make it gas faster than the gasses, hydrogen and
      oxygen, will recombine.
      
      The difference is in construction.  AGM stands for absorbed glass mat.  The liquid
      electrolyte (yes, liquid) is held in a thin porous fiberglass mat that separates
      the lead plates and acts as an insulator.  It allows the plates to be very
      close together so you can pack a lot of power into a smaller package.  Often
      the lead plates are made out of lead foil and rolled up with the glass mat.
      AGMs are also called "starved electrolyte" because the mat holds very little
      electrolyte.  The chemistry is almost identical to standard flooded-cell lead-acid
      batteries and can use the same charging voltages.
      
      The killer for AGMs is to overcharge them after they have reached full charge.
      They can generate gas faster than they can recombine the gas and pop off their
      relief valves.  The water is then lost along with battery capacity.
      
      You can pull a lot of current out of an AGM battery quickly which makes even small
      ones good for engine starting.
      
      Gel-Cells use an electrolyte that has been turned into a paste that is then held
      between the lead plates using a more conventional insulator.  Gel-Cells tend
      to have lower capacity for their size and weight but they can tolerate deep discharges
      better than can AGMs.  Gel-Cells have a much higher internal resistance
      which makes their output voltage sag more under load.  Gel-Cells make poor
      starting batteries unless they are oversized for the application.  If you want
      to provide 4-5 hours of battery capacity to power your panel (not a bad idea
      if you have 4-5 hours of fuel and plan to fly IFR) then a gel-cell may be sufficiently
      oversized to be adequate as a starting battery as well.
      
      Gel-Cells use different charging voltages and using a stock voltage regulator set
      for flooded-cell batteries will probably damage your gel-cells in the long
      run as its charging voltage is set too high.
      
      The other thing to consider is that charging voltages need to be adjusted for battery
      temperature if you are using a sealed battery.  Flooded cell batteries
      can be abused through overcharging without damage more than can sealed batteries.
      
      Have I confused everyone enough yet?
      
      -- 
      Brian Lloyd                         6501 Red Hook Plaza
      brianl@lloyd.com                    Suite 201
      http://www.lloyd.com                St. Thomas, VI 00802
      +1.340.998.9447 (voice)             +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
      
      There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.  
      A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises. 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Trim speed control | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
      
      I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim tab.  I
      plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired together and
      to control the trim speed. 
      A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
      However,the link no longer works.  Does anyone know of schematic for the above
      need?  In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
      Thanks,
      Jim
      HRII
      
       I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
        installation at:
      
        http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
      
        The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
        a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
        speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
      
        I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
        the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
        right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
        of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
        voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
      
        Bob  . . .
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Trim speed control | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
      
      Jim
       Whose stick grips are you planning on using? If you use the new RAC 305 or 307
      grips, you can eliminate the need for relays. The hat switch  used in these grips
      is rated at 15 amps. Typical current through the hat switch for the servos
      is only 0.5 amp.  This reduces wiring complexity as you then only need a (less
      expensive) speed controller for your trim servos. I looked into the Mac controller,
      but I do not like the idea that this system allows for "first come, first
      serve" control of the flaps and trim servos. I prefer to use a 3 position
      toggle switch to control who's stick grip is "live" at any time. 
       This method has the advantage of giving the pilot positive control over who is
      controlling the flaps and trim at any time. The third position (OFF) allows the
      flaps and trim to be disabled if need be. I can email you a copy of my flap
      wiring schematic if you care to see it.
      Charlie Kuss
      
      >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
      >
      >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim tab. 
      I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired together
      and to control the trim speed. 
      >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
      >However,the link no longer works.  Does anyone know of schematic for the above
      need?  In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
      >Thanks,
      >Jim
      >HRII
      >
      > I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
      >  installation at:
      >
      >  http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
      >
      >  The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
      >  a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
      >  speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
      >
      >  I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
      >  the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
      >  right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
      >  of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
      >  voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
      >
      >  Bob  . . .
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Kroy 3000 pricing | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
      
      Someone recently mentioned using the Kroy K-3000-PC shrink tube printer on the
      list. I'm curious as to what members who own this piece of equipment paid for
      it and where they purchased it? I'd also like comments as to your opinion of it's
      usefulness.
      Charlie Kuss
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Capacitive fuel probe errors? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Winston Ellis <w1mdi@cox-internet.com>
      
      Does anyone on the list have experience using the capacitive type fuel
      level probes with auto fuel? I keep hearing that fuel additives,
      especially ethanol, can create wildly erroneous readings. I haven't
      installed mine yet and am wondering whether to switch to the float type.
      
      Winston Ellis
      Zenith 701/Suzuki
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
      
      Does anyone on the list have experience using the capacitive type fuel
      level probes with auto fuel? I keep hearing that fuel additives,
      especially ethanol, can create wildly erroneous readings. I haven't
      installed mine yet and am wondering whether to switch to the float type.
      I have a friend who uses both types of fuel in his RV7A (Subaru) and has that 
      problem.  He plans to change to the float type senders.
      
      Bob Trumpfheller
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Trim speed control | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
      
      Jim,
      
      I can not view your schematic, is the address below correct ?
      
      Thanks
      Jeff.
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" 
      --> <jrstone@insightbb.com>
      
      I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim tab.
      I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired
      together and to control the trim speed. 
      A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N. However,the link
      no longer works.  Does anyone know of schematic for the above need?  In
      particular, I like the flap position controlled switch. Thanks, Jim HRII
      
       I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
        installation at:
      
        http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
      
        The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
        a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
        speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
      
        I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
        the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
        right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
        of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
        voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
      
        Bob  . . .
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
      
      One source is a fellow named Don, at 1 800 304-9043. I hope to get a price
      from him later today.  The internet has them in various sites for 149.00,
      the cartridges are 30 each for 230 narrow 1 inch labels that stick on.  See
      http://www.kroy.com/industrial/index.htm
      Jim
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Kroy 3000 pricing
      
      
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
      <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
      >
      > Someone recently mentioned using the Kroy K-3000-PC shrink tube printer on
      the list. I'm curious as to what members who own this piece of equipment
      paid for it and where they purchased it? I'd also like comments as to your
      opinion of it's usefulness.
      > Charlie Kuss
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 15
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
      
      Dave -
      
      I have a bunch of LED/Glow sites, but this one is really good.
      
      Beside looking at EL strips for panel floods (under the glare shield), we 
      also are looking for LED lights for cabin dome, battery compartment and 
      baggage compartment. Have you installed the 4 LED cluster in an airplane 
      or car yet?
      
      I found some 12 LED strips (1 inch apart) that really pur out the light. 
      The problem there is protecting them from head knockers, bags, etc.. If 
      you happen to know of a source for a clear lexan/metal or similar 
      extrusion to house them, I'd appreciate knowing about what you find.
      
      Thanks for the info.
      
      Cheers,
      
      John
      
      
      > The 4 LED cluster is truly awesome! Runs directly off of 12V too.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 16
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
      
      Hello,
      
      I'm currently detailing my already flying Glastar and changed over to Visio
      as I'm better used to it, thanks to Chad I have many of the needed symbols,
      I'm currently looking at getting the symbols for the audio parts
      phone/mic/PTT symbols.
      
      Anybody out there which has them in use/made?
      
      Many thanks for your help!
      
      Werner
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 17
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Capacitive fuel probe errors? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
      
      There is a very recent discussion on the Blue Mountain Avionics discussion
      list about capacitive probes and auto gas.  It seems that the probes have to
      be calibrated for the type of fuel being used, which causes lots of error or
      inconvenience if you want to switch between 100LL and autogas.  Maybe it
      would work if you used one type of fuel in one tank and another in the other
      tank.
      
      To see the discussion, go to bluemountainavionics.com, then to the
      discussion list and search on the last day or last weeks postings.
      
      Terry
      RV-8A with capacitive probes & Blue Mountain EFIS
      Wiring
      
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
      
      Does anyone on the list have experience using the capacitive type fuel
      level probes with auto fuel? I keep hearing that fuel additives,
      especially ethanol, can create wildly erroneous readings. I haven't
      installed mine yet and am wondering whether to switch to the float type.
      I have a friend who uses both types of fuel in his RV7A (Subaru) and has
      that
      problem.  He plans to change to the float type senders.
      
      Bob Trumpfheller
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 18
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Visio Symbols | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
      
      If you tell me which ones you're after based on one of Bob's DWG/DXF files I 
      can add them to the Visio stencil I made. It's due for an update anyway; I've 
      made some minor modifications to handle my electrical system layout.
      
      Also, I haven't done this yet, but at some point I need to go through and 
      correct all of the text labels. With some of the parts you just click on the 
      part and start typing. With others you have to click a second time to select 
      the "inner" object. I want to fix that. It's just a pain in the rear...
      
      Werner Schneider wrote:
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
      > 
      > Hello,
      > 
      > I'm currently detailing my already flying Glastar and changed over to Visio
      > as I'm better used to it, thanks to Chad I have many of the needed symbols,
      > I'm currently looking at getting the symbols for the audio parts
      > phone/mic/PTT symbols.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 19
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
      
      
      > etc.. If 
      > you happen to know of a source for a clear
      lexan/metal or similar 
      > extrusion to house them, I'd appreciate knowing
      about what you find.
      > 
      > Thanks for the info.
      > 
      > Cheers,
      > 
      > John
      > 
      
      Here's a trick I worked up.  You can take the single
      packaged LED from www.superbrightled.com and package
      them directly into 1/4"
      plexiglass/lexan/wood/whatever.  Just use and
      appropriate sized drill bit (I believe I used
      3/16"), and glue them in with some model glue. 
      Solder the lead in series with resistors in whatever
      configuration you feel is appropriate, and pot the
      back end to a solid mass with epoxy/shoe goo/whatever.
      
      It makes for some interesting packaging options. 
      Basically, whatever your heart so desires.  I was
      going to do a 1/2" wide by 4" tall tail light, but
      I've since decide to place the tail lights on the
      wingtips like the canards do.  Makes the wiring so
      much simpler.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 20
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Trim speed control | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
      
      Jim;
      
      In trying to access older files posted by Bob K if you replace the 
      numeric part of the link with "aeroelectric.com" (without the quotes) 
      they usually work. These changes took place when he changed servers a 
      while back. In the particular case you've cited however, the word trim 
      should also not be repeated. I you go to   
      http://aeroelectric.com/articles/   you can look at the list of all 
      articles readily available. ("trim4" does not appear in the list, but 
      "trim", "trim.pdf", and "trim2.pdf" do)
      
      Bob McC
      
      Jim Stone wrote:
      
      >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
      >
      >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim tab. 
      I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired together
      and to control the trim speed. 
      >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
      >However,the link no longer works.  Does anyone know of schematic for the above
      need?  In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
      >Thanks,
      >Jim
      >HRII
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 21
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Visio Symbols | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
      
      Hello Chad,
      
      the text problem is not so anoying, what I'm looking at currently are the
      parts from the seminar wirebook 6.1 Audio Panel, plugs for MIC and phones
      symbol as well as the PTT Button.
      
      More or less, most of the symbols in this series of drawings are needed e.g.
      Dimmer, the ~ symbol, fuel flow transcducer etc.
      
      Many thanks for your help!
      
      Werner
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Chad Robinson" <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Visio Symbols
      
      
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson
      <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
      >
      > If you tell me which ones you're after based on one of Bob's DWG/DXF files
      I
      > can add them to the Visio stencil I made. It's due for an update anyway;
      I've
      > made some minor modifications to handle my electrical system layout.
      >
      > Also, I haven't done this yet, but at some point I need to go through and
      > correct all of the text labels. With some of the parts you just click on
      the
      > part and start typing. With others you have to click a second time to
      select
      > the "inner" object. I want to fix that. It's just a pain in the rear...
      >
      > Werner Schneider wrote:
      > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
      <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
      > >
      > > Hello,
      > >
      > > I'm currently detailing my already flying Glastar and changed over to
      Visio
      > > as I'm better used to it, thanks to Chad I have many of the needed
      symbols,
      > > I'm currently looking at getting the symbols for the audio parts
      > > phone/mic/PTT symbols.
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 22
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | electric trim switches | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
      
      Bruce,
       Regarding the toggle switches needed to allow the pilot to have absolute control
      of who's stick grips are "live" for electric flaps  I had thought that these
      items were special order only items.  I've searched some more & have found both
      of these items IN STOCK at Mouser Electronics in the NKK brand. These are
      considerably cheaper than the quote from Waytek for the Carling switches. I'm
      ordering 1 of each for my project.
      
      3 pole double throw ON/OFF/ON toggle switches with 1/4" fast on terminals
              
      http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&Ntt=*633S33F*&terms=633-S33F&Dk=1&D=*633S33F*&N=0&crc=true
      
      4 pole double throw ON/OFF/ON toggle switch with 1/4" fast on terminals
      
      http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&Ntt=*633S43F*&terms=633-S43F&Dk=1&D=*633S43F*&N=0&crc=true
      
      FYI  These switches will cosmetically & electrically match the Carling switches
      sold by B & C and other vendors.  I found the Waytek is much cheaper than B &
      C for the same Carling toggle switches. However, I ordered the 2-10 style switches
      from B & C because Waytek doesn't carry those items.
      
      Charlie Kuss
      
      >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
      >
      >Can I get a copy?
      >
      >Bruce
      >www.glasair.org
      >
      >
      >-----Original Message-----
      >From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      >[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      >Charlie Kuss
      >To: jschroeder@perigee.net
      >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: electric trim switches
      >
      >
      >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
      ><chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
      >
      >John
      > Here you go. This switch allows pilot, copilot or OFF for the flap
      >circuit. The power must be switched because there is a possibility of
      >the WHITE or WHITE/BLUE wires (between the relays and the switch)
      >shorting to ground. If this happens, a flap runaway would result.  If
      >the power was not switched, choosing the OFF position would not work to
      >stop the runaway. A 4 pole version of this switch is used to do the same
      >thing on a 2 axis electric trim system. I'm still finalizing the
      >schematic for that circuit.
      >Charlie
      >
      >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
      ><jschroeder@perigee.net>
      >>
      >>Charlie -
      >>
      >>I have AutoCAD 200LT and would love to get a file of the flap
      >circuitry.
      >>
      >>Many hanks,
      >>
      >>John
      >>
      >>
      >>> If you have > AutoCAD or another program that reads DWG files, I can 
      >>> email you a copy of my electric flap circuit. Seeing this circuit
      >should 
      >>> aid in  understanding how these switches are used.
      >>> Charlie Kuss
      >>
      >>
      >
      >
      >==
      >==
      >==
      >==
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 23
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <mjheinen@adelphia.net>
      
      http://members.tripod.com/~HANOVER_TECHNICAL/index.html
      
      K3000-PC - $140.95 Buy 15 supply cartridges at the standard
      discounted price and we'll give you a new Kroy K3000 label
      and wire marker printer at NO CHARGE! (except shipping)
      
      I got mine this way. It works great. Any black,white,grey graphic or font that
      is on your computer you can use. They have various lables, wire wrap and heat
      shrink tubes available. You might get together with your other builders in your
      area and split the cost.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 24
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
      
      Hi Charlie -
      
      If one is going to go for the more expensive and probably the easiest way 
      to get labelling on to wires, I'd look at the Kroy 2500. It can do wire 
      wraps that are designed for the printer and are fairly well indestructible 
      when applied to the wire. If you want to go the shrink tubing way, it also 
      has the ability to print on several sizes of tubing. Of course, you have 
      to use the cartridges designed for the 2500. If you have no need for the 
      machine after you are finished wiring - sell it on eBay.
      
      The 2500 runs about $250 - 280 for a new one or a good used one. The 
      problem is that Kroy quit making them and are very late getting the 
      replacement (the 5100) to market. Thus, the used ones are going for about 
      the price of what they were new. One source told me that the 5100 will be 
      in their hands around the 1st of June; which is too late for us. So, we 
      bought a refurbed 2500 from him with the promise to take it back for 
      almost the same price  if we want to get the 5100 when it arrives.
      
      Check:
      http://members.tripod.com/~HANOVER_TECHNICAL/kroy11.html Ask for Don 
      Lovett if you call the 800 number.
      
      http://www.labelpal.com/k2500.html another source and descriptions.
      
      http://www.ptouchlabels.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=79
              Good prices on label cartridges and the ones for the 2500 will also work
      
      for the         5100. These guys also carry the printers.
      
      http://www.kroy.com/industrial/5100spec.asp (5100 specs).
      
      I've check eBay for some time and there have been no 2500 available for 
      quite some time.
      
      Hope this helps,
      
      John
      
      > Someone recently mentioned using the Kroy K-3000-PC shrink tube printer 
      > on the list. I'm curious as to what members who own this piece of 
      > equipment paid for it and where they purchased it? I'd also like 
      > comments as to your opinion of it's usefulness.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 25
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
      
      In a message dated 04/27/2004 3:08:54 PM Central Standard Time, 
      terry@tcwatson.com writes:
      There is a very recent discussion on the Blue Mountain Avionics discussion
      list about capacitive probes and auto gas.  It seems that the probes have to
      be calibrated for the type of fuel being used, which causes lots of error or
      inconvenience if you want to switch between 100LL and autogas.
      Use floats- they can't tell the difference...
      Mark & do not archive
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 26
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re:  Manual Battery Contactor | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
      
      Many thanks to Harley, Chad, Matt and Dr. Bob.  I didn't expect to get so many
      helpful responses.  You guys are great!
      
      Bob Miller
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 27
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry Colley <larry@grrok.com>
      
      I'm using wire numbers printed on velium and covering them with clear 
      shrink tubing that I purchased from B&C.
      
      At 02:44 PM 4/25/04, you wrote:
      >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
      >
      >As I start to install my electrical system, I want to label wires at each end.
      >What is a good labelling system?
      >
      >Thanks
      >Neil
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 28
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Capacitive fuel probe errors? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
      
      Is switching between auto and 100LL really a problem for people? I would
      figure that people would use one or the other for their engine. 
      
      However if it is a problem it is an interesting one and makes me happy that
      my engine monitor can be calibrate for several different gas types. 
      
      Regards,
      Trampas Stern 
      www.sterntech.com
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      Fiveonepw@aol.com
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors?
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
      
      In a message dated 04/27/2004 3:08:54 PM Central Standard Time, 
      terry@tcwatson.com writes:
      There is a very recent discussion on the Blue Mountain Avionics discussion
      list about capacitive probes and auto gas.  It seems that the probes have to
      be calibrated for the type of fuel being used, which causes lots of error or
      inconvenience if you want to switch between 100LL and autogas.
      Use floats- they can't tell the difference...
      Mark & do not archive
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 29
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: RG Batteries Where to buy online? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
      
      I used Sunn battery in Jacksonville Fl.  Great price and shipping on Odyssey
      680. http://www.sunnbattery.com/catalog.html
      Jim
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: <ALWAYSPDG@aol.com>
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: RG Batteries Where to buy online?
      
      
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
      >
      > I would like to ask the group where you might recommend to purchase a RG
      > battery online.  I am looking to replace an existing PowerSonic PS-12180
      NB
      > battery.
      >
      >
      > Thanks, Mike
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 30
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Odyssey Batteries on eBay | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich" <flynski@mwutah.com>
      
      If looking for the Odyssey you probably can't beat Odyssey World on eBay.
      Just put Odyssey Battery in the search and you will find them.   PC680's for
      $53 buy it now.
      
      Scott
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 31
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Winston Ellis <w1mdi@cox-internet.com>
      
      I believe the problem is not so much switching between auto and 100LL as what
      additives are in the auto gas. One of the capacitive probe manufacturers told me
      that straight auto fuel reads exactly the same as 100LL (has the same
      di-electric constant) but that stuff like ethanol and other additives throws it
      way off.
      
      Winston Ellis
      
      Trampas wrote:
      
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
      >
      > Is switching between auto and 100LL really a problem for people? I would
      > figure that people would use one or the other for their engine.
      >
      > However if it is a problem it is an interesting one and makes me happy that
      > my engine monitor can be calibrate for several different gas types.
      >
      > Regards,
      > Trampas Stern
      > www.sterntech.com
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      > Fiveonepw@aol.com
      > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors?
      >
      > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
      >
      > In a message dated 04/27/2004 3:08:54 PM Central Standard Time,
      > terry@tcwatson.com writes:
      > There is a very recent discussion on the Blue Mountain Avionics discussion
      > list about capacitive probes and auto gas.  It seems that the probes have to
      > be calibrated for the type of fuel being used, which causes lots of error or
      > inconvenience if you want to switch between 100LL and autogas.
      > Use floats- they can't tell the difference...
      > Mark & do not archive
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 32
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| Subject:  | Re: RG Batteries Where to buy online? | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
      
      Just wanted to thank those of you who responded to my questions regarding 
      batteries.
      
      
      Thanks, Mike
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 33
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      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
      
      You can buy expensive labelers, but I found the best solution for me was to
      use the heat shrink wire labels for a Brady labeler and just write on them
      with indelible pen.  When you shrink them down, the writing shrinks down
      nicely and it's an easy solution. Look for Brady labelers on the web and
      their Permashrink labels.  Get the smallest and they will shrink down to 22
      gage.
      
      David Schaefer
      RV6A Finishing
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
      Colley
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wire labels
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry Colley <larry@grrok.com>
      
      I'm using wire numbers printed on velium and covering them with clear 
      shrink tubing that I purchased from B&C.
      
      At 02:44 PM 4/25/04, you wrote:
      >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton
      <harvey4@earthlink.net>
      >
      >As I start to install my electrical system, I want to label wires at each
      end.
      >What is a good labelling system?
      >
      >Thanks
      >Neil
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 34
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | RG batteries where to buy online | 
      
      --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott" <tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
      
      Mike,
      
      Portable Power Systems, INC. sells the Panasonic 17 ampere hour battery for
      $44.95.
      Their item number for the LC-RD1217P SLA is: 34L105S2.
      
      sales@gotbatteries.com
      
      Regards,
      Troy
      tscott1217@bellsouth.net
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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