Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Re: RG Battery CCA ? (Bill Maxwell)
2. 04:08 AM - Jabiru Alternator Output (Bob Miller)
3. 05:25 AM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 06:16 AM - Re: Trim speed control (Jim Stone)
5. 06:28 AM - Re: Jabiru Alternator Output (Brian Lloyd)
6. 07:37 AM - Re: Trim speed control (Jim Stone)
7. 07:38 AM - Re: Trim speed control (Jim Stone)
8. 07:42 AM - Re: Trim speed control (Jim Stone)
9. 08:36 AM - Re: Trim speed control (Werner Schneider)
10. 09:00 AM - Re: Wire labels (Richard Tasker)
11. 10:00 AM - Re: Trim speed control (Charlie Kuss)
12. 10:00 AM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing (Charlie Kuss)
13. 10:16 AM - Re: Rotax alternator configuration (william mills)
14. 10:26 AM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
15. 10:26 AM - Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights ()
16. 11:11 AM - Re: Odyssey Batteries on eBay (McFarland, Randy)
17. 11:48 AM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 (Ron Triano)
18. 12:07 PM - Re: Odyssey Batteries on eBay (Ed Anderson)
19. 01:18 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Terry Watson)
20. 01:34 PM - Some Data on the Rotax regulator (GT)
21. 01:58 PM - Re: Some Data on the Rotax regulator (GT)
22. 03:27 PM - Cosel power supply (Ron Triano)
23. 03:33 PM - Re: Trim speed control (Robert McCallum)
24. 03:49 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Brian Lloyd)
25. 03:58 PM - Re: Cosel power supply (Robert McCallum)
26. 04:04 PM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 (Robert McCallum)
27. 04:28 PM - Re: Cosel power supply (Eric M. Jones)
28. 04:37 PM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 (Richard Tasker)
29. 04:38 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Eric M. Jones)
30. 04:46 PM - Re: Cosel power supply (Richard Tasker)
31. 04:49 PM - Re: Cosel power supply (John Schroeder)
32. 04:54 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Terry Watson)
33. 05:01 PM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing (John Schroeder)
34. 05:10 PM - Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 (Robert McCallum)
35. 05:10 PM - Re: Re: Cosel power supply (Ron Triano)
36. 05:49 PM - ND alternator terminals (Neil Clayton)
37. 05:57 PM - Re: Re: Rotax alternator configuration (Rick Girard)
38. 06:15 PM - Re: Re: Cosel power supply (Eric M. Jones)
39. 06:36 PM - Re: Trim speed control (Jim Stone)
40. 06:40 PM - Re: Trim speed control (Jim Stone)
41. 07:24 PM - Re: ND alternator terminals (Ron Triano)
42. 07:45 PM - Re: Trim speed control (Charlie Kuss)
43. 08:09 PM - Rotax regulator (hausding, sid)
44. 08:33 PM - Re: Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Winston Ellis)
45. 10:18 PM - Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Brian Lloyd)
46. 10:38 PM - Re: Trim speed control (Brian Lloyd)
47. 11:01 PM - Re: ND alternator terminals (Brian Lloyd)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RG Battery CCA ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Maxwell" <wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
No confusion, just very useful information. Thanks Brian.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Lloyd" <brianl@lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RG Battery CCA ?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
>
> Bill Maxwell wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Maxwell"
<wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
> >
> > Ah, so maybe Gells and RG cells are not the same thing?
>
> Gel-cell is RG (recombinant gas)
>
> AGM is RG
>
> Both types are sealed and also called VRLA (valve-regulated lead-acid),
the valve is just an overpressure relief valve that will pop-off and release
pressure if you abuse the battery and make it gas faster than the gasses,
hydrogen and oxygen, will recombine.
>
> The difference is in construction. AGM stands for absorbed glass mat.
The liquid electrolyte (yes, liquid) is held in a thin porous fiberglass mat
that separates the lead plates and acts as an insulator. It allows the
plates to be very close together so you can pack a lot of power into a
smaller package. Often the lead plates are made out of lead foil and rolled
up with the glass mat. AGMs are also called "starved electrolyte" because
the mat holds very little electrolyte. The chemistry is almost identical to
standard flooded-cell lead-acid batteries and can use the same charging
voltages.
>
> The killer for AGMs is to overcharge them after they have reached full
charge. They can generate gas faster than they can recombine the gas and
pop off their relief valves. The water is then lost along with battery
capacity.
>
> You can pull a lot of current out of an AGM battery quickly which makes
even small ones good for engine starting.
>
> Gel-Cells use an electrolyte that has been turned into a paste that is
then held between the lead plates using a more conventional insulator.
Gel-Cells tend to have lower capacity for their size and weight but they can
tolerate deep discharges better than can AGMs. Gel-Cells have a much higher
internal resistance which makes their output voltage sag more under load.
Gel-Cells make poor starting batteries unless they are oversized for the
application. If you want to provide 4-5 hours of battery capacity to power
your panel (not a bad idea if you have 4-5 hours of fuel and plan to fly
IFR) then a gel-cell may be sufficiently oversized to be adequate as a
starting battery as well.
>
> Gel-Cells use different charging voltages and using a stock voltage
regulator set for flooded-cell batteries will probably damage your gel-cells
in the long run as its charging voltage is set too high.
>
> The other thing to consider is that charging voltages need to be adjusted
for battery temperature if you are using a sealed battery. Flooded cell
batteries can be abused through overcharging without damage more than can
sealed batteries.
>
> Have I confused everyone enough yet?
>
> --
> Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
> brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
> http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
> +1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
>
> There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
> A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Jabiru Alternator Output |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
My Jabiru manual says the alternator output is "14.2 VDA at 3000 RPM" and "10 amps
Continuous". Does this mean that a maximum output of 14.2 amps is achieved
at 3000 RPM, and that output will never be below 10 amps at any operating RPM?
Or, what...?
Thanks,
Bob Miller
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
There are concerns about using autogas in a plane. Several articles were
published by Light Plane Maintenance magazine beginning July 2000. I got a
copy at Oshkosh, FAA Safety meeting, or somewhere and recently read it.
Here is reference for back issues:
http://www.lightplane-maintenance.com/pastissue.html
In sort, when using autogas in our plane we should, for our own safety and
our engine's, test each batch of fuel for water/alcohol, octane rating, and
Reid vapor pressure. Supposedly the equipment needed for this testing is
available from ACS at reasonable cost.
In addition, each autogas purchase may have different brand additives and
time-of-the-year/season related additives, different additives due to state,
EPA, and local regulations/fuel laws. There is none of these differences in
AVgas. Each batch of AVgas is identical regardless of where or time of year
it is purchased.
Vapor lock has been studied by the EAA. Here is 2001 reference:
http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/vaporlock.html
In addition some airplane parts may be altered in size due to autogas
additives. Here are other EAA references for anyone having further
interest:
http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/materials.html
http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/oxygenated.html
And if we are interested in considering a mix of AVgas with autogas, please
read this article by EAA:
http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/fuel/mix.html
And *finally* with a newly rebuilt engine, here is article by EAA on use of
autogas:
http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/overhaul.html
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 04/27/2004 3:08:54 PM Central Standard Time,
> terry@tcwatson.com writes:
> There is a very recent discussion on the Blue Mountain Avionics discussion
> list about capacitive probes and auto gas. It seems that the probes have
to
> be calibrated for the type of fuel being used, which causes lots of error
or
> inconvenience if you want to switch between 100LL and autogas.
> Use floats- they can't tell the difference...
> Mark & do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
The post below with the link is from Bob N back in 2001 from the archives.
The link no longer works and that is why I posted the note. Where is the
schematic now?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba"
<jskiba@icosa.net>
>
> Jim,
>
> I can not view your schematic, is the address below correct ?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff.
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
> --> <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
> I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim
tab.
> I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired
> together and to control the trim speed.
> A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N. However,the
link
> no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for the above need? In
> particular, I like the flap position controlled switch. Thanks, Jim HRII
>
> I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
> installation at:
>
> http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
>
> The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
> a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
> speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
>
> I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
> the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
> right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
> of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
> voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Alternator Output |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Bob Miller wrote:
> My Jabiru manual says the alternator output is "14.2 VDA at 3000 RPM"
> and "10 amps Continuous". Does this mean that a maximum output of
> 14.2 amps is achieved at 3000 RPM, and that output will never be
> below 10 amps at any operating RPM? Or, what...?
It means that the alternator will put out 14.2V at 3000 RPM. It means you should
never put a continuous load on the alternator that exceeds 10A. That doesn't
mean it can source 10A at low RPM, only that continuous current drain of greater
than 10A could damage the alternator.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Charlie,
I plan on using the Infinity grips, they are similar to what I used in the
Navy. So, I'm stuck with the extra wiring and relays. I really don't
consider two people trying to trim the aircraft much of a worry. As long as
you have a positive change of "pilot flying", there should be only one hand
on a stick at a time. Worse case, if I am attempting to trim and nothing is
happening or it is going the wrong way, I can just shake the stick and
remind the backseater who has the airplane.
Although wiring the aircraft with the two switches is possibly safer, I
don't think I want to reach down somewhere to flip two switches every I take
control or give up control of the aircraft.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
<chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Jim
> Whose stick grips are you planning on using? If you use the new RAC 305
or 307 grips, you can eliminate the need for relays. The hat switch used in
these grips is rated at 15 amps. Typical current through the hat switch for
the servos is only 0.5 amp. This reduces wiring complexity as you then only
need a (less expensive) speed controller for your trim servos. I looked into
the Mac controller, but I do not like the idea that this system allows for
"first come, first serve" control of the flaps and trim servos. I prefer to
use a 3 position toggle switch to control who's stick grip is "live" at any
time.
> This method has the advantage of giving the pilot positive control over
who is controlling the flaps and trim at any time. The third position (OFF)
allows the flaps and trim to be disabled if need be. I can email you a copy
of my flap wiring schematic if you care to see it.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
<jrstone@insightbb.com>
> >
> >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim
tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired
together and to control the trim speed.
> >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
> >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for the
above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
> >Thanks,
> >Jim
> >HRII
> >
> > I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
> > installation at:
> >
> > http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
> >
> > The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
> > a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
> > speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
> >
> > I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
> > the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
> > right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
> > of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
> > voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Thanks Bob, I'll give that a try.
Jim
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
<robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Jim;
>
> In trying to access older files posted by Bob K if you replace the
> numeric part of the link with "aeroelectric.com" (without the quotes)
> they usually work. These changes took place when he changed servers a
> while back. In the particular case you've cited however, the word trim
> should also not be repeated. I you go to
> http://aeroelectric.com/articles/ you can look at the list of all
> articles readily available. ("trim4" does not appear in the list, but
> "trim", "trim.pdf", and "trim2.pdf" do)
>
> Bob McC
>
> Jim Stone wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
<jrstone@insightbb.com>
> >
> >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim
tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired
together and to control the trim speed.
> >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
> >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for the
above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
> >Thanks,
> >Jim
> >HRII
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Bob,
I just tried the link below, it took me to the list of articles, but I was
unable to open any of the ones you list below. I get a file error message.
Any idea why?
Jim
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
<robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Jim;
>
> In trying to access older files posted by Bob K if you replace the
> numeric part of the link with "aeroelectric.com" (without the quotes)
> they usually work. These changes took place when he changed servers a
> while back. In the particular case you've cited however, the word trim
> should also not be repeated. I you go to
> http://aeroelectric.com/articles/ you can look at the list of all
> articles readily available. ("trim4" does not appear in the list, but
> "trim", "trim.pdf", and "trim2.pdf" do)
>
> Bob McC
>
> Jim Stone wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
<jrstone@insightbb.com>
> >
> >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim
tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired
together and to control the trim speed.
> >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
> >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for the
above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
> >Thanks,
> >Jim
> >HRII
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Jim, try to download them and open them from the disk.
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
<jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
> Bob,
> I just tried the link below, it took me to the list of articles, but I was
> unable to open any of the ones you list below. I get a file error
message.
> Any idea why?
> Jim
> Do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
> <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> >
> > Jim;
> >
> > In trying to access older files posted by Bob K if you replace the
> > numeric part of the link with "aeroelectric.com" (without the quotes)
> > they usually work. These changes took place when he changed servers a
> > while back. In the particular case you've cited however, the word trim
> > should also not be repeated. I you go to
> > http://aeroelectric.com/articles/ you can look at the list of all
> > articles readily available. ("trim4" does not appear in the list, but
> > "trim", "trim.pdf", and "trim2.pdf" do)
> >
> > Bob McC
> >
> > Jim Stone wrote:
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
> <jrstone@insightbb.com>
> > >
> > >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim
> tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired
> together and to control the trim speed.
> > >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
> > >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for
the
> above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
> > >Thanks,
> > >Jim
> > >HRII
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
This is a good suggestion, but everyone would have better luck finding
it if they used the correct name "Permasleeve". It took me about 10
minutes to discover this detail...
Dick Tasker
David Schaefer wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
>You can buy expensive labelers, but I found the best solution for me was to
>use the heat shrink wire labels for a Brady labeler and just write on them
>with indelible pen. When you shrink them down, the writing shrinks down
>nicely and it's an easy solution. Look for Brady labelers on the web and
>their Permashrink labels. Get the smallest and they will shrink down to 22
>gage.
>
>David Schaefer
>RV6A Finishing
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Jim
What is your plan of action if a button should stick on either grip? Pull the
breaker or fuse?
Charlie
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>Charlie,
>I plan on using the Infinity grips, they are similar to what I used in the
>Navy. So, I'm stuck with the extra wiring and relays. I really don't
>consider two people trying to trim the aircraft much of a worry. As long as
>you have a positive change of "pilot flying", there should be only one hand
>on a stick at a time. Worse case, if I am attempting to trim and nothing is
>happening or it is going the wrong way, I can just shake the stick and
>remind the backseater who has the airplane.
>Although wiring the aircraft with the two switches is possibly safer, I
>don't think I want to reach down somewhere to flip two switches every I take
>control or give up control of the aircraft.
>Jim
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
><chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Jim
>> Whose stick grips are you planning on using? If you use the new RAC 305
>or 307 grips, you can eliminate the need for relays. The hat switch used in
>these grips is rated at 15 amps. Typical current through the hat switch for
>the servos is only 0.5 amp. This reduces wiring complexity as you then only
>need a (less expensive) speed controller for your trim servos. I looked into
>the Mac controller, but I do not like the idea that this system allows for
>"first come, first serve" control of the flaps and trim servos. I prefer to
>use a 3 position toggle switch to control who's stick grip is "live" at any
>time.
>> This method has the advantage of giving the pilot positive control over
>who is controlling the flaps and trim at any time. The third position (OFF)
>allows the flaps and trim to be disabled if need be. I can email you a copy
>of my flap wiring schematic if you care to see it.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
><jrstone@insightbb.com>
>> >
>> >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator trim
>tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be wired
>together and to control the trim speed.
>> >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
>> >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for the
>above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
>> >Thanks,
>> >Jim
>> >HRII
>> >
>> > I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
>> > installation at:
>> >
>> > http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
>> >
>> > The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
>> > a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
>> > speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
>> >
>> > I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
>> > the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
>> > right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
>> > of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
>> > voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
>> >
>> > Bob . . .
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
John,
How is the 250 better than the 300? I have a computer at my shop, so spending
$140-150 for the 300 appeals to me. I intend to print directly onto the heat shrink.
Do you have to use Kroy's heat shrink with the 300?
Charlie
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Hi Charlie -
>
>If one is going to go for the more expensive and probably the easiest way
>to get labelling on to wires, I'd look at the Kroy 2500. It can do wire
>wraps that are designed for the printer and are fairly well indestructible
>when applied to the wire. If you want to go the shrink tubing way, it also
>has the ability to print on several sizes of tubing. Of course, you have
>to use the cartridges designed for the 2500. If you have no need for the
>machine after you are finished wiring - sell it on eBay.
>
>The 2500 runs about $250 - 280 for a new one or a good used one. The
>problem is that Kroy quit making them and are very late getting the
>replacement (the 5100) to market. Thus, the used ones are going for about
>the price of what they were new. One source told me that the 5100 will be
>in their hands around the 1st of June; which is too late for us. So, we
>bought a refurbed 2500 from him with the promise to take it back for
>almost the same price if we want to get the 5100 when it arrives.
>
>Check:
>http://members.tripod.com/~HANOVER_TECHNICAL/kroy11.html Ask for Don
>Lovett if you call the 800 number.
>
>http://www.labelpal.com/k2500.html another source and descriptions.
>
>http://www.ptouchlabels.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=79
> Good prices on label cartridges and the ones for the 2500 will also work
>for the 5100. These guys also carry the printers.
>
>http://www.kroy.com/industrial/5100spec.asp (5100 specs).
>
>I've check eBay for some time and there have been no 2500 available for
>quite some time.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>John
>
>> Someone recently mentioned using the Kroy K-3000-PC shrink tube printer
>> on the list. I'm curious as to what members who own this piece of
>> equipment paid for it and where they purchased it? I'd also like
>> comments as to your opinion of it's usefulness.
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax alternator configuration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: william mills <courierboy@earthlink.net>
Gilles -
This sounds promising.
A John Deere regulator was mentioned as a replacement to the Ducati
reg/rectifier, but that was some time ago. I am interested in your
report.
Thank you -
Bill Mills
do not archive
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GT" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> > I'm not aware of any popular
> > replacements for the Ducati regulator supplied with Rotax engines.
>
>
>Hi Bob, Manuel and all
>
>Some months ago we started a survey of the Ducati regulator supplied by
>Rotax. Jerome's students are presently completing a thermal study. Their
>report is not yet definitive but it appears the Ducati rectifier/regulator
>reaches unacceptable temperatures when used for any length of time at
>anything above 50-60 % rated power.
>On the other hand, after getting good feed back from the Schike GR 4
>regulator, we have the feeling it could be a usable replacement. The
>advertised continuous rated current is 16 amps, confirmed by our measures,
>and without excessive heating. I'm intending to install a Schicke in our
>project.
>
>http://www.schicke-electronic.de/dframe.htm
>Only in German. For reasons unknown to me, the GR 4 doesn't appear on their
>website but Herr Schicke readily sent the specs.
>
>I hope I'll be able to make a short translation of the complete report
>within the next few weeks.
>
>FWIW
>Regards,
>
>Gilles Thesee
>Grenoble, France
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
I found another Internet retailer to look at for pricing on the Kroy
products. I just purchased the Kroy 2500 for $259.00 no tax, free shipping, and
$20.00
instant discount off my order. Just thought this might help for those of you
looking to purchase a Kroy product.
Mike
https://wx9.registeredsite.com/user879142/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProd
ucts.asp?idCategory=14
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
A source for larger sheets of EL lighting is:
http://www.luminousfilm.com/
They are an OEM for E-Lite ( http://www.e-lite.com/ ) and will sell you
EL lighting sheet in a large variety of sizes and two colors. You can
have them add the power connectors or crimp them on yourself. I haven't
bought any from these guys yet but am planning on using their stuff to
illuminate my reverse engraved panel overlay. The strips can also be
used for glareshield lighting.
Scott
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Odyssey Batteries on eBay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Anybody using the metal jacketed 680 in the Vans battery box? Fits OK? Any
reason to use the MJ over the regular 680?
Thx
Randy
7A FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich [mailto:flynski@mwutah.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Odyssey Batteries on eBay
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich"
<flynski@mwutah.com>
If looking for the Odyssey you probably can't beat Odyssey World on eBay.
Just put Odyssey Battery in the search and you will find them. PC680's for
$53 buy it now.
Scott
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
I found another Internet retailer to look at for pricing on the Kroy
products. I just purchased the Kroy 2500 for $259.00 no tax, free shipping,
and $20.00
instant discount off my order. Just thought this might help for those of you
looking to purchase a Kroy product.
Mike
https://wx9.registeredsite.com/user879142/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndPr
od
ucts.asp?idCategory=14
[rondefly]
Way to expensive, I could purchase about 14 years of 8.5X11 media, print the
labels on my computer which stick into the shrink wrap quite easy, since I
am using shrink wrap anyway for strain purposes.
Ron Triano
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Batteries on eBay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
The MJ generally costs a bit more than the plain 680, the metal jacket might
make it tougher to place in the RV battery box. I can see no reason to use
the MJ version unless perhaps you to not plan a battery box.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Odyssey Batteries on eBay
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy"
<Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
>
> Anybody using the metal jacketed 680 in the Vans battery box? Fits OK?
Any
> reason to use the MJ over the regular 680?
> Thx
> Randy
> 7A FWF
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich [mailto:flynski@mwutah.com]
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Odyssey Batteries on eBay
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich"
> <flynski@mwutah.com>
>
> If looking for the Odyssey you probably can't beat Odyssey World on eBay.
> Just put Odyssey Battery in the search and you will find them. PC680's
for
> $53 buy it now.
>
> Scott
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Just to be clear here, I am NOT the one that said "Use floats - they can't
tell the difference". The capacitive sensors that Van's sells are said to
have the advantage of more accuracy and an earlier indication of fuel level
as a full tank gets used.
Terry
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 04/27/2004 3:08:54 PM Central Standard Time,
terry@tcwatson.com writes:
There is a very recent discussion on the Blue Mountain Avionics discussion
list about capacitive probes and auto gas. It seems that the probes have to
be calibrated for the type of fuel being used, which causes lots of error or
inconvenience if you want to switch between 100LL and autogas.
Use floats- they can't tell the difference...
Mark & do not archive
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Some Data on the Rotax regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GT" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
My friend Jerome Delamare is completing a thermal survey of the Rotax rectifier/regulator
and a possible replacement, the Schicke GR 4.
Jerome is a reasercher at the Institut National Polytechnique de Grenoble (France)
The final report is still to come, but here is an excerpt of a recent message he
posted on a French homebuilder list.
He agreed to let me make a quick translation of the relevant text for the Aeroelectric
Connection.
I'd be glad to forward him any questions regarding his study.
Feel free to correct my English.
Regards,
Gilles
Translation :
"When I read the Rotax documentation I nearly had a fit. It specifies the ambient
maximum temperature is 90=B0C. Even without any measurements this seemed doubtful.
Since that we have characterized the regulator. I lack time to write a full report
at the moment but here is a short abstract.
- At nominal output, ie at 240 W, the regulator dissipates 80 W (actually measured)
- Thermal resistance between the regulator heat sink and and the ambient atmosphere,
measured at sea level, is 2=B0C/W.
- In a simplified way, one can add a series thermal resistance of 0,3=B0C/W to
obtain the junction temperature.
- Junction temperature must not exceed 125=B0C
Conclusion : in order to work at nominal output the ambient temperature at sea
level must not exceed :
125 - 80*(2+ 0,3) - 59=B0C
Even in Siberia the thing may toast if used at nominal output !
Many among you may think "mine never toasted". Two reasons :
- Many use but one tenth of the nominal power advertised by ROTAX.
- It takes 45 min for the regulator to reach it's max temperature (thermal time
constant on the order of 15 min)
With a PC type fan, the regulator heat sink thermal resistance drops to about 0,5=B0C/W.
At sea level and nominal output, the ambiant temprerature should stay
below :
125-80*(0,5+0,3) + 61=B0C
You'll get out of the airplane before that limit !"
Original French text :
*****************************************************************************************
"En lisant la doc Rotax il y a quelques temps, j'ai failli prendre une attaque.
On y lit que la temp=E9rature ambiante max est de 90=B0C. Sans mesures, =E7a
semblait d=E9j=E0 peut cr=E9dible.
Depuis, nous avons caract=E9ris=E9 le r=E9gulateur. Je n'ai pas le temps de tout
r=E9diger en ce moment mais voici un r=E9sum=E9 :
- A la puissance nominale, c'est-=E0-dire 240W, le r=E9gulateur dissipe 80W (mesur=E9).
- La r=E9sistance thermique entre le radiateur du r=E9gulateur et l'ambiante, mesur=E9e
au niveau de la mer, est de 2=B0C/W.
- En simplifiant un peu, on peut rajouter en s=E9rie une r=E9sistance thermique
de 0,3=B0C/W pour obtenir la temp=E9rature de jonction.
- La temp=E9rature de jonction ne doit pas d=E9passer 125=B0C
Conclusion, pour pouvoir fonctionner au nominal, au niveau de la mer, la temp=E9rature
ambiante ne doit pas d=E9passer :
125 - 80*(2+ 0,3) - 59=B0C
M=EAme en Sib=E9rie le bidule risque de cramer si vous l'utilisez =E0 son r=E9gime
nominal !
Beaucoup d'entre vous doivent se dire : =AB le mien n'a jamais cram=E9 ! =BB. Deux
raisons =E0 cela :
- Beaucoup ne consomment que le dixi=E8me de la puissance nominale annonc=E9e
par ROTAX.
- Il faut 45 min pour que le r=E9gulateur atteigne sa temp=E9rature max
(constante de temps thermique d'environ 15 min).
Avec un ventilateur de PC, la r=E9sistance thermique du radiateur du r=E9gulateur
tombe =E0 environ 0,5=B0C/W.
Au niveau de la mer et au r=E9gime nominal, la temp=E9rature ambiante ne doit pas
d=E9passer :
125-80*(0,5+0,3) + 61=B0C
Vous serez descendu de l'avion avant !"
[...]
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Some Data on the Rotax regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "GT" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi all,
It seems the temperature symbols didn't get through correctly in the
previous message. All the
temperatures are in degrees C.
Corrected (hopefully) text below
Regards,
Gilles
> Hi Bob and all,
>
> My friend Jerome Delamare is completing a thermal survey of the Rotax
rectifier/regulator and a possible replacement, the Schicke GR 4.
> Jerome is a reasercher at the Institut National Polytechnique de Grenoble
(France)
> The final report is still to come, but here is an excerpt of a recent
message he posted on a French homebuilder list.
> He agreed to let me make a quick translation of the relevant text for the
Aeroelectric Connection.
>
> I'd be glad to forward him any questions regarding his study.
> Feel free to correct my English.
> Regards,
>
> Gilles
>
> Translation :
>
> "When I read the Rotax documentation I nearly had a fit. It specifies the
ambient maximum temperature is 90 degrees C. Even without any measurements
this seemed doubtful.
>
> Since that we have characterized the regulator. I lack time to write a
full report at the moment but here is a short abstract.
>
> - At nominal output, ie at 240 W, the regulator dissipates 80 W (actually
measured)
> - Thermal resistance between the regulator heat sink and and the ambient
atmosphere, measured at sea level, is 2 degrees C/W.
> - In a simplified way, one can add a series thermal resistance of 0,3
degrees C/W to obtain the junction temperature.
> - Junction temperature must not exceed 125 degrees C
>
> Conclusion : in order to work at nominal output the ambient temperature at
sea level must not exceed :
>
> 125 - 80*(2+ 0,3) = - 59 degrees C
>
> Even in Siberia the thing may toast if used at nominal output !
>
> Many among you may think "mine never toasted". Two reasons :
> - Many use but one tenth of the nominal power advertised by ROTAX.
> - It takes 45 min for the regulator to reach it's max temperature (thermal
time constant on the order of 15 min)
>
> With a PC type fan, the regulator heat sink thermal resistance drops to
about 0,5 degrees C/W. At sea level and nominal output, the ambiant
temprerature should stay below :
> 125-80*(0,5+0,3) = + 61 degrees C
>
> You'll get out of the airplane before that limit !"
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Cosel power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Hi, A few weeks ago Bob talked about AC to DC power supply's that were a
great buy. The name was Cosel and the price was right. I ordered one and
just got it, however there are no directions with it and it has some ID
marks on the terminals I don't understand. Maybe someone can help. They are
as follows.
+V +S
+V
-V
-V-S
FG
AC(L)
AC(N)
On top of this set of terminals there seams to be an V.ADJ which I think is
the way to adjust the voltage.
Thankyou in advance
Ron Triano
http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page2.html
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Jim;
No I don't understand that. I just tried them and at least the three I
listed pertaining to trim opened just fine for me. If you can access
the list I would think you should be able to open the individual files
as well. I just scanned down the list until I came to the ones you seem
to need, clicked on them and they opened. Sorry, beyond that I'm
stumped. If it's any help, contact me off list, I'll download them and
e-mail them directly to you as an attachment.
Bob McC
Jim Stone wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>Bob,
>I just tried the link below, it took me to the list of articles, but I was
>unable to open any of the ones you list below. I get a file error message.
>Any idea why?
>Jim
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Just to be clear here, I am NOT the one that said "Use floats - they can't
> tell the difference". The capacitive sensors that Van's sells are said to
> have the advantage of more accuracy and an earlier indication of fuel level
> as a full tank gets used.
If you want accuracy, you use a fuel totalizer. The fuel gauges are your sanity
check. A fuel gauge will tell you if your fuel is leaking away whereas a totalizer
won't.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cosel power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Ron;
See embedded comments
Bob McC
Ron Triano wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
>
>Hi, A few weeks ago Bob talked about AC to DC power supply's that were a
>great buy. The name was Cosel and the price was right. I ordered one and
>just got it, however there are no directions with it and it has some ID
>marks on the terminals I don't understand. Maybe someone can help. They are
>as follows.
>
>+V +S Positive voltage sense (not normally used)
>+V Positive voltage output terminal (equivalent to battery positive)
>-V Negative voltage output terminal (equivalent to battery negative)
>-V-S Negative voltage sense (not normally used)
>FG System ground (the ground pin in your hydro line cord)
>AC(L) AC power Line (the live wire in your hydro line cord)
>AC(N) AC power Neutral (the neutral wire in your hydro line cord)
>
>On top of this set of terminals there seams to be an V.ADJ which I think is
>the way to adjust the voltage. That is correct. The specifications say the voltage
is adjustable from about 10.8 to about 13.2 volts but in practice most of
these supplies will be able to reach about 14.2 volts.
>
>
>Thank you in advance
>
>Ron Triano
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Mike;
There are currently two Kroy 3000 printers offered on e-bay for
$49.00ea. Just enter "Kroy" into an e-bay search to find them if interested.
Bob McC
do not archive
ALWAYSPDG@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>
>I found another Internet retailer to look at for pricing on the Kroy
>products. I just purchased the Kroy 2500 for $259.00 no tax, free shipping, and
$20.00
>instant discount off my order. Just thought this might help for those of you
>looking to purchase a Kroy product.
>
>Mike
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | RE: Cosel power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano"
<rondefly@rtriano.com>
>Hi, A few weeks ago Bob talked about AC to DC power supply's that were a
>great buy. The name was Cosel and the price was right. I ordered one and
>just got it, however there are no directions with it and it has some ID
>marks on the terminals I don't understand. Maybe someone can help. They are
>as follows.
+V+S This is a sense lead (more below)
+V Positive Voltage Out (fat black wire)
-V Negative Voltage Out (fat red wire)
-V-S This is a sense lead (more below)
FG AC (Wall) Ground. Green wire.
AC(L) AC (Wall) Line, Hot, Black wire
AC(N) AC (Wall) Neutral, White wire
>On top of this set of terminals there seams to be an V.ADJ which I think is
the way to adjust the voltage.
Yes. See below.
Here's the deal on the sense leads. Let's say you have the power supply
cranked up and it's putting out a lot of current. Now the power supply does
not know how long your wires are. So if the power supply is adjusted to 12V,
you might be getting only 9V at the end of a long run of wire because of the
resistance of the wire. Not good.
So the power supply uses two more leads (these can be a very small wires
since they carry almost zero current) that measure the voltage at the far
end of the wires and adjust the power supply so that it delivers enough
voltage to deliver the right voltage at the far end of the wires. Cool eh?
Caveats: Often the power supply will do strange things if the sense leads
are not connected. After all, the supply is cranking its dear little heart
out to try to get the sense leads to the requested voltage. So for
non-critical purposes and short, fat, power leads, just jumper the sense
leads to the V+ leads they are associated with.
Also--The ground may or may not be connected to the negative lead. It
usually says on the box. For most purposes this will not matter.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
(Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Sure, you gotta go and tell everyone! Now I may not be able to get one
for cheap... :-)
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Robert McCallum wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
>Mike;
>
>There are currently two Kroy 3000 printers offered on e-bay for
>$49.00ea. Just enter "Kroy" into an e-bay search to find them if interested.
>
>Bob McC
>do not archive
>
>ALWAYSPDG@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>>
>>I found another Internet retailer to look at for pricing on the Kroy
>>products. I just purchased the Kroy 2500 for $259.00 no tax, free shipping, and
$20.00
>>instant discount off my order. Just thought this might help for those of you
>>looking to purchase a Kroy product.
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | RE: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Capacitive sensors are a neat way of measuring fuel levels.
The problem with different fuels is that they have different dielectric
constants; that is, a capacitor is two plates separated by something, and
that something has its own characteristics.
But Holy Mackerel Batman, it shouldn't take a rocket scientist to whip up a
device to obviate this infortuity!
Simply have another tiny reference circuit that is a capacitive fuel sensor
that is always submerged. The rest is simple for a rocket scientist.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"When dealing with the enemy, it helps if he thinks you're a little bit
crazy."
--Gen. Curtis LeMay
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Cosel power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
This is almost 100% correct. The sense terminals must be connected to
the appropriate output terminals (there may be jumpers installed
already). This is to allow remote sensing of the regulated voltage. If
the supply is located far from the equipment that uses the power, one
can run four wires to the use point and connect the sense inputs to the
power outputs at the use point. That eliminates any voltage drops in
the voltage output lines - i.e. the power supply regulates the voltage
measured at the use point rather than at the power supply terminals.
This is why the power supply can be adjusted to significantly higher
than the nameplate rating - to allow for the case where there is
significant voltage drop between the supply and the equipment using the
power.
The above may be much more than you want to know. If so, just read the
below statement. :-)
In your case, that is probably unnecessary so they should be connected
at the power supply (positive sense to positive output and negative
sense to negative output).
Dick Tasker,
RV9A #90573
Robert McCallum wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
>Ron;
>See embedded comments
>
>Bob McC
>
>Ron Triano wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
>>
>>Hi, A few weeks ago Bob talked about AC to DC power supply's that were a
>>great buy. The name was Cosel and the price was right. I ordered one and
>>just got it, however there are no directions with it and it has some ID
>>marks on the terminals I don't understand. Maybe someone can help. They are
>>as follows.
>>
>>+V +S Positive voltage sense (not normally used)
>>+V Positive voltage output terminal (equivalent to battery positive)
>>-V Negative voltage output terminal (equivalent to battery negative)
>>-V-S Negative voltage sense (not normally used)
>>FG System ground (the ground pin in your hydro line cord)
>>AC(L) AC power Line (the live wire in your hydro line cord)
>>AC(N) AC power Neutral (the neutral wire in your hydro line cord)
>>
>>On top of this set of terminals there seams to be an V.ADJ which I think is
>>the way to adjust the voltage. That is correct. The specifications say the voltage
is adjustable from about 10.8 to about 13.2 volts but in practice most of
these supplies will be able to reach about 14.2 volts.
>>
>>
>>Thank you in advance
>>
>>Ron Triano
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Cosel power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Check the guy's web site. I believe there is a picture of the terminals
and a listing of what they all mean.
John
> The name was Cosel and the price was right. I ordered one and
> just got it, however there are no directions with it and it has some ID
> marks on the terminals I don't understand.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Brian,
Good to see you back on one of Matt's lists. I see you moved. Must be an
interesting story there.
The Blue Mountain EFIS/one that I am installing has both the capacitive fuel
level sensors and a fuel totalizer that uses the fuel flow to keep track of
the fuel burn rate and fuel onboard. From the manual, "As you fly, this
number (fuel onboard) will be updated to show the current computed fuel
level. This number should substantially agree with what is shown on your
fuel level sensors but is not a measurement of the fuel level sensors. The
number shown as fuel onboard is calculated based upon the initial fuel
entered and the fuel used as read from the calibrated fuel flow sensor(s)."
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
<terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Just to be clear here, I am NOT the one that said "Use floats - they can't
> tell the difference". The capacitive sensors that Van's sells are said to
> have the advantage of more accuracy and an earlier indication of fuel
level
> as a full tank gets used.
If you want accuracy, you use a fuel totalizer. The fuel gauges are your
sanity check. A fuel gauge will tell you if your fuel is leaking away
whereas a totalizer won't.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Charlie -
I don't know if you have to use Kroy's shrink tubing with the 300 or not.
Kroy's website should have the info. You could also check the suppliers'
sites and see if they have a specific cartridge for the 300. Most of these
type of machines have proprietary stuff - witness Inkjet printers!! With
the 2500, I can choose what I want to use each time I set a wire - label
or tubing. Both cartridges are there and can be changed very quickly.
As for the 300 vs. the 2500, I chose the 2500 because I do not want to
have a computer in the shop where the dust from sanding and other stuff
can get into the drives. Also, the 2500 is self contained and does not
need a cord. While wiring in the fuselage or elsewhere, I want to be able
to cut a wire, put a label on, or a piece of lettered shrink tubing, strip
it and put a pin or connector on. Less chance for trying to remember which
6 or 7 wires in that AMP CPC are for what.
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
JOhn
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Kroy 3000 pricing & 2500 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
OOps sorry :'(
Bob McC
do not archive
Richard Tasker wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
>
>Sure, you gotta go and tell everyone! Now I may not be able to get one
>for cheap... :-)
>
>Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | RE: Cosel power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Thanks to both of you that answered. Did not want to blow it up before using
it.
Ron Triano
http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page2.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M.
Jones
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Cosel power supply
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano"
<rondefly@rtriano.com>
>Hi, A few weeks ago Bob talked about AC to DC power supply's that were a
>great buy. The name was Cosel and the price was right. I ordered one and
>just got it, however there are no directions with it and it has some ID
>marks on the terminals I don't understand. Maybe someone can help. They are
>as follows.
+V+S This is a sense lead (more below)
+V Positive Voltage Out (fat black wire)
-V Negative Voltage Out (fat red wire)
-V-S This is a sense lead (more below)
FG AC (Wall) Ground. Green wire.
AC(L) AC (Wall) Line, Hot, Black wire
AC(N) AC (Wall) Neutral, White wire
>On top of this set of terminals there seams to be an V.ADJ which I think is
the way to adjust the voltage.
Yes. See below.
Here's the deal on the sense leads. Let's say you have the power supply
cranked up and it's putting out a lot of current. Now the power supply does
not know how long your wires are. So if the power supply is adjusted to 12V,
you might be getting only 9V at the end of a long run of wire because of the
resistance of the wire. Not good.
So the power supply uses two more leads (these can be a very small wires
since they carry almost zero current) that measure the voltage at the far
end of the wires and adjust the power supply so that it delivers enough
voltage to deliver the right voltage at the far end of the wires. Cool eh?
Caveats: Often the power supply will do strange things if the sense leads
are not connected. After all, the supply is cranking its dear little heart
out to try to get the sense leads to the requested voltage. So for
non-critical purposes and short, fat, power leads, just jumper the sense
leads to the V+ leads they are associated with.
Also--The ground may or may not be connected to the negative lead. It
usually says on the box. For most purposes this will not matter.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
(Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | ND alternator terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
I have an ND 70 amp (yes, internally regulated) alternator.
I machined up a V-belt pulley ~5" diameter to slow the brute down from 10k
revs to get it to live longer and more reliably (?).
The "B" terminal is clear (it's the big meaty one), but there are three
other terminals in a "T" arrangement.
One will be field, one ground, but which is which, and what is the third one?
Thanks
Neil
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotax alternator configuration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick Girard <fly.ez@verizon.net>
WIth the mention of substituting a John Deere regulator for the Ducati
unit, I will assume my hunch that the Rotax uses a dynamo to generate
electricity is correct. If that is the case why not look at a Harley
Davidson regulator as a possible replacement? They handle up to 35 amps
and can be bought for around $60.
Rick Girard
Message 38
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| Subject: | RE: RE: Cosel power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Oops--
+V Positive Voltage Out (fat red wire )
-V Negative Voltage Out (fat black wire)
-V-S This is a sense lead (more below)
Target fixation maybe,
Eric
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
That worked, thanks Werner.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
<wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
>
> Jim, try to download them and open them from the disk.
>
> Werner
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
> <jrstone@insightbb.com>
> >
> > Bob,
> > I just tried the link below, it took me to the list of articles, but I
was
> > unable to open any of the ones you list below. I get a file error
> message.
> > Any idea why?
> > Jim
> > Do not archive
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> >
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
> > <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> > >
> > > Jim;
> > >
> > > In trying to access older files posted by Bob K if you replace the
> > > numeric part of the link with "aeroelectric.com" (without the quotes)
> > > they usually work. These changes took place when he changed servers a
> > > while back. In the particular case you've cited however, the word trim
> > > should also not be repeated. I you go to
> > > http://aeroelectric.com/articles/ you can look at the list of all
> > > articles readily available. ("trim4" does not appear in the list, but
> > > "trim", "trim.pdf", and "trim2.pdf" do)
> > >
> > > Bob McC
> > >
> > > Jim Stone wrote:
> > >
> > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
> > <jrstone@insightbb.com>
> > > >
> > > >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator tr
im
> > tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be
wired
> > together and to control the trim speed.
> > > >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
> > > >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for
> the
> > above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
> > > >Thanks,
> > > >Jim
> > > >HRII
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Well you got me there. Perhaps a normally closed switch with an emergency
position of open would solve that emergency. That way the switch on the
panel never gets used except for a runaway. What do you think?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
<chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Jim
> What is your plan of action if a button should stick on either grip? Pull
the breaker or fuse?
> Charlie
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
<jrstone@insightbb.com>
> >
> >Charlie,
> >I plan on using the Infinity grips, they are similar to what I used in
the
> >Navy. So, I'm stuck with the extra wiring and relays. I really don't
> >consider two people trying to trim the aircraft much of a worry. As long
as
> >you have a positive change of "pilot flying", there should be only one
hand
> >on a stick at a time. Worse case, if I am attempting to trim and nothing
is
> >happening or it is going the wrong way, I can just shake the stick and
> >remind the backseater who has the airplane.
> >Although wiring the aircraft with the two switches is possibly safer, I
> >don't think I want to reach down somewhere to flip two switches every I
take
> >control or give up control of the aircraft.
> >Jim
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
> >
> >
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> ><chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >> Jim
> >> Whose stick grips are you planning on using? If you use the new RAC
305
> >or 307 grips, you can eliminate the need for relays. The hat switch used
in
> >these grips is rated at 15 amps. Typical current through the hat switch
for
> >the servos is only 0.5 amp. This reduces wiring complexity as you then
only
> >need a (less expensive) speed controller for your trim servos. I looked
into
> >the Mac controller, but I do not like the idea that this system allows
for
> >"first come, first serve" control of the flaps and trim servos. I prefer
to
> >use a 3 position toggle switch to control who's stick grip is "live" at
any
> >time.
> >> This method has the advantage of giving the pilot positive control
over
> >who is controlling the flaps and trim at any time. The third position
(OFF)
> >allows the flaps and trim to be disabled if need be. I can email you a
copy
> >of my flap wiring schematic if you care to see it.
> >> Charlie Kuss
> >>
> >> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
> ><jrstone@insightbb.com>
> >> >
> >> >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator
trim
> >tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be
wired
> >together and to control the trim speed.
> >> >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
> >> >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for
the
> >above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
> >> >Thanks,
> >> >Jim
> >> >HRII
> >> >
> >> > I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
> >> > installation at:
> >> >
> >> > http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
> >> >
> >> > The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
> >> > a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
> >> > speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
> >> >
> >> > I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
> >> > the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
> >> > right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
> >> > of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
> >> > voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
> >> >
> >> > Bob . . .
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | ND alternator terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
This page may help you id the terminals.
http://www.mrreman.com/downloadsgateway/TECH/MRTSB-TECH-006.htm
Ron Triano
http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page2.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil
Clayton
Subject: AeroElectric-List: ND alternator terminals
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton
<harvey4@earthlink.net>
I have an ND 70 amp (yes, internally regulated) alternator.
I machined up a V-belt pulley ~5" diameter to slow the brute down from 10k
revs to get it to live longer and more reliably (?).
The "B" terminal is clear (it's the big meaty one), but there are three
other terminals in a "T" arrangement.
One will be field, one ground, but which is which, and what is the third
one?
Thanks
Neil
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Yes, that would work.
Charlie
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>Well you got me there. Perhaps a normally closed switch with an emergency
>position of open would solve that emergency. That way the switch on the
>panel never gets used except for a runaway. What do you think?
>Jim
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
><chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Jim
>> What is your plan of action if a button should stick on either grip? Pull
>the breaker or fuse?
>> Charlie
>>
>> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
><jrstone@insightbb.com>
>> >
>> >Charlie,
>> >I plan on using the Infinity grips, they are similar to what I used in
>the
>> >Navy. So, I'm stuck with the extra wiring and relays. I really don't
>> >consider two people trying to trim the aircraft much of a worry. As long
>as
>> >you have a positive change of "pilot flying", there should be only one
>hand
>> >on a stick at a time. Worse case, if I am attempting to trim and nothing
>is
>> >happening or it is going the wrong way, I can just shake the stick and
>> >remind the backseater who has the airplane.
>> >Although wiring the aircraft with the two switches is possibly safer, I
>> >don't think I want to reach down somewhere to flip two switches every I
>take
>> >control or give up control of the aircraft.
>> >Jim
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>> >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim speed control
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
>> ><chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>> >>
>> >> Jim
>> >> Whose stick grips are you planning on using? If you use the new RAC
>305
>> >or 307 grips, you can eliminate the need for relays. The hat switch used
>in
>> >these grips is rated at 15 amps. Typical current through the hat switch
>for
>> >the servos is only 0.5 amp. This reduces wiring complexity as you then
>only
>> >need a (less expensive) speed controller for your trim servos. I looked
>into
>> >the Mac controller, but I do not like the idea that this system allows
>for
>> >"first come, first serve" control of the flaps and trim servos. I prefer
>to
>> >use a 3 position toggle switch to control who's stick grip is "live" at
>any
>> >time.
>> >> This method has the advantage of giving the pilot positive control
>over
>> >who is controlling the flaps and trim at any time. The third position
>(OFF)
>> >allows the flaps and trim to be disabled if need be. I can email you a
>copy
>> >of my flap wiring schematic if you care to see it.
>> >> Charlie Kuss
>> >>
>> >> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
>> ><jrstone@insightbb.com>
>> >> >
>> >> >I would like to have two speeds to run my Mac servo on my elevator
>trim
>> >tab. I plan to use the Matronics Governor to allow two sticks to be
>wired
>> >together and to control the trim speed.
>> >> >A search of the archives came up with this post from Bob N.
>> >> >However,the link no longer works. Does anyone know of schematic for
>the
>> >above need? In particular, I like the flap position controlled switch.
>> >> >Thanks,
>> >> >Jim
>> >> >HRII
>> >> >
>> >> > I've published a schematic for a trim speed regulator
>> >> > installation at:
>> >> >
>> >> > http://209.134.106.21/articles/trim/trim4.pdf
>> >> >
>> >> > The speed control switch could be panel mounted -OR-
>> >> > a microswitch on the flap mechanism to switch to low
>> >> > speed ops when flaps are fully retracted.
>> >> >
>> >> > I'm modifying the dimmer boards that B&C uses in
>> >> > the DIM series lighting controllers to accept potentiometers
>> >> > right on the board . . . this will allow the full range
>> >> > of dimmer assemblies to be used as adjustable, constant
>> >> > voltage sources for trim speed, CD players, etc.
>> >> >
>> >> > Bob . . .
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Message 43
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net>
Have Bob Robertson, a Canadian Rotax dealer and repairperson, make a few
comments here: there is a known failure, or lack of longevity, in the stock
Rotax supplied, or Ducati regulator as shipped with the older models.......
not sure about the later (BlueHeads) models of the 582. Bob can be reached
at "Light Engines Service Ltd.", in St. Albert, Alberta, Canada, at
aerocon1@telusplanet.net. He has joined in on the Avid and Kitfox (probably
others) forums with great experience and good advice many times............
most of us actually carry a spare regulator knowing that eventually the
stocker is going to weaken, or fail.
Sid
Alpena, Michigan
N204S
------------------------
My friend Jerome Delamare is completing a thermal survey of the Rotax
rectifier/regulator and a possible replacement, the Schicke GR 4.
Jerome is a reasercher at the Institut National Polytechnique de Grenoble
(France)
The final report is still to come, but here is an excerpt of a recent
message he posted on a French homebuilder list.
He agreed to let me make a quick translation of the relevant text for the
Aeroelectric Connection.
I'd be glad to forward him any questions regarding his study.
Feel free to correct my English.
Regards,
Gilles
Translation :
"When I read the Rotax documentation I nearly had a fit. It specifies the
ambient maximum temperature is 90B0C. Even without any measurements this
seemed doubtful.
Since that we have characterized the regulator. I lack time to write a full
report at the moment but here is a short abstract.
- At nominal output, ie at 240 W, the regulator dissipates 80 W (actually
measured)
- Thermal resistance between the regulator heat sink and and the ambient
atmosphere, measured at sea level, is 2B0C/W.
- In a simplified way, one can add a series thermal resistance of 0,3B0C/W
to obtain the junction temperature.
- Junction temperature must not exceed 125B0C
Conclusion : in order to work at nominal output the ambient temperature at
sea level must not exceed :
125 - 80*(2+ 0,3) - 59B0C
Even in Siberia the thing may toast if used at nominal output !
Many among you may think "mine never toasted". Two reasons :
- Many use but one tenth of the nominal power advertised by ROTAX.
- It takes 45 min for the regulator to reach it's max temperature (thermal
time constant on the order of 15 min)
With a PC type fan, the regulator heat sink thermal resistance drops to
about 0,5B0C/W. At sea level and nominal output, the ambiant temprerature
should stay below :
125-80*(0,5+0,3) + 61B0C
You'll get out of the airplane before that limit !"
Original French text :
*****************************************************************************
***********
"En lisant la doc Rotax il y a quelques temps, j'ai failli prendre une
attaque. On y lit que la tempE9rature ambiante max est de 90B0C. Sans
mesures, E7a semblait dE9jE0 peut crE9dible.
Depuis, nous avons caractE9risE9 le rE9gulateur. Je n'ai pas le temps de
tout rE9diger en ce moment mais voici un rE9sumE9 :
- A la puissance nominale, c'est-E0-dire 240W, le rE9gulateur dissipe 80W
(mesurE9).
- La rE9sistance thermique entre le radiateur du rE9gulateur et l'ambiante
mesurE9e au niveau de la mer, est de 2B0C/W.
- En simplifiant un peu, on peut rajouter en sE9rie une rE9sistance
thermique de 0,3B0C/W pour obtenir la tempE9rature de jonction.
- La tempE9rature de jonction ne doit pas dE9passer 125B0C
Conclusion, pour pouvoir fonctionner au nominal, au niveau de la mer, la
tempE9rature ambiante ne doit pas dE9passer :
125 - 80*(2+ 0,3) - 59B0C
MEAme en SibE9rie le bidule risque de cramer si vous l'utilisez E0 son
rE9gime nominal !
Beaucoup d'entre vous doivent se dire : AB le mien n'a jamais cramE9 ! BB
Deux raisons E0 cela :
- Beaucoup ne consomment que le dixiE8me de la puissance nominale
annoncE9e par ROTAX.
- Il faut 45 min pour que le rE9gulateur atteigne sa tempE9rature
max (constante de temps thermique d'environ 15 min).
Avec un ventilateur de PC, la rE9sistance thermique du radiateur du
rE9gulateur tombe E0 environ 0,5B0C/W.
Au niveau de la mer et au rE9gime nominal, la tempE9rature ambiante ne
doit pas dE9passer :
125-80*(0,5+0,3) + 61B0C
Vous serez descendu de l'avion avant !"
[...]
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Winston Ellis <w1mdi@cox-internet.com>
"Eric M. Jones" wrote:
> Simply have another tiny reference circuit that is a capacitive fuel sensor
> that is always submerged. The rest is simple for a rocket scientist.
The manufacturer I spoke to said he has thought of doing just that, have a
reference cap in the bottom of the tank, but figured that it would make the whole
system too expensive. It seems like this will be necessary if these probes are
going to work with auto fuel.
Winston Ellis
Zenith 701/uzuki
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Brian,
>
> Good to see you back on one of Matt's lists. I see you moved. Must be an
> interesting story there.
Well, I never left the Yak-list as I still own a CJ6 (project) but my flying/building
has been substantially reduced as I focused on a new business and an unplanned
sailboat "re engineering". (Why is it that I find it necessary to redesign
the electrical systems of vehicles I own?)
> The Blue Mountain EFIS/one that I am installing has both the capacitive fuel
> level sensors and a fuel totalizer that uses the fuel flow to keep track of
> the fuel burn rate and fuel on-board. From the manual, "As you fly, this
> number (fuel on-board) will be updated to show the current computed fuel
> level. This number should substantially agree with what is shown on your
> fuel level sensors but is not a measurement of the fuel level sensors. The
> number shown as fuel on-board is calculated based upon the initial fuel
> entered and the fuel used as read from the calibrated fuel flow sensor(s)."
My CJ6A project is going to have the Blue Mountain EFIS for both cockpits so I
am very interested in your comments and opinion. My biggest problem will be monitoring
all 9 cylinders. For some reason engine monitors seem to expect an
even number of cylinders when everyone knows that real aircraft engines have an
odd number of cylinders unless they have multiple cylinder banks. ;-)
A properly-calibrated totalizer will tell you much more accurately how much fuel
you have used than will your gauges. If you have 32 gal of fuel, you have flown
for two hours with an engine that burns 8 gal/hr, the totalizer says you
have 16 gal remaining, and the gauges say 1/2, all is well. It is when things
don't agree that you start to worry.
I made a precautionary landing in my Comanche one night because I had an anomalous
reading on one fuel gauge. Everything else seemed normal but if the gauge
were correct, I could not make it to my destination. So I landed and checked.
It turned out to be a good thing because the fuel cap (one of those thermos-bottle
expanding rubber things) had not sealed properly and the fuel had vented
overboard. A totalizer would have told me nothing except that the engine had
burned what I expected.
This gets back to what Bob and I were saying about indicators. They don't always
tell you what you think they are telling you. A light connected to the fuel
pump switch tells you that the switch is good, not that there is power to the
fuel pump. A light across the terminals to the fuel pump tells you that the
pump is receiving voltage but not whether it is running. A current-sensing relay
tells you that the pump is drawing power but not if it is pumping fuel.
A fuel pressure switch or gauge will tell you if the pump is providing pressure
but not if there is any flow into the fuel-metering system of the engine (carb
or injection system). A fuel flow meter will tell you if there is fuel flow
to the engine compartment but not if fuel is leaking from the tanks. You have
to know your systems to know what your gauges and indicators are telling you.
(BTW, Bob N. is one of the few guys I have met who really thinks this stuff through.)
But for daily flying, nothing beats a totalizer. Having the time-to-empty displayed
on the totalizer and the time-to-go displayed on the GPS gives you a really
good idea of whether or not you will make it to your destination with safe
fuel reserves long before it becomes an issue and when you still have a lot more
options for stopping and refueling. That last 100mi leg across the desert
is not the time to figure out you won't make it to your destination and you won't
make it back to the last airport you overflew. The totalizer takes the pucker-factor
out of in-flight decisions when winds aloft are not as forecast.
(And yes, I know this from experience in my RV-4.)
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Trim speed control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Jim Stone wrote:
> Well you got me there. Perhaps a normally closed switch with an emergency
> position of open would solve that emergency. That way the switch on the
> panel never gets used except for a runaway. What do you think?
I think that is just something else to go wrong. You can bump it, drop something
on it, etc. I like the pull-able breaker or fuse idea myself.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: ND alternator terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Ron Triano wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Triano" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
>
> This page may help you id the terminals.
> http://www.mrreman.com/downloadsgateway/TECH/MRTSB-TECH-006.htm
Good reference. I wish I had known about that a year ago when I was working on
the alternators in my boat.
As an additional point, many internally-regulated alternators are "self exciting"
in that residual magnetism in the armature will generate enough power to turn-on
the regulator and start providing field current. The alternator then "bootstraps"
itself into producing full output.
But sometimes that requires that you turn the alternator pretty fast. On my previous
CJ6A it has a self-exciting internally-regulated truck alternator (28V/60A)
that didn't self-excite until I turned the engine up to about 2000 RPM.
After that it was fine even at idle. My alternator wouldn't come on line until
run-up or until I goosed it pretty good.
The work-around is to hook up the idiot-light (alternator not working light) circuit.
In some cases the internal regulator can use a switched line from the
battery to power the regulator but many times it uses the idiot-light circuit
to do the same thing. Before the alternator provides any output the idiot-light
provides power to the input of the regulator and the light comes on. When
the output from the stator is high enough, the regulator gets its input from the
diode-trio so there is no current through the idiot-light anymore and the light
goes off.
But this gets back to that "be sure you know what you are measuring" thing. If
the output diodes in the alternator fail, it is possible for the light to go
out and yet there still be no alternator output because the regulator gets its
power from the diode trio.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
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