Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:44 AM - Re: Starting Rotax 582 & Odyssey battery (Eric M. Jones)
2. 09:00 AM - starter solenoid ()
3. 09:57 AM - Re: starter solenoid (Jim Stone)
4. 08:05 PM - Re: permanent magnet alternator question (Brian Lloyd)
5. 08:28 PM - Re: Re: Starting Rotax 582 & Odyssey battery (Brian Lloyd)
6. 08:36 PM - Fw: LED flashlights (David Carter)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starting Rotax 582 & Odyssey battery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw"
<rexjan@bigpond.com>
Rex,
>Wet cells lose charge quickly standing idle. The Odyssey takes much longer.
Odyssey also cranks much
>better due to type of cell.
Bob would say, "So where is your test that shows this to be true?" (I would
say the same thing, but evoking Bob's name add a certain credence....)
>Also the Ducatti CDI's don't fire until 300RPM and it seems that this is
the basis of the problem.
What kind of starter is THAT? If that were true generally, half the stuff in
my backyard would never start. Where's the switch that changes it to 30RPM?
This makes little sense.
If you search Google for "Ducati CDI" (Ducati is spelled with ONE "t") you
will get 40,000 hits. Lots of info there.
Also, you don't mention a primer or a choke. Does the little beastie have
anything to make starting easier?
>Am I falsely biassed towards the Odyssey ? Well no I don't think so.
I do. Let's assume the Hawker Odyssey Battery is the BEST DANGED BATTERY IN
THE UNIVERSE. The right course of action is not to get the BDBITU so you can
light your engine. This does not seem a proper approach at all.
> I can see with my own eyes what one does in our club Jabiru trainer apart
from
>studying cell charicteristics and Odyssey owners comments.
So what are you going to believe, the aeroelectric list or your "lyin'
eyes"?
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"The Okies moving to California raised the average IQ of both states."
---Will Rogers
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | starter solenoid |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
5/26/2004
Here is part of a previous posting from Jim:
<< ...skip....2. The second method is to eliminate the starter solenoid in method
one and run the wire with no breaks all the way to the starter. From the starter
it could then move a foot or so to the right to catch the alternator B lead.
This method allows for fewer connections and a lot less #2 wire forward of
the
firewall. I'm assuming the solenoid attached to the starter would control the current
going to the starter (following selection of the starter button). Thanks,
Jim>>
5/26/2004
Hello Jim, I don't accept your assumption about the solenoid located at the starter.
There are many modern starters that do include a solenoid on the starter itself.
This solenoid, depending upon starter design, can both control electricity to
the starter motor and extension and retraction of the starter spur gear which
cranks the engine.
But these designs require that starter motor current be applied to an electrical
lug on the starter itself in order for the starter mounted solenoid to do its
thing. This means that you must have either a separate starter solenoid activated
by a much lower current starting switch located on the instrument panel
(most common) or a massive mechanical switch to turn on and apply the high current
required by the starter motor (much less common).
It is unfortunate that when the term "starter solenoid" is thrown around that people
do not realize that there can be two differen starter solenoids involved
in one installation and that they perform different functions.
Distinguishing which starter solenoid people are referring to when they write would
help keep things clearer.
OC
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: starter solenoid |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Thanks OC for your comment,
I spoke to Bill at B&C yesterday and he recommend using a separate contactor
to control the starter for safety reasons. He said I could locate the
contactor on either side of the firewall and to use an ANL on the B line as
it returns to the hot side of this contactor. I am providing this
additional info for the benefit of the group.
Jim
HRII
Wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: starter solenoid
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
> 5/26/2004
>
> Here is part of a previous posting from Jim:
>
>
> << ...skip....2. The second method is to eliminate the starter solenoid in
method one and run the wire with no breaks all the way to the starter. From
the starter it could then move a foot or so to the right to catch the
alternator B lead. This method allows for fewer connections and a lot less
#2 wire forward of the
> firewall. I'm assuming the solenoid attached to the starter would control
the current going to the starter (following selection of the starter
button). Thanks,
> Jim>>
>
> 5/26/2004
>
> Hello Jim, I don't accept your assumption about the solenoid located at
the starter.
>
> There are many modern starters that do include a solenoid on the starter
itself. This solenoid, depending upon starter design, can both control
electricity to the starter motor and extension and retraction of the starter
spur gear which cranks the engine.
>
> But these designs require that starter motor current be applied to an
electrical lug on the starter itself in order for the starter mounted
solenoid to do its thing. This means that you must have either a separate
starter solenoid activated by a much lower current starting switch located
on the instrument panel (most common) or a massive mechanical switch to turn
on and apply the high current required by the starter motor (much less
common).
>
> It is unfortunate that when the term "starter solenoid" is thrown around
that people do not realize that there can be two differen starter solenoids
involved in one installation and that they perform different functions.
> Distinguishing which starter solenoid people are referring to when they
write would help keep things clearer.
>
> OC
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: permanent magnet alternator question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Trampas wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
> For PM alternators there are two types of regulators, linear and non-linear.
> Linear regulators can be further divided into series and shunt regulators.
>
> A shut regulator dumps extra power. ... It dumps the power back to
> ground when voltage gets too high. The problem with this solution is
> that you have to make sure your valve/zener can handle the maximum
> flow (power) of the pump (PM alternator). This gets really expensive
> with zeners as really high power zener's are expensive.
OTOH, you can make a shunt regulator using a shunt transistor to act as the load
element and then you can use a little-bitty reference (zener diode if you will).
And the box would probably need fins to dissipate the heat.
P.S. The discussion about fearing one's government is quite interesting. Not really
appropriate to this list but still interesting. BTW, this comes from someone
who has been on the receiving end of heavy-handed government bureaucrats
who have no checks or balances. It sure does suck.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starting Rotax 582 & Odyssey battery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Eric M. Jones wrote:
>>Wet cells lose charge quickly standing idle. The Odyssey takes much longer.
>
> Odyssey also cranks much
>
>>better due to type of cell.
>
>
> Bob would say, "So where is your test that shows this to be true?" (I would
> say the same thing, but evoking Bob's name add a certain credence....)
Actually, this is pretty well known to people who work with rechargeable batteries.
Battery chemistry determines the self-discharge rate. The gell-cells I
have worked with tend to have a lower self-discharge rate than the standard lead-antimony
flooded cell. I haven't researched the self-discharge rates of lead-calcium
batteries since I tend to work with big deep-cycle battery banks used
for alternative power and UPS applications and they don't usually use lead-calcium
batteries. A lead-acid battery will also self-discharge more quickly
at higher temperatures.
As for cranking, different batteries have different internal resistance characteristics.
The newer crop of rolled AGMs like the Odyssey have very low internal
resistance even under partial discharge and will still crank well. (A partially
discharged LA battery has a higher internal resistance and suffers from a
greater voltage drop under load.)
The manufacturer also claims better charge retention, i.e. less self discharge.
I would presume that they are being truthful in their advertising but can't
make a claim either way.
So, yes, I strongly suspect that the Odyssey battery will perform differently than
the run-of-the-mill flooded-cell LA battery.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
"aeroelectric-list" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Fw: LED flashlights |
2.4 MONEY_MAKING BODY: Discusses money making
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I know we have some tinkerers on these lists so I thought I should pass on
the prompt and kindly reply of Wayne, of Electrolumens.com
My e-mail to him is at bottom. Looks like he's had a lot of fun with this
sideline (see 2nd link, at bottom of his reply). His prices are a bit high
for me, but he also sells parts to hobbyists/tinkerers - so he's not "too
proud" or "too proprietary oriented" to help someone.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <elektrolumens@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: LED flashlights
> See this link of a modified flashlight I make, called the Anglelux:
>
> http://elektrolumens.com/AngleLux/AngleLux.html
>
>
> This light might be good for aviation, as it has the different lens
> colors. I make them with a single LED, and with the dual LED
> setup.
> I do it as it is interesting and provides work for a help of
> mine, so he can make a little money too.
>
> For using LEDs, you just need to pay attention to the voltage
> requirements of the LED. For the Luxeon LED, you also need to
> pay attention to sinking the heat from the LED.
>
> In the Anglelux, I use a switch in one model to go from a single to
> dual LEDs. It could also be done with a single LED and a switch for
> low power/high power, so when you're in a small area or reading a
> map, you can cut the power down.
>
> Just some suggestons.
>
> I use the genuine Fulton Industries anglehead flashlights in my
> Anglelux. I also have some generic ones, which I cannot use. You
> can have one for minimal cost, if you want one. They work just as
> good, but my customers insist on the American made quality
> product. I also have the Fulton Anglheads, if you want one of those,
> which you can modify yourself. I normally do not sell the flashlight
> like this. I can also throw in the needed heat sink. You'll have to do
> the rest.
>
> Here's a link to flashlights I've modified in the past, for your
> amusement:
>
> http://elektrolumens.com/Modified_Flashlights.html
>
>
> Wayne
> ==============================================
> On 26 May 2004 at 9:45, David Carter wrote:
>
> > Your website was mentioned on a home-built aircraft e-mail forum. I
> > spent a long time in Wal-Mart last month looking at LED flashlights -
> > all but 1 (MagLite) were made in China. I don't buy anything made in
> > China.
> >
> > I'm not in law enforcement or military, so don't need a superbright
> > flashlight. However, I am a pilot, fly at night and on instruments,
> > so need a flashlight with LONG battery life and just average - or less
> > - light "power".
> >
> > I'd think a single NmH AA or AAA battery ought to power a small LED
> > for a "long" time - smaller flashlight is "better" for holding in my
> > mouth or velcro'ing to a mounting pad to shine on instrument panel.
> >
> > Tight beam is probably NOT best for looking at a map or illuminating
> > several instruments on the panel.
> >
> > Any suggestions? I am building my own RV-6 from a kit and am doing
> > all my own electrical work and have experience as a flight simulator
> > repairman (old tube type thing in 1960), so I have some experience
> > soldering and have all the good solder and devices, heat shrink, etc.
> > I have saved some e-mails from the Aeroelectric List that tell how to
> > size the resistors for any particular LED. Seems like "optics head"
> > and the "case & switch" will be the keys to making my own light. I
> > have a "bread board" for prototyping from Radio Shack.
> >
> > Since you seem to be kind enough to make your parts available for the
> > "flashlight hobbyist", may I ask if you have any suggestions of parts
> > for me to make my own "little flashlight"
> >
> > I am also a Scoutmaster and family camper. I need a more normal "2 D
> > cell" type flashlight for my back pack - and for emergency use in my
> > two cars. Is conversion of a std 2 D cell flashlight to LED feasible?
> > Any suggestions for parts for thist?
> >
> > Not trying to take your time away from "real money makers", so hope
> > you don't find my questions bothersome. I'll certainly appreciate any
> > time you can spare to respond to this.
> >
> > David Carter
> > 409-722-7259
> > dcarter@datarecall.net
> > 619 S. 16th St.
> > Nederland, Texas 77627
> >
> >
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|