AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 06/01/04


Total Messages Posted: 25



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:42 AM - Re: Light potentiometer ? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 07:28 AM - Re: Rocker Switch Problems (Scott Diffenbaugh)
     3. 07:42 AM - Odd Transmission (William Yamokoski)
     4. 08:34 AM - Bob Nuckols' loadmeter/voltmeter (Brian Lloyd)
     5. 08:58 AM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage (Brian Lloyd)
     6. 09:24 AM - Re: Light potentiometer ? (George Braly)
     7. 11:40 AM - Stress to alterantors while cranking? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 11:45 AM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower (Ralph E. Capen)
     9. 12:23 PM - Re: Rocker Switch Problems (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 12:55 PM - Toggle Switches (frequent flyer)
    11. 01:10 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage (Brian Lloyd)
    12. 01:21 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage  (Eric M. Jones)
    13. 01:32 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage (klehman@albedo.net)
    14. 02:36 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    15. 02:41 PM - Re: Toggle Switches (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    16. 02:58 PM - Re: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower (Brian Lloyd)
    17. 03:29 PM - Re: Toggle Switches (frequent flyer)
    18. 03:30 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus (McFarland, Randy)
    19. 06:27 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    20. 07:02 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lowervoltage (Robert McCallum)
    21. 07:33 PM - Alternator Control Z-14 (Richard Sipp)
    22. 09:01 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus  (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    23. 09:59 PM - Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lowervoltage (Robert McCallum)
    24. 11:11 PM - Re: Aero Electric-List: permanent magnet alternator question (Franz Fux)
    25. 11:31 PM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:42:11 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Light potentiometer ?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 01:08 PM 5/31/2004 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net> > >Yesterday I took apart my old Turn & Bank Coordinator (a little sping >connecting the gyro with the indicator had popped loose). > >I knew it had an "auto-pilot" sensor built into it, but I'd never used >that nor looked at it before. > >What I found was a wierd part I'd not seen before: > >It works as a potentiometer, but I don't understand how it works. I'll try >to describe it: > >Two parallel strips (probably on some base material like glass). >One strip has wires connected at each end (0 and 10 Volts). >The other strip just one wire (output). >The "arm" "connecting" the two strips is a LED (mounted on the gyro) with >no physical connection to the strips (Actually the LED is mounted inside a >plastic tube). >An oddity is that the output did vary even with the LED off as the gyro >was moved. There's a note on the housing saying to only test/calibrate >with the housing on (I suppose to remove ambient light. > >Anybody know what such a potentiometer is called and how it works? > >Photocell potentiometer? Sure . . . there have been several variations on this theme. One of the earliest no-friction sensors I've seen using optics was for the altitude hold feature in an autopilot. A mirror mounted on a barograph capsule would reflect a beam of light more or less upon two closely spaced photocells. To hold altitude, a valve stopped off a passage to the interior of the capsule so that it would expand as altitude increased, contract as it decreased. Variability of the light on two photocells was interpreted as a climb-descent signal to the pitch servo loop. Without seeing your example in more detail, the best guess I'd offer for it's operation is that the potentiometer element (wires attached to both ends) is "tapped" by a light sensitive area between the two strips (cadmium sulfide?). Light falling on the space between the two stripes causes a strong drop in resistance at that point effectively closing a connection between the potentiometer and the "wiper" conductor. Bob . . .


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:28:34 AM PST US
    From: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
    Subject: Re: Rocker Switch Problems
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net> Just received my engraved rocker switch operators (plastic covers) for my illuminated Honeywell (Micro Switch) Double Pole AML34FBA4AC01 (15A resistive @ 12v DC) panel switches. Since the switches are low on the panel, I had the engraving done on the lower half per Aircraft Engravers recommendation. Turns out the internal light bulb only illuminates one half of the operator, which happens to be the top half with the switch mounted conventionally (push top for on and bottom for off). Any suggestions? There is a lot more to the story, so if you are interested, read on. Aircraft Engravers sells and engraves the operators (plastic covers), but does not sell the switches, thus refers you to a distributor. Prior to ordering same, I obtained Honeywell's data sheet showing six terminals with ON-ON positions, i.e. the switch could be rotated 180 degrees, placing the light bulb on either the upper or lower face. I also received a copy of Honeywell's technical representative's e-mail confirming the switch has 6 terminals. They have now confirmed that both pieces of information are incorrect and in fact the switch has 4 switch terminals (2 pole single throw) plus an independent light circuit. When I brought this to Aircraft Engravers attention, they were dumfounded, having engraved hundreds of operators on the lower half with no mention of my problem. They suggested I post this message. Am I overlooking the obvious? Options considered so far: Engrave upper half - difficult to read upper half when switch is in OFF position due to location on bottom of panel. Install switch upside down - this would work but I am afraid of a potential "John Denver" result and I don't think the FAA inspector would like it. Find another DPDT ON-ON switch with 6 terminals- Panel is cut, final wiring near complete (except for switches), can't find a switch the same size. Modify the switch to let bulb light reach the bottom half - cut and drilled the switch mechanism to no avail. Light won't transfer. Use Honeywell's 3 amp switch with 6 terminals and add solid state relays-I would need 7 relays (out of 12) and would like to avoid the complexity. Turn on cockpit light - Everything on panel is internally lit. No plans for a cockpit light other than battery backup flashlight. I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on this matter. Thank you, Scott Diffenbaugh RV7A IFR panel diff@foothill.net Scott Diffenbaugh diff@foothill.net


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:42:52 AM PST US
    From: "William Yamokoski" <yamokosk@lakemichigancollege.edu>
    Subject: Odd Transmission
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Yamokoski" <yamokosk@lakemichigancollege.edu> Hi Folks, Haven't been on this list for a while....too busy having fun flying :) I have a question concerning an intermittent problem I experience. For example, a few days ago I was at 2500' making a position report while flying near a small airport. After my transmission, one pilot said he could not understand my report, the transmission was too garbeled and gravelly. Two other pilots immediately chimed in and said they heard me fine. The first pilot communicated fine with the other two pilots, and I heard all of them fine. This is not the only time this has happened. How is it possible for this to happen? I have a MicroAir 760, with a copper strip dipole antenna bonded to the inner surface of the vertical stabilizer of my GlaStar. Could it be positional? On the ground, I have someone transmit over my radio while I walk around with a handheld. I've never been able to pick up any transmission difference no matter where I am relative to the plane. Any ideas on this? Thanks in advance for any help here. It's no fun flying around wondering who is hearing you and who is not. Bill Yamokoski, N4970Y 285 hours on the Eggen-Soob GlaStar


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:34:05 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Bob Nuckols' loadmeter/voltmeter
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> Bob, You used to have a loadmeter/voltmeter combo you were selling. Do you still offer that product? -- Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802 +1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax) There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:58:01 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> Treff, Arthur wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" <Arthur.Treff@smartm.com> > > I've wired my RV-8 per appx Z-13 "All electric plane on a budget", with the > main bus feeding the Ess bus thru the B&C diode. With a 13.8 power supply > (delivers up to 23 amps, constant voltage) on the main bus, I show 12.7 > volts on the main bus fuse outputs. When I switch off the main bus, and > switch on the Ess bus, power is now thru the Battery bus thru a fuseable > link and switch. The ess bus fuse outputs show 13.8 volts. The only thing > I can think of is I must be using the wrong poles of the diode. IT has 4 > teminals, and I thought I had the two correct ones. Any thoughts? Yes. Get rid of the diode bridge and substitute a schottky power diode. The voltage drop will be much less, on the order of 0.2V to 0.3V. That is what I did in my RV-4. Bob and I have argued about the efficacy of schottky vs. silicon diode bridges several times. It seems we are never likely to be in agreement on this topic. -- Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802 +1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax) There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:24:34 AM PST US
    Subject: Light potentiometer ?
    From: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com> Bob, This part is apparently used in several T & B type instruments. It is some type of photo-potentiometer. LED shines on the strip and the output voltage is proportional to the location on the strip of the light beam - - from one end to the other. I have looked around trying to find a source, and have never found the manufacturer. Regards, George -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Light potentiometer ? --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 01:08 PM 5/31/2004 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net> > >Yesterday I took apart my old Turn & Bank Coordinator (a little sping >connecting the gyro with the indicator had popped loose). > >I knew it had an "auto-pilot" sensor built into it, but I'd never used >that nor looked at it before. > >What I found was a wierd part I'd not seen before: > >It works as a potentiometer, but I don't understand how it works. I'll try >to describe it: > >Two parallel strips (probably on some base material like glass). >One strip has wires connected at each end (0 and 10 Volts). >The other strip just one wire (output). >The "arm" "connecting" the two strips is a LED (mounted on the gyro) with >no physical connection to the strips (Actually the LED is mounted inside a >plastic tube). >An oddity is that the output did vary even with the LED off as the gyro >was moved. There's a note on the housing saying to only test/calibrate >with the housing on (I suppose to remove ambient light. > >Anybody know what such a potentiometer is called and how it works? > >Photocell potentiometer? Sure . . . there have been several variations on this theme. One of the earliest no-friction sensors I've seen using optics was for the altitude hold feature in an autopilot. A mirror mounted on a barograph capsule would reflect a beam of light more or less upon two closely spaced photocells. To hold altitude, a valve stopped off a passage to the interior of the capsule so that it would expand as altitude increased, contract as it decreased. Variability of the light on two photocells was interpreted as a climb-descent signal to the pitch servo loop. Without seeing your example in more detail, the best guess I'd offer for it's operation is that the potentiometer element (wires attached to both ends) is "tapped" by a light sensitive area between the two strips (cadmium sulfide?). Light falling on the space between the two stripes causes a strong drop in resistance at that point effectively closing a connection between the potentiometer and the "wiper" conductor. Bob . . . == == == ==


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:40:31 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Stress to alterantors while cranking?
    <5.0.0.25.2.20040531152110.01116950@pop.central.cox.net> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 11:06 AM 6/1/2004 -0400, you wrote: >Thank you for your reply. The concern was based more about what appears >to be almost a "dead short" across the diodes because of the large current >draw from the starter and also the torque load on the alternator coupling >and bearings during engine start with the fields on. It would seem that >the "dead short" across the alternator output would have some impact on >alternator diode life from this repeated stress. The 'dead short' doesn't exist. While the starter is cranking, battery voltage generally falls to about 2/3 the battery's rated voltage. During this same period of time, the alternator's field is supplied by the very same voltage and being rotated by starter at 1/10th cruise rpm . . . i.e., output from alternator is MUCH less than 2/3 battery voltage. So, while one might measure a volt or so output from the alternator's b-lead terminal while cranking, you'd have to DISCONNECT the b-lead to make the measurement. The battery is holding the terminal voltage up at a much higher magnitude than would exist if the b-lead were disconnected and observed as an independent power source. Bottom line is that except for a bit of field current, there is NO exchange of energy between the alternator and the rest of the system while the starter motor is working. The hypothesized "stress" is a complete myth. Anyone who suggests differently simply doesn't understand how components of the system work. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------- ( Experience and common sense cannot be ) ( replaced with policy and procedures. ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) -----------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:45:40 AM PST US
    From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower
    voltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> Brian, Please provide some info on where to purchase the Schottky power diode. I already have the B&C diode bridge and would like to experience the difference. Thanks, Ralph Capen -----Original Message----- From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> Treff, Arthur wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" <Arthur.Treff@smartm.com> > > I've wired my RV-8 per appx Z-13 "All electric plane on a budget", with the > main bus feeding the Ess bus thru the B&C diode. With a 13.8 power supply > (delivers up to 23 amps, constant voltage) on the main bus, I show 12.7 > volts on the main bus fuse outputs. When I switch off the main bus, and > switch on the Ess bus, power is now thru the Battery bus thru a fuseable > link and switch. The ess bus fuse outputs show 13.8 volts. The only thing > I can think of is I must be using the wrong poles of the diode. IT has 4 > teminals, and I thought I had the two correct ones. Any thoughts? Yes. Get rid of the diode bridge and substitute a schottky power diode. The voltage drop will be much less, on the order of 0.2V to 0.3V. That is what I did in my RV-4. Bob and I have argued about the efficacy of schottky vs. silicon diode bridges several times. It seems we are never likely to be in agreement on this topic. -- Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802 +1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax) There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:23:01 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Rocker Switch Problems
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 07:26 AM 6/1/2004 -0700, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" ><diff@foothill.net> > >Just received my engraved rocker switch operators (plastic covers) for my >illuminated Honeywell (Micro Switch) Double Pole AML34FBA4AC01 (15A >resistive @ 12v DC) panel switches. Since the switches are low on the panel, >I had the engraving done on the lower half per Aircraft Engravers >recommendation. Turns out the internal light bulb only illuminates one half >of the operator, which happens to be the top half with the switch mounted >conventionally (push top for on and bottom for off). Any suggestions? > > There is a lot more to the story, so if you are interested, read on. >Aircraft Engravers sells and engraves the operators (plastic covers), but >does not sell the switches, thus refers you to a distributor. Prior to >ordering same, I obtained Honeywell's data sheet showing six terminals with >ON-ON positions, i.e. the switch could be rotated 180 degrees, placing the >light bulb on either the upper or lower face. Which data sheet are you looking at? The Honeywell website data sheet I found is http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/manual/catalog/c30035.pdf If you dissect the part number cited above we deduce as follows: AML34F = rectangular 1-lamp circuit B = black A = no lamp installed 4 = .187" solder/fast-on terminal AC = two form A switches 01 = operating action is ON-OFF (maintained in both states) If the switch has six terminals, then perhaps two of them are not used since the "A" value for lamp suggests there is no lamp installed in the parts you have. You need a "C" part for 12v lamp, or "E" for a 28v lamp. > I also received a copy of >Honeywell's technical representative's e-mail confirming the switch has 6 >terminals. They have now confirmed that both pieces of information are >incorrect and in fact the switch has 4 switch terminals (2 pole single >throw) plus an independent light circuit. That jives with the data sheet I've cited above. > When I brought this to Aircraft >Engravers attention, they were dumfounded, having engraved hundreds of >operators on the lower half with no mention of my problem. They suggested I >post this message. Am I overlooking the obvious? The data sheet does indicate that only the upper half of the switch is illuminated. > Options considered so far: > Engrave upper half - difficult to read upper half when > switch is in OFF >position due to location on bottom of panel. > > Install switch upside down - this would work but I am > afraid of a >potential "John Denver" result and I don't think the FAA inspector would >like it. More importantly, would YOU like it? How hard is it to get one of these switches apart? You might be able to modify them to put the lamp on the other side . . . better yet, while you're hammer-n-saw'n on them, change over to white or other color leds for illumination. > Find another DPDT ON-ON switch with 6 terminals- Panel is > cut, final >wiring near complete (except for switches), can't find a switch the same >size. > > Modify the switch to let bulb light reach the bottom half > - cut and >drilled the switch mechanism to no avail. Light won't transfer. Hmmm . . . that answers that question . . . > Use Honeywell's 3 amp switch with 6 terminals and add > solid state relays-I >would need 7 relays (out of 12) and would like to avoid the complexity. > > Turn on cockpit light - Everything on panel is internally > lit. No plans >for a cockpit light other than battery backup flashlight. You could go with non-illuminated switches and illuminate a reverse engraved overlay panel. Leds could be used to light this up as well. I saw some Glasair panels years ago that used the TP series rockers from Honeywell. These feature separate operators that you can buy in a translucent white, engrave front faces, and back-light with LEDs or other small lamps. Best yet, the TP series rocker switches are available in all the special functions including progressive transfer. See: http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/12pa5.series.chart.1.pdf http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/printfriendly.asp?FAM=tr&PN=102TP81-10 >I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on this matter. This is an excellent illustration that supports Nuckolls' love affair with toggle switches. There are REALLY great looking products out there that will certainly dress up your panel . . . but at the end of the day, the TASK of opening one set of contacts in favor of closing another set of contacts to make something electrical happen is the same whether it's a $5 toggle switch or a $50, back-lighted rocker. Bob . . .


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:55:39 PM PST US
    From: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Toggle Switches
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com> Bob, I posted a question about keying the toggles while you were away and got some good suggestions but thought I'd post to you again. I have the switches but no plates. Don't need the On/Off plates but would like to keep the switches from rotating. Thought I had remembered a post you made some time ago abut doing this but couldn't find it. Any thoughts? Jack __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/


    Message 11


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    Time: 01:10:42 PM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> Ralph E. Capen wrote: > Please provide some info on where to purchase the Schottky power > diode. I already have the B&C diode bridge and would like to > experience the difference. At the time I was living in Sacramento and drove to Fry's where I purchased one off-the-shelf. Mouser and other on-line parts places have them. See: http://www.mouser.com I used an NTE6083, a 10A diode in a TO-220 case. Mouser's quantity 1 price is $1.60. My [essential|endurance|excreting|eradicating] buss drew about 3A normally and about 6A with the transmitter keyed so that 10A diode was very happy. You need to know the max current draw and then scale your diode accordingly. Here is a list of the NTE devices that might be useful: part # Amps case style ---------------------------------- 6080 10A TO-220 6083 10A TO-220 6085 7.5A (dual) TO-220 6087 30A TO-220 6088 10A (dual) TO-220 6090 15A (dual) TO-218 6092 20A (dual) TO-247 6094 60A DO-5 (stud mount) The NTE6087 at $5.85 seems to be the most attractive/useful. It is spec'd to have a maximum forward voltage drop at 30A of 0.82V at +25C. -- Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802 +1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax) There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:21:14 PM PST US
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> >Please provide some info on where to purchase the Schottky power diode. >I already have the B&C diode bridge and would like to experience the difference. Regular silicon rectifier P-N diodes have been used for 40 years to allow current to flow in only one direction. All diodes have some voltage loss when current flows through them. This is called the voltage drop or forward voltage (Vf). This is important because the heat generated (W=wasted power) when current flows through them is Vf X I. The lost voltage is subtracted from what you started with (Vbus=Vbatt-Vforward). So a P-N diode with a voltage drop of 1.0 Volts (typical of the P-N diodes), and 10 amperes of current will waste 11 Watts of power. This wasted power demands more heatsink and by definition lowers efficiency. A typical Schottky at 10 amps has a forward voltage of 0.34 Volts and thus wastes only 3.4 Watts or so. (Vf is always a function of current) Schottky diodes were originally developed for their high frequency uses. Because of their construction they are not available with simultaneously low Vf AND high reverse voltage, so most Schottky diodes are low voltage devices. If your battery voltage was 100 volts, you wouldn't need a Schottky anyway. But they are absolutely great at typical battery voltage rectification and bus isolation. Battery powered devices use Schottkys to lower energy waste. Bob N. uses a diode to act as a reverse-flow preventer. His use of one leg of a Radio Shack diode bridge is seen by some of his fans as cost effective but perhaps inelegant. We agree to disagree on this subject. I sell lots of the Schottkys packaged in mountable modules "PowerSchottkys". Inside the module is an IR 100BGQ-030 which is a real beast of a diode. I put studs on it and solder it to a heat spreader and pot it in epoxy. Check my website. www.PerihelionDesign.com Regards, Eric M. Jones 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge MA 01550-2705 Phone (508) 764-2072 Email: emjones@charter.net


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:32:04 PM PST US
    From: klehman@albedo.net
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower voltage
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net Art With a 1.1 volt drop I am wondering if you really do have it wired incorrectly such that the current is going through 2 diodes and doubling the voltage drop. Are the terminals marked at all? If you have the load (ess bus) connected to the + pin and the supply connected to the - pin for instance then it would double the drop. If your voltmeter happens to have a diode test setting, you would be able to see this. If the pins are marked I'd suggest connecting the load to the + pin and the supply to one of the AC pins. If it works, great. If it doesn't work then switch the supply to the other AC pin and all should be fine. Ken Treff, Arthur wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" <Arthur.Treff@smartm.com> > > I've wired my RV-8 per appx Z-13 "All electric plane on a budget", with the > main bus feeding the Ess bus thru the B&C diode. With a 13.8 power supply > (delivers up to 23 amps, constant voltage) on the main bus, I show 12.7 > volts on the main bus fuse outputs. When I switch off the main bus, and > switch on the Ess bus, power is now thru the Battery bus thru a fuseable > link and switch. The ess bus fuse outputs show 13.8 volts. The only thing > I can think of is I must be using the wrong poles of the diode. IT has 4 > teminals, and I thought I had the two correct ones. Any thoughts? > > Art


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:36:20 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> voltage
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower
    voltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> voltage See http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s401-25.jpg for details on wiring a bridge-rectifier as an e-bus normal feed diode. Bob . . . At 04:30 PM 6/1/2004 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net > >Art > >With a 1.1 volt drop I am wondering if you really do have it wired >incorrectly such that the current is going through 2 diodes and doubling >the voltage drop. Are the terminals marked at all? If you have the load >(ess bus) connected to the + pin and the supply connected to the - pin >for instance then it would double the drop. If your voltmeter happens to >have a diode test setting, you would be able to see this. > >If the pins are marked I'd suggest connecting the load to the + pin and >the supply to one of the AC pins. If it works, great. If it doesn't work >then switch the supply to the other AC pin and all should be fine. > >Ken >Treff, Arthur wrote: > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" > <Arthur.Treff@smartm.com> > > > > I've wired my RV-8 per appx Z-13 "All electric plane on a budget", with the > > main bus feeding the Ess bus thru the B&C diode. With a 13.8 power supply > > (delivers up to 23 amps, constant voltage) on the main bus, I show 12.7 > > volts on the main bus fuse outputs. When I switch off the main bus, and > > switch on the Ess bus, power is now thru the Battery bus thru a fuseable > > link and switch. The ess bus fuse outputs show 13.8 volts. The only thing > > I can think of is I must be using the wrong poles of the diode. IT has 4 > > teminals, and I thought I had the two correct ones. Any thoughts? > > > > Art > > Bob . . . ----------------------------------------- ( Experience and common sense cannot be ) ( replaced with policy and procedures. ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) -----------------------------------------


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:41:36 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Toggle Switches
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 12:54 PM 6/1/2004 -0700, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com> > >Bob, > >I posted a question about keying the toggles while you >were away and got some good suggestions but thought >I'd post to you again. I have the switches but no >plates. Don't need the On/Off plates but would like to >keep the switches from rotating. Thought I had >remembered a post you made some time ago abut doing >this but couldn't find it. Any thoughts? see http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s700dwg.jpg Switches sold by B&C come with anti-rotation washers. Nearly all switches have a groove machined into the threaded bushing to accept the tab of an anti rotation washer so even if your switches came without them, you can purchase washers only from B&C. These can be used on the back side of the panel to supply the anti-rotation feature while leaving the front of the panel smooth. Bob . . .


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:58:18 PM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lower
    voltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> Eric M. Jones wrote: > Check my website. www.PerihelionDesign.com It doesn't resolve. Did you typo this? -- Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802 +1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax) There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.


    Message 17


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    Time: 03:29:13 PM PST US
    From: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Toggle Switches
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com> Bob, That was what I thought you had said but I wasn't sure where to get the washers. Thanks, Jack do not archive --- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> > to > > see > http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s700dwg.jpg > > Switches sold by B&C come with anti-rotation > washers. > Nearly all switches have a groove machined into > the > threaded bushing to accept the tab of an anti > rotation > washer so even if your switches came without > them, you can > purchase washers only from B&C. > > These can be used on the back side of the panel > to > supply the anti-rotation feature while leaving > the front > of the panel smooth. > > Bob . . . > > > > - > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/


    Message 18


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    Time: 03:30:14 PM PST US
    From: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
    lowervoltage
    Subject: Z-13 power distribution: main bus
    lowervoltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com> Hmm. Bob, that picture shows a different connection method than the one I got from B&C with my Diode. It showed the two terminals adjacent to the E bus tab as being connected together and terminating at the Main Bus. Which is "right" and/or does it make a difference if wired the B&C way? Randy -----Original Message----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net] Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lowervoltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> voltage See http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s401-25.jpg for details on wiring a bridge-rectifier as an e-bus normal feed diode. Bob . . .


    Message 19


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    Time: 06:27:35 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> lowervoltage
    Subject: Z-13 power distribution: main bus
    lowervoltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> lowervoltage At 03:27 PM 6/1/2004 -0700, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy" ><Randy.McFarland@novellus.com> > >Hmm. Bob, that picture shows a different connection method than the one I >got from B&C with my Diode. It showed the two terminals adjacent to the E >bus tab as being connected together and terminating at the Main Bus. Which >is "right" and/or does it make a difference if wired the B&C way? Without seeing exactly what B&C supplied, I'll not venture a guess . . . given that there are 4 diodes in the assembly then there are 4 different ways one could wire it and access any one diode . . . The way I've illustrated in the photo is ONE good way. Bob . . .


    Message 20


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    Time: 07:02:46 PM PST US
    From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lowervoltage
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca> Robert L. Nuckolls, III lowervoltage wrote: > Without seeing exactly what B&C supplied, I'll not venture > a guess . . . given that there are 4 diodes in the assembly then > there are 4 different ways one could wire it and access any > one diode . . . > > The way I've illustrated in the photo is ONE good way. > > Bob . . . > > The method illustrated by B&C parallels two of the diodes rather than using just one. Bob McC


    Message 21


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    Time: 07:33:32 PM PST US
    From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Alternator Control Z-14
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net> Bob: Z-12 (single battery - dual alternator) depicts an alternator control switch for the aux alternator. The primary alternator however appears to be controlled by the battery master switch without an independent field control. Is there an operational logic for this configuration? I am planning the Z-12 configuratin for an RV-10 which has the battery mounted aft of the passenger compartment. I know the ideal battery ground is common to the firewall penetration - engine ground - ground bus connection. With the all metal airframe would you still recommend a rather long fat wire ground connector to the firewall or a local battery ground to the airframe at the aft battery location? Thanks Dick Sipp RV4 250DS RV10 110DV


    Message 22


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    Time: 09:01:29 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> lowervoltage
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus
    lowervoltage --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> lowervoltage At 10:01 PM 6/1/2004 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum ><robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca> > > >Robert L. Nuckolls, III lowervoltage wrote: > > > Without seeing exactly what B&C supplied, I'll not venture > > a guess . . . given that there are 4 diodes in the assembly then > > there are 4 different ways one could wire it and access any > > one diode . . . > > > > The way I've illustrated in the photo is ONE good way. > > > > Bob . . . > > > > >The method illustrated by B&C parallels two of the diodes rather than >using just one. that works too . . . If he's getting 1.1 volts of drop across this arrangement, I'm wondering about the "diodes" in the part. This is too much drop. Bob . . .


    Message 23


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    Time: 09:59:48 PM PST US
    From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: Z-13 power distribution: main bus lowervoltage
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca> > > >>The method illustrated by B&C parallels two of the diodes rather than >>using just one. >> >> > > that works too . . . > > If he's getting 1.1 volts of drop across this arrangement, > I'm wondering about the "diodes" in the part. This is too > much drop. > > Bob . . . > > Almost as though he's got two diodes in series, but not quite enough drop for that. Something does seem amiss Bob McC


    Message 24


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    Time: 11:11:17 PM PST US
    From: "Franz Fux" <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
    Subject: RE: Aero Electric-List: permanent magnet alternator
    question --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Franz Fux" <franz@lastfrontierheli.com> Hi Bob, I am building a RV7 and would like to use you Z11 as the basis for my wiring. I just received my firewall forward kit and with it a Nippondenso, 60amp internally regulated alternator. As I am a total novice when it comes to wiring, even thought I have the connection, I am wondering if I should get a B&C alternator with an voltage regulator or would I be able with my limited knowledge to adapt the unit that I have and still have a good system, Thanks for your help, Franz Fux Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. ---


    Message 25


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    Time: 11:31:38 PM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting]
    DNA: do not archive --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> Dear Lister, Please read over the AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete AeroElectric-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ****************************************************************************** AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines ****************************************************************************** The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List. You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein. Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result in the removal of the subscribers from the List. AeroElectric-List Policy Statement The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established: - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc. - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it. - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and responses. - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address, aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary space in the archive. - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the web page or FAQ first. - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it easy to find threads in the archive. - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive can not be overstated! - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your response to the original poster. You might have to actively address your response with the original poster's email address. - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large. - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly contribute something valuable. - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing. ------- [This is an automated posting.]




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