Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:39 AM - Tying wires, not wire ties (Gary Casey)
2. 06:16 AM - Re: Re: Cont VS Bendix injection systems (Paul Messinger)
3. 06:32 AM - Re: Tying wires, not wire ties (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:39 AM - Re: ND Alternator repair (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:55 AM - Re: Tying wires, not wire ties (erie)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Cont VS Bendix injection systems (Brian Lloyd)
7. 07:05 AM - Re: ND Alternator repair (Eric Ruttan)
8. 07:09 AM - Re: Tying wires, not wire ties (Dennis Golden)
9. 07:54 AM - Re: Tying wires, not wire ties (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
10. 08:25 AM - Re: Tying wires, not wire ties (Chad Robinson)
11. 08:27 AM - Re: Tying wires, not wire ties (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 09:02 AM - Re: OV Module going bad? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 09:33 AM - Transponder connection (Mark Sherman)
14. 09:46 AM - Re Westach tach Sensor (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
15. 10:49 AM - Re: Transponder connection (f1rocket@comcast.net)
16. 12:00 PM - Transponder connection (Mark Sherman)
17. 07:32 PM - Re: ND Alternator repair (Charlie England)
18. 07:39 PM - Re: ND Alternator repair (Ken)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tying wires, not wire ties |
pts rule name description
---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
<<On every plane my partner and I rebuild, I spend anywhere from 10-30
hours retieing the harness, at least then I know the
next person to work on it won't have scarred up hands from the cut ends
of the wire ties, though I've had a lot of people comment
that they haven't seen a tied harness in years and wish more people
would do it.>>
Now that you mention it, I am starting to tie my wire harness, but I don't
know the accepted knot. I have been using a clove hitch followed by an
overhand knot and it looks okay. What is the proper one?
Gary Casey
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cont VS Bendix injection systems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
I will not get into a long reply other than to say that the specific Cont
system I remarked about has a Single speed pump. Its a different cont or
what ever system that have a dual speed pump.
There is NO difference in fuel flow to the engine with or without the aux
pump running (vs the engine driven pump when the engine is running).
Bottom line is the cont system I am talking about had far less hot fuel to
dump out of the engine lines before the starting can occur.
Its not just the hot fuel in the lines to the cyl that boil but even the
fuel in the pumps boil when it gets to the final very low pressure poing
near the cyl injection points
You are talking about different variations with dual speed pumps etc.
In any event the Cont system I had was simple to hot start and the bendix
system I had was very hard to hot start due to the inabilty to flush hot
fuel from the engine.
I will end this discussion with this post as its really off the subject
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Cont VS Bendix injection systems
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> I feel the need to comment on some of Paul's observations regarding the
> Continental vs. "Bendix" fuel injection systems. There is no electrical
> content here, so pardon us:
>
> <<The engine driven pump is a Positive displacement pump and is able to
use
> an
> Aux pump with no change in performance. (no concern about HI or LOW pump
> setting or changes in mixture with aux on or off)
>
> The pump output pressure is independent of altitude or ambient air
> conditions.>>
>
> I believe the opposite is true - the fuel flow in the Bendix system is
> independent of inlet pressure until it is insufficient for full flow
(about
> 15 psi), while the flow in the Continental system is sensitive to inlet
> pressure and there have been accidents caused by the pilot incorrectly
> choosing between high and low boost pump settings. In fact, if the
mixture
> is observed to change when the boost pump is turned on it should be
> considered a defect. One important difference - the fuel flow rate in the
> Continental system is also independent of another thing - the air flow
into
> the engine. The fuel flow in the Bendix system is inherently proportional
> to air flow and independent of engine speed and inlet pressure. The
> Continental system (unless the altitude-compensated version is used) does
> not compensate for air density, while the fuel flow in the Bendix system
is
> proportional to the square root of inlet air density, essentially half
> correcting for altitude and inlet air temperature. And the idle fuel flow
> control is essentially the same in both systems, being a function of
> throttle position, not air flow.
>
> <<The pump has a built in bypass as well as a built-in Vapor separator and
> fuel
> return to the tank requirement. The aux pump can flush and replace hot
fuel
> with cool fuel.
>
> Bendix system cannot flush the fuel past the firewall as there is no fuel
> return setup. In a hot start condition a significant amount of fuel must
be
> purged from the system and out the exhaust before the engine can run.
>
> In the Cont system the aux pump can purge all the fuel except the small
> amount in the line to and the lines from the flow divider. This is
estimated
> to be 80% or more of the total fuel in the engine compartment (there is
> really only a very small amount of fuel in the non purgable part of the
> system). Thus the Cont design greatly reduces the amount of hot fuel that
> must be disposed of in a hot start.>>
>
> True, except that the Continental system doesn't purge fuel all the way to
> the spider, but to the fuel control valve. The Bendix system relies on
> pressure being maintained between the pump and within the fuel control
servo
> to prevent boiling in that area. If the pressure bleeds off after
shutdown
> there is a problem in the fuel pump that should be corrected. And hot
fuel
> doesn't cause the problem - it is the fuel vapor that is the issue. In
both
> systems it can be assumed that all the fuel in the spider is boiled out,
and
> the residual fuel from the distributor back to the fuel control valve may
or
> may not be partially vapor.
>
> And I think Paul mistyped - all Continental engines have the Continental
> system except for those where the customer insisted on the Bendix system
(I
> think the Beech Duke is one of those). I don't know of a single case
where
> a Lycoming buyer selected the Continental system even though the Bendix
> system, now manufactured by Precision Airmotive, has no corporate ties to
> Lycoming. Yes, the venturi in the Bendix system does cause a manifold
> pressure drop, but I don't know of any data that shows the system is more
> prone to icing because of it.
>
> <<I have extensive experience in the two systems and I would never, by
> choice
> fly with an engine, using the Bendix system or at least as described
above.
> "Paul Messinger">>
>
> While the hot starting issue may be an area where the Continental has an
> advantage, I don't think there have been any fatalities caused by hot
start
> problems. There have been fatalities caused by improper boost pump
> operation in aircraft equipped with the Continental system. That, and the
> fact that the Bendix system is at least partially compensated for air
> density, are the reasons I prefer the Bendix system.
>
> Gary Casey
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Tying wires, not wire ties |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:33 AM 6/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
><<On every plane my partner and I rebuild, I spend anywhere from 10-30
>hours retieing the harness, at least then I know the
>next person to work on it won't have scarred up hands from the cut ends
>of the wire ties, though I've had a lot of people comment
>that they haven't seen a tied harness in years and wish more people
>would do it.>>
>
>Now that you mention it, I am starting to tie my wire harness, but I don't
>know the accepted knot. I have been using a clove hitch followed by an
>overhand knot and it looks okay. What is the proper one?
>
>Gary Casey
The proper one is whatever works for you. I've used the square-knot
over clove hitch but my favorite is illustrated at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: ND Alternator repair |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:07 PM 6/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Chalmers"
><David@ChalmersFamily.com>
>
>
>I just removed my failed ND alternator part number 100211-1411. I assume
>the regulator or diodes have failed. Where can I get replacement parts? Is
>this an easy repair or should I take it to a pro? Any advice appreciated.
Achieving the best rework of an alternator assumes you
have the skills, tools and/or the inclination to acquire
them. Given that ND alternator failures are very rare, you
can't depend on your own project offering lots of opportunities
for learning. Further, the price of a new-rebuild from the
car parts stores is so reasonable, it's difficult to justify
a DIY repair for any reason other that academic satisfaction.
Return on investment of time is poor and risks are higher.
However, if working on it yourself is attractive to you,
check for repair parts at http://www.alternatorparts.com
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tying wires, not wire ties |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: erie <erie@shelbyvilledesign.com>
wrap twice, clove then square knot per AC 43.13 fig. 11-17
In reality, a clove and overhand knot works...and most A&P's I know do that.
erie
Gary Casey wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
><<On every plane my partner and I rebuild, I spend anywhere from 10-30
>hours retieing the harness, at least then I know the
>next person to work on it won't have scarred up hands from the cut ends
>of the wire ties, though I've had a lot of people comment
>that they haven't seen a tied harness in years and wish more people
>would do it.>>
>
>Now that you mention it, I am starting to tie my wire harness, but I don't
>know the accepted knot. I have been using a clove hitch followed by an
>overhand knot and it looks okay. What is the proper one?
>
>Gary Casey
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cont VS Bendix injection systems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Paul Messinger wrote:
> I will not get into a long reply
Neither will I. Light Plane Maintenance had an excellent series of articles on
the two prevalent injection systems within the last year as I recall. Very informative.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.360.838.9669 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: ND Alternator repair |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric Ruttan" <ericruttan@chartermi.net>
As a middle ground I might suggest finding a local rebuilder.
I find one interested in explaining what they do and how they do it, the
education part, and they actualy do it, the reliability part.
I paid extra so he would let me watch, and made a friend.
> >I just removed my failed ND alternator part number 100211-1411. I assume
> >the regulator or diodes have failed. Where can I get replacement parts?
Is
> >this an easy repair or should I take it to a pro? Any advice appreciated.
>
> Achieving the best rework of an alternator assumes you
> have the skills, tools and/or the inclination to acquire
> them. Given that ND alternator failures are very rare, you
> can't depend on your own project offering lots of opportunities
> for learning. Further, the price of a new-rebuild from the
> car parts stores is so reasonable, it's difficult to justify
> a DIY repair for any reason other that academic satisfaction.
> Return on investment of time is poor and risks are higher.
>
> However, if working on it yourself is attractive to you,
> check for repair parts at http://www.alternatorparts.com
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> -----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tying wires, not wire ties |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dennis Golden <dgolden@golden-consulting.com>
Gary Casey wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> <<On every plane my partner and I rebuild, I spend anywhere from 10-30
> hours retieing the harness, at least then I know the
> next person to work on it won't have scarred up hands from the cut ends
> of the wire ties, though I've had a lot of people comment
> that they haven't seen a tied harness in years and wish more people
> would do it.>>
>
> Now that you mention it, I am starting to tie my wire harness, but I don't
> know the accepted knot. I have been using a clove hitch followed by an
> overhand knot and it looks okay. What is the proper one?
AC 43.13-1B Chapter 11 Section 12 has pictures of the different
processes. It is available as a PDF document on line at:
http://www.faa.gov/certification/aircraft/av-info/dst/43-13/AC43.13-1BChg1only.pdf
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Dennis
--
Dennis Golden
Golden Consulting Services, Inc.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tying wires, not wire ties |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
What is needed for bundling wires is a tool, shaped like a mechanical
pencil . It would be touched to the bundle and the string would squirt
out, wrap around the bundle and set up snug.
Who wants to invent something and get rich?
hal
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tying wires, not wire ties |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson <crj@lucubration.com>
Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> What is needed for bundling wires is a tool, shaped like a mechanical
> pencil . It would be touched to the bundle and the string would squirt
> out, wrap around the bundle and set up snug.
>
> Who wants to invent something and get rich?
Is Silly String strong enough to hold them together?
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tying wires, not wire ties |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:57 AM 6/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
><kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>What is needed for bundling wires is a tool, shaped like a mechanical
>pencil . It would be touched to the bundle and the string would squirt
>out, wrap around the bundle and set up snug.
>
>Who wants to invent something and get rich?
One may purchase tie-wrap installation tools that
will properly tension and then trim the tie so that
there are no sharp edges exposed. This tool and tying
technique is the technology of choice in virtually
every airplane factory today. I know of no production
facility that routinely uses flat-lace in fabrication.
I've articulated a preference for flat-lace but if I
had to set up a factory to manufacture a product that
needed some form of wire ties, I certainly choose to
go with tie-wraps installed with the proper tools.
It's not that one is strikingly "better" than the
other but a personal choice of how one plies his/her
craftsmanship. If I were judging an airplane at an
airshow, I don't think I could justify favoring
flat-lace over tie-wraps by very much if at all.
I'd certainly ding the showplane builder that didn't
cut off wire-ties flush for human-friendly results.
However, if one chooses to take the time to number wires
and document those numbers in a lucid and well organized
wire book, I could happily offer credit for the effort.
This labor-intensive component of the craft has
significant value-added features that last for the life of
the airplane.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: OV Module going bad? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:51 AM 6/23/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Bob,
>Here are answers to your questions and some comments from further trouble
>shooting.
>
>In 2000, when I did my panel, I wired the overvoltage hardware as you show
>in your Z3 drawing of 4/00 except I don't have the third "c" connection on
>the regulator to which you show a wire from the master switch.
What do you do with the "c" connection? My understanding is that
this connection needs to be tied to the bus. It's the voltage
sense input to the regulator.
> It has
>worked predictably for the past 70 flight ours. That is, when I tested it
>by pulling the alternator control breaker the voltmeter dropped to 12, the
>ammeter showed a discharge, and the warning light lit.
>
>What's happening now is during flight the voltmeter will drop from 13 - 13
>1/2 to 12 and the ammeter will show a discharge. (I am not seeing any
>indication of overvoltage. Plus the alternator control breaker does not
>trip.) That's when I cycle the master and the system resumes operation,
>i.e., voltage back up and ammeter shows that charging is taking place.
>
>At no time during the "failed" mode does the alternator warning light come
>on. Nor does it come on if I pull the alternator control breaker while in
>the "failed" mode. This doesn't make any sense to me. Does this give you
>any clue what may be the problem?
If your warning light is staying off and the circuit breaker is
not popping, then it appears that the relay is staying closed
and that the system is NOT being taken off line by either a real
or erroneously perceived OV condition.
>Yesterday this happened once during the run up. Then everything was fine
>for about 1/2 hour then I had five or more failures at all rpm settings in
>the next 15 or so minutes.
>
>The battery was "activated" in 2000 after sitting around for 7 years. It
>seems to work ok.
"Seems" is somewhat non-quantified. I'd run a battery load test on
it at a battery shop. Lessee . . . your engine probably cranks with
something on the order of 75-100 amps. So have the mechanic crank up
the test load to load the battery down to 9v and hold it there for
15 seconds. Your battery should put out no less than 100A at the
end of 15 seconds.
Batteries for larger engines will test to 250A or better in this
test. New 32 a.h. Panasonics test to over 500A with this test. A new
17 a.h. will test at over 300A.
>I, too, wonder about the rectifier/regulator (it's a unit made by Key West
>that's very popular in my aviation circles). But since this is an
>intermittent problem I'm not sure how I can reliably check it other than
>replace it (and I'm considering that, too).
>
>I have thought of bypassing the over voltage relay temporarily to see if the
>problem goes away. What do you think of that idea?
It's obvious that the problem is not producing an ov condition so there's
no risk in bypassing the ov protection system for the purpose of conducting
a troubleshooting experiment. Sounds like a good idea to me.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Transponder connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Sherman <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
Good morning all.
I am installing a Garmin GTX 320A transponder with a
Ameriking AK 350 encoder in my Zenith 701. There was
no installation manual with the unit so I downloaded
one from there web site. The encoder came with a
cable, with a plug on one end for the encoder and bare
wires on the other end for the transponder. I want to
ensure that I am reading the installation manual
correctly. They show a drawing of a 25 pin d-sub and
pin-out definitions. The widest part of the connector
is at the top with pin one at top row left and pin 25
at bottom row right. What it doesn't say is if this
is the back of the plug that I will be soldering to,
or the front of the plug that plugs into the
transponder. Which would reverse the pins. My best
guess is, it is the back that I will be soldering to.
Can anyone confirm this?
It is very expensive to have the smoke put back into
the box so I don't want to let any out.
Thanks
Mark S.
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re Westach tach Sensor |
06/23/2004 12:46:14 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/23/2004 12:46:14 PM
pts rule name description
---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Thank you all for your comments!!!
I really appreciate it.
What little there is on the 720-4A is on page 32 of the Westach online
catalog
http://www.frostalarm.com/cat/p32.html
I completely agree that going in and measuring with a scope is the optimum
path
of enlightenment and I would if I could. My shop is in NY and the plane
is still
near FlightCrafters in Florida. So I was actually thinking about getting
one of
those handheld cheapy Velleman scopes or equivalent which would also help
diagnose
a balky Floscan 264. While I have plenty of electrical supplies in the
hangar (e.g.,
tefzel, crimpers, AMP connectors, etc.), There is no electronics
infrastructure
so I was hoping to put together a divider module up north before the next
trip
to the plane.
The NS chip seems like exactly what the doctor ordered what with a single
rail supply and cmos logic
out and autoadapting the threshold to the Vpp as the rotational speed
changes!
In going through the LM1815 pages on the web, I was led to
http://www.magsensors.com/
who seems to be the OEM for the Westach 720-4A and if you look
at their catalog pages of analog variable reluctance gear sensors, they do
have the
engineering specs I was looking for. They also have pre-built digital
sensors that
provide TTL output directly. (May the use the LM1815 too?!)
Gotta love choices!
Ira N224XS
10.5 of 40 hours test flight flown so far
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: f1rocket@comcast.net
In the Garmin manuals that I have, the pin callout is a picture of the back of
the connector. Irrespective of that, the connector itself will have the pins
numbered on the front and the back. I would use that as my guide. This is all
very fresh in my mind as I just wired up my GTX327 transponder last night.
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Sherman <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
>
> Good morning all.
>
> I am installing a Garmin GTX 320A transponder with a
> Ameriking AK 350 encoder in my Zenith 701. There was
> no installation manual with the unit so I downloaded
> one from there web site. The encoder came with a
> cable, with a plug on one end for the encoder and bare
> wires on the other end for the transponder. I want to
> ensure that I am reading the installation manual
> correctly. They show a drawing of a 25 pin d-sub and
> pin-out definitions. The widest part of the connector
> is at the top with pin one at top row left and pin 25
> at bottom row right. What it doesn't say is if this
> is the back of the plug that I will be soldering to,
> or the front of the plug that plugs into the
> transponder. Which would reverse the pins. My best
> guess is, it is the back that I will be soldering to.
> Can anyone confirm this?
>
> It is very expensive to have the smoke put back into
> the box so I don't want to let any out.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark S.
>
>
>
> __________________________________
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Transponder connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Sherman <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
About the transponder connection question I ask
earlier, It was miswritten, the terminals are crimped
not soldered. But the question remains.
Mark S.
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: ND Alternator repair |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
My experience is in agreement with this. The old line 'auto-electric'
shops tend to have knowledgeable folks in the back that can not only fix
the problem, but have seen so many products that they have a good feel
for which models have high failure rates & which ones they rarely see,
even on very common models.
About 10 years ago, after the 3rd alternator failure (not ND) in about 5
hrs of flying, I took a pair of the dead units to the local
'hole-in-the-wall', greasy floored local shop. I walked in & said hello
to the owner/repair guy, who was repairing something & watching the
counter at the same time. I asked him if he could take a look when he
had time & tell me why they were failing. He glanced up at the
alternators from across the room, looked back down at his work & said
'bad armatures.'
When he disassembled & checked them, they both had open armature
windings. He'd seen that model so many times he knew what he would find.
Then he found me a rebuilt ND brand unit that had the same mounting
dimensions as the bad ones. His rebuild was still on the plane when I
sold it about 5 years later.
Charlie
Eric Ruttan wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric Ruttan" <ericruttan@chartermi.net>
>
>As a middle ground I might suggest finding a local rebuilder.
>
>I find one interested in explaining what they do and how they do it, the
>education part, and they actualy do it, the reliability part.
>
>I paid extra so he would let me watch, and made a friend.
>
>
>
>>>I just removed my failed ND alternator part number 100211-1411. I assume
>>>the regulator or diodes have failed. Where can I get replacement parts?
>>>
>>>
>Is
>
>
>>>this an easy repair or should I take it to a pro? Any advice appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>> Achieving the best rework of an alternator assumes you
>> have the skills, tools and/or the inclination to acquire
>> them. Given that ND alternator failures are very rare, you
>> can't depend on your own project offering lots of opportunities
>> for learning. Further, the price of a new-rebuild from the
>> car parts stores is so reasonable, it's difficult to justify
>> a DIY repair for any reason other that academic satisfaction.
>> Return on investment of time is poor and risks are higher.
>>
>> However, if working on it yourself is attractive to you,
>> check for repair parts at http://www.alternatorparts.com
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
>> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
>> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
>> -----------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: ND Alternator repair |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
You might want to check the slip rings on the armature for wear before
investing in a rebuild kit. Sometimes the slip rings are worn to the
point that it makes more sense to let a rebuilder have it than to just
replace the diodes, regulator, and brushes with a parts kit. A good
rebuilder will replace the slip rings. That will also confirm that you
can remove the bolts that hold the case together. Sometimes the bolts
are seized pretty tight but otherwise I have always found parts kits to
be easy to install. Sometimes you have to get creative and use a piece
of string or something to hold the brushes retracted for assembly.
Rebuilders use the part number you mentioned whereas the parts counter
usually wants to know what vehicle it came out of.
Ken
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Chalmers"
>><David@ChalmersFamily.com>
>>
>>
>>I just removed my failed ND alternator part number 100211-1411. I assume
>>the regulator or diodes have failed. Where can I get replacement parts? Is
>>this an easy repair or should I take it to a pro? Any advice appreciated.
>>
>>
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