AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 07/14/04


Total Messages Posted: 15



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:16 AM - Re: Re: Avionics Master Switch (Ron Koyich)
     2. 05:42 AM - Re: dumb wiring question (Trampas)
     3. 05:50 AM - Re: dumb wiring question (f1rocket@comcast.net)
     4. 05:59 AM - Re: Dumb wiring question - Multiple wires in a crimp (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 07:00 AM - Re: Electric Compass (Ron Koyich)
     6. 07:22 AM - Missing AeroElectric List Messages (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 11:34 AM - Re: Missing AeroElectric List Messages (jmfpublic@comcast.net)
     8. 12:10 PM - Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
     9. 12:53 PM - Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux (richard dudley)
    10. 02:04 PM - Re: Re: Avionics Master Switch (Joemotis@aol.com)
    11. 02:25 PM - Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux (Richard Tasker)
    12. 03:08 PM - Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 04:28 PM - Re: dumb wiring question (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
    14. 05:42 PM - Blade VOR/LOC/GS antennas (Malcolm Thomson)
    15. 06:28 PM - Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux (Kent Ashton)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:16:25 AM PST US
    From: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
    Subject: Re: Avionics Master Switch
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com> >>The maintenance officer says we have had several radios fried by current spikes from the mags when the master was left on.<< To which I say, "BS." Data, please, not heresay stories. REK


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:42:05 AM PST US
    From: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: dumb wiring question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com> John, I would recommend running both wires to the back of the switch. That is, do not put a connection in a hidden place or somewhere in-line, as that if a problem happens it is usually at a connection. Thus it is helpful to have all connections accessible. As far as connecting the two wires together it depends on your switch. For example if you use fast-on connections for the switch I would crimp the two wires in the same fast-on. I am not sure if this is an acceptable practice or not. If the connection is a screw I would put an eyelet on each wire. Regards, Trampas Stern http://www.sterntech.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ciolino Subject: AeroElectric-List: dumb wiring question --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Ciolino <jbc2000@earthlink.net> I am wiring my navigation lights. I have a single wire coming off the bus thru a single pole switch. At some point this single wire has to branch into a left and right . How do I make this connection?. I thought that just using a butt splice to connect the one power wire to two branch wires would work. Will it? Is there a better way? I would prefer not to use a double pole switch but if that is the "proper" way, I will do it. I would appreciate any help. JBC Wiring Illiterate


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:50:36 AM PST US
    From: f1rocket@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: dumb wiring question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: f1rocket@comcast.net Just run the two wires to your switch and crimp them together in the same terminal. It's okay to crimp multiple wires into the same terminal provided the terminal is sized correctly. Look at Bob's shop notes on his web site, I believe he has an aticle about this. Randy F1 Rocket http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/ -------------- Original message -------------- > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Ciolino > > I am wiring my navigation lights. I have a single wire coming off the > bus thru a single pole switch. At some point this single wire has to > branch into a left and right . How do I make this connection?. I > thought that just using a butt splice to connect the one power wire to > two branch wires would work. Will it? Is there a better way? > > I would prefer not to use a double pole switch but if that is the > "proper" way, I will do it. > > I would appreciate any help. > > JBC > Wiring Illiterate > > > > > > Just run the two wires to your switch and crimp them together in the same terminal. It's okay to crimp multiple wires into the same terminal provided the terminal is sized correctly. Look at Bob's shop notes on his web site, I believe he has an aticle about this. Randy F1 Rocket http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/ -------------- Original message -------------- -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Ciolino <JBC2000@EARTHLINK.NET> I am wiring my navigation lights. I have a single wire coming off the bus thru a single pole switch. At some point this single wire has to branch into a left and right . How do I make this connection?. I thought that just using a butt splice to connect the one power wire to two branch wires would work. Will it? Is there a better way? I would prefer not to use a double pole switch but if that is the "proper" way, I will do it. I would appreciate any help. JBC Wiring Illiterate ves: http://www.matronics.com/archives


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:59:40 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Dumb wiring question - Multiple wires in a crimp
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> Correct. See http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/multiplewires/multiplewires.html There is no prohibition for putting multiple wires into a single PIDG terminal. It's done all the time. Bob . . . At 12:50 PM 7/14/2004 +0000, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: f1rocket@comcast.net > >Just run the two wires to your switch and crimp them together in the same >terminal. It's okay to crimp multiple wires into the same terminal >provided the terminal is sized correctly. Look at Bob's shop notes on his >web site, I believe he has an aticle about this. > >Randy >F1 Rocket >http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/ > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Ciolino > > > > I am wiring my navigation lights. I have a single wire coming off the > > bus thru a single pole switch. At some point this single wire has to > > branch into a left and right . How do I make this connection?. I > > thought that just using a butt splice to connect the one power wire to > > two branch wires would work. Will it? Is there a better way? > > > > I would prefer not to use a double pole switch but if that is the > > "proper" way, I will do it. > > > > I would appreciate any help. > > > > JBC > > Wiring Illiterate > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Just run the two wires to your switch and crimp them together in the same >terminal. It's okay to crimp multiple wires into the same terminal >provided the terminal is sized correctly. Look at Bob's shop notes on his >web site, I believe he has an aticle about this. > > >Randy > > >F1 Rocket > > >http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/ > > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Ciolino <JBC2000@EARTHLINK.NET> > > I am wiring my navigation lights. I have a single wire coming off the > bus thru a single pole switch. At some point this single wire has to > branch into a left and right . How do I make this connection?. I > thought that just using a butt splice to connect the one power wire to > two branch wires would work. Will it? Is there a better way? > > I would prefer not to use a double pole switch but if that is the > "proper" way, I will do it. > > I would appreciate any help. > > JBC > Wiring Illiterate > > > ves: http://www.matronics.com/archives > > Bob . . . ----------------------------------------- ( Experience and common sense cannot be ) ( replaced with policy and procedures. ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) -----------------------------------------


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:00:52 AM PST US
    From: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
    Subject: Electric Compass
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com> Ah, you have the panel mounted instrument? In that case, it could be for any remote or slaved compass system, David. It is more than likely just a servo/synchro indicator. Lots more stuff required to make it work as a compass. Ron


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:22:57 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Missing AeroElectric List Messages
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> For some reason, I don't seem to be receiving all of the AeroElectric List traffic. For example, the exchange below just came through but I don't see the posting that started the thread. I just checked the archives and see a lot of traffice on the list that did not come through to my cox.net email account. The only thing I can think of is that cox.net has some kind of spam filter running that are trashing some of my incoming traffic. I'll be changing my matronics list-server email to the account that resides on my website server. Since I own that server, I know there are no spam filters . . . unfortunately, I can begin to expect lots of spam on that account as soon as I begin to publish a new e-mail address . . . hazards of playing in the real-world sand box. Anyhow, I wanted folks to know that I've not been ignoring them. If anyone has a query from the past several weeks that I appeared to ignore, wait a day or two until my AeroElectric-List return address changes to rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com That should fix the communications problem Bob . . . At 09:59 PM 7/14/2004 +0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com> > >Ah, you have the panel mounted instrument? > >In that case, it could be for any remote or slaved compass system, David. > > >It is more than likely just a servo/synchro indicator. Lots more stuff >required to make it work as a compass. > > >Ron


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:34:30 AM PST US
    From: jmfpublic@comcast.net
    <Aeroelectric-List@matronics.com> (Aeroelectric-List)
    Subject: Re: Missing AeroElectric List Messages
    0.5 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jmfpublic@comcast.net Bob, Instead of having the list messages sent to your email, why not just log onto the website (matronics)list? This is what I do, and this also sort of organizes threads: not always reliably. You don't want to wade through spam, which is running 80% on my system. Jim Foerster <!-- ZoneLabs Popup Blocking Insertion -->Bob, Instead of having the list messages sent to your email, why not just log onto the website (matronics)list? This is what I do, and this also sort of organizes threads: not always reliably. You don't want to wade through spam, which is running 80% on my system. Jim Foerster <SCRIPT language=javascript>postamble();</SCRIPT>


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:10:51 PM PST US
    From: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@maxwell.af.mil>
    Subject: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL> Bob - I have what may be an irrational aversion to rosin-core solder. I seem to get much better results with my red tin can of Lenk paste flux and solid (thin) solder. Are you aware of any problems or incompatibilities with common paste flux residue in aircraft? Neal George RV-7 N8ZG, wings


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:53:56 PM PST US
    From: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
    Subject: Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net> Hi George, There is a problem with paste flux in any electronic wiring. Its residue is corrosive and in time will damage anything metallic it comes in contact with. Because of this property it is especially risky to use it in aircraft wiring. Rosin core is the preferred solder for use in electronics. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A painting George Neal E Capt AU/PC wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL> > >Bob - >I have what may be an irrational aversion to rosin-core solder. >I seem to get much better results with my red tin can of Lenk paste flux and >solid (thin) solder. Are you aware of any problems or incompatibilities >with common paste flux residue in aircraft? > >Neal George >RV-7 N8ZG, wings > > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 02:04:51 PM PST US
    From: Joemotis@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Avionics Master Switch
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com UMM... aren't the mags a completly self contained unit which has nothing to do with the battery? Joe Motis do not archive


    Message 11


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    Time: 02:25:11 PM PST US
    From: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net> Let's not get too generalized here. There are paste and liquid fluxes out there that are perfectly fine for electronics. You just have to make sure that the residues are not acidic or otherwise corrosive. I do not know if your "Lenk" flux is in this category or not. There are also flux cored solders that are not suitable for electronics. Rosin-core solder is good for electronics applications, but should really be cleaned off after soldering - alcohol, acetone, mek or any reasonable solvent. There are also plenty of flux cored solder that is not rosin-based and is great for electronics. There are several types that offer cores of water soluble flux, low residue flux or others that are specifically designed for electronics applications - some designed to be cleaned after soldering and some specifically designed to be left on after soldering. The key is to make sure whatever you use states specifically that it is designed for electronics applications and is specifically non-corrosive. In some cases, where what I want to solder is not readily solderable with electronics fluxes, I even use acid based or other highly active fluxes to solder something "electronic". The trick there is to be sure to thoroughly clean the joint after soldering. YMMV Dick Tasker, RV9A # 90573 richard dudley wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net> > >Hi George, >There is a problem with paste flux in any electronic wiring. Its residue >is corrosive and in time will damage anything metallic it comes in >contact with. Because of this property it is especially risky to use it >in aircraft wiring. Rosin core is the preferred solder for use in >electronics. > >Regards, > >Richard Dudley >-6A painting > >George Neal E Capt AU/PC wrote: > > > >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL> >> >>Bob - >>I have what may be an irrational aversion to rosin-core solder. >>I seem to get much better results with my red tin can of Lenk paste flux and >>solid (thin) solder. Are you aware of any problems or incompatibilities >>with common paste flux residue in aircraft? >> >>Neal George >>RV-7 N8ZG, wings >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 03:08:32 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> > > >Bob - > >I have what may be an irrational aversion to rosin-core solder. > >I seem to get much better results with my red tin can of Lenk paste flux and > >solid (thin) solder. Are you aware of any problems or incompatibilities > >with common paste flux residue in aircraft? > > > >Neal George > >RV-7 N8ZG, wings > > I have perhaps a dozen different soldering tools, three or four forms of electronic tin/lead solder and one form of silver solder. The only solder that needs additional/external flux is the sliver solder. Haven't had a can of flux in the shop since I gave up soldering small enclosures together from galvanized roofing material . . . that was about 35 years ago. Check out the Kester offerings at: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T042/1170.pdf 63/37 Resin 44 is my favorite. I do have a spool of "285" but never found a need for it. If you can't do a good job with these solders as-is, there's something wrong with your tools, materials and/or technique. If you really gotta use an external flux, make sure it's 'elctronic stuff like those offered at: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Criteria?Ref=222564&Site=US&Cat=32703202 . . . but I'd be very skeptical of any need for externally applied flux. The only place I've ever seen bottled flux at RAC is on rework stations where they have to deal routinely with soldered joints that have been exposed to the wild and woolly world of service in airplanes. Next time I'm over in that building, I'll ask the folks if they ever find the stuff useful. I've done plenty of "rework" in soldered joints where off-the-spool, pre-fluxed solder was entirely adequate to the task. Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 04:28:57 PM PST US
    From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
    Subject: Re: dumb wiring question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 07/14/2004 6:51:24 AM Central Standard Time, f1rocket@comcast.net writes: > I am wiring my navigation lights. I have a single wire coming off the > bus thru a single pole switch. At some point this single wire has to > branch into a left and right . How do I make this connection?. I > thought that just using a butt splice to connect the one power wire to > two branch wires would work. Will it? Is there a better way? Nothing "wrong" with this as long as ALL wires in the circuit are properly sized for the FUSE supplying the circuit. You mention R & L, so I assume you are using tip lights with the rear-facing white lights for say, 10 amps total? Use 18 ga. from switch, strip about 3/4" from the splice end, double it over and stuff into a blue PDIG splice & crimp. Yank on it to make SURE it is tightly crimped. Strip 1/4" from the two 18 ga. wires to the tip lights, stuff into splice, crimp & yank. The electrons from the switch will never get confused when they arrive at the splice, the red ones will go left and the green ones right........... The white ones are filtered by the kadink muffler built into the receptacle and are drawn aft by relative motion conditioned by coriolis effect on surface tension of lens. (Most of the above is relevant- discard all else! 8-) From The PossumWorks in TN Mark


    Message 14


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    Time: 05:42:09 PM PST US
    From: "Malcolm Thomson" <mdthomson@attglobal.net>
    Subject: Blade VOR/LOC/GS antennas
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Malcolm Thomson" <mdthomson@attglobal.net> I am thinking on using a Comant CI120 VOR/LOC/GS dual blade antenna on my Thunder Mustang. These blade type antennas are normally mounted on either side of a vertical stabilizer and then the signal from each side is combined together into a single coax/signal which goes to your radio. My question is, does it matter how for apart the two blades are as I am thinking about locating one in each wing tip which are 25' apart? The Thunder Mustang is nearly all carbon fiber, except the wing tips. Thanks.


    Message 15


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    Time: 06:28:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Solder - Rosin-core or paste flux
    From: Kent Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net> Bob, I found it helpful to put a touch of liquid flux on the ends of those 25 pin D-sub connectors prior to soldering AWG 22 wires in them. Seemed to make them go together better. Otherwise I agree. --Kent 3 aircraft wired per Aeroelectric Connection . . . but I'd be very skeptical of any need for externally > applied flux. The only place I've ever seen bottled > flux at RAC is on rework stations where they have to > deal routinely with soldered joints that have been exposed > to the wild and woolly world of service in airplanes. > Next time I'm over in that building, I'll ask the folks if > they ever find the stuff useful. I've done plenty > of "rework" in soldered joints where off-the-spool, pre-fluxed > solder was entirely adequate to the task. > > Bob . . .




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