Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:41 AM - Re: Re: (John Schroeder)
2. 05:45 AM - Re: Lighting strike (Brian Lloyd)
3. 06:15 AM - Re: Re: (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 06:30 AM - Re: Re: (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:33 AM - Re: Wire Stripper (flmike)
6. 07:12 AM - Re: Lighting strike (Dan Checkoway)
7. 07:57 AM - Re: latching relay (Paul)
8. 07:57 AM - Re: latching relay (BobsV35B@aol.com)
9. 08:15 AM - Re: Lighting strike (Brian Lloyd)
10. 08:17 AM - Wire Stripper (Scott Diffenbaugh)
11. 08:27 AM - Re: Lighting strike (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 09:24 AM - Re: gascolator (jerb)
13. 09:53 AM - Unprotected Pos. (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
14. 10:01 AM - Re: latching relay (Richard Tasker)
15. 10:47 AM - Re: latching relay (BobsV35B@aol.com)
16. 11:16 AM - Re: gascolator (John Schroeder)
17. 11:56 AM - Re: Wire Stripper (owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com)
18. 01:10 PM - Re: gascolator (Greg Young)
19. 02:17 PM - Re: Unprotected Pos. (Ernest Kells)
20. 02:27 PM - Re: LSE ignition sold (Rick Girard)
21. 02:44 PM - Re: Unprotected Pos. (Walter Tondu)
22. 03:23 PM - Re: Unprotected Pos. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 08:04 PM - master solenoid dropout? (Dave Ford)
24. 09:49 PM - Re: master solenoid dropout? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
So - if a single fuse blows, the whole instrument chain goes down?
> If not, my choice is to power the buss from the
> battery contactor, then run +12v in series to each of the instruments.
> Saves lots of wire. I don't think there is any need for a dedicated
> "block". I
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting strike |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Aug 4, 2004, at 10:27 PM, David Carter wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> A B-52 crew faced a court martial in SAC for taking hail damage from a
> thunderstorm - they were in the clear about 20 miles away. The facts
> of the
> case supported that they had acted prudently and had conscienciously
> stayed
> a prudent distance away from the CB - they beat the rap.
> - Them buggers reach WAY OUT to getcha.
I had a big one *chase* me over Scotts Bluff, Nebraska, once. I ended
up going to Laramie, WY, and landing. I called up flight service and
told the briefer how fast it was moving and he scoffed at me. I then
talked him into pulling up the radar loop after which he got real
quiet. After about thirty seconds he said something like, "wow, the
leading edge is moving at 80 knots against the wind. I have never seen
anything like it." No matter how many CBs you have seen, there is
always one that will be bigger and more surprising.
If you fly you will encounter CBs. They can be pretty nasty. I have
had a couple of inadvertent CB penetrations (small ones, fortunately)
and I can attest to the fact that it is not an event one would like to
experience a second time.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
<jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
> So - if a single fuse blows, the whole instrument chain goes down?
>
>
Right. It is so simple. To make it even simpler, keep extending the
concept and wire the whole plane on just one circuit. Your choice, use a
circuit breaker or fuse. Then when it blows/pops you know you got a problem
?somewhere?. So plan on using some old time air-driven/magnetic instruments
for backup. You will of course be using magnetos and not that modern EI
stuff. YET Simple. Makes CBs affordable and practical. Saves space,
wire, weight. You will become good at debugging electrical problems as a
side line and not be risking your life aloft while flying around so much
because of the increasing amount of time spent scratching the head tracing
out and checking continuity and condition of wire and various instruments.
It will also encourage you to stay in shape/thin so you can get in there
behind the panel more easily. You will probably eat less and spend less at
the grocery. This really is elegant after you carry it out and and see more
fully the extended ramifications of using just one circuit.... You might
even think of lowering/removing insurance on the plane since you are flying
less with less risk. AND you will save lots of $$ on fuel savings.
do not archive this dribblings of humor. Sorry.......a weak
moment.......(I am waiting for some epoxy resin to set up).
Larry
> > If not, my choice is to power the buss from the
> > battery contactor, then run +12v in series to each of the instruments.
> > Saves lots of wire. I don't think there is any need for a dedicated
> > "block". I
>
>
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 08:40 AM 8/5/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
Most aircraft "bundle" engine instruments on fewer fuses/breakers
than there are instruments. If one has the spare fuse slots or really
like the acres-of-breakers look on the panel, then protecting
each instrument individually works too. Opening circuit protection
in flight is a very rare event and just because you don't KNOW the
numbers for engine operation, not having gages does not present a
big problem with getting on the ground without breaking a sweat.
Bob . . .
>So - if a single fuse blows, the whole instrument chain goes down?
>
>
> > If not, my choice is to power the buss from the
> > battery contactor, then run +12v in series to each of the instruments.
> > Saves lots of wire. I don't think there is any need for a dedicated
> > "block".
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Stripper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
Steve,
One solution is an Ideal Custom Stripmaster with
blades for Teflon wire. I have one with the EE type
blades and it works great.
http://www.idealindustries.com/pt/HandTools.nsf
A 45-177 should do ya.
These are different from the regular strippers in that
the insulation is gripped with grit pads rather than
the sawtooth type and the insulation is pinched and
"plucked" off rather than being cut. The kind that
try to cut the insulation end up extruding it.
New they are about $140, but I found a minty one on
eBay for $10.
The thermal strippers also work well I hear. I just
don't have any experience with those. They show up on
eBay regularly.
http://www.teledyneinterconnect.com/products/wire_strippers/wirestrip.asp
Mike
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting strike |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > a prudent distance away from the CB - they beat the rap.
> > - Them buggers reach WAY OUT to getcha.
Guys, you may have misunderstood my comment. What I meant by CB was that I
try to stay 50 miles away from any circuit breakers. I use fuses.
What type of primer is best for lightning protection?
Man, I am SO kidding.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: latching relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
Hi Dick,
Thanks The link helps.
Paul
=========
At 12:06 AM -0400 8/5/04, Richard E. Tasker wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
>
>This is not a latching relay. It is a standard relay that can be
>electrically latched.
>
>I assume that what is wanted is a relay that is stable in either
>position and uses energy only to change the output state.
>
>Mouser has them:
>http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=data.getPcodes&pcode=Magnecraft+Latching+Relays&pcodenumber=52807
>
>Or just go to www.mouser.com and search for "Magnecraft Latching
>Relays" if the URL gets mangled.
>
>These are true latching relays and require no power to stay in either
>state. The relay itself is a plug-in type, but you can get a socket
>with quick connect tabs.
>
>To operate the relay, you will have to have a switch like those that
>operate trim tab or flap motors - i.e. a three position reversing
>switch (on-off-on). One polarity to turn it on, the reverse to turn it off.
>
>Dick Tasker
>
>
>B Tomm wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: B Tomm <fvalarm@rapidnet.net>
>>
>>You may find what your looking for here
>>
>>http://www.altronix.com/p_html/6062.html
>>
>>Bevan
>>RV7A fuse
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Paul [SMTP:pwilson@climber.org]
>>Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 7:53 PM
>>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: AeroElectric-List: latching relay
>>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
>>
>> I need to locate a latching relay. Low current, couple of amps. Operated
>>at 9 to 15 volts DC, hopefully with faston terminals.
>>
>> I dont know where to look. Furthermore I do not know how these thing work.
>>I do know that I dont want it to draw any power when it is latched in
>>either of the two positions.
>>
>> Please get me up to speed on these things, like how they work and where to
>>buy one.
>>
> >Thank, Paul
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: latching relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 8/4/04 11:09:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
retasker@optonline.net writes:
Mouser has them:
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=data.getPcodes&pcode=Magnecraft+Latchi
ng+Relays&pcodenumber=52807
Or just go to www.mouser.com and search for "Magnecraft Latching
Relays" if the URL gets mangled.
These are true latching relays and require no power to stay in either
state. The relay itself is a plug-in type, but you can get a socket
with quick connect tabs.
To operate the relay, you will have to have a switch like those that
operate trim tab or flap motors - i.e. a three position reversing
switch (on-off-on). One polarity to turn it on, the reverse to turn it off.
Dick Tasker
Good Morning Dick,
I have been looking for a source for such relays and appreciate the
information given.
However, I am still puzzled.
One relay listed as being capable of handling ten amps has a list price of
$18.94 while another relay has the same current rating and a list price of
$246.00.
Looking at the data available on the website, I am at a loss to determine
why there is such a major price differential.
Can you, or anyone else, provide a bit more education?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting strike |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Aug 5, 2004, at 10:14 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>>> a prudent distance away from the CB - they beat the rap.
>>> - Them buggers reach WAY OUT to getcha.
>
> Guys, you may have misunderstood my comment. What I meant by CB was
> that I
> try to stay 50 miles away from any circuit breakers. I use fuses.
Hey, the guy who wired by boat figured out that you can save a LOT of
money by using neither breakers nor fuses. I disagreed and rewired.
> What type of primer is best for lightning protection?
Silver. It reflects the light-ning.
Been through the primer wars, eh?
> Man, I am SO kidding.
You are? Huh. Who'd a thought.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
Steve,
I purchased the automatic stripper #WS-39 from Cleveland and it is a piece
of garbage. I will send it back when I get around to it. I looked into the
"Custom Stripmasters" by IDEAL which are specifically made for teflon wire
with non-sharp dies but I would have to purchase two to cover 16 to 24 ga @
$123 each, so I settled for a couple of the manual types made by Klein or
Ideal @ about $10 each. Just be careful. See RV7 list for more discussion
on these. Apparently some builders use the cheaper stripmaster type with
the sharp dies that you can buy at Radio Shack with success. I might try
those also.
Regards,
Scott Diffenbaugh RV7A final wiring of panel.
diff@foothill.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting strike |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>Guys, you may have misunderstood my comment. What I meant by CB was that I
>try to stay 50 miles away from any circuit breakers. I use fuses.
>
>What type of primer is best for lightning protection?
Lightning protection of electronics is NOT easy. DO-160
tests call for injecting high voltage/high current waveforms
into the various wiring ports of a device with an expectation
that such deliberate abuse will not damage the device. The
magnitude, duration and waveforms are varied depending on
what kind of airplane (metal, composite), and whether the
equipment is totally inside the aircraft or has exposure to
direct effects (de-ice heater controllers on leading edges,
gizmos with antennas sticking out, etc).
I'm not aware of any textbooks on the subject although I'm
sure there are many. We use the cut-n-try approach using
components (transorbs, etc.) and the application guides
for those components. It's a matter of selecting components
and i/o treatments that will stand off the test stresses
while limiting stress to the product that be applied in the
lab.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Are you sure about this - just doesn't sound right - normally the commonly
used gascolator not usually rated for being operated pressurized - I would
recheck this - there normally installed on the low point between the tanks
and the suction side of the fuel pump to catch debris and water from the
tank. Maybe there's something for us to learn here.
jerb
At 05:32 AM 7/25/04 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
><lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <KahnSG@aol.com>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: gascolator
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KahnSG@aol.com
> >
> > I'm working on an experimental plane that has the gascolator between the
> > Weldon high pressure electric pump and the mechanical fuel pump. It has a
>PS5C
> > pressure carb.
> > I always have seen the gascolator on the low pressure (suction) side of
>the
> > fuel pumps.
> > Has anyone seen this type of setup for a pressure carb?
> > Is it correct?
> > Any comments?
> >
> > Steve
>(((((((((()))))))))))))
>Yes, this is how Vans Aircraft design their latest planes. Pressure is
>needed to push gas into the gascolator when you periodically purge/clean the
>gascolator. Do this by turning on the electric pump and pushing on the
>release valve of the gascolator.
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Unprotected Pos. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
List,
I've been meaning to ask this... Van's in some applications suggests
connections between Master relay and starter relay using two unguarded copper
bars
.125x3-4" instead of #2AWG insulated. This would be on the inside of a -6a
firewall, and I can only guess it's to get the two relays closer together. I had
visions of an accidental ground there and a battery meltdown, so spread 'em a
bit further and used regular #2 tefzel. Thoughts? Comments?
Jerry Cochran
>Hi Bob,
>
>Thanks again for your little talk at our builders banquette at OSH. I
>have a question I neglected to ask. I plan on using two 12v RG batteries
>in my 24v system. I'd like to mount them on the engine side of the
>firewall. In order to do that they must be mounted on separate sides due
>to space concerns. The question is, what's the maximum distance I can
>have between the 2 interconnected batteries?
No practical limit on this. Obviously, there's a "unprotected" fat wire
that runs between the batteries . . . but it's out in the open on a
flat surface and easily inspected for signs of compromise.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: latching relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Well, I am not a relay expert, just an old EE (well maybe not that old).
I looked at the data sheets and I can see no reason for the tremendous
difference in price. The more expensive relays are mechanically
latching so are somewhat more complicated than the magnetically
latching cheaper relays - but I don;t think that this can explain the
price difference.
It looks like the contacts on the expensive version are somewhat more
rugged, but as long as either is used within the specifications you
should get a life that will be longer than you are likely to need for
your airplane.
The more expensive versions are available in nuclear qualified versions,
but I doubt that Mouser is selling these versions :-) .
Interestingly, the cheaper relays have a wider operating temperature range.
It could be nothing more than the fact that they make lots more of the
lower cost relays. Hope this helps a little, but the bottom line is I
really don't know why one price is 12X the other.
Dick
BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
>Good Morning Dick,
>
>I have been looking for a source for such relays and appreciate the
>information given.
>
>However, I am still puzzled.
>
>One relay listed as being capable of handling ten amps has a list price of
>$18.94 while another relay has the same current rating and a list price of
>$246.00.
>
>Looking at the data available on the website, I am at a loss to determine
>why there is such a major price differential.
>
>Can you, or anyone else, provide a bit more education?
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>AKA
>Bob Siegfried
>Ancient Aviator
>Stearman N3977A
>Brookeridge Airpark LL22
>Downers Grove, IL 60516
>630 985-8502
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: latching relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 8/5/04 12:03:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
retasker@optonline.net writes:
It could be nothing more than the fact that they make lots more of the
lower cost relays. Hope this helps a little, but the bottom line is I
really don't know why one price is 12X the other.
Dick
Thank You Dick,
It is a wondrous thing!
Do Not Archive
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
The Lancair Super ES (IO-550N) manual calls for the following: Tanks to
fuel selector, Selector to input of boost pump, boost pump to gascolator,
gascolator to the engine fuel pump.
John
> Are you sure about this - just doesn't sound right - normally the
> commonly
> used gascolator not usually rated for being operated pressurized - I
> would recheck this - there normally installed on the low point between
> the tanks and the suction side of the fuel pump to catch debris and
> water from the
> tank. Maybe there's something for us to learn here. jerb
>
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wire Stripper
Steve,
I will tell you what I did.....I went down to AutoZone and bought one of
their elcheapo wire strippers for $10-12. It is the kind that is spring
loaded with a pair of jaws. You put the wire in the right slot and squeeze
the handle and it removes the insulation and then springs back to the closed
position once the handle is released. It works perfect on the Tefzel wire
and will probably last me for the rest of my life.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Collins [mailto:steveco@houston.rr.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wire Stripper
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Collins"
<steveco@houston.rr.com>
I need to get a wire stripper. Anyone found one that works well with Tefzel
wire (I understand a lot of common strippers don't work well on it, but I
don't have personal experience)? With all the wiring I'll eventually be
doing, I don't mind paying a little extra for a good tool.
-Steve Collins
-RV-7A, wings
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
You need a high pressure (well 15 psi anyway) gascolator for this system.
The Andair gascolator works well and I think Van's has one of their own now.
Greg
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
> Are you sure about this - just doesn't sound right - normally
> the commonly used gascolator not usually rated for being
> operated pressurized - I would recheck this - there normally
> installed on the low point between the tanks and the suction
> side of the fuel pump to catch debris and water from the
> tank. Maybe there's something for us to learn here.
> jerb
>
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KahnSG@aol.com
> > >
> > > I'm working on an experimental plane that has the
> gascolator between
> > > the Weldon high pressure electric pump and the mechanical
> fuel pump.
> > > It has a
> >PS5C
> > > pressure carb.
> > > I always have seen the gascolator on the low pressure
> (suction) side
> > > of
> >the
> > > fuel pumps.
> > > Has anyone seen this type of setup for a pressure carb?
> > > Is it correct?
> > > Any comments?
> > >
> > > Steve
> >(((((((((()))))))))))))
> >Yes, this is how Vans Aircraft design their latest planes.
> Pressure is
> >needed to push gas into the gascolator when you periodically
> >purge/clean the gascolator. Do this by turning on the electric pump
> >and pushing on the release valve of the gascolator.
> >
> >Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
> >
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Unprotected Pos. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
... Van's in some applications suggests connections between Master relay and
starter relay using two unguarded copper bars, .125x3-4" instead of #2AWG
insulated. This would be on the inside of a -6a firewall, and I can only
guess it's to get the two relays closer together. I had visions of an
accidental ground there and a battery meltdown, so spread 'em a bit further
and used regular #2 tefzel. Thoughts? Comments?
> > Jerry Cochran
This seems to be a standard Vans approach except on my RV-9A the master and
starter relays are on the forward side of the firewall. One of them is
mounted upside down so that the two relays can be "really close". On my
project I took a couple of terminal booties, slipped one bootie over one
terminal and the unguarded copper bars, then snipped one end off the other
bootie to cover the other terminal and remaining exposed copper bars - and
tuck over the other bootie. Everything is completely covered. You would
have to intentionally try to force a ground.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: LSE ignition sold |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick Girard <fly.ez@verizon.net>
Wayne asked me to let the list know that the Plasma I has sold.
Thanks,
Rick Girard for Wayne Blackler
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Unprotected Pos. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 08/05 5:07, Ernest Kells wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
> ... Van's in some applications suggests connections between Master relay and
> starter relay using two unguarded copper bars, .125x3-4" instead of #2AWG
> insulated. This would be on the inside of a -6a firewall, and I can only
> guess it's to get the two relays closer together. I had visions of an
> accidental ground there and a battery meltdown, so spread 'em a bit further
> and used regular #2 tefzel. Thoughts? Comments?
> > > Jerry Cochran
Shrinkwrap tubing over the bars, cut the holes out.
> This seems to be a standard Vans approach except on my RV-9A the master and
> starter relays are on the forward side of the firewall. One of them is
> mounted upside down so that the two relays can be "really close". On my
> project I took a couple of terminal booties, slipped one bootie over one
> terminal and the unguarded copper bars, then snipped one end off the other
> bootie to cover the other terminal and remaining exposed copper bars - and
> tuck over the other bootie. Everything is completely covered. You would
> have to intentionally try to force a ground.
>
>
>
>
>
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Unprotected Pos. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> ... Van's in some applications suggests connections between Master
relay and
> starter relay using two unguarded copper bars, .125x3-4" instead of #2AWG
> insulated. This would be on the inside of a -6a firewall, and I can only
> guess it's to get the two relays closer together. I had visions of an
> accidental ground there and a battery meltdown, so spread 'em a bit further
> and used regular #2 tefzel. Thoughts? Comments?
Solid metal jumpers are often used between large terminals on
contactors mounted adjacent to each other. This is a common practice
in ALL power distribution venues. This is good parts count reduction
technique . . . and it permits very close spacing of contactors with
very short conductors. One could choose to exercise a lot of concern
for "exposed" conductors but I'm aware of no instances where the
exposed breaker busses figured in either precipitation of (or exacerbated
the outcome) of an accident.
The rule-of-thumb for these concerns is to inspect the finished
project and deduce what pieces of hardware represent a potential
for a hard-fault to one of exposed contactor terminals or interconnection
straps. If it takes less than a hammer-n-sawing activity to get
an errant piece of the airplane to cause a short, then it's unlikely
that a fault will occur in anything less than severe damage to the
airplane. If any hardware is loose enough to cause the short without
severe damage, then the solution is to secure that hardware . . . not
insulate the connections against shorts caused by contact that
can and should be prevented.
For short runs between heavy current carrying components, copper
or brass straps are the technology of choice. Insulation of these
parts is optional and probably ineffective.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 23
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| Subject: | master solenoid dropout? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
I flew my RV6 to Oshkosh for the first time this past Sunday. I have about 100
hours on the system. About 45 minutes into the flight over Lake Michigan I lost
all electrical power to my instruments. This has never happened before.
Engine did not skip a beat, FADEC was not affected. My first reaction after about
2 seconds of shock was to cycle off/on the batt/alt switch and everything
came back on. Hmmm, what was that all about? Everything looks ok, voltages
on both batteries show charging. About 10 minutes later a similar thing happened
only for about 1 second and power was off, then instantly back on again without
doing anything. After landing at Oshkosh, I checked for intermittent connections
at master relay, batt/alt switch, fuse panels--could not duplicate symptom
on the ground. After departure Sunday pm sure enough halfway across Lake
Michigan this happened twice more just a power off and on glitch, resetting
gps and transponder, Dynon is backed up directly to battery and was not affected.
Does this sound like a master solenoid dropping out and has anyone experienced
this? I have a Van's master solenoid.
Dave Ford
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: master solenoid dropout? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 11:21 PM 8/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
>I flew my RV6 to Oshkosh for the first time this past Sunday. I have
>about 100 hours on the system. About 45 minutes into the flight over Lake
>Michigan I lost all electrical power to my instruments. This has never
>happened before. Engine did not skip a beat, FADEC was not affected. My
>first reaction after about 2 seconds of shock was to cycle off/on the
>batt/alt switch and everything came back on. Hmmm, what was that all
>about? Everything looks ok, voltages on both batteries show
>charging. About 10 minutes later a similar thing happened only for about
>1 second and power was off, then instantly back on again without doing
>anything. After landing at Oshkosh, I checked for intermittent
>connections at master relay, batt/alt switch, fuse panels--could not
>duplicate symptom on the ground. After departure Sunday pm sure enough
>halfway across Lake Michigan this happened twice more just a power off and
>on glitch, resetting gps and transponder, Dynon is backed up directly to!
> battery and was not affected. Does this sound like a master solenoid
> dropping out and has anyone experienced this? I have a Van's master solenoid.
>
>Dave Ford
You didn't say what Z-figure you used, if any. You mentioned two batteries
so I presume you have dual battery master contactors. If you are wired per
any of the 'Connection's z-figures, then you have to have dual, simultaneious
contactor failure to exhibit any symptoms common to contactor failure. I
presume
your FADEC system gets power from battery busses and had no dependency on
anything
other than charged batteries for operation. If you have voltmeter access
to the
batteries and the voltage was greater than 13.0 volts during the 'outage'
then
your contactors are not involved.
You later mention a Van's master solenoid in singular speech . . . this
raises questions about how your dual battery system is wired. If you can
enlighten us more as to your system's architecture details, perhaps we can
be more helpful.
Bob . . .
---
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