Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:43 AM - Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector (Richard V. Reynolds)
2. 04:48 AM - Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector (Neil Clayton)
3. 05:16 AM - Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector (rd2@evenlink.com)
4. 05:24 AM - Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector (John Schroeder)
5. 07:20 AM - Re: (Glaeser, Dennis A)
6. 07:43 AM - Heat Shrink (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
7. 08:01 AM - Re: Re: Architecture for 2 batteries and 1 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:02 AM - Re: FW: Re: Architecture for 2 batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:05 AM - Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:19 AM - Re: Audio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 09:37 AM - Radio problem (Chad Stenson)
12. 10:09 AM - Re: Tach transducer (Steve Sampson)
13. 10:42 AM - Re: Heat Shrink (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 10:44 AM - Re: Radio problem (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 11:02 AM - Re: Wig Wag help (Charles E. Brame)
16. 11:23 AM - Re: Radio problem (Chad Stenson)
17. 12:08 PM - Re: Radio problem (Matt Prather)
18. 12:26 PM - Re: Wig Wag help (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 01:28 PM - Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector (Richard V. Reynolds)
20. 02:37 PM - Ammeter readings (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
21. 02:53 PM - Re: Ammeter readings (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
22. 03:30 PM - Re: Ammeter readings (Matt Prather)
23. 04:13 PM - AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed (Charlie Kuss)
24. 04:37 PM - Re: Ammeter readings (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
25. 05:55 PM - Why electrical interruption on start?? (David Schaefer)
26. 07:07 PM - Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed (John Schroeder)
27. 07:07 PM - Re: Radio problem (Ron Koyich)
28. 07:20 PM - Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
29. 09:49 PM - Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed (Richard E. Tasker)
30. 10:10 PM - Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Neil,
Go to the avionics wiring section of CompUSA and get a computer cable with the
correct number of pins and male/female connectors. Cut the cable in half, use
one end for the stick and the other to connect to your system
Be careful, on some cables, not all the pins are wired. The small wires (usually
26 AWG) are just right for connecting to the stick switches.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A flying
Neil Clayton wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>
> Bob....I spent two frustrating hours trying to solder a D-sub connector
> onto the 19+ wires of an Infinity Stick. The idea is to be able to remove
> the stick during annuals, etc. I eventually threw up the idea and decided
> there MUST be some kind of professional jig for wiring these things.
> Can you direct me to such a device?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Neil
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Nice solution, Richard. How do the small wires in the computer cable do
with the large currents for the airbrake, trim, etc?
Perhaps you don't have those items wired to your stick?
Thx
Neil
At 04:45 AM 8/10/2004, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds"
><rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
>Neil,
>
>Go to the avionics wiring section of CompUSA and get a computer cable with the
>correct number of pins and male/female connectors. Cut the cable in half, use
>one end for the stick and the other to connect to your system
>
>Be careful, on some cables, not all the pins are wired. The small wires
>(usually
>26 AWG) are just right for connecting to the stick switches.
>
>Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A flying
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Richard, can you point me to the URL of these prewired connectors?
Thanks
Rumen
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from Richard V. Reynolds; Date: 04:45 AM
8/10/2004 -0400)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds"
<rvreynolds@macs.net>
Neil,
Go to the avionics wiring section of CompUSA and get a computer cable with the
correct number of pins and male/female connectors. Cut the cable in half, use
one end for the stick and the other to connect to your system
Be careful, on some cables, not all the pins are wired. The small wires
(usually
26 AWG) are just right for connecting to the stick switches.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A flying
.........................
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Neil -
If you are using MAC servos and relays for trim, they use AWG 26 wiring.
They do not use much current. Re the speed brakes: you could use 24 AWG
to activate a relay.
> How do the small wires in the computer cable do
> with the large currents for the airbrake, trim, etc?
> Perhaps you don't have those items wired to your stick?
Message 5
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"'aeroelectric-list@matronics.com'"@matronics.com
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
Don,
I will check it out. A solid state contactor? Sounds like by the time I
build my airplane, the only moving parts will be the flight controls and the
engine!
Thanks for the info.
Dennis Glaeser
-----Original Message-----
From: DON RUSSELL [mailto:jean_don@msn.com]
Subject:
Dennis,
Your diagram looks straight out of Bob's book and I agree with your
approach. I wired my GlaStar using Nuckol's diagrams and have been flying
for over three years now with no problems. I would like to direct you to
www.periheliondesign.com <http://www.periheliondesign.com> to look at
Eric's devises. Eric is using Bob Nuckols ideas and updating them with
modern solid state devices. Check out his diagrams and you will find even
better ways to control and automaticly switch two batteries. I am currently
testing his solid state battery contactor which has a rated capacity of 1280
amps!!!---And---it only weighs about 1 ounce and is bolted directly to the
battery. Eric has some great devices that should be a part of any new
diagrams for dual battery use in aircraft.
Don Russell
Message
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Don,
I will check it out. A solid state
contactor? Sounds likeby the time I build my airplane, the only
moving parts will be the flight controls and the engine!
Thanks for the info.
Dennis Glaeser
-----Original Message-----
From: DON RUSSELL
[mailto:jean_don@msn.com]
PM
Subject:
<!--[gte IE 5]><![endif]-->
Dennis,
Your diagram looks straight out of Bob's book and I agree with your
approach. I wired my GlaStar using Nuckol's diagrams and have been
flying for over three years now with no problems. I would like to direct
you to <A titlehttp://www.periheliondesign.com/
">www.periheliondesign.com to look at
Eric's devises. Eric is using Bob Nuckols ideas and updating them with
modern solid state devices. Check out his diagrams and you will find
even better ways to control and automaticly switch two batteries. I am
currently testing his solid state battery contactor which has a rated capacity
of 1280 amps!!!---And---it only weighs about 1 ounce and is bolted directly to
the battery. Eric has some great devices that should be a part of any
new diagrams for dual battery use in aircraft.
Don Russell
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Bob,
Do you prefer double walled heat shrink over single walled? I have used
both and lean towards double walled.
Do you know a source for double walled heat shrink in white?
Steve
RV7A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Architecture for 2 batteries and 1 |
alternator on juliet
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
alternator on juliet
>
>
> Anyway Bob's Z-30 keeps the contactors pretty much as per your diagram.
>And elsewhere he shows how to wire the start switch to automatically
>close the contactor during engine cranking. So yes I'm suggesting that
>you leave the aux battery contactor open except for engine starting then
>but bypass it with one of the 25 amp diode blocks so that it can always
>accept a charge. (Or maybe use one of Eric's shotky diodes for an even
>lower voltage drop.) Wired like that I'd call it a crossfeed contactor
>instead of an aux battery contactor but an apple is an apple no matter
>what we call it ;)
Why diodes? If you have active notification of low voltage
(which should be present in any airplane irrespective of
engine or ignition configuration) then there is ample warning of
alternator failure for prompting proper positioning
of switches in a dual battery installation using ordinary
contactors. For all normal ops, both battery switches ON.
If the low voltage light comes on, you have plenty of time
to open battery master switches, shut down ignition that
runs from main battery, and close the e-bus alternate
feed switch. This configures the aircraft for minimum
current consumption for endurance mode of flight and maximizes
reserves in the batteries for the approach and landing.
If one finds some comfort in automating operation of the
aux battery by means of the feature offered in our LVM/ABMM
product, fine . . . but it's a gee-whiz. You STILL have
certain duties to perform when the light comes on whether or
not the aux battery management is automated to any degree.
Someone mentioned some concerns about "discharging both
batteries". How would this happen? As soon as the low voltage
light comes on (seconds after alternator failure) the
pilot takes the simple steps cited above to isolate the two
batteries to their respective, independent tasks. Are
we worrying too much about things that shouldn't be worried
about?
Bob . . .
---
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Re: Architecture for 2 batteries |
and 1 alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
and 1 alternator
> My question is:
>what kind of failure could occur which would NOT trigger the LV warning, but
>could drain the batteries?
None
Bob . . .
---
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 12:02 PM 8/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>I agree. I used a 25 Pin D-Dub for my infinity stick and it workes like
>a champ. And I'll be able to get the grip off if I ever need to.
>You'll most likely need the pin crimping tool for something else like
>radio or transponder anyway.
>
>If you still want to use the soldered connectors go to Radio Smack
>("You've got questions, We've got dumb looks") and get one of those
>little helping hand jigs that have the articulating aligator clips.
>
>Godspeed,
>
>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
>http://www.myrv7.com
also for some techniques dealing with d-sub connectors
see:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
Bob . . .
---
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 10:17 AM 8/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mickey Billings" <mbilli@cox.net>
>
>Does anyone know the difference between audio high and audio low on the
>radio pin output?
Audio Lo is the ground side of the audio path.
Bob . . .
---
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Stenson <cjstenson@ameritech.net>
Hello everyone. I'm having a terrible time getting the radio to work properly in
my Avid Flyer. The plane uses a Rotax 532 2 stroke engine. I'm using resistor
plugs to eliminate any ignition noise (which there isn't any anyway). Here's
the setup: Handheld radio mounted to instrument panel wired directly to 12V power.
I have the headset adapter for the radio hooked in to my intercom. I have
a piece of coax coming out of the top of the radio, running across the
top of the door area, and then hooking up to the antenna that is mounted to the
removable turtle deck. The shielding on the coax is soldered to the turtle deck
for a gound plane. A little history now... I've tried 3 different antennas,
2 different radios and ran them both off AA batteries as well as the 12v power
from the plane. The problem that I'm having is that periodically the radio
seems to hang the receive side of the radio open as though the squelch was
turned all the way down (open squelch). In fact, I have to run with the squelch
turned all the way up and this still happens. I can transmit and receive just
fine, but this noise (for lack of a better term) is really annoying. I thought
it was maybe the radio (which is a brand new Vertex Standard VXA210) so I tried
my other radio (which is an
Icom A5. Same problem with both radios. I have tried running with a large choke
on the power supply as well with no avail. I shipped the radio back to vertex
standard yesterday after talking to their tech department, but I suspect that
they won't find anything wrong. The thing that is so frustrating about this is
that I'm using the same setup that almost everyone with my kind of plane and
engine combination uses. No one else is having this problem. Anyway, I can
offer more specifics, but that's what I need help with. Anyone with insight into
a possible solution please reply, I'd sure like some advice.
Regards.
chad
Sent through e-mol. E-mail, Anywhere, Anytime. http://www.e-mol.com
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Thanks all for the comments. Odd everyone steered me to VANS since it is an
RV I am building. Never thought to look beyond 'Spruce.
Steve.
---
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 10:42 AM 8/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>Bob,
>
>Do you prefer double walled heat shrink over single walled? I have used
>both and lean towards double walled.
>
>Do you know a source for double walled heat shrink in white?
>
>Steve
>RV7A
I used the double wall when extra stiffness or some degree
of sealing in the finished joint is useful. About the only place
I use it routinely is to finish off the joints on soldered on
terminals for fat wires . . . especially welding cable.
This is fairly rare in the overall use of heatshrink here
in my shop. 95% of our heatshrink stocks are the single
wall.
I'm not aware of any double wall availability in anything
but black.
Bob . . .
---
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Radio problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 12:37 PM 8/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Stenson
><cjstenson@ameritech.net>
>
>Hello everyone. I'm having a terrible time getting the radio to work
>properly in my Avid Flyer. The plane uses a Rotax 532 2 stroke engine. I'm
>using resistor plugs to eliminate any ignition noise (which there isn't
>any anyway). Here's the setup: Handheld radio mounted to instrument panel
>wired directly to 12V power. I have the headset adapter for the radio
>hooked in to my intercom. I have a piece of coax coming out of the top of
>the radio, running across the
>top of the door area, and then hooking up to the antenna that is mounted
>to the removable turtle deck. The shielding on the coax is soldered to the
>turtle deck for a gound plane. A little history now... I've tried 3
>different antennas, 2 different radios and ran them both off AA batteries
>as well as the 12v power from the plane. The problem that I'm having is
>that periodically the radio seems to hang the receive side of the radio
>open as though the squelch was
>turned all the way down (open squelch). In fact, I have to run with the
>squelch turned all the way up and this still happens. I can transmit and
>receive just fine, but this noise (for lack of a better term) is really
>annoying. I thought it was maybe the radio (which is a brand new Vertex
>Standard VXA210) so I tried my other radio (which is an
>Icom A5. Same problem with both radios. I have tried running with a large
>choke on the power supply as well with no avail. I shipped the radio back
>to vertex standard yesterday after talking to their tech department, but I
>suspect that they won't find anything wrong. The thing that is so
>frustrating about this is that I'm using the same setup that almost
>everyone with my kind of plane and engine combination uses. No one else is
>having this problem. Anyway, I can
>offer more specifics, but that's what I need help with. Anyone with
>insight into a possible solution please reply, I'd sure like some advice.
>
>Regards.
>
>chad
If both radios are experiencing the same problem this
suggests that your airplane has some source of radio frequency noise
that is fooling the radio into believing a signal is present and
the squelch opens. Does it happen with the rubber duck antenna as
a pure hand-held? Have you tried turning off other accessories
while the radio was having problems to see if the problem goes away?
Bob . . .
---
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag help |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the info, Bob.
I did as Jaye and Scott Jackson recommended - I got out the ohmmeter and
solved
the problem. The Wig Wag now wig wags as advertised.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------------------
Time: 08:42:21 AM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wig Wag help
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
At 08:05 PM 8/8/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
>
>
>First thing comes to mind is a problem I had wiring up my 6 as per Bob's
>manual: the switches' terminals didn't necessarily work as per the drawings.
>Had to use an ohmmeter, a good, hard look at how the switch was
supposed to
>work in the drawings, and I think I scratched out about half my remaining
>hair.
>It all worked out in the end.
>Bob does alude to the fact that some of the switches he supplies have the
>terminals numbered differently than what he spec'd in the drawings.
>Scott in VAncouver
>RV-6
Here's a link to the data sheet that speaks to vairability
in terminal numbering between various brands of switches. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Carling_Micro/Carling_Micro.pdf
Bob . . .
---
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Radio problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Stenson <cjstenson@ameritech.net>
The problem seems to go away with the rubber duck hooked directly to the handheld,
however, no one can hear me when I transmit due to the radio being inside
the cockpit. I could try to build a ground plane/antenna mount and isolate it
from the rest of the airframe as test too I guess. I agree that it is likely
some kind of issue that is being generated by the airframe, just don't know how
to try to fix it or isolate the problem.
thanks for your response.
chad
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 12:37 PM 8/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Stenson
><cjstenson@ameritech.net>
>
>Hello everyone. I'm having a terrible time getting the radio to work
>properly in my Avid Flyer. The plane uses a Rotax 532 2 stroke engine. I'm
>using resistor plugs to eliminate any ignition noise (which there isn't
>any anyway). Here's the setup: Handheld radio mounted to instrument panel
>wired directly to 12V power. I have the headset adapter for the radio
>hooked in to my intercom. I have a piece of coax coming out of the top of
>the radio, running across the
>top of the door area, and then hooking up to the antenna that is mounted
>to the removable turtle deck. The shielding on the coax is soldered to the
>turtle deck for a gound plane. A little history now... I've tried 3
>different antennas, 2 different radios and ran them both off AA batteries
>as well as the 12v power from the plane. The problem that I'm having is
>that periodically the radio seems to hang the receive side of the radio
>open as though the squelch was
>turned all the way down (open squelch). In fact, I have to run with the
>squelch turned all the way up and this still happens. I can transmit and
>receive just fine, but this noise (for lack of a better term) is really
>annoying. I thought it was maybe the radio (which is a brand new Vertex
>Standard VXA210) so I tried my other radio (which is an
>Icom A5. Same problem with both radios. I have tried running with a large
>choke on the power supply as well with no avail. I shipped the radio back
>to vertex standard yesterday after talking to their tech department, but I
>suspect that they won't find anything wrong. The thing that is so
>frustrating about this is that I'm using the same setup that almost
>everyone with my kind of plane and engine combination uses. No one else is
>having this problem. Anyway, I can
>offer more specifics, but that's what I need help with. Anyone with
>insight into a possible solution please reply, I'd sure like some advice.
>
>Regards.
>
>chad
If both radios are experiencing the same problem this
suggests that your airplane has some source of radio frequency noise
that is fooling the radio into believing a signal is present and
the squelch opens. Does it happen with the rubber duck antenna as
a pure hand-held? Have you tried turning off other accessories
while the radio was having problems to see if the problem goes away?
Bob . . .
---
Sent through e-mol. E-mail, Anywhere, Anytime. http://www.e-mol.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Radio problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Hi Chad,
How did you determine there wasn't any ignition noise?
Does the noise exist with the engine turned off, but will all systems
turned on?
Does the noise exist if the alternator is turned off (with the engine
running).
Regards,
VE N34RD, C150 N714BK
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Stenson
> <cjstenson@ameritech.net>
>
> The problem seems to go away with the rubber duck hooked directly to the
> handheld, however, no one can hear me when I transmit due to the radio
> being inside the cockpit. I could try to build a ground plane/antenna
> mount and isolate it from the rest of the airframe as test too I guess.
> I agree that it is likely some kind of issue that is being generated by
> the airframe, just don't know how to try to fix it or isolate the
> problem.
>
> thanks for your response.
> chad
>
>
> aeroelectric-list@matronics.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 12:37 PM 8/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Stenson
> ><cjstenson@ameritech.net>
> >
> >Hello everyone. I'm having a terrible time getting the radio to work
> properly in my Avid Flyer. The plane uses a Rotax 532 2 stroke engine.
> I'm using resistor plugs to eliminate any ignition noise (which there
> isn't any anyway). Here's the setup: Handheld radio mounted to
> instrument panel wired directly to 12V power. I have the headset
> adapter for the radio hooked in to my intercom. I have a piece of
> coax coming out of the top of the radio, running across the
> >top of the door area, and then hooking up to the antenna that is
> mounted to the removable turtle deck. The shielding on the coax is
> soldered to the turtle deck for a gound plane. A little history
> now... I've tried 3 different antennas, 2 different radios and ran
> them both off AA batteries as well as the 12v power from the plane.
> The problem that I'm having is that periodically the radio seems to
> hang the receive side of the radio open as though the squelch was
> >turned all the way down (open squelch). In fact, I have to run with
> the squelch turned all the way up and this still happens. I can
> transmit and receive just fine, but this noise (for lack of a better
> term) is really annoying. I thought it was maybe the radio (which is
> a brand new Vertex Standard VXA210) so I tried my other radio (which
> is an
> >Icom A5. Same problem with both radios. I have tried running with a
> large choke on the power supply as well with no avail. I shipped the
> radio back to vertex standard yesterday after talking to their tech
> department, but I suspect that they won't find anything wrong. The
> thing that is so frustrating about this is that I'm using the same
> setup that almost everyone with my kind of plane and engine
> combination uses. No one else is having this problem. Anyway, I can
> >offer more specifics, but that's what I need help with. Anyone with
> insight into a possible solution please reply, I'd sure like some
> advice.
> >
> >Regards.
> >
> >chad
>
> If both radios are experiencing the same problem this
> suggests that your airplane has some source of radio frequency noise
> that is fooling the radio into believing a signal is present and the
> squelch opens. Does it happen with the rubber duck antenna as a pure
> hand-held? Have you tried turning off other accessories while the
> radio was having problems to see if the problem goes away?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ---
>
>
> Sent through e-mol. E-mail, Anywhere, Anytime. http://www.e-mol.com
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag help |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:02 PM 8/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles E. Brame"
><charleyb@earthlink.net>
>
>Thanks for the info, Bob.
>
>I did as Jaye and Scott Jackson recommended - I got out the ohmmeter and
>solved
>the problem. The Wig Wag now wig wags as advertised.
Good work!
Bob . . .
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Neil,
I wired my RayAllen G7 grips to RayAllen relays for the aileron and elevation
trim. There was the PPT switch and the autopilot engage/mode switches. I used
separate grounds for the various groups. I had no high current wires.
Richard Reynolds
Neil Clayton wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>
> Nice solution, Richard. How do the small wires in the computer cable do
> with the large currents for the airbrake, trim, etc?
> Perhaps you don't have those items wired to your stick?
>
> Thx
> Neil
>
> At 04:45 AM 8/10/2004, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds"
> ><rvreynolds@macs.net>
> >
> >Neil,
> >
> >Go to the avionics wiring section of CompUSA and get a computer cable with the
> >correct number of pins and male/female connectors. Cut the cable in half, use
> >one end for the stick and the other to connect to your system
> >
> >Be careful, on some cables, not all the pins are wired. The small wires
> >(usually
> >26 AWG) are just right for connecting to the stick switches.
> >
> >Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A flying
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Ammeter readings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Bob:
I wired my RV-6 as per figure Z-2, dated 04/00, but with the shunt located and
ammeter wired as per Z-4 of the same date.
I very much enjoyed reading your manual and feel that I learned more about electrical
systems than any other aspect of making an airplane, and it has worked
almost perfectly for 150 hours.
The one problem you previously addressed-that of the bouncing ammeter needle-
still exists, and can only be made to go away by jumpering the 12v+ from the
regulator right to the main fuse block, bypassing the field breaker. I've tried
jumpering the individual components and wires in the circuit, but can't isolate
the problem. Nor does an ohmmeter indicate high resistance anywhere.
I can live with that, although the pulsing lights at night give me pause, wondering
about the effect on solid-state radios.
The other issue that I hope you can address is the actual indications of the
ammeter. I understood that wiring the shunt/ammeter into the alternator B-lead
as per Z-4 would make it read as an alternator loadmeter, and not a charge/discharge
indicator, which it would were it wired into the battery lead as usual.
It partly works. It doesn't indicate a discharge while the starter motor is cranking
the engine. And it does indicate a healthy charge immediately after starting.
But then it slowly drifts back to zero, and, other than that infuriating
pulsing to the positive side of about five amps, accompanied by an audible
pinging in the headphones, stays at zero when not pulsing regardless of the load
on the system.
I've traced the wiring, from B-lead, through shunt, to 50A breaker, to starter
solenoid, and everything appears in order.
I wondered if you might have any ideas.
Thanks,
Scott
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Ammeter readings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
NOthing like replying to my own post!
I'm beginning to think the ammeter IS trying to work as it should, but the
regulator is handling the electrical load by rapidly pulsing the alternator
field rather than a steady output.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ammeter readings
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
<jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
> Bob:
> I wired my RV-6 as per figure Z-2, dated 04/00, but with the shunt
located and ammeter wired as per Z-4 of the same date.
> I very much enjoyed reading your manual and feel that I learned more
about electrical systems than any other aspect of making an airplane, and it
has worked almost perfectly for 150 hours.
> The one problem you previously addressed-that of the bouncing ammeter
needle- still exists, and can only be made to go away by jumpering the 12v+
from the regulator right to the main fuse block, bypassing the field
breaker. I've tried jumpering the individual components and wires in the
circuit, but can't isolate the problem. Nor does an ohmmeter indicate high
resistance anywhere.
> I can live with that, although the pulsing lights at night give me
pause, wondering about the effect on solid-state radios.
> The other issue that I hope you can address is the actual indications of
the ammeter. I understood that wiring the shunt/ammeter into the alternator
B-lead as per Z-4 would make it read as an alternator loadmeter, and not a
charge/discharge indicator, which it would were it wired into the battery
lead as usual.
> It partly works. It doesn't indicate a discharge while the starter motor
is cranking the engine. And it does indicate a healthy charge immediately
after starting. But then it slowly drifts back to zero, and, other than that
infuriating pulsing to the positive side of about five amps, accompanied by
an audible pinging in the headphones, stays at zero when not pulsing
regardless of the load on the system.
> I've traced the wiring, from B-lead, through shunt, to 50A breaker, to
starter solenoid, and everything appears in order.
> I wondered if you might have any ideas.
> Thanks,
> Scott
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Ammeter readings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Probably an irrelevant question, but roughly what is the frequency of the
audible pinging sound? I don't suppose it coincides with the flashing of
the airplane's anticollision strobes...
Regards,
Matt-
VE N34RD C150 N714BK
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
> Bob:
> I wired my RV-6 as per figure Z-2, dated 04/00, but with the shunt
> located and ammeter wired as per Z-4 of the same date. I very much
> enjoyed reading your manual and feel that I learned more about
> electrical systems than any other aspect of making an airplane, and it
> has worked almost perfectly for 150 hours. The one problem you
> previously addressed-that of the bouncing ammeter needle- still
> exists, and can only be made to go away by jumpering the 12v+ from the
> regulator right to the main fuse block, bypassing the field breaker.
> I've tried jumpering the individual components and wires in the
> circuit, but can't isolate the problem. Nor does an ohmmeter indicate
> high resistance anywhere. I can live with that, although the pulsing
> lights at night give me pause, wondering about the effect on
> solid-state radios. The other issue that I hope you can address is the
> actual indications of the ammeter. I understood that wiring the
> shunt/ammeter into the alternator B-lead as per Z-4 would make it read
> as an alternator loadmeter, and not a charge/discharge indicator,
> which it would were it wired into the battery lead as usual. It partly
> works. It doesn't indicate a discharge while the starter motor is
> cranking the engine. And it does indicate a healthy charge immediately
> after starting. But then it slowly drifts back to zero, and, other
> than that infuriating pulsing to the positive side of about five amps,
> accompanied by an audible pinging in the headphones, stays at zero
> when not pulsing regardless of the load on the system. I've traced the
> wiring, from B-lead, through shunt, to 50A breaker, to starter
> solenoid, and everything appears in order. I wondered if you might
> have any ideas.
> Thanks,
> Scott
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Listers,
Has anyone using AutoCAD made a diagram or symbol for a rotary style
switch? I'm using a 2 pole, 4 throw rotary switch to control the flash
pattern on my Nova 906 strobe power supply. I'm still a newbie at AutoCAD.
Drawing circular stuff from scratch is tough for me. Can anyone help?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit wiring
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Ammeter readings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Matt:
Everything's relevant!
The pinging sound is not from the strobes, it happens as long as the
alternator is turning, regardless of whether the strobes are flashing or
not.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ammeter readings
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather"
<mprather@spro.net>
>
> Probably an irrelevant question, but roughly what is the frequency of the
> audible pinging sound? I don't suppose it coincides with the flashing of
> the airplane's anticollision strobes...
>
> Regards,
>
> Matt-
> VE N34RD C150 N714BK
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> > <jayeandscott@telus.net>
> >
> > Bob:
> > I wired my RV-6 as per figure Z-2, dated 04/00, but with the shunt
> > located and ammeter wired as per Z-4 of the same date. I very much
> > enjoyed reading your manual and feel that I learned more about
> > electrical systems than any other aspect of making an airplane, and it
> > has worked almost perfectly for 150 hours. The one problem you
> > previously addressed-that of the bouncing ammeter needle- still
> > exists, and can only be made to go away by jumpering the 12v+ from the
> > regulator right to the main fuse block, bypassing the field breaker.
> > I've tried jumpering the individual components and wires in the
> > circuit, but can't isolate the problem. Nor does an ohmmeter indicate
> > high resistance anywhere. I can live with that, although the pulsing
> > lights at night give me pause, wondering about the effect on
> > solid-state radios. The other issue that I hope you can address is the
> > actual indications of the ammeter. I understood that wiring the
> > shunt/ammeter into the alternator B-lead as per Z-4 would make it read
> > as an alternator loadmeter, and not a charge/discharge indicator,
> > which it would were it wired into the battery lead as usual. It partly
> > works. It doesn't indicate a discharge while the starter motor is
> > cranking the engine. And it does indicate a healthy charge immediately
> > after starting. But then it slowly drifts back to zero, and, other
> > than that infuriating pulsing to the positive side of about five amps,
> > accompanied by an audible pinging in the headphones, stays at zero
> > when not pulsing regardless of the load on the system. I've traced the
> > wiring, from B-lead, through shunt, to 50A breaker, to starter
> > solenoid, and everything appears in order. I wondered if you might
> > have any ideas.
> > Thanks,
> > Scott
> >
> >
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Why electrical interruption on start?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
Bob ..I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Z-14 with the exception
that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft. That said, I have two
Grand Rapids displays each with two separate power wires wired to the two
different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence again each
time I hit the starter!
Thanks...
DWS
Finished RV6-A
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Charlie -
I use AutoCAD a lot, but that is one block i don't have. If you get one,
let me know. I'd like a copy.
Cheers,
John
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 19:14:12 -0400, Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Listers,
> Has anyone using AutoCAD made a diagram or symbol for a rotary style
> switch? I'm using a 2 pole, 4 throw rotary switch to control the flash
> pattern on my Nova 906 strobe power supply.
Message 27
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
Hi, Chad - from my viewpoint as an old avionics guy who has, in the
past, installed radios in a number of aircraft without shielded ignition
systems, your problem sounds exactly the same as ignition interference.
You say there is none - how did you determine that 'fact?' As someone
else asked, what happens to the noise when you turn off the ignition?
The most recent experience with this was a friend's Stearman, with the
antenna on the turtle deck. He moved the antenna further back and the
noise was significantly reduced, to the point where he can communicate.
The other aircraft with the same installations but which work, may have
some differences you aren't taking into account.
Ron
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 08/10/2004 8:08:19 PM Central Standard Time,
jschroeder@perigee.net writes:
> Listers,
> Has anyone using AutoCAD made a diagram or symbol for a rotary style
> switch? I'm using a 2 pole, 4 throw rotary switch to control the flash
> pattern on my Nova 906 strobe power supply.
I've got no idea why you'd want to alter the pattern, but then, I used to run
a light show for a rock band and had a real field day with it! Got a
schematic of the switch or link to it's data sheet? Sounds like fun to "draw"
this
thing up!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I can't help with actual AutoCAD drawings of a rotary switch. I am
attaching a gif of an example of a switch schematic (which will not come
through on the list).
Also, in AutoCAD, to create multiple things in a circle:. Just draw one
of whatever it is you want in the circle. Then go to Modify:Array (at
least that is the menu items in my AutoCAD LT98). Yours may differ in
location. You should see "Polar Array" somewhere in the window that
opens. If you click that you can then duplicate whatever you drew in a
circular array as many times as you want. Play with it a little. It is
pretty easy once you figure it out it.
Dick Tasker
Do not archive
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
>Listers,
> Has anyone using AutoCAD made a diagram or symbol for a rotary style
>switch? I'm using a 2 pole, 4 throw rotary switch to control the flash
>pattern on my Nova 906 strobe power supply. I'm still a newbie at AutoCAD.
>Drawing circular stuff from scratch is tough for me. Can anyone help?
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8A cockpit wiring
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: AutoCAD Rotary switch diagram needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:14 PM 8/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
>Listers,
> Has anyone using AutoCAD made a diagram or symbol for a rotary style
>switch? I'm using a 2 pole, 4 throw rotary switch to control the flash
>pattern on my Nova 906 strobe power supply. I'm still a newbie at AutoCAD.
>Drawing circular stuff from scratch is tough for me. Can anyone help?
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8A cockpit wiring
Sure. Check out http://www.aeroelectric.com/AutoCAD_Drawings/2P4T_Rotary.dwg
There are two styles of two-pole, four-position switch schematics
posted there. Take your pick.
Bob . . .
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