AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sat 08/21/04


Total Messages Posted: 20



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:13 AM - Re: Microair760 Radio and PM501 Intercom (Steve Sampson)
     2. 05:54 AM - Re: Microair760 Radio and PM501 Intercom (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 05:58 AM - Re: Microair760 Radio and PM501 Intercom (rd2@evenlink.com)
     4. 06:08 AM - Re: Re: Sales and/or Technical Information (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 06:18 AM - Re: Trim relays (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 09:54 AM - Re: Starting Power (Brian Lloyd)
     7. 10:28 AM - Re: Starting Power (Gert)
     8. 11:04 AM - Re: So long, and thanks for all the fish! (Brian Lloyd)
     9. 11:28 AM - Back EMF (was: trim relays) (Brian Lloyd)
    10. 12:00 PM - Re: Starting Power (Brian Lloyd)
    11. 12:41 PM - Re: Starting Power (Gert)
    12. 12:49 PM - Re: CH products stick grip (Richard E. Tasker)
    13. 01:01 PM - Re: CH products stick grip (Richard E. Tasker)
    14. 01:57 PM - Re: Starting Power (Brian Lloyd)
    15. 03:28 PM - Antenna Question (Charles E. Brame)
    16. 04:29 PM - Re: So long, and thanks for all the fish! (Dale Alexander)
    17. 05:03 PM - Re: Re: So long, and thanks for all the fish! (Trampas)
    18. 05:29 PM - DC Power Master Switch (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
    19. 05:47 PM - Re: Antenna Question (Richard E. Tasker)
    20. 06:16 PM - Re: Starting Power (Gert)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:13:55 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
    Subject: Microair760 Radio and PM501 Intercom
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Bob - I am getting 'file damaged' messages on that. Is it opening OK at your end? Thanks, Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Microair760 Radio and PM501 Intercom --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> At 08:46 PM 8/18/2004 +0100, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" ><SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> > >Can anyone point me to a wiring diagram showing how to wire up these two >units as one system? Thanks, Steve. The instruction manual for our audio isolation amplifier has some exemplar audio wiring diagrams. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9009/9009-700E.pdf Bob . . . --- --- ---


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:54:23 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Microair760 Radio and PM501 Intercom
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> At 08:15 AM 8/21/2004 +0100, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" ><SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> > >Bob - I am getting 'file damaged' messages on that. Is it opening OK at your >end? Thanks, Steve. Yes. It's a big file. Some browser/acrobat combos barf on large files if you left-click to download and open immediately. Try right-clicking the link and tell your computer where to store it on a hard drive. Don't try to open it until download is complete. Bob . . . ---


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:58:14 AM PST US
    From: rd2@evenlink.com
    Subject: Microair760 Radio and PM501 Intercom
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com Steve, the file is ok, I had the same problem at first, this is how it got solved: try downloading the file with right click (use "save target as") instead of opening it in the browser; after it is downloaded and saved, open it - if it indicates "damaged" again, try re-saving again. Rumen _____________________Original message __________________________ (received from Steve Sampson; Date: 08:15 AM 8/21/2004 +0100) --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Bob - I am getting 'file damaged' messages on that. Is it opening OK at your end? Thanks, Steve.


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:08:18 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: RE: Sales and/or Technical Information
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> At 01:52 PM 8/20/2004 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: erie <erie@shelbyvilledesign.com> > >Wicks has it, lifetime supply for about $16... I looked at the Wicks site and didn't find it the first time. Thanks for the head's up. Here's a link to the item description on Wicks: http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=8220~subid=2051/index.html Bob . . . ---


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:18:31 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Trim relays
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> At 01:35 PM 8/20/2004 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net> > >When you open the circuit feeding a largely inductive device like a >motor the magnetic field inside the device begins to collapse and that >keeps the motor running for a period of time (in this case probably >milliseconds). If you ground both motor leads you cause all this energy >to go straight to ground and the motor will stop. This is probably an >oversimplification but it is the way that I understand it. Close . . . but it's not "field collapse" that we're shorting out but counter EMF of the motor which is acting like a generator during the motor's spin down interval. One can take a PM motor like those used in RAC actuators, mount a set of anemometer cups on it, stick it up on the roof and hook a voltmeter to the wires calibrated in wind speed. PM motors make nice little generators by putting mechanical energy into the shaft and taking electrical energy out of the wires. When you release the trim switch the obvious first step is to remove external electrical power that causes the motor to move. Milliseconds later, it may be useful to throw a dead short across the motor so that energy produced during motor spin down is dumped into the short. Without this "dynamic braking" circuit, only friction and load drag brings the motor's armature to a halt. The dead short can dramatically improve stopping response in some systems . . . but in the case the RAC servos, I suspect the effect will be difficult to perceive. Bob . . . ---


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:54:26 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Starting Power
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> On Aug 20, 2004, at 12:18 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> By the way, BlueMountain is very clear about needing a second battery >> to >> prevent a reset during starting if you want the engine gauges built >> into >> the EFIS One immediately upon start up. Would this capacitor trick >> work >> with their 3 amp requirement? > > Don't know without trying it or having more data on the details > of that products operation. Are you in a position to do some > experiments to explore it? Greg at Blue Mountain says that the problem only affects his stuff when running on a 14V electrical system the voltage stays high enough with a 28V electrical system to not be a problem even during cranking. Somewhat on topic: there are advantages to having an air-start system. No high starting current. The Chinese aircraft use the Russian system of high-pressure compressed air to turn the engine over so my starting current is what is needed to pull in the air solenoid, about 6A. The pneumatic system also actuates the gear, flaps, and brakes. The nice thing about a pneumatic system is that, unlike hydraulics, even if you have a leak you can keep making more of the working fluid. Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:28:21 AM PST US
    From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
    Subject: Re: Starting Power
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com> So what do you do when you have a leak and your teank pressure is too low to facilitate a start?? it's my understanding, maybe wrong, that you need quite a few PSI to get the engine started. At least one can go to the store and get hydraulic fluid. getting a tank filled to the pressures needed is a whole different ballgame Gert Brian Lloyd wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> > > On Aug 20, 2004, at 12:18 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > >>>By the way, BlueMountain is very clear about needing a second battery >>>to >>>prevent a reset during starting if you want the engine gauges built >>>into >>>the EFIS One immediately upon start up. Would this capacitor trick >>>work >>>with their 3 amp requirement? >> >> Don't know without trying it or having more data on the details >> of that products operation. Are you in a position to do some >> experiments to explore it? > > > Greg at Blue Mountain says that the problem only affects his stuff when > running on a 14V electrical system the voltage stays high enough with a > 28V electrical system to not be a problem even during cranking. > > Somewhat on topic: there are advantages to having an air-start system. > No high starting current. The Chinese aircraft use the Russian system > of high-pressure compressed air to turn the engine over so my starting > current is what is needed to pull in the air solenoid, about 6A. The > pneumatic system also actuates the gear, flaps, and brakes. The nice > thing about a pneumatic system is that, unlike hydraulics, even if you > have a leak you can keep making more of the working fluid. > > Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza > brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 > +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802 > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:04:51 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: So long, and thanks for all the fish!
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> On Aug 20, 2004, at 3:21 PM, John Slade wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" > <sladerj@bellsouth.net> > >> the only question I can find concerns >> listening to the knock sensor. Is this the question you're >> referring to? > Yes. I was looking for information about amplification. Bryan answered > it > last night. Thanks, Bryan. You are welcome. Let me know how it turns out. > John Slade > Turbo Rotary Cozy IV > http://canardaviation.com/cozy > Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:28:39 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Back EMF (was: trim relays)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> On Aug 21, 2004, at 9:15 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> > > At 01:35 PM 8/20/2004 -0500, you wrote: > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach >> <phil@petrasoft.net> >> >> When you open the circuit feeding a largely inductive device like a >> motor the magnetic field inside the device begins to collapse and that >> keeps the motor running for a period of time (in this case probably >> milliseconds). If you ground both motor leads you cause all this >> energy >> to go straight to ground and the motor will stop. This is probably an >> oversimplification but it is the way that I understand it. > > Close . . . but it's not "field collapse" that we're shorting > out but counter EMF of the motor which is acting like a generator > during the motor's spin down interval. I had a really weird starting problem on my Comanche for a number of years that turned out to be related to this. The problem started when we replaced the engine and the new engine came equipped with a retard-breaker magneto (shower of sparks). It seemed to me that the engine was always harder to start now. We ended up replacing batteries and starters in an attempt to remedy the problem to no avail. Then I noticed one day that the engine didn't really start until shortly AFTER I released the starter button. I found that I could get relatively good starts by very short cranking intervals. Paying extra close attention I noticed that, not only did it start after I released the button is was like 1/2 second after releasing the start button that it really started. Everything in the shower of sparks system tested properly as did both running and starting ignition timing. I then traced down the wiring and found that whoever had wired the shower of sparks system had wired the retard relay to the starter side of the starter solenoid. When the engine fired and kicked the Bendix out, the starter spun up to a high speed. When I released the start button the back EMF from the starter held the retard relay in keeping left mag retarded and the right mag off until the starter spun down. Of course it didn't run right. I then moved the power for the retard relay from the output of the starter solenoid to the coil of the starter solenoid (solenoid pulled in by application of 12V) and the problem was solved. I tried to explain the problem and solution to the A&P and IA who had been working on the airplane and they just looked at me like I was speaking Swahili. Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:00:53 PM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Starting Power
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> On Aug 21, 2004, at 1:27 PM, Gert wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com> > > So what do you do when you have a leak and your teank pressure is too > low to facilitate a start?? Every system has its limitations, no? Refill the tank. A SCUBA bottle, nitrogen bottle, or a strut pump work wonders for an empty tank. Many of us have a small 20 cu-ft SCUBA "pony" bottle plumbed into the system to use as "spare air". It will completely refill the system three or four times. Actually the Russian and Chinese radial engines can be coaxed to life without any air if one is careful. We prime the engine while pulling the prop through. You set one cylinder just past TDC and hit the start button. Since the engine uses a retarded starting coil (think Ford Model-T spark coil with its own vibrator) the plug gets a hot, continuous spark. The mixture in the cylinder fires and kicks the engine over. If you have primed it right it just keeps right on running. Of course you do this with the airplane tied down because, unless you turn on the emergency air system, there is no pressure to operate the brakes. A few minutes of the engine running at a high idle suffices for the compressor to fill the system up enough to make everything run properly. > it's my understanding, maybe wrong, that you need quite a few PSI to > get > the engine started. A full tank is 750 PSI (50 atm) but you can get a good start with 300 PSI if you have primed the engine properly. Actually, I have successfully gotten a good start with 175 PSI. > At least one can go to the store and get hydraulic fluid. getting a > tank > filled to the pressures needed is a whole different ballgame. It is not as hard as you might think. Most shops have a nitrogen bottle for pumping up struts or have a strut pump to make 1000 PSI air. Both work just dandy. But all-in-all, I like the pneumatic start system. It has its idiosyncrasies but it works well during those 40-below-zero Siberian and Mongolian winters. If the pneumatic system does develop a link you can turn off everything and let the compressor refill the tank. And even if that is a problem there is an emergency bottle that will operate the gear and brakes so you can get the airplane on the ground in one piece. Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:41:29 PM PST US
    From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
    Subject: Re: Starting Power
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com> Hi brian Thanks!! I was not knocking the system, I think it is rather slick, happen to talk to a yak driver at OSH who happen to mention he did not manage to get a start on a scuba tank, no strutpump out there then appearantly. I did hear about those stout russians handpropping them radials, wonder how much vodka it took.... thanks for filling in some blanks. Gert Brian Lloyd wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> > > > On Aug 21, 2004, at 1:27 PM, Gert wrote: > > >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com> >> >>So what do you do when you have a leak and your teank pressure is too >>low to facilitate a start?? > > > Every system has its limitations, no? > > Refill the tank. A SCUBA bottle, nitrogen bottle, or a strut pump work > wonders for an empty tank. Many of us have a small 20 cu-ft SCUBA > "pony" bottle plumbed into the system to use as "spare air". It will > completely refill the system three or four times. > > Actually the Russian and Chinese radial engines can be coaxed to life > without any air if one is careful. We prime the engine while pulling > the prop through. You set one cylinder just past TDC and hit the start > button. Since the engine uses a retarded starting coil (think Ford > Model-T spark coil with its own vibrator) the plug gets a hot, > continuous spark. The mixture in the cylinder fires and kicks the > engine over. If you have primed it right it just keeps right on > running. > > Of course you do this with the airplane tied down because, unless you > turn on the emergency air system, there is no pressure to operate the > brakes. > > A few minutes of the engine running at a high idle suffices for the > compressor to fill the system up enough to make everything run > properly. > > >>it's my understanding, maybe wrong, that you need quite a few PSI to >>get >>the engine started. > > > A full tank is 750 PSI (50 atm) but you can get a good start with 300 > PSI if you have primed the engine properly. Actually, I have > successfully gotten a good start with 175 PSI. > > >>At least one can go to the store and get hydraulic fluid. getting a >>tank >>filled to the pressures needed is a whole different ballgame. > > > It is not as hard as you might think. Most shops have a nitrogen > bottle for pumping up struts or have a strut pump to make 1000 PSI air. > Both work just dandy. > > But all-in-all, I like the pneumatic start system. It has its > idiosyncrasies but it works well during those 40-below-zero Siberian > and Mongolian winters. If the pneumatic system does develop a link you > can turn off everything and let the compressor refill the tank. And > even if that is a problem there is an emergency bottle that will > operate the gear and brakes so you can get the airplane on the ground > in one piece. > > Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza > brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 > +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802 > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:49:52 PM PST US
    From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: CH products stick grip
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net> This is a copy of the email I received from Kevin when I purchased my CH sticks in Dec. 03: "Hi Richard. The switches in the sticks are momentary only, they are used for contact only. If you are using then for trim servos or speed brakes,flaps, or any thing that uses more than 1 ma. you must use a relay. ptt or radio controls are no problem. The ray Allen co. has small relays made just for this applications If you have any questions please call. Kevin 760-598-2518. Beat regards. " Maybe they have changed the switches since then or maybe Kevin was mistaken, but if the switches are really rated at 1mA max. for rated switch life, running several tens of mA would drastically shorten their life. I will contact Kevin again to see if what he said earlier is still correct. Dick Tasker Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> > >At 09:34 AM 8/19/2004 -0400, you wrote: > > >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@sdf.lonestar.org> >> >>Looks like that might be a minimum current rating unless that was a typo. >>The arcing of switch contacts when they open and close keeps the contacts >>clean. Some switches contacts will oxidize and fail if they don't switch >>enough current to keep them clean. I see this allot on the tact switches >>used on TVs and VCRs that are connected to microprocessor inputs. You get a >>symptom that one of the buttons quits working or becomes intermittent. The >>usual fix is to remove the switch and connect it to a current limited >>supply - about 50ma and actuate it a few times. >>Joel >> >> > > Good call Joel. I've been considering the original posting > and I'd pretty much come to the same conclusion you did. There > no mechanically operated switch that isn't capable of handling > a hundred mA or so . . . but there are suggestions for lower > limits as you have described. > > The switches described should be just fine driving relays > having coil currents on the order of 40 to 200 mA. > > Bob . . . > > > > >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net> >>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> >>Subject: AeroElectric-List: CH products stick grip >> >> >> >> >>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams" >>> >>> >><rwayne@gamewood.net> >> >> >>>I just got a CH Products stick grip. Its got a good feel and is >>>ambidextrous. It has 4 momentary switches and a coolie hat. I was >>> >>> >>surprised >> >> >>>to see "Permissible Load: 1mA 5VDC min, (resistive load). Is this enough >>> >>> >>to >> >> >>>allow a direct connection to my MAC servo relays and radio PTT? If not, >>> >>> >>what >> >> >>>would I need to do to connect these relays? Thanks! >>> >>>Wayne >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > Bob . . . > > ----------------------------------------- > ( Experience and common sense cannot be ) > ( replaced with policy and procedures. ) > ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) > ----------------------------------------- > > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:01:41 PM PST US
    From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: CH products stick grip
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net> There is a discussion ongoing on the Aerolectric list (to which I am sending a copy of this email) regarding the ratings of the switches in the CH control sticks.. In Dec of last year, when I purchased two sticks, I wrote you (email below) to confirm that the switches in the control stick are really rated at no more than 1 mA. Your answer was that that was correct and that I should use some sort of isolator to switch any significant load (which I am doing). On the Aeroelectric list at least one user says that he is directly controlling a relay that requires 77mA to actuate. This is way more than the 1 mA limit that is specified on the data sheet that comes with the sticks. If the switches can really handle this much current without degrading their life significantly, then I may be going overboard with my switch interface board. If they cannot handle this current then some of the users of your control sticks may be in for a rude awakening someday soon when a switch fails. Please comment so we will know the facts and what we can do with the stick switches. By the way, I am very happy with the sticks regardless of the actual switch capability. If the limit is really 1 mA, that is easily handled with a simple interface board, and if it is more, then the interface board may not be needed. Thanks, Dick Tasker Kevin Williamson wrote: > At 07:57 PM 12/17/2003 -0500, you wrote: > >> I see where the info that comes with the sticks say that the switches >> must switch no more than 1 mA at no less than 5V. >> >> If I have them control TTL or CMOS gates at 5V is that okay or should >> I make sure that I switch a higher voltage? Can I assume that >> switching 12-15V is acceptable? >> >> Dick Tasker > > > Hi Richard. > The switches in the sticks are momentary only, they are used for > contact only. > If you are using then for trim servos or speed brakes,flaps, or any > thing that uses more than 1 ma. > you must use a relay. ptt or radio controls are no problem. The ray > Allen co. has small relays made just for > this applications > If you have any questions please call. Kevin 760-598-2518. > Beat regards. > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 01:57:51 PM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Starting Power
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> On Aug 21, 2004, at 3:41 PM, Gert wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com> > > Hi brian > > Thanks!! > > I was not knocking the system, I think it is rather slick, happen to > talk to a yak driver at OSH who happen to mention he did not manage to > get a start on a scuba tank, no strutpump out there then appearantly. Odd. There is a really active group from the Redstar Pilot's Association (RPA - an umbrella group supporting eastern-bloc aircraft) that was there. He should have had no problem. OTOH, he may have had other problems because those radials if properly primed usually start on the first blade. > > I did hear about those stout russians handpropping them radials, wonder > how much vodka it took.... All of it. > > thanks for filling in some blanks. You are welcome. They are great-flying airplanes once you get used to the systems differences. The Yak-52 is probably the best deal on a production airplane you can find these days. The Nanchang CJ6A has absolutely the best handling characteristics and control harmony of any airplane I have ever flown. My RV-4 was great but my CJ6A is better. No airplane I have ever flown has given me such a "good hands" feeling in all flight regimes. We even found the original designer and paid his way to Oshkosh a couple years back. It was very interesting to hear about the fledgling aircraft industry in the People's Republic of China under Chairman Mao back in the 1950's. BTW, one other thing different about these airplanes; they are designed to a 100% overload factor. That means that, if the airframe is spec'd to +6G/-3G (the CJ6A in this case), the airframe was tested to +12G/-6G before failure. The Yak-52 is spec'd at +7G/-5G. They are pretty hard to break. I provide transition training in the Nanchang CJ6A and am setting up to do it in the Yak-52. If you have any questions about the systems in these aircraft I can probably answer. Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:28:39 PM PST US
    From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Antenna Question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb@earthlink.net> I am installing a Marker Beacon antenna in my right wing tip using shielded single conductor cable as the antenna lead. I considered Electric Bob's suggestion of just exposing the last 40 inches of the lead, but I was about 20 inches short of antenna cable. So I pro-sealed a 1/2 inch wide, 40 inch strip of .016 aluminum to the bottom of the fiberglass wing tip as the antenna. Question: Does the antenna lead have to connect to the end of the aluminum strip or can it be connected anywhere along its length? (It would be most convenient to connect the lead about 15 inches from one end, if such an installation will work.) Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB San Antonio


    Message 16


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    Time: 04:29:58 PM PST US
    From: "Dale Alexander" <Dalexan48@dslextreme.com>
    Subject: Re: So long, and thanks for all the fish!
    0.7 RCVD_BY_IP Received by mail server with no name --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dale Alexander" <Dalexan48@dslextreme.com> Well John, I was going to send you a picture of a waveform for a knock sensor, but I'm not sure I like the swarmy-assed way you take Bob to task for something as valuable as his advice (which like the credit card...is priceless). I myself work too many hours a week and sometimes...I forget to get back to things. So since advice is free, I will tell you WHERE you can purchase the information. Go to your local Toyota dealer and order a late model service manual. Fair enough? Enjoy your fish. Dale Alexander Velocity 173 RG Stealth Gullwing. > > > Time: 06:59:19 AM PST US > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: So long, and thanks for all the fish! > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> > > At 08:39 PM 8/19/2004 -0400, you wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net> > > > >Aero electric people. > >My plane is now flying. Thanks to Bob's book and ongoing input, all the > >electrical gizmos are working and not interfering with each other, and the > >smoke is staying in the boxes and wires. > > > >I've asked what I though was a simple electronics question three times and > >received no answer. Perhaps I've exhausted either the knowledge or the > >patience of this exalted group. > > John, I did a search on your name for messages in my > e-mail files and the only question I can find concerns > listening to the knock sensor. Is this the question you're > referring to? > > > >Either way, I've been on this list 5 years and it's time to move on. > > > >So long, and thanks for all the fish. > > I've been on this list since day-one. I participated on > the AVSig group on Compuserve for years before that. What's > longevity have to do with utility of present participation? > > I've noted over the years that if folks are not understanding > my contribution to a conversation (either questions, answers > or critical thought) then we're not speaking the same language. > The utterance of common words doesn't assure understanding. > Since it is impossible for folks to be aware the cause for your > frustration, it's incumbent upon you the frustrated to refine the > language . . . figure out another use of words that accurately > communicates your thoughts. Bailing out may assuage frustration > but it also breaks the path of sharing for simple-ideas. > > How may we help you sir? > > Bob . . .


    Message 17


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    Time: 05:03:26 PM PST US
    From: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: So long, and thanks for all the fish!
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com> In my experiences I usually find that all problems can be solved, however you will have to pick two of the following three items to solve the problem: good, fast, and/or cheap. Once people realize they can only get two of the three attitudes tend to change. For example you can not expect good, free advice to be fast. Regards, Trampas www.sterntech.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Alexander Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: So long, and thanks for all the fish! --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dale Alexander" <Dalexan48@dslextreme.com> Well John, I was going to send you a picture of a waveform for a knock sensor, but I'm not sure I like the swarmy-assed way you take Bob to task for something as valuable as his advice (which like the credit card...is priceless). I myself work too many hours a week and sometimes...I forget to get back to things. So since advice is free, I will tell you WHERE you can purchase the information. Go to your local Toyota dealer and order a late model service manual. Fair enough? Enjoy your fish. Dale Alexander Velocity 173 RG Stealth Gullwing. > > > Time: 06:59:19 AM PST US > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: So long, and thanks for all the fish! > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com> > > At 08:39 PM 8/19/2004 -0400, you wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net> > > > >Aero electric people. > >My plane is now flying. Thanks to Bob's book and ongoing input, all the > >electrical gizmos are working and not interfering with each other, and the > >smoke is staying in the boxes and wires. > > > >I've asked what I though was a simple electronics question three times and > >received no answer. Perhaps I've exhausted either the knowledge or the > >patience of this exalted group. > > John, I did a search on your name for messages in my > e-mail files and the only question I can find concerns > listening to the knock sensor. Is this the question you're > referring to? > > > >Either way, I've been on this list 5 years and it's time to move on. > > > >So long, and thanks for all the fish. > > I've been on this list since day-one. I participated on > the AVSig group on Compuserve for years before that. What's > longevity have to do with utility of present participation? > > I've noted over the years that if folks are not understanding > my contribution to a conversation (either questions, answers > or critical thought) then we're not speaking the same language. > The utterance of common words doesn't assure understanding. > Since it is impossible for folks to be aware the cause for your > frustration, it's incumbent upon you the frustrated to refine the > language . . . figure out another use of words that accurately > communicates your thoughts. Bailing out may assuage frustration > but it also breaks the path of sharing for simple-ideas. > > How may we help you sir? > > Bob . . .


    Message 18


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    Time: 05:29:08 PM PST US
    From: PeterHunt1@aol.com
    Subject: DC Power Master Switch
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com Bob/Others I am confused and need help. In Figure Z-13 (utilizing SD-8 alternator) the DC power master switch is a 2-10. In Figure Z-12 (utilizing SD-20 alternator) the DC power master switch is a 2-3. Why the difference? Is it that with the 2-10 switch the engine is to be started with this switch in the center position? Is it that with the 2-10 switch the regulator can be disconnected from the bus for some reason, perhaps testing? The reason I am asking is I initially planned to install the SD-8 alternator and wired my panel accordingly (Figure Z-13) with the 2-10 master power switch. I have since decided to install the SD-20 which takes me to Figure Z-12 which calls for a 2-3 master power switch. Is it important that I change out my 2-10 master power switch with a 2-3 switch? If not, what is the purpose for the center position on the 2-10 switch? A little help would be appreciated. Thanks. Pete Hunt Clearwater, FL RV-6, Wiring


    Message 19


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    Time: 05:47:37 PM PST US
    From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: Antenna Question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net> The short answer: If you want the best performance you must connect it to the end. The 40" was chosen with the frequency of the marker beacon in mind, so connecting the coax somewhere in the middle will not work well at all. On the other hand, the 1/2" wide aluminum will resonate at a lower frequency than a thin wire, so you could get away with a shorter length (connected at the end). I do not remember what the equations are for calculating this so maybe someone else can chime in here... Dick Charles E. Brame wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb@earthlink.net> > >I am installing a Marker Beacon antenna in my right wing tip using >shielded single conductor cable as the antenna lead. I considered >Electric Bob's suggestion of just exposing the last 40 inches of the >lead, but I was about 20 inches short of antenna cable. So I pro-sealed >a 1/2 inch wide, 40 inch strip of .016 aluminum to the bottom of the >fiberglass wing tip as the antenna. > >Question: Does the antenna lead have to connect to the end of the >aluminum strip or can it be connected anywhere along its length? (It >would be most convenient to connect the lead about 15 inches from one >end, if such an installation will work.) > >Charlie Brame >RV-6A N11CB >San Antonio > > > >


    Message 20


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    Time: 06:16:18 PM PST US
    From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
    Subject: Re: Starting Power
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com> Didn't happen in OSH, just happen to talk to the guy there. Brian Lloyd wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> > > > On Aug 21, 2004, at 3:41 PM, Gert wrote: > > >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com> >> >>Hi brian >> >>Thanks!! >> >>I was not knocking the system, I think it is rather slick, happen to >>talk to a yak driver at OSH who happen to mention he did not manage to >>get a start on a scuba tank, no strutpump out there then appearantly. > > > Odd. There is a really active group from the Redstar Pilot's > Association (RPA - an umbrella group supporting eastern-bloc aircraft) > that was there. He should have had no problem. OTOH, he may have had > other problems because those radials if properly primed usually start > on the first blade. > > >>I did hear about those stout russians handpropping them radials, wonder >>how much vodka it took.... > > > All of it. > > >>thanks for filling in some blanks. > > > You are welcome. They are great-flying airplanes once you get used to > the systems differences. The Yak-52 is probably the best deal on a > production airplane you can find these days. > > The Nanchang CJ6A has absolutely the best handling characteristics and > control harmony of any airplane I have ever flown. My RV-4 was great > but my CJ6A is better. No airplane I have ever flown has given me such > a "good hands" feeling in all flight regimes. We even found the > original designer and paid his way to Oshkosh a couple years back. It > was very interesting to hear about the fledgling aircraft industry in > the People's Republic of China under Chairman Mao back in the 1950's. > > BTW, one other thing different about these airplanes; they are designed > to a 100% overload factor. That means that, if the airframe is spec'd > to +6G/-3G (the CJ6A in this case), the airframe was tested to +12G/-6G > before failure. The Yak-52 is spec'd at +7G/-5G. They are pretty hard > to break. > > I provide transition training in the Nanchang CJ6A and am setting up to > do it in the Yak-52. If you have any questions about the systems in > these aircraft I can probably answer. > > Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza > brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 > +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802 > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500




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