Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:25 AM - Simplification (Gary Casey)
2. 06:56 AM - Fuse Holders and Bus diodes (Bryan Flood)
3. 07:22 AM - Male Fast-on Terminals (Mark Banus)
4. 07:26 AM - Re: Simplification (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:33 AM - Re: Re: incident with fuse holder (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:38 AM - Re: Starting Problem (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:47 AM - Re: Male Fast-on Terminals (Bruce Gray)
8. 08:42 AM - Re: Simplification (David Carter)
9. 08:50 AM - Re: Warning light on SD-8 installation (McFarland, Randy)
10. 08:56 AM - Re: strobe control box mount (Bobby Hester)
11. 11:25 AM - Locking female fast on source needed (Charlie Kuss)
12. 12:26 PM - Re: strobe control box mount (Dan Checkoway)
13. 12:29 PM - Re: Locking female fast on source needed (Tammy and Mike Salzman)
14. 12:37 PM - Re: Locking female fast on source needed (John D. Heath)
15. 01:24 PM - Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension leads (David Carter)
16. 02:02 PM - Re: Locking female fast on source needed (Charlie Kuss)
17. 02:02 PM - Re: Fuse Holders and Bus diodes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 02:56 PM - Re: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension leads (Matt Prather)
19. 02:57 PM - Re: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension leads (Trampas)
20. 03:30 PM - Re: Locking female fast on source needed (David Carter)
21. 04:42 PM - Simplified Z-13 elec sys- eliminate starter contactor & PM Alternator switch (David Carter)
22. 04:58 PM - Re: OV protection for PM alternators (David Carter)
23. 05:16 PM - Re: Locking female fast on source needed (Charlie Kuss)
24. 06:05 PM - Re: Locking female fast on source needed (David Carter)
25. 07:18 PM - 220 Ohm Resistors? (Malcolm Thomson)
26. 07:34 PM - Re: Locking female fast on source needed.....(Long) (John D. Heath)
27. 07:53 PM - Re: Wire terminals (royt.or@netzero.com)
28. 08:32 PM - Quickie Electronics (jcrain2@juno.com)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
I would like to get opinions on 3 ideas I have gleaned from this list and
other sources, all aimed at reducing complexity and increasing reliability:
1. Manual master switch - The battery will be firewall-mounted and the idea
is to use a manual battery switch mounted ahead of the firewall and actuated
via a "torque" tube and a lever under the instrument panel. It eliminates
the potential failure mode of the master relay and should reduce weight a
tiny bit. And it eliminates several wires and connections.
2. "contactor-less" starter. By using one of the lightweight
solenoid-engaged starters I can energize the solenoid with a simple
momentary-contact switch rated at the appropriate current (I figure a 50-amp
rating is adequate). It reduces the number of wires and connections,
eliminates one of the contactors and should improve reliability while
reducing weight. The system is identical in concept to all automotive
starts, but a redundant way to shut off the starter is still there with the
master switch.
3. Eliminate the alternator switch entirely. The alternator will be
powered directly from the main bus through a pullable circuit breaker. The
breaker can be used to shut off the alternator if the need arises, but
normally the alternator will be powered all the time the master is on. I
see no need for a switch - in 25 years of flying the only time I've turned
the alternator off is when on the ground using the battery to power things
for diagnostic purposes.
I think by incorporating all three of these ideas a considerable reduction
in wiring complexity can be realized and I see no downside. Any opinions
out there?
Gary Casey
Lancair ES
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuse Holders and Bus diodes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com>
Just a quick clarification question...
I have the B&C fuse holders in my RV connected by the recomeded diode. The
diode is bolted to an aluminum bulkhead. B&C states to not use more that 15
amps per fuse slot. Will I be okay running say 30 to 40 amps total? through
one fuse block whith no single fuse larger than 15 amps? And second what is
the rating for the diode that connects the busses when it is bolted to a
large aluminum heat sink and should it be attached with any speical adhesive
to promote heat transfer and increase it's current rating. AND FINALLY...
would it help the current rating to hook up two legs of the diode to use two
diodes instead of one?
Thanks,
Bryan
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Male Fast-on Terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Banus" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
I'm looking for Male fast-on terminals that can be attached with solder or crimps.
Anyone know where to get them. I've done a search, but no luck.
Mark Banus
Glasair SIIFT
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Simplification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 05:18 AM 8/24/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
>I would like to get opinions on 3 ideas I have gleaned from this list and
>other sources, all aimed at reducing complexity and increasing reliability:
>
>1. Manual master switch - The battery will be firewall-mounted and the idea
>is to use a manual battery switch mounted ahead of the firewall and actuated
>via a "torque" tube and a lever under the instrument panel. It eliminates
>the potential failure mode of the master relay and should reduce weight a
>tiny bit. And it eliminates several wires and connections.
How many parts are anticipated for the mechanical linkage to
the battery switch. Are these more (less) likely to fail
than a contactor? Do you plan to have an alternate power path
to and endurance bus? How would failure of a battery contactor
affect the outcome of any particular mode of flight?
>2. "contactor-less" starter. By using one of the lightweight
>solenoid-engaged starters I can energize the solenoid with a simple
>momentary-contact switch rated at the appropriate current (I figure a 50-amp
>rating is adequate). It reduces the number of wires and connections,
>eliminates one of the contactors and should improve reliability while
>reducing weight. The system is identical in concept to all automotive
>starts, but a redundant way to shut off the starter is still there with the
>master switch.
Lots of builders have gone this route. There are no down-sides
that I can deduce.
>3. Eliminate the alternator switch entirely. The alternator will be
>powered directly from the main bus through a pullable circuit breaker. The
>breaker can be used to shut off the alternator if the need arises, but
>normally the alternator will be powered all the time the master is on. I
>see no need for a switch - in 25 years of flying the only time I've turned
>the alternator off is when on the ground using the battery to power things
>for diagnostic purposes.
>
>I think by incorporating all three of these ideas a considerable reduction
>in wiring complexity can be realized and I see no downside. Any opinions
>out there?
The starter circuit is fine.
You've eliminated one switch, one contactor and a couple of pieces of
wire for a weight savings of less than 1 pound that is offset by the
weight and labor to fabricate an operating extension to a battery switch.
Looks like weight will be a wash. I'm having trouble deducing any
advantages . . . but what you describe will probably function okay.
Another thing to consider is what the guy you sell the airplane to
is going to think about it. You are, after all, building a LANCAIR.
Bob . . .
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: incident with fuse holder |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 09:03 AM 8/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
><jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
>Gentlemen:
> My RV-6 has two fuse blocks, the big one and the smaller one for the
>e-bus, as per the Connection manual, and the big fuse block has developed
>exactly the symptoms you mention.
> Although the smaller fuse block works well, and one side of the larger one
>still works fine, every fuse on the other side is loose, and the Fast-On
>tabs are also loose. Pushing in on the fuse stops the tab from moving
>around, but the fuse block seems to have lost its ability to grip any of the
>fuses on the one side, in that wiggling the tab causes the appropriate fuse
>to lift up slightly and lose contact.
> Hadn't got around to seeing how it's made or what I could do to repair it
>yet.
>Scott in VAncouveRV-6,
>150 hours
When no fuse is installed, the output tab of the fuseblock should "float"
slightly. If you take one of these things apart, you'll see how the output
tab is not held tightly. By the same token, there should be a short
service-loop in the wire as it exits the fuseblock and ties into
any wire bundles. This feature allows the output connection tab to
align with the fuse as it's inserted.
Your fuseblock may not be in need of "repair". If you believe it's
defective, then return it to the folks you bought it from for
replacement. But be aware that all output tabs on all of these
devices will "rattle around" a bit when there is no fuse installed
and/or no output wire connected.
Bob . . .
---
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Starting Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 11:24 AM 8/23/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
>8/23/2004
>
>Extract from a previous posting by Bob Nuckolls
>
><<Excellent example of this phenomenon. Another example is the pinion
>gear retraction delay experienced by folks who try to wire PM motor
>starters from Skytec exactly like the wound field motor starters from B&C.
>Voltage generated by the motor during spin-down keeps the pinion gear
>engaged for several seconds after the starter button is released.>>
>
>Hello Bob, Thanks for your response on this subject. My question is Do
>only PM motors have this back EMF characteristic during spin-down or is
>the characteristic also found in wound field motors?
A motor or generator has two basic requirements for functionality:
(1) a magnetic field through which (2) wires can move to convert
magnetic to motion or motion to electron flow. The PM motor has a
fixed field that does not depend on externally applied power. The
would field motor loses it's magnetic field when power is removed.
>If this back EMF characteristic also exists in wound field motors (my
>starter is from B&C) then I will rewire my starting vibrator to provide
>its source of electricity from the 12 volt input to the starter contactor
>coil.
There is a counter-emf generated while the motor is energized
and moving and a very small one while it's spinning down but it's
a tiny fraction of the voltage generated by a PM motor.
I would rewire the starting vibrator to the contactor coil
anyhow.
Bob . . .
---
Message 7
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| Subject: | Male Fast-on Terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Try http://www.steinair.com/, nice guy.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Banus
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Male Fast-on Terminals
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Banus"
<mbanus@hotmail.com>
I'm looking for Male fast-on terminals that can be attached with solder
or crimps. Anyone know where to get them. I've done a search, but no
luck.
Mark Banus
Glasair SIIFT
==
==
==
==
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Simplification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I like your suggestions.
1. I am already collecting e-mails and websites about manual master
switches. I definitely plan to use one. Made that decision several years
ago.
2. Starter: I assume you are proposing not to have "main starter cranking
current" go through a high current capacity "starter relay" - rather, have
the starter motor hard wired to the battery and only have the pilot actuate
a lower current switch to energize the relay coil of the relay on the
starter that engages the Bendix and also closes the "high current" circuit
to the motor from the "hard wired" wire. Do I have that wiring and
terminology correct? Then, if the starter ever fails and continues to crank
when the starter switch is released, then the Manual Battery Master can be
used to kill power to the starter motor.
3. In my very first attempt to tailor Z-13 to eliminate the standard field
controlled alternator and make the "2nd alternator" a PM alternator that
will be my only/main alternator, I eliminated the alternator switch and
wired it so that when the alternator started turning during start and
subsequent, as it put out voltage, that voltage was hard-wired to energize
the Crowbar Over Voltage relay, to close it and pass alternator output to
the DC Master Solenoid (if I remember correctly).
- Responses to my request for peer review conviced me that I needed an
alternator switch. I believe it was similar to this response to another
fellow who wanted "no alternator switch": Bob asked, "Suppose you have
smoke in the cockpit and you want to shut down the whole system? How do you
do this if the alternator doesn't get controlled by way of the DC PWR MSTR
switch? You can turn the battery off, the alternator continues to run
self-excited, and smoke continues to roll. The DC PWR MSTR switch isn't a
MASTER switch unless you wire it up such that it truly has ultimate control
over all power sources in the airplane." (unquote)
- Well, like you said, you have your "alternator CB" and I would have
my Overvoltage Module's CB (that is supposed to pop if get overvoltage) -
you and I can use our respective CBs as a "switch" to turn off the
alternator output into the wires of the aircraft.
- Bob is correct that we would no longer have a "single switch" control
(master switch) to kill DC power when get smoke in cockpit from electrical
overheating. We'd have to use two actions: Turn off battery switch and
pull an appropriate alternator CB. I think I just talked myself back into
going "switchless" for the alternator.
- There is the further issue of "self-excited alternators" (PM in my
case): The alternator puts out power as long as the engine is turning,
unlike a "std" alternator that ceases to put out current if you kill the
low-current "field" circuit. (Hope "field" is the correct term.)
____- This almost becomes an issue of "PM vs std alternator" - PMs (& the
self-exciting alternators Bob mentions on some Bonanzas) will be putting out
voltage and current into any circuit it is connected to, regardless of your
"master switch or not" architecture - the alternator is putting out stuff.
So, use of PM/self-exciterd alternators requires a "design convention or
caveat" that the relay that "interrupts the flow out of the PM alternator"
(note, again, we don't "kill the output" - we can only interrupt it or stop
it from going very far) must be as close as possible to the alternator,
exactly like fat, unprotected wires from the alternator to the battery and
from the battery to anything else, need to be as short as possible so there
is not a "long" unprotected hot lead. Given compliance with that, and
being willing to actuate two things instead of one to kill DC power into the
aircraft's electrical ciruits, a "switchless" alterntor ought to be OK.
- For myself, that "kill the alternator CB" (regardless of its title or
the name on the label) will be positioned right next to the "battery switch"
(whether "electrical-to-battery contactor" or "manual battery master
switch"). That will give me the intuitive "view" of how to control my
electrical system during normal as well as emergency conditions.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Simplification
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> I would like to get opinions on 3 ideas I have gleaned from this list and
> other sources, all aimed at reducing complexity and increasing
reliability:
>
> 1. Manual master switch - The battery will be firewall-mounted and the
idea
> is to use a manual battery switch mounted ahead of the firewall and
actuated
> via a "torque" tube and a lever under the instrument panel. It eliminates
> the potential failure mode of the master relay and should reduce weight a
> tiny bit. And it eliminates several wires and connections.
>
> 2. "contactor-less" starter. By using one of the lightweight
> solenoid-engaged starters I can energize the solenoid with a simple
> momentary-contact switch rated at the appropriate current (I figure a
50-amp
> rating is adequate). It reduces the number of wires and connections,
> eliminates one of the contactors and should improve reliability while
> reducing weight. The system is identical in concept to all automotive
> starts, but a redundant way to shut off the starter is still there with
the
> master switch.
>
> 3. Eliminate the alternator switch entirely. The alternator will be
> powered directly from the main bus through a pullable circuit breaker.
The
> breaker can be used to shut off the alternator if the need arises, but
> normally the alternator will be powered all the time the master is on. I
> see no need for a switch - in 25 years of flying the only time I've turned
> the alternator off is when on the ground using the battery to power things
> for diagnostic purposes.
>
> I think by incorporating all three of these ideas a considerable reduction
> in wiring complexity can be realized and I see no downside. Any opinions
> out there?
>
> Gary Casey
> Lancair ES
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Warning light on SD-8 installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Could we not feed the 504-1 module with power from both the Main and
Essential busses? When the Main Alternator failed the light would come on
because the E Buss switch would be open so power would be lost to both
busses momentarily, and then go off when the E Buss switch is closed
providing 12v again to the 504 module?
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Warning light on SD-8 installation
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Hi Bob, I'm buying parts for elec on a budget system. I'v ordered the
> B&C SD-8 with the 504-1 OV module. My question is: if I use a switch for
> the AUX alt and have it off - will the yellow light with the 504-1 be on
> all the time? If I understand the electrical schematic, I would only
> switch the Aux alt on when I had a failure of the primary alt. How do I
> handle this situation? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Thanks. P.S. I have your book and practically sleep with it. My wife
> will be glad when I'm finished with the electrical system. Terry Dilley.
Your analysis is correct. The "ALT OFF" light would be
illuminated any time the aux alternator was off . . .
whether due to OV trip -OR- switch in the OFF position.
The light is suggested only for situations where the
SD-8 is the primary alternator like Figure Z-16. Note
that I do not show this light on Figure Z-13 where
the SD-8 is a stand-by alternator and the airplane
is likely to be fitted with voltmeters and/or low-voltage
warning lights.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: strobe control box mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Margaret and Truman Sager <sag6267@otherside.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:55 (CDT)
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: strobe control box mount
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Margaret and Truman Sager
> <sag6267@otherside.com>
>
> Any ideas out there on the mounting design for the strobe control box in
> a RV-7? I cannot find any info in archive.
>
> Truman Sager
> wiring wings on QB
>
You can see how I did it here:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FuseAssyPg4.htm
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 11
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| Subject: | Locking female fast on source needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Listers,
I recently purchased several Bosch (automotive style) relays and the
related sockets for my RV-8A flap circuit. I purchased these items from
Waytek Wire. Nice folks with brand name stuff at good prices. The sockets
for these relays use a variant of the common 1/4" female fast ons. These
are open barrel, rather than PIDG items. They also have a locking tang, to
secure the connector into the socket body. Anyone familiar with automotive
connectors has seen these.
My question is, I need to find a part number and source for these
connectors designed for 22/18 AWG wire. Waytek has these connectors
for 16/14 AWG, but not for the 22/18 AWG. I know that these things are
actually quite common. I've tried finding them in Allied Electronics paper
catalog and their web site. However, I don't know the manufacturer or the
proper terminology these items are known by. Because of this, I have not
been able to locate what I need. Can anyone help?
The relay sockets and connectors can be seen here:
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_54
I'm using the #75280 style sockets. These are modular. You can stack them
together. The connectors are part # 31073, also seen on the above web page.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit wiring & systems
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: strobe control box mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FWIW...
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2003/20030611_strobe_power_supply.jpg
I installed it right behind F-706, bolted to two "Z brackets" that rivet to
the belly skin.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Margaret and Truman Sager" <sag6267@otherside.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: strobe control box mount
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Margaret and Truman Sager
<sag6267@otherside.com>
>
> Any ideas out there on the mounting design for the strobe control box
in
> a RV-7? I cannot find any info in archive.
>
> Truman Sager
> wiring wings on QB
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Locking female fast on source needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tammy and Mike Salzman <arrow54t@yahoo.com>
Charlie,
I am also using the waytek wire supplied relays and sockets. I ended
up using the connectors on as small as 22 AWG wire. I used the manual
crimp tool. I soldered the wire after crimping. If you don't want to
solder, then just strip your wire a little longer then double it over
in the connector before crimping. This will make the connector "think"
it has a larger diameter wire inside.
Mike Salzman
Fairfield, CA
LNCE
--- Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
> My question is, I need to find a part number and source for these
> connectors designed for 22/18 AWG wire. Waytek has these connectors
> for 16/14 AWG, but not for the 22/18 AWG.
...
> I'm using the #75280 style sockets. These are modular. You can stack
> them
> together. The connectors are part # 31073, also seen on the above web
> page.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A cockpit wiring & systems
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Locking female fast on source needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <alto_q@direcway.com>
Most European auto dealerships have these in a electrical repair kit, which
was part of their dealership requirement.
If you're not locked in to those particular relays, you might want to find
a dealer and see what they have to offer.
I plan to use GM or Chrysler standard. They are smaller, light, available
at a fair price, and meet what ever electrical requirements you can dream
up. Available, as in stock at auto dealers across the country. That
includes Sockets and Fast-On connectors.
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> chaztuna@adelphia.net
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension |
leads
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Bob or anyone, any comments on "how to join/extend" theromcouple wires so
they run to a computer input? The first response was "silver solder". Then
the e-mail below came next, suggesting crimping and using a connector for
maintenance disconnect purposes.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Gietzen" <ALVentures@cox.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension leads
Subject: [FlyRotary] Joining thermocouple extension leads
Whats the best way to join thermocouple wire to the extension wire?
John
Crimp! If you want to have a disconnect, and it is in the engine
compartment (or somewhere where the temp is somewhat different than at the
data module) use the appropriate connector plug from Omega.
And maybe others can back me up on getting Tracy to go to a crimp pin D-sub
at the EM2 25-pin plug rather than the solder-socket. I found soldering TC
wire to the pins is a real challenge (even needed some additional flux, and
now I worry about corrosion); and soldering those materials doesn't really
form a bond anyway (no eutectic as with copper or silver), just a mechanical
bond.
Al
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Locking female fast on source needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
John
Availability was one of the reasons I chose these relays. They are the
Bosch units used on all GM, BMW, Volvo, Mercedes Benz and VW autos.
Murphy's law says that stuff breaks a thousand miles from home. I'd hate to
have to stay over night because I couldn't lay hands on a part on a weekend
afternoon. These connectors are used by GM. You can find the relays here
for under $4 each.
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_52
The auto dealers here (in the USA), don't sell individual electrical
terminals. They sell either complete wiring harness sections or "repair
plugs". I've been in that business for over 20 years. Been there, done that.
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <alto_q@direcway.com>
>
>Most European auto dealerships have these in a electrical repair kit, which
>was part of their dealership requirement.
> If you're not locked in to those particular relays, you might want to find
>a dealer and see what they have to offer.
> I plan to use GM or Chrysler standard. They are smaller, light, available
>at a fair price, and meet what ever electrical requirements you can dream
>up. Available, as in stock at auto dealers across the country. That
>includes Sockets and Fast-On connectors.
>
> John D.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>To: "AeroElectric List" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> > chaztuna@adelphia.net
>
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Holders and Bus diodes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 08:55 AM 8/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood"
><bryanflood@hotmail.com>
>
>Just a quick clarification question...
>
>I have the B&C fuse holders in my RV connected by the recomeded diode. The
>diode is bolted to an aluminum bulkhead. B&C states to not use more that 15
>amps per fuse slot.
The fuse holders are RATED by the manufacturer for up to
30A continuous. I de-rate them for my designs down to 15A
continuous. Do you have any accessories that draw more than
10A continuous?
> Will I be okay running say 30 to 40 amps total? through
>one fuse block whith no single fuse larger than 15 amps?
Total rating for the 20 slot fuse holder is over 100 amps.
The largest full-up running load I've calculated for an
IFR ship running pitot heat is 27A . . . These fuseholders
are quite adequate to the task.
> And second what is
>the rating for the diode that connects the busses when it is bolted to a
>large aluminum heat sink and should it be attached with any speical adhesive
>to promote heat transfer and increase it's current rating.
Any diode rectifier in this package is good for 25A minimum. The
E-bus loads in Figure Z-11 should be under 5A or so . . . if
you have a standby alternator like Z-13, then you can run an
e-bus of 10A continuous. These rectifiers will handle 10A
nicely when bolted to an aluminum surface.
> AND FINALLY...
>would it help the current rating to hook up two legs of the diode to use two
>diodes instead of one?
Not really . . . there are some tiny advantages including a slightly
lower voltage drop . . . but the ratings for any single diode
should be most adequate.
Bob . . .
---
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension |
leads
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
The very niftiest method for joing thermocouples is to weld them....
However,
the welders I have seen are all very expensive when doing only a few
connections.
That said, if you need to make a splice in a location where it would be most
convenient to have a service disconnect, then by all means, a dedicated
Omega connector is a good (if bulky option). Even a dsub connector will
join thermocouples adequately. The downside is that these introduce more
failure modes, not to mention expense.
Silver solder is a good option. It is light weight, not particularly
difficult to
accomplish, and is relatively robust.
Regards,
Matt-
VE N34RD, C150 N714BK
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Bob or anyone, any comments on "how to join/extend" theromcouple wires
> so they run to a computer input? The first response was "silver
> solder". Then the e-mail below came next, suggesting crimping and using
> a connector for maintenance disconnect purposes.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Al Gietzen" <ALVentures@cox.net>
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension leads
>
>
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Joining thermocouple extension leads
>
>
> Whats the best way to join thermocouple wire to the extension wire?
>
> John
>
>
> Crimp! If you want to have a disconnect, and it is in the engine
> compartment (or somewhere where the temp is somewhat different than at
> the data module) use the appropriate connector plug from Omega.
>
>
> And maybe others can back me up on getting Tracy to go to a crimp pin
> D-sub at the EM2 25-pin plug rather than the solder-socket. I found
> soldering TC wire to the pins is a real challenge (even needed some
> additional flux, and now I worry about corrosion); and soldering those
> materials doesn't really form a bond anyway (no eutectic as with copper
> or silver), just a mechanical bond.
>
>
> Al
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension |
leads
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Personally I recommend using crimp connections, much easier than getting the
thermocouple wires to take the silver solder.
Regards,
Trampas
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Carter
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple
extension leads
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
Bob or anyone, any comments on "how to join/extend" theromcouple wires so
they run to a computer input? The first response was "silver solder". Then
the e-mail below came next, suggesting crimping and using a connector for
maintenance disconnect purposes.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Gietzen" <ALVentures@cox.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Joining thermocouple extension leads
Subject: [FlyRotary] Joining thermocouple extension leads
Whats the best way to join thermocouple wire to the extension wire?
John
Crimp! If you want to have a disconnect, and it is in the engine
compartment (or somewhere where the temp is somewhat different than at the
data module) use the appropriate connector plug from Omega.
And maybe others can back me up on getting Tracy to go to a crimp pin D-sub
at the EM2 25-pin plug rather than the solder-socket. I found soldering TC
wire to the pins is a real challenge (even needed some additional flux, and
now I worry about corrosion); and soldering those materials doesn't really
form a bond anyway (no eutectic as with copper or silver), just a mechanical
bond.
Al
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Locking female fast on source needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Female Fastons would be simple. However, in viewing pg. 52 at the link you
gave below, there was a note in the the bottom right hand corner saying
"High capacity and standard relays use connectors 75280, 75281 and 75282 on
page 54." By simply going to the url address line at top of browser and
backing over the last digit (the 2 in page "52") and replacing 2 with 4, it
brought up page 54, which has connector shells - and (drum roll) . . .
female Fastons, if I understand the term correctly. Gives part numbers for
all the stuff.
- Says they are "bright tin plated" which is good - better corrosion
resistance.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
<chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> John
> Availability was one of the reasons I chose these relays. They are the
> Bosch units used on all GM, BMW, Volvo, Mercedes Benz and VW autos.
> Murphy's law says that stuff breaks a thousand miles from home. I'd hate
to
> have to stay over night because I couldn't lay hands on a part on a
weekend
> afternoon. These connectors are used by GM. You can find the relays here
> for under $4 each.
>
> http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_52
>
> The auto dealers here (in the USA), don't sell individual electrical
> terminals. They sell either complete wiring harness sections or "repair
> plugs". I've been in that business for over 20 years. Been there, done
that.
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath"
<alto_q@direcway.com>
> >
> >Most European auto dealerships have these in a electrical repair kit,
which
> >was part of their dealership requirement.
> > If you're not locked in to those particular relays, you might want to
find
> >a dealer and see what they have to offer.
> > I plan to use GM or Chrysler standard. They are smaller, light,
available
> >at a fair price, and meet what ever electrical requirements you can dream
> >up. Available, as in stock at auto dealers across the country. That
> >includes Sockets and Fast-On connectors.
> >
> > John
D.
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >To: "AeroElectric List" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> >
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> > > chaztuna@adelphia.net
> >
> >
> >DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Simplified Z-13 elec sys- eliminate starter contactor |
& PM Alternator switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Gary,
I'm looking at Z-13 as I compose this e-mail.
Alternator Switch issue:
My plan is to eliminate the "field controlled alternator shown to right of
Z-13 and only use a John Deere PM alternator in place of the SD-8 "dynamo"
shown in upper rt corner of Z-13. Now, the OVM (overvoltage module)'s relay
coil is part of an "always hot" battery bus. So, if I eliminate the (aux)
Alternator Off-On switch and just run the wire below the 5amp CB to gnd,
then the relay coils will run down my battery overnight. But, that can be
fixed by re-wiring that coil so it is NOT "always hot" but only gets power
from the PM alternator when it starts turning. (disconnect short wire from
bottom of contactor of OVM relay and re-connect to, e.g., the top of the
filter capacitor - main red output wire from PM alternator's Voltage
Regulator. And connect bottom of "(aux) alt cb") direct to gnd - & elim the
alt sw.) I think that is what you and I really want to do - no switch, no
voltage & current to close the OVM relay until PM alternator is putting out,
and use the OVM's "kill the OVM relay" cb as a switch if needed in an
emergency to stop electrical smoke.
Starter issue:
Again, I'm looking at Z-13 as I write this. There's a 2awg "fat wire" going
from "battery contactor" (a manual switch on your plane & mine) to "starter
contactor". Coils of the "starter contactor" are powered from the "push to
start sw", closing the main/big current contact and current flows to post on
solenoid on starter and a parallet tap goes to actuate the solenoid coil,
which closes and passes main current to the motor.
- I understand you want to eliminate the "starter contactor" and run
the 2awg "fat wire" direct to the "main juice post" on the solenoid, and
eliminate the parallel tap-off from that "same-post-to-the-solenoid-coils" -
rather, run the 20awg wire from push-to-start sw to the "solenoid's coil"
instead of the "starter contactor" which we just eliminated.
- Then if the starter "runs on", we turn off the manual battery switch
to kill power to the motor.
- Now, here are my questions about starters:
____- Is there a particular "name" for the type of starter shown in Z-13?
____- Is there a particular "name" for the type of starter that you would
use instead?
____- Or do we just wire any old starter differently so the solenoid coil's
juice comes from "push to start" and the "main juice" comes straight from
the battery master? (always hot, always protected with a fusible link or
some such)
____- I have lots of e-mails about Sky Tec starters, of which there are two
major different types (PM and not??) Then there are various auto starters
mentioned. So, are there any specific brands and models that you know will
work like you & I want it to?
David
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: OV protection for PM alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Ken,
To do what you suggest, looks feasible to "transplant" the OVM relay,
module, and CB system from its current position in Z-13 to be between one
of the two wires showing between the SD-8 (John Deere in your case and mine)
and the VR. Seems like a fairly simple mod. Or, at least a fusible link
ought to be in that output line between PM Alt & VR so the "always spinning,
always outputting" PM alternator would have no place to "output" to.
A question: Why does it show two wires between the SD-8 and its VR? Will
the John Deere also have two wires, or just one? I think you and I have
Deere schematics but I can't lay my hand on mine (office is packed up for
painting walls).
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: OV protection for PM alternators on juliet
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
> All the Z diagrams show the overvoltage disconnect relay wired to the
> output of the voltage regulator on permanent magnet alternators. Given
> that the most likely cause of an over voltage is probably a regulator
> failure, wouldn't it make more sense to disconnect the input to the VR
> just in case the VR decided to overheat and make smoke? This would
> require a two pole relay to disconnect the AC input but that should not
> be a major problem since I was going to use a "40" amp rated automotive
> relay with my 20 amp John Deere VR and alternator. I'm assuming that the
> fusible link (actually a circuit breaker on my machine) would disconnect
> the VR from battery current in case the VR shorted - but that might be a
> bad assumption???
> Ken
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Locking female fast on source needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
David
Read the description of those terminals carefully. The 1/4" females
(#31073) are for 16/14 AWG wire. The ones for 22/18 AWG (# 30073) are only
3/16" wide. They won't fit on the 1/4" terminals of my relays. The 3/16"
terminals are used on the newer "micro" relays. GM and other manufacturers
are switching over to these smaller relays. My experience is that the
failure rate due to overheating of the smaller contact surfaces is much
higher, than for the older relays with 1/4" terminals. I want to stick with
the "tried and true".
These 1/4" female push on connectors are as common as dirt in the
automotive world. I just need to find a part number or a source.
Charlie
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
><dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>Female Fastons would be simple. However, in viewing pg. 52 at the link you
>gave below, there was a note in the the bottom right hand corner saying
>"High capacity and standard relays use connectors 75280, 75281 and 75282 on
>page 54." By simply going to the url address line at top of browser and
>backing over the last digit (the 2 in page "52") and replacing 2 with 4, it
>brought up page 54, which has connector shells - and (drum roll) . . .
>female Fastons, if I understand the term correctly. Gives part numbers for
>all the stuff.
> - Says they are "bright tin plated" which is good - better corrosion
>resistance.
>
>David
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
><chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >
> > John
> > Availability was one of the reasons I chose these relays. They are the
> > Bosch units used on all GM, BMW, Volvo, Mercedes Benz and VW autos.
> > Murphy's law says that stuff breaks a thousand miles from home. I'd hate
>to
> > have to stay over night because I couldn't lay hands on a part on a
>weekend
> > afternoon. These connectors are used by GM. You can find the relays here
> > for under $4 each.
> >
> > http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_52
> >
> > The auto dealers here (in the USA), don't sell individual electrical
> > terminals. They sell either complete wiring harness sections or "repair
> > plugs". I've been in that business for over 20 years. Been there, done
>that.
> >
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath"
><alto_q@direcway.com>
> > >
> > >Most European auto dealerships have these in a electrical repair kit,
>which
> > >was part of their dealership requirement.
> > > If you're not locked in to those particular relays, you might want to
>find
> > >a dealer and see what they have to offer.
> > > I plan to use GM or Chrysler standard. They are smaller, light,
>available
> > >at a fair price, and meet what ever electrical requirements you can dream
> > >up. Available, as in stock at auto dealers across the country. That
> > >includes Sockets and Fast-On connectors.
> > >
> > > John
>D.
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> > >To: "AeroElectric List" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> > > > chaztuna@adelphia.net
> > >
> > >
> > >DO NOT ARCHIVE
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Locking female fast on source needed |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Dang, Charlie. "Devil's in the details", ain't it?
Well, just do like 'lectric Bob and others say - double the 22awg wire over
and crimp away. If doubling doesn't make the wire fat enough, then cut off
a piece of 16 or 18 or 20 awg wire (biggest possible and still fit in with
your 22 awg) and use it as a "shim" to take up the space. If you are short
on the larger wire and have tons of 22awg like me, then cut off as many
pieces as needed to fill the barrel of the faston and crimp away. Heat
shrink should help stabilize the skinny wire coming out of that big faston
barrel - maybe a 1/4" length of "little dia" heat shrink" over the 22 awg,
then longer length of larger dia heat shrink over the barrel and the 22awg
with its 1/4 inch of heat shrink - to stabilize it.
I have a piece of copper braid I cut out of an old battery strap - trimmed
the piece of braid so it is as tall as my battery terminal and is about 1/3
the circumference of my car's battery post. Now, when I put the negative
cable's terminal end over all that, it can be tightened up nicely - post
was too small without the "shim". Same principle for the fast ons.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
<chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> David
> Read the description of those terminals carefully. The 1/4" females
> (#31073) are for 16/14 AWG wire. The ones for 22/18 AWG (# 30073) are only
> 3/16" wide. They won't fit on the 1/4" terminals of my relays. The 3/16"
> terminals are used on the newer "micro" relays. GM and other manufacturers
> are switching over to these smaller relays. My experience is that the
> failure rate due to overheating of the smaller contact surfaces is much
> higher, than for the older relays with 1/4" terminals. I want to stick
with
> the "tried and true".
> These 1/4" female push on connectors are as common as dirt in the
> automotive world. I just need to find a part number or a source.
> Charlie
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> ><dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> >Female Fastons would be simple. However, in viewing pg. 52 at the link
you
> >gave below, there was a note in the the bottom right hand corner saying
> >"High capacity and standard relays use connectors 75280, 75281 and 75282
on
> >page 54." By simply going to the url address line at top of browser and
> >backing over the last digit (the 2 in page "52") and replacing 2 with 4,
it
> >brought up page 54, which has connector shells - and (drum roll) . . .
> >female Fastons, if I understand the term correctly. Gives part numbers
for
> >all the stuff.
> > - Says they are "bright tin plated" which is good - better
corrosion
> >resistance.
> >
> >David
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> >
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> ><chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> > >
> > > John
> > > Availability was one of the reasons I chose these relays. They are
the
> > > Bosch units used on all GM, BMW, Volvo, Mercedes Benz and VW autos.
> > > Murphy's law says that stuff breaks a thousand miles from home. I'd
hate
> >to
> > > have to stay over night because I couldn't lay hands on a part on a
> >weekend
> > > afternoon. These connectors are used by GM. You can find the relays
here
> > > for under $4 each.
> > >
> > > http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_52
> > >
> > > The auto dealers here (in the USA), don't sell individual electrical
> > > terminals. They sell either complete wiring harness sections or
"repair
> > > plugs". I've been in that business for over 20 years. Been there, done
> >that.
> > >
> > > Charlie Kuss
> > >
> > >
> > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath"
> ><alto_q@direcway.com>
> > > >
> > > >Most European auto dealerships have these in a electrical repair kit,
> >which
> > > >was part of their dealership requirement.
> > > > If you're not locked in to those particular relays, you might want
to
> >find
> > > >a dealer and see what they have to offer.
> > > > I plan to use GM or Chrysler standard. They are smaller, light,
> >available
> > > >at a fair price, and meet what ever electrical requirements you can
dream
> > > >up. Available, as in stock at auto dealers across the country. That
> > > >includes Sockets and Fast-On connectors.
> > > >
> > > >
John
> >D.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> > > >To: "AeroElectric List" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > > >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> > > > > chaztuna@adelphia.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >DO NOT ARCHIVE
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | 220 Ohm Resistors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Malcolm Thomson" <mdthomson@attglobal.net>
I believe I have seen that two 220 ohm resistors can be used in
conjunction with an LED to act as a OV light on the B&C LR3s. Can
someone help me with how 220 ohm was determined and why two of them?
Normally, I use a 600 ohm resistor in series with an LED to operate at
13.8V. (drop 12V at 20ma). What am I missing here?
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Locking female fast on source needed.....(Long) |
abbreviated resume
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <alto_q@direcway.com>
abbreviated resume
Some of the GM relays are also Made by OMRON in Canada. In my 20 years in
that same business I found that all the parts are not in the parts room.
Somewhere (where ever they keep the Special Tools) in each of the
dealerships you have named., is a suit case sized kit filled with, Fast-Ons
of various sizes, sockets, pin pushers, and various crimping pliers. Don't
Go to parts, find the Service Manager and get a Mechanic. Most
Mercedes Benz and BMW electrical are made by Siemens. I tried to point you
to another source but completely left out the word ... Chrysler.
abbreviated resume
You know I STOPPED dead in my tracks in the middle of this reply. Thinking
how many have the hair on the back of their necks standing on end ready to
flame every word I say. I don't offer my view point to anyone unless I'm
standing on pretty firm facts. I've been around airplanes all my life, spent
26 years in the military flying and fixing them. After that I spent 20 years
making a living fixing cars. Porsche, VW, Audi, MB, BMW, Volvo, Saab,
Ferrari, Masseratti and my favorite Chevrolet are some of the makes I worked
on.
What information I offer is given so that someone might, with more ease or
economy, realize our mutual dream of flight. I have already researched this
air plane to some considerable extents. When I see on the list someone
covering the same ground that I already have, I want to lend a helping hand.
I just had to add that in. I feel better.
John
D. Heath
CW4
USA Retired
Building the shop to build the airplane in
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> John
> Availability was one of the reasons I chose these relays. They are the
> Bosch units used on all GM, BMW, Volvo, Mercedes Benz and VW autos.
> Murphy's law says that stuff breaks a thousand miles from home. I'd hate
> to
> have to stay over night because I couldn't lay hands on a part on a
> weekend
> afternoon. These connectors are used by GM. You can find the relays here
> for under $4 each.
>
> http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_52
>
> The auto dealers here (in the USA), don't sell individual electrical
> terminals. They sell either complete wiring harness sections or "repair
> plugs". I've been in that business for over 20 years. Been there, done
> that.
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath"
>><alto_q@direcway.com>
>>
>>Most European auto dealerships have these in a electrical repair kit,
>>which
>>was part of their dealership requirement.
>> If you're not locked in to those particular relays, you might want to
>> find
>>a dealer and see what they have to offer.
>> I plan to use GM or Chrysler standard. They are smaller, light,
>> available
>>at a fair price, and meet what ever electrical requirements you can dream
>>up. Available, as in stock at auto dealers across the country. That
>>includes Sockets and Fast-On connectors.
>>
>> John D.
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>>To: "AeroElectric List" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Locking female fast on source needed
>>
>>
>> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
>> > chaztuna@adelphia.net
>>
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>
>
Message 27
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| From: | "royt.or@netzero.com" <royt.or@NetZero.com> (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam@matronics.com>) |
| Subject: | RE: Wire terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "royt.or@netzero.com" <royt.or@netzero.com>
(by way of Matt Dralle <nospam@matronics.com>)
Try
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?9X358218#RCT-1
Stock #: RCT-1
OR
http://www.steinair.com/tools.htm
I have the tool from B & C which works great.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped,
282hrs, 346 landings
Message 28
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| Subject: | Quickie Electronics |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jcrain2@juno.com" <jcrain2@juno.com>
I am hearing slight alternator noise in my headsets. Sometimes they are garbled
plus transp. doesn't always get through. I feel I need to separate my
com/intercom from the master solenoid and feed off the battery. I have already
installed the noise filter after the master solenoid.
Also the mic key makes the wing leveler turn plus the fuel gauge pegs out. Is
there an extra shielded coax that works with the B and C connectors or should I
pull some off of an other larger coax to double shield?
I have just a "whip antenna" with a metal screen ground plane. Would the aluminum
"Flying W" be better than a dipole flat metal ribbon that "Spruce" advertises?
Bruce Crain
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