Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:31 AM - Re: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . . . (Werner Schneider)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . . . (Paul McAllister)
3. 06:06 AM - Resistor values for LEDs (Wayne Williams)
4. 06:10 AM - Re: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:15 AM - Re: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:56 AM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (Brian Lloyd)
7. 06:56 AM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (Brian Lloyd)
8. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved .//NOT . (Paul Messinger)
9. 07:30 AM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (SportAV8R@aol.com)
10. 07:48 AM - Re: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . . . (John Schroeder)
11. 07:57 AM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (Kent Ashton)
12. 08:20 AM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (John Schroeder)
13. 08:22 AM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 10:08 AM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (echristley@nc.rr.com)
15. 02:02 PM - Crimping 22awg PIDG Terminal Mystery (DAVID REEL)
16. 06:30 PM - Re: Resistor values for LEDs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 07:17 PM - Re: Crimping 22awg PIDG Terminal Mystery (David Carter)
18. 10:06 PM - 28 Volt (Speedy11@aol.com)
19. 10:36 PM - 28 Volt (Speedy11@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Hello Tony,
I have also the B&C crimpers worked fine with their fastons, I used several
kind of d-sub pins and had also excellent results (all crimps still ok) and
did replace all my soldered d-subs with crimped (had a broken wire on the
encoder).
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Babb" <tonybabb@alejandra.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . .
.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Babb"
<tonybabb@alejandra.net>
>
> Bob et al,
>
> <snip>
> > . It's not difficult if you take time to understand
> > what's needed.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> Is there a list of known good tool/terminal/wire combinations based on
the
> 'lectric listers experience? Not that I'm looking for guarantees ... but
> would save me and others following from reinventing the same wheel you all
> invented before. For example if I bought the B&C ratchet crimpers - all
> three - are there known terminals/wire types they work well with/ or not
so
> well with.
>
> Of course we're always looking for good deals but in this case I don't
mind
> paying extra for a tool that will likely produce better connections for
the
> 'lectrically challenged such as me.
>
> .Thanks as always.
>
> Tony
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Tony,
I purchased my crimper and fastons from B&C and they worked perfectly
together. The same for the D sub pins and tool they sell.
I did purchase a cheaper tool from Radio Shack to do the BNC's ($15.00) and
it worked fine with the BNCs I purchased from B&C as well
Paul
Message 3
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| Subject: | Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>
Can someone tell me how to calculate the resistor value to go in series with
an LED in my 12VDC system.
Thanks!
Wayne
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved |
. . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
. . .
At 08:14 PM 9/2/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Babb" <tonybabb@alejandra.net>
>
>Bob et al,
>
><snip>
> > . It's not difficult if you take time to understand
> > what's needed.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> Is there a list of known good tool/terminal/wire combinations based on the
>'lectric listers experience? Not that I'm looking for guarantees ... but
>would save me and others following from reinventing the same wheel you all
>invented before. For example if I bought the B&C ratchet crimpers - all
>three - are there known terminals/wire types they work well with/ or not so
>well with.
Sure . . . the one's that B&C sells. The tool and terminal
inventory is (or at least was when I sold them the business)
based on my selection of tools and terminals that I tested to
prove compatibility with the tools. I would hope that ALL
merchants who offer interdependent products would be similarly
diligent in testing their compatibility.
As for any "list" . . . not that I know of. For the most part if
you purchase tools and materials from common sources like AMP,
Waldom/Molex, etc. you are assured of compatibility.
>Of course we're always looking for good deals but in this case I don't mind
>paying extra for a tool that will likely produce better connections for the
>'lectrically challenged such as me.
No need to pay "extra" . . . the combination of tools and components
I compiled, sold and ultimately transferred to B&C were selected
for their value and low price attractiveness. However, there's no
substitute
for getting educated enough to do your own evaluations for
compatibility . . . there's probably a half dozen articles
on tools and terminals on my website alone. If you have the time and
inclination to save money by doing a lot of research on the lower cost
offerings, that's great. However, I'll suggest that the best values are
those
where the research has been done by one to the benefit of many as
opposed to lots of folks doing their own research to the same end.
It seems that we're still not fully informed as to the compatibility
of the Cleveland tool . . . I tested it with AMP PIDG terminals and
found it incompatible. I guess there are samples of other terminals
coming that purport to fill in the gaps. We'll see and report
findings here. There's nothing that outperforms the repeatable
experiment for clearing away the fog.
In the mean time, if you need to purchase tools and materials at
attractive prices to move YOUR project along, I can vouch for the
collection offered by htp://bandc.biz Perhaps in a week or
so we can offer similar confirmation for Cleveland's offerings.
Bob . . .
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved |
. . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
. . .
At 09:30 AM 9/3/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
><wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
>
>Hello Tony,
>
>I have also the B&C crimpers worked fine with their fastons, I used several
>kind of d-sub pins and had also excellent results (all crimps still ok) and
>did replace all my soldered d-subs with crimped (had a broken wire on the
>encoder).
>
>Werner
Most people are not aware of it . . . but the d-sub crimp tool
they offer is available from lots of other sources in the wild . . .
but I determined early-on that the tool places the crimp in the
wrong place on the pin. All the tools we sold and now sold at
B&C have the pin-positioners cut down on a lathe to correct this
deficiency. This is an example of the efforts put forth (by
some suppliers least) to elevate the value of products and
services offered. Most folks who sell that tool don't have
a clue.
Bob . . .
---
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Sep 3, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Wayne Williams wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams"
> <rwayne@gamewood.net>
>
> Can someone tell me how to calculate the resistor value to go in
> series with
> an LED in my 12VDC system.
First you need to know three things:
1. the voltage drop across the LED at your operating current (I will
call this Vdl);
2. the operating current for the LED (I will call this Il);
3. the source voltage (Vs).
The high-brightness LEDs have different voltage drops depending on the
color of the LED. Red LEDs usually have a drop of about 1.5V. For the
sake of argument I will pick 20mA as the proper operating current.
Resistance = Volts/Amps (good old ohms law).
So the formula you want is:
R = (Vs - Vdl) / Il
For your example and using the values above, the calculation is:
R = (14V - 1.5V) / .020 A
R = 625 ohms.
> Thanks!
>
> Wayne
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Sep 3, 2004, at 9:08 AM, Wayne Williams wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams"
> <rwayne@gamewood.net>
>
> Can someone tell me how to calculate the resistor value to go in
> series with
> an LED in my 12VDC system.
First you need to know three things:
1. the voltage drop across the LED at your operating current (I will
call this Vdl);
2. the operating current for the LED (I will call this Il);
3. the source voltage (Vs).
The high-brightness LEDs have different voltage drops depending on the
color of the LED. Red LEDs usually have a drop of about 1.5V. For the
sake of argument I will pick 20mA as the proper operating current.
Resistance = Volts/Amps (good old ohms law).
So the formula you want is:
R = (Vs - Vdl) / Il
For your example and using the values above, the calculation is:
R = (14V - 1.5V) / .020 A
R = 625 ohms.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved .//NOT |
.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . . .
snip>>Unlike the tools B&C sells with symmetrical dies, >>>>
Bob, I simply do not understand how the above symetrical die tool will
properly crimp a terminal.
Sure it can crimp the conductor to the needed gas tight crimp.
However the insulation grip REQUIRES a different shape die to properly crimp
the insulation with the metal sleeve that is a part of the PIDG terminal.
The need is to crimp the sleeve on both sides of the wire with minimal
crimping on top of the wire.
After this thread started I went and looked again at my various crimpers. I
have crimpers designed for the vinyl insulation terminals commonly sold in
auto stores as well as AMP crimpers designed for PIDG terminals. Both types
work well on the terminals they were designed for. ALL have different die
shapes for the two parts of the crimp.
Insulation support is part of the terminal design and a proper insulation
crimp is needed in my opinion (as well as the industry it seems). Simply
looking at the result of a proper crimp shows the inner metal sleeve of the
terminal nicely shaped around the wire insulation without insulation
distortion and nearly 360 degree support. The excess material results in a
end view much like a round fush acft with mid stubby wings =O=.
Proper insulation support on the wire side of the crimp is critical to wire
to terminal long term resistance to failure.
Paul
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Wayne, there's also the empiric method, wher you connect a power supply or battery
in series with a sample LED and digital multimeter, and place various resistors
in series, starting with about 1k ohm and going lower in steps: 750, 680,
560, 470, 330, 220 until you achieve the brightness you want, or the listed
maximum current, or (for fun and education) until the LED gets real bright and
then pops. This will satisfy you that the LED is of a comfortable, useful brightness
and also (hopefully) within its rated current specs. I suggest this
experiment be done in a darkened workshop as well as in daylight, to see how you
like it in both conditions. You may want to include a dimmer, which is a whole
other subject...
-Stormy
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Tony -
We haven't even started to wire the airplane yet, but here is my
experience on tools and wiring thus far.
I finally bought the Ideal Stripmaster with the dies that Bob recommends.
A guy on the Lancair list bought several sets for a very good price and
passed the savings on to those of us lucky enough to catch his email and
react!! Two previous strippers are nowhere near it in quality and ease of
use. It is easily worth the money to get consistent, fast strips on
tefzel. If it does tefzel, it can do anything!
I bought the DSub crimper for machined pins from B&C. It works beautifully.
I bought a frame and dies (4100 series) for PIDG terminals & RG58 coax
from Sargent. They were on a closeout sale at RC and are very good.
However, when I ordered a set of dies from them, via Mouser, for open
barrel terminals, the order was so goofed up that I cancelled and bought a
Palladin frame (Series 1300) and two sets of dies for open barrels. The
order was in March and delivery had still not occurred as of August
15th!!! From what I can see, the PIDG and RG58 dies from Palladin would be
just as good as the Sargents. They certainly are much easier to swap dies
in the frame. They also use the same dies for more than one series of
frames.
After lots of practice with all of the tools - including open barrel
crimps on Molex Mini Fit Jr. pins to that miserable AWG 26 wire used on RC
Allen trim servos, I concluded that open barrels are by far the most
difficult. Bob's (B&C) tool and comic book piece on how to use it is a
good way to go. It is time consuming, but making two separate crimps saves
you crimps that are not placed in the dies correctly or wire inserted
improperly because you cannot see where it is in the terminal. The dies
tend to cover up the area. To do the Molex terminals, I literally had to
use a jewellers loop to set the pin in the tool, to strip the wire and
insert it into the pin for crimping. Furthermore, I had to cut off part
of the insulation "ears" to keep the crimper from mashing the insulation
into the wire and cutting it!
By comparison, the machined pins/Dsub combo is vastly easier to do. I hope
to standardize on Dsubs as much as I can and also on AMP CPC Type II's
because they use the machined pins. Unfortunately, Dsubs don't come in any
decent array of sizes and the CPC's do, but they are a lot more expensive
and a bit long. To fill the gap, we will use the Molex Minifit Jr's for
the remainder of the connectors. The pins can carry up to 9 amps and that
covers 90 percent of the requirements. They also have locking tabs that
are good to have. The older .062 and .093 molex connectors are ubiquitous
and cheap, but this newer line is better (IMHO). I'll practice a bit more
with the Palladin frame and dies. It looks like life will be a lot easier
with them when we can get to the AWG 22 wire down stream of the trim of
the RC Allen servos, indicators and switches! AWG 22 really should be the
absolute minimum size for wiring.
We keep learning over and over that life is too short, aggravating and
senseless to spend it trying to make cheap tools or the wrong type tool
work on something in the airplane.
BTW, buy at least a dozen extra pins of each size for practice and a
jewellers loop with a good bench light to examine your work.
Bob - How's this for a good ad for your long experience and advice?
Cheers,
John
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net>
Radio Shack has a little booklet on Opto-Electronics with an explanation of
LEDs and the resistor formulas. Good simple reference book.
--Kent
> From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>
> Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 09:08:47 -0400
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Resistor values for LEDs
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams"
> <rwayne@gamewood.net>
>
> Can someone tell me how to calculate the resistor value to go in series with
> an LED in my 12VDC system.
> Thanks!
>
> Wayne
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Try this web site. It is a tutorial and calculator!
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/led.htm
John
>> Can someone tell me how to calculate the resistor value to go in series
>> with an LED in my 12VDC system.
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Wayne
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 9/3/04 8:06:45 AM Central Daylight Time,
rwayne@gamewood.net writes:
> Can someone tell me how to calculate the resistor value to go in series
> with
> an LED in my 12VDC system.
>>>>>>
Hi Wayne-
If you can do excel, I've got a spreadsheet for multiple types & number of
LEDs in series- let me know...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: SportAV8R@aol.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Resistor values for LEDs
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Wayne, there's also the empiric method, wher you
connect a power
> supply or battery in series with a sample LED and
digital
> multimeter, and place various resistors in series,
starting with
> about 1k ohm and going lower in steps: 750, 680,
560, 470, 330, 220
> until you achieve the brightness you want, or the
listed maximum
> current, or (for fun and education) until the LED
gets real bright
> and then pops. This will satisfy you that the LED
is of a
> comfortable, useful brightness and also
(hopefully) within its
> rated current specs. I suggest this experiment be
done in a
> darkened workshop as well as in daylight, to see
how you like it in
> both conditions. You may want to include a
dimmer, which is a
> whole other subject...
>
> -Stormy
>
You'll also want to know that the LED will be
somewhat useful when the electron pump goes away on
you're on the tail end of battery operation. Either
use Brian's method to calculate that the current can
turn the LED on with the chosen resistor and only 11
volts,
OR
turn the power supply down to get down to 11 volts.
Most spec sheets will give a max, min and typical
current rating. Keeping the current just below the
typical current rating of a half decent LED will
almost guarantee that it will last longer than your
airframe.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Crimping 22awg PIDG Terminal Mystery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I got the Cleveland WTC380 crimper back from Bob today & used a dial caliper to
measure the minimum separation of the dies used for 22-18awg terminals. .097
inches. Then I measured the replacement from Cleveland. .088 inches. So I
think Buzz at Cleveland was right & my problem was just an out-of-spec variation
in the tool. I still can't figure out how Bob got a good crimp out of the
.097 inch tool though. By the way, Ideal's 30-579 die separaton measured ,088.
Still waiting to hear what Bob thinks of the grip on the insulation end from
the sample I sent him though.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor values for LEDs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:08 AM 9/3/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams"
><rwayne@gamewood.net>
>
>Can someone tell me how to calculate the resistor value to go in series with
>an LED in my 12VDC system.
>Thanks!
>
>Wayne
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/leds3.pdf
Bob . . .
---
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Crimping 22awg PIDG Terminal Mystery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Good info - thanks. Something that can be checked "ahead of time" to see
where a crimping die lies relative to sizes known to work with certain
terminals.
Do not archive
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crimping 22awg PIDG Terminal Mystery
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> I got the Cleveland WTC380 crimper back from Bob today & used a dial
caliper to measure the minimum separation of the dies used for 22-18awg
terminals. .097 inches. Then I measured the replacement from Cleveland.
.088 inches. So I think Buzz at Cleveland was right & my problem was just
an out-of-spec variation in the tool. I still can't figure out how Bob got
a good crimp out of the .097 inch tool though. By the way, Ideal's 30-579
die separaton measured ,088. Still waiting to hear what Bob thinks of the
grip on the insulation end from the sample I sent him though.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
I'm considering using a 28 volt electrical system in my RV-8 with one
alternator and two batteries. What are your thoughts on that? Are there drawbacks
to using 28 volt?
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa
RV-8A 25%
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
Forget my question. I should have researched the archives before asking.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa
RV-8A
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