Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - Re: Watts conversion (Ron Koyich)
2. 03:44 AM - Re: Watts conversion (Brian Lloyd)
3. 04:22 AM - Re: Watts conversion (Ron Koyich)
4. 06:02 AM - Re: Watts conversion (Steven Fingerhut)
5. 06:35 AM - Video camera, recorder, display system (was Re: Watts conversion (David Carter)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: Watts conversion (David Nelson)
7. 08:08 AM - Re: Pitot Heat wiring question.... (jacklockamy)
8. 08:10 AM - Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved .NOT . (Paul Messinger)
9. 08:46 AM - (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:48 AM - Re: Re; Electrical Education (DAVID REEL)
11. 08:59 AM - Re: Video camera, recorder, display system (was Re: Watts conversion (Jon Finley)
12. 09:02 AM - Re: Wire Stripper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 09:36 AM - Re: current limiting warning lights for EI (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 10:04 AM - Fw: Alternator Failure (Dan Checkoway)
15. 10:32 AM - SL40 intercom and isolation amp (Ken Simmons)
16. 11:18 AM - Re: Re: Re; Electrical Education (Eric M. Jones)
17. 11:57 AM - Re: wire tap (Paul)
18. 04:18 PM - Re: SL40 intercom and isolation amp (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 04:31 PM - Re: Fw: Alternator Failure (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 05:53 PM - Re: Aircraft receivers (Franz Fux)
21. 07:04 PM - Re: Re: Re: Re; Electrical Education (Richard E. Tasker)
22. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: Re: Re; Electrical Education (John Loram)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Watts conversion |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
5A vs 4A
Thanks, Steve - I sent out the calculator to get it repaired and it
came back with a note to repair the input device.<g>
Ron
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Watts conversion |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Sep 6, 2004, at 1:28 AM, Brian Lloyd wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
>
> On Sep 5, 2004, at 8:31 PM, Jon Finley wrote:
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley"
>> <jon@finleyweb.net>
>> The tv/vcr unit states that it consumes 65 watts at 13.2 volts. If I
>> understand this correctly, the unit will be consuming about 6.5 amps
>> (at
>> 13.2 volts). Is this correct?
>
> Yes.
No, and I don't know what I was thinking. P = I * E. I = P/E. P =
65W, E = 13.2V I = 65W/13.2V = 4.9A
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
Message 3
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| Subject: | Watts conversion |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
It's contagious, Brian.....<G>
Do Not Archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Watts conversion |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Steven Fingerhut <beechboy@nctv.com>
Hello Ron,
Aren't you down under? Maybe it has something to do with it! <G>
Steve
> From: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
> Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 15:05:23 +0800
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Watts conversion
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
>
> 5A vs 4A
>
> Thanks, Steve - I sent out the calculator to get it repaired and it
> came back with a note to repair the input device.<g>
>
>
> Ron
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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conversion
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Jon Finley,
Please tell us more about your wireless video camera:
Brand:
Model number:
Source:
Price:
And the little recorder/display combo:
Brand:
Model number:
Source:
Price:
David
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Watts conversion
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have purchased a really slick little wireless color video camera. I
> intend to mount this camera on my airframe in various places for both
> enjoyment and drag reduction efforts (I have found it REALLY hard to see
> the belly of the airplane while flying!). I need to carry a little 13"
> tv/vcr combo in the airplane to record the video. So, the question:
>
> The tv/vcr unit states that it consumes 65 watts at 13.2 volts.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Watts conversion |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: David Nelson <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the GREAT morning laugh!! I'll have to remember that one for sure!
/\/elson
Do not archive
On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Ron Koyich wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Koyich" <Ron@Koyich.com>
>
> 5A vs 4A
>
> Thanks, Steve - I sent out the calculator to get it repaired and it
> came back with a note to repair the input device.<g>
>
>
> Ron
>
> Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat wiring question.... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
The pitot heat ground IS located near the mast.... however.... I have NOT ohm'd
it out. I will give that a try along with the other suggestions I received off-list....
Thanks,
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved .NOT . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
On the insulation grip side of the AMP tool its not the one dimension its
the overall shape of the die.
You get =O= vs around the insulation.
On the wire side of the crimper, Dies that are designed for the common vinyl
insulated terminals have a larger min die opening vs the Nylon PIDG terminal
tools as the Nylon insulation is thinner. (not the only difference but one
that is simple to see just by looking). The copper part of the terminal is
very different between the common and the PIDG types.
Also the AMP tools hold the terminal on all 4 sides so not only is there a
top to bottom clamping but the sides are supported (to prevent the otherwise
resulting increase in width) so you get copper compression all around. This
is a feature not found on any of the lower cost Tools I have seen. This
results in a very controlled squeeze that insures a HI quality result. Just
what you could expect from a $500 to $600 tool.
As Bob has suggested its possible for a reliable result from a much lower
cost tool.
I will look next time I am in my hanger and provide the AMP part numbers for
the tools I have. The AMP web site has the specs on these tools. Each Tool
has the applicable PIDG terminal sizes the dies were designed for so its
easy to get the right tool.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Cleveland Crimp Tool Mystery Solved .NOT .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Concerning the insulation grip of the asymetrical die tools, I went back
to the dial caliper and measured the minimum die opening on the insulation
grip side. Here's the results:
>
> Loose grip Cleveland tool: .159
> Replacement tight grip tool: .149
> Ideal crimper with 30-579 die .125
>
> Looks like the Cleveland tool's insulation grip on the 22awg wire is
somewhat loose compared to the ideal dies. I'm real curious what the minimu
m gaps are on your $600 AMP crimper Bob.
>
> Dave Reel
>
>
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Hi Bob
>
>I have 2 questions
>1. where do I order a circuitboard for the isolation amplifier
>(AEC9009-301-1)??
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
>2. thinking out loud here, wondering where to run all the
>wiring....building an RV8 battery in the back, running a #2 to the
>firewall. the #2 passes by the fuseblock(s), is there a way to cut the
>insulation off locally and making a tap point for a #4 or so? I do realize
>that the 2 foot from the fire wall back to the fuseblocks in #4 or
>whatever the size is, won't kill me.
Some builders have successfully "tapped" a 2AWG or larger
pass-by either a soldered tap wire to the pass-by or
using a split-bolt tap . . . See:
http://www.goodmart.com/products/84477.htm
You can get these at Home Depot and most real hardware
stores. Electrical integrity is assured with these products
but you want to be sure you've mechanically protected the
joint with moisture barrier and insulation. A non-hardening
moldable sealant covered with heat shrink. All this
is pretty labor intensive . . . The only airplane on which
I found this to be really practical was a seaplane where
batteries were about 8' of wire forward of the instrument
panel. Here we decided that tapping the wire had a lower
parts count and higher longevity than putting terminals on
all the wires and bringing them together on an insulated,
threaded post.
In your case, I think I'd bring a small feeder back through
the firewall from the starter contactor to the fuseblocks.
You can use feed-through insulated posts . . . but they
increase parts count and raise questions about firewall
integrity. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
> what about using a bulkhead pass-tru in the form of an 3/8 copper bolt
> in an insulator??
If you can find a threaded fastener feedthru with really
fire proof or fire resistant insulator, okay. The ones
I've seen offered by automotive speed shops are NOT suitable.
>Well, thanks for your time..
You're welcome . . .
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Re; Electrical Education |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>1) Wouldnt an incandescent lamp (assumed) be a resistive load and have the
same
>rating as given for the resistive circuit load?
A resistive load behaves like Ohm's law. But a lamp usually has a
cold-filament current many times the hot filament current. It does not obey
Ohm's law very well.
An incandescent lamp filament is a resistive load that obeys Ohm's law. What happens
is the resistance of the filament increases a lot as it heats up. If you
measure the resistance of a cold filament you get a value that will give you
the initial inrush current. The rating on the bulb can be used to calculate
the resistance of a hot filament. AC43.13-1B paragraph 11-53 has good info on
the switch issue. It states that you can expect an inrush current 15 times
larger than the hot filament steady state current rating on the lamp. The book
suggests using a switch with 5 times the current capacity of the lamp.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: camera, recorder, display system (was Re: AeroElectric-List: |
Watts conversion
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Thanks to all for the Watts to Amps confirmation. I think my electrical
system can handle a 5 amp load! :-)
Sure thing David. Nothing fancy, expensive, or cutting edge. I found a
retail booth at OSH this year offering these miniature wireless "spy
camera's" for $175. I was very intrigued but knew that I had better
check eBay before spending $175.00. Good thing I did - mine cost me
$26.33 including shipping.
The item that I purchased is (not sure if you can still view this
online):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5715053705&ssPag
eName=STRK:MEWN:IT
If you search eBay for "wireless color CCTV camera" you'll find a bunch
of them.
Here is a link to an item exactly like I have and from the same seller
("inesun":
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48632&item=571891
3175
Both the camera and reciever run off a 9 volt battery, I think I read
somewhere that this was good for two hours.
Notice that the unit I have has 380 line resolution. I don't understand
how TV resolution works but understand that this is not quite TV quality
resolution. However; it does look pretty good walking around the house
and yard. There are probably much better units available if one is
willing to do some research and spend more money.
The tv/vcr combo is a Symphonic SC3809. Looking at the spec's, turns out
that it's a 9" unit. It states 65 watts at 13.2 volts on the back. I
think we bought it at Walmart a few years ago for about $100.00. I had
hoped to hook the camera into my camcorder but this doesn't seem to be
possible (with my unit anyway).
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 465 Hrs. TT
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of David Carter
> Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 8:32 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Video camera, recorder, display system (was Re:
> AeroElectric-List: Watts conversion
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> --> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Jon Finley,
>
> Please tell us more about your wireless video camera:
> Brand:
> Model number:
> Source:
> Price:
>
> And the little recorder/display combo:
> Brand:
> Model number:
> Source:
> Price:
>
> David
>
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Watts conversion
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley"
> > --> <jon@finleyweb.net>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I have purchased a really slick little wireless color video
> camera. I
> > intend to mount this camera on my airframe in various
> places for both
> > enjoyment and drag reduction efforts (I have found it
> REALLY hard to
> > see the belly of the airplane while flying!). I need to carry a
> > little 13" tv/vcr combo in the airplane to record the
> video. So, the
> > question:
> >
> > The tv/vcr unit states that it consumes 65 watts at 13.2 volts.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Stripper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <rnuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
At 11:13 PM 8/28/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
>Radio Shack has a new one out that works very well. It has no dies and no
>holes. It automatically adjusts to the wire size. Cost about $19 I could
>not get the one from B&C to work for me at all.
What stripper did you buy from B&C? I don't see one on their
website and was unaware of any strippers they were offering.
Bob . . .
---
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: current limiting warning lights for EI |
instruments
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
instruments
At 07:55 PM 9/4/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: david caswell
> > <davidbcaswell@yahoo.com>
> >
> > The warning lights are from the B & C Specialties
> > http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?
> > 10X358218#s888-1-2. I really didn't look at the bulbs, or even if
> > they had bulbs. I assume they are incandescent. I will look
> > tomorrow. Thanks for direction.
>
>I am familiar with the assembly as the same one came with my LR-3
>regulator. I don't remember the current drain either but I suspect it
>would work fine directly with the EI instruments without any extra
>hardware.
The lamp assemblies from B&C are incandescent. For a time,
B&C offered 6v lamps in their 14 volt regulator kits . . . made
for a really bright warning light.
These fixtures accept the T1-3/4 midge flanged base bulbs which
are available in a variety of voltage, service life ratings
and intensities. See:
http://www.chml.com/aviation/avia_incan3.cfm?type=T-1%203/4&crit=t134
Get the part number off the lamp and check its ratings against
the catalog page.
Bob . . .
---
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fw: Alternator Failure |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ed says his email is being rejected from this list for some reason. Figured
I'd post it here for him.
----- Original Message -----
From: <edmondperry@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Alternator Failure
> I tried sending this through the Aeroelectric list but it kept getting
returned. No responses from The VAF, So now it's out to you all...Anybody
know about Alternators and voltage regulators?
>
> What is the failure mode of an alternator? Here's the scenario, 35amp
alternator (from Van's)and the following equipment running. MicroAir 760
radio, EIS-4000, u-encoder, Garmin GTX320A- Transponder, LED cockpit
lighting, Taxi Light (Duckworth 55w) and then when I turned on the landing
light(Duckworth 55w) for takeoff the EIS-4000 gives an alarm for
12.2V(meaning I lost the alternator), and I start to smell burning
electrical. I immediately pull the CB for the alternator, but it is too
late. The alternator is toast. How does an alternator fail like this and
was it due to the increased current requirements with the second landing
light? I ran the figures and it seems like I was below the 35Amps that the
alternator was rated for. Even so if I was drawing more than 35Amps
wouldn't that just mean that the alternator would not be replacing the
current to the battery as fast as I was using it? Any ideas? Could it have
just been coincdence, and induced by the additional load?
>
> I'm confused....
>
> Ed Perry
> RV-8
> 190 hours
Message 15
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| Subject: | SL40 intercom and isolation amp |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I asked a similar question before, but it may have been on a different group. I
received some good answers, but I would like to be a little more specific.
I think everyone that replied said an intercom of some sort was necessary in an
RV. The question was about using the built-in intercom on some of the radios.
Most said this wasn't a good idea. I'm wondering specifically about the intercom
function in the SL40. This radio seems to be well liked including the intercom
function. I'm wondering if this radio/intercom in conjuction with one of
Bob's audio isolation amps would be acceptable and eliminate the need for a separate
intercom.
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE (remove if you want your answer there)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Re; Electrical Education |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>>1) Wouldnt an incandescent lamp (assumed) be a resistive load and have
the
same
>rating as given for the resistive circuit load?
A resistive load behaves like Ohm's law. But a lamp usually has a
cold-filament current many times the hot filament current. It does not
obey
Ohm's law very well.
>An incandescent lamp filament is a resistive load that obeys Ohm's law.
What happens
>is the resistance of the filament increases a lot as it heats up. If you
>measure the resistance of a cold filament you get a value that will give
you
>the initial inrush current.
I stand by my wild blathering. For filament lamps, voltage and current do
not follow the simple equation "I=E/R" because the lamp's filament
resistance does not remain stable for different currents. Ohm's law
expresses a linear relationship that filament lamps do not follow very well.
Is Ohm's law true for filament lamps as "t goes to zero"?.....Yes, but
that's not the issue here.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Some days you get the food pellet; some days you get the electric shock."
---Rat
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
Just had to do some wiring and tap into a 200a system for a new building. The
latest NEC required insulated cable blocks as split bolts are now forbidden. Turns
out that the local electrical supply house has most sizes in stock. They
have blocks for wires from 14 to 750 and all kinds of taps are available.
A simple one will slip over an existing wire and allow a tap. No cutting is required. When the assembly is complete it is fully insulated. Test the plastic to see if it meets airplane standards. The brand I used is shown at www.nsipolaris.com. To tap welding wire one would have to prep the joint by filling the wires with solder so the bolt would not damage the fine wires.
The way the block work is just like the blocks in a commercial breaker panel
which is a set screw crunches the wire in an AL/CU block. The insulated device
has plastic plugs to seal the holes.
Tell you one thing for sure - the split bolts are a lot easier to install and
they cost much less.
Paul
==========
At 10:43 AM -0500 9/6/04, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>> Hi Bob
>>
> >I have 2 questions
>---- snip ------
>
>>2. thinking out loud here, wondering where to run all the
>>wiring....building an RV8 battery in the back, running a #2 to the
>>firewall. the #2 passes by the fuseblock(s), is there a way to cut the
>>insulation off locally and making a tap point for a #4 or so? I do realize
>>that the 2 foot from the fire wall back to the fuseblocks in #4 or
>>whatever the size is, won't kill me.
>
>
> Some builders have successfully "tapped" a 2AWG or larger
> pass-by either a soldered tap wire to the pass-by or
> using a split-bolt tap . . . See:
>
> http://www.goodmart.com/products/84477.htm
>
> You can get these at Home Depot and most real hardware
> stores. Electrical integrity is assured with these products
> but you want to be sure you've mechanically protected the
> joint with moisture barrier and insulation. A non-hardening
> moldable sealant covered with heat shrink. All this
> is pretty labor intensive . . . The only airplane on which
> I found this to be really practical was a seaplane where
> batteries were about 8' of wire forward of the instrument
> panel. Here we decided that tapping the wire had a lower
> parts count and higher longevity than putting terminals on
> all the wires and bringing them together on an insulated,
> threaded post.
>
> In your case, I think I'd bring a small feeder back through
> the firewall from the starter contactor to the fuseblocks.
> You can use feed-through insulated posts . . . but they
> increase parts count and raise questions about firewall
> integrity. See:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
>
>
>> what about using a bulkhead pass-tru in the form of an 3/8 copper bolt
>> in an insulator??
>
> If you can find a threaded fastener feedthru with really
> fire proof or fire resistant insulator, okay. The ones
> I've seen offered by automotive speed shops are NOT suitable.
>
>
>>Well, thanks for your time..
>
> You're welcome . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> -----------------------------------------
--
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: SL40 intercom and isolation amp |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:32 AM 9/6/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
>I asked a similar question before, but it may have been on a different
>group. I received some good answers, but I would like to be a little more
>specific.
>
>I think everyone that replied said an intercom of some sort was necessary
>in an RV. The question was about using the built-in intercom on some of
>the radios. Most said this wasn't a good idea. I'm wondering specifically
>about the intercom function in the SL40. This radio seems to be well liked
>including the intercom function. I'm wondering if this radio/intercom in
>conjuction with one of Bob's audio isolation amps would be acceptable and
>eliminate the need for a separate intercom.
The audio isolation amplifier has nothing to do with the intercom.
An iso amp provides a way to mix multiple received signal sources
with and optional entertainment source. If you have more than
one receiver and/or you wish to add a music source (stereo or
monophonic) to your equipment list, then some form of audio
mixer is called for.
There are some perfectly good intercom systems built into radios.
If the intercom is fitted with either adjustable vox controls
or autovox like the PS Engineering products, there's no reason
why it should not perform adequately. I can't think of any
reason that using an intercom built into a radio is a "bad"
idea.
Bob . . .
---
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Alternator Failure |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:03 AM 9/6/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Ed says his email is being rejected from this list for some reason. Figured
>I'd post it here for him.
I got the same query from Ed direct to my personal e-mail box. I've
attached my reply to him below. . .
By the way, had a nice visit with Cheryl and Tim Hedding
at their half done new house (3 years gone, 3 years to go)
east of Newton this afternoon. They work at B&C. See:
http://www.bandcspecialty.com/Staff.html
Cheryl told me of an L-60 alternator returned for zero-time
overhaul last week. The alternator had over 2000 hours on it
and the owner was overhauling the engine. She said she was
amazed at the condition of the alternator. She thought it would
have run another 2K as is. The bearings were great. Brush lengths
were good to go, slip rings were smooth and bright.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <edmondperry@sbcglobal.net>
>Subject: Alternator Failure
>
>
> > I tried sending this through the Aeroelectric list but it kept getting
>returned. No responses from The VAF, So now it's out to you all...Anybody
>know about Alternators and voltage regulators?
> >
> > What is the failure mode of an alternator? Here's the scenario, 35amp
>alternator (from Van's)and the following equipment running. MicroAir 760
>radio, EIS-4000, u-encoder, Garmin GTX320A- Transponder, LED cockpit
>lighting, Taxi Light (Duckworth 55w) and then when I turned on the landing
>light(Duckworth 55w) for takeoff the EIS-4000 gives an alarm for
>12.2V(meaning I lost the alternator), and I start to smell burning
>electrical. I immediately pull the CB for the alternator, but it is too
>late. The alternator is toast. How does an alternator fail like this and
>was it due to the increased current requirements with the second landing
>light? I ran the figures and it seems like I was below the 35Amps that the
>alternator was rated for. Even so if I was drawing more than 35Amps
>wouldn't that just mean that the alternator would not be replacing the
>current to the battery as fast as I was using it? Any ideas? Could it have
>just been coincdence, and induced by the additional load?
> >
> > I'm confused...
The failure probably had nothing to do with load. They can
fail for several reasons that have nothing to do with
electrical stresses. Last I heard, Vans sells rebuilt
alternators. My personal choice for an aircraft alternator
would be the B&C L-40. Return rate on these machines has
been under 1% . . . for the entire fleet for the market
lifetime of nearly 15 years and several thousand units
sold.
It is quite likely that the L-40 is the last alternator
you'll have to buy.
BTW, you don't HAVE to use an LR-3 regulator with an L-40
although it too is an excellent performer. You can use a
generic Ford regulator and add your own ov protection.
I take if from your original query that you already have
active notification of low voltage so an LR-3 is overkill.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Bob . . .
---
Message 20
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| Subject: | Aircraft receivers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Franz Fux" <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
Hi Harley,
could you tell me what kind of intercom is included in the package,
Franz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Harley
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Aircraft receivers
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
I had considered that model...but just received my Microair M760 yesterday!
The Xcom does look like it has some better features, but I was as much
concerned with price...and Microair had the best deal (IMHO) with their
combo package that included everything including the transponder,
transceiver, VOX intercom, encoder and cables and antenna for $2700 US.
That's a considerable discount from Micrtoir's individual prices, with
an additional 5% from OxAero in Mississippi where I bought it.
http://www.oxaero.com/Microair-ComboKits.asp
And with the fine reputation that Microair has acheived in the field, I
didn't want to take a chance with the new kid on the block...it may be
better, but I didn't want to be the one to find out that it isn't.
Harley Dixon
www.agelesswings.com
James Foerster wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster"
<jmfpublic@comcast.net>
>
>Does anyone have any experience with the XCOM 760, available from
>Aircraft Spruce? It is made by Micheal Coates out of Australia, and
>seems to be loosely based on the Micro Air 760. It seems to have
>advantages, in that it has a VOX circuit rather than 'hot mike' that
>Micro Air uses. It is priced just under $1000 now, as is the iCom
>ic-A200. The iCom looks nice, but I recall at least one negative
>comment about ignition noise--which may be very antenna and plane
>specific. Any comments?
>
>The web page comparing the XCOM to others is
>http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/comparison/comparison.html
>
>
---
---
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Re; Electrical Education |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Sorry, Eric, but David is correct on this one.
An incandescent light does indeed follow Ohm's law. What it doesn't do
is remain the same resistance as it heats up - but that doesn't mean
that ohms law doesn't hold at any given resistance. Ohm's law doesn't
say anything about linearity of a load - only that at any particular set
of R, I and E they will follow the equation.
Dick Tasker
Eric M. Jones wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> >>1) Wouldnt an incandescent lamp (assumed) be a resistive load and have
>the
> same
> >rating as given for the resistive circuit load?
>
> A resistive load behaves like Ohm's law. But a lamp usually has a
> cold-filament current many times the hot filament current. It does not
>obey
> Ohm's law very well.
>
>
>
>>An incandescent lamp filament is a resistive load that obeys Ohm's law.
>>
>>
>What happens
>
>
>>is the resistance of the filament increases a lot as it heats up. If you
>>measure the resistance of a cold filament you get a value that will give
>>
>>
>you
>
>
>>the initial inrush current.
>>
>>
>
>I stand by my wild blathering. For filament lamps, voltage and current do
>not follow the simple equation "I=E/R" because the lamp's filament
>resistance does not remain stable for different currents. Ohm's law
>expresses a linear relationship that filament lamps do not follow very well.
>
>Is Ohm's law true for filament lamps as "t goes to zero"?.....Yes, but
>that's not the issue here.
>
>Regards,
>Eric M. Jones
>www.PerihelionDesign.com
>113 Brentwood Drive
>Southbridge MA 01550-2705
>Phone (508) 764-2072
>Email: emjones@charter.net
>
>Some days you get the food pellet; some days you get the electric shock."
> ---Rat
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Re; Electrical Education |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Loram" <johnl@loram.org>
This is one of those wonderful philosophical questions that divides the
real world from the simple/ideal world. Ohm's law tell us that if you
double the voltage the current will double. But ohm's law is a simple
equation that is only correct in the simple/ideal world where loads are
simple/ideal and do not respond to the current flowing through them. In
the real world, like light bulbs, loads are affected by the current
flowing through them. The tungsten lamp filament like many materials has
a positive temperature coefficient. As it gets hot it's resistance
increases. Ohm's law does not take that into account. There are other
formulations that do.
So, is Ohm's law broken????? Well, perhaps not. It's just not up to the
task of describing a light bulb. You have to make sure that the science
you are using is up to describing the world your investigating. E.g.
classical physics bombs out at the quantum level.
Regards, -john-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Richard E. Tasker
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Re: Re; Electrical Education
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
--> <retasker@optonline.net>
Sorry, Eric, but David is correct on this one.
An incandescent light does indeed follow Ohm's law. What it doesn't do
is remain the same resistance as it heats up - but that doesn't mean
that ohms law doesn't hold at any given resistance. Ohm's law doesn't
say anything about linearity of a load - only that at any particular set
of R, I and E they will follow the equation.
Dick Tasker
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