Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:19 AM - Re: Making neat cable ()
2. 06:05 AM - Voltage regulator (Chris Horsten)
3. 06:28 AM - Re: Making neat cable runs (Turbo Tom)
4. 09:06 AM - Re: Battery grounding (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 01:17 PM - Re: Transmitter/Autopilot interference (J. Oberst)
6. 01:58 PM - Re: Transmitter/Autopilot interference (Paul Schattauer)
7. 02:10 PM - Re: Transmitter/Autopilot interference (Bruce Gray)
8. 10:06 PM - Garmin GPS LCD? (David A. Leonard)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Making neat cable |
runs
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <lhelming@sigecom.net> runs
David, this can be the most challanging part of wiring. Good
documentation (wire numbering and logging to wire book) and
setting up wiring run paths and making sure all wires run one
of the designated paths. Run one wire at a time and keep your
run tight. Buy lots of elcheapo plastic ties and use everyone
of them by cutting the old one off and adding a new one as you
add each wire to the run. You'll have a much neater wiring
job in the end. You could include in your numbering log wire
book the path used for each wire if you wanted to assign a
name to each path. It will make future maintenace easier.
Where it is very hard to do however I found with all the wires
going ever which way from the radio stack. I had John Stark
wire my radio harnesses. It is close to chaos behind the
radios even with his well built harness to start with.
Indiana Larry
Message 2
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| Subject: | Voltage regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Horsten" <airplanes@sympatico.ca>
Hi,
I'm new to this list. I'm busy refitting a Zenair CH-300 with a Lycoming
engine, and I want to improve upon the electrical system a little. I have an
old alternator (Chrysler I think) and one of those old vibrating Voltage
Regulators. I see that B&C has some really nice options, but a little out of
my budget. I wonder if anyone can suggest an automotive equivalent that
could do over voltage protection, and maybe under voltage warning light?
Solid state of course!
Thanks for any help
Chris
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Making neat cable runs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Turbo Tom" <turbotom@mindspring.com>
Buy lots of elcheapo plastic ties and use everyone
> of them by cutting the old one off and adding a new one as you
> add each wire to the run. You'll have a much neater wiring
> job in the end.
This does work well, but twist-ties like those used with plastic trash bags
or bread wrappers are even simpler and handier. No tools required to remove
and reinstall. You can buy a box of 1000 on-line for about $7US. I bought
the 6-inch long ones and cut them in half for the smaller bundles.
TT
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Battery grounding |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Bob,
>I am restoring a Marchetti SF-260 and have looked at the wiring harness --
>thirty some years old. Question is on grounds -- battery is in baggage
>area far away from the starter etc. Is it a good idea to run a ground
>cable from the bat to the firewall for a good ground or just ground the
>bat in the baggage area? I have read your book from front to back, Your
>book has stimulated this e-mail
>Tom.
Obviously, there are tens of thousands of airplanes with
rear mounted batteries wherein the airframe is used
as ground return for the battery. If it were my
airplane, I would strive to limit use of the airframe
as a component of the electrical system. Pitot heaters,
landing lights, taxi lights, nav lights and strobe supplies
can be grounded locally with zero risk of generating or
aggravating ground induced noise coupling between systems.
Further, if the airplane is aged, I think it's a good idea
to bring battery (-) to the firewall ground stud instead
of local grounding to structure in the tail.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Transmitter/Autopilot interference |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Paul, a local avionics guy told me that STEC had trouble with the pressure
transducer and had a new metal model, but I got the idea that it had to do
with reliability. I guess not. Perhaps the first thing I try is wrapping
the transducer and its wiring with foil.
I understand a new transducer is near $1000.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711@msn.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Schattauer"
<chasm711@msn.com>
>
>
> S TEC has a new aluminum pitch transducer that eliminates this problem.
RF
> was apparently getting into the pitch transducer when transmitting.
>
> Paul
>
>
> >From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> >Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
> >Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:23:35 -0500
> >
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
> ><joberst@cox-internet.com>
> >
> >I have an S-TEC system 55 A/P in my Glasair Super II. When the A/P is in
> >the vertical speed or altitude-hold mode, and I transmit on my Garmin GNS
> >530, the autopilot is affected and my airplane pitches down. If I
transmit
> >on my other radio, an Apollo SL60, I have no such problem. I've tried
> >switching the antennas between the two radios, and it's still the Garmin
> >that causes the problem.
> >
> >Both COM antennas are in the rear of the airplane, so the coax runs back
> >past the pitch servo. The coax is the kind that has an extra metal
shield
> >around it. Since switching antennas didn't change the offending radio,
my
> >guess is that the problem is something else... maybe a bad ground? All
> >avionics are in the same stack, which is firmly bolted together and also
> >has lots of ground wires run. The GNS is farther from the A/P than is
the
> >Apollo radio.
> >
> >I need some suggestions on how to go about troubleshooting this
> >arrangement... where do I start, and what are all the things I should
> >check? I am familiar with electronics.
> >
> >Jim Oberst
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Transmitter/Autopilot interference |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711@msn.com>
It may be under warranty, check with your avionics supplier. It was for me
and it fixed the problem. Price was about $500. If your warranty has
expiredI would think some grounded foil around the transducer wuld help.
Paul
>From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 15:16:53 -0500
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
><joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
>Paul, a local avionics guy told me that STEC had trouble with the pressure
>transducer and had a new metal model, but I got the idea that it had to do
>with reliability. I guess not. Perhaps the first thing I try is wrapping
>the transducer and its wiring with foil.
>
>I understand a new transducer is near $1000.
>
>Jim Oberst
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711@msn.com>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Schattauer"
><chasm711@msn.com>
> >
> >
> > S TEC has a new aluminum pitch transducer that eliminates this problem.
>RF
> > was apparently getting into the pitch transducer when transmitting.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > >From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> > >Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> > >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
> > >Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:23:35 -0500
> > >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
> > ><joberst@cox-internet.com>
> > >
> > >I have an S-TEC system 55 A/P in my Glasair Super II. When the A/P is
>in
> > >the vertical speed or altitude-hold mode, and I transmit on my Garmin
>GNS
> > >530, the autopilot is affected and my airplane pitches down. If I
>transmit
> > >on my other radio, an Apollo SL60, I have no such problem. I've tried
> > >switching the antennas between the two radios, and it's still the
>Garmin
> > >that causes the problem.
> > >
> > >Both COM antennas are in the rear of the airplane, so the coax runs
>back
> > >past the pitch servo. The coax is the kind that has an extra metal
>shield
> > >around it. Since switching antennas didn't change the offending radio,
>my
> > >guess is that the problem is something else... maybe a bad ground? All
> > >avionics are in the same stack, which is firmly bolted together and
>also
> > >has lots of ground wires run. The GNS is farther from the A/P than is
>the
> > >Apollo radio.
> > >
> > >I need some suggestions on how to go about troubleshooting this
> > >arrangement... where do I start, and what are all the things I should
> > >check? I am familiar with electronics.
> > >
> > >Jim Oberst
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Transmitter/Autopilot interference |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
STEC's warrantee on kit plane installs starts at the date of the first
flight and continues for 1 year. I just fought this battle with them
over a defective annunciator display.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Schattauer
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Schattauer"
<chasm711@msn.com>
It may be under warranty, check with your avionics supplier. It was for
me
and it fixed the problem. Price was about $500. If your warranty has
expiredI would think some grounded foil around the transducer wuld help.
Paul
>From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 15:16:53 -0500
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
><joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
>Paul, a local avionics guy told me that STEC had trouble with the
pressure
>transducer and had a new metal model, but I got the idea that it had to
do
>with reliability. I guess not. Perhaps the first thing I try is
wrapping
>the transducer and its wiring with foil.
>
>I understand a new transducer is near $1000.
>
>Jim Oberst
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711@msn.com>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Schattauer"
><chasm711@msn.com>
> >
> >
> > S TEC has a new aluminum pitch transducer that eliminates this
problem.
>RF
> > was apparently getting into the pitch transducer when transmitting.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > >From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> > >Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> > >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Transmitter/Autopilot interference
> > >Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:23:35 -0500
> > >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
> > ><joberst@cox-internet.com>
> > >
> > >I have an S-TEC system 55 A/P in my Glasair Super II. When the A/P
is
>in
> > >the vertical speed or altitude-hold mode, and I transmit on my
Garmin
>GNS
> > >530, the autopilot is affected and my airplane pitches down. If I
>transmit
> > >on my other radio, an Apollo SL60, I have no such problem. I've
tried
> > >switching the antennas between the two radios, and it's still the
>Garmin
> > >that causes the problem.
> > >
> > >Both COM antennas are in the rear of the airplane, so the coax runs
>back
> > >past the pitch servo. The coax is the kind that has an extra metal
>shield
> > >around it. Since switching antennas didn't change the offending
radio,
>my
> > >guess is that the problem is something else... maybe a bad ground?
All
> > >avionics are in the same stack, which is firmly bolted together and
>also
> > >has lots of ground wires run. The GNS is farther from the A/P than
is
>the
> > >Apollo radio.
> > >
> > >I need some suggestions on how to go about troubleshooting this
> > >arrangement... where do I start, and what are all the things I
should
> > >check? I am familiar with electronics.
> > >
> > >Jim Oberst
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David A. Leonard" <dleonar1@maine.rr.com>
I have an LCD display question.
I was given a 1995 Garmin Meridian XL GPS, that hadn't run in a few years.
I cleaned it up and put new batteries in. It would boot, but the LCD
display was missing a bunch of its lines, so the display is unreadable.
I sez Hmmmmm, and took it apart and tried cleaning the pin connector
connecting the two boards halfs with De-oxit. No dice, no better.
I tried taking the LCD display off, and pulling the frame off and the glass
which is the display right off. There are a whole bunch of contacts on the
board, like several hundred on the top, and maybe half as many on the
bottom. Then there are flexible rubber strips, white with a black center
(carbon conductor sandwiched in neoprene maybe?) section that sit on the
board contacts, and also the other side of them sit on the glass of the LCD
screen. They run the horizontal length of the glass and contacts, top and
bottom, they are about 3" x 3/16 x 1/4" tall, with the black conductor
section contacting the glass and the board. I am assuming these are the
conductors to carry the juice to the screen to display the information . I
cleaned the edges of them but no dice. One of the strips was half unglued
from the glass..me being me I pulled it all the way off...Put the whole
mess back together....
So anyway, I still have the middle of the display displaying, and very
faint information on the outer thirds of the screen, the screen seems to be
divided vertically, with the middle third almost okay, the edges barely
visible.
Is there a conductive glue or paste used for the strip connections?
Do the glass units themselves fail over time..I always assume nothing is
wrong and it is usually a connection with most stuff..but I really don't know.
Anyone know how these things work?
I realize that $99 gets me a new unit, I have a few spares around anyway,
but that isn't the point...I should be able to fix it and screw It to some
vehicle or other!
I do like technology the fits well in the trashcan and is nicely
replaceable, so maybe this is the thing..
Thanks, Dave Leonard
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