Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:57 AM - Voltage regulator (Mike Lehman)
2. 05:04 AM - Re: Garmin GPS LCD? (Trampas)
3. 03:37 PM - Re: Voltage regulator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 03:44 PM - Re: Contacts for MS347x series connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:50 PM - Re: Voltage regulator (Chris Horsten)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Voltage regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Lehman" <lehmans@sympatico.ca>
Chris,
I suggest you consider the generic Ford type regulator: VR-166. It's quite
universally available and easily mounted on the firewall. It's amazingly
inexpensive in the US but costs about $50 cdn in Canada. The VR-166X is
Carquest's 'heavy duty' version with over voltage indication (flashing
charge light for over voltage; steady charge light for under voltage). You
could also put a zener diode on the load side of a 5 Amp circuit breaker to
remove power from the regulator if an over voltage event occurs.
Mike
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Horsten"
<airplanes@sympatico.ca>
I'm new to this list. I'm busy refitting a Zenair CH-300 with a Lycoming
engine, and I want to improve upon the electrical system a little. I have an
old alternator (Chrysler I think) and one of those old vibrating Voltage
Regulators. I see that B&C has some really nice options, but a little out of
my budget. I wonder if anyone can suggest an automotive equivalent that
could do over voltage protection, and maybe under voltage warning light?
Solid state of course!
Thanks for any help
Chris
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
David,
You are on the right track the rubber things are conductors, when I worked
for a cellphone company we had a heck of a time with them. The trade/common
name of the connectors slip my mind at the moment. However what you need to
do is take the LCD back apart pull the rubber contact strips off and then
clean the rubber and the LCD and the PCB where the rubber contacts with some
rubbing alcohol.
What we found with the cell phones is that moisture gets into the connectors
which causes higher resistance. The company finally changed the LCD contacts
to gold coated finger contacts to eliminate this problem, of course this
caused it's own set of problems...
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David A.
Leonard
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS LCD?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David A. Leonard"
<dleonar1@maine.rr.com>
I have an LCD display question.
I was given a 1995 Garmin Meridian XL GPS, that hadn't run in a few years.
I cleaned it up and put new batteries in. It would boot, but the LCD
display was missing a bunch of its lines, so the display is unreadable.
I sez Hmmmmm, and took it apart and tried cleaning the pin connector
connecting the two boards halfs with De-oxit. No dice, no better.
I tried taking the LCD display off, and pulling the frame off and the glass
which is the display right off. There are a whole bunch of contacts on the
board, like several hundred on the top, and maybe half as many on the
bottom. Then there are flexible rubber strips, white with a black center
(carbon conductor sandwiched in neoprene maybe?) section that sit on the
board contacts, and also the other side of them sit on the glass of the LCD
screen. They run the horizontal length of the glass and contacts, top and
bottom, they are about 3" x 3/16 x 1/4" tall, with the black conductor
section contacting the glass and the board. I am assuming these are the
conductors to carry the juice to the screen to display the information . I
cleaned the edges of them but no dice. One of the strips was half unglued
from the glass..me being me I pulled it all the way off...Put the whole
mess back together....
So anyway, I still have the middle of the display displaying, and very
faint information on the outer thirds of the screen, the screen seems to be
divided vertically, with the middle third almost okay, the edges barely
visible.
Is there a conductive glue or paste used for the strip connections?
Do the glass units themselves fail over time..I always assume nothing is
wrong and it is usually a connection with most stuff..but I really don't
know.
Anyone know how these things work?
I realize that $99 gets me a new unit, I have a few spares around anyway,
but that isn't the point...I should be able to fix it and screw It to some
vehicle or other!
I do like technology the fits well in the trashcan and is nicely
replaceable, so maybe this is the thing..
Thanks, Dave Leonard
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Voltage regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
-------------------------------------------------------
>I'm new to this list. I'm busy refitting a Zenair CH-300 with a Lycoming
>engine, and I want to improve upon the electrical system a little. I have an
>old alternator (Chrysler I think) and one of those old vibrating Voltage
>Regulators. I see that B&C has some really nice options, but a little out of
>my budget. I wonder if anyone can suggest an automotive equivalent that
>could do over voltage protection, and maybe under voltage warning light?
>Solid state of course!
>
>Thanks for any help
>Chris
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Lehman" <lehmans@sympatico.ca>
>
>Chris,
>
>I suggest you consider the generic Ford type regulator: VR-166. It's quite
>universally available and easily mounted on the firewall. It's amazingly
>inexpensive in the US but costs about $50 cdn in Canada.
Ebay has them for $10 at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7921051773&category=33577&sspagename=WDVW
This company offers them for $5 at:
http://www.sherco-auto.com/nov03.pdf
They're offered by virtually EVERY autoparts store for 10-25 dollars.
Exemplar wiring is illustrated in Figure Z-23 of
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
> The VR-166X is
>Carquest's 'heavy duty' version with over voltage indication (flashing
>charge light for over voltage; steady charge light for under voltage).
Carquest's website even features this style regulator as
an exemplar voltage regulator product at:
http://www.carquest.com/product/ec/voltage_regulators.html
I tried to look up the VR166x but their part number
lookup engine isn't working on the website.
> You
>could also put a zener diode on the load side of a 5 Amp circuit breaker to
>remove power from the regulator if an over voltage event occurs.
This is a scheme certified on some early Grumman products but
not recommended for use with breakers. It's sorta okay with fuses
(as originally certified) because of the much faster response to
overload by fuses. Also, be sure to use only GLASS 1N4745A zeners -
the plastic ones often blow open. Be aware too that these are a one-time
ov protection device . . . they're EXPECTED to short and pop the fuse.
The more robust approach uses crowbar ov protection
described in chapter 6 of the AeroElectric Connection and in
Figure Z-23 of AeroElectric Connection appendix Z cited above
You can go the DIY project route as described in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
or offered pre-assembled by B&C and offered as their OVM-14
crowbar overvoltage module at:
http://bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?26X358218
If you want all the functionality offered by the B&C LR3
regulator, you'll also want ACTIVE notification of low voltage
as a DIY project at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/lvwarn/LVWarn-ABMM.html
or offered pre-assembled at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9005/9005.html
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
Bob . . .
---
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Contacts for MS347x series connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>Comments/Questions: What pins should be used in a MS3471W8-33S (Aero 9903)
>connector? Thanks,
>Glenn Studevant
Depends on wire gage for the particular pin location. See
http://www.ittcannon.com/media/pdf/catalogs/PV_TBF.pdf
for description of the connector including various inserts
and the contact that fit them.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Voltage regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Horsten" <airplanes@sympatico.ca>
Bob,
Thanks for the most comprehensive answers to my questions. I have the book,
but I've been focusing on the Z-11 and Z-13 schematics and failed to notice
the Z-23. This sure makes life much easier! Seems I need to spend some time
with the Aeroelectric book.
Thanks very much again,
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Voltage regulator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
-------------------------------------------------------
>I'm new to this list. I'm busy refitting a Zenair CH-300 with a
>Lycoming engine, and I want to improve upon the electrical system a
>little. I have an old alternator (Chrysler I think) and one of those
>old vibrating Voltage Regulators. I see that B&C has some really nice
>options, but a little out of my budget. I wonder if anyone can suggest
>an automotive equivalent that could do over voltage protection, and maybe
under voltage warning light?
>Solid state of course!
>
>Thanks for any help
>Chris
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Lehman"
>--> <lehmans@sympatico.ca>
>
>Chris,
>
>I suggest you consider the generic Ford type regulator: VR-166. It's
>quite universally available and easily mounted on the firewall. It's
>amazingly inexpensive in the US but costs about $50 cdn in Canada.
Ebay has them for $10 at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=792105177
3&category=33577&sspagename=WDVW
This company offers them for $5 at:
http://www.sherco-auto.com/nov03.pdf
They're offered by virtually EVERY autoparts store for 10-25 dollars.
Exemplar wiring is illustrated in Figure Z-23 of
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|