Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:33 AM - Radio noise capacitor (Wayne Williams)
2. 04:25 PM - Re: Garmin GPS LCD? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Radio noise capacitor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>
I have some radio noise and think it is coming from my alternator (B&C
40amp)or electronic ignition (Laser). Someone suggested a noise capacitor on
the alternator. Any ideas where to get something like that and whether it is
likely to help? Thanks!
Wayne
RV8A: Flying
RV9A; building
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:04 AM 9/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>David,
>
>You are on the right track the rubber things are conductors, when I worked
>for a cellphone company we had a heck of a time with them. The trade/common
>name of the connectors slip my mind at the moment.
Do a google search on [ "zebra strips" connector lcd ] and you'll
get a good data dump on this product. It's a very common technology
for taking signals off the etched circuit board and onto the tiny
contact pads of an LCD assembly . . .
> However what you need to
>do is take the LCD back apart pull the rubber contact strips off and then
>clean the rubber and the LCD and the PCB where the rubber contacts with some
>rubbing alcohol.
Drugstore rubbing alcohol contains water and sometimes other
ingredients to enhance its performance on the body . . . Here's
a clip from one of the 'net-hits above on the topic.
---------------------- beginning of excerpt -----------------------------
A number of years ago I bought a Fluke 87 multimeter for
a special purpose. With the job completed it sat around
for a number of years. Now, I would like to use it again,
but the display has problems. Some of the number segments
don't function, some are sort of random.
Is there anything I can do to cure this?
From: BFoelsch
Subject: Re: Fluke 87 Display Flakey
Yup - Probably - Just this minute was working on a couple. Mine were
purchased new in 1989, worked until 2 or 3 years ago.
It is not a difficult repair if you are generally acquainted with electronic
equipment.
The LCD display is connected to the circuitry by some elastomeric (rubbery)
ribbons with conductive strips in them. Apparently the connections
deteriorate after some time.
I pulled my 87s apart, removed the PCB assembly, removed the phillips headed
screw from the back of the PCB assembly and carefully removed the back and
front shields. The display comes off with the front shield. Go easy, there
is a litle connector on the left for the backlight.
Once apart, the contacts on the PCB will be apparent, clean them up as
delicately as possible. I just rubbed them very lightly with a cloth with a
little isopropyl alcohol. If you want, you can put it back together and try
it at this point. If there is no change, proceed on!
Looking at the display, you will see that there is a front bezel that snaps
off. Once the bezel is removed, the LCD is visible and may be lifted out of
the frame. In all likelihood the two elastomeric strips will be stuck to it,
they look like pieces of eraser with a gray layer in the middle. Pull them
off the display to expose the contacts, which are just conductive films,
barely visible, on the edges of the LCD. CAREFULLY clean the contacts on the
edges edges of the LCD (I again used Isopropyl Alcohol) being careful not to
let the solvent travel off of the contacts into the display proper. Dry
thoroughly with a Q-Tip or lint-free rag. Then, clean the edges of the
elastomeric strips, again carefully. Dry, and re-assemble, being sure to
properly connect the backlight. The whole assembly snaps into place on the
PCB, if it doesn't snap fully into place you will see only a partial
display, just like the problem you are trying to cure.
That should do it. I just this evening worked on a few of them, all
successfully. I was going to send them back to Fluke, but, being an obsolete
product the quoted price was very high. They offered me a trade in against a
new 189, but I figured I would try to fix the 87s because I had absolutely
nothing to lose. So far, so good.
---------------- end of excerpt ----------------------------------
A pure alcohol that evaporates and leaves no residue is preferable.
I have a benchtop digital multimeter that needs the treatment about
every 2-3 years. I use a commercial, total evaporation cleaner . . .
it's a kind of Freon I think. In any case, like isopropyl alcohol it's
not antagonistic to plastics.
Bob . . .
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