Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:08 AM - Mic and Headphone Wiring (Clinchy, Dave)
2. 07:39 AM - Coax Strippers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:55 AM - Re: Mic and Headphone Wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:58 AM - Hat switch (echristley@nc.rr.com)
5. 08:34 AM - Re: Hat switch (Dave)
6. 08:53 AM - Fw: Alternator problems (WRBYARS@aol.com)
7. 09:00 AM - Re: Coax Strippers (Dan Checkoway)
8. 09:00 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator problems (AI Nut)
9. 09:00 AM - Re: Hat switch (Gerry Holland)
10. 09:03 AM - Removing D-sub pins (Bill Schertz)
11. 09:33 AM - Re: Coax Strippers (dsvs@comcast.net)
12. 09:40 AM - PTT location thoughts (Brian Lloyd)
13. 09:45 AM - Re: Removing D-sub pins (Walter Tondu)
14. 09:50 AM - Re: Hat switch (echristley@nc.rr.com)
15. 10:18 AM - Re: Removing D-sub pins (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 10:30 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator problems (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 11:25 AM - Re: Removing D-sub pins (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 11:25 AM - Re: Coax Strippers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 11:38 AM - Re: Removing D-sub pins (Werner Schneider)
20. 01:16 PM - Re: Coax Strippers (WRBYARS@aol.com)
21. 01:52 PM - Re: Coax Strippers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 02:40 PM - Re: Hat switch (echristley@nc.rr.com)
23. 02:52 PM - Re: Coax Strippers (Chris Krieg)
24. 03:42 PM - Re: Firewall Penetrations-summary as of Sep 2004 (was Re: (Ken)
25. 04:26 PM - Re: Slobovia Outernational Flyin Invitation (Charlie England)
26. 04:27 PM - Re: Firewall Penetrations-summary as of Sep 2004 (was Re: (thomas a. sargent)
27. 05:53 PM - Re: Slobovia Outernational Flyin Invitation (BobsV35B@aol.com)
28. 06:46 PM - Re: Hat switch (Richard Riley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Mic and Headphone Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd@losrios.edu>
Hi All,
Should the mic and headphone wiring from the intercom to the jacks be in
shielded cable? If so, can both the mic and headphone wires be in the
same cable or should they each have their own shielded cable?
The manual for my SL-30 nav/com shows separate shielded cable for the
mic and headphone from the com to the intercom, but the instructions for
my Flightcom 403 intercom do not show any shielded cable for the mic or
headphone from intercom to jacks.
Dave Clinchy
RV 7
Sacramento, CA
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Here's the piece I promised a couple of weeks ago on coax strippers.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Coax_Stripper/coaxstrip.html
Bob . . .
---
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Mic and Headphone Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:07 AM 9/28/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd@losrios.edu>
>
>Hi All,
>
>
>Should the mic and headphone wiring from the intercom to the jacks be in
>shielded cable?
Maybe
> If so, can both the mic and headphone wires be in the
>same cable
yes
> or should they each have their own shielded cable?
your choice.
>The manual for my SL-30 nav/com shows separate shielded cable for the
>mic and headphone from the com to the intercom, but the instructions for
>my Flightcom 403 intercom do not show any shielded cable for the mic or
>headphone from intercom to jacks.
Your observation illustrates perfectly the point I was trying
to get Mr. Richter to discuss about shielding in our recent
non-discussion.
Shielding has a very narrow range of benefits . . . and 99%
of the time, is NOT necessary for microphone and headset wiring.
It doesn't HURT to use shielded wire . . . particularly if one
can take advantage of the shield's presence in the cable as
a ground return for signals as illustrated in the wiring example
you can view in the last several pages of:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
Here I illustrate shielded wire with (gasp!) shields connected
at both ends. Now, the fact that all the conductors within
are twisted . . . the most likely noise coupling mode (magnetic)
is already mitigated . . . the shield is not necessary, only
convenient. I happen to have 15,000 feet of shielded, twisted
trio that substitutes nicely for a twisted quad and no shield.
It's useful to stock one style of wire as opposed to two because
one readily substitutes for the other when a shield is not needed
but quad will not substitute for the shielded trio when a shield
is needed. A two-for-the-price-of-one benefit.
In a pinch, one can fabricate your own twisted pairs, trios,
quads, etc exactly as Greg suggested in his publication. I've
done this many times and it's an excellent alternative to
buying a spool of manufactured wire when all you need is 4 or
5 feet.
So, ALL of the wiring diagrams you've cited are correct.
The presence of lack of shielding in this particular case
is a non-issue. If you don't have shielded wire, take 4-5
strands of 22AWG about 8' long and chuck one end up in a
drill motor. Put other ends in vice and keep them tight while
you run the motor to put about 1 to 1-1/2 turns per inch of
twist in them.
Be very careful when you release the bundle . . . keep the bundle
from curling up like a snake while the tension unwinds.
If it gets away from you, you'll have a pile of tangled wire.
After the tension is relaxed, you'll have a nice twisted bundle
of wires that may be easily rung-out for connection to appropriate
pins and jacks. If you have 5 colors, that's fine too but I wouldn't
put of the job for a minute to wait for an order of colored
wire to come in. Electrons are color blind.
Bob . . .
---
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
I've finally carved a control stick handle that I'm
satisfied with, and now I want to mount a trim
control and PTT button on it. I'd like a 4-way hat
switch for the trim control. For the PTT I'd like a
rubber type cover so that the momentary switch just
looks like a black wart in the appropriate place.
AS has the latter here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pusbutswitch.php
But I can't find the former.
What would be a good source for these type switches?
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@bestnetpc.com>
Van's has the "coolie hat" switch.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident1094552477-164-132&browseairframe&productgrip-switches
----- Original Message -----
From: echristley@nc.rr.com
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2004 10:57 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Hat switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
I've finally carved a control stick handle that I'm
satisfied with, and now I want to mount a trim
control and PTT button on it. I'd like a 4-way hat
switch for the trim control. For the PTT I'd like a
rubber type cover so that the momentary switch just
looks like a black wart in the appropriate place.
AS has the latter here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pusbutswitch.php
But I can't find the former.
What would be a good source for these type switches?
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fwd: Alternator problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
From: WRBYARS@aol.com
Subject: Alternator problems
-------------------------------1096385556
HELP HELP HELP
I've got a problem with my battery not staying charged while in flight, and
I know that with all the brain power on the list you guys will be able to
solve it for me.
Situation:
Hiachi ( not Hitachi ) LT-150-62 alternator, on a Lycoming 0290-D engine,
with note in log book stating alternator has internal regulator.
Concord battery about a year old, that is kept on a voltage limiting trickle
charger when not being flown for a while, with no prior problems.
1--I've charged the battery and it has 12.87 volts.
2--All the wiring, c/b's and switches have been checked B/T the battery and
alternator and are OK.
2a--There is a 35A Alternator breaker/switch and a 3A Field breaker/switch
on the panel with on/off positions.
3--With the master switch on, and the ALT. and FIELD switches at the on
position, there is 12.87 volts to the alternator terminals.
4--Volt meter connected at battery indicating 12.87, engine not running;
when engine is running, at various RPM's, with the ALT and FIELD switches set
to ON, it still reads 12.87, with no indication of charge.
Questions;
1--What should the voltmeter be reading with the engine running, if the
alternator is performing properly?
2--What do the Alternator and Field breaker/switches provide and should they
be left on at all times?
3--Will it harm the alternator if these breaker/switches are cycled when the
engine is running w/ the system charging?
4--Is it necessary/advisable to have these breaker/switches, or would it be
better to have only breakers?
5--Does anyone have information on the Hiachi alternator, where it is sold
or a web site, or something, as I can't find ANY information about it.
My starter is also the same manufacturer so I need to contact someone and
get info on the product.
All answers and comments will be greatly appreciated, as I'm sitting on the
ground until things are fixed.
Thanks
Bill
-------------------------------1096385556
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" nameGENERATOR>
<BODY idrole_body style"FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20Arial"
bottomMargin7 leftMargin7 topMargin7 rightMargin7><FONT idrole_document
faceArial color#000000 size4>
<EM>HELP HELP HELP
</EM>
<EM></EM>
I've got a problem with my battery not staying
charged while in flight,and I know that with all the brain power on the
list you guys will be able to solve it for me.
Situation:
Hiachi ( not Hitachi ) LT-150-62 alternator, on a
Lycoming 0290-D engine,with note in log book stating alternator has
internal regulator.
Concord battery about a year old, that is kept on
a voltage limiting trickle charger when not being flown for a while, with no
prior problems.
1--I've charged the battery and it has 12.87
volts.
2--All the wiring, c/b's and switches have been checked=20B/T
the battery and alternator and are OK.
2a--There is a 35A <EM>Alternator</EM>
breaker/switch and a 3A <EM>Field</EM> breaker/switch on
the panel with on/off positions.
3--With the master switch on, and the ALT. and FIELD switches
at the on position,there is 12.87 volts to the alternator
terminals.
4--Volt meter connected at battery indicating 12.87, engine
not running; when engine is running, at various RPM's, with the ALT and
FIELD switches set to ON, it still reads 12.87, with no indication of
charge.
Questions;
1--What should the voltmeter be reading with the engine
running,if the alternator is performing properly?
2--What do the Alternator and Field breaker/switches provide
and should they be left on at all times?
3--Will it harm the alternator if
thesebreaker/switches are cycled when the engine is running w/ the system
charging?
4--Is itnecessary/advisableto have these
breaker/switches, or would it be better to have only breakers?
5--Does anyone have information on the Hiachi
alternator, where it is sold or a web site, or something, as I
can't find ANY information about it.
My starter is also the same manufacturer so I need to contact
someone and get info on the product.
All answers and comments will be <EM>greatly
appreciated</EM>, asI'm sitting on the ground until things
are fixed.
Thanks
Bill
<FONT
size5><EM></EM>
-------------------------------1096385556--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Bob,
You the man. I just bought one of the 3-blade rotary strippers (one of the
few strippers my wife approves of in my life) for $10.50 on ebay. My plane
is complete already but I know there will be more RG400 stripping in my
future on the next planes.
FYI for others...don't worry, I didn't steal the last one. Gilchrist
Electric is selling a whole bunch of 'em for $10.50 (Buy It Now price).
For example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5722557140
Thanks again Bob,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Coax Strippers
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> Here's the piece I promised a couple of weeks ago on coax strippers.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Coax_Stripper/coaxstrip.html
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "AI Nut" <ainut@earthlink.net>
Alternators should be putting out about 13.7 vdc while in charging mode. I
suggest you take if off and go to a NAPA auto parts dealer and ask them to
check it for you. Won't cost anything. Also, check the belt slack (yeah, I
know, simple stuff. But rule out the simple before going to the more
difficult.)
If it is the alternator, most of them can be rebuilt for little or nothing.
Once rebuilt, take it to an a&p for prayer and blessing.
Some alternators can be safely run without a load; others can't. Don't know
about yours.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WRBYARS@aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fwd: Alternator problems
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
>
>
> From: WRBYARS@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 11:32:36 EDT
> Subject: Alternator problems
> To: luscombe-silvaire@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> -------------------------------1096385556
>
> HELP HELP HELP
>
> I've got a problem with my battery not staying charged while in flight,
and
> I know that with all the brain power on the list you guys will be able to
> solve it for me.
>
> Situation:
> Hiachi ( not Hitachi ) LT-150-62 alternator, on a Lycoming 0290-D engine,
> with note in log book stating alternator has internal regulator.
> Concord battery about a year old, that is kept on a voltage limiting
trickle
> charger when not being flown for a while, with no prior problems.
>
> 1--I've charged the battery and it has 12.87 volts.
>
> 2--All the wiring, c/b's and switches have been checked B/T the battery
and
> alternator and are OK.
> 2a--There is a 35A Alternator breaker/switch and a 3A Field
breaker/switch
> on the panel with on/off positions.
>
> 3--With the master switch on, and the ALT. and FIELD switches at the on
> position, there is 12.87 volts to the alternator terminals.
>
> 4--Volt meter connected at battery indicating 12.87, engine not running;
> when engine is running, at various RPM's, with the ALT and FIELD switches
set
> to ON, it still reads 12.87, with no indication of charge.
>
> Questions;
> 1--What should the voltmeter be reading with the engine running, if the
> alternator is performing properly?
>
> 2--What do the Alternator and Field breaker/switches provide and should
they
> be left on at all times?
>
> 3--Will it harm the alternator if these breaker/switches are cycled when
the
> engine is running w/ the system charging?
>
> 4--Is it necessary/advisable to have these breaker/switches, or would it
be
> better to have only breakers?
>
> 5--Does anyone have information on the Hiachi alternator, where it is
sold
> or a web site, or something, as I can't find ANY information about it.
> My starter is also the same manufacturer so I need to contact someone and
> get info on the product.
>
> All answers and comments will be greatly appreciated, as I'm sitting on
the
> ground until things are fixed.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
>
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
>
> AS has the latter here:
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pusbutswitch.php
That Sx Unit is probably far too large and has an extreme pressure required
to press to make. It's about W 1.25" X L 2.0" and about 3/4" thick. The
Rubber cover that screws over the Push button is 3/4" diameter.
I'm sure you'll find a suitable mini Press Button that is easy to mount and
capable of sustained operation.
The Infinity sticks have suitable buttons or a trigger switch. That might be
a starting point for ideas and supply.
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Panel near completion.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Removing D-sub pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Schertz" <Wschertz@ispwest.com>
Bob,
I purchased the d-sub pins and crimper from B&C, and also a small red&white pin
remover. I have not gotten to that stage of installing pins yet, but soon.
My immediate question relates to how to use the pin remover, since I need to remove
a connector to get some wires through a conduit. I *thought* that there was
a description on your web site, but I'll be darned if I can find it. I don't
want to damage something if I can get proper instructions.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: dsvs@comcast.net
Bob,
Thanks for the review. When I asked for info I never thought you would go buy
another tool. I hope you actually have some use for it. I have followed suite
and bought one. Thanks again for the review and added effort. Don
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
> Here's the piece I promised a couple of weeks ago on coax strippers.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Coax_Stripper/coaxstrip.html
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ---
>
>
>
>
>
>
Bob,
Thanks for the review. When I asked for info I never thought you would go buy another
tool. I hope you actually have some use for it. I have followed suite and
bought one. Thanks again for the review and added effort. Don
-------------- Original message --------------
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<B.NUCKOLLS@COX.NET>
Here's the piece I promised a couple of weeks ago on coax strippers.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Coax_Stripper/coaxstrip.html
Bob . . .
---
p://www.matronics.com/chat
s.com/contribution
Message 12
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| Subject: | PTT location thoughts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
In seeing the discussion of PTT location on the stick, I must admit I
have become rather fond of the military approach of having the PTT on
the throttle. I have lived with an aircraft so configured for many
years and I find I like that approach a lot. I plan to use this on
subsequent aircraft.
Not to mention that it leaves the stick open to retain the switch and
use it for ordinance release. ;-)
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Removing D-sub pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 09/28 9:03, Bill Schertz wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Schertz" <Wschertz@ispwest.com>
>
> Bob,
> I purchased the d-sub pins and crimper from B&C, and also a small red&white
pin remover. I have not gotten to that stage of installing pins yet, but soon.
>
> My immediate question relates to how to use the pin remover, since I need to
remove a connector to get some wires through a conduit. I *thought* that there
was a description on your web site, but I'll be darned if I can find it. I don't
want to damage something if I can get proper instructions.
Along the same lines, I need to remove some bent pins from
a High Density D-sub connector. The standard size removal tool
will not work, it's just to big in diameter. Where can I
find the proper tool and pins to replace the bent pins? Also
will the B&C crimper work on the smaller HD pins? Doesn't
look like it but I just want to confirm if I will need another
crimper as well.
Thanks.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Hat switch
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry
Holland
> <gnholland@onetel.com>
>
> >
> > AS has the latter here:
> >
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pusbutswitch.php
>
> That Sx Unit is probably far too large and has an
extreme pressure
> requiredto press to make. It's about W 1.25" X L
2.0" and about
> 3/4" thick. The
> Rubber cover that screws over the Push button is
3/4" diameter.
>
Aaah. Quite right you are sir. I'd like to amend
my previous post to say that I don't have a good
candidate for either switch. But the rubber cover
is what I'm looking for.
> The Infinity sticks have suitable buttons or a
trigger switch. That
> might be
> a starting point for ideas and supply.
I've been able to find the sticks, but haven't been
able to find a way to order parts.
Back to searching.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Removing D-sub pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:03 AM 9/28/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Schertz" <Wschertz@ispwest.com>
>
>Bob,
>I purchased the d-sub pins and crimper from B&C, and also a small
>red&white pin remover. I have not gotten to that stage of installing pins
>yet, but soon.
>
>My immediate question relates to how to use the pin remover, since I need
>to remove a connector to get some wires through a conduit. I *thought*
>that there was a description on your web site, but I'll be darned if I can
>find it. I don't want to damage something if I can get proper instructions.
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/dse-1.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/dse-1a.jpg
Get some extra connectors and pins and play with this a bit. Even
with detailed written instructions, there's some experience involved
with using this tool proficiently. Practice on some "training"
connectors before you go to work on the airplane. Note that there's
a little "treaded" groove on the handle of the tool. After the tool
is seated in the connector, press the wire down into the groove with
your thumb so that tugging on wire and tool brings them out together.
Bob . . .
---
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:02 AM 9/28/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "AI Nut" <ainut@earthlink.net>
>
>Alternators should be putting out about 13.7 vdc while in charging mode. I
>suggest you take if off and go to a NAPA auto parts dealer and ask them to
>check it for you. Won't cost anything. Also, check the belt slack (yeah, I
>know, simple stuff. But rule out the simple before going to the more
>difficult.)
>
>If it is the alternator, most of them can be rebuilt for little or nothing.
>Once rebuilt, take it to an a&p for prayer and blessing.
>
>Some alternators can be safely run without a load; others can't. Don't know
>about yours.
Good reply.
I'll add further that with the wiring described it is possible to
disconnect the alternator's B-lead while the alternator is running
and perhaps under significant load. This can produce the alternator
load-dump phenomenon that has given Figure Z-24 the name
"alternator killer". We'll be revising Z-24 to add the appropriate
transient voltage suppressor with Rev 11. We'll post the info
before Rev 11 goes to press.
It's a strong possibility that Bill's alternator is at risk
from the same phenomenon in spite of the fact that he has not
wired per Figure Z-24. In fact, given that the alternator probably
DOES NOT shut off when the 3A "field" breaker is opened, its
a sure bet that the alternator will experience some form of load-dump
event when the 35A breaker is opened.
I'll bet his alternator will test bad. Further, unless he
revises his wiring -AND- operating procedures to accomodate the
special needs of internally regulated alternators, he's going
to kill the replacement alternator too.
Bill, until the final configuration is defined and published,
I recommend you NEVER open the 35A breaker. Turn the "field"
breaker on after the airplane is running. You'll probably find
that opening the 3A breaker does not shut the alternator off
once it's running. Leave both alternator switches on until
after the engine is shut down.
Do you have any form of ov protection on this alternator?
Bob . . .
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <WRBYARS@aol.com>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fwd: Alternator problems
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
> >
> >
> > From: WRBYARS@aol.com
> > Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 11:32:36 EDT
> > Subject: Alternator problems
> > To: luscombe-silvaire@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------1096385556
> >
> > HELP HELP HELP
> >
> > I've got a problem with my battery not staying charged while in flight,
>and
> > I know that with all the brain power on the list you guys will be able to
> > solve it for me.
> >
> > Situation:
> > Hiachi ( not Hitachi ) LT-150-62 alternator, on a Lycoming 0290-D engine,
> > with note in log book stating alternator has internal regulator.
> > Concord battery about a year old, that is kept on a voltage limiting
>trickle
> > charger when not being flown for a while, with no prior problems.
> >
> > 1--I've charged the battery and it has 12.87 volts.
> >
> > 2--All the wiring, c/b's and switches have been checked B/T the battery
>and
> > alternator and are OK.
> > 2a--There is a 35A Alternator breaker/switch and a 3A Field
>breaker/switch
> > on the panel with on/off positions.
> >
> > 3--With the master switch on, and the ALT. and FIELD switches at the on
> > position, there is 12.87 volts to the alternator terminals.
> >
> > 4--Volt meter connected at battery indicating 12.87, engine not running;
> > when engine is running, at various RPM's, with the ALT and FIELD switches
>set
> > to ON, it still reads 12.87, with no indication of charge.
> >
> > Questions;
> > 1--What should the voltmeter be reading with the engine running, if the
> > alternator is performing properly?
> >
> > 2--What do the Alternator and Field breaker/switches provide and should
>they
> > be left on at all times?
> >
> > 3--Will it harm the alternator if these breaker/switches are cycled when
>the
> > engine is running w/ the system charging?
> >
> > 4--Is it necessary/advisable to have these breaker/switches, or would it
>be
> > better to have only breakers?
> >
> > 5--Does anyone have information on the Hiachi alternator, where it is
>sold
> > or a web site, or something, as I can't find ANY information about it.
> > My starter is also the same manufacturer so I need to contact someone and
> > get info on the product.
> >
> > All answers and comments will be greatly appreciated, as I'm sitting on
>the
> > ground until things are fixed.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>
>---
>Version: 6.0.769 / Virus Database: 516 - Release Date: 9/24/2004
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------------------
< Throughout history, poverty is the normal condition >
< of man. Advances which permit this norm to be >
< exceeded -- here and there, now and then -- are the >
< work of an extremely small minority, frequently >
< despised, often condemned, and almost always opposed >
< by all right-thinking people. Whenever this tiny >
< minority is kept from creating, or (as sometimes >
< happens) is driven out of a society, the people >
< then slip back into abject poverty. >
< >
< This is known as "bad luck". >
< -Lazarus Long- >
<------------------------------------------------------>
http://www.aeroelectric.com
---
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Removing D-sub pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:45 PM 9/28/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
>On 09/28 9:03, Bill Schertz wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Schertz"
> <Wschertz@ispwest.com>
> >
> > Bob,
> > I purchased the d-sub pins and crimper from B&C, and also a small
> red&white pin remover. I have not gotten to that stage of installing pins
> yet, but soon.
> >
> > My immediate question relates to how to use the pin remover, since I
> need to remove a connector to get some wires through a conduit. I
> *thought* that there was a description on your web site, but I'll be
> darned if I can find it. I don't want to damage something if I can get
> proper instructions.
>
>Along the same lines, I need to remove some bent pins from
>a High Density D-sub connector. The standard size removal tool
>will not work, it's just to big in diameter. Where can I
>find the proper tool and pins to replace the bent pins?
Do a google search on "extraction" and "91067-1" you should
get a ton of hits.
> Also
>will the B&C crimper work on the smaller HD pins? Doesn't
>look like it but I just want to confirm if I will need another
>crimper as well.
I've tried it an it seems to work fine.
Bob . . .
---
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:33 PM 9/28/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: dsvs@comcast.net
>
>Bob,
>Thanks for the review. When I asked for info I never thought you would go
>buy another tool. I hope you actually have some use for it. I have
>followed suite and bought one. Thanks again for the review and added
>effort. Don
I buy lots of things I don't personally need. Quite often just
to use it, take it apart, etc. Education isn't cheap. I may
order a bunch of these and add them to the goodies I give
away at my weekend seminar doorprize drawings.
Bob . . .
---
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Removing D-sub pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Removing D-sub pins
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> Along the same lines, I need to remove some bent pins from
> a High Density D-sub connector. The standard size removal tool
> will not work, it's just to big in diameter. Where can I
> find the proper tool and pins to replace the bent pins? Also
Tool: with interchangeable tips AMP P/N 91285-1
pins: your friendly avionics shop when you need only one or two
> will the B&C crimper work on the smaller HD pins?
It does, I did my Garmin Audiopanel without any problems
>
> Thanks.
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
Where can these be purchased?
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:15 PM 9/28/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
>
>Where can these be purchased?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4693&item=5722575929
Bob . . .
---
Message 22
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry
Holland
> <gnholland@onetel.com>
>
>
>
> The Infinity sticks have suitable buttons or a
trigger switch. That
> might be
> a starting point for ideas and supply.
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
Infinity has the coolie (I've now seen it spelled 3
different ways) listed as a "Custom 4-way" switch,
and I've not found anything similiar listed by the
usual suspects (AS, Newark, McMasterCarr, etc). The
price is only $15 (quite reasonable for a custom
switch), but it's listed as an additional switch. I
don't know if he will sell the switch seperately,
but I've sent an inquiry via email.
If that doesn't work...and I remain intent on a
toggle toggle type trim control...I'll have to save
my pennies (nickles and dimes), and fork over $46 to
Van's. A price that I find rather extravagant, even
for a custom switch (that's 1/3 the price of the
entire Infinity grip!!)
Thank you for the sources.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chris Krieg <rv6a@mac.com>
Thanks Dan, Just ordered one.
Chris
On Sep 28, 2004, at 8:59 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Bob,
>
> You the man. I just bought one of the 3-blade rotary strippers (one
> of the
> few strippers my wife approves of in my life) for $10.50 on ebay. My
> plane
> is complete already but I know there will be more RG400 stripping in my
> future on the next planes.
>
> FYI for others...don't worry, I didn't steal the last one. Gilchrist
> Electric is selling a whole bunch of 'em for $10.50 (Buy It Now price).
>
> For example:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5722557140
>
> Thanks again Bob,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Coax Strippers
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>>
>> Here's the piece I promised a couple of weeks ago on coax strippers.
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Coax_Stripper/coaxstrip.html
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: ll Penetrations-summary as of Sep 2004 (was Re: AeroElectric-List: |
stainless towel bar firewall penetrations
clamav-milter version 0.80c
on juliet.albedo.net
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Thank you to all those who responded. I put the propane torch to a
silicone based firestop
http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=1&subcatid=3&prodhdrid=298
and also some red rtv. As I suspected they both responded about the
same. There was a slight tendency to support a flame for a second or two
when the torch was removed early in the test. Both substances quickly
formed a white ash surface layer that was indeed resistant to burn
through but any vibration caused it to flake off which seemed less than
ideal for sealing a firewall. I don't have access to the standards but
the silicone fire stops all seem to quote the same ASTM and UL standard
so I'm guessing they are all similar.
I also tested some old black DuxSeal electrical putty that I had. Liquid
oozed out of it and it did continue to burn for about 5 sec after the
torch was removed so I guess the stuff I tested is not "fire putty".
Once it was dried out after almost a minute it was very resistant to
burn through but by then it had lost it's ability to stick to metal.
Guess I'll try to get some of that itumescent stuff. At least one of
those seems to be latex based but I don't think any are silicone based.
Ken
David Carter wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>Ken, some more details are in the 6 e-mails cut & pasted at the bottom of
>this. It is all the info I've "archived".
>
>David
>
>
snip
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Slobovia Outernational Flyin Invitation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 9/21/04 1:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
>ceengland@bellsouth.net writes:
>
>We usually see a pretty good mix from ultralite types antique/classic to an
>SX-300. Several of the residents are former airshow circuit pilots, so you
>never know who will show up.
>
>
>Good Afternoon Charlie,
>
>I would love to drop in one of these years, but I absolutely can't make it
>this year.
>
>I did look at the Air Nav page and note the following under airport
>facilities:
>
> "Lights: RDO REQ"
>
>Does that mean that you have to have radio to get the lights lit, or do you
>require that all aircraft have a radio to use the field?
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>AKA
>Bob Siegfried
>Ancient Aviator
>Stearman N3977A
>Brookeridge Airpark LL22
>Downers Grove, IL 60516
>630 985-8502
>
Hi Bob,
Sorry for the delay in replying; I was doing the vacation thing last
week & missed your post.
The RDO REQ means we have radio controlled lights. Shucks, several of
the planes based here don't even have radios & half the guys that live
here can't find their transmit buttons. ;-)
We try to do a couple of flyins each year, so maybe you can make it down
next spring.
Charlie
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: ll Penetrations-summary as of Sep 2004 (was Re: AeroElectric-List: |
stainless towel bar firewall penetrations
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
For what it's worth, I found "3M Fire Barrier CP25WB+ Caulk" on the 3M
web page, which seems to be the toughest stuff they have. About 20
minutes later I found a caulking tube of it on the shelf at Home Depot.
It was about $9.50.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Slobovia Outernational Flyin Invitation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 9/28/2004 6:26:58 PM Central Standard Time,
ceengland@bellsouth.net writes:
We try to do a couple of flyins each year, so maybe you can make it down
next spring.
Charlie
Good Evening Charlie,
Great! Maximum effort will be placed toward achieving that goal.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Do Not Archive
Message 28
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
The one from Infinity is literally from a computer joystick. I'll look for
my contact for them, they're about 50 cents and if you only want one
they'll probably send it to you for free. Or buy a Thrustmaster stick off
Ebay for $5 and take it apart - it's exactly the same one,
If you want the real thing, check here
http://www.ottoeng.com/control/togglemt_t4.htm
they tend to run $50-100. The distributor I like is these people
http://www.flamecorp.com/catalog.html
At 02:39 PM 9/28/04, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry
>Holland
> > <gnholland@onetel.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > The Infinity sticks have suitable buttons or a
>trigger switch. That
> > might be
> > a starting point for ideas and supply.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Gerry
> >
>
>Infinity has the coolie (I've now seen it spelled 3
>different ways) listed as a "Custom 4-way" switch,
>and I've not found anything similiar listed by the
>usual suspects (AS, Newark, McMasterCarr, etc). The
>price is only $15 (quite reasonable for a custom
>switch), but it's listed as an additional switch. I
>don't know if he will sell the switch seperately,
>but I've sent an inquiry via email.
>
>If that doesn't work...and I remain intent on a
>toggle toggle type trim control...I'll have to save
>my pennies (nickles and dimes), and fork over $46 to
>Van's. A price that I find rather extravagant, even
>for a custom switch (that's 1/3 the price of the
>entire Infinity grip!!)
>
>Thank you for the sources.
>
>
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