Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:06 AM - Re: Garmin & Garmin AT Installation Manuals (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 04:21 AM - Re: open barrel crimper for small wiresclamav-milter version 0.80con juliet.albedo.net (RV8ter@aol.com)
3. 05:52 AM - Re: Hat switch (echristley@nc.rr.com)
4. 06:01 AM - wiring fuel level sender (Olivier Le Carbonnier)
5. 07:00 AM - Re: Coax Strippers (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
6. 07:06 AM - The power of questions and networking. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: Coax Strippers (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
8. 08:48 AM - Re: Re: Coax Strippers (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
9. 09:07 AM - Re: wiring fuel level sender (Ed Anderson)
10. 10:20 AM - Re: Lead acid batteries: Vairiations on a theme. (Steve Sampson)
11. 10:49 AM - Re: Lead acid batteries: Vairiations on a theme. (Brian Lloyd)
12. 11:01 AM - 24 Volt batteries (Terry Watson)
13. 11:52 AM - Re: wiring fuel level sender (Olivier Le Carbonnier)
14. 12:14 PM - Re: Re: Unstable 20A generator system (CFrank@edony.com)
15. 12:14 PM - Re: 24 Volt batteries (Brian Lloyd)
16. 12:28 PM - Re: wiring fuel level sender (Matt Prather)
17. 02:22 PM - Re: 24 Volt batteries (Terry Watson)
18. 02:42 PM - Re: 24 Volt batteries (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
19. 05:06 PM - Re: Re: Coax Strippers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 05:12 PM - Re: Lamar Overvoltage Relay (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 05:23 PM - Re: Fuse block connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 06:05 PM - Re: Garmin & Garmin AT Installation Manuals (John Schroeder)
23. 06:36 PM - Cheap terminal crimper (glaesers)
24. 07:35 PM - Re: Cheap terminal crimper (Ken)
25. 07:50 PM - Re: Re: Unstable 20A generator system (william mills)
26. 08:35 PM - Re: Cheap terminal crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 09:32 PM - D-sub connectors current rating (Kingsley Hurst)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Garmin & Garmin AT Installation Manuals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Well hopefully not John, but like some of the other posts, I have the
entire directory archived for our future benefit.
Ahhhh the power of technology!
Oh and BTW, I received my HT-322 rotary coax stripper and I am very
pissed off. I pulled it out of the package, spun it around a piece of
coax, and in about 3 seconds I had a perfectly stripped 3 way coax. How
in the heck did I ever get by with out this little device. I stripped 4
times, made a couple tweaks to the blades, and now I am ready to tackle
all those connectors I got coming. Thanks Bob for this incredible find
and to the list that nudged me to buy one. A google search on the part
number will get you prices better than e-bay. Next trick is to find a
blade kit cause that braid is gonna kill those blades in short order.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
S8 Fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Schroeder
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin & Garmin AT Installation Manuals
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
<jschroeder@perigee.net>
Tim and all you other good folks who responded -
Many thanks for the huge response and the help. It works like a charm.
Hopefully, Garmin won't plug this loophole as well. Ahhhhh, the whiff of
monopoly!! :-))
Cheers,
John
--
==
==
==
==
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: open barrel crimper for small wiresclamav-milter |
version 0.80con juliet.albedo.net
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I'm not sure what your issue is here but I bought two of them this weekend. One
from Pep Boys for an outrageous $24 then found a better quality looking one
from Radio Shack for about $7. I made some connections, gave it the ol' SWAG
pull test and they all didn't budge at all so no soldering for me. I bought the
crimpable pins and housing also from Radio Shack. They sell various wire sized,
reasonably priced complete set blister packs of .090.
Lucky
In a message dated 10/3/2004 9:20:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
writes:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
>Would anyone know of a small open barrel crimper (butt cheek crimper). I
>have done a fair bit of looking and the best I have come up with is one
>for 16awg (1.5 metric) wire with a width inside the jaws of 0.11 inches.
>From the photos I suspect that is about the same as the one from B & C.
>
> I need a unit for 18 to 22 awg wire. After crimping, these finished
>connections are 0.065 inches wide, 0.80 inches wide, and 0.090 inches
>wide. I can get by with something that does 0.090 wide finished crimps
>but anything larger and the pins won't fit into the connectors. This is
>for the EFI connections on my auto engine conversion so I'll break out
>the soldering iron and start splicing rather than spend huge dollars.
>But it would certainly be worth a moderate expenditure for something
>that would do the job.
>
>thank you
>Ken
>
>
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ernest
Christley
>
> I walked out the store, exactly $21 lighter, and
took my new prize
> straight home and began the deconstructive
surgery. The hat switch
> lifted off in a nice, self-contained package.
>
> http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Pictures/Joystick.jpg
>
Oops. I put the wrong URL on that one. Try:
http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Pictures/HatSwitch.jpg
Message 4
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"RV7list" <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>, <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | wiring fuel level sender |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Olivier Le Carbonnier" <olcdlm@laposte.net>
i have flop tube in the first fuel tank bay and put the fuel level
sender in the second bay.
i plan wiring through a existing little hole in the main spar with
bushing.
wiring with AWG22.
could i have a connector at the wing root ? (connector between left
wing and fuselage).
or must this fuel sender wire to go from sender to gauge without any
connector or splicing ?
thank's for help, and sorry for my bad english.
Olivier LC
France
ICQ#: 82067330
sanglier@laposte.net
http://sangliervolant.chez.tiscali.fr Van's RV-8 n81939 wings
Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-8-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
You folks can throw rocks at me for not speaking up sooner. I haven't used
a knife on coax in 15 years - I thought those nifty little strippers were
common. Of course, I didn't know that y'all didn't know.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wings - finally)
>Oh and BTW, I received my HT-322 rotary coax stripper and I am very
pissed off. I pulled it out of the package, spun it around a piece of
coax, and in about 3 seconds I had a perfectly stripped 3 way coax. How
in the heck did I ever get by with out this little device.
Mike Stewart<
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | The power of questions and networking. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:02 AM 10/4/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Well hopefully not John, but like some of the other posts, I have the
>entire directory archived for our future benefit.
>
>Ahhhh the power of technology!
Ahhhh . . . the power of networking!
>Oh and BTW, I received my HT-322 rotary coax stripper and I am very
>pissed off. I pulled it out of the package, spun it around a piece of
>coax, and in about 3 seconds I had a perfectly stripped 3 way coax. How
>in the heck did I ever get by with out this little device. I stripped 4
>times, made a couple tweaks to the blades, and now I am ready to tackle
>all those connectors I got coming. Thanks Bob for this incredible find
>and to the list that nudged me to buy one.
These things have been around for over 30 years that I can think
of . . . before that, folks "in the business" made their own
with the help of some guy down in the machine shop that wasn't
adverse to working "a government job". A couple of hunks of phenolic,
some Xacto knife blades and perhaps several hours at the hands
of a craftsman would produce what we called "shop aids". We
could justify two hours of that machinist's time to save $time$
in assembly and reduce $time$ lost in scrap materials/labor.
A neat fallout is increased worker satisfaction and pride
of accomplishment for being able to do a better job in less
time and less dependence on craftsmanship for a good outcome.
I can still see grandad's grin as he watched his carpenters
cut stacks of studs in minutes with the newly acquired Skill-Saw
and a "shop aid" fabricated from some lumber, a hinge,
hunk of angle iron and a screen door spring. Thanks to grandpa
for planting the seeds of the Skunk Works mentality into the
head of a 6 year old grandson. He never knew what a gift
he gave.
I have several such tools . . .some are pretty old (and the
blades are still fine after perhaps 50-100 installations).
I don't carry one in my minimalist toolbox because it takes
up more room than my multitasking Xacto knife with #11
blade in it. If I need to install a connector in the wild,
I can still do it the "hard way" but if I have a dozen
connectors to install on the bench, the strippers come
out.
I didn't think to explore this subject and share the
outcome until someone asked. Others could have (and perhaps
did) do some exploring on their own and had some "discoveries"
that we've not heard about yet. But it's a sure bet that
we all received benefit from somebody's willingness
to throw the question out. I found (stumbled onto)
a good tool, others are coming forward with equal-to-or-
better deals yet.
This ladies and gentlemen is what makes the List work.
The most important component of any problem solving
activity is not the answers but THE QUESTIONS. Was
it ever asked? Were all the questions asked? I've observed
dozens of problem solving activities wherein groups of
people had some discussions, made some decisions,
changed some drawings, expended tens if not hundreds
of thousands of dollars, and declared victory. Some time
later, the problem was found to be only partly resolved
and/or new problems came up as unintended consequences.
Insufficient questions were asked (and subsequently
answered) in their deliberations.
So, after all these years of running down the road
severely deprived of good coax stripping tools, someone
asked the question. One guy went off in search of
an answer. Now others are refining, expanding and
enhancing that answer with their own. The Skunk Works
approach to problem solving.
I've been watching the thread on leds for annunciators.
When the thread first started there were things I thought
of that could have been contributed to the conversation
but other folks tossed those ideas in later down the
thread. I'm not going to get into that thread but will
watch it. I anticipate and increasing degree of satisfaction
and pride of association with folks willing and able to
conduct this exercise; combing the wild for simple-ideas
that have good prospects for application in new products.
For me at least, a teacher's ultimate career goal
is to face his students and say, "gee folks, I have given
you all I have. YOU are now the teachers and have
things to share with me." Of course we know that in
the normal course of human communication. This happens
in microcosm all the time. We are all (or should be)
students and teachers at all times.
Now, I gave away my newest stripping tool yesterday
as a door prize at the seminar in St. Louis. Gotta go
ask Google where to get a better one. Thank you Mike!
> A google search on the part
>number will get you prices better than e-bay. Next trick is to find a
>blade kit cause that braid is gonna kill those blades in short order.
I think you'll find that unless you're going into the coax
assembly business, the blades are going to last for a lifetime
of service in your own Skunk Works.
Bob . . .
---
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Neal where do you live so I can come beat you with a stick. This is one
of lifes little gems.
And thanks Bob for the great reply earlier.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
George Neal E Capt AU/PC
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Coax Strippers
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
You folks can throw rocks at me for not speaking up sooner. I haven't
used
a knife on coax in 15 years - I thought those nifty little strippers
were
common. Of course, I didn't know that y'all didn't know.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wings - finally)
>Oh and BTW, I received my HT-322 rotary coax stripper and I am very
pissed off. I pulled it out of the package, spun it around a piece of
coax, and in about 3 seconds I had a perfectly stripped 3 way coax. How
in the heck did I ever get by with out this little device.
Mike Stewart<
Do not archive
==
==
==
==
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Rather close to you, at the moment.
I'm stationed in the sixth level of Hell.
Whodathunk it would cost more to live in Montgomery than Florida?
Neal E. George, Capt, USAF
Air University Protocol
55 LeMay Plaza South
Maxwell AFB, AL 36112
(334) 953-2095 (DSN 943)
Fax (334) 953-2225
Neal where do you live so I can come beat you with a stick. This is one
of lifes little gems.
And thanks Bob for the great reply earlier.
Mike
Do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: wiring fuel level sender |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Olivier,
I have a connector between my fuselage and wings for all my electrical
wiring. landing/taxi Lights, heated Pitot tube, nav lights, Nav antenna,
etc. In case I ever had to take a wing off. But, finding out how much
trouble it was to put all those bolts and nuts to hold the wing spar to the
bulkhead, I doubt I will ever have a wing off (voluntarily).{:>)
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Olivier Le Carbonnier" <olcdlm@laposte.net>
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>; <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: wiring fuel level sender
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Olivier Le Carbonnier"
<olcdlm@laposte.net>
>
> i have flop tube in the first fuel tank bay and put the fuel level
> sender in the second bay.
> i plan wiring through a existing little hole in the main spar with
> bushing.
> wiring with AWG22.
> could i have a connector at the wing root ? (connector between left
> wing and fuselage).
> or must this fuel sender wire to go from sender to gauge without any
> connector or splicing ?
>
> thank's for help, and sorry for my bad english.
>
> Olivier LC
> France
> ICQ#: 82067330
> sanglier@laposte.net
> http://sangliervolant.chez.tiscali.fr Van's RV-8 n81939 wings
>
>
> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-8-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Lead acid batteries: Vairiations on a theme. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Just so I understand this.
I recently had a new Concorde RG35A battery delivered. TNT smashed the
plastic case in transit so now I have another one. It works well.
My question is about the first one. Certainly nothing leaked out despite
being able to see through the cracks to the inside, and it has been doing
good duty starting my lawn mower. (The mower battery is a bit tired.) Will
moisture evaporate out? Is this acidic?
It is quite useful having a 12V source around, but am I better to get it out
of my workshop?
Thanks, Steve.
---
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Lead acid batteries: Vairiations on a theme. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Oct 4, 2004, at 1:21 PM, Steve Sampson wrote:
> My question is about the first one. Certainly nothing leaked out
> despite
> being able to see through the cracks to the inside, and it has been
> doing
> good duty starting my lawn mower. (The mower battery is a bit tired.)
> Will
> moisture evaporate out? Is this acidic?
>
> It is quite useful having a 12V source around, but am I better to get
> it out
> of my workshop?
It works. Seal up the cracks with something, put it in a vented
battery box, and use it for light duty. Not being completely sealed it
will eventually dry out but in the mean time it is usable.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 12
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| Subject: | 24 Volt batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Every so often the discussion comes up about 12 volt vs. 24 volt systems.
What battery do those who choose 24 volts use? What does it weigh, and how
does it compare the new lightweight batteries like the PC680? Do they hook
2 of them together for 24 volts?
Terry
Message 13
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| Subject: | wiring fuel level sender |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Olivier Le Carbonnier" <olcdlm@laposte.net>
thank's for answer.
i use AWG 20, but i think that AWG22 is enough for fuel senders ? i don't
find anything about this problem.
i own the aeroelectic b nuckolls book and CD and don't find anything about
wire size for fuel gauge (never in van's manual).
Olivier
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]De la part de Ed
Anderson
Envoy : dimanche 3 octobre 2004 19:05
: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Objet : Re: AeroElectric-List: wiring fuel level sender
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
<eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Olivier,
I have a connector between my fuselage and wings for all my electrical
wiring. landing/taxi Lights, heated Pitot tube, nav lights, Nav antenna,
etc. In case I ever had to take a wing off. But, finding out how much
trouble it was to put all those bolts and nuts to hold the wing spar to the
bulkhead, I doubt I will ever have a wing off (voluntarily).{:>)
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Olivier Le Carbonnier" <olcdlm@laposte.net>
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>; <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: wiring fuel level sender
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Olivier Le Carbonnier"
<olcdlm@laposte.net>
>
> i have flop tube in the first fuel tank bay and put the fuel level
> sender in the second bay.
> i plan wiring through a existing little hole in the main spar with
> bushing.
> wiring with AWG22.
> could i have a connector at the wing root ? (connector between left
> wing and fuselage).
> or must this fuel sender wire to go from sender to gauge without any
> connector or splicing ?
>
> thank's for help, and sorry for my bad english.
>
> Olivier LC
> France
> ICQ#: 82067330
> sanglier@laposte.net
> http://sangliervolant.chez.tiscali.fr Van's RV-8 n81939 wings
>
>
> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-8-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: Unstable 20A generator system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CFrank@edony.com
Update:
This past Saturday, I was going to try swapping out the voltage regulator to
rule the old one out. I disconnected the leads, started working on the
ground wire.
I pulled slightly on the wire, and you know what? The wire was improperly
swaged to the eyelet that grounds it to the airframe... actually, it was not
even swaged, since the wires were not crushed. The bare wires were just
making touching contact with the inside of the eyelet, creating an
intermittent connection.
I re-attached the battery, armature, and field wires, and started her up.
Problem solved! No more ammeter needle bounce!
Lesson learned: Continuity testing is not enough. A "tug test" would have
revealed the problem immediately. Live and learn, I guess.
Thanks to all for all the excellent advice.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:b.nuckolls@cox.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Unstable 20A generator system
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:42 AM 9/23/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CFrank@edony.com
>
>Bob,
>
>Thank you very much for your response.
>
>Can I substitute a 35 amp regulator for a 20 amp regulator? I do have a
>spare 14V regulator on hand, but it is rated for 35 amps, not matching my
20
>amp generator output. I suppose that this regulator will do the job, and
>will just regulate for maximum generator output, but I have been reluctant
>to try this out of fear of damaging something.
>
>Either way, whether going with an alternator system or replacing the
voltage
>regulator, I will still need field approval. We'll see if Santa Claus has
>some spare change left over after Xmas for the B&C alternator you
recommend.
>
>I have joined the list, and already am finding it worthwhile.
Substitute the 35A regulator for a quick test to see if
the system settles down. The 35A current limit is too large
to run . . . if your 20A generator is good, the too-large
current limit setting in the regulator will not protect
the generator. However, the test would be useful to see
if a different regulator makes the system behave better.
Bob . . .
---
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Oct 4, 2004, at 1:58 PM, Terry Watson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
> <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Every so often the discussion comes up about 12 volt vs. 24 volt
> systems.
> What battery do those who choose 24 volts use? What does it weigh,
> and how
> does it compare the new lightweight batteries like the PC680? Do they
> hook
> 2 of them together for 24 volts?
Two small 12V gell or AGM batteries in series with a battery equalizer
to, a) ensure equal change and, b) allow one to draw 12V from the pair
without damaging either battery, seems to make the most sense to me.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good
citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 16
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| Subject: | wiring fuel level sender |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Hello Olivier,
Mr Nuckolls strives to give the reader the analytical tools to pick the
correct wire based on a component's electrical demands. He sometimes
provides illustrative examples of the analysis used to size wire. These
examples include calculations using real world numbers. Trying to
provide a comprehensive list of all possible electrical devices (and their
associated wiring) that could be installed in an airplane wouldn't be
practical.
Most sensors are designed to use a minimum amount of power and
cause the least disruption of the measured system. As such, their power
demands are typically low. Because of this, in most cases, the bottom limit
on wire size for connections to sensors is a mechanical one. Really small
wires are not as robust as slightly thicker ones, and are more difficult to
make connections using cheap tools. Reference recent discussion about
certain servo motor wire selection.
For gas guages, AWG22 is plenty, but if you had AWG20 on hand, that works
too.
Regards,
Matt-
VE N34RD, C150 N714BK
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Olivier Le Carbonnier"
> <olcdlm@laposte.net>
>
> thank's for answer.
> i use AWG 20, but i think that AWG22 is enough for fuel senders ? i
> don't find anything about this problem.
> i own the aeroelectic b nuckolls book and CD and don't find anything
> about wire size for fuel gauge (never in van's manual).
>
> Olivier
>
snip
Message 17
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| Subject: | 24 Volt batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Thanks for the answer, Brian. I wonder if there is a way of deriving most
of the benefits of either a 12 or 24 volt system from such a combination.
This is just curiosity to me at this point. I have already added a second
battery to power my Blue Mountain EFIS one while the first one cranks the
starter. I think I have everything worked out so almost any part of the
system can run off one or both batteries, but not off either battery
individually. For example, the EFIS/one can run off battery #2 or 1 & 2,
but not #1 alone; and the starter can be cranked by #1 or #1 and #2, but not
#2 alone.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 wiring & panel
Seattle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Two small 12V gell or AGM batteries in series with a battery equalizer
to, a) ensure equal change and, b) allow one to draw 12V from the pair
without damaging either battery, seems to make the most sense to me.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: earl_schroeder@juno.com
OK, maybe I should already know but please describe "batteries in series
with a battery equalizer" that Brian mentioned. Thanks, Earl
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd
> <brianl@lloyd.com>
>
>
> Two small 12V gell or AGM batteries in series with a battery
> equalizer
> to, a) ensure equal change and, b) allow one to draw 12V from the
> pair
> without damaging either battery, seems to make the most sense to
> me.
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Coax Strippers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:57 AM 10/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
><Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
>You folks can throw rocks at me for not speaking up sooner. I haven't used
>a knife on coax in 15 years - I thought those nifty little strippers were
>common. Of course, I didn't know that y'all didn't know.
How could you know . . . until someone asks the question?
Bob . . .
---
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Lamar Overvoltage Relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:08 PM 10/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Horsten"
><airplanes@sympatico.ca>
>
>Help!
>
>I've got a Lamar B-00289-2 overvoltage relay I'd like to try and use in my
>aircraft. It has two connections on it: Bat and Load. Looking at Bob's
>schematics, the crowbar hooks up to one side of the 5 amp field breaker and
>to ground. In other words, this Lamar doodad may be a different approach
>altogether. Anybody know how and where it gets connected? The Lamar web site
>is all but useless for information.
Yes, it's a true RELAY . . . related to the crowbar ov module only
in intended function. It goes in series with the power from your
alt field circuit breaker (or fuse in this case . . . the ov relay
doesn't force the fuse open). LOAD goes toward the regulator. BAT
goes to the breaker or fuse through the alternator control side of
the DC power master switch.
Bob . . .
---
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse block connections |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:58 AM 10/1/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block connections
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><b.nuckolls@cox.net>
> > >The Fast-on PIDG terminals are 10X-100X higher force. In fact they
> > >require mechanical assisted grip to separate.
> >
> > Force is not the same as pressure. It's pressure that sets electrical
> > integrity of the connection. There are millions of vehicles using
> > similar if not identical connections.
>
>I agree, but in this case extraction force directly relates to pressure as
>the contact area and type are very similar.
>
>And yes I did try pulling the fuse out of my wife's import auto. The force
>and contact marks on the fuse was much higher. Also the contacts were solid
>and not loose as in the Buss products (I have several models all with the
>same very low forces and loose contacts.) Thus based on a tiny sample the
>aftermarket BUSS fuse holders are NOT nearly as good as the production auto
>fuse holders.
>
>I needed the fuse extractor on the auto vs. simple fingers on the BUSS
>product. The marks on the auto fuse indicate much higher contact force
>similar to the highly recommended fast-on lugs.
>
>If we were talking about fast-on terminals, I suspect you would judge the
>(fuse holder) contact force unacceptable.
Fast-ons have a 10x margin of holding force. Most of the fuse
holders are light . . . but the guy at Bussmann assured me that
adequate pressures were there. Pressure is related to force but
we need a scale factor too.
Consider whacking off a whisker with a blade . . . sharp edge
against a cylinder at right angles. Initial area of contact, zero.
Initial force, very light. Pressure . . . tons per square inch and
the whisker fails . . . hopefully at the right height the first time
so you don't have to whack it again.
The risk is in loosing the sharp edges he alludes to in the
trifurcated clip that grabs the fuse. Insertion/removal wear
has to be significant . . . corrosion dulling of the edge is
also a concern.
>I will not consider nor recommend fuse holders of the types I have from
>BUSS.
>
>A system is only as good as its weakest link and I feel the BUSS fuse
>holders commonly available, not ready for aircraft use. The fuse holder on
>the import was fine in my judgment, just not as handy in size.
>
>Making a fuse holder from female fast-on's and pcb material would provide
>the required gas tight contact.
Very true. Keystone and others make solder-tailed fast-on like clips
that mate with the ATC fuse tabs. I have a big bag of them here. I haven't
figured out how I'm going to fixture a bunch of these on an assembly and
keep them really straight for soldering. At the moment, the plan is
to cut a forest-of-fuse-tabs into a chunk of soft but hardenable steel.
I'll populate the fixture with sockets and then work them onto the board.
Just need to wait until my budget for tooling is a bit more flush. I'm not
going to try to cut that one out on the ol' Bridgeport!
Bob . . .
---
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin & Garmin AT Installation Manuals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
I downloaded the CNX80 rev F installation manual. Compared to Rev C that
was published by UPS, the quality of Rev F is appalling! Many of the
drawings and diagrams are unreadable. Looks like someone zeroxed it
several times using an old 300 dpi copier and then converted it to a .pdf
file. I cannot imagine asking their "licensed installers" to rely on this
document to install it according to the FAR's. Looks like they have put
these on line for us to make us feel good.
Best,
John
>
> Well hopefully not John, but like some of the other posts, I have the
> entire directory archived for our future benefit.
>
> Ahhhh the power of technology!
>
> Many thanks for the huge response and the help. It works like a charm.
> Hopefully, Garmin won't plug this loophole as well. Ahhhhh, the whiff of
> monopoly!! :-))
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>
>
--
Message 23
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| Subject: | Cheap terminal crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "glaesers" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
I was browsing on eBay and found the following wire crimper - an OTC-4497
"Stinger" for $19. It looks very similar to the tool on the B&C website.
I then did a Google search on the part number - hoping for more info - found
the second link but the same description.
Has anyone used one of these crimpers? Any chance these will make good
crimps on PIDG terminals??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31483&item=3843657281
&rd=1
also
http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Prod
uct_Code=OTC-4497&Category_Code=251
Thanks,
Dennis Glaeser
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap terminal crimper |
clamav-milter version 0.80c
on juliet.albedo.net
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Dennis
It certainly looks like the imported one that I am using on PIDG
terminals and I am delighted with it for the electrical connection but I
often touch up the insulation side a bit (when crimping tefzel) with a
separate crimper that has a round die. Both sides (electrical and
insulation) are the same on that tool but I still like it.
Ken
glaesers wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "glaesers" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
>
>I was browsing on eBay and found the following wire crimper - an OTC-4497
>"Stinger" for $19. It looks very similar to the tool on the B&C website.
>I then did a Google search on the part number - hoping for more info - found
>the second link but the same description.
>
>Has anyone used one of these crimpers? Any chance these will make good
>crimps on PIDG terminals??
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31483&item=3843657281
>&rd=1
>also
>http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Prod
>uct_Code=OTC-4497&Category_Code=251
>
>Thanks,
> Dennis Glaeser
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | RE: Unstable 20A generator system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: william mills <courierboy@earthlink.net>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CFrank@edony.com
>
>Update:
>
>This past Saturday, I was going to try swapping out the voltage regulator to
>rule the old one out. I disconnected the leads, started working on the
>ground wire.
>
>I pulled slightly on the wire, and you know what? The wire was improperly
>swaged to the eyelet that grounds it to the airframe... actually, it was not
>even swaged, since the wires were not crushed. The bare wires were just
>making touching contact with the inside of the eyelet, creating an
>intermittent connection.
>
>I re-attached the battery, armature, and field wires, and started her up.
>Problem solved! No more ammeter needle bounce!
>
>Lesson learned: Continuity testing is not enough. A "tug test" would have
>revealed the problem immediately. Live and learn, I guess.
>
>Thanks to all for all the excellent advice.
This is a superb example of why we should "feel-up" our
airframes/sysems. One of my A/P instructors would get his hands on
everything. Even things directly in front of him that looked secure
he'd give a tug. This method of getting your hands on everything is
paramount to a good inspection and may prevent some FBO from telling
you "it was a bad $diode$".
Thanks -
Bill
do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap terminal crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:38 PM 10/4/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
>Dennis
>It certainly looks like the imported one that I am using on PIDG
>terminals and I am delighted with it for the electrical connection but I
>often touch up the insulation side a bit (when crimping tefzel) with a
>separate crimper that has a round die. Both sides (electrical and
>insulation) are the same on that tool but I still like it.
>Ken
>
>glaesers wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "glaesers"
> <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
> >
> >I was browsing on eBay and found the following wire crimper - an OTC-4497
> >"Stinger" for $19. It looks very similar to the tool on the B&C website.
> >I then did a Google search on the part number - hoping for more info - found
> >the second link but the same description.
> >
> >Has anyone used one of these crimpers? Any chance these will make good
> >crimps on PIDG terminals??
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31483&item=3843657281
> >&rd=1
> >also
> >http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Prod
> >uct_Code=OTC-4497&Category_Code=251
> >
> >Thanks,
> > Dennis Glaeser
Yes, that is the same tool. I believe there are only a few
folks making this tool. I've seen it in the wild with a variety
of colored handles but with identical mold and machine marks.
I've seen it priced anywhere from $17 or so up to $125 but
they're all made in Taiwan, if not by the same company then
twin brother companies.
Bob . . .
---
Message 27
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| Subject: | D-sub connectors current rating |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
All,
Requesting the max current rating for miniature d-sub connectors, both
soldered and machined pin types please. That would be max current per
pin I guess.
Many thanks
Kingsley Hurst
Europa 281 in Oz.
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