Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:44 AM - Re: 24 Volt batteries (Brian Lloyd)
2. 06:06 AM - Re: Cheap terminal crimper (Glaeser, Dennis A)
3. 07:25 AM - Re: Fuse blocks (Stanley Mann)
4. 08:36 AM - Re: D-sub connectors current rating (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 08:52 AM - Re: Unstable generator - Putting one's hands/eyes on (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 10:00 AM - 9 v power supply (czechsix@juno.com)
7. 10:08 AM - Mice and Phones (Steve Sampson)
8. 12:50 PM - Re: 9 v power supply (Tim Olson)
9. 12:53 PM - Re: Mice and Phones (Charlie England)
10. 01:18 PM - Re: Mice and Phones (Matt Prather)
11. 02:10 PM - Re: Re: Fuse blocks (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 02:14 PM - Re: Starter vs Master contactor (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 02:18 PM - Re: PTC Overload Protectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 02:23 PM - Re: stainless towel bar firewall (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 02:34 PM - Re: barrier strip? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 02:37 PM - Re: 9 v power supply (Nuffer, Chuck)
17. 05:16 PM - Wiring Harnesses (Chris Horsten)
18. 06:10 PM - Re: D-sub connectors current rating (Kingsley Hurst)
19. 08:44 PM - Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 08:48 PM - Re: Garmin BNC connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 09:57 PM - Crimpers (Guy Buchanan)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Oct 4, 2004, at 5:37 PM, earl_schroeder@juno.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: earl_schroeder@juno.com
>
> OK, maybe I should already know but please describe "batteries in
> series
> with a battery equalizer" that Brian mentioned. Thanks, Earl
I find that many people who go for a 24V/28V electrical system also
want 12V/14V to run other loads. I have also seen people make the
mistake of just stealing the 12V from the center tap between the two
batteries. This is bad because it causes the upper battery to
overcharge and the lower battery to be perpetually undercharged.
An equalizer is a special 24V-to-12V converter that sits across both
batteries connecting to ground, the center tap between the batteries
and to the 24V point (positive terminal of the upper battery). Like
this:
,------+---------> 24V
| |
| B2
| |
E------+---------> 12V
| |
| B1
| |
`------+---------> Gnd
The voltage at the 12V point is always exactly 1/2 the voltage at the
24V point. This ensures that the batteries maintain equal charge even
if you draw power from the 12V tap.
The advantage to this approach over the more conventional 24V-to-12V
converter running from the 24V buss is that, if the equalizer fails the
batteries will still provide approximately 12V to the 12V loads thus
allowing you to complete your flight without losing any of your
equipment. If you use a converter and it fails you lose all your 12V
loads.
SurePower makes both battery equalizers and converters with capacities
from 10A to 150A. For most aircraft I would suspect a 10A unit would
probably suffice.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap terminal crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
Thanks Ken and Bob! I just bought one. My previous email has the links for
anyone else who is in the market.
Dennis
---
From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Dennis
It certainly looks like the imported one that I am using on PIDG
terminals and I am delighted with it for the electrical connection but I
often touch up the insulation side a bit (when crimping tefzel) with a
separate crimper that has a round die. Both sides (electrical and
insulation) are the same on that tool but I still like it.
Ken
---
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Yes, that is the same tool. I believe there are only a few
folks making this tool. I've seen it in the wild with a variety
of colored handles but with identical mold and machine marks.
I've seen it priced anywhere from $17 or so up to $125 but
they're all made in Taiwan, if not by the same company then
twin brother companies.
Bob . . .
---
________________________________ Message 27
____________________________________
Time: 09:32:37 PM PST US
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: D-sub connectors current rating
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
<khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
All,
Requesting the max current rating for miniature d-sub connectors, both
soldered and machined pin types please. That would be max current per
pin I guess.
Many thanks
Kingsley Hurst
Europa 281 in Oz.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stanley Mann" <mesllc@hotmail.com>
"Very true. Keystone and others make solder-tailed fast-on like clips
that mate with the ATC fuse tabs. I have a big bag of them here. I haven't
figured out how I'm going to fixture a bunch of these on an assembly and
keep them really straight for soldering. At the moment, the plan is
to cut a forest-of-fuse-tabs into a chunk of soft but hardenable steel"
Bob,
In the past I've used fairly simple arbor press type tooling to insert PCB type
terminals. The key is to design the PCB with the proper amount of interference
fit to keep the terminal straight during soldering and to design the tooling
to make sure the board is flat, supported well below the terminal, and the terminal
is inserted perpendicular. This requires much less tooling sophistication
(work) as you only tool one pocket to hold the terminal and support rails to
keep the board flat. An anvil to put a minimal swage on the legs as they come
through the PCB will guarantee that they don't come back out. This duplicates
the action of the automatic insertion machines supplied by companies like Autosplice
just manually positioned and actuated. A properly sized, plated through
hole in the PCB does a good job of keeping things aligned and vertical and
provide good vibration fatique resistance. Similar tooling would insert the male
faston tabs for outgoing connections.
It would seem that one could make a power distribution board that incorporated
some other items like undervoltage sensing or OV protection, keep-warm for lights,
wig-wag, etc. The simplicity factor is one unit with fewer connections, the
down side would be lack of flexibility. Ideas?
Stan
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: D-sub connectors current rating |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:28 PM 10/5/2004 +1000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
><khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
>
>All,
>
>Requesting the max current rating for miniature d-sub connectors, both
>soldered and machined pin types please. That would be max current per
>pin I guess.
>
>Many thanks
>
>Kingsley Hurst
>Europa 281 in Oz.
It depends on the reliability level you're looking for. 5A for any
one pin is the rating . . . if you want to run lots of pins at "power"
levels, I'll suggest you de-rate the pins a bit and parallel some pins.
I did a design for a solid state power distribution controller for a
super sonic target. We had conductors entering and leaving the controller
that carried 20A continuous. We designed d-sub i/o connectors into the
system and then wired it as illustrated in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/dsub-pin-paralleling.gif
The long strands of 22AWG add just enough resistance to make pins
reliably share the loads. In the case I cited above, 7 pins were
used to carry 20A with high degree of reliability. If you need to
run more than 5A on one wire, is it continuous or intermittent?
If you used the technique cited, you can run a LOT of current through
a d-sub connector. My early proof of concept fixture paralleled 12/13
pins together in a single 25-pin d-sub. We tested it at elevated
temperatures carrying 40 Amps through each of two conductors for a
total of 80A, intermittent loads of twice that amount would not have
been a big concern.
Bob . . .
---
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Unstable generator - Putting one's hands/eyes on |
everything
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
everything
> >
> >This past Saturday, I was going to try swapping out the voltage regulator to
> >rule the old one out. I disconnected the leads, started working on the
> >ground wire.
> >
> >I pulled slightly on the wire, and you know what? The wire was improperly
> >swaged to the eyelet that grounds it to the airframe... actually, it was not
> >even swaged, since the wires were not crushed. The bare wires were just
> >making touching contact with the inside of the eyelet, creating an
> >intermittent connection.
Great! Pleased that you've solved the problem.
<snip>
> . . . . . One of my A/P instructors would get his hands on
>everything. Even things directly in front of him that looked secure
>he'd give a tug. This method of getting your hands on everything is
>paramount to a good inspection and may prevent some FBO from telling
>you "it was a bad $diode$".
Yup. This is one of the reasons why I've suggested that owners
of OBAM aircraft "retie" their bundles under the cowl every annual
or so. Don't worry about $high$ tie-wraps. Use any tie-wrap you like
but snip them off during the annual (just a few at a time) and look
things over for chaffing, cracked insulation, poor bundle routing,
etc. The whole operation shouldn't take 15-30 minutes to do under
the cowl and it gives you a good look-see on the ship's most
vulnerable wires, tubes and hoses.
Bob . . .
P.S. Been looking into this ageing aircraft wiring thing. So far,
95% of the issues have more to do with poor cleanliness, terrible
preventative maintenance and lack of professional attention to detail
by mechanics (no doubt due to corporate policy). There ARE a few
issues with insulation types but Tefzel is at the bottom of the totem
pole for probability of being a trouble maker.
Incidentally, in the first 30 documents I've reviewed, I haven't
seen Teflon mentioned once. A builder at the St. Louis seminar
last weekend recalled Teflon airframe wiring on an old F-4. He
had to etch the insulation on the wire before installing a connector
to improve bonding of the connector sealing compound to the wire's
insulation. I'd forgotten that Teflon is so damned hard to glue,
the hi-rel military programs that use potted connectors would have
hated the stuff.
Watch this space . . .
---
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 9 v power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
I'm looking at upgrading to ANR using the Headsets Inc upgrade kit. I'd like to
put 9v power jack in my RV so I don't need to keep changing batteries. Headsets
Inc sells a 9 v power supply for $39, and claims you need really stable power
input for the ANR to work well.
Is this true? Could you just use a zener diode to drop the 12V down to 9v (I know
it would fluctuate some depending on bus voltage)? Or does it need to be
something fancier, and if so, are there any cheap do-it-yourself plans out there
for such a power supply?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D paint is DONE, now gotta finish wiring...
Get your name as your email address.
Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more
Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
The plugs on the end of my headsets have three segments to them. Can someone
advise me what the standard is for the signal and return on each of these
since I have to wire the jackplugs up.
Thanks, Steve.
RV9a
---
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 9 v power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I did this in my current plane. Added 9V stable supplies for
4 jacks. I used a component similar to theirs, only larger.
It's an isolation system for the power and provides short-circuit
protection as well. In the end, for me to track down these
components one-by-one, I paid nearly what those separate jacks
cost. If I did it again I'd buy theirs. One reason is that they
use a very nice threaded-on power plug so it doesn't unplug on
you. I was able to find them, but it wasn't easy. Sure, you
can hack something together, and I'm sure a zener or a 3-pin
regulator would work, but it isn't really a stable or complete
solution. I'd say just suck it up and buy their jacks.
Besides that, you're flying a -8, right?? It's only about
$80, and it makes it real easy to wire.
BTW: I absolutely loved the ANR upgrade....so much so that
I went out and bought the kids headsets and upgraded them,
and did the wife's too. After using them, I can't see
being without, and they're every bit as good as my
father's lightspeeds, from what I can tell.
Tim
czechsix@juno.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com"
> <czechsix@juno.com>
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I'm looking at upgrading to ANR using the Headsets Inc upgrade kit.
> I'd like to put 9v power jack in my RV so I don't need to keep
> changing batteries. Headsets Inc sells a 9 v power supply for $39,
> and claims you need really stable power input for the ANR to work
> well.
>
> Is this true? Could you just use a zener diode to drop the 12V down
> to 9v (I know it would fluctuate some depending on bus voltage)? Or
> does it need to be something fancier, and if so, are there any cheap
> do-it-yourself plans out there for such a power supply?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D paint is DONE, now gotta
> finish wiring...
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mice and Phones |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Steve Sampson wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
>The plugs on the end of my headsets have three segments to them. Can someone
>advise me what the standard is for the signal and return on each of these
>since I have to wire the jackplugs up.
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>
>RV9a
>
The mic plug (smaller diameter) is:
tip- push to talk
ring- mic audio
shield (closest to your hand)- ground or return for both audio & PTT
If you have stereo headphones, the shield (closest to your hand) is
ground return, & I can't remember which is left & right for tip & ring
but you can tell for yourself with a 1.5V flashlight battery & a couple
of jumper wires. Tie one end of the battery to the shield & touch the
other end to the tip of the headphone connector. The earcup that clicks
is tied to the tip & the other is tied to the ring.
Charlie
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mice and Phones |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Do a Google search on "aircraft headset wiring" and what do you
know, but the first hit is where Bob published the microphone side...
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/micjack/micjack.html
A similar search will show the headphone side....
Regards,
Matt-
VE N34RD, C150 N714BK
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
> <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
> The plugs on the end of my headsets have three segments to them. Can
> someone advise me what the standard is for the signal and return on each
> of these since I have to wire the jackplugs up.
>
> Thanks, Steve.
>
> RV9a
>
> ---
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:19 AM 10/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stanley Mann" <mesllc@hotmail.com>
>
>"Very true. Keystone and others make solder-tailed fast-on like clips
> that mate with the ATC fuse tabs. I have a big bag of them here. I haven't
> figured out how I'm going to fixture a bunch of these on an assembly and
> keep them really straight for soldering. At the moment, the plan is
> to cut a forest-of-fuse-tabs into a chunk of soft but hardenable steel"
>
>Bob,
>In the past I've used fairly simple arbor press type tooling to insert PCB
>type terminals. The key is to design the PCB with the proper amount of
>interference fit to keep the terminal straight during soldering and to
>design the tooling to make sure the board is flat, supported well below
>the terminal, and the terminal is inserted perpendicular. This requires
>much less tooling sophistication (work) as you only tool one pocket to
>hold the terminal and support rails to keep the board flat. An anvil to
>put a minimal swage on the legs as they come through the PCB will
>guarantee that they don't come back out. This duplicates the action of the
>automatic insertion machines supplied by companies like Autosplice just
>manually positioned and actuated. A properly sized, plated through hole in
>the PCB does a good job of keeping things aligned and vertical and provide
>good vibration fatique resistance. Similar tooling would insert the male
>faston tabs for outgoing connections.
I've made some boards doing just that. These particular pins don't stay
real straight unless fully seated and I need to shim the part up about
.030" for fully seated so that soldering operations later don't wick up
into the clip.
>It would seem that one could make a power distribution board that
>incorporated some other items like undervoltage sensing or OV protection,
>keep-warm for lights, wig-wag, etc. The simplicity factor is one unit with
>fewer connections, the down side would be lack of flexibility. Ideas?
Yes, that's what I've been toying with. It's pretty low on the
totem pole of things to do but not so far down that I don't
ponder the options. I'm in some discussions with a potential
partner for some future products. We think we could produce a
kit that would put 90% of the wiring in an RV in 3 hours or less.
Don't anybody hold up their projects based on this statement.
This will take a highly evolved kit with considerable development,
tooling and investment.
Yeah, there's some loss of flexibility but 95% of the OBAM
aircraft community doesn't care. Folks who hang out on the list
discussion DIFFERENT ways to do things are a small part of the
total. Most folks would be really happy with some kind of
cookie-cutter approach to getting their airplane wired.
Bob . . .
---
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Starter vs Master contactor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:45 PM 10/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Horsten"
><airplanes@sympatico.ca>
>
>Bob, Ken,
>
>Thanks for the clarification. Got to my hangar, schematic in hand and
>noticed that that's what I had to do. I was able to get a reading across the
>small connector and the mount (ground) but not across the connector and
>either of the large connectors on the three terminal variety. Even stranger,
>I couldn't get any reading across my four terminal one which is brand new.
>On the last one, I was able to get about 14 ohms, so at least that one is
>ID'd. Gonna play with it some more tomorrow. I can't believe that two out of
>three are toast!
Keep in mind all the possible combinations of coil wiring. Not all
4-terminal
contactors use two terminals for coils. Some contactors will connect coils
internally to one of the main studs, others will connect to the mounting
base.
You have to poke around a bit to see which combination is used.
Bob . . .
---
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: PTC Overload Protectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:33 PM 9/30/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Tvedte" <JohnT@comp-sol.com>
>
>
>Bob,
>
>Haven't you also suggested that it isn't always a good idea to turn
>something back on - if a fuse/breaker blows during flight?
I've suggested, as have many others, that it's not always a good
thing to fiddle with breakers or mis-behaving accessories in flight.
The self re-setting PTC encourages or even forces fiddling activity
because of the indefinite nature of PTC operation. When the
accessory quits, you're likely to mess around with it not knowing
that it's going off line due to over-load of the PTC. A breaker
or fuse makes this condition known the first time and at least
offers you the opportunity to leave it alone until on the ground.
Bob . . .
---
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: stainless towel bar firewall |
penetrations
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
penetrations
At 06:57 PM 9/26/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
><mick-matronics@rv8.ch> penetrations
>
>
> > ... I'm always on
> > the lookout for other quick-n-dirty but practical substitutes for
> > "aircraft quality" parts.
>
>This is good - do you generally post these somewhere on the
>net? I was looking for the "grab bar" solution for quite
>some time, and had Rob not pointed it out, I would have
>probably never found it!
A Matronics archive search should have unearthed the
threads about this.
I've been toying with a third publication . . . an occasional
regurgitation of Tech Tips gleaned from thousands of e-mail
threads over the years . . . a sort of frequency asked questions
thing as a monthly posting to the website. Each would have
a table of contents. They would be .pdf documents so the search
engines would catalog them as well.
The whole editing task should take more than two, maybe
three hundred hours . . . but I am saving the input data
for that series of rainy days!
Bob . . .
---
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: barrier strip? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:03 PM 9/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
><sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>I am trying to figure out what to use physically to distribute the +12
>power for the main bus and the essential bus. I spotted some Molex
>barrier strips (well, Beau, actually) that have optional shorting clips
>you can insert to connect adjacent screw terminals together. I'm
>thinking of attaching +12v supply in a few places to such a strip with
>the shorting clips all across. Seems like one barrier strip for each
>bus ought to do it.
>
>Is this acceptable? Is there a better way to do this?
You betcha. I haven't used a terminal strip in a new
design in decades. Fuse blocks are my personal favorite but
breakers and bus bars work too. Take a peek behind the circuit
breaker panel of any certified ship. Also look at
http://bandc.biz/Fuseholder.html
Bob . . .
---
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 9 v power supply |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Nuffer, Chuck" <CNuffer@it21.com>
Hey Mark......... Been sporting a set of Headsets inc ANR's for about 10
years. Great support, great guys.
I have the power jacks in my plane..... Yeah, I know $40 a pop, but they
work and no noise. Don't exactly know what is on the small board but
it's definitely more than a single diode.
Good luck......
Regards,
Chuck Nuffer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
czechsix@juno.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 9 v power supply
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com"
--> <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
I'm looking at upgrading to ANR using the Headsets Inc upgrade kit. I'd
like to put 9v power jack in my RV so I don't need to keep changing
batteries. Headsets Inc sells a 9 v power supply for $39, and claims
you need really stable power input for the ANR to work well.
Is this true? Could you just use a zener diode to drop the 12V down to
9v (I know it would fluctuate some depending on bus voltage)? Or does
it need to be something fancier, and if so, are there any cheap
do-it-yourself plans out there for such a power supply?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D paint is DONE, now gotta finish wiring...
Get your name as your email address.
Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more Only $1.99/ month
- visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wiring Harnesses |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Horsten" <airplanes@sympatico.ca>
I decided not to try and tackle the wiring harnesses myself for my Zenair
CH-300, except for the power stuff. Instead I went to SteinAir
(www.steinair.com) and sent them all my Dsub connectors, intercom jacks
etc. What I got back was an excellent, clean and easy to hook up wiring
harness for each of my panel components, to my custom specification. The
price was excellent, and the workmanship the same. Amidst some of the bad
news suppliers being discussed I just wanted to share my great experience
with the guys at Steinair.
Chris H
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | D-sub connectors current rating |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
>Requesting the max current rating for miniature d-sub connectors, both
>soldered and machined pin types please. That would be max current per
>pin I guess.
Bob,
In view of the fact that you really do owe us nothing, I sincerely
appreciate the trouble you go to for the likes of people like me. Thank
you mate.
I do not have a particular application in mind right now, but can
foresee maybe using a d-sub here or there. Not having any idea just how
much current they can safely carry, thought I would seek the wisdom
available on the list first.
In relation to the drawing you did for me at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/dsub-pin-paralleling.gif
Is that connector a Blue 'PIDGE' Splice ? If so, could you tell me what
the 'E' stands for please Bob.
Thanks again
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Classic 281 in Oz
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Jig for wiring a 25 pin D-Sub connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:41 AM 8/9/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob....I spent two frustrating hours trying to solder a D-sub connector
>onto the 19+ wires of an Infinity Stick. The idea is to be able to remove
>the stick during annuals, etc. I eventually threw up the idea and decided
>there MUST be some kind of professional jig for wiring these things.
>Can you direct me to such a device?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Neil
You've probably got past this issue by now. Sorry that it slipped
so far behind. First, I'd pitch the solder type connector in favor
of crimp. You can get the connector housings from Radio Shack (throw
away pins that come with their crimp style connector) and substitute
machined pins from bandc.biz or steinair.com
Both suppliers also sell low cost tools to crimp and extract pins.
Soldered connectors are fine too, just less convenient. I'll solder
one if there's no convenient option to shift to crimped. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
Bob . . .
---
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin BNC connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:33 AM 8/11/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson"
><neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>
>Listers
>
>I need to replace the BNC connector on my Garmin 196 GPS aerial lead.
>Doe's anyone know what type of connector I need, 50 or 75 ohm?
it will be 50 ohm but more likely rated to fit the particular
coax as opposed to having an impedance rating.
Bob . . .
---
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Hi all!
I purchased Bob Ducar's Kitfox IV a little while back. Bob had nearly
finished it; only the wiring was left to do. I'm working on that now. (Yes,
I've got Bob Nucholls' book and will be installing his Z-17 system pretty
much as drawn.) Unfortunately that leads me to raise a subject probably
already discussed to death, even though I couldn't find much in the
archives. I want to use some PIDG FASTONs and other PIDG connectors and
need a crimp tool. I found Bob Nucholl's on B&C for $40. I checked on the
AMP site and they said I had to use their ~$350 TETRA-CRIMP for PIDG
FASTONs. I called them and asked why I couldn't use the ~$66 PRO-CRIMPER II
and they said that the resulting crimps would not meet CSA (?) approval,
even though the PRO-CRIMPER is approved for all other PIDG terminals and
splices. I'd like to do it right, but am I getting entirely too anal? Maybe
I should buy the expensive one and donate it to the local EAA chapter?
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 w/ 582.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|