Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:56 AM - Re: (no subject) (WRBYARS@aol.com)
2. 07:06 AM - Re: (no subject) (WRBYARS@aol.com)
3. 10:27 AM - Re: Flightcom Intercom (Brian Lloyd)
4. 05:34 PM - Re: 11654 Murphy (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:19 PM - LASAR enunciator light wiring Q (Walter Tondu)
6. 10:29 PM - Vinyl Insulated Ring Tongue Terminals (Kingsley Hurst)
7. 10:38 PM - Miniature switch current ratings-was ?how to wire a solder type switch... (James Foerster)
8. 11:21 PM - Re: LASAR enunciator light wiring Q (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
Hi Bob,
Thank you for the info. You're right it is Hitachi. Would you please send me
the web site where you found this info, or where I could get additional
technical data on the regulator, a schematic, etc.
Bill
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
Bob, my previous post left out this info: Hitachi, LT150-62 alternator.
Sorry I'm not quite awake yet.
Bill
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Flightcom Intercom |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Oct 7, 2004, at 9:45 AM, Peter Laurence wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Peter Laurence
> <dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
>
>>> Brian,
> I was thinking of purchasing Jim Weir's intercom.
> You stated that the RST intercom "doesn't
>>> work very well." Would you elaborate on this?.
> Is it a faulty circuit or in your opinion a not so great design?
No, that was not from me. I have no experience with Jim's intercom and
so cannot comment. I did build and install his marker beacon receiver
in my RV-4 and was pleased with its performance. Jim seems to know
what he is doing.
YMMV.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good
citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: 11654 Murphy |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Bob
> Do you have a sourse for circuit breakers with Fast On terminals. B&C
> cannot supply. John Murphy
If you use breakers, go with the screws. You need to connect all the
breakers together with a common bus bar which will screw directly
onto the breaker terminals. One of the goals for using fuse blocks is to
reduce the system parts count. If you use fast-on breakers, then
the parts reduction gained with fast-ons at the breakers is lost
when you have to fabricate a bus bar, support it, insulate it
and install a jumper wire from the bus to the breaker with
more screws and two terminals, only one of which is a fast-on.
Really messy.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 5
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lycoming@yahoogroups.com
Subject: | LASAR enunciator light wiring Q |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
This question is for those of you who have installed a LASAR
system on your bird and have *not* used the supplied enunciator
light, but instead wired an enunciator light of your chosing.
I'm trying to figure out how to wire this. The LASAR enunciator
light socket has three inputs: (1) positive voltage from the bus,
(2) negative feed, and a third (3) feed which comes from the LASAR
ignition black box. I want to wire this to a light socket
which has only two posts.
I've tried using just 1 and 3 and the light just stays on.
Didn't want to experiment much further.
Any ideas?
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 6
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Subject: | Vinyl Insulated Ring Tongue Terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
Bob et al,
When I went to order some Vinyl Insulated Ring Tongue Terminals on the
weekend, I noted in the ACS catalogue that for example, 22-16 (Red)
terminals have stud sizes of 4,6,8,10, 1/4
Could you enlighten me as to what this seemingly convoluted way of
sizing the holes means please ? Eg If I want a terminal for a 3/16"
stud, what is the correct number equivalent ?
Thank you in anticipation.
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
Message 7
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Subject: | Miniature switch current ratings-was ?how to wire a |
solder type switch...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster" <jmfpublic@comcast.net>
Bob,
Thanks for your comments. You mentioned that with these smaller switches I
would need to use a relay for pitot heat, nav and landing lights, and other
high current needs. I reread your chapter on switch ratings, and reread the
spec sheet for the NKK 2100 series switches. They are rated for resistive
loads only: 3 amps at 30 volts DC, 6 amps at 125 volts AC. With a life
cycle of 25,000 electrical and 50,000 mechanical, I don't mind overloading
them. But the chapter on incandescent loads is worrisome. I may need to
use some of the ugly automobile switches rated for 20 to 30 amps. Radio
Shack, Pep Boys, Kragen Auto all have rocker type lighted switches with a
round hole mount and 1/4 inch tabs. These use a large bar of copper
internally to make contact. I took one apart last year, but can't do the
nice photomicrographs that you do to show this. In any event, rather than
use relays, I will use a switch with higher ratings for incandescent loads.
Listers should know that there are a wide variety of high current switches
with LED or illuminated actuators and 1/4 inch tabs. The highest quality
unit, made by Cole-Hersee, is about $19 from West Marine, and is slightly
larger than a standard toggle but with a plastic case. It is sealed, rated
at 30 amps, and has a white LED tip. At the other end of the toggle
spectrum, for about $4.00, is a #85909 Conduct-Tite switch from Kragen, also
rated at 30 amps. It has a plastic toggle wrapped with an aluminum tube
with a red LED at the tip. Looks nice, but I will carry spares.
Fortunately, the landing lights are HID from Hella. I don't think the HID
ballast will pull the same current spike as a cold filament, so I can use
the nice NKK switch.
I wonder if it is possible to estimate the risk of a welded switch by the
rise in resistance after a small numbers of cycles, say, 100. Perhaps this
is another application for the milliohmmeter...
Jim Foerster J400, wiring slooowly
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: LASAR enunciator light wiring Q |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Walter,
I was using a LED which is blinking (gets your attention faster).
The 2nd post is just used as a push to test, that is the reason you have
three, but as the ignition is on fault when you switch it on and do the
magneto check, you do not need this functionality.
You did wire it correctly, as the enunciator will go out, when the engine is
running after about 20 seconds only =(;o).
Just in case you have once problems starting after the first splutters, try
to "reset" the Lasar by switch off power for a few seconds, then engage
again and it will start immediately.
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
<lycoming@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: LASAR enunciator light wiring Q
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> This question is for those of you who have installed a LASAR
> system on your bird and have *not* used the supplied enunciator
> light, but instead wired an enunciator light of your chosing.
>
> I'm trying to figure out how to wire this. The LASAR enunciator
> light socket has three inputs: (1) positive voltage from the bus,
> (2) negative feed, and a third (3) feed which comes from the LASAR
> ignition black box. I want to wire this to a light socket
> which has only two posts.
>
> I've tried using just 1 and 3 and the light just stays on.
> Didn't want to experiment much further.
>
> Any ideas?
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
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