Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:18 AM - Re: Report on auto HID lights for aircraft (James Foerster)
2. 04:39 AM - Re: Shielded serial cables (Brian Lloyd)
3. 05:13 AM - Re: What's going on ??? (cgalley)
4. 05:19 AM - Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? (Ken)
5. 06:08 AM - Re: Shielded serial cables (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
6. 06:17 AM - Re: CoolSolder (Scott Bilinski)
7. 06:23 AM - Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
8. 07:00 AM - Re: Shielded serial cables (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:08 AM - Re: Shielded serial cables (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
10. 07:44 AM - Re: Re: Report on auto HID lights for aircraft (SportAV8R@aol.com)
11. 07:55 AM - Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? (Gary Casey)
12. 08:01 AM - Re: Re: Report on auto HID lights for aircraft (Carlos Sa)
13. 09:01 AM - Re: Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel (Richard Riley)
14. 09:01 AM - Re: Re: Report on auto HID lights for (Richard Riley)
15. 10:58 AM - automatic standby fuel pump (The Minearts)
16. 03:25 PM - Flap Motor Wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 05:04 PM - Automatic standby fuel pump (Frankhsmit@wmconnect.com)
18. 07:50 PM - Re: CoolSolder (Scott Jackson)
19. 08:13 PM - Copper foil antenna question (mike_tailwind@att.net)
20. 09:11 PM - Response to Copper foil antenna question (Jim Stone)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Report on auto HID lights for aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster" <jmfpublic@comcast.net>
Steve, you asked:
"Did you evaluate the xevision lights in your search and if so, why did
you go this way? See:
http://www.aerovisions.com/hid/hid_aircraft_kits.html#conversionkits
I had run across this site about a year ago. They were not posting prices
then, and when I called, the units ran about $700 each.. They now have more
offerings, and the prices are better. The Hella unit is still two for $640,
so if you know someone who also needs the HID light, this is a better price.
I agree that XeVision is now a more reasonable buy, and I'm interested in
the DC ballast that they talk about, but seem to not yet offer.
Jim Foerster
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded serial cables |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Oct 20, 2004, at 2:14 AM, Terry Watson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
> <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Thanks, Brian. What I referred to as a keypad is actually a remote
> location
> for the buttons and knobs on the right side of the EFIS screen.
Oh, that keypad.
> I put them
> on the left right above the throttle so I can completely control the
> EFIS
> with my left hand and won't have to let go of the stick in my right
> hand. I
> really like the way the combination of four buttons and two concentric
> rotating knobs control everything. The keyBOARD won't be on board
> unless
> it's a cross country, and then it will be in the baggage compartment.
I retract my comment then.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good
citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: What's going on ??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Does the single light have full brightness or is it kind of reddish?
Have you checked the landing light ground? It could be bad.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: What's going on ???
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
>
>
> We have a Bonanza with a peculiar electrical load issue.
>
> With everything electric ON - - pitot heat, nav, rotating beacon, radios,
AND one (and only one) of two landing lights - - the 14V system charges
just fine on the ground at about 1500 RPM, maintaining a full 14.x volts.
>
> Do the same thing with everything OFF, except the landing light - - and
NOW - - add the second landing light, and the entire system discharges hard
at the same 1500 RPM, down to a buss voltage of about 12.5.
>
> It doesn't make any difference which of the two landing lights you use, in
either order, for the test.
>
> I am having a hard time understanding that one landing light is a much
bigger load than the rest of the entire aircraft systems (including the
pitot).
>
> It appears that there is some kind of short developing when both landing
light switches are ON, rather than either one ON, by itself.
>
> Any thoughts or ideas?
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? |
clamav-milter version 0.80c
on juliet.albedo.net
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
This mechanical solution may not the best idea. I am aware of some
failed attempts to do that with efi pumps but vapour bubbles tend to
form as the pressure drops across the relief valve and many pumps don't
work well with bubbles in the inlet. If going this route it is usually
necessary to return the fuel to a header tank or the main fuel tank.
OTOH it might be adequate with a carbuerator pressures and avgas but I'd
still be cautious. Some cars did something similar to control vapour
lock but they also routed the return fuel back to the tank on the ones
that I owned.
Ken
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
>
>On Oct 19, 2004, at 8:45 PM, Richard Riley wrote:
>
>
>
>>Now, one problem is that the electric pump makes higher pressure than
>>the
>>mechanical pump, so I'd have to do some kind of electronic or
>>mechanical
>>latch, to keep the pump on, rather than having it cycle on and off
>>every
>>couple of seconds.
>>
>>Any thoughts?
>>
>>
>
>This is a problem I would solve mechanically rather than electrically.
>I would have an overpressure relief valve that just shunts the fuel
>back to the inlet of the most-upstream pump. That would keep the
>pressure at the inlet to your fuel metering system (carb, injection
>system, whatever) from rising too high. Now you just turn on the boost
>pump before take-off and don't worry about it.
>
>Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
>brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
>+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Shielded serial cables |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Use Blackbox.com and under products is the custom cable wizard, makes it
much easier. They will make the cable to your specs, and they are not
expensive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Watson
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Shielded serial cables
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
--> <terry@tcwatson.com>
I need to make some short 9 pin serial cables for my Blue Mountain
EFIS/one keyboard and keypad, including a Y connector. Is there any
reason that cables like these need to be shielded? They will be very
close to my nav/com, transponder, and audio panel.
Thanks,
Terry
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
For 20 bucks dont expect much......especially battery powered, and 2 AA'a
at that.
At 06:42 PM 10/19/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
>
>OK Scott, so how is everyone to take your reply, for $20 don't expect it to
>work, or for "only" $20 don't expect much?
>
>
>At 02:29 PM 10/19/04 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> ><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> >$20.....that pretty much answers your question dosent it? On the other hand
> >go ahead and buy it and let us know.
> >
> >
> >At 04:46 PM 10/19/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: echristley@nc.rr.com
> > >
> > >I've been seeing these adds on TV for a battery
> > >operated soldering iron. It's supposed to heat up
> > >and cool down very quickly and only when you stick
> > >solder against the tip.
> > >
> > >Before I send them my $20+SH, I thought I'd ask if
> > >anyone has tried one of these?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >Scott Bilinski
> >Eng dept 305
> >Phone (858) 657-2536
> >Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Rich
Eggenfellner has dual electric pumps that do this same thing for the FWF
package, it is layed out in the install manual, you can download it off
of his site http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/ use the install link to
find it. Gary Newstead designed it and it works well for them
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Richard Riley
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley
--> <richard@riley.net>
I've now seen 2 small airplanes destroyed by engine driven fuel pumps
that failed - one on take off, one on landing - and pilots who didn't
get the backup electrical fuel pump on quickly enough for a re-start.
Yes, they probably should have just had them on for takeoff and landing,
but that wasn't the case.
I'm thinking of wiring my fuel pump with a SPDT switch. Up would be ON,
down would be AUTO. There'd be a pair of pressure switches - one
sensing oil pressure, the other fuel pressure. If the swich was in
auto, there was oil pressure, and fuel pressure fell below a pre-set
limit, the pump would turn on.
Now, one problem is that the electric pump makes higher pressure than
the mechanical pump, so I'd have to do some kind of electronic or
mechanical latch, to keep the pump on, rather than having it cycle on
and off every couple of seconds.
Any thoughts?
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 8
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| Subject: | Shielded serial cables |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:03 AM 10/20/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
><LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>Use Blackbox.com and under products is the custom cable wizard, makes it
>much easier. They will make the cable to your specs, and they are not
>expensive.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
>Watson
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Shielded serial cables
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
>--> <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>I need to make some short 9 pin serial cables for my Blue Mountain
>EFIS/one keyboard and keypad, including a Y connector. Is there any
>reason that cables like these need to be shielded? They will be very
>close to my nav/com, transponder, and audio panel.
Probably not but if they turn out to radiate some noise into
an adjacent system, they're easy to re-make with shielded wire.
I use shielded wire routinely for such cables simply because you
get all the wires you need for the task bundled up into a single
assembly. We stock shielded pairs and trios by the thousands
of feet. Using shielded wire is easier and doesn't hurt
anything . . . I'd go for shielded.
Bob . . .
---
Message 9
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| Subject: | Shielded serial cables |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Terry
I work in a manufacturing environment where space is limited and we have
roll up keyboards for easy storage, if you would like the info email me
direct
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Watson
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Shielded serial cables
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
--> <terry@tcwatson.com>
Thanks, Brian. What I referred to as a keypad is actually a remote
location for the buttons and knobs on the right side of the EFIS screen.
I put them on the left right above the throttle so I can completely
control the EFIS with my left hand and won't have to let go of the stick
in my right hand. I really like the way the combination of four buttons
and two concentric rotating knobs control everything. The keyBOARD
won't be on board unless it's a cross country, and then it will be in
the baggage compartment.
Terry
RV-8A, BMA EFIS/one
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian
Lloyd
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Shielded serial cables
> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Oct 19, 2004, at 6:24 PM, Terry Watson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
> <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> I need to make some short 9 pin serial cables for my Blue Mountain
> EFIS/one keyboard and keypad, including a Y connector. Is there any
> reason that cables like these need to be shielded? They will be very
> close to my nav/com, transponder, and audio panel.
For RS-232, it shouldn't make any difference.
And when are you going to use a keypad in flight? That strikes me as
pretty tough to use while flying your airplane.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Report on auto HID lights for aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
There was some discussion of these lights before, and IIRC, someone pointed out
that the color temperature of the HID lights so closely matched that of the daytime
sky that they were less visible that the yellowish tungsten and halogen
lamps now in common use. Just a potential downside to think about.
Oh, yeah, and the post about the WW2 bombers that used rheostat-adjustable lights
in their leading edges and nose to blend with the daytime sky - probably more
of the same idea.
Looks like we need HID for best light output in a night landing situation, and
tungsten bulbs on a wig-wag for staying out of each other's way in the daytime.
Bummer.
-BB
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
from Richard Riley:
<<I'm thinking of wiring my fuel pump with a SPDT switch. Up would be ON,
down would be AUTO. There'd be a pair of pressure switches - one sensing
oil pressure, the other fuel pressure. If the switch was in auto, there was
oil pressure, and fuel pressure fell below a pre-set limit, the pump would
turn on.
Now, one problem is that the electric pump makes higher pressure than the
mechanical pump, so I'd have to do some kind of electronic or mechanical
latch, to keep the pump on.>>
That's precisely what I'm putting in my ES. There will be a off-auto-on
switch and in the auto mode a fuel pressure switch will turn on a latching
relay that will keep the pump on. Idea is that before engine start you turn
it to "auto" and the pump should come on and stay on - that tests the
latching relay. Then before take-off turn it to auto and it will take care
of itself. There is also a fuel pump light so that you can tell if the fuel
pump turned on during flight. And I'm doing it for exactly the reasons you
stated.
Gary Casey
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Report on auto HID lights for aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
I believe you cannot "wig-wag" HIDs... ?
Carlos
do not archive
--- SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
...
> Looks like we need HID for best light output in a night landing situation, and
tungsten bulbs on
> a wig-wag for staying out of each other's way in the daytime. Bummer.
>
> -BB
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel |
pump?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net> pump?
If it's a mechanically latching relay, and you turn your switch to "off"
after it's been energized, won't it stay on?
At 07:43 AM 10/20/04, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
>That's precisely what I'm putting in my ES. There will be a off-auto-on
>switch and in the auto mode a fuel pressure switch will turn on a latching
>relay that will keep the pump on. Idea is that before engine start you turn
>it to "auto" and the pump should come on and stay on - that tests the
>latching relay. Then before take-off turn it to auto and it will take care
>of itself. There is also a fuel pump light so that you can tell if the fuel
>pump turned on during flight. And I'm doing it for exactly the reasons you
>stated.
>
>Gary Casey
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Report on auto HID lights for |
aircraft
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net> aircraft
Correct. They take several seconds to turn on.
You could do it with LCD shutters. But that would be a touch silly.
At 07:57 AM 10/20/04, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
>I believe you cannot "wig-wag" HIDs... ?
Message 15
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| Subject: | automatic standby fuel pump |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "The Minearts" <smineart@kdsi.net>
William Wynne (flycorvair.com) recently posted info on a dual-electric, automatically
switched fuel pump system which sounds like what was brought up on the
list 10/19. He has been flying with it in his Zodiac and recommends it for the
firewall-forward installation of the Corvair conversion.
Steve M., CH-601under construction
Message 16
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| Subject: | Flap Motor Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Bob,
>Looking at your Schematic for flap system, suppose there are switches for
>the front seater and the back seater, and the front seater is trying to
>lower the flaps and the back seater accidently or otherwise hits the
>"flaps up" switch (the flaps extend relay and the flaps retract relay are
>both actuated at the same time). It appears, according to the schematic,
>that the hot side of the buss will go to both sides of the flap
>motor. What are the consequences of this occurring? Will it damage the
>flap motor? Blow the flap motor fuse?
>
>Thanks.
If you study any of the drawings I do on permanent magnet motor controls,
you will see that with the system in a de-energized state (no pilot commands
in progress) both direction relays are relaxed and the motor has a dead
short
across it. The short is part of dynamic breaking that takes advantage of
a motor's counter-emf generated during spin-down . . . if you load this
energy source with the short, the motor stops much faster. If either
direction
control relay is energized, one side of the motor gets (+) power applied
while
the other one remains at ground . . . the motor will run. If the opposite
relay is energized, then power to the motor reverses polarity and it runs
in the opposite direction.
If the front and rear stick switches are simultaneously actuated for
opposite
directions, then both motor relays are energized. In this case, BOTH motor
leads are elevated to (+) power which means no power is taken from the
ship's
DC power system, the motor has a dead short across it and it comes to a stop
just as surely as when the two relays are de-energized. When one of the
pilots
releases the switch, the motor will run in the direction commanded by
the switch
still closed.
This design insures that conflicting commands are ignored and no motion
takes
place until a single, unambiguous command is presented.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Automatic standby fuel pump |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Frankhsmit@wmconnect.com
I have a RV-4 that has an IO360. The electric fuel pump will increase the
pressure 2 or 3 psi, over the engine pump 15 psi when I turn it on for landing
or takeoff. It has absolutely no affect on anything other than perhaps a
slight increase in fuel flow, maybe from 8.0 gph to 8.1 gph. IMHO hook it up,
turn it on and don't worry about it. Don't make it more complicated than
needed. FWIW Frank
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
My local avionics guy uses a soldering iron that runs off time-expired ELT
battery packs. Appears to work great, and without any longer a heating time
required, either.
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: CoolSolder
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 04:23 PM 10/19/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Burton"
>><dburton@nwlink.com>
>>
>>I really wanted this thing to work. It runs on AA's instead of the
>>expensive rechargeable batteries that my (relatively expensive) portable
>>soldering iron uses. I've tried using it and found it to be worthless.
>>There may be an application that it will work for, but that's not good
>>enough. It needs to be able to solder all of my jobs, not the occasional
>>one.
>>The way it works is to short circuit the 4 AA batteries it uses between
>>the
>>two part tip. The wire or whatever you are trying to solder completes the
>>short circuit. In my experience it does not work. The degree of
>>precision
>>that the tip must be placed and held for it to work is beyond ridiculous.
>>Save your money and buy an Isotip rechargeable if you need a portable
>>iron.
>>I use the large tip for most of what I do. It's not large compared to an
>>electric soldering iron. The tiny tip is great for really small wires but
>>doesn't hold the heat well enough for larger wires.
>
> Aha! I've seen that ad on TV too and was wondering about the technology
> involved. Your description has saved me from having to buy one myself.
>
> The technology you're describing has been around in some form or another
> for over a century and is called "resistance soldering". I've never
> found
> it attractive for my own work but I've known a number of technicians
> who swear by it. I've used it to play with but find temperature
> controlled
> irons much simpler to use. Some examples of the tools can be seen at:
>
> http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Department&ID=81
>
> http://www.torontosurplus.com/redirect.php?middleframe=http://www.torontosurplus.com/ind/ind40.htm
>
> http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80417Ai/american_beauty.html
>
>
> For my money, the premier soldering tools are made by METCAL. Go
> to Ebay and searche on 'metcal'. You'll get about 100 hits
> on solder stations, handles, tips and complete systems. I buy
> the older PS2E power supplies separate. Folks don't seem to covet
> the antique stations as much and when they don't come with handles
> and tips, the prices don't get out of whack. I've picked up
> several power supplies for under $150 and I usually just buy
> new handles and tips from the electronics suppliers. I'll have
> a really good solder station for under $250. But set your price
> limit and bit those ebay systems. You'll probably get one
> eventually and you can't find a finer soldering tool for the
> money anywhere else.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=57012&item=3846728177&rd=1
>
> Here's one that will probably go for under $150
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1504&item=3846698506&rd=1
>
> Here's a real clean one that I'd go up to $250 on.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46413&item=4331721307&rd=1
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ---
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Copper foil antenna question |
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mike_tailwind@att.net
I'm installing a copper foil Nav antenna in the wooden wing of my Tailwind project.
I am placing the foil on the bottom skin. Each leg of the antenna has to
go over two 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide cap strips. Because of this the linear length
of the antenna leg is shortened about 1". What is teh effective lenght with
these "joggles in teh foil? I was planning on 22.8" legs. Do I make them
longer?
Thanks,
Mike Wilson
Message 20
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| Subject: | Response to Copper foil antenna question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jsto1@tampabay.rr.com>
Mike,
You do not want to change the length, since that is how the resonant
frequency is set for the antenna. There may be a slight change is the
reception sensitivity plot but it is minor compared to the potential
shift in the frequency bandwidth.
Jim Stone
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