Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:10 AM - Re: when running my new B&C starter the lights go out (Mark Banus)
2. 06:25 AM - Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? (Gary Casey)
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? (Brian Lloyd)
4. 07:16 AM - Re: Copper foil antenna question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 01:30 PM - Low draw position and strobes? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
6. 02:05 PM - Re: Low draw position and strobes? (Scott Bilinski)
7. 02:14 PM - VHF Comm antennas (Mickey Coggins)
8. 03:04 PM - Re: VHF Comm antennas ()
9. 04:47 PM - Re: Low draw position and strobes? (plaurence@the-beach.net)
10. 09:24 PM - Transponder Antenna (Guy Buchanan)
11. 09:44 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna 0.00 (\)
12. 11:30 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna 0.00 (Guy Buchanan)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: when running my new B&C starter the lights go out |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Banus" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
"I just connected my new B&C starter motor to the electrical system and tested
it
without the flywheel installed. When I engage the starter motor all my gadgets
(GRT EFIS, EIS, Skymap IIIc GPS) don't like this very much and reboot. It looks
to me as if the bus voltage drops too much for them to keep running. This
is only just for the moment when I engage the starter. I kept it running while
it ran all the electronic gizmos come up again fine."
Try this curcuit from Blue Moauntain avionics
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/pdf/Battery%20Backup.pdf
Mark Banus
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
<<Richard Riley
If it's a mechanically latching relay, and you turn your switch to "off"
after it's been energized, won't it stay on?>>
Well, I should have been clearer - it is really electrically latched - when
it turns on, the circuit is closed for the relay that holds it on. When you
turn the switch to the "off" position it is disconnected and the fuel pump
turns off. Function is tested in two ways: Before starting the engine turn
it to "auto" and the pump should turn on and stay on. Start the engine and
turn it to "auto" and it should not turn on. Someone also suggested that
you just manually turn the pump on for takeoff and landing - that would work
just as well, as long as you remember it. Trouble is, I would have a
tendency to wear the $$ pump out by forgetting to shut it off or forgetting
to turn it on every time I was close to the ground, like going over a ridge
or something. And then in an emergency creating a requirement for the pilot
to do certain things is asking for trouble. My airplane partner had an
engine failure with plenty of altitude and the one thing he forgot was to
try the electric pump. It wouldn't have helped, but the point is any of us
can make a mistake or omission at the wrong time and this is one way to
prevent that. The weak link is usually the pilot. At least it is in my
case!
Gary Casey
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rumination: Automatic standby fuel pump? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Oct 21, 2004, at 9:18 AM, Gary Casey wrote:
> Someone also suggested that
> you just manually turn the pump on for takeoff and landing - that
> would work
> just as well, as long as you remember it.
During landing one would use the mnemonic "GUMPS". The first letter
stands for "Gas" which means both fuel selector and fuel pump. Pilots
have been managing this for many years.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good
citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Copper foil antenna question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:13 AM 10/21/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mike_tailwind@att.net
>
>I'm installing a copper foil Nav antenna in the wooden wing of my Tailwind
>project. I am placing the foil on the bottom skin. Each leg of the
>antenna has to go over two 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide cap strips. Because of
>this the linear length of the antenna leg is shortened about 1". What is
>teh effective lenght with these "joggles in teh foil? I was planning on
>22.8" legs. Do I make them longer?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Wilson
I presume you're talking about a composite skin that is not carbon fiber.
The "electrical" length of an antenna and it's "mechanical" or physical
length can be entirely different things. You are correct in wondering
if changes to the shape or proximity to other conductors can have a
measurable effect on antenna performance.
The most elegant way to install such antennas is to make them deliberately
longer by 10% or more . . . and then trim them to proper length after
installation using an antenna analyzer like:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-259B
The strongest installation effects on antennas have more to
do with PATTERNS of sensitivity or best radiation around the
airplane. Antennas with perfectly good performance readings on
an antenna analyzer may have very deep nulls and sharp peaks
in some directions about the aircraft. We do antenna pattern
testing on some of our installations by transmitting a signal
of constant amplitude and then flying the airplane in a flat
turn while broadcasting current heading to a ground station
perhaps 50 miles away.
The ground station converts heading data and signal strength
into a polar plot of antenna performance based on horizontal
bearing. They are anything but circular.
Radiation patterns for ideal antennas not subject to local
influences can be observed at:
https://ewhdbks.mugu.navy.mil/RADIAPAT.HTM
Check out the pattern for a dipole. Your particular
antenna is not covered here . . . it's a folded dipole
having an apex angle less than 180 and more than 90 degrees.
Check out the pattern for this antenna:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna_Pattern.gif
I've seen comm antenna patterns that looked very much like
this one. One might have this antenna installed for years
and think it 'works good' until one day in stable cruise
you cannot contact and RCO that's off your port quarter
that you were talking to just fine a few minutes ago. If that
station falls in 43 degrees bearing from your aircraft,
it now sits in a deep null of the antenna's radiation
pattern. Change heading a few degrees or just wait a few
minutes and the station comes back . . . but it will 'disappear'
again at 62 degrees azimuth.
This antenna may show a 1:1 SWR and appear to be electrically
perfect while having serious dropouts in pattern. Just moving
an antenna a few inches fore/aft on the structure may cause these
nulls to become less pronounced to the extent that the crew
never notices them.
Bottom line is that lacking access to $million$ labs and
technical assistance to know everything there is to know
about our antennas, the next best course of action is to
install it and try it. If there is ever a question as to
pattern issues, the first time you can't hear or talk to
someone you think SHOULD be in range, change heading in
10 degree increments to see if it makes any difference.
Canard pushers with VOR dipoles in the canard get
deep nulls off the ends of the antenna . . . which
we EXPECT.
This is how the "big guys" do it. Now comes the question of
return on investment. For example: if you simply made the antenna
22.8" per leg and didn't consider the possibility that the antenna's
performance might be altered by installation effects, what are the
chances that you would perceive any difference in your VOR receiver's
performance.
The effects of such variables in installation are so tiny that
it usually takes very sensitive laboratory equipment (like
the MFJ-259B) to detect the differences. You're not likely to
perceive any differences by how your radio appears to work.
Short story is, stick it in. Tune it with an analyzer (if
you can put your hands on one) and forget it. Investigate
anomalies as they occur. Probability of needing to touch
it again is quite small.
Bob . . .
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Low draw position and strobes? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
I am trying to work with the supplied alternator of a Rotax 914 in a Europa XS.
Was looking at Kuntzleman Double Magnum driver, that draws ~ 2 amps and will run
2
strobe heads.
Does anyone know of a combo wing tip position light using LEDs or some other low
draw light and a strobe head?
If not, then just a set of wing tip position LEDs and separate strobe head. Or
info
to build one.
Kuntzleman offers a set of streamlined strobe heads, anyone have any experience
with these? They say their driver will drive either aero Flash or whelen strobes.
Thanks for any and all help.
Ron Parigoris
Europa XS
A-265
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Low draw position and strobes? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Try this:
http://www.creativair.com/cva/
At 03:57 PM 10/21/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>I am trying to work with the supplied alternator of a Rotax 914 in a
>Europa XS.
>
>Was looking at Kuntzleman Double Magnum driver, that draws ~ 2 amps and
>will run 2
>strobe heads.
>
>Does anyone know of a combo wing tip position light using LEDs or some
>other low
>draw light and a strobe head?
>
>If not, then just a set of wing tip position LEDs and separate strobe
>head. Or info
>to build one.
>
>Kuntzleman offers a set of streamlined strobe heads, anyone have any
>experience
>with these? They say their driver will drive either aero Flash or whelen
>strobes.
>
>Thanks for any and all help.
>
>Ron Parigoris
>Europa XS
>A-265
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 7
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| Subject: | VHF Comm antennas |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Just started looking at buying a comm antenna, and I'm
surprised to see that they are quite expensive! Besides
ebay, which I have checked, does anyone know of a good
source for decent, used antennas? The perfect one for
me would be the Comant CI-122 (http://www.comant.com/htmls/ci122.html)
or the RAMI AV-17 (http://www.rami.com/gaa1.htm#AV-17),
since I want to bolt them to the bottom of my RV8.
Thanks for any pointers or suggestions.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: VHF Comm antennas |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Mickey,
I got mine from Wentworth Aircraft at Sun N'Fun. Their web site is:
http://www.wentworthaircraft.com/
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Date: 2004/10/21 Thu PM 05:14:18 EDT
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: VHF Comm antennas
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Low draw position and strobes? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Try Eric Jones' web site at
http://www.periheliondesign.com/
Peter
On 21 Oct 2004 at 15:57, Ronald J. Parigoris wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> I am trying to work with the supplied alternator of a Rotax 914 in a
> Europa XS.
>
> Was looking at Kuntzleman Double Magnum driver, that draws ~ 2 amps
> and will run 2 strobe heads.
>
> Does anyone know of a combo wing tip position light using LEDs or some
> other low draw light and a strobe head?
>
> If not, then just a set of wing tip position LEDs and separate strobe
> head. Or info to build one.
>
> Kuntzleman offers a set of streamlined strobe heads, anyone have any
> experience with these? They say their driver will drive either aero
> Flash or whelen strobes.
>
> Thanks for any and all help.
>
> Ron Parigoris
> Europa XS
> A-265
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ====
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Transponder Antenna |
0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Hi all,
I've a Kitfox I'm installing a transponder on. Right now it's a
Becker 4401 / Ack A-30 combo to be installed in the dash. I purchased the
Advanced Aircraft L2 antenna, but now I'm thinking that was a bad idea. The
transponder instructions say to keep the antenna 15' from people as the
transponder is a "high power transmitter". The transponder says don't make
the antenna cable more than 5m long. The antenna documentation says mount
it vertically in the tail, away from any blockages. Well, I've got a
stainless firewall and a carbon seat pan so if I mount it internally in the
tail I'll not only get the full effect of the blast, but the seat and
firewall will presumably block transmission forward. Would I be better off
with the cheap whip sticking out the bottom of the aircraft below my seat?
That way I don't get blasted, there's no blockage, and the cable is much
shorter. Will the shorter cable offset the poorer antenna performance? (I
guess another question is: Is the whip performance less than the dipole?)
Finally, what's the lightest way to do the ground plane. I assume I will
need one since I'm tube and fabric.
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 11
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Received": b.nuckolls@cox.net
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna 0.00 |
FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
At 09:22 PM 10/21/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
>Hi all,
> I've a Kitfox I'm installing a transponder on. Right now it's a
>Becker 4401 / Ack A-30 combo to be installed in the dash. I purchased the
>Advanced Aircraft L2 antenna, but now I'm thinking that was a bad idea. The
>transponder instructions say to keep the antenna 15' from people as the
>transponder is a "high power transmitter".
hangar myth. there are skeptics out there but I'm scheduled into
the lab to make some measurements. watch this space.
> The transponder says don't make
>the antenna cable more than 5m long. The antenna documentation says mount
>it vertically in the tail, away from any blockages. Well, I've got a
>stainless firewall and a carbon seat pan so if I mount it internally in the
>tail I'll not only get the full effect of the blast, but the seat and
>firewall will presumably block transmission forward. Would I be better off
>with the cheap whip sticking out the bottom of the aircraft below my seat?
yes
>
>That way I don't get blasted, there's no blockage, and the cable is much
>shorter. Will the shorter cable offset the poorer antenna performance? (I
>guess another question is: Is the whip performance less than the dipole?)
marginally, yes
>
>Finally, what's the lightest way to do the ground plane. I assume I will
>need one since I'm tube and fabric.
Yes, aluminum or brass disk, 5.2" in diameter. Keep the coax as short
as practical, stick the spike out the belly anywhere handy.
Bbo . . .
---
Message 12
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| From: | "Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received": bnn@nethere.com |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna 0.00 |
FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> FORGED_RCVD_HELO
Received: contains a forged HELO
At 11:44 PM 10/21/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Yes, aluminum or brass disk, 5.2" in diameter. Keep the coax as short
> as practical, stick the spike out the belly anywhere handy.
>
> Bbo . . .
Thanks Bob!
Do not archive
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
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