Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:22 AM - Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage protection (LarryRobertHelming)
2. 04:45 AM - Re: Garmin GPS antenna (DWENSING@aol.com)
3. 05:01 AM - Re: Re: Garmin GPS antenna (Harley)
4. 05:06 AM - Re: Driving electronic rpm meter from both magnetos (Trampas)
5. 05:34 AM - Re: Grommet/bushing like thingy whatsit (Eric M. Jones)
6. 07:16 AM - Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage protection (Werner Schneider)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: Garmin GPS antenna (Gary Craze)
8. 08:37 AM - Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:43 AM - Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:44 AM - Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:55 AM - Re: Crimping tool (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
12. 09:49 AM - Hangar Radios (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
13. 10:01 AM - Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage protection (Werner Schneider)
14. 11:18 AM - Re: Driving electronic rpm meter from both (Charlie Kuss)
15. 12:59 PM - Re: Hangar Radios (SportAV8R@aol.com)
16. 01:34 PM - Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 01:58 PM - Re: Hangar Radios (Matt Prather)
18. 02:01 PM - Re: Hangar Radios (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
19. 03:42 PM - Grounding (Kingsley Hurst)
20. 04:16 PM - Re: Re: EMags (David Shani)
21. 05:04 PM - Re: Re: EMags (Larry Bowen)
22. 08:33 PM - Re: Hangar Radios (Ken)
23. 09:54 PM - Re: Hangar Radios (Tony Babb)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage protection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Just wondering, with the Nuckolls version of ov, what indication do you get
if the cute little warning light burns out? Is that part of the
preflight/startup procedures to test to ensure it is working at least at the
start of a flight? Wouldn't an LED be a better choice for the light?
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denis Walsh" <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage
protection
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
<denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> I have been operating the Niagra Denso 40 for a couple years, probably
> 350 hours or so. I concur it is a great machine.I can't speak for the
> zeff ov thingy. I have the Nuckolls version, which probably does have
> a very rapid response, and uses a huge contactor, which also responds
> fast with a snap. I have most certainly checked the capability of the
> Denso to react to instant unload and it has not fried. This has been
> done several times both inadvertantly and advertantly before I knew it
> was a risk.
>
> One additional thing I would highly recommend is the Nuckolls low
> voltage warning lite. It is cheap, cute, bright, and will remind you
> to turn off the batt switch after flight by flashing in your face. If
> it flashes in flight it will remind you to look for a nearby landing
> site, where they will have an auto shop which can fix or replace your
> denso...
>
> Denis
> On Nov 2, 2004, at 12:36 PM, Christopher Stone wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Christopher Stone
> > <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Good Morning all...
> >
> > We (two RV-8 builders) are at the "add electrical system" point in the
> > construction process. From front to back the first item in question
> > is the alternator. Having followed this list for some time I have
> > concluded the Denso 40 amp alternator is the item that fits our
> > output/weight/simplicity criteria.
> >
> > A search of the archives was less then productive.
> >
> > The question(s):
> >
> > Has anyone installed the Niagara alternater with over volatge
> > protection package.
> >
> > The alternator appears to be a standard Denso with internal
> > regulation. The overvoltage protection is by Zeftronics.
> >
> > http://www.niagaraairparts.com/ASP101-PIT%201.pdf
> >
> > The overvoltage circuit appears to function by sensing alternator
> > output voltage. When the voltage exceeds the preset threshold it then
> > opens a contactor in series with the alternator output.
> >
> > This looks like it will work... A couple of questions though.
> >
> > What is the time constant of the circuit? Is it fast enough to catch
> > an overvoltage event before it can damage black boxes?
> >
> > Since it instantly unloads the alternator, if the alternator wasn't
> > already fried which caused the overvoltage event, wouldn't it be fried
> > by the sudden loss of load?
> >
> > Thanks in advance...
> >
> > This list has been a gold mine of information!
> >
> > Chris Stone
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
Bob and GPS savvy lister,
I have a remote mount Garmin GPS antenna, model GA 26C, that came with my 295
about 5 years ago. Have never tried using it until now. It does not work!
Garmin says they do not service antennas and my option is to buy a new one for
$100.
Is there any way to check out a GPS antenna (like resistance value) before I
try opening the case and examining for broken wire, etc.?
Dale Ensing
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
Morning, Dale...
First, it's not just an antenna...it's also an amplifier of sorts. But,
if it really is faulty, it may be a better choice to get one of these
units instead of Garmin...I think you'll find they are basically the
same thing.
http://www.gpsgeek.com/page3.html
Harley Dixon
DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>Bob and GPS savvy lister,
>
>I have a remote mount Garmin GPS antenna, model GA 26C, that came with my 295
>about 5 years ago. Have never tried using it until now. It does not work!
>Garmin says they do not service antennas and my option is to buy a new one for
>$100.
>Is there any way to check out a GPS antenna (like resistance value) before I
>try opening the case and examining for broken wire, etc.?
>
>Dale Ensing
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Driving electronic rpm meter from both magnetos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Brian,
I remember seeing the capacitor coupling system some where:
www.rkymtn.com/minstall.pdf. So basically it does work with the Rocky
Mountain instrument.
The reason it works is the low frequency component of the p-leads signals
are relatively in phase, other wise your timing is wrong on one or both
magnetos.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Lloyd
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Driving electronic rpm meter from both
magnetos
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
On Nov 2, 2004, at 10:11 PM, Trampas wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
> I think we have beat the horse pretty well. So it basically boils down
> to
> "it depends on the tachometer."
Almost. I don't think you can combine the signals from the two p-leads
without significant preprocessing. And once you do that the rest is
cake.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Grommet/bushing like thingy whatsit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
On my website I sell Panduit's Lightening Hole Wire Mounts. These take a lot
of hassle out of stringing wires through rib and bulkhead lightening holes.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
(Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage protection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
When you switch on the OV/Low Voltage light will be on(I've replaced it with
a LED)
So that is your test.
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage
protection
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> Just wondering, with the Nuckolls version of ov, what indication do you
get
> if the cute little warning light burns out? Is that part of the
> preflight/startup procedures to test to ensure it is working at least at
the
> start of a flight? Wouldn't an LED be a better choice for the light?
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
> The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
> in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
> in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
> - Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Denis Walsh" <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage
> protection
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
> <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
> >
> > I have been operating the Niagra Denso 40 for a couple years, probably
> > 350 hours or so. I concur it is a great machine.I can't speak for the
> > zeff ov thingy. I have the Nuckolls version, which probably does have
> > a very rapid response, and uses a huge contactor, which also responds
> > fast with a snap. I have most certainly checked the capability of the
> > Denso to react to instant unload and it has not fried. This has been
> > done several times both inadvertantly and advertantly before I knew it
> > was a risk.
> >
> > One additional thing I would highly recommend is the Nuckolls low
> > voltage warning lite. It is cheap, cute, bright, and will remind you
> > to turn off the batt switch after flight by flashing in your face. If
> > it flashes in flight it will remind you to look for a nearby landing
> > site, where they will have an auto shop which can fix or replace your
> > denso...
> >
> > Denis
> > On Nov 2, 2004, at 12:36 PM, Christopher Stone wrote:
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Christopher Stone
> > > <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Good Morning all...
> > >
> > > We (two RV-8 builders) are at the "add electrical system" point in the
> > > construction process. From front to back the first item in question
> > > is the alternator. Having followed this list for some time I have
> > > concluded the Denso 40 amp alternator is the item that fits our
> > > output/weight/simplicity criteria.
> > >
> > > A search of the archives was less then productive.
> > >
> > > The question(s):
> > >
> > > Has anyone installed the Niagara alternater with over volatge
> > > protection package.
> > >
> > > The alternator appears to be a standard Denso with internal
> > > regulation. The overvoltage protection is by Zeftronics.
> > >
> > > http://www.niagaraairparts.com/ASP101-PIT%201.pdf
> > >
> > > The overvoltage circuit appears to function by sensing alternator
> > > output voltage. When the voltage exceeds the preset threshold it then
> > > opens a contactor in series with the alternator output.
> > >
> > > This looks like it will work... A couple of questions though.
> > >
> > > What is the time constant of the circuit? Is it fast enough to catch
> > > an overvoltage event before it can damage black boxes?
> > >
> > > Since it instantly unloads the alternator, if the alternator wasn't
> > > already fried which caused the overvoltage event, wouldn't it be fried
> > > by the sudden loss of load?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance...
> > >
> > > This list has been a gold mine of information!
> > >
> > > Chris Stone
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Craze" <garycraze@hotmail.com>
I'll second that. The external antenna that came with my 295 stank.
There are a lot of good, external amplified antennas out there that work
much better. I got one off eBay about a year ago for $20.
Here's an example...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34289&item=572928
7376&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
It performs much, much better than the external antenna that came with
my 295.
Regards,
Gary
N801GC (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Harley
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Garmin GPS antenna
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley
--> <harley@agelesswings.com>
Morning, Dale...
First, it's not just an antenna...it's also an amplifier of sorts. But,
if it really is faulty, it may be a better choice to get one of these
units instead of Garmin...I think you'll find they are basically the
same thing.
http://www.gpsgeek.com/page3.html
Harley Dixon
DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>Bob and GPS savvy lister,
>
>I have a remote mount Garmin GPS antenna, model GA 26C, that came with
>my 295
>about 5 years ago. Have never tried using it until now. It does not
work!
>Garmin says they do not service antennas and my option is to buy a new
one for
>$100.
>Is there any way to check out a GPS antenna (like resistance value)
before I
>try opening the case and examining for broken wire, etc.?
>
>Dale Ensing
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage |
protection
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
protection
At 11:36 AM 11/2/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Christopher Stone
><rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>
>Good Morning all...
>
>We (two RV-8 builders) are at the "add electrical system" point in the
>construction process. From front to back the first item in question is
>the alternator. Having followed this list for some time I have concluded
>the Denso 40 amp alternator is the item that fits our
>output/weight/simplicity criteria.
>
>A search of the archives was less then productive.
>
>The question(s):
>
>Has anyone installed the Niagara alternater with over volatge protection
>package.
>
>The alternator appears to be a standard Denso with internal
>regulation. The overvoltage protection is by Zeftronics.
>
>http://www.niagaraairparts.com/ASP101-PIT%201.pdf
>
>The overvoltage circuit appears to function by sensing alternator output
>voltage. When the voltage exceeds the preset threshold it then opens a
>contactor in series with the alternator output.
We published techniques for adding OV protection to
alternators having built in regulators a number of years
ago. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bleadov.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
>This looks like it will work... A couple of questions though.
>
>What is the time constant of the circuit? Is it fast enough to catch an
>overvoltage event before it can damage black boxes?
Depends on the ov sensor circuit. First, let's define "fast enough".
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/MSTD704_28V_OV.jpg
This is an excerpt from Mil-STD-704 on aircraft power quality
where we're advised that one should EXPECT bus voltage conditions
that lie between the upper and lower curves as part of NORMAL
operation. This graph is for 28v system, cut the voltages in
half for a 14v system. Many OV sensor systems are TOO FAST
in that they nuisance trip when presented with conditions that
live between the upper and lower curves. OV conditions are
a function of generator/regulator issues and have a little
different nature than transient conditions originating from
other sources.
Consider also:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/MSTD704_28V_Trans.jpg
This graph speaks to transient conditions one should expect
as a normal operating condition on the bus. Again, cut
the voltage values on the left in half.
And finally take a peek at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/MSTD704_28V_Noise.jpg
This graph speaks to noise from the power generation system
and/or other appliances that take power from the bus. The
peek noise in the middle is 1 Vrms (3v pk-pk) on a 28v
system or roughly 10% pk-pk noise for a system. This means
that a 14v system can be expected to have as much as 1.5
volts peak-peak trash in the range from 1000 to 5000 Hz
with the amplitude falling off either side as depicted.
Any device, including OV sensors, need to be designed
with these conditions in mind. For OV sensors, one wants
to respond as quickly as practical for any real OV condition
but to adequately ignore the things that normally go
"bump" on the bus.
>Since it instantly unloads the alternator, if the alternator wasn't
>already fried which caused the overvoltage event, wouldn't it be fried by
>the sudden loss of load?
Maybe. An issue surfaced a few months ago when Vans
began recommending AGAINST adding ov protection as depicted
in our drawings. Seems a few builders had managed to
zing the voltage regulators in Vans-supplied alternators
by turning them on/off while loaded.
The drawings have been published on the AeroElectric
website for at least 6 years and we're not hearing
about alternators dropping like flies. There are
studies and plans for investigating the phenomenon
in more detail but they're back-burner projects. My
sense at the moment is that rebuilt alternators with
aftermarket regulators installed may be at-risk for
load-dump damage. I'd like to believe that Nipon Denso
recognizes the risk of load-dump damage and designs
their factory stock regulators to stand off the transient.
It's a sure bet that ND has their own, in-house
equivalents of the Mil-STD-704 data I cited above.
Bottom line is that your $risk$ to the system is far
greater for NOT having ov protection than for leaving
it off in favor of coddling a sub-standard alternator.
The wiring diagrams for adding external ov protection
on internally regulated alternators will be modified to
add the appropriate transient suppressor so that
the technique will function worry-free for even the
most wimpish of after-market regulators.
The short answer to your original question is: Don't
know a thing about design philosophy behind the ov
sensor cited in the Niagara Airparts installation but
it's a reasonable bet that the part was developed originally
for a certified system by folks who had some idea of what
the requirements were.
Bob . . .
---
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage |
protection
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
protection
At 06:22 AM 11/3/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
><lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>Just wondering, with the Nuckolls version of ov, what indication do you get
>if the cute little warning light burns out? Is that part of the
>preflight/startup procedures to test to ensure it is working at least at the
>start of a flight? Wouldn't an LED be a better choice for the light?
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The system we offer as both assembled and do-it-yourself
projects is described at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/MSTD704_28V_Noise.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/lvwarn/9021-620.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9005/9005.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9005/9005-701B.pdf
When purchased from us, the device IS supplied with an LED
fixture. Further, it's not an OVER voltage sensor but a
LOW voltage sensor. It begins to flash every time you
power up the bus before starting the engine and therefore
meets the desire of regulators for certified systems for
adequate pre-flight testing. Of course, one could turn
an alternator OFF at any time to see if the low voltage
light comes on . . .
Bob . . .
---
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage |
protection
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
protection
At 04:15 PM 11/3/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
>
>When you switch on the OV/Low Voltage light will be on(I've replaced it with
>a LED)
>So that is your test.
>
>Werner
What did you "replace"? If you bought it from me, it came
with an LED.
Bob . . .
---
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Crimping tool |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
Bob, I have a question for you. I am looking for a wire stripper than can
strip wire around 6 or even 4 gauge wire. Do you know where to look to purchase
a stripper like this?
Thanks,
Mike
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Folks, this is extremely obliquely building-oriented, but I know the answer
is here so here goes...
My new hangar faces away from almost all AM & FM stations I like to listen to
on my cheap ghetto-blaster. I can get the FM by poking the antenna out the
door, but the AM is, as described here often, very much line-of-sight. I
"think" the AM antenna is not connected to the external telescoping antenna, as
it
makes no difference in being in/out/extended/pointed anywhere in particular.
Any suggestions short of getting a different hangar? GOTTA have my AM!
Thanks and do not archive
Mark
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage protection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sorry Bob,
I was referring to the Voltage Regulator from B&C which has an inbuilt OV
protection and came with the light bulb, I replaced it acceding to your
sketch with a LED together with the two resistors.
Should read more careful next time
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III protection" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage
protection
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<b.nuckolls@cox.net> protection
>
> At 04:15 PM 11/3/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
<glastar@gmx.net>
> >
> >When you switch on the OV/Low Voltage light will be on(I've replaced it
with
> >a LED)
> >So that is your test.
> >
> >Werner
>
> What did you "replace"? If you bought it from me, it came
> with an LED.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Driving electronic rpm meter from both |
magnetos
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> magnetos
Instead of all these electronic gyrations you are going through, why not do
this instead? Forget using the mags as a signal source. Mount a hall effect
sensor on the rear of the flywheel. Use that as the tach's signal. With
this setup, you can have an combination of mags, electronic ignitions.
etc. The ignition design won't matter one wit! I know my RMI MicroMonitor
offers this option to drive the tach.
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><b.nuckolls@cox.net> magnetos
>
>At 12:03 PM 11/1/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> ><chaztuna@adelphia.net> magnetos
> >
> >
> > >snipped
> > > > I'd use resistors but only read one mag at a time and use the
> > > > resistors to prevent fault on tachometer wiring from taking
> > > > a magneto down.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>I wonder if you have a recommended diagram for driving an
> electronic rpm
> > > >>meter from both magnetos?
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > Sure. See
> > > >
> > > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Engine/Mags_with_Electronic_Tach.pdf
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bob . . .
> >
> >Bob
> > I just tried the link, but there was nothing there
> >Charlie Kuss
>
> You missed the second link for revision A:
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Engine/Mags_with_Electronic_Tach_A.pdf
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>---
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Hangar Radios |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Mark-
most likely the AM antenna in your boom box is of the ferrite rod type, consisting
of a number of turns of fine wire wrapped around a ferrite stick, and coupled
to some more turns which may in turn connect to the telescoping whip antenna.
This arrangement serves as an impedance matching transformer to couple a
very electrically short whip antenna to the radio's input stage. Since the antenna
is so electrically short at the frequencies on which it is receiving, the
physical direction it is pointed makes (predictably) no real difference in sig
strength... the best way to pull in weak stations would be to turn the entire
radio cabninet until ideal aiming of the ferrite rod itself is attained. For
best results, get the radio outside of a metal building and away from noisy
AC mains.
IIRC, the rod inside the radio box should point toward (not broadside to) the station
of interest. Good luck getting your Rush / Hannity fix ;-)
-Stormy
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Niagara/Denso Alternator Overvoltage |
protection
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
protection
At 07:00 PM 11/3/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
>
>Sorry Bob,
>
>I was referring to the Voltage Regulator from B&C which has an inbuilt OV
>protection and came with the light bulb, I replaced it acceding to your
>sketch with a LED together with the two resistors.
>
>Should read more careful next time
Oh, okay. Now I understand. Thanks!
Bob . . .
---
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Hangar Radios |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Actually, the 'AM-ness' of the signal isn't really related to the 'line-of-
site-ness.' The reason the reception of the comm radios in our airplanes
is line of site is the operating frequency (VHF, 118MHz-136MHz). AM
broadcast radio is much lower frequency - 530kHz -1700 kHz (0.53MHz -
1.7MHz), and is typically much better at bending around and over obstacles.
The lower frequency of the signals means that you need a physically longer
antenna to get best reception. As well, AM is susceptible to certain kinds
of interference the FM rejects.
You might try an inductively coupled booster antenna to work with the
internal
antenna that your boombox has. A buddy of mine here at work uses one
similar to this with good results. Its kind of spendy though...
http://www.onecall.com/PID_4536.htm
Regards,
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Folks, this is extremely obliquely building-oriented, but I know the
> answer is here so here goes...
>
> My new hangar faces away from almost all AM & FM stations I like to
> listen to on my cheap ghetto-blaster. I can get the FM by poking the
> antenna out the door, but the AM is, as described here often, very much
> line-of-sight. I "think" the AM antenna is not connected to the
> external telescoping antenna, as it makes no difference in being
> in/out/extended/pointed anywhere in particular. Any suggestions short
> of getting a different hangar? GOTTA have my AM!
>
> Thanks and do not archive
> Mark
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Hangar Radios |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/03/2004 3:00:53 PM Central Standard Time,
SportAV8R@aol.com writes:
Good luck getting your Rush / Hannity fix ;-)
>>>>
Oh NEVER! I want my NPR! 8)
Mark do not archive
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
Bob,
I will have my battery forward of the firewall and within 200mm (8") of
the engine ground stud. I will also have a firewall ground kit (B&C) on
the composite firewall no more than 300mm (12") from the battery.
In connecting up the earth straps which routing method would you prefer?
1) Battery -ive, Firewall Gnd, Engine Gnd
or
2) Battery -ive, Engine Gnd, Firewall Gnd
or
3) Battery -ive to Firewall Gnd and another Battery -ive to Engine Gnd
Left to my own devices I would choose No 2 because I think it is the
most likely way to prevent the smoking behind the panel problem you
cited. Also, I think I would use a continuous strap with a third flag
terminal somewhere in the middle so that in the event of the connection
at the engine coming loose, I would still have battery power. I am well
aware that losing battery power in my little VFR aircraft would not
really matter, nevertheless, if there is such a thing as 'best practice'
in this case, I would prefer to adopt it.
Thanks again in anticipation of your valued assistance.
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Shani" <David.Shani@sanmina-sci.com>
<snip>
I wish them well and hope we get lots of happy feedback
from their first couple of years worth of customers.
Bob . . .
Any real live (customer flying) operational data on the E/P-Mags so far?
Thanks,
David Shani
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I emailed them this past Sunday asking for lead times, but never heard back.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Shani [mailto:David.Shani@sanmina-sci.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 7:16 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RE: EMags
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Shani"
> --> <David.Shani@sanmina-sci.com>
>
> <snip>
>
> I wish them well and hope we get lots of happy feedback
> from their first couple of years worth of customers.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> Any real live (customer flying) operational data on the
> E/P-Mags so far?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> David Shani
>
>
> =========
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Hangar Radios |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on juliet.albedo.net
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Which way the radio is pointing matters of course. However I found that
in my metal building, putting the radio on a plastic bucket about one
foot off the floor solves the problem for me. Can't explain it but
anything higher and the signal fades in and out and is not good enough
to listen to... Maybe something to do with getting it farther from the
fluorescent lights??
Ken
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Folks, this is extremely obliquely building-oriented, but I know the answer
>is here so here goes...
>
>My new hangar faces away from almost all AM & FM stations I like to listen to
>on my cheap ghetto-blaster. I can get the FM by poking the antenna out the
>door, but the AM is, as described here often, very much line-of-sight. I
>"think" the AM antenna is not connected to the external telescoping antenna, as
it
>makes no difference in being in/out/extended/pointed anywhere in particular.
>Any suggestions short of getting a different hangar? GOTTA have my AM!
>
>Thanks and do not archive
>Mark
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Hangar Radios |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Babb" <tonybabb@alejandra.net>
Ok, I know I should read the 'connection about this but I have a similar
problem pulling in FM stations in my garage where I build most evenings. My
radio has an external antenna jack, does this have to be outside my garage
or is it sufficient to simply use an external antenna assuming it's better
than the telescoping one that's currently there?
Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Hangar Radios
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Mark-
>
> most likely the AM antenna in your boom box is of the ferrite rod type,
consisting of a number of turns of fine wire wrapped around a ferrite stick,
and coupled to some more turns which may in turn connect to the telescoping
whip antenna. This arrangement serves as an impedance matching transformer
to couple a very electrically short whip antenna to the radio's input stage.
Since the antenna is so electrically short at the frequencies on which it is
receiving, the physical direction it is pointed makes (predictably) no real
difference in sig strength... the best way to pull in weak stations would be
to turn the entire radio cabninet until ideal aiming of the ferrite rod
itself is attained. For best results, get the radio outside of a metal
building and away from noisy AC mains.
>
> IIRC, the rod inside the radio box should point toward (not broadside to)
the station of interest. Good luck getting your Rush / Hannity fix ;-)
>
> -Stormy
>
>
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