AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Fri 12/03/04


Total Messages Posted: 14



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:07 AM - Re: RG-400 connector (Ken)
     2. 05:26 AM - Re: RG-400 connector clamav-milter version 0.80j on juliet.albedo.net (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
     3. 06:07 AM - Re: Re: RG-400 connector clamav-milter version 0.80j on juliet.albedo.net (Bobby Hester)
     4. 07:18 AM - ELT Antenna length (Mickey Coggins)
     5. 08:41 AM - Toggle Switch Knob (James Redmon)
     6. 09:15 AM - Alternator Off During Start Up? (923te)
     7. 09:57 AM - Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (Brian Lloyd)
     8. 10:47 AM - Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (Mickey Coggins)
     9. 01:31 PM - Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (Matthew Brandes)
    10. 02:01 PM - Stereo Headphone jacks (Gary Liming)
    11. 02:46 PM - Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (John Grosse)
    12. 04:00 PM - Re: ELT Antenna length (Charlie Kuss)
    13. 05:54 PM - Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (Bob White)
    14. 06:20 PM - Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (Richard Riley)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:07:46 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: RG-400 connector
    clamav-milter version 0.80j on juliet.albedo.net --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> Hi Lucky I believe that the standard BNC connectors for (one not both) either RG58 or RG59 fit RG400 but I don't remember which one it is. Hopefully someone will tell us. Ken lucky wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > >I bought some RG-400 cable for my VHF Comm with connectors already on. But the wire length is turning out to be about twice what's actually needed. >Is there a RG-400 specific crimp on BNC connector type I should specifically ask for? ie, is this going to be a Radio Shack item or should I turn to mail order for this one? >TIA, >Lucky > > >I bought some RG-400 cable for my VHF Comm with connectors already on. But the wire length is turning out to be about twice what's actually needed. > > >Is there a RG-400 specific crimp on BNCconnector type I should specifically ask for? ie, is this going to be a Radio Shack item or should I turn to mail order for this one? > > >TIA, > > >Lucky > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:26:43 AM PST US
    From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
    Subject: Re: RG-400 connector clamav-milter version 0.80j on
    juliet.albedo.net --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) yeah, that's the kind of detailed info I am still looking for since I've been told the cable is designed differently than RG-58 so I thought there was a good chance the connector might be slightly different. I got back advise on tools but not the connector type info I originally asked for... -------------- Original message -------------- > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken > > Hi Lucky > I believe that the standard BNC connectors for (one not both) either > RG58 or RG59 fit RG400 but I don't remember which one it is. Hopefully > someone will tell us. > Ken > > > lucky wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > > >I bought some RG-400 cable for my VHF Comm with connectors already on. But the > wire length is turning out to be about twice what's actually needed. > >Is there a RG-400 specific crimp on BNC connector type I should specifically > ask for? ie, is this going to be a Radio Shack item or should I turn to mail > order for this one? > >TIA, > >Lucky > > > > > >I bought some RG-400 cable for my VHF Comm with connectors already on. But the > wire length is turning out to be about twice what's actually needed. > > > > > >Is there a RG-400 specific crimp on BNCconnector type I should specifically ask > for? ie, is this going to be a Radio Shack item or should I turn to mail order > for this one? > > > > > >TIA, > > > > > >Lucky > > > > > > > > > > > > yeah, that's the kind of detailed info I am still looking for since I've been told thecable is designed differently than RG-58 so I thought there was a good chance the connector might be slightly different. I got back advise on tools but not the connector type info I originally asked for... -------------- Original message -------------- -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <KLEHMAN@ALBEDO.NET> Hi Lucky I believe that the standard BNC connectors for (one not both) either RG58 or RG59 fit RG400 but I don't remember which one it is. Hopefully someone will tell us. Ken lucky wrote: -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) I bought some RG-400 cable for my VHF Comm with connectors already on. But the wire length is turning out to be about twice what's actually needed. Is there a RG-400 specific crimp on BNC connector type I should specifically ask for? ie, is this going to be a Radio Shack item or should I turn to mail order for this one? TIA, <B R> Lucky I bought some RG-400 cable for my VHF Comm with connectors already on. But the wire length is turning out to be about twice what's actually needed. Is there a RG-400 specific crimp on BNCconnector type I should specifically ask for? ie, is this going to be a Radio Shack item or should I turn to mail order for this one? TIA, Lucky fts provided by the Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:07:06 AM PST US
    From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
    Subject: Re: RG-400 connector clamav-milter version 0.80j
    on juliet.albedo.net --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net> > -----Original Message----- > From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Date: Fri, 03 Dec 2004 13:23 (CDT) > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RG-400 connector clamav-milter version 0.80j > on juliet.albedo.net > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > yeah, that's the kind of detailed info I am still looking for since I've > been told the cable is designed differently than RG-58 so I thought there > was a good chance the connector might be slightly different. I got back > advise on tools but not the connector type info I originally asked for... > http://www.steinair.com/connectors.htm 3 Piece BNC Male Crimp Connector for RG400 & RG58 Coax Cable. by Amphenol ------- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:18:33 AM PST US
    From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
    Subject: ELT Antenna length
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch> Hi, I'm having trouble finding a good place to put my ELT antenna, and I'd like to know if I can shorten the antenna that came with my ELT. I've read through the archives, which seem to have conflicting information. I've read that a rubber duckie antenna will work, but it will take more power than the antenna that came with the Ameriking ELT. Is this correct? Anyone have a good source for these rubber duckie antennas? I calculated the recommended length of the ELT 121.5 MHz quarter-wave antenna to be about 24.3 inches (299,792,458 meters/second / 121.5MHz / 4 = .6168569 meters). Does this sound right? I guess this assumes a good ground plane, which I won't have if I mount this thing under the VS. I need to shorten the antenna to fit under my VS, since that seems to be where Van's installs them on the RV8. I can't find a better place for this thing. Some people have installed them under the right elbow of the passenger, but that does not seem much better than the tail. Any and all suggestions welcome! Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:41:09 AM PST US
    From: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
    Subject: Toggle Switch Knob
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com> All, I have a MS24659-21A toggle switch being used for the landing gear select switch. It's the lock up/lock down variety toggle switch with the large "bat" lever. I have seen small "gear wheel" shaped knobs (a little over an 1" in diameter) that can be attached to the switch lever itself making the assembly look like a production gear selector switch. I would like to add that to my bird. Does anyone know a part number or where to search for that "wheel shaped" knob to fit that style toggle switch? You can see what my current install looks like at: http://www.berkut13.com/intior35.jpg James Redmon Berkut #013 N97TX http://www.berkut13.com


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:15:17 AM PST US
    From: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
    Subject: Alternator Off During Start Up?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net> I searched the archives for a response to this AOPA article from April 2003 and found none. Anyone have an opinion about the practice of starting on battery only, with alternator turned off? Should we be starting with the alternator off? Thanks, Ned April 2003 Article "Charge It!" by Steven W. Ells (Second from last paragraph: ) "Many pilots with split master switches have modified the owners manual starting procedure by leaving the alternator half of the switch in the Off position until after the start sequence. After starting, but before turning on any other equipment such as radios or lights, the pilot turns on the alternator half of the switch and checks for positive movement of the ammeter needle. This verifies that the charging system is online. Engine starting is a time when the contactors that control large current flows are opening and closing. The potential for large voltage spikes ripping through the electrical system is very high during this brief moment. Since rectifiers, switches, and other solid state devices are adversely affected by spikes, it's a good idea to isolate charging-system components during starting - unless you have a generator on your airplane."


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:57:26 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Alternator Off During Start Up?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com> On Dec 3, 2004, at 1:17 PM, 923te wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net> > > I searched the archives for a response to this AOPA article from April > 2003 and found none. Anyone have an opinion about the practice of > starting on battery only, with alternator turned off? Should we be > starting with the alternator off? The only down side to starting with the alternator on is the 5A or so drain on the battery to energize the field circuit during the period of time that the engine is not rotating, i.e. between the time the battery master is turned on and the engine is started. Given the 200A or so drain by the starter, the extra 5A drain just doesn't seem that crucial. > and checks for positive movement of the ammeter needle. This verifies > that the charging system is online. This isn't a bad thing but you can just turn the alternator switch off then on to verify that the alternator is working. Of course, if the buss voltage is 13.5V or so you already know that the alternator is working. > Engine starting is a time when the contactors that control large > current flows are opening and closing. The potential for large > voltage spikes ripping through the electrical system is very high > during this brief moment. Oh, what hogwash. When you turn on a big load the voltage goes down, not up. I think we have already learned that there aren't 'spikes ripping through the electrical system.' Bob has the 'scope traces to show that. Do people ever bother to do any research? > Since rectifiers, switches, and other solid state devices are > adversely affected by spikes, it's a good idea to isolate > charging-system components during starting - unless you have a > generator on your airplane." Oh, what hogwash. Has anyone noticed that alternators and charging systems rarely fail? Let's look at automobiles. Lots more of them than airplanes and they have even less protection for their charging systems. I don't see alternators in cars dropping like flies. One thing I learned a long time ago is the most of the problems you can think up aren't real. Bah! Humbug! Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201 +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802 I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . . Antoine de Saint-Exupry


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:47:09 AM PST US
    From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
    Subject: Re: Alternator Off During Start Up?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch> >Oh, what hogwash. When you turn on a big load the voltage goes down, >not up. I think we have already learned that there aren't 'spikes >ripping through the electrical system.' Bob has the 'scope traces to >show that. Do people ever bother to do any research? I love it when Old Wife's Tales get blown out of the water. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:31:46 PM PST US
    From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
    Subject: RE: Alternator Off During Start Up?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com> I was thinking of a similar thing... but with a twist. Instead of having a seperate avionics master switch (I don't think Bob likes these), could you use a 3-pole, 3-position switch (like the 2-10 with an extra pole)? Flip to middle position for start (battery only) then flip up to 3rd position to turn on the Alternator and ALSO the avionics. (Don't shoot me.. I'm just starting to wrap my head around all this electrical stuff... I have some other questions but need to read through the book and archives first before I embarrass myself.) Matthew RV-9A Finish Kit


    Message 10


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    Time: 02:01:26 PM PST US
    From: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
    Subject: Stereo Headphone jacks
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org> Sorry if this information has been previously covered, but a search in the archives didn't turn up an answer to the following two questions: 1. When a mono headset is plugged into a stereo jack, one of the channels gets grounded (gets connected to the plug sleeve, which also is the jack ground.) I am using the Stereo Iso Amp of Aeroelectric Connection to drive the phones, so is it ok for the amp to run for long periods with one of the channels like this? (Most of the time there will be stereo phones used, but I am building a 4 seater, and the rear seats may have to accommodate an occasional mono headset.) 2. When wiring the stereo jacks, does the audio ground really need to be separate from the shield? In other words, is 3 conductor wire + shield necessary, or will 2 conductor + shield be just as noise immune? Note, I am not grounding the shield locally, it is run back for connection to the amp, and the jacks are isolated from frame ground. Thanks in advance, Gary Liming


    Message 11


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    Time: 02:46:47 PM PST US
    From: John Grosse <grosseair@ameritech.net>
    Subject: Re: Alternator Off During Start Up?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Grosse <grosseair@ameritech.net> Okay, I don't want to start another war here, and please don't shoot me if I turn out to be wrong, but... The issue with taking the alternator off line with a separate switch during startup as I understand it is not voltage spikes. So far I agree with the debunkers. The issue is the alternator trying to supply 200 amps to the starter which, of course, it can't do. This, as I've been led to understand, is not a good thing for the alternator because it creates an overload or something? I don't totally understand the dynamics inside the alternator, but it supposedly stress something in there out and causes premature failures. As far as the "automobiles don't do it" argument goes... I'm not so sure they don't actually do it. They just do it automatically for you. When you turn the key to energize the starter power is shut off to all the accessories... and the alternator?? A little empirical data... I went through 2 alternators in about a 1000 hrs before I put in a split switch. Since I put in the switch I've had no failures... knock on wood. Whatever is going on in our airplanes sure causes the alternator to fail a lot more often than in our cars, and it's not just vibration. Mickey Coggins wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch> > > > > >>Oh, what hogwash. When you turn on a big load the voltage goes down, >>not up. I think we have already learned that there aren't 'spikes >>ripping through the electrical system.' Bob has the 'scope traces to >>show that. Do people ever bother to do any research? >> >> > >I love it when Old Wife's Tales get blown out of the water. > > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 04:00:21 PM PST US
    From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
    Subject: Re: ELT Antenna length
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> Mickey Best location I've seen so far is on the right side of the pilot's seat back weldment. I spotted an RV-8 at Sun N' Fun with this setup. I took a photo of it, but can't seem to find it now! :-( Charlie Kuss >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins ><mick-matronics@rv8.ch> > >Hi, > >I'm having trouble finding a good place to put my ELT >antenna, and I'd like to know if I can shorten the >antenna that came with my ELT. I've read through >the archives, which seem to have conflicting information. >I've read that a rubber duckie antenna will work, but >it will take more power than the antenna that came with >the Ameriking ELT. Is this correct? Anyone have a good >source for these rubber duckie antennas? > >I calculated the recommended length of the ELT 121.5 MHz >quarter-wave antenna to be about 24.3 inches >(299,792,458 meters/second / 121.5MHz / 4 = .6168569 meters). >Does this sound right? I guess this assumes a good >ground plane, which I won't have if I mount this thing under the VS. > >I need to shorten the antenna to fit under >my VS, since that seems to be where Van's installs >them on the RV8. I can't find a better place for this >thing. Some people have installed them under the right >elbow of the passenger, but that does not seem much >better than the tail. > >Any and all suggestions welcome! > >Thanks, >Mickey > > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 05:54:00 PM PST US
    From: "Bob White" <bob@whitek.com>
    Subject: Re: Alternator Off During Start Up?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob White" <bob@whitek.com> Automobiles live with a thing called "load dump" or "load dump transient," where if something shuts off or a wire breaks, the alternator output voltage will jump way up momentarily. I forget if they design to 40 or 70 volts, and somewhere in the car or an accessory is a huge zener to limit overvoltage beyond that. Try googling "load dump" for more info (a guess, I haven't bothered). To me, the surprising thing was that the battery doesn't filter the transient. I guess, while the battery is a lot like a big capacitor, it does have internal resistance which limits its response time. Bob White ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Grosse" <grosseair@ameritech.net> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Alternator Off During Start Up? --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Grosse <grosseair@ameritech.net> Okay, I don't want to start another war here, and please don't shoot me if I turn out to be wrong, but... The issue with taking the alternator off line with a separate switch during startup as I understand it is not voltage spikes. So far I agree with the debunkers. The issue is the alternator trying to supply 200 amps to the starter which, of course, it can't do. This, as I've been led to understand, is not a good thing for the alternator because it creates an overload or something? I don't totally understand the dynamics inside the alternator, but it supposedly stress something in there out and causes premature failures. As far as the "automobiles don't do it" argument goes... I'm not so sure they don't actually do it. They just do it automatically for you. When you turn the key to energize the starter power is shut off to all the accessories... and the alternator?? A little empirical data... I went through 2 alternators in about a 1000 hrs before I put in a split switch. Since I put in the switch I've had no failures... knock on wood. Whatever is going on in our airplanes sure causes the alternator to fail a lot more often than in our cars, and it's not just vibration. Mickey Coggins wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch> > > >>Oh, what hogwash. When you turn on a big load the voltage goes down, >>not up. I think we have already learned that there aren't 'spikes >>ripping through the electrical system.' Bob has the 'scope traces to >>show that. Do people ever bother to do any research? >> >> > >I love it when Old Wife's Tales get blown out of the water. > > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 06:20:51 PM PST US
    From: Richard Riley <richard@RILEY.NET>
    Subject: Re: Alternator Off During Start Up?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net> At 02:46 PM 12/3/04, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Grosse <grosseair@ameritech.net> > >Okay, I don't want to start another war here, and please don't shoot me >if I turn out to be wrong, but... The issue with taking the alternator >off line with a separate switch during startup as I understand it is not >voltage spikes. So far I agree with the debunkers. The issue is the >alternator trying to supply 200 amps to the starter which, of course, it >can't do. This, as I've been led to understand, is not a good thing for >the alternator because it creates an overload or something? I don't >totally understand the dynamics inside the alternator, but it supposedly >stress something in there out and causes premature failures. One more point of anecdotal information. I have a high compression 540 and long starter leads. Several times I've had difficulty starting the engine with the alt. field on. When I turn the field off it seems to crank faster and starts easily. Is the alt putting a lot of drag on the engine when the voltage drops on cranking?




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