Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:36 AM - 2004 List of Contributors - A Special Thank You... (Matt Dralle)
2. 05:46 AM - Re: Small Wire, Big Ring Terminal (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
3. 06:14 AM - Re: Master Ground (John Schroeder)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: Master Ground (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
5. 07:53 AM - Re: fuse block location (Bryan Hooks)
6. 07:57 AM - EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start Up? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
7. 08:43 AM - Re: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start Up? (Matt Prather)
8. 09:21 AM - Re: fuse block location (Mickey Coggins)
9. 09:30 AM - Re: Master Ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 09:52 AM - Re: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start Up? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
11. 09:52 AM - O2 sensor for Rotax 914? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
12. 10:05 AM - Re: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start Up? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
13. 10:51 AM - Bob Nockolls question (Bobby Hester)
14. 11:30 AM - Re:Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (buck)
15. 12:04 PM - Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? (Rob Housman)
16. 12:31 PM - temperature sensitive stick-on tabs (N27160@aol.com)
17. 01:04 PM - Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? (923te)
18. 04:16 PM - Re: Bob Nockolls question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 05:09 PM - Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? (Richard Tasker)
20. 05:40 PM - Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
21. 05:55 PM - Dual alt single battery setup (Steve & Denise)
22. 06:40 PM - fuse block location (Mark Taylor)
23. 06:52 PM - Re: E bus switching. (David Carter)
24. 07:03 PM - Re: E bus switching. (David Carter)
25. 07:13 PM - Re: E bus switching. (Dan Checkoway)
26. 07:25 PM - Re: (thomas a. sargent)
27. 08:16 PM - Re: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start Up? (Brian Kraut)
28. 08:36 PM - Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? (Brian Kraut)
29. 08:45 PM - Re: E bus switching. (David Carter)
30. 08:50 PM - Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? (923te)
31. 09:21 PM - Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? (Brian Kraut)
32. 11:37 PM - ELT Antenna Length (Charlie Brame)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 2004 List of Contributors - A Special Thank You... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
First let me say Thank You to everyone that made a Contribution in support
of the Lists this year! I was particularly touched by all of the wonderful
comments people made regarding the Lists and how much they mean to
them. As I have said many times before, running these Lists and creating
the many new features is truly a labor of love. This is why your comments
of support and appreciation have particular meaning for me. Your
generosity during this time of List support only underscores the delightful
sentiments people have made regarding the Lists.
I would also once again like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore
( http://www.buildersbooks.com ) who so generously supported this year's
Fund Raiser with both free and substantially discounted merchandise!! Andy
is truly one of a kind, and a superb businessman, and I cannot thank him
enough for all that he's done! If you have any aircraft media needs in the
near future, I would ask that you please give his great web site a
look. Thanks again Andy, for all your support!
And I would also like to thank Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises
(www.kitlog.com) who has generously contributed free registered copies of
his great Windows Kit Logging software called Kitlog Pro in support of this
year's List Fund Raiser! Thank you, Paul! For those of you that selected
this sweet gift, you should be receiving your Registration Key directly
from Paul in the next week or so.
And finally, below you will find the 2004 List of Contributors current as
of 12/5/04! Have a look at the list of names there as these are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank you all
enough for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund
Raiser! THANK YOU!
There are still a few of the various Free Gifts left, so please feel free
to yet make your Contribution and get a great Free Gift to-boot! Once
again, the URL for the Contributions web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks. I hope to
have everything shipping out by the end of the month. Generally everything
will go out via USPS, so be nice to your postman this month, he might be
bringing you something fun!
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------ 2004 List of Contributors ---------------------
Aldrich, Scott
Alexander, George
Aller, Daniel
Alley, Brian
Amos, Paul
Amundsen, Blair
Anderson, Edward
Anthony, Bruce
Applefeld, Gerald
Applegate, William
Arbeitman, Gordon
Archer, Matt
Ashcraft, Keith
Ashford, James
Austin, Peter
Ayers, Jim
Babb, Tony
Bahrns, Stan
Bailey, Rick
Baker, Jim
Baker, Mike
Baker, Owen
Baker, Roger
Baker, Victor
Bakke, Bj%f8rn
Baldwin, James
Ballard, Jerry
Ballenger, James
Banes, John
Banyai, Michael
Barnes, Tom
Barnett, W.Mark
Barrie, Darwin
Barter, Tom
Basiliere, Rick
Bates, Jr, Marcus
BauerJr, Fred
Bean, James
Bean, Robert
Beauchamp, Norm
Beene, Kenneth
Bell, Bruce
Benjamin, Hal
Benson, Lonn
Benson, Lonnie
Bergh, Dave
Bernard, William
Berner, Walter
Bernier, Jim
Bertelli, John
Berthet, Andre
Bertz, Gary
Bettmeng, Rick
Bezzard, Richard
Bidle, Jerry
Bieberdorf, Roger
Bikle, Alan
Bish, Dan
Blackwell, Charles
Blackwell, Jimmie
Blake, James
Boardman, Don
Bockelman, David
Boetto, Steve
Bonds, Kevin
Boothe, Gary
Booze, George
Borger, Robert
Borne, Chuck
Bothe, Andreas
Boucher, Michel
Boulet, Paul
Bourne, Larry
Bowden, Terry
Bowen, Larry
Bowhay, Eustance
Bowman, John
Boyd, Don
Boyer, James
Brame, Charles
Brandt, Leroy
Branscomb, Warren
Brasch, Glenn
Breckenridge, Bruce
Brick, John
Briggs, Tracy
Brooks, John
Brooks, Sterling
Broom, Richard
Brown, David
Brown, Ken
Brown, Kent
Brown, Robert
Brunke, John
Bryan, Mark
Bryan, Tim
Bryant, Geoff
Buchanan, Guy
Buchanan, Sam
Buchmann, Kenneth
Buehlmann, Peter
Buess, Alfred
Bullock, Jack
Burden, Ronald
Burke, James
Burnett, Ron
Burns, Mark
Burrill, Phil
Burton, Charlie
Burton, James
Butcher, Jim
Butcher, Ron
Butler, Francis
Butler, Sherman
Butler, Thomas
Butterfield, John
Buyse, Lieven
Caldwell, Lapsley
Calloway, Terry
Cann, Robert
Cannon, Paul
Cantrell, Jimmy
Cantrell, Kenneth
Capen, Ralph
Capra, Salvatore
Carlton, Raymond
Carpenter, Kenneth
Carroll, Randy
Carter, David
Carter, Howard
Cary, William
Celestre, Rich
Challgren, Stanley
Chambers, Leslie
Chandler, Rick
Chatham, Bob
Chenoweth, William
Chevaillier, Mason
Ciolino, John
Clark, James
Clark, John
Clay, Dennis
Clayton, James
Clement, Jim
Clyma, Frank
Coalwell, Timothy
Cochran, Stewart
Cockrell, Alan
Coggins, Mickey
Cole, Gary
Cole, Gerry
Collins, Bob
Colucci, Tony
Combs, Doyle
Compton, Scott
Condrey, Bob
Conkling, J.Michael
Connell, Joseph
Conrad, Gerald
Constant, Jeremy
Cook, Craig
Cook, Doug
Cooley, John
Cooper, James
Copeland, Garrett
Corbalis, .Leo
Corbett, Claude
Corder, Michael
Corner, Jim
Corriveau, Grant
Cottingham, Richard
Cottrell, Larry
Coursey, William
Courtney, James
Cox, JimL.
Crane, James
Cravener, Don
Craze, Gary
Cribb, William
Crimm, Steve
Crockett, James
Crosby, Harry
Crosley, Rich
Crowe, Michael
Cruikshank, Bruce
Cummings, Tom
Dalstrom, Douglas
Dalton, Bob
Danclovic, Paul
Danielsen, HansJ%f8rgen
Danner, Robert
Daudt, Larry
Daughenbaugh, Rj
Daves, Russell
Davidson, Janet
Davidson, Jeff
Davies, Brian
Davis, Charles
Davis, Peter
Davis, Robert
Dawson, Clif
Dawson, Garth
De Jong, Jan
Decuir, John
Deford, David
Deits, DPaul
Dennis, Chris
Dettmer, Randy
Dewees, Ron
Dial, Larry
Diehl, Donald
Disher, John
Dixon, Thomas
Dominey, Clifford
Dominy, Kenneth
Donaghue, James
Donaldson, Norman
Donato, John
Dornseif, Keith
Dowling, Jeff
Dresden, Robert
Dubroc, Tommy
Dudley, Richard
Duffy, Russell
Dukerich, Tom
Duncan, Rod
Durakovich, David
Durbrow, John
Eckel, John
Edwards, Joseph
Ehlers, ClydeD.
Elder,jr, William
Eli, Robert
Ellenberger, Mike
Elliott, Andrew
Ellis, Dale
Ellsworth, Jim
Elrod, Michael
Emberson, Cory
Engh, Duncan
Enns, Dennis
Ensing, Dale
Erb, Robert
Erickson, Alan
Ervin, Thomas
Erwin, Chip
Esterhuizen, Deon
Evans, Kathleen
Evans, Marion
Fackler, Ken
Fair, WilliamD
Falik, Donald
Farrell, Patrick
Farris, Greg
Fasching, John
Faulkner, Thomas
Featherston, Les
Feldman, Herb
Ferguson, Darren
Ferguson, Jay
Ferguson, John
Fifield, Scott
Figgins, David
Filucci, Michael
Firm, Howard
Fischer, Douglas
Fischer, John
Fishe, JF
Fisher, Michael
Fitt, Lowell
Fitzpatrick, Robert
Fix, Douglas
Flavin, John
Fluent, Grant
Foerster, James
Fogerson, Richard
Ford, John
Ford, Larry
Fordham, Chris
Forsberg, Erik
Fox, Byron
Frantz, Terry
Frederickson, John
French, James
Friel, Christopher
Frye, Dwight
Fulgham, Bill
Fullilove, Ken
Fulmer, JosephA
Fulp, John
Fussell, Larry
Futrell, Billie
Fux, Franz
Gagnon, Laurent
Gagnon, Tim
Gardner, Albert
Garforth, Richard
Gates, Leo
Gauthier, Alain
Geese, Ronald
Geldermann, Daniel
Genzlinger, Reade
George, Joseph
George, Neal
George, William
German, Mark
Gernetzke, Jill
Gherardini, Don
Giacona, William
Gibbons, Robert
Gibbs, Al
Giddens, Gerald
Giles, Tom
Gillespie, Rl
Gilliatt, Jim
Gingell, Rob
Gitt, Larry
Glaeser, Dennis
Glass, Roy
Glauser, David
Gleason, Mike
Goguen, Nelson
Golden, Shane
Goode, Richard
Goodings, John
Goodridge, Stuart
Goolsby, Jim
Gordon, Keith
Gott, Shelby
Gottelt, Herbert
Goudinoff, Peter
Gowing, John
Grabb, Gary
Graber, Joel
GrahamJr, WDoyce
Graichen, Peter
Grant, Jordan
Grantz, Alan
Green, Luther
Greenough, James
Gregory, Steve
Griese, Wayne
Griffin, Bill
Griffin, Robert
Grosse, John
Gummo, Thomas
Gunn, Jim
Gunn, John
Gustafson, Aaron
Haecker, H.Ivan
Haertlein, Frank
Hagar, Steve
Hale, Adrian
Hale, Michael
Haley, Gary
Hall, Charles
Hall, Joel
Hallsten, Keith
Hamer, Steve
Hamilton, Red
Hamilton, William J
Hankins, Roger
Hansen, Graham
Hansen, Ronald
Harding, Christopher
Haring, Robert
Harmon, John
Harmon, Loren
Harrison, Nigel
Harrod, Peter
Hart, Jack
Hartley, Keith
Harvey, Dale
Hasler, James
Hasper, Jim
Hatch, Pat
Hatfield, Cicil
Hauck, John
Haverlah, Dennis
Heath, Donald
Heaton, Herb
Hedrick, Keith
Hefner, Jim
Hegler, Freddie
Heindl, Karl
Helming, Larry
Henson, Eric
Henwick, Mark
Heritch, Ian
Herminghaus, John
Herrick, DavidC
Herron, Al
Hershberger, Edward
Hetrick, Dale
Heykoop, John
Hibbing, William
Higgins, Floran
Higgins, Graham
Hilker, David
Hill, Buryl
Hill, Jeff
Hill, StanleyA.
Hinrichsen, James
Hodge, Jack
Hodgson, Bob
Hodgson, Mark
Hoffman, Allan
Hoffman, Carl
Hoffmann, Thomas
Holifield, Steve
Holland, Rick
Holmes, Paul
Hood, Bill
Hooper, Randy
Hoover, Ralph
Hopper, Daniel
Horne, Gilbert
Horton, Kevin
Hoyle, Clifford
Hubbard, Eugene
Hueltz, Wolfgang
Hughes, Robert
Humes, Hubert
Humphrey, Steve
Hurd, James
HurnsAircraft, JohnA.Hurn
Hurst, Kingsley
Hutcheson, Galen
Hutcheson, Joe
Hutcheson, Joseph
Hutchison, Tom
Hyde, Ken
Hyndman, Ross
Imken, Chuck
Inman, George
Isler, Jerry
Jacko, Victor
Jackson, Kevin
James, Ken
Jarvis, Andrew
Jaussi, Curtis
Jenkins, John
Jensen, Charles
Jensen, Jim
Jensen, Marinus
Johannsson, Johann
Johansson, Max
Johnsen, Svein
Johnson, Anthony
Johnson, Dale
Johnson, Darrell
Johnson, Dennis
Johnson, Edwin
Johnson, Les
Johnson, Lytle
Johnson, Thomas
Johnston, Bruce
Johnston, Leroy
Johnston, Stephen
JonCroke, Homebuilthelp.Com
Jones, Alvin
Jones, Eric
Joosten, Craig
Jordan, JR
Joyce, David
Joyce, John
Jula, TheodoreF
Jung, John
Jurotich, Matthew
Kaluza, Charles
Kane, Lawrence
Kaser, Jim
Katra, James
Kearney, John
Keener, Forest
Kellum, Mark
Kempthorne, Hal
Kennedy, Robert
Kent, John
Kesterton, Donald
Kilburg, Larry
Killion, Clay
Kimsey, Thomas
King, Jack
King, John
Kirby, David
Kirby, Dennis
Klein, Fred
Klingmuller, Lothar
Kohles, Jerry
Koonce, R.L.
Kosta, Michael
Koyich, Ron
Kramer, Ed
Krasinski, Jerzy
Krok, Peter
Krueger, Grant
Kruleski, Chet
Kruleski, ChetM.
Krysztopik, Gary
Kuehn, George
Kunkel, Fred
Kuntz, Paul
Kyle, Fergus
Laird, Dave
Lake, Bob
Lalonde, Bart
Landucci, Larry
Lannon, Walter
Lansden, John
Larzilliere, Alain
Lathrop, Jim
Laughlin, Ron
Laurence, Peter
Laurie, Kip
Lawson, John
Lawton, John
Lax, Chuck
Lechkun, Dave
Ledbetter, Gene
Ledoux, Paul
Lee, BoonLeong
Lefler, Fabian
Leggette, Edward
Lehmann, August
Leinberger, Construction
Lekven, Carl
Lemen, Ted Lemen
Lenton, Dennis
Lerohl, Gaylen
Lewis, Terry
Licking, Lawrence
Liebmann, Ron
Lind, David
Lineberry, Gary
Linse, Michael
Lively, Chad
Long, Charles
Long, Eugene
Long, PatrickG
Longwell, Anna
Loring, Arthur
Loubert, Gary
Lovchik, Alan
Lovley, Forrest
Luther, Mike
Lyden, Jim
Macdonald, Larry
Macinnes, Bruce
Mackay, Alex
Madden, Peter
Mader, David
Madigan, Bob
Mains, Ralph
Malczynski, Fran
Mansfield, Ray
Markey, John
Markle, Jim
Markwwell, Cleone
Marr, Giffen
Marshall, Tony
Marshall, William
Martin, Brad
Martin, Bryan
Martin, Mickey
Martinez, Ernest
Martinez, Ernest
Marzluf, John P.
Mason, John
Mason, Marty
Massey, Allen
Mather, Peter
Matlack, Dean
Matteson, Lynn
Maxson, Phillip
Mayer, Neil
Maynard, Brad
Mcanally, Robert
Mccallister, Donald
Mccallum, Robert
Mccarty, Mike
Mcconnell, Roger
Mcculley, Jim
Mcdonald, Frank
Mcfarland, Larry
Mcfarland, Randy
Mcfarlane, Lloyd
Mcgregor, Bruce
Mcintyre, Jay
Mcintyre, Patrick
Mcleod, Neil
Mcnutt, George
Mcpherson, Miller
McShane, Eugene
Mears, Mike
Medeiros, Joel
Mei, Don
Mekeel, DonaldE
Melenyzer Iv, Cl
Merchant, Dean
Messinger, Paul
Metzger, Jim
Meyer, Steve
Meyers, Jess
Michaud, David
Miles, Simon
Milgrom, Mark
Miller, David
Miller, Mark
Miller, William
Mills, Moe
Mills, Rodney
Mills, William
Mitchell, Dale
Mitchell, Duane
Moak, Ken
Montagne, Ray
Moore, David
Moore, Goff
Moore, Warren
Moran, Felix
Morisse, Darrel
Morrison, Douglas
Morrow, Dan
Mortimore, Terry
Mrotzek, Dan
Mueller, Michael
Munn, Mike
Munz, Devin
Murphy, Thomas
Murphy, Walt
Murray, Ronald
Myers, George
Myers, John
Nadeau, Michael
Nation, Arthur
Navratil, Richard
Naylor, Bruce
Neilsen, Richard
Nelson, Jim
Nelson, Larry
Nelson, William
Newkirk, Bill
Nicely, Vincent
Nichols, CE
Nickson, Dennis
Niedermeyer, Carl
Niles, Bruce
Noon, Bruce
North, Wheeler
Nowakowski, Don
Noyer, Robert
Nuckolls, Robert
O Reilly, Colm
O'Brien, Dan
Ockuly, Bernie
Oconnor, Edward
Ohara, T.
Ohlinger, Mark&Judy
Okeefe, Lawrence
Oldford, David
Olds, Robert R.
Olofsson, Brian
Olsen, Paul
Olson, Bob
Olson, Tim
Olson, Tom
Omelchuck, Jason
Orear, Jeff
Osborne, Roger
Owens, Duane
Palamarek, Ted
Park, David
Parker, Dennis
Partyka, LeeM
Patellos, Sam
Patsey, Kevin
Paule, David
Paulich, John
Paulsen, David
Payne, Craig
Pearsall, Don
Peck, Brian
Pedersen, Wayne
Pelletier, Dave
Perez, M.Domenic
Perry, Gregg
Persels, Lyle
Petersen, Dave
Petersen, Paul
Peterson, Alex
Peterson, DavidA
Petri, David
Pettey, Don
Petty, Paul
Peyton, Douglas
Pfeifer, Michael
Pflimlin, Paul
Pfundt, Jan
Phillips, Mark
Phipps, Mark
Pierce, Tony
Pike, Richard
Pilling, Kevin
Pocock, Graham
Point, Jeff
Pollard, Jim
Porter, Denis
Porter, John
Porter, Richard
Portouw, Lawrence
Powell, Ken
Power, Stephen
Preston, Doug
Przestrzelski, John
Puckett, Greg
Puglise, James
Puls, Jeffrey
Quinn, Rollie
Rabaut, Chuck
Radford, Joe
Rampil, Ira
Randolph, George
Rasmussen, Chris
RayJr., RobertG.
Redmon, James
Reel, David
Reid, Greg
Reith, Bruno
Render, James
Reyes, Randy
Reyna, Jake
Reynolds, Richard
Rhea, Larry
Rice, Mike
Richards, Stephen
Richardson, Colin
Rickard, Ian
Rickman, Loy
Rigby, David
Ritter, Mark
Roberts, Gary
Roberts, Rick
Robertson, Bob
Rodenbush, James
Rodriguez, Paul
Rodriguez-flores, Pedro
Romine, Chris
Ronnau, James
Ross, Christopher
Rowe, Jay
Rozendaal, Douglas
Rudnick, Ron
Ruksnaitis, William
Russell, Frank
Russell, Jack
Russell, Larry
Russell, Randy
Sa, Carlos
Sager, Truman
Sagerser, JamesA.
Saligman, Ira
Salter, Phil
Sapp, Doug
Sargent, Thomas
Savarese, AnthonyDennis
Sax, Sam
Scaggs, Billy
Scarlett, Donald
Schieber, Cedric
Schieffer, Charles
Schlafly, Fred
Schlanser, Eric
Schlosser, Kevin
Schmidt, Patty And John
Schneider, Keith
Schneider, Werner
Schoenberger, H.Robert
Schoonover, Donovan
Schrader, Kurt
Schrimmer, Mark
Schroeder, Earl
Schroeder, John
Scott, Mark
Scott, Richard
Scott, Troy
Scroggs, Ross
Seal, John
Seaton, Gary
Selby, Jim
Selix, Richard
Servaty, Paul
Sessford, Kenneth
Shablow, John
Shafer, Jim
Shank, William
Shanks, Jim
Shaw, Cliff
Shaw, Rex
Sheen, JamesD.
Shepherd, Dallas
Shepherd, Stanislaus
Shiple, Fred
Shipley, Rob
Shipley, Walt
Shumaker, James
Shumaker, Robert
Siegfried, OldBob
Silvester, Andy
Simenauer, David
Simmons, Kendall
Simpson, Larry
Sinke, Jim
Sipp, Richard
Skelly, Brian
Slater, Martin
Sletten, Mark
Sloan, Alex
Slutz, Gary
Smith, David
Smith, Ed
Smith, Gene
Smith, Joe
Smith, Tracy
Smythe, Donald
Snedaker, Bob
Sorensen, Lance
Spainhower, Craig
Sparks, Tim
Specht, Stan
Spencer, Scott
Sport Plane LLLC, John & Debra McBean
Springer, Jerry
Staal, Stephen
Stafford, Patrick
Staley, Dick
Staples, Brian
Starke, Jonathan
Starn, John
Stauffer, Mark
Steele, Jack
Steffler, Terry
Steuber, Edward
Stewart, Michael
Stewart, Shannon
Stinemetze, Thomas
St-laurent, Ray
Stone, Christopher
Stone, James
Stone, Rob
Strange, Ted
Strong, Gary
Stroud, David
Stuart, Bill
Stuart, T.Clay
Suffoletto, Richard
Sulloway, Alvah
Sutterfield, Stan
Swaney, Mark
Swanson, Ronald
Sweidan, Gerald
Swinford, George
Szantho, JohnB
Talley, Quinn
Tasker, Richard
Tatham, Will
Tatham`, Will
Tellet, David
Textor, Jack
Tezyk, Robert
Therrien, Michel
Thomas, Lee
Thomas, Ned
Thomason, Mannan
Thomason, Michael
Thomson, Malcolm
Thwing, RandyL.
Timm, Peter
Tode, Michael
Toivio, Raimo
Tomlin, Thomas
Tompkins, Jeff
Tonkin, Randy
Toro, Jose
Tower, John
Tower, Nelson
Tuck, John
Tuckwell, Richard
Tupper, Kirby
Tuton, Beauford
Tvedte, John
Tyler, George
Unruh, Brian
Unternaehrer, Rolf
Uribe, Guillermo
Utter, Robert
Valovich, Paul
Vanartsdalen, Scott
Vance, Donn
Vandenbroek, Martin
Vandervort, Ronald
Vangrunsven, Stan
VanHeeswijk, Jack
VanSanten, Don
Vanwinkle, Alden
Varnes, William
Venohr, Robert
Verdev, Victor
Vermeulen, Bob
Vervoort, Jef
Vetterli, Richard
Von Bevern, Brian
Von Doymi, Carl
Vormbaum, John
Voss, Richard
Vranken, Karel
Wagner Jr., James E.
Wagoner, Richard
Walker, Thomas
Walker, Weston
Walmsley, Brett
Walrath, Howard
Walsh, Denis
Walter, Daniel
Wanamaker, John
Washburn, Ollie
Waters, Pete
Watson, Richard
Watson, Terrence
Weaver, Fred
Webb, Randol
Wehner, Clement
Weiler, Douglas
Wells, George
Welsh, Don
Wetzel, Bob
Whelan, Thomas
White, Charles
White, Phil
Whiteley, Kenneth
Whitman, Timothy
Whittington, Dewitt
Wigney, John
Wikstrom, Michael
Wiley, Robert
Williams, Terry
Williamson, Danny
Willig, Louis
Wimmer, Thomas
Winfree, Anthony
Woboril, David
Wolf, James
Wolfe, Brooks
Wood, Callbie
Wood, Frank
Wood, Larry
Wright, David
Wright, Jim
Wsiaki, Michael
Wymer, Gerald
Yager, Jack
Yeamans, David
Young, Dee
Young, Greg
Young, John
Zinkham, Ralph
Zollinger, Duane
Zuniga, Oscar
Zweifel, Ron
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
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| Subject: | Re: Small Wire, Big Ring Terminal |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 12/5/2004 9:58:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
tinnemaha@hotmail.com writes:
Hello Again List,
The awg 16 wire from the battery contactor to the main battery bus requires
a 5/16" ring terminal on one end (at least that's what size my contactor
has), but I can't find a terminal that large for a wire that small. What is
the best solution?
My current best guess would be to just strip off extra wire & double it back
to fill the next size larger terminal like Bob's shop notes say to do for an
awg 24 fuselink. Any comments?
Thanks again,
Grant
That's exactly what I do in a pinch for the right terminal and then I use a
short piece of heat shrink on it for additional support. The important thing
to remember is to completely fill the crimp with wire BEFORE it is crimped.
Many people in the electrical/electronic trades incorrectly try to crimp a
large terminal on a small wire with all kinds of space around the wire and it
is BAD! You are trying to obtain a near gas tight seal of terminal material
and wire here.
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Master Ground |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Grant -
Our batteries are in the tail - 15 ft away from the switches on the panel.
We are using Z-14. We used 20 AWG for these runs.
John
> Figure Z-11 shows an awg 22 wire running from the battery contactor to
> the
> master switch. As my battery is in the tail, this wire will be about 14
> ft
> long. Generally one would want to increase wire size for a longer run
> due to voltage drop, but I can't see that being an issue here.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Master Ground |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
Hello Grant,
Regardless of wire size needed to properly carry the current that distance
without voltage drop, I can't bring myself to run a wire that distance with a
22 Ga. wire. I would like to keep the physical size to an 18 or a 20 just
for mechanical/physical survivability.
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
Message 5
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| Subject: | fuse block location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
I recently had one blow in my wifes' SUV. Not quite sure why though.
All she did was plug an inverter into the cig lighter, plug a hair dryer
into that and turned it on. :)
On an unfortunate note, she didn't quite have enough time to get her
hair dry before the fuse had blown.
I now have the inverter put up out of her reach, so to speak since it
apparently is my fault for not telling her not to plug her hair dryer
into it.
-bryan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fuse block location
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:50 PM 12/5/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Good question. I have not yet decided exactly where I will put
>mine, but one question I have is do fuses blow very often? I
>have not had one blow in one of my cars or motorcycles for at
>least 25 years. Of course, the spam cans I fly have circuit
>breakers, and I have never experienced a tripped breaker, either.
Good anecdotal data. I'll suggest that 99.99+ percent of all
breakers
and fuses installed in any vehicle will never be called upon to
protect
the system over the lifetime of the vehicle . . . when they ARE
needed, the most likely cause is some condition that cannot be
mitigated by replacing the fuse or resetting the breaker. So if any
particular system is desirable for comfortable completion of flight,
you'd do well to have a backup for it.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start Up? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 12/5/2004 8:33:38 P.M. Central Standard Time,
brian.kraut@engalt.com writes:
They do exist and I have seen them although I am not sure where to get them,
but thank you for solving my problem of making sure the EGT gauge is on the
hottest cylinder without having to keep moving it around.
Good Morning Brian,
Why do you want your EGT gauge to be on the "hottest" cylinder?
For the purposes we aviators use the EGT information, any EGT indication is
only a relative measurement. The exact temperature developed is totally
irrelevant to the operation of the engine. If you really want to see how your
engine is responding, you need to have an EGT probe on every cylinder.
However, if you have confidence that the fuel distribution to all cylinders is
well
balanced, you can control the mixture to all by reference to only one
cylinder.
The important thing to realize is that the temperature you are seeing is not
at all pertinent to how the engine is running or whether or not any damage
is being done to the engine.
All it provides is a means of economically telling you what the cylinder is
doing in relation to data that has been previously developed in an engine test
cell.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start |
Up?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
I basically agree with Mr Siegfried's comments, with only a couple
of additional comments. On turbocharged engines, the actual EGT
value becomes critical - the same as TIT or ITT. For NA 4 cycle
engines, only the relative temps are useful.
The fuel distribution for most common engine airframe combinations
should be known. If you get in touch with someone else who has the
same setup as you and also has all of the instrumentation, you can
probably copy their data, and get the EGT probe on the right cylinder.
When leaning with the intent of running the engine rich of peak (ROP)
EGT - as recommended for best power, if you have only one probe, it
needs to be located on the cylinder which reachs peak first (at the richest
setting - the leanest cylinder). Then all other cylinders will be operating
richer and cooler than the cylinder you have instrumented. Safe.
If the fuel distribution is good enough to allow lean of peak operation
(LOP), and you wish to run there in cruise, the probe needs to be on
the cylinder that peaks last (the richest cylinder). Then when you lean
for cruise based on that cylinder, you can be confident that all other
cylinders will be cooler than the one you have instrumented.
Finally, in the scheme of things, EGT probes are relatively inexpensive.
So too is setting up a rotary switch to be able to monitor each probe on
a single display. The weight of the wire is negligible, so why not go
ahead a wire it all up?
Regards,
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 12/5/2004 8:33:38 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> brian.kraut@engalt.com writes:
>
> They do exist and I have seen them although I am not sure where to get
> them, but thank you for solving my problem of making sure the EGT gauge
> is on the hottest cylinder without having to keep moving it around.
>
>
> Good Morning Brian,
>
> Why do you want your EGT gauge to be on the "hottest" cylinder?
>
> For the purposes we aviators use the EGT information, any EGT indication
> is only a relative measurement. The exact temperature developed is
> totally irrelevant to the operation of the engine. If you really want
> to see how your engine is responding, you need to have an EGT probe on
> every cylinder. However, if you have confidence that the fuel
> distribution to all cylinders is well balanced, you can control the
> mixture to all by reference to only one cylinder.
>
> The important thing to realize is that the temperature you are seeing is
> not at all pertinent to how the engine is running or whether or not
> any damage is being done to the engine.
>
> All it provides is a means of economically telling you what the cylinder
> is doing in relation to data that has been previously developed in an
> engine test
> cell.
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
> AKA
> Bob Siegfried
> Ancient Aviator
> Stearman N3977A
> Brookeridge Airpark LL22
> Downers Grove, IL 60516
> 630 985-8502
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | fuse block location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>I recently had one blow in my wifes' SUV. Not quite sure why though.
>All she did was plug an inverter into the cig lighter, plug a hair dryer
>into that and turned it on. :)
Wow, I guess you have a crappy car if it can't handle a little
ol' 2000 watt blow dryer. :-) Please tell me she wasn't drying
her hair while driving down the road!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Master Ground |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:42 PM 12/5/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>
>List,
>
>Figure Z-11 shows an awg 22 wire running from the battery contactor to the
>master switch. As my battery is in the tail, this wire will be about 14 ft
>long. Generally one would want to increase wire size for a longer run due
>to voltage drop, but I can't see that being an issue here.
>
>Any recommendations or opinions to the contrary?
>
> Thanks,
> Grant
Voltage drop is predicated on resistance of the wire multiplied by
the current flowing in the wire. The battery contactor draws about .8
amps. 22AWG wire is 22 milliohms per foot so drop on a 14 foot run
will be 22 x 14 x 0.8 or 245 millivolts . . . a quite acceptable
value.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start |
Up?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 12/6/2004 10:44:33 A.M. Central Standard Time,
mprather@spro.net writes:
Finally, in the scheme of things, EGT probes are relatively inexpensive.
So too is setting up a rotary switch to be able to monitor each probe on
a single display. The weight of the wire is negligible, so why not go
ahead a wire it all up?
Regards,
Matt-
Totally agree Matt,
I might even add a pitch for getting an instrument that will not require a
switch. There are several manufacturers of good monitoring equipment available.
All of them are good.
JPI is the eight hundred pound gorilla on this playing field, but
Electronics International and Insight Avionics, along with others, have good equipment
as well.
For anyone who has more interest engine operations, may I recommend reading
the articles written by John Deakin.
Try: _http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182544-1.html_
(http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182544-1.html)
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 11
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| Subject: | O2 sensor for Rotax 914? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Putting together a panel for our europa and got to the decision about an EGT.
Since the Mixture in flight is not adjustable, the EGT information would not be
tremendous useful. If you were monitoring all 4 cylinders, it could show difference,
but
most I don't think install 4 probes. As far as an absolute temperature, I doubt
you
could look in Rotax manual and get a specific temp that it should be and actual
read
that on gauge because of exact position of probe and calibration of gauge.
I got to thinking perhaps an O2 sensor with a readout would be more useful. I see
Spruce
sells one with a simple circuit that lets you lean till a light goes on, then go
slight
richer.
Hmmm.
What if you had a circuit that drove a bar graph LED where the center was ideal
mixture. Granted it would be for all cylinders, and 1 side could be lean and the
other
rich, but once you knew your motor you could see a change.
Could be used for diagnosing problems, a specific setting and roughness, is it
too rich
or too lean?
Anyway is such a thing sold? Anybody have an idea how to build one? I plan on mostly
using MoGas but on trips 100LL, so need a sensor that could tolerate it for a while.
Spruce says theirs is good for ~200 hours. On cars some use 2 wire and some 3 wire.
I had a 1983 Volvo Wagon with 2 wire O2 sensor that needed replacement every 30K.
It was
located before the Turbo. I let it go to 45K near car life and it broke a tab off,
went
through turbo and it busted a tip of as blade. I just broke off the opposite side
and it
worked till I got rid of car without whistle.
My 92 Turbo wagon has a 3 wire that is after the turbo, i change it ~ 100K but
seemed OK
when I do.
I would prefer to have one after the turbo on 914.
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start |
Up?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 12/6/2004 10:44:33 A.M. Central Standard Time,
mprather@spro.net writes:
When leaning with the intent of running the engine rich of peak (ROP)
EGT - as recommended for best power, if you have only one probe, it
needs to be located on the cylinder which reaches peak first (at the richest
setting - the leanest cylinder). Then all other cylinders will be operating
richer and cooler than the cylinder you have instrumented. Safe.
Oh! One more thing.
Note that Matt said the leanest cylinder, not the hottest cylinder. The
purpose of the EGT is to locate that point where the EGT shows the mixture of
that individual cylinder is going from rich to lean. You don't have any need
at all for knowing what the temperature actually is unless, as Matt stated,
you are running that exhaust into a turbo charger which IS sensitive to high
temperatures
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Bob Nockolls question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Bob, I got your response last week but you missed a question I had and I was hoping
to hear your response.
I have a friend that knows more than I do about wiring. He has questioned me about
the 4 AWG wire going from the Battery side of the 80 AMP fuse to the main
fuse buss. He said that wire is not protected (by a fuse) from the battery current
to the fuse box and should be.
I plan on using 8 AWG there insted of 4 AWG now, because the load will only req.
8 AWG, but I still want to be able to explain to my friend that nothing else
is needed on the wire run, if that is true.
Here was the link that I had posted:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/WiringPlan.html
Thanks!
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Off During Start Up? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "buck" <buckaroo_banzai@the-pentagon.com>
http://www.omega.com will sell you various kinds of temperature tabs. I
used some right on my cylinder heads when I was checking the CHT readings.
Greg
----------------------------------------------
Original Message
From: "Jim Jewell"<jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Alternator Off During Start Up?
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Does anyone know of a source for temperature sensitive stick-on tabs that
>might be useful for determining physical item and area temperatures? I
think
>such a things exist. I wonder if it could be of use in the cowling
>environment?
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Alternator Off During Start Up?
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>
>>> ... If you want to
>>> discover for yourself how well your alternator is cooled,
>>> you can easily thermocouple the critter and find out during
>>> your fly-off interval.
>>
>> That sounds like a good idea. Adding a scat tube later would
>> not be a big deal if it is necessary.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Mickey
>>
>>
>> --
>> Mickey Coggins
>> http://www.rv8.ch/
>> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>
>
http://www.MyOwnEmail.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Alternator Off During Start Up? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Crayon-like Tempilstistiks can be used to measure surface temperatures.
See: http://www.tempil.com/
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Alternator Off During Start Up?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Does anyone know of a source for temperature sensitive stick-on tabs that
might be useful for determining physical item and area temperatures? I think
such a things exist. I wonder if it could be of use in the cowling
environment?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Alternator Off During Start Up?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>
>> ... If you want to
>> discover for yourself how well your alternator is cooled,
>> you can easily thermocouple the critter and find out during
>> your fly-off interval.
>
> That sounds like a good idea. Adding a scat tube later would
> not be a big deal if it is necessary.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | temperature sensitive stick-on tabs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N27160@aol.com
Do a google search on "Tempilstick" They are used by auto racing folks and
are used in the welding industry.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
There are severl O2 sensors or Air Fuel Ratio Monitors available. Even kits
to build them. I listed some links below but just do a google on it and
you'll find lots. The lead in 100LL eventually slows the response time of
the O2 sensor but since we do not need fast response times (with out using a
fuel controller computer) it will work for a long time
There used to be a fellow that sold a conversion kit to make the Bing carb
mixture manually controllable. I understand that these carbs are pressure
compensated to only 10,000ft after that you are burning too rich.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
ARM1 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/afratio.htm
http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt07.asp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Putting together a panel for our europa and got to the decision about an
EGT.
>
> Since the Mixture in flight is not adjustable, the EGT information would
not be
> tremendous useful. If you were monitoring all 4 cylinders, it could show
difference, but
> most I don't think install 4 probes. As far as an absolute temperature, I
doubt you
> could look in Rotax manual and get a specific temp that it should be and
actual read
> that on gauge because of exact position of probe and calibration of gauge.
>
> I got to thinking perhaps an O2 sensor with a readout would be more
useful. I see Spruce
> sells one with a simple circuit that lets you lean till a light goes on,
then go slight
> richer.
>
> Hmmm.
>
> What if you had a circuit that drove a bar graph LED where the center was
ideal
> mixture. Granted it would be for all cylinders, and 1 side could be lean
and the other
> rich, but once you knew your motor you could see a change.
>
> Could be used for diagnosing problems, a specific setting and roughness,
is it too rich
> or too lean?
>
> Anyway is such a thing sold? Anybody have an idea how to build one? I plan
on mostly
> using MoGas but on trips 100LL, so need a sensor that could tolerate it
for a while.
> Spruce says theirs is good for ~200 hours. On cars some use 2 wire and
some 3 wire.
>
> I had a 1983 Volvo Wagon with 2 wire O2 sensor that needed replacement
every 30K. It was
> located before the Turbo. I let it go to 45K near car life and it broke a
tab off, went
> through turbo and it busted a tip of as blade. I just broke off the
opposite side and it
> worked till I got rid of car without whistle.
>
> My 92 Turbo wagon has a 3 wire that is after the turbo, i change it ~ 100K
but seemed OK
> when I do.
>
> I would prefer to have one after the turbo on 914.
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Bob Nockolls question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:51 PM 12/6/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester"
><bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
>Bob, I got your response last week but you missed a question I had and I
>was hoping to hear your response.
>
>I have a friend that knows more than I do about wiring. He has questioned
>me about the 4 AWG wire going from the Battery side of the 80 AMP fuse to
>the main fuse buss. He said that wire is not protected (by a fuse) from
>the battery current to the fuse box and should be.
>I plan on using 8 AWG there insted of 4 AWG now, because the load will
>only req. 8 AWG, but I still want to be able to explain to my friend that
>nothing else is needed on the wire run, if that is true.
These wires are classically not protected assuming the wires are
large enough that any fault currents they carry are likely to "burn clear"
as opposed to setting a wire on fire. Check out the wiring diagrams for
any single engine certified airplane and you'll find the main bus
feeder is not fused or protected in any way other than to make sure
it's well supported and isolated from potential rub-through situations.
So for that reason, I'd recommend leaving the wire large (4AWG) and
un-protected. I'm assuming your airplane includes an e-bus . . .
so if you wanted to drop to 8 AWG and put a 40A fuse in line with it,
that would be fine too although about a quarter-million airplanes have
flown for decades without experiencing any problems due to this design
feature.
Quoting FAR23:
Sec. 23.1357 Circuit protective devices.
(a) Protective devices, such as fuses or circuit breakers, must be
installed in all electrical circuits other than--
(1) Main circuits of starter motors used during starting only; and
(2) Circuits in which no hazard is presented by their omission.
In the case we're discussing, circuit protection has been left
out because it's easy to install these wires so that they're
well shielded from abrasion. There may be a certified S.E. aircraft
that fuses the main bus feeder but I'm only aware of the huge
quantities that are not so protected . . .
Bob . . .
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
These are good suggestions. However, be aware that there two types of
oxygen sensors - and therefore two types of ratio meters.
The first are the so-called narrow band sensors that have their entire
0-1V nominal (typically 0.3 to 0.7V) change in output over a very narrow
range around the ideal 14.7:1 ratio. These are what are normally used
with most automobile engines where they are just trying to optimize the
mixture for minimum emissions. Devices using these sensors are
relatively cheap (US$100-200) but only show a relative rich to lean
readout typically using a set of LEDS or a bar graph - no numbers.
The second type are the so-called wide band sensors which typically have
a wider output voltage change and will sense a wide range of mixtures -
from way too lean to way too rich. These are typically not used in
automobile engines, but are used in purpose built air-fuel ratio
meters. They will read out the ratio in numbers (e.g. 14.7) and can be
used to set accurate air fuel ratios. They are much more expensive
(US$450 and up) and typically come with the appropriate wide band sensor.
Depending on what you want to do, either could be acceptable.
Dick Tasker
923te wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
>
>There are severl O2 sensors or Air Fuel Ratio Monitors available. Even kits
>to build them. I listed some links below but just do a google on it and
>you'll find lots. The lead in 100LL eventually slows the response time of
>the O2 sensor but since we do not need fast response times (with out using a
>fuel controller computer) it will work for a long time
>
>There used to be a fellow that sold a conversion kit to make the Bing carb
>mixture manually controllable. I understand that these carbs are pressure
>compensated to only 10,000ft after that you are burning too rich.
>
>http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
>
>ARM1 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor
>http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/afratio.htm
>
>http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt07.asp
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
>
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
>>
>>
><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>
>>Putting together a panel for our europa and got to the decision about an
>>
>>
>EGT.
>
>
>>Since the Mixture in flight is not adjustable, the EGT information would
>>
>>
>not be
>
>
>>tremendous useful. If you were monitoring all 4 cylinders, it could show
>>
>>
>difference, but
>
>
>>most I don't think install 4 probes. As far as an absolute temperature, I
>>
>>
>doubt you
>
>
>>could look in Rotax manual and get a specific temp that it should be and
>>
>>
>actual read
>
>
>>that on gauge because of exact position of probe and calibration of gauge.
>>
>>I got to thinking perhaps an O2 sensor with a readout would be more
>>
>>
>useful. I see Spruce
>
>
>>sells one with a simple circuit that lets you lean till a light goes on,
>>
>>
>then go slight
>
>
>>richer.
>>
>>Hmmm.
>>
>>What if you had a circuit that drove a bar graph LED where the center was
>>
>>
>ideal
>
>
>>mixture. Granted it would be for all cylinders, and 1 side could be lean
>>
>>
>and the other
>
>
>>rich, but once you knew your motor you could see a change.
>>
>>Could be used for diagnosing problems, a specific setting and roughness,
>>
>>
>is it too rich
>
>
>>or too lean?
>>
>>Anyway is such a thing sold? Anybody have an idea how to build one? I plan
>>
>>
>on mostly
>
>
>>using MoGas but on trips 100LL, so need a sensor that could tolerate it
>>
>>
>for a while.
>
>
>>Spruce says theirs is good for ~200 hours. On cars some use 2 wire and
>>
>>
>some 3 wire.
>
>
>>I had a 1983 Volvo Wagon with 2 wire O2 sensor that needed replacement
>>
>>
>every 30K. It was
>
>
>>located before the Turbo. I let it go to 45K near car life and it broke a
>>
>>
>tab off, went
>
>
>>through turbo and it busted a tip of as blade. I just broke off the
>>
>>
>opposite side and it
>
>
>>worked till I got rid of car without whistle.
>>
>>My 92 Turbo wagon has a 3 wire that is after the turbo, i change it ~ 100K
>>
>>
>but seemed OK
>
>
>>when I do.
>>
>>I would prefer to have one after the turbo on 914.
>>
>>Thx.
>>Ron Parigoris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello Richard
Thanks for your help.
Once flying will post how useful the ARM1 will be.
Ron Parigoris
Richard Tasker wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
>
> These are good suggestions. However, be aware that there two types of
> oxygen sensors - and therefore two types of ratio meters.
>
> The first are the so-called narrow band sensors that have their entire
> 0-1V nominal (typically 0.3 to 0.7V) change in output over a very narrow
> range around the ideal 14.7:1 ratio. These are what are normally used
> with most automobile engines where they are just trying to optimize the
> mixture for minimum emissions. Devices using these sensors are
> relatively cheap (US$100-200) but only show a relative rich to lean
> readout typically using a set of LEDS or a bar graph - no numbers.
>
> The second type are the so-called wide band sensors which typically have
> a wider output voltage change and will sense a wide range of mixtures -
> from way too lean to way too rich. These are typically not used in
> automobile engines, but are used in purpose built air-fuel ratio
> meters. They will read out the ratio in numbers (e.g. 14.7) and can be
> used to set accurate air fuel ratios. They are much more expensive
> (US$450 and up) and typically come with the appropriate wide band sensor.
>
> Depending on what you want to do, either could be acceptable.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> 923te wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
> >
> >There are severl O2 sensors or Air Fuel Ratio Monitors available. Even kits
> >to build them. I listed some links below but just do a google on it and
> >you'll find lots. The lead in 100LL eventually slows the response time of
> >the O2 sensor but since we do not need fast response times (with out using a
> >fuel controller computer) it will work for a long time
> >
> >There used to be a fellow that sold a conversion kit to make the Bing carb
> >mixture manually controllable. I understand that these carbs are pressure
> >compensated to only 10,000ft after that you are burning too rich.
> >
> >http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
> >
> >ARM1 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor
> >http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/afratio.htm
> >
> >http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt07.asp
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
> >>
> >>
> ><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> >
> >
> >>Putting together a panel for our europa and got to the decision about an
> >>
> >>
> >EGT.
> >
> >
> >>Since the Mixture in flight is not adjustable, the EGT information would
> >>
> >>
> >not be
> >
> >
> >>tremendous useful. If you were monitoring all 4 cylinders, it could show
> >>
> >>
> >difference, but
> >
> >
> >>most I don't think install 4 probes. As far as an absolute temperature, I
> >>
> >>
> >doubt you
> >
> >
> >>could look in Rotax manual and get a specific temp that it should be and
> >>
> >>
> >actual read
> >
> >
> >>that on gauge because of exact position of probe and calibration of gauge.
> >>
> >>I got to thinking perhaps an O2 sensor with a readout would be more
> >>
> >>
> >useful. I see Spruce
> >
> >
> >>sells one with a simple circuit that lets you lean till a light goes on,
> >>
> >>
> >then go slight
> >
> >
> >>richer.
> >>
> >>Hmmm.
> >>
> >>What if you had a circuit that drove a bar graph LED where the center was
> >>
> >>
> >ideal
> >
> >
> >>mixture. Granted it would be for all cylinders, and 1 side could be lean
> >>
> >>
> >and the other
> >
> >
> >>rich, but once you knew your motor you could see a change.
> >>
> >>Could be used for diagnosing problems, a specific setting and roughness,
> >>
> >>
> >is it too rich
> >
> >
> >>or too lean?
> >>
> >>Anyway is such a thing sold? Anybody have an idea how to build one? I plan
> >>
> >>
> >on mostly
> >
> >
> >>using MoGas but on trips 100LL, so need a sensor that could tolerate it
> >>
> >>
> >for a while.
> >
> >
> >>Spruce says theirs is good for ~200 hours. On cars some use 2 wire and
> >>
> >>
> >some 3 wire.
> >
> >
> >>I had a 1983 Volvo Wagon with 2 wire O2 sensor that needed replacement
> >>
> >>
> >every 30K. It was
> >
> >
> >>located before the Turbo. I let it go to 45K near car life and it broke a
> >>
> >>
> >tab off, went
> >
> >
> >>through turbo and it busted a tip of as blade. I just broke off the
> >>
> >>
> >opposite side and it
> >
> >
> >>worked till I got rid of car without whistle.
> >>
> >>My 92 Turbo wagon has a 3 wire that is after the turbo, i change it ~ 100K
> >>
> >>
> >but seemed OK
> >
> >
> >>when I do.
> >>
> >>I would prefer to have one after the turbo on 914.
> >>
> >>Thx.
> >>Ron Parigoris
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Dual alt single battery setup |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
I have another question for the group.
I'm planning a single battery dual alternator setup. I'm planning to fly to
some very
remote airports in northern Canada and an alternator failure is a bad day.
With reference to the Z diagram for dual alternator system I have a few
questions.
In normal flight the aux alternator is off. If the field switch is off does
the voltage lamp
still work. In other words if the backup alt fails for some reason and the
main alt fails,
would the aux alt voltage lamp come on still?
Is there any reasons the have the backup alt on even though the main alt is
functioning
properly?
With respect to how this system works. Suppose the main alternator fails,
the backup alt is
turned on, main alt turned off, and continue on flying. The backup alt is
powering the main
power bus. However I have now gone from 60A capability to 20A capability. I
start conserving
power by turning off the none essentials. My question is this:
There are several items on the main power bus such as fuel senders, trim
indicators, etc that
can not be switched off. Should item like this have a small switch somewhere
so they can
be turned off to conserve power?
If the backup alt fails as well then the same process as mentioned a few
days ago. Alt off,
battery master off and now running on battery power alone to the essential
bus.
Why does the backup alt power the main battery bus and not the essential bus
exclusively?
Thanks list.
Steve
RV7A #2
Message 22
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1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Tom, check out my site, I have a hinged fuse panel, an idea I borrowed from
somebody else.
www.4sierratango.com and go to the electrical page. There are a few
different images here.
Mark
RV7 Slow QB
Finish Kit
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: fuse block location
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
<sarg314@comcast.net>
You want your fuse blocks mounted in a place that is easy to get at.
Airplanes have darn few places that are easy to get at. I keep thinking
in terms of mounting them on something that is movable over a limited
range, such as a panel that hinges open or a small "drawer" that slides
out. You'd have to be careful to leave enough of a service loop on the
wiring to permit the motion, of course and cable dress would be
imprtant. It would probably only be 5 or 6 inches of extra wire. I
think it could be done safely. I recall seeing something like this on
one builder's web page a long time ago.
So, where/how are people mounting their fuse blocks?
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A, firewall.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: E bus switching. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Without the switch, the E-bus becomes a larger branch of a/the "battery
bus". The switch would provide an easy way to save the battery by turning
off all the stuff (radios) on the e-bus for 15' at a time. Of couse, could
just turn off individual e-bus items instead of having an e-bus sw (to shut
off the entire bus).
With switch left on all the time, or with no switch at all, the diode would
stop flow to "main bus" when master switch ("main bus" switch?) was turned
off following alternator failure. Or, diode - and wire between main bus &
e-bus - could be eliminated for reduced parts count.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: E bus switching.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Dan I'm probably asking a dumb question here but since this seems
> > O.K to me why do we bother with a switch for the e-bus. Why not
> > hard wire this circuit to be on continuously.
> > If it is deemed necessary an lED could be used as an annunciator to
> > monitor that the circuit is active.
>
> Study the "Z" diagrams...the e-bus switch feeds from the "always hot" bus.
> If there were no switch, what would ever turn the e-bus power off? ;-)
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: E bus switching. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Without the switch, the E-bus becomes a larger branch of a (or the)
"battery
bus". The switch would provide an easy way to save the battery by turning
off all the stuff (radios) on the e-bus for 15' at a time. Of couse, could
just turn off individual e-bus items instead of having an e-bus sw (to shut
off the entire bus).
With switch left on all the time, or with no switch at all, the diode would
stop flow to "main bus" when master switch ("main bus" switch?) was turned
off following alternator failure. Or, diode - and its wire between main bus
&
e-bus - could be eliminated for reduced parts count.
David (this didn't come thru first time I sent it so doing it again)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: E bus switching.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Dan I'm probably asking a dumb question here but since this seems
> > O.K to me why do we bother with a switch for the e-bus. Why not
> > hard wire this circuit to be on continuously.
> > If it is deemed necessary an lED could be used as an annunciator to
> > monitor that the circuit is active.
>
> Study the "Z" diagrams...the e-bus switch feeds from the "always hot" bus.
> If there were no switch, what would ever turn the e-bus power off? ;-)
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: E bus switching. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Without the switch, the E-bus becomes a larger branch of a/the "battery
> bus". The switch would provide an easy way to save the battery by turning
> off all the stuff (radios) on the e-bus for 15' at a time. Of couse,
could
> just turn off individual e-bus items instead of having an e-bus sw (to
shut
> off the entire bus).
Don't forget that most people put stuff like electric gyros and/or turn
coordinators and stuff on their e-bus. Most of these items don't have
integral power switches like avionics do.
Which would you rather have, one convenient e-bus alternate feed switch, or
a separate switch for every gadget that doesn't already have a switch of its
own?
I'm not saying Bob's architecture can't be improved upon, I'm just saying
I'm not gonna be the one to do it. ;-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 26
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Mark:
Lots of great pictures. Thanks very much
--
Tom Sargent
Mark Taylor wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
>
>Tom, check out my site, I have a hinged fuse panel, an idea I borrowed from
>somebody else.
>
>www.4sierratango.com and go to the electrical page. There are a few
>different images here.
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During Start |
Up?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I actually meant to say CHT, not EGT.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
BobsV35B@aol.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EGT indications, was:Alternator Off During
Start Up?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 12/5/2004 8:33:38 P.M. Central Standard Time,
brian.kraut@engalt.com writes:
They do exist and I have seen them although I am not sure where to get
them,
but thank you for solving my problem of making sure the EGT gauge is on
the
hottest cylinder without having to keep moving it around.
Good Morning Brian,
Why do you want your EGT gauge to be on the "hottest" cylinder?
For the purposes we aviators use the EGT information, any EGT indication is
only a relative measurement. The exact temperature developed is totally
irrelevant to the operation of the engine. If you really want to see how
your
engine is responding, you need to have an EGT probe on every cylinder.
However, if you have confidence that the fuel distribution to all cylinders
is well
balanced, you can control the mixture to all by reference to only one
cylinder.
The important thing to realize is that the temperature you are seeing is
not
at all pertinent to how the engine is running or whether or not any damage
is being done to the engine.
All it provides is a means of economically telling you what the cylinder is
doing in relation to data that has been previously developed in an engine
test
cell.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | O2 sensor for Rotax 914? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I had an O2 sensor in my KR-2 and really loved it. It worked a whole lot
better and faster than the EGT. Westach does not advertize it, but they can
put an air/fuel display in a custom made dual or quad instrument. I had one
made with air/fuel, manifold pressure, OAT, and EGT.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 923te
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
There are severl O2 sensors or Air Fuel Ratio Monitors available. Even kits
to build them. I listed some links below but just do a google on it and
you'll find lots. The lead in 100LL eventually slows the response time of
the O2 sensor but since we do not need fast response times (with out using a
fuel controller computer) it will work for a long time
There used to be a fellow that sold a conversion kit to make the Bing carb
mixture manually controllable. I understand that these carbs are pressure
compensated to only 10,000ft after that you are burning too rich.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
ARM1 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/afratio.htm
http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt07.asp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Putting together a panel for our europa and got to the decision about an
EGT.
>
> Since the Mixture in flight is not adjustable, the EGT information would
not be
> tremendous useful. If you were monitoring all 4 cylinders, it could show
difference, but
> most I don't think install 4 probes. As far as an absolute temperature, I
doubt you
> could look in Rotax manual and get a specific temp that it should be and
actual read
> that on gauge because of exact position of probe and calibration of gauge.
>
> I got to thinking perhaps an O2 sensor with a readout would be more
useful. I see Spruce
> sells one with a simple circuit that lets you lean till a light goes on,
then go slight
> richer.
>
> Hmmm.
>
> What if you had a circuit that drove a bar graph LED where the center was
ideal
> mixture. Granted it would be for all cylinders, and 1 side could be lean
and the other
> rich, but once you knew your motor you could see a change.
>
> Could be used for diagnosing problems, a specific setting and roughness,
is it too rich
> or too lean?
>
> Anyway is such a thing sold? Anybody have an idea how to build one? I plan
on mostly
> using MoGas but on trips 100LL, so need a sensor that could tolerate it
for a while.
> Spruce says theirs is good for ~200 hours. On cars some use 2 wire and
some 3 wire.
>
> I had a 1983 Volvo Wagon with 2 wire O2 sensor that needed replacement
every 30K. It was
> located before the Turbo. I let it go to 45K near car life and it broke a
tab off, went
> through turbo and it busted a tip of as blade. I just broke off the
opposite side and it
> worked till I got rid of car without whistle.
>
> My 92 Turbo wagon has a 3 wire that is after the turbo, i change it ~ 100K
but seemed OK
> when I do.
>
> I would prefer to have one after the turbo on 914.
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: E bus switching. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: E bus switching.
> Don't forget that most people put stuff like electric gyros and/or turn
> coordinators and stuff on their e-bus. Most of these items don't have
> integral power switches like avionics do.
> Which would you rather have, one convenient e-bus alternate feed switch,
or
> a separate switch for every gadget that doesn't already have a switch of
its
> own?
. . . . So, if turn needle and attitude indicator, don't have a switch
normally, I'd not add one - just let 'em run. That's why they are on the
"endureance bus" (used to be "essential bus") So, they are a non-issue for
whether or not to have an "e-bus on-off switch".
- Maybe the only legit, but small, reason for a "full e-bus kill switch"
would be if something on that bus started smoking or burning and you wanted
to, and were in flight conditions to, kill everything.
- Otherwise, let it all run - or turn off what you have normal switches
for, if you really need to stretch battery life that badly - which raises
another whole issue of flight discipline and judgement about whether to land
"as soon as practical" or "as soon as possible". Our OBAM concept is to be
comfortable going on to destination with more than enough electrons from the
battery and enough gas after the alternator fails. David
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: O2 sensor for Rotax 914? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
Hi Brian,
Thanks for reminding me of the Westach. here is a link to their instrument.
Is this similar to what you had?
Ned
http://www.westach.com/images/showcase/2C5-56-Air_Fuel_Ratio.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut"
<brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> I had an O2 sensor in my KR-2 and really loved it. It worked a whole lot
> better and faster than the EGT. Westach does not advertize it, but they
can
> put an air/fuel display in a custom made dual or quad instrument. I had
one
> made with air/fuel, manifold pressure, OAT, and EGT.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 923te
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
>
> There are severl O2 sensors or Air Fuel Ratio Monitors available. Even
kits
> to build them. I listed some links below but just do a google on it and
> you'll find lots. The lead in 100LL eventually slows the response time of
> the O2 sensor but since we do not need fast response times (with out using
a
> fuel controller computer) it will work for a long time
>
> There used to be a fellow that sold a conversion kit to make the Bing carb
> mixture manually controllable. I understand that these carbs are pressure
> compensated to only 10,000ft after that you are burning too rich.
>
> http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
>
> ARM1 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor
> http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/afratio.htm
>
> http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt07.asp
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> >
> > Putting together a panel for our europa and got to the decision about an
> EGT.
> >
> > Since the Mixture in flight is not adjustable, the EGT information
would
> not be
> > tremendous useful. If you were monitoring all 4 cylinders, it could show
> difference, but
> > most I don't think install 4 probes. As far as an absolute temperature,
I
> doubt you
> > could look in Rotax manual and get a specific temp that it should be and
> actual read
> > that on gauge because of exact position of probe and calibration of
gauge.
> >
> > I got to thinking perhaps an O2 sensor with a readout would be more
> useful. I see Spruce
> > sells one with a simple circuit that lets you lean till a light goes on,
> then go slight
> > richer.
> >
> > Hmmm.
> >
> > What if you had a circuit that drove a bar graph LED where the center
was
> ideal
> > mixture. Granted it would be for all cylinders, and 1 side could be
lean
> and the other
> > rich, but once you knew your motor you could see a change.
> >
> > Could be used for diagnosing problems, a specific setting and roughness,
> is it too rich
> > or too lean?
> >
> > Anyway is such a thing sold? Anybody have an idea how to build one? I
plan
> on mostly
> > using MoGas but on trips 100LL, so need a sensor that could tolerate it
> for a while.
> > Spruce says theirs is good for ~200 hours. On cars some use 2 wire and
> some 3 wire.
> >
> > I had a 1983 Volvo Wagon with 2 wire O2 sensor that needed replacement
> every 30K. It was
> > located before the Turbo. I let it go to 45K near car life and it broke
a
> tab off, went
> > through turbo and it busted a tip of as blade. I just broke off the
> opposite side and it
> > worked till I got rid of car without whistle.
> >
> > My 92 Turbo wagon has a 3 wire that is after the turbo, i change it ~
100K
> but seemed OK
> > when I do.
> >
> > I would prefer to have one after the turbo on 914.
> >
> > Thx.
> > Ron Parigoris
> >
> >
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | O2 sensor for Rotax 914? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
That is their automotive instrument. I was using that one while I was
waiting for them to make me the custom quad gauge. It was cheap, something
like $35 or so, and worked great. I would highly recommend it over the ones
with LED bar graphs. The only thing I don't like about it is that it
doesn't fit in a standard 2 1/4" hole and look like a standard aircraft
instrument. I needed the other instruments also so the quad was the best
way for me to go.
I don't think I have mentioned it lately, but the customer service and tech
support at Westach are top notch. And if you ever need something that is
not standard they will even do custom instrument faces. On my quad they did
the air/fuel, manifold pressure with an internal pressure to voltage
converter so I could just plug the hose into the back of the instrument, and
temp sensors with ranges that I picked. The price was only about $30 more
than buying a standard quad from the catalogs and it took two weeks to get.
I bet they would do an air fuel in a standard 2 1/4" aircraft instrument
case with your choice of high and low readings if you asked.
If I remeber correctly, the thread for the O2 sensor was 18mm diameter and
1.5mm pitch. You can buy welding bosses for them, but they are expensive.
I got a stainless nut from McMaster Carr and welded it to my exhaust. I
couldn't find that big fine thread nut anywhere locally.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 923te
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
Hi Brian,
Thanks for reminding me of the Westach. here is a link to their instrument.
Is this similar to what you had?
Ned
http://www.westach.com/images/showcase/2C5-56-Air_Fuel_Ratio.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut"
<brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> I had an O2 sensor in my KR-2 and really loved it. It worked a whole lot
> better and faster than the EGT. Westach does not advertize it, but they
can
> put an air/fuel display in a custom made dual or quad instrument. I had
one
> made with air/fuel, manifold pressure, OAT, and EGT.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 923te
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
>
> There are severl O2 sensors or Air Fuel Ratio Monitors available. Even
kits
> to build them. I listed some links below but just do a google on it and
> you'll find lots. The lead in 100LL eventually slows the response time of
> the O2 sensor but since we do not need fast response times (with out using
a
> fuel controller computer) it will work for a long time
>
> There used to be a fellow that sold a conversion kit to make the Bing carb
> mixture manually controllable. I understand that these carbs are pressure
> compensated to only 10,000ft after that you are burning too rich.
>
> http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
>
> ARM1 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor
> http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/afratio.htm
>
> http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt07.asp
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: O2 sensor for Rotax 914?
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> >
> > Putting together a panel for our europa and got to the decision about an
> EGT.
> >
> > Since the Mixture in flight is not adjustable, the EGT information
would
> not be
> > tremendous useful. If you were monitoring all 4 cylinders, it could show
> difference, but
> > most I don't think install 4 probes. As far as an absolute temperature,
I
> doubt you
> > could look in Rotax manual and get a specific temp that it should be and
> actual read
> > that on gauge because of exact position of probe and calibration of
gauge.
> >
> > I got to thinking perhaps an O2 sensor with a readout would be more
> useful. I see Spruce
> > sells one with a simple circuit that lets you lean till a light goes on,
> then go slight
> > richer.
> >
> > Hmmm.
> >
> > What if you had a circuit that drove a bar graph LED where the center
was
> ideal
> > mixture. Granted it would be for all cylinders, and 1 side could be
lean
> and the other
> > rich, but once you knew your motor you could see a change.
> >
> > Could be used for diagnosing problems, a specific setting and roughness,
> is it too rich
> > or too lean?
> >
> > Anyway is such a thing sold? Anybody have an idea how to build one? I
plan
> on mostly
> > using MoGas but on trips 100LL, so need a sensor that could tolerate it
> for a while.
> > Spruce says theirs is good for ~200 hours. On cars some use 2 wire and
> some 3 wire.
> >
> > I had a 1983 Volvo Wagon with 2 wire O2 sensor that needed replacement
> every 30K. It was
> > located before the Turbo. I let it go to 45K near car life and it broke
a
> tab off, went
> > through turbo and it busted a tip of as blade. I just broke off the
> opposite side and it
> > worked till I got rid of car without whistle.
> >
> > My 92 Turbo wagon has a 3 wire that is after the turbo, i change it ~
100K
> but seemed OK
> > when I do.
> >
> > I would prefer to have one after the turbo on 914.
> >
> > Thx.
> > Ron Parigoris
> >
> >
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | ELT Antenna Length |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
Rubber Ducky antennas are available from Aircraft Spruce. Look under the
ICOM Handheld Radio Accessories. Mine was $36. They attach with a
standard female B&C connector. The Vertec rubber ducky is cheaper, but
screws on.
Can't speak to the power requirements, but I know of several RVs that
are flying with rubber ducky ELT antennas, some in the baggage
compartment and some under the empennage fairing. Mine is going under
the empennage fairing.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-----------------------------------------
> Time: 07:18:33 AM PST US
> From: Mickey Coggins
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: ELT Antenna length
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm having trouble finding a good place to put my ELT
> antenna, and I'd like to know if I can shorten the
> antenna that came with my ELT. I've read through
> the archives, which seem to have conflicting information.
> I've read that a rubber duckie antenna will work, but
> it will take more power than the antenna that came with
> the Ameriking ELT. Is this correct? Anyone have a good
> source for these rubber duckie antennas?
>
> I calculated the recommended length of the ELT 121.5 MHz
> quarter-wave antenna to be about 24.3 inches
> (299,792,458 meters/second / 121.5MHz / 4 = .6168569 meters).
> Does this sound right? I guess this assumes a good
> ground plane, which I won't have if I mount this thing under the VS.
>
> I need to shorten the antenna to fit under
> my VS, since that seems to be where Van's installs
> them on the RV8. I can't find a better place for this
> thing. Some people have installed them under the right
> elbow of the passenger, but that does not seem much
> better than the tail.
>
> Any and all suggestions welcome!
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
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