Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:49 AM - Re: BandC current sensor installation? (Brett Ferrell)
2. 09:18 AM - Re: BandC current sensor installation? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 10:53 AM - Re: Diagram of Duel Battery, Single Alternator with Steering Diodes (Mark Banus)
4. 10:53 AM - Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to picture) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:06 AM - Re: BandC current sensor installation? (Brett Ferrell)
6. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to picture) (Brett Ferrell)
7. 11:33 AM - Re: Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to picture) (Brett Ferrell)
8. 12:45 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 12/29/04 (rduplooy)
9. 12:56 PM - light IFR ()
10. 01:41 PM - Re: light IFR (Wayne Sweet)
11. 04:53 PM - Re: light IFR (Walter Tondu)
12. 07:02 PM - Re: Re: Diagram of Duel Battery, Single (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 07:09 PM - Calibration of Amploc Current Sensors (Mike Holland)
14. 07:59 PM - AMP 59500 Crimper (Mark Banus)
15. 08:41 PM - Re: AMP 59500 Crimper (Robert McCallum)
16. 10:16 PM - E bus list opinions (Richard Riley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: BandC current sensor installation? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brett Ferrell <bferrell@123mail.net>
Quoting "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 08:09 PM 12/29/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brett Ferrell"
> ><bferrell@123mail.net>
> >
> >Can someone tell me how to hook up the B&C current sensor? I called them
> >today, and they said they'd get back to me but they didn't. I'm hooking
> >it up to my SB1B, and I'm confused by the schematic. I can see clearly
> >how the the small white/orange/blue wires are connected to the regulator,
> >but the larger (10Ga I think) wire has one ring terminal and one
> >unterminated end. The schematic shows a dashed line (not a wire) to a
> >annular ring/hall effet sensor that surrounds the SB20's B-lead.
> >1) Should this B-lead pass through the sensors ring-terminal?
>
> The wiring diagram at:
>
> http://bandc.biz/14-SB1B.pdf
>
> shows three wires in a cable that attach to three terminals
> of the regulator. The dotted line leading to the toroidal
> shape below says that the sensor is used to detect current in
> the alternator b-lead.
Had that, and this is exactly what the diagram depicts, 3 colored leads to the
regulator and that the sensor somehow detects current in the B lead.
The sensor is an AMPLOC device
> like those described in:
>
> http://amploc.com/PRO%20Series.pdf
Didn't have that.
> >2) If so, where does the unterminated end go?
> >3) If not, do the two ends come together somehow around the B-Lead, and if
> >so how?
>
> The diagram is quite explicit
I disagree, it may be intuitively obvious to you, but it is not in my opinion
explicit. It shows only the annular ring, not the other free end of wire.
Since I've seen current sensors before, and none of them looked like a common
ring terminal, I was a little sceptical that this (ring terminal on the sensor)
was in fact the sensor lead. However, the diagram does not address the free end
in any way, even if you do understand that the ring terminal is the sensor.
The #10 wire passes one time through the
> opening in the sensor. Further, the sensor should be marked as
> to which opening faces the alternator.
It is so marked
This will be described in
> the installation instructions
They do not, at least not any instructions that recieved, the sensor itself had
no instructions packed with it. Since the diagram (14-SB1B.pdf) did not show
this (explicitly), I was at a loss. Granted, my alternators and regulators
were shipped to my engine shop, and they cold have misplaced the sensor
instructions, so I don't assume that they were omitted by B&C.
The #10 wire is left un-terminated
> on one end so that it can be passed through the sensor. Most terminals
> that are used with #10 wire are too large. The end that has a terminal
> on it is probably sized to fit the alternator. The free end needs
> a terminal that matches the connection you choose to install at the
> bus end . . . probably the wiring screw on the 40A breaker.
Since I'm using current limiters on the aft firewall of my canard (Velocity),
and not a breaker, I will use the always-hot lug of the ANL. If the diagram
showed this lead coming of the sensor to the alternator breaker with a notation
of "bus sense", I would consider it to be explicit. The sensor and the breaker
are depicted, why is this connection not? Thanks very much for you help, Bob,
even if I'm overlooking the blindingly obvious. ;-)
Brett
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: BandC current sensor installation? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:50 AM 12/30/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brett Ferrell <bferrell@123mail.net>
>
>Quoting "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 08:09 PM 12/29/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brett Ferrell"
> > ><bferrell@123mail.net>
> > >
> > >Can someone tell me how to hook up the B&C current sensor? I called them
> > >today, and they said they'd get back to me but they didn't. I'm hooking
> > >it up to my SB1B, and I'm confused by the schematic. I can see clearly
> > >how the the small white/orange/blue wires are connected to the regulator,
> > >but the larger (10Ga I think) wire has one ring terminal and one
> > >unterminated end. The schematic shows a dashed line (not a wire) to a
> > >annular ring/hall effet sensor that surrounds the SB20's B-lead.
> > >1) Should this B-lead pass through the sensors ring-terminal?
> >
> > The wiring diagram at:
> >
> > http://bandc.biz/14-SB1B.pdf
> >
> > shows three wires in a cable that attach to three terminals
> > of the regulator. The dotted line leading to the toroidal
> > shape below says that the sensor is used to detect current in
> > the alternator b-lead.
>
>Had that, and this is exactly what the diagram depicts, 3 colored leads to the
>regulator and that the sensor somehow detects current in the B lead.
>
>The sensor is an AMPLOC device
> > like those described in:
> >
> > http://amploc.com/PRO%20Series.pdf
>
>Didn't have that.
>
> > >2) If so, where does the unterminated end go?
> > >3) If not, do the two ends come together somehow around the B-Lead, and if
> > >so how?
> >
> > The diagram is quite explicit
>
>I disagree, it may be intuitively obvious to you, but it is not in my opinion
>explicit. It shows only the annular ring, not the other free end of wire.
>Since I've seen current sensors before, and none of them looked like a common
>ring terminal, I was a little sceptical that this (ring terminal on the
>sensor)
>was in fact the sensor lead. However, the diagram does not address the
>free end
>in any way, even if you do understand that the ring terminal is the sensor.
If you have a "sensor" that looks like a "common ring terminal" then
it sounds like your talking about the temperature probe where temp sensing
device is potted into a heavy copper ring terminal and the wire to the
regulator is a single strand of shielded wire. How many wires are in
the cable that runs to the regulator? Does the "sensor" look like
one of the AMPLOC devices or does it look more like a solid copper
ring terminal that might go on a 4AWG wire?
>The #10 wire passes one time through the
> > opening in the sensor. Further, the sensor should be marked as
> > to which opening faces the alternator.
>
>It is so marked
>
> This will be described in
> > the installation instructions
>
>They do not, at least not any instructions that recieved, the sensor
>itself had
>no instructions packed with it. Since the diagram (14-SB1B.pdf) did not show
>this (explicitly), I was at a loss. Granted, my alternators and regulators
>were shipped to my engine shop, and they cold have misplaced the sensor
>instructions, so I don't assume that they were omitted by B&C.
Have to talked to B&C about this? I think they're open this week.
>The #10 wire is left un-terminated
> > on one end so that it can be passed through the sensor. Most terminals
> > that are used with #10 wire are too large. The end that has a terminal
> > on it is probably sized to fit the alternator. The free end needs
> > a terminal that matches the connection you choose to install at the
> > bus end . . . probably the wiring screw on the 40A breaker.
>
>Since I'm using current limiters on the aft firewall of my canard (Velocity),
>and not a breaker, I will use the always-hot lug of the ANL. If the diagram
>showed this lead coming of the sensor to the alternator breaker with a
>notation
>of "bus sense", I would consider it to be explicit. The sensor and the
>breaker
>are depicted, why is this connection not? Thanks very much for you help, Bob,
>even if I'm overlooking the blindingly obvious. ;-)
Okay . . . that's not a problem. We need to deduce whether or
not you have the right parts. It sounds like you MIGHT have a
temp sensor as opposed to a current sensor. They may have
packed the wrong sensor. I use the AMPLOC sensors in my instrumentation
tasks. Here's a photo of an AMPLOC sensor on a 3-wire lead. Does this
look something like the sensor we're talking about?
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Diagram of Duel Battery, Single Alternator with |
Steering Diodes
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Banus" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
>Is there a Diagram of Duel Battery, Single Alternator system with Steering
>Diodes in Bob's plethora of drawings? I intend to have both batteries
>being changed any time the master is on with the endurance bus separated
>from the battery buss with a switch. I've looked but I must have missed
>it. Thanks.
No, that architecture is not recommended. That's not to say
that you can't do it any way you wish but the functionality
you're looking for is offered. What is the driver for adding
a second battery? What problems do you see, for example,
with Figure Z-11 with a second battery added per Z-30?
Bob . . .
Bob, They will work just fine. Thanks. Let me refine my question. If I use Z-11/30
with 2 batteries do I need to isolate the charging circuits from each other?
Mark Banus
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to picture) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Okay . . . that's not a problem. We need to deduce whether or
> not you have the right parts. It sounds like you MIGHT have a
> temp sensor as opposed to a current sensor. They may have
> packed the wrong sensor. I use the AMPLOC sensors in my instrumentation
> tasks. Here's a photo of an AMPLOC sensor on a 3-wire lead.
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/AmpLOC_Sensor.jpg
>
> Does this look something like the sensor we're talking about?
>
> Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: BandC current sensor installation? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brett Ferrell" <bferrell@123mail.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: BandC current sensor installation?
>> > >Can someone tell me how to hook up the B&C current sensor? I called
>> > >them
>> > >today, and they said they'd get back to me but they didn't. I'm
>> > >hooking
>> > >it up to my SB1B, and I'm confused by the schematic. I can see
>> > >clearly
>> > >how the the small white/orange/blue wires are connected to the
>> > >regulator,
>> > >but the larger (10Ga I think) wire has one ring terminal and one
>> > >unterminated end. The schematic shows a dashed line (not a wire) to a
>> > >annular ring/hall effet sensor that surrounds the SB20's B-lead.
>> > >1) Should this B-lead pass through the sensors ring-terminal?
>> >
>> > The wiring diagram at:
>> >
>> > http://bandc.biz/14-SB1B.pdf
>> >
>> > shows three wires in a cable that attach to three terminals
>> > of the regulator. The dotted line leading to the toroidal
>> > shape below says that the sensor is used to detect current in
>> > the alternator b-lead.
>>
>>Had that, and this is exactly what the diagram depicts, 3 colored leads to
>>the
>>regulator and that the sensor somehow detects current in the B lead.
>>
>>The sensor is an AMPLOC device
>> > like those described in:
>> >
>> > http://amploc.com/PRO%20Series.pdf
>>
>>Didn't have that.
>>
>> > >2) If so, where does the unterminated end go?
>> > >3) If not, do the two ends come together somehow around the B-Lead,
>> > >and if
>> > >so how?
>> >
>> > The diagram is quite explicit
>>
>>I disagree, it may be intuitively obvious to you, but it is not in my
>>opinion
>>explicit. It shows only the annular ring, not the other free end of wire.
>>Since I've seen current sensors before, and none of them looked like a
>>common
>>ring terminal, I was a little sceptical that this (ring terminal on the
>>sensor)
>>was in fact the sensor lead. However, the diagram does not address the
>>free end
>>in any way, even if you do understand that the ring terminal is the
>>sensor.
>
> If you have a "sensor" that looks like a "common ring terminal" then
> it sounds like your talking about the temperature probe where temp
> sensing
> device is potted into a heavy copper ring terminal and the wire to the
> regulator is a single strand of shielded wire. How many wires are in
> the cable that runs to the regulator? Does the "sensor" look like
> one of the AMPLOC devices or does it look more like a solid copper
> ring terminal that might go on a 4AWG wire?
Actually, now that you mention it, it does not look like the Amploc device,
so now I'm really confused, because it came in a bag labelled "Current
Sensor 218-300" and has an white, organge/white, and blue/white signal
wires, and 2 white heavy gauge wires, one with a yellow ring terminal, the
other is unterminated, the ring terminal has a tag attached with safety wire
that says "towards alternator". I called B&C yesterday, but the guy who
answered said that somone would need to get back to me after lunch, and they
never returned the call. I'm going to try to attach a picture, though it
probably won't come through. If it does not, perhaps you could reply
directly to me so I can send the picture, because now I'm quite perplexed.
Brett
>>The #10 wire passes one time through the
>> > opening in the sensor. Further, the sensor should be marked as
>> > to which opening faces the alternator.
>>
>>It is so marked
>>
>> This will be described in
>> > the installation instructions
>>
>>They do not, at least not any instructions that recieved, the sensor
>>itself had
>>no instructions packed with it. Since the diagram (14-SB1B.pdf) did not
>>show
>>this (explicitly), I was at a loss. Granted, my alternators and
>>regulators
>>were shipped to my engine shop, and they cold have misplaced the sensor
>>instructions, so I don't assume that they were omitted by B&C.
>
> Have to talked to B&C about this? I think they're open this week.
>
>
>>The #10 wire is left un-terminated
>> > on one end so that it can be passed through the sensor. Most
>> > terminals
>> > that are used with #10 wire are too large. The end that has a
>> > terminal
>> > on it is probably sized to fit the alternator. The free end needs
>> > a terminal that matches the connection you choose to install at the
>> > bus end . . . probably the wiring screw on the 40A breaker.
>>
>>Since I'm using current limiters on the aft firewall of my canard
>>(Velocity),
>>and not a breaker, I will use the always-hot lug of the ANL. If the
>>diagram
>>showed this lead coming of the sensor to the alternator breaker with a
>>notation
>>of "bus sense", I would consider it to be explicit. The sensor and the
>>breaker
>>are depicted, why is this connection not? Thanks very much for you help,
>>Bob,
>>even if I'm overlooking the blindingly obvious. ;-)
>
> Okay . . . that's not a problem. We need to deduce whether or
> not you have the right parts. It sounds like you MIGHT have a
> temp sensor as opposed to a current sensor. They may have
> packed the wrong sensor. I use the AMPLOC sensors in my instrumentation
> tasks. Here's a photo of an AMPLOC sensor on a 3-wire lead. Does this
> look something like the sensor we're talking about?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to |
picture)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brett Ferrell" <bferrell@123mail.net>
OK - I've posted this picture here:
http://www.velocityxl.com/218-300.htm
Is it possible that maybe I've got a 2-in-1 current and temp sensor, and the
sensor is wrapped in shrink wrap?
Brett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to
picture)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>> Okay . . . that's not a problem. We need to deduce whether or
>> not you have the right parts. It sounds like you MIGHT have a
>> temp sensor as opposed to a current sensor. They may have
>> packed the wrong sensor. I use the AMPLOC sensors in my
>> instrumentation
>> tasks. Here's a photo of an AMPLOC sensor on a 3-wire lead.
>>
>>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/AmpLOC_Sensor.jpg
>>
>> Does this look something like the sensor we're talking about?
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to |
picture)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brett Ferrell" <bferrell@123mail.net>
Bob,
OK, after closer inspection, I see what I've got. What they've given me
*IS* the B lead for the SB-20, with the sensor already looped through it. I
just need to put the ring terminal over the B lead of the alternator and the
other end of the large gauge goes to the ANL, and wire the small wires to
the regulator. Very nice this way, I just didn't find any instruction
telling me that's what it was, and I was expecting to just get the sensor.
Thanks again.
Brett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: BandC current sensor (oops, forgot link to
picture)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>> Okay . . . that's not a problem. We need to deduce whether or
>> not you have the right parts. It sounds like you MIGHT have a
>> temp sensor as opposed to a current sensor. They may have
>> packed the wrong sensor. I use the AMPLOC sensors in my
>> instrumentation
>> tasks. Here's a photo of an AMPLOC sensor on a 3-wire lead.
>>
>>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/AmpLOC_Sensor.jpg
>>
>> Does this look something like the sensor we're talking about?
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 12/29/04 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rduplooy" <rduplooy@iafrica.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: AeroElectric-List Digest Server
To: AeroElectric-List Digest List
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2004 9:55 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 12/29/04
9. 01:27 PM - Re: Wiring Plans (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
Time: 01:27:26 PM PST US
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wiring Plans
>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:22 PM 12/18/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>. If install a premium battery, you're more inclined
to run it until it won't crank the engine any more. Install a garden
variety product and toss it every year
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the Z13 pdf.( Draft). I was unable to download the Z..dwg...'s...
I am looking for a 25A/h "garden variety"RG battery...?...To change on an annual
basis..?
Any brand names?
I Will be installing a GRT display-,Dual Plasma III,- B&C 60 A.Alt as well as
8A SD driven from vacuum pump.....
Do I not need a back-up battery of approx.8-17 A/h....for "not having an impulse
coupler -magneto"?.....(as a back-up spark supplier..)?
Thank you for your help thus far.
Robert
RV-8... Big Battery in the back behind backbencher...
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
12/30/2004
Previously from Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
<<....skip.....Airplane will be flown light IFR.....skip....>>
<<....skip.....I believe this is enough to fly light IFR.....skip....>>
12/30/2004
Hello Walter, I am curious about your concept of "light IFR".
Your panel appears robust enough to handle just about anything (maybe not
Cat II ILS).
I am inclined to think that IFR is a lot like pregnancy -- you either are
or not.
Thanks.
OC
PS: Great web site.
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
Not so. Here in Monterey, we have summer stratus that rolls in mid-afternoon
to late afternoon and clears the next morning. The stratus is normally 1000'
or less thick. So the procedure turn or vectors are in VMC and it's only
after the outer marker that IMC is encountered. If the stratus or even high
ground fog is from 800' to DH, then that is the harder approach to fly,
since it requires some "head-down" while still VMC. Lot's of fun, but it can
be down to minimums. However, one knows that a miss doesn't require long
climbs in the goo with big bumps.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: light IFR
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
> 12/30/2004
>
> Previously from Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> <<....skip.....Airplane will be flown light IFR.....skip....>>
>
> <<....skip.....I believe this is enough to fly light IFR.....skip....>>
> 12/30/2004
>
> Hello Walter, I am curious about your concept of "light IFR".
>
> Your panel appears robust enough to handle just about anything (maybe not
> Cat II ILS).
>
> I am inclined to think that IFR is a lot like pregnancy -- you either are
> or not.
>
> Thanks.
>
> OC
>
> PS: Great web site.
>
>
>
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 658 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now!
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 12/30 3:56, bakerocb@cox.net wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
> 12/30/2004
>
> Previously from Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> <<....skip.....Airplane will be flown light IFR.....skip....>>
>
> <<....skip.....I believe this is enough to fly light IFR.....skip....>>
> 12/30/2004
>
> Hello Walter, I am curious about your concept of "light IFR".
>
> Your panel appears robust enough to handle just about anything (maybe not
> Cat II ILS).
>
> I am inclined to think that IFR is a lot like pregnancy -- you either are
> or not.
Several factors lead me to believe that I will only fly "light" IFR.
Let me define what my notion of light IFR is; If there is the
possiblity/probability of T-storms, mod to heavy turb, or Icing
I'll be on the ground having a beer.
But I cannot be more specific since I'm not IFR rated. That is the
first thing I will rectify, as soon as the plane is flying. It has
been my intention all along, since I got my PPL, that getting
my ticket is #1 as far as items that can make me a more proficient
and safer pilot. But things got in the way, like work. Not any more.
I've configured the panel as I liked, keeping in mind that I want
to fly this plane to get my ticket. I may have to make some changes
to the panel down the road but this is a pretty good "first attempt".
I think I also went a bit nuts too. Oh well, it's only money.
And I'll have to fix that little issue you mentioned about not being
able to shoot a Cat II aproach :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 12
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Diodes
| Subject: | Re: Diagram of Duel Battery, Single |
Alternator with Steering Diodes
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Alternator with Steering Diodes
At 01:51 PM 12/30/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Banus" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
>
> >Is there a Diagram of Duel Battery, Single Alternator system with Steering
> >Diodes in Bob's plethora of drawings? I intend to have both batteries
> >being changed any time the master is on with the endurance bus separated
> >from the battery buss with a switch. I've looked but I must have missed
> >it. Thanks.
>
> No, that architecture is not recommended. That's not to say
> that you can't do it any way you wish but the functionality
> you're looking for is offered. What is the driver for adding
> a second battery? What problems do you see, for example,
> with Figure Z-11 with a second battery added per Z-30?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>Bob, They will work just fine. Thanks. Let me refine my question. If I
>use Z-11/30 with 2 batteries do I need to isolate the charging circuits
>from each other?
Nope. The use of contactors for isolation was selected so that
the two batteries could be used in tandem for both normal operations
(charging) and cranking. The only time you have an interest in
separating them is when the alternator fails. If you plan active
notification of low voltage, then you'll know seconds after the
failure event. Opening battery master switches either manually
or automatically is something which may be accomplished with a
rather leisurely pace. Whether you re-configure the system for
alternator-out ops in 5 seconds or one minute has no effect on
how the flight will proceed.
Batteries charge and discharge nicely in hard-wired parallel.
There are many hangar myths that argue with this philosophy . . .
none of which are supported by the physics of the matter.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Calibration of Amploc Current Sensors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
I'm using these sensors and would welcome any suggestions as to how to go about
calibrating them so they provide an accurate measure of current. The input is
to a Grand Rapid EIS.
Thanks
Mike Holland
RV9A in assembly
Message 14
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| Subject: | AMP 59500 Crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Banus" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
Anyone know what an AMP 59500 is used for?
Thanks
Mark Banus
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: AMP 59500 Crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Mark Banus wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Banus" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
>
>Anyone know what an AMP 59500 is used for?
>Thanks
>Mark Banus
>
>
Enter 59500 as a part # on this web page. It's used for crimping ferules
on several different cable types. After entering the number and clicking
"submit" Open the fifth "view" box for a description (second one down)
and the second "view" box for a picture (drawing).
http://ecommas.tycoelectronics.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController
Bob McC
Message 16
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| Subject: | E bus list opinions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
I'm laying out the systems for my panel and have hit an analysis paralysis
wall. I'd be grateful for opinions on what to put on the E bus.
I'm planning on using Z-13, with an SD-8, and dual batteries.
My panel has:
BMA Efis 1 (4 amps)
Garmin 480 (1.3 amps)
Altitude encoder. (unknown)
Garmin 33 transponder (the transponder is remotely operated by the 480) (2
amps)
Turn coordinator (drain unknown)
2 1/4" AI (drain unknown)
(TC and AI are 24 volts, fed from a DC/DC converter)
Cockpit lighting 1 amp
Electric trim, landing brake (rarely used, power supply is on a common IC
board)
Fuel pump (rarely used, shouldn't be a drain unless really needed)
2 each LSE ignitions. 3.6 amps
SL30 nav/com
Intercom/marker beacon
Strobes/Position lights
Landing lights
Main gear pump
Pitot heat
I'll be installing a DigiTrak autopilot in the fullness of time, driven off
the Garmin 480.
I'm currently VFR but will be getting my IFR shortly after the plane
flies. I live in Southern California, so most of my IFR will be through
early morning/late afternoon low clouds.
Opinions, anyone?
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