Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Re: COM static on 123.05 (Kingsley Hurst)
2. 04:17 AM - Re: Electronic Ignition and Engine Monitors (Trampas)
3. 07:06 AM - Re: Alternator control switch (Ken)
4. 07:22 AM - Re: Alternator control switch (Gary Casey)
5. 08:34 AM - Re: bnc 90 fittings in the tray (Charlie Kuss)
6. 09:13 AM - Ideas on Painting Panel (Ronald J. Parigoris)
7. 09:19 AM - How to light labels? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
8. 09:27 AM - Wire Separations (Jim.Piavis@sybase.com)
9. 09:28 AM - Re: KX-125 Problem Solved (Nightingale Michael)
10. 09:53 AM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (BobsV35B@aol.com)
11. 10:27 AM - Re: Digital Photos (Chuck Jensen)
12. 10:41 AM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (Alex Peterson)
13. 10:53 AM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (BobsV35B@aol.com)
14. 11:25 AM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (Dan Checkoway)
15. 11:46 AM - Ideas on Painting Panel (Mickey Coggins)
16. 11:54 AM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (Matt Prather)
17. 12:09 PM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (Dan Checkoway)
18. 12:11 PM - coax center pin crimping (Mickey Coggins)
19. 12:39 PM - Re: coax center pin crimping (Bobby Hester)
20. 12:42 PM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (Mickey Coggins)
21. 12:51 PM - LOAD dump comments (Paul Messinger)
22. 01:34 PM - Re: LOAD dump comments (Bobby Hester)
23. 01:46 PM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (Joel Harding)
24. 02:58 PM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (BobsV35B@aol.com)
25. 04:50 PM - [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT! (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
26. 05:58 PM - Re: How to light labels? (glaesers)
27. 06:31 PM - Re:coax center pin crimping (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
28. 07:25 PM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (Alex Peterson)
29. 07:30 PM - BNC 90 Connectors ()
30. 07:33 PM - Re: Ideas on Painting Panel (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
31. 11:20 PM - Re: Re: How to light labels? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | COM static on 123.05 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
Joe E wrote:-
> I've been scratching my head and searching the archives about this
problem. No static on 120.6 or 118.3. Static on 123.05 and 122.7.
My COM worked fine for > 125 hours and now this. . . . . . .
Joe,
A friend of mine has a Jabiru with the 3300 engine and he has short
earth wires running from each carburettor to the engine.
I understand this is a Jabiru Co mod because it was found the throttle
and choke cables were acting like aerials.
No experience with this myself but it might be worth a try.
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Mono Classic 281 in Oz
Message 2
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| Subject: | Electronic Ignition and Engine Monitors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
The Pulsar 200 has dual p-lead inputs as well as an inductive pickup for the
tachometer inputs.
The Pulsar 40 uses a square wave input which is compatible with most
electronic ignition. Additionally we supply adapter circuits if you want to
use inductive or P-leads.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart,
Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ignition and Engine Monitors
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
Randy I had the same issue on my ACS 2002 unit and since the pick up off
the mag is from the sensor and NOT the p-lead, then you will get the rpm
drop checking either unit with the ACS unit.
But I am with you, I was very disappointed to find this out.
Does yours get rpm from P-lead?
Mike
S8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
f1rocket@comcast.net
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ignition and Engine Monitors
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: f1rocket@comcast.net
Thought I'd share a "gotcha" that I found out about today. If you're
using a GRT EIS system and a Lightspeed Engineering electronic ignition,
you CANNOT use the Lightspeed to drive the RPM input to the EIS without
modification of the EIS unit. Sandy at EIS said she could walk me
through the modification, or I could send the unit in for them to fix.
Neither looked appealing to me so I'm just driving the RPM input from
the magneto instead.
If you are going to order an EIS unit, you might want to let them know
if you are using a LSE ignition system so they can ship the unit to you
correctly the first time.
As an aside, I'm a little disappointed that there isn't any way to drive
the RPM input with both signals. Now, I won't be able to measure the
RPM drop when the EI is shut off during run up. It's not a big deal,
but it would be nice if the EIS unit handled this.
I looked at using the other side of the DPDT mag switches to drive the
RPM input, but the progressive transfer switch used (I think it's a 2-5)
doesn't really work in this case.
Randy
F1 Rocket
www.pflanzer-aviation.com
Thought I'd share a "gotcha" that I found out about today. If you're
using a GRT EIS system and a Lightspeed Engineering electronic ignition,
you CANNOT use the Lightspeed to drive the RPM input to the EIS without
modification of the EIS unit. Sandy at EIS said she could walk me
through the modification, or I could send the unit in for them to fix.
Neither looked appealing to me so I'm just driving the RPM input from
the magneto instead.
If you are going to order an EIS unit, you might want to let them know
if you are using a LSE ignition system so they can ship the unit to you
correctly the first time.
As an aside, I'm a little disappointed that there isn't any way to drive
the RPM input with both signals. Now, I won't be able to measure the RPM
drop when the EI is shut offduring run up. It's not a big deal, but it
would be nice if the EIS unit handled this.
I looked at using the other sideof the DPDT mag switches to drive the
RPM input, but the progressive transfer switch used (I think it's a 2-5)
doesn't really work in this case.
Randy
F1 Rocket
www.pflanzer-aviation.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator control switch |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on juliet.albedo.net
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
It may be a little more complicated for an internal vr alternator. Yes
you need to switch off the power to the ov contactor after flight. If
using a double pole Batt/Alt switch for that, you would be at idle when
you turned it off during normal ops and it should not be a problem.
However if the DP switch is erroneously turned off in flight and the
batt contactor opens before or simultaneously with the ov contactor, it
seems to me that there will be a major load dump and I did not want that
risk with an electrically dependant EFI engine. So perhaps a separate
guarded ALT switch still makes sense in some cases.
Ken
(still looking for a source for the 5KP18, the mouser site says to
expect 14 weeks for a backorder)
snip
>This is how I wire things. The battery master switch is a double-pole
>unit with one pole controlling the battery contactor and the other
>controlling the alternator field. You can't turn off the battery with
>the alternator left on. If you really need the alternator off, pull the
>alternator field breaker.
>
>snip
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator control switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Lots of interesting posts on this general subject, which has to do with load
dumps. In an effort to keep things simple:
1. The simplest way to connect the alternator output seems to be via a
large fuse to the bus side of the master battery switch.
2. The alternator could be wired with no switch to the field supply except
a circuit breaker, which would be pulled if the need arose.
The "normal" split master switch shuts the battery and alternator field
supply off simultaneously. This would theoretically produce a load dump
event as the alternator won't instantly stop producing current and the
circuit to the battery is now open. Apparently this doesn't happen because
there is a longer delay in the master relay that what it takes to stop
alternator output?
Using a manual master contactor (large switch) takes away the simultaneous
nature of shutting off the battery and alternator field supply. In that
case I assume if the battery is disconnected there will be a load dump event
that will trigger the OV limit in the (B&C) regulator and shut off the
alternator. However, the load dump event will still be there and could be
of a fairly high voltage. The cure would be to remember to pull the
alternator field circuit breaker first. I hate having to "remember" things.
On the other hand, having to shut off the master with the engine running is
an extremely rare event - I've never had to do it in 35 years of flying. Or
one could connect the alternator output directly to the battery. I'm not
sure what's wrong with this as if there is a short in the alternator the
fuse will blow. If the alternator over-produces the normal OV system takes
care of it. Why NOT connect it directly to the battery? The only (very
unlikely) scenario that I can come up with that would make that a problem is
if the alternator developed a partial short - enough to prevent it from
delivering current, but not enough to blow the fuse. In that case it would
pull the battery down, making use of the endurance bus of very short
endurance.
Just trying to keep things simple,
Gary Casey
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: bnc 90 fittings in the tray |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Listers,
Did anyone else succeed in finding the part mentioned by OC below? I went
to Delta's site and used the PART FINDER search feature. No joy. Any
suggestions OC?
Charlie Kuss
snipped
>Hello Mike, This may help. The tray for my SL-30 (back when it was still
>built by UPS) came with two 90 degree BNC slide-into connections on it. I
>wanted straight ones (the opposite of your desires) and did some research. I
>discovered that my 90 degree BNC connections were from Delta ARF with a part
>number of 4205018N995.
>
>If you go to this URL and look at the lower left hand corner of the picture
>you will see that part.
>
>http://www.deltarf.com/specs.asp
>
>This part (or some other type from Delta) may solve your problem. Note how
>it is fastened to the back of the tray (with holes through flanges) and the
>fact that the coax cable gets routed directly into the fitting at a 90
>degree angle.
>
>Delta can be reached at 978-927-1060 or sales@deltaarf.com
>
>Good luck.
>
>OC
>
>PS: I never did get compatible straight fittings.
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Thx. for all who responded.
I will get hold of some supplies to sample test in near future.
Ron Parigoris
Message 7
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| Subject: | How to light labels? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Looking at Europa Panel, it sure would be nice to have labels for breakers and
switches
lighted.
Is there some sort of illuminated lets say EL or flat LED that can be engraved
or printed
on?
Perhaps some sort of stick on engraved mini label that can be lit with a surface
mount LED
or lit from behind?
Is there such a thing as a mini Black light or UV LED where you can make labels
with a
coating that will glow?
Other ideas?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wire Separations |
09:27:16 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim.Piavis@sybase.com
Bob,
I have several wire/cable runs that will need to run under the baggage and
seat floors in an RV-7. So far I have:
Flap Motor
Strobe cables to power supply
Strobe power supply power from main bus
Tail Nav Light power
Pitch Trim (RAC) cable bundle
Pitch Servo (TruTrak autopilot)
Transponder Antenna RG-400
What can I bundle together? The only constraint I know of is a possible
separation of the autopilot servo wires from the strobe cabling. I would
like to divide these into two bundles with XPNDR coax and Autopilot in one,
then the other in the second bundle.
Regards,
Jim
Jim Piavis
RV-7
Mountain View, CA
Message 9
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| Subject: | KX-125 Problem Solved |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichaelV@JohnDeere.com>
A couple listers recommended we check to make sure there was a jumper
> between Pins H and J. Sure enough.... no jumper! The builder/owner had
> indeed overlooked the jumper when he wired/installed the harness.
This jumper is between VOR/LOC in & VOR/LOC out. It then must go to remote devices.
Was flag at the VOR/LOC CDI in the center of the KX125 or in a remote CDI?
I'm running a KX125 as a stand alone, is the jumpper still needed?
Thanks
Michael V. Nightingale
@ DEERE & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST
MOLINE, IL. 61265
309-314-6806 cell NightingaleMichaelV@JohnDeere.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne
Sweet
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: KX-125 Problem Solved
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
Jack,
Could you give a source for the NAV antenna, web address please.
Thanks.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: KX-125 Problem Solved
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jack Lockamy
> <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
>
> Just wanted to report back on a recent post I made to the List... too many
> times I never see any "fixes" getting reported back to the group.
>
> The RV-7A I'm currently flying for my buddy (23.2 hours and counting...)
> has a KX-125 installed. Comm works great, NAV always showed 'FLAGGED'.
>
> A couple listers recommended we check to make sure there was a jumper
> between Pins H and J. Sure enough.... no jumper! The builder/owner had
> indeed overlooked the jumper when he wired/installed the harness.
>
> Jumper was installed. NAV works as good as the comm now. BTW.... the NAV
> antenna is a Bob Archer NAV antenna mounted in the RT wingtip. This thing
> was picking up VORs located on the other side of hills were flying AWAY
> from!!! Amazing....
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> Test Pilot N174TY
>
>
>
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 671 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 1/7/2005 11:14:49 A.M. Central Standard Time,
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US writes:
Thx. for all who responded.
I will get hold of some supplies to sample test in near future.
Ron Parigoris
Just a question, have you ever owned an airplane with a panel that had
crinkle paint?
I hate that finish!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 11
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| Subject: | RE: Digital Photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Bob,
What do you use for camera/lense and any special settings for the photos you
provide. We (at least me) would appreciate some clues on how to get
digitals with the same sharpness and fine detail.
Thanks
Chuck
Note: Reposted since unsure whether server sent email out the first time.
Do Not Archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen with a flat black
panel? I wouldn't consider anything else. There is enough glare with other
junk in the cockpit, why create more?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 563 glare-free hours, see link below
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/panel.htm
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 1/7/2005 12:42:16 P.M. Central Standard Time,
alexpeterson@earthlink.net writes:
I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen with a flat black
panel? I wouldn't consider anything else. There is enough glare with other
junk in the cockpit, why create more?
Good Afternoon Alex,
I think it is best if you have the panel painted just the way you like it.
Sixty years ago almost all instrument panels were flat black.
When I started in the business it was so. When we got the first Douglas
DC-6s, they came from the factory with a flat grey color on the panel. Many
folks thought that glare would be a problem. As the years went by, most airlines
switched away from the flat black. The same is true for most spam can
manufacturers. Boeing entered the glass cockpit era with the Boeing 767 and it
came with a flat beige color panel.
So far, I like the flat beige the best, but who knows what will be next.
The only one I really despise is the flat black crinkle finish.
Isn't it nice that we can all paint our panels any way we want?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen with a flat
black
> panel? I wouldn't consider anything else. There is enough glare with
other
> junk in the cockpit, why create more?
Personally I like higher contrast, i.e. dark instruments on a medium gray
panel. Not a big fan of black panels. Just my 2 cents.
http://images.rvproject.com/images/panel/panel_640x210.jpg
When I take photos, I get more glare from the instrument details & throttle
quadrant on the canopy than the panel itself. I find there's only really
one angle where I get a lot of glare -- down and to the left:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20040622_boston3.jpg
Most other angles I don't get any glare at all:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041122_mountains9.jpg
FWIW, I'm very happy with my Canon PowerShot A75 that I got a few months
ago. Reasonable price (less than $200), and more camera feature-wise than I
really need.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Gotta agree with you on this. I'm planning on a flat
black panel as well, mainly because I read a report
by NASA or some other reputable organization that
says it's the best color to use, and the F16 has
a black panel.
http://www.chez.com/lucskyflyer/Images/Etats-unis/F18/f18-cpt.jpg
http://www10.plala.or.jp/strgzr/swiss/sion/ch/f18_c.jpg
You never know, the Swiss AF might call me up to help them
out, and being used to the black panel will help speed
my transition from the RV8 to the F16. :-)
The main problem I have with the black panel is finding a
decent way to label it. If you have some hints, they are
most welcome!
Mickey
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
> I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen with a flat black
> panel? I wouldn't consider anything else. There is enough glare with other
> junk in the cockpit, why create more?
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 563 glare-free hours, see link below
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/panel.htm
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
If you aren't trying to fly the airplane and take pictures at the same time,
a piece of black cloth is a pretty manageable way to keep from getting a
bunch of glare in the frame. Hold the camera and part of the cloth with
one hand, and extend the cloth along the window to block the glare.
Regards,
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen with a flat
> black
>> panel? I wouldn't consider anything else. There is enough glare with
> other
>> junk in the cockpit, why create more?
>
> Personally I like higher contrast, i.e. dark instruments on a medium
> gray panel. Not a big fan of black panels. Just my 2 cents.
>
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/panel/panel_640x210.jpg
>
> When I take photos, I get more glare from the instrument details &
> throttle quadrant on the canopy than the panel itself. I find there's
> only really one angle where I get a lot of glare -- down and to the
> left:
>
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20040622_boston3.jpg
>
> Most other angles I don't get any glare at all:
>
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041122_mountains9.jpg
>
> FWIW, I'm very happy with my Canon PowerShot A75 that I got a few months
> ago. Reasonable price (less than $200), and more camera feature-wise
> than I really need.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> says it's the best color to use, and the F16 has
> a black panel.
>
> http://www.chez.com/lucskyflyer/Images/Etats-unis/F18/f18-cpt.jpg
>
> http://www10.plala.or.jp/strgzr/swiss/sion/ch/f18_c.jpg
Looks like a gray panel (and cockpit) to me, not black. Black instruments
on gray.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | coax center pin crimping |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I've got the recommended coax connector show on this page:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/coaxconn/crimpcm.jpg
I also have a tool that will crimp the outer sleeve, but
what should I use to crimp the center pin?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: coax center pin crimping |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2005 21:11 (CDT)
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: coax center pin crimping
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> I've got the recommended coax connector show on this page:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/coaxconn/crimpcm.jpg
>
> I also have a tool that will crimp the outer sleeve, but
> what should I use to crimp the center pin?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?9X358218#RCT-2
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bnccrimp.pdf
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>says it's the best color to use, and the F16 has
>>a black panel.
>>
>> http://www.chez.com/lucskyflyer/Images/Etats-unis/F18/f18-cpt.jpg
>>
>> http://www10.plala.or.jp/strgzr/swiss/sion/ch/f18_c.jpg
>
>
> Looks like a gray panel (and cockpit) to me, not black. Black instruments
> on gray.
>
Gee, you're right. That panel is so stuffed with black
instruments that I thought the panel itself was black.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | LOAD dump comments |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
Ken,
I had posted a few days ago that 3 1.5k 18V units was a far easier part to
find and just as good, in fact based on testing, Better than one 5K 18v unit
and in-stock most everywhere. Eric has a packaged assy that is easier to
install but a few more $$.
You also point out something I have been holding back for the report.
Its not when you command something to happen its when it finally takes
place.
Consider the 3 position switch Bob suggests for off, battery and battery and
alternator. Then use a Kilovac contactor for the battery and a auto starter
contactor for the alternator "B" lead.
The Kilovac opens in under 10 ms the auto contactor around 50 ms. If you
rapidly throw the toggle switch from alt to off you can generate a load dump
for nearly 40 ms with no battery to absorb the current surge and have
potentially high system voltages. 40 ms is quite long enough to damage
equipment considering the potential voltage increase.
Its worse if you have the standalone OVP and an internally regulated
alternator IF the OVP trips during flight; here is what happens. (This combo
is not recommended as I understand by Vans. And I agree! at least with any
type of crowbar OVP device.)
1. The OVP trips from real OV, not real OV, or fails and trips.
2. The design is such that this produces a dead short on the battery and
currents of 400-700+ AMPS result during the 50-80MS it takes for the 5 amp
CB to trip open.
3. During this shorted condition the bus voltage drops and the alternator
goes to FULL on in an attempt to correct the low voltage.
4. Then the CB opens and the alternator "B" lead contactor opens and the
alternator is still recovering from the "FULL" output condition as a full
load reduction can take 200ms and a nominal reduction in load can take 100ms
to recover from.
Thus the Crowbar OVP action not only shorts the buss it creates a load dump,
neither action is desirable or necessary. OVP protection does not need to be
crowbar in nature and surely not a unlimited current short.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Alternator control switch clamav-milter
version 0.80j on juliet.albedo.net
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
> It may be a little more complicated for an internal vr alternator. Yes
> you need to switch off the power to the ov contactor after flight. If
> using a double pole Batt/Alt switch for that, you would be at idle when
> you turned it off during normal ops and it should not be a problem.
>
> However if the DP switch is erroneously turned off in flight and the
> batt contactor opens before or simultaneously with the ov contactor, it
> seems to me that there will be a major load dump and I did not want that
> risk with an electrically dependant EFI engine. So perhaps a separate
> guarded ALT switch still makes sense in some cases.
>
> Ken
> (still looking for a source for the 5KP18, the mouser site says to
> expect 14 weeks for a backorder)
>
> snip
>
> >This is how I wire things. The battery master switch is a double-pole
> >unit with one pole controlling the battery contactor and the other
> >controlling the alternator field. You can't turn off the battery with
> >the alternator left on. If you really need the alternator off, pull the
> >alternator field breaker.
> >
> >snip
> >
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: LOAD dump comments |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 09:04 (CDT)
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: LOAD dump comments
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger"
>
> Eric has a packaged assy that is easier to
> install but a few more $$.
>
>
> Its worse if you have the standalone OVP and an internally regulated
> alternator IF the OVP trips during flight; here is what happens. (This combo
> is not recommended as I understand by Vans. And I agree! at least with any
> type of crowbar OVP device.)
Ok, so let me get this right.
If I add the "Whackjack" http://www.periheliondesign.com/whackjack18.htm to my currently installed Vans 60amp internally regulated alternator and Bob Nuckolls OV protection setup which includes a crowbar, then I will be ok and I won't fry my alternator.
I don't mind paying a little extra for a part, if I know it is going to do the
job, because somebody has done the test and knows that it will do the job. You
guys spent some time working on this.
What about it Bob Nuckolls, is this going to do what we need it do? Does it have
your blessings?
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
There is a big difference in glare factor between an airliner panel and
an RV. Due to the relatively narrow glare shield, and bubble canopy,
the RV with a light colored panel is going to expose you to a lot more
reflectivity. Like you Bob, I like the looks of the light colored
panels, but I'm not sure I would want to put up with all those
reflections produced in the RV. But hey, what ever floats your boat.
Joel Harding (Charcoal colored panel)
On Jan 7, 2005, at 11:52 AM, BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/7/2005 12:42:16 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> alexpeterson@earthlink.net writes:
>
> I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen with a flat
> black
> panel? I wouldn't consider anything else. There is enough glare
> with other
> junk in the cockpit, why create more?
>
>
> Good Afternoon Alex,
>
> I think it is best if you have the panel painted just the way you like
> it.
>
> Sixty years ago almost all instrument panels were flat black.
>
> When I started in the business it was so. When we got the first Douglas
> DC-6s, they came from the factory with a flat grey color on the panel.
> Many
> folks thought that glare would be a problem. As the years went by,
> most airlines
> switched away from the flat black. The same is true for most spam can
> manufacturers. Boeing entered the glass cockpit era with the Boeing
> 767 and it
> came with a flat beige color panel.
>
> So far, I like the flat beige the best, but who knows what will be
> next.
>
> The only one I really despise is the flat black crinkle finish.
>
> Isn't it nice that we can all paint our panels any way we want?
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
> AKA
> Bob Siegfried
> Ancient Aviator
> Stearman N3977A
> Brookeridge Airpark LL22
> Downers Grove, IL 60516
> 630 985-8502
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 1/7/2005 3:47:14 P.M. Central Standard Time,
cajole76@ispwest.com writes:
There is a big difference in glare factor between an airliner panel and
an RV. Due to the relatively narrow glare shield, and bubble canopy,
the RV with a light colored panel is going to expose you to a lot more
reflectivity. Like you Bob, I like the looks of the light colored
panels, but I'm not sure I would want to put up with all those
reflections produced in the RV.
Could be. I have never flown an RV.
However, I fly my Bonanza a lot at night. It has a light tan panel.
I also had the pleasure of putting four and a half hours in a USAF T-38 a
couple of years ago. It had a light grey panel and somewhat of a bubble canopy
I think the light colored panels are much more comfortable to use and I have
never noted any reflections due to them.
As you say: "But hey, what ever floats your boat"
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Do Not Archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics |
TONIGHT!
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Dear Listers,
Tonight, Friday 1/7/2005 at 7pm PDT, I will be working with my Internet
Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be
re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the
Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name
Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should
work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours
or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate
into the depths of the Internet.
If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a
bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it
again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of
the update or around 8pm PDT.
Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even
notice! :-)
Thanks for your patience!
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: How to light labels? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "glaesers" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
Ron,
Here are some commercial options available:
FiberLights:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/fiberlitelabels.php
Glow strips: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/glowstrips.php
(you can probably use these for backlighting)
I've been playing with doing my own backlighting. I had a local trophy shop
engrave a sample panel on a piece of black over white plastic (they have
lots of colors if you want to get creative). I mounted it on a panel which
was cut-out behind the words and put some bright LEDs behind it
(superbrightleds.com). The words light up great. Add a dimmer and you're
all set. You can even use colored LEDs (like red) if you don't like white
at night.
My test panel is an annunciator panel with LEDs (fault lights) mounted on
the panel . The backlighting comes through the LEDs, which I don't like, so
I'm working on a way to block that. I have some LED mounts coming which I
hope will solve that problem. I'll let you know.
On a switch panel, the switch body blocks wording close to the mounting hole
(like ON and OFF) but you can put the name of the switch far enough away
that it will light up just fine. I plan to make a test panel to see how
this looks - haven't gotten there yet. To mount the backlight LEDs, my
current thinking is to make a thin metal "Z" (only the bends are 90 degrees)
and drill one leg to be a doubler behind the switches and mount the LEDs on
the other leg.
SuperbrightLEDs.com does have UV LEDs. I didn't think about that
possibility.
Well, that't my $.02
Dennis Glaeser
Message 27
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| Subject: | coax center pin crimping |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Mickey the same crimper is used. It's the tiny hex crimper hole near the
tip.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Mickey Coggins
Subject: [[SPAM]] AeroElectric-List: coax center pin crimping
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
<mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I've got the recommended coax connector show on this page:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/coaxconn/crimpcm.jpg
I also have a tool that will crimp the outer sleeve, but
what should I use to crimp the center pin?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 28
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| Subject: | Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/7/2005 12:42:16 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> alexpeterson@earthlink.net writes:
>
> I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen
> with a flat black panel? I wouldn't consider anything else.
> There is enough glare with other junk in the cockpit, why
> create more?
>
>
> Good Afternoon Alex,
>
> I think it is best if you have the panel painted just the way
> you like it.
>
> Sixty years ago almost all instrument panels were flat black.
>
> When I started in the business it was so. When we got the
> first Douglas
> DC-6s, they came from the factory with a flat grey color on
> the panel. Many
> folks thought that glare would be a problem. As the years
> went by, most airlines
> switched away from the flat black. The same is true for most
> spam can
> manufacturers. Boeing entered the glass cockpit era with the
> Boeing 767 and it
> came with a flat beige color panel.
>
> So far, I like the flat beige the best, but who knows what
> will be next.
>
> The only one I really despise is the flat black crinkle finish.
>
> Isn't it nice that we can all paint our panels any way we want?
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
Yes, Bob, I agree regarding the black krinkle, makes them look like a tool
chest. Anyway, have you flown in a bubble canopy airplane like the RV?
Most store bought airplanes do not have direct sunlight on the panel like
the RV's do, so I might suspect that glare is more of a problem with them
than in a conventional plane.
To each their own...
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 563 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 29
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| Subject: | BNC 90 Connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: Charlie Kuss
<chaztuna@adelphia.net>
<<Listers, Did anyone else succeed in finding the part mentioned by OC
below? I went
to Delta's site and used the PART FINDER search feature. No joy. Any
suggestions OC? Charlie Kuss>>1/7/2005Hello Charlie, I can't find that part
either using Delta's part finder search feature.I suggest that you get that
picture in front of you on your computer and then call them up and ask them
for help.I have examined the back side of my Garmin 430 since your request
and am not that optimistic that that Delta connection will do the job for
you. It looks more like a bulkhead connector is needed to fasten into the
back of the 430. If there is such a thing as a BNC UG 90 degree bulkhead
fitting with the plug and the jack in the right orientation that should do
the job for you. I feel that there must be such a connection because there
were hundreds of different UG connection configurations. The problem is
findingthe mother lode of the pictures or diagrams of those connections so
that you can pick the right one.Something from Delta may still be your best
bet. Try the phone call.OC
Message 30
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| Subject: | Ideas on Painting Panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "earl_schroeder@juno.com" <earl_schroeder@juno.com>
With over 1000 hrs in a Mustang II with a 'wrinkle painted' panel I can say it
didn't bother us much. We didn't look at it much. <G> Earl
-- "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/7/2005 12:42:16 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> alexpeterson@earthlink.net writes:
>
> I'm curious, why do I have one of the only RV's I've seen
> with a flat black panel? I wouldn't consider anything else.
> There is enough glare with other junk in the cockpit, why
> create more?
>
>
> Good Afternoon Alex,
>
> I think it is best if you have the panel painted just the way
> you like it.
>
> Sixty years ago almost all instrument panels were flat black.
>
> When I started in the business it was so. When we got the
> first Douglas
> DC-6s, they came from the factory with a flat grey color on
> the panel. Many
> folks thought that glare would be a problem. As the years
> went by, most airlines
> switched away from the flat black. The same is true for most
> spam can
> manufacturers. Boeing entered the glass cockpit era with the
> Boeing 767 and it
> came with a flat beige color panel.
>
> So far, I like the flat beige the best, but who knows what
> will be next.
>
> The only one I really despise is the flat black crinkle finish.
>
> Isn't it nice that we can all paint our panels any way we want?
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
Yes, Bob, I agree regarding the black krinkle, makes them look like a tool
chest. Anyway, have you flown in a bubble canopy airplane like the RV?
Most store bought airplanes do not have direct sunlight on the panel like
the RV's do, so I might suspect that glare is more of a problem with them
than in a conventional plane.
To each their own...
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 563 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: How to light labels? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/07/2005 7:59:36 PM Central Standard Time,
glaesers@wideopenwest.com writes:
To mount the backlight LEDs, my
current thinking is to make a thin metal "Z" (only the bends are 90 degrees)
and drill one leg to be a doubler behind the switches and mount the LEDs on
the other leg.
>>>>
I had pretty good luck using project board cut into thin strips and mounted
with 1/4" standoffs- the LEDs and resistors are soldered direct to the project
board in gangs of 3 and 4, and shine through panel overlays cut by Steve Davis
(Panel Pilot) in Memphis TN. Dimming is by PWM kit from Marlin Jones:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=4057+MD
modified to remove the F/R switch and remote mounting a higher quality pot to
the panel. I'd suggest doing some testing which LEDs to use here- I used the
superbrights and they are just that- SUPER BRIGHT! I'd use standard ones
next time...
fotos on request...
Mark Phillips
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