Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 AM - Re: Hall effect sensor (Brian Lloyd)
2. 05:52 AM - Re: turning off an internally regulated (Nightingale Michael)
3. 08:00 AM - Re: AMP CPC connectors and Pins (John Schroeder)
4. 09:23 AM - Re: AMP CPC connectors and Pins (Tim Olson)
5. 10:52 AM - Question re circuit breakers (Neil K Clayton)
6. 11:25 AM - Re: Question re circuit breakers (rv-9a-online)
7. 02:36 PM - Re: AMP CPC connectors and Pins (John Schroeder)
8. 10:38 PM - Lost Linik for Pilot Stick Grip Switches (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Hall effect sensor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
Glen Matejcek wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi All-
>
> A short while ago, someone (Bob, I believe) made the suggestion to run both
> the main and stby alt B leads through the same Hall effect sensor. Seems
> like a pretty nifty idea, but something just came to mind. The
> installation instructions for the SD-8 call for the leads from the SD-8 all
> the way to the battery to be a twisted pair. How close can the ground wire
> be to the Hall effect sensor before it starts to influence the sensor vs.
> the need to maintain the twisted pair for noise suppression?
Twist the pairs together but split them as they pass through the
hall-effect sensor. Pass the ground lead outside.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
http://www.lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest.
A good citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 2
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| Subject: | turning off an internally regulated |
alternator
alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichaelV@JohnDeere.com>
According to the FAQ's on AERO SPORT POWER home page.
*Does the 40amp internally regulated alternator you provide on your O-360 have
a switchable lead for the alternator field ?
Yes, this switch allows you to shut off the alternator without pulling the main
output circuit breaker
http://www.aerosportpower.com/f_a_q_'s.htm
Michael V. Nightingale
@ DEERE & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST
MOLINE, IL. 61265
309-314-6806 cell NightingaleMichaelV@JohnDeere.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
Messinger
Subject: AeroElectric-List: turning off an internally regulated
alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
> then there's nothing at risk for turning
> the main alternator OFF and aux alternator ON during runup to
> check your ignition system(s).
ALL the Jap internally regulated alternators INCL ND (that I have looked at
and that is quite a few but no where all types and ND alone has several
different designs) cannot be turned off once turned on and running.
Toggle the alt ON OFF connection all you want but the internal regulator is
LATCHED on.
IS vans ND different??
Its possible to disconnect the "B" lead using the CB but that is
disconnecting not turning off the alternator.
Paul
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: AMP CPC connectors and Pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Tim -
The machined pins you can buy from B&C and other places can be used in
both the DSubs and the AMP CPC Type II connectors. We have used a few
DSubs to connect to equipment and some wire-to-wire connections. But we
switched to CPC Type II's for 24-20 AWG wires connecting to wires because
the difficulty tightening the Dsubs was too hard in cramped spaces. We
just de-pinned the DSubs and inserted the wires/pins into the Type II's.
For AWG 18 and a couple of 16's, we used gold plated pins in Type I CPC's.
If you need to put AWG 22-20 wires into a Type I because you have the
space, be sure to get some pins that are sized for those wire gauges. And
the open barrel crimper die is different for the smaller pins. I don't
know much about the types of gold plated pins, but you get much more long
term reliability out of the gold ones (50 de-mates vs. 500 de-mates - as I
read somewhere). All of the avionics shops use gold plated pins for
warranty considerations.
We also used a lot of Molex Mini-Fit Juniors for connections because you
can get them in 2,3,6 ... pin configurations and the have a latch lock.
Much better than the regular Molex connectors. Their pins are 9 amp and we
used 18 AWG on down to 24 (trim actuators, indicators, etc.). Be sure to
get a pin remover if you go this way. Also, the open barrel crimper works
on these, but get the smaller pins as well as the the larger pins.
I'd buy the machined pins and crimper from B&C. We tried another brand of
screw machined pins for some of the CPc's and they do not work nearly as
well. They seem to come out of the B&C crimper with a bit of a bend where
the crimp is made.
Hope this helps.
John
> I'm getting ready to buy some AMP CPC connectors just as connectors at
> the wing root for my pitot, landing, Nav, Strobe, and stall warning
> connections, so that I can wire the wings, and connect the connector
> at the time I join the wings to the fuse.
>
> In looking at the CPC varieties, I want to make sure I get the
> appropriate style and pin type. I'm looking at Digikey's
> online catalog starting at page 244.
>
> I was planning on Series 1 sealed plastic connectors, since the contacts
> can handle 13A, and I have nothing that will draw that much.
>
> Then, I already own a crimper that does the standard crimping of these
> connectors, where the two tabs on the tail make "m" shaped crimps.
> BUT, I see that they make nice, screw machined crimp connectors that
> seem to be similar to the D-sub pins that I'm about to buy,along
> with the required crimper. Would these be better, and would they
> crimp with the same crimper used on the D-sub pins? Digikey does
> list a couple of crimpers like the Pro-Crimper II with dies for
> $145.50 for series 1 contacts. I don't know if this is better than
> what I own though. I have a nice ratcheting crimper for AMP pins.
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: AMP CPC connectors and Pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks again John, you're very helpful.
I do have a follow-up though. Today I'm having good luck figuring
out the pins for the most part. I also checked on my OD specs for
the wires to buy the proper pins.
The follow-up is what open-barrel crimper do you suggest? I looked
at mine this a.m. and found it was just a cheap one, not a nice
ratcheting one. For around $150 you can get an AMP Pro Crimper II
with the proper dies, but I'm hoping for something a little more
affordable that will still do a good job. Mine isn't too far off
from the BCT-1, B-Crimp from B&C.
As for the Type I vs Type II, I just went with Type I because I
have the space and the pins are larger for more current capacity.
A couple of 9-pins for the Autopilot servo wires, and a couple of
16-pins for the misc. wires. That should cover anything except
if I go with strobe power that's not at the wingtips, I'm not
going to run those with the rest of the wires. Same with any
RF cables.
Thanks for the tip on the Molex Mini-Fit's....I'll save that for future
reference so I don't have to ask later!
Tim
John Schroeder wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
> Tim -
>
> The machined pins you can buy from B&C and other places can be used in
> both the DSubs and the AMP CPC Type II connectors. We have used a few
> DSubs to connect to equipment and some wire-to-wire connections. But we
> switched to CPC Type II's for 24-20 AWG wires connecting to wires because
> the difficulty tightening the Dsubs was too hard in cramped spaces. We
> just de-pinned the DSubs and inserted the wires/pins into the Type II's.
> For AWG 18 and a couple of 16's, we used gold plated pins in Type I CPC's.
> If you need to put AWG 22-20 wires into a Type I because you have the
> space, be sure to get some pins that are sized for those wire gauges. And
> the open barrel crimper die is different for the smaller pins. I don't
> know much about the types of gold plated pins, but you get much more long
> term reliability out of the gold ones (50 de-mates vs. 500 de-mates - as I
> read somewhere). All of the avionics shops use gold plated pins for
> warranty considerations.
>
> We also used a lot of Molex Mini-Fit Juniors for connections because you
> can get them in 2,3,6 ... pin configurations and the have a latch lock.
> Much better than the regular Molex connectors. Their pins are 9 amp and we
> used 18 AWG on down to 24 (trim actuators, indicators, etc.). Be sure to
> get a pin remover if you go this way. Also, the open barrel crimper works
> on these, but get the smaller pins as well as the the larger pins.
>
> I'd buy the machined pins and crimper from B&C. We tried another brand of
> screw machined pins for some of the CPc's and they do not work nearly as
> well. They seem to come out of the B&C crimper with a bit of a bend where
> the crimp is made.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> John
>
>
>
>>I'm getting ready to buy some AMP CPC connectors just as connectors at
>>the wing root for my pitot, landing, Nav, Strobe, and stall warning
>>connections, so that I can wire the wings, and connect the connector
>>at the time I join the wings to the fuse.
>>
>>In looking at the CPC varieties, I want to make sure I get the
>>appropriate style and pin type. I'm looking at Digikey's
>>online catalog starting at page 244.
>>
>>I was planning on Series 1 sealed plastic connectors, since the contacts
>>can handle 13A, and I have nothing that will draw that much.
>>
>
>
>>Then, I already own a crimper that does the standard crimping of these
>>connectors, where the two tabs on the tail make "m" shaped crimps.
>>BUT, I see that they make nice, screw machined crimp connectors that
>>seem to be similar to the D-sub pins that I'm about to buy,along
>>with the required crimper. Would these be better, and would they
>>crimp with the same crimper used on the D-sub pins? Digikey does
>>list a couple of crimpers like the Pro-Crimper II with dies for
>>$145.50 for series 1 contacts. I don't know if this is better than
>>what I own though. I have a nice ratcheting crimper for AMP pins.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Tim@MyRV10.com
Wing Kit - Almost Complete
QB Fuse - Coming soon!
'77 Sundowner - Flying
Message 5
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| Subject: | Question re circuit breakers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil K Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Forgive what I'm sure is a fundamental question but looking at the spec for
P&B W23 series breakers, it says max operating voltage 50VDC.
I'll be running it 12VDC in my plane.
so a 10amp breaker (say) will draw 50V x 10 A = 500 Watts to pop it when
running at 50V
but will only draw 12V x 10A = 120 Watts when in my 12V plane.
My question is, since these are thermal devices, how do it know when to pop?
Thanks
Neil
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Question re circuit breakers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
Neil, the voltage rating of a breaker is the maximum voltage at which
the breaker will operate, not a factor in the computation of power. A
breaker is normally a thermal device (will trip based on internal
temperature), with a designed resistance, call it R. The heat (power)
is the current (I) squared times the resistance or I
2 * R. The energy
is power times time or I
2 * R * t. Energy produces heat, heat trips
the breaker. Voltage has nothing directly to do with the operation of
the breaker, only current and time.
You can see that in an ideal world, if a 10A breaker that takes 10
seconds to trip at 10A, would take only 100 milliseconds to trip at
100A. Breakers are not ideal devices, but you get the picture.
I hope this is helpful.
Vern Little
Neil K Clayton wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil K Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>
>Forgive what I'm sure is a fundamental question but looking at the spec for
>P&B W23 series breakers, it says max operating voltage 50VDC.
>I'll be running it 12VDC in my plane.
>
>so a 10amp breaker (say) will draw 50V x 10 A = 500 Watts to pop it when
>running at 50V
>but will only draw 12V x 10A = 120 Watts when in my 12V plane.
>
>My question is, since these are thermal devices, how do it know when to pop?
>
>Thanks
>Neil
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: AMP CPC connectors and Pins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Tim -
I bought a Paladin 1300 series ratcheting crimper frame and 2 sets of
dies. One set (#2082) has a slot for 24-30 AWG open barrel and another for
18-22 AWG open barrel. This combo does Molex Mini-Fit Juniors, AMP CPC
Type I, AMP Mate 'N Lock "Craps" (the kind that Whelan sends along with
their light and strobe kits) and the older Molex connectors (almost as bad
as the AMP Mate 'N Locks). The machined pin crimper from B&C is specially
modified to do perfect crimps on the AMP brand machined pins. They set the
depth so that the diamond crimp is at the right position on the pin. I
have done about 80 percent of all crimps with these two crimpers and the
8082 die set for the Paladin. You can also get a Paladin die set for
crimping Red, Blue and Yellow PIDG terminals. While you are at it, buy a
set of dies for the RG-58/BNC connectors.
The other set of dies (no number) for the Paladin has slots for 22-18,
16-14 and 12-10 open barrels. I used this set to crimp a few AWG16 and a
couple of AWG 12 wires to Molex Mini Fit Senior connectors (landing/taxi
lights and pitot heat, respectively). The Paladin is a medium quality
crimper and the dies are very good quality. The frame and both sets of
dies were $76. I bought them from GreatCables.com
Unless a specific piece of equipment like the Dynon or some of the
avionics require DSubs, I would strongly recommend going with Type II AMP
CPC's for free hanging or panel mount connectors that connect multiple
wires in bundles. They are much easier to secure, not that much more
expensive, easier to mate and they use the same pins as the DSubs.
Hope this helps.
John
PS: What kind of airplane are you building? Ours is a Lancair Super ES.
> The follow-up is what open-barrel crimper do you suggest? I looked
> at mine this a.m. and found it was just a cheap one, not a nice
> ratcheting one. For around $150 you can get an AMP Pro Crimper II
> with the proper dies, but I'm hoping for something a little more
> affordable that will still do a good job. Mine isn't too far off
> from the BCT-1, B-Crimp from B&C.
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lost Linik for Pilot Stick Grip Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
All,
Can some point top the link where the AEROELECTRIC Connection Pilot Stick
Grip Switches Priority Options REV B 14 MAR 04 is found
I have an old print out that I ripped and would like to re print it.
Thanks In advance Jeff.
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