Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:09 AM - Nippon denso alternators (Richard Garforth)
2. 07:13 AM - Re: Nippon denso alternators (Ken)
3. 09:18 AM - Re: Intercom Problems in my RV-4 (Leo J. Corbalis)
4. 09:46 AM - Avionics Wiring Questions (f1rocket@comcast.net)
5. 10:00 AM - Re: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 (James E. Clark)
6. 10:23 AM - Re: Avionics Wiring Questions (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 10:42 AM - Re: Avionics Wiring Questions (Bobby Hester)
8. 11:01 AM - crossfeed contactor (Ron Raby)
9. 11:10 AM - Re: Avionics Wiring Questions (rv-9a-online)
10. 12:13 PM - Re: crossfeed contactor (Ken)
11. 12:35 PM - Re: crossfeed contactor (Ron Raby)
12. 12:55 PM - Re: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 (Vern W.)
13. 01:48 PM - Re: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 (James E. Clark)
14. 02:24 PM - Re: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 (Rick Girard)
15. 02:41 PM - Avcomm Intercom (Scott Aldrich)
16. 04:52 PM - Re: electric gyros (N1deltawhiskey@aol.com)
17. 05:29 PM - Re: crossfeed contactor (John Schroeder)
18. 07:05 PM - Re: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 (Dean)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Nippon denso alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard Garforth" <richard@hawk.flyer.co.uk>
I am seeking some help with sourcing replacement parts (regulator and diode pack)
for the Vans supplied Nippon -Denso 60 amp alternator. I am located in the
UK and the alternator model is not recognised by the local repair shops. I would
be grateful if anyone can tell me the original vehicle the alternator was fitted
to/part nos. and a US source of parts that will deal via the web.
Richard
G-RVIX (RV-9A)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nippon denso alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Around here only the general parts stores ever ask for the model and
year. The real alternator rebuilders only want the Nippon-Denso number
off the alternator. ND makes quite a number of alternators for non
automotive applications which includes most of the 70amp or less units.
If you have it, you might e-mail the Nippon Denso number to a larger
rebuilder or a North American rebuilder if necessary. A good rebuilder
will also replace the slip rings etc. if required and return a
good-as-new unit if you elect to exchange it. I believe the parts lists
are regularly updated and supplied on CD to rebuilders. You can even try
googling the part number to see what comes up.
Ken
Richard Garforth wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard Garforth"
<richard@hawk.flyer.co.uk>
>
>I am seeking some help with sourcing replacement parts (regulator and
diode pack) for the Vans supplied Nippon -Denso 60 amp alternator. I am
located in the UK and the alternator model is not recognised by the
local repair shops. I would be grateful if anyone can tell me the
original vehicle the alternator was fitted to/part nos. and a US source
of parts that will deal via the web.
>
>
>Richard
>G-RVIX (RV-9A)
>
Message 3
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|
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Problems in my RV-4 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
Check EVERY connection starting inside your headset, a substitute headset
will bypass a lot of connections, all the way back to your transmitter. It
sounds like something warms up and makes good contact. Low volts would only
cause problems during the low volt period. Also check power and ground to
the intercom.
Leo Corbalis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Intercom Problems in my RV-4
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon"
<deanpichon@msn.com>
>
> I have found, recently, that on cold days my intercom does not work well.
> This problem seems to coincide with a "weakened" battery condition caused
by
> not flying for a couple of weeks. With this combination of cold weather
and
> weak battery, my intercom generates a lot of static. My transmissions are
> difficult to understand due to the static levels, but reception remains
> fine. After 30-40 minutes of flying, performance improves dramatically.
>
> The plane has no heat, so I don't believe it is an ambient temperature
issue
> as the cockpit remains cold. PS Engineering, the manufacturer of my
> intercom, has told me that the intercom performance is sensitive to supply
> voltage, but once the engine is running, the alternator supplies an
> indicated 14.2 volts to the system.
>
> After the airplane sits for a couple of weeks, the battery voltage is
about
> 12.0-12.1 volts (with the instrument panel powered up) Priming with the
> electric fuel pump momentarily drops the voltage to 11 volts. Cranking
the
> engine momentarily drops the voltage to 9+ volts.
>
> Is it likely or possible that my panel is not receiving sufficient voltage
> or current to satisfy the needs of the intercom? All other instruments
> appear to work properly.
>
> Dean Pichon
> Bolton, MA
> RV-4
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Avionics Wiring Questions |
0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: f1rocket@comcast.net
What's the proper way to split a serial (RS232) signal wire? Can I tap into it
at any place? Can I actually chain wires together from the output pin of the
first device to the input pin of the second device?
Also, I understand that ARINC 429 signal wires cannot be tapped into the same way
as serial wires. What's the proper way to split a ARINC 429 wire? Do I just
crimp/solder two output wires off of the output pin of the sending device?
Finally, is there an internet source for the wire connector pins that go into the
Garmin 430 chassis?
Thanks.
Randy
F1 Rocket (nearing completion)
What's the proper way to split a serial (RS232) signal wire? Can I tap into it
at any place? Can I actually chain wires together from the output pin of the first
device to the input pin of the second device?
Also, I understand that ARINC 429 signal wires cannot be tapped into the same way
as serial wires. What's the proper way to split a ARINC 429 wire? Do I just
crimp/solder two output wires off of the output pin of the sending device?
Finally, is there an internet source for the wire connector pins that go into the
Garmin 430 chassis?
Thanks.
Randy
F1 Rocket (nearing completion)
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Vern,
I am using Z-14 in an RV6A with a similar mission profile as you mention. I
went through a different logic.
The weight of the two PC680s + cases + regulators do in fact weigh a little
bit more (than the "normal" battery used in the RVs) BUT for me, I decided
that I would rather take the extra pounds off ME and keep the implied
operational simplicity and reliability of Z-14.
The way I see it ... any single power source failure, I am require to do
*nothing* "right now. Items will be split beforehand so that I can fly home
using only the "left" or the "right" electrical system. If I WANT something
from one side that is totally dead to work, I can just throw the crossfeed
switch **IF** it is not already thrown.
Also, the SD20 will need some "juice" on the field wire so you will need
some sort of external regulator for it (not required for the SD8).
I suspect you have gone through this line of thinking already and discarded
it though.
James
{SNIP}
|
| --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vern W." <vernw@ev1.net>
|
| Thanks to John and the others who have had some good comments on this
| subject, and I'm still listening if others have something to add. I hope
| discussing this publicly also helps others in the middle of planning
| their
| electrical systems.
|
| The reason I like the Z13 design so much is that it's really a very
| simple system that can overcome either an in-air primary alternator
| failure
| or a battery failure (or both, for that matter).
| What I'm building is a "cross country" RV7-A with all electric IFR
| panel
| plus Electronic ignition so I definitely want to make my electrical
| system
| bullet proof. At the same time, being an RV, I'd rather not carry an
| extra
| battery if I don't have to as long as I get the backup power I can count
| on.
| Plus, I would be in a less puckerable situation if the backup alternator
| was
| able to supply 20 amps rather than just 8 amps.
| In my mind, and thinking through various failure scenarios, the Z13
| design with the SD20 (instead of the SD8) is really as reliable as the
| Z14
| and without the extra weight of an additional battery.
| If both alternators AND a single battery (Z13 design) were to fail at
| the same moment, then considering the odds against a failure of that
| nature,
| I'm thinking that perhaps that would mean that I just got a direct
| invitation to have a personal conversation with God. :-|
|
| So you see my quandry. I'm not considering so much to save money
| because
| either way costs lots of $$. I'm more concerned with not needing to add
| another battery on a light aircraft, but still end up with enough
| dependable
| power so that the flight can end uneventfully and with almost all
| electrics
| humming along nicely on just the SD20 if need be.
| Even though Bob (hisownself) says that just replacing the SD8 with
| the
| SD20 "wouldn't be (his) choice of architectures", I still want to explore
| that possibility. He doesn't argue against it from a dependability
| standpoint, he just seems to think that (probably) for the money, you
| might
| as well install a second battery (which I don't want to do).
| From what's been said so far, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, it
| looks like all I would need to do is to simply use the SD20 in the Z13
| schematic instead of the SD8, and still use ALL of the rest of the
| original
| Z13 parts including the regulator shown and the OV Crowbar setup and wire
| everything up exactly the same? In other words, just plug in an SD20
| instead
| of the SD8?
|
| Vern
|
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
| To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14
|
|
| > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
| <jschroeder@perigee.net>
| >
| > Vern -
| >
| > We did a solution similar to Dan's. We are using the basic Z-14 &
| > installing the SD-20 on an IO-550. We are not crossfeeding for start.
| So
| > we are installing 2 20 AH batteries. The #1 battery holder is large
| enough
| > to go to a 25AH battery if necessary for cranking. The original design
| was
| > to accommodate two items that may have brown-out problems. One was the
| > aerosance FADEC; which would not function if the busses went below a
| > certain voltage due to cranking. We also wanted to have a separate buss
| > arrangement for each of the two fadec channels. The other was because
| of
| > Blue Mountain's design of the EFIS ONE. Once the FADEC solution was
| > decided it made sense to put the EFIS on the # 2 buss and not worry
| about
| > cranking effects on the EFIS or fadec. Since then, we canned the fadec,
| > but are keeping the same architecture. Eventually we will add
| electronic
| > ignition and separate channels would work for that.
| >
| > I have a .pdf of the Z-14 power layout if you would like to look at it.
| >
| > Cheers,
| >
| > John
| >
| >
| > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien"
| > > <danobrien@cox.net>
| > >
| > >
| > > Vern,
| > >
| > > I had the same question a couple years ago. The following exchange
| with
| > > Bob helped me. I decided to go with Z-14.
| > >
| > > >I am planning on using the SD-20 so I can have a little
| > > >more juice in the event of main alternator
| > > >failure (to cover pitot heat, for example.)
| > > >How should Z-13 be modified to wire in the SD-20 instead
| > > >of the SD-8?
| > >
| > > Bob wrote:
| > > How about a variation on Z-14. Use S704-1 relays for
| > > a low current (30A) cross-feed, and as the battery
| > > relay for a small (6 a.h. or so) battery to stabilize
| > > the SD-20 when the cross-feed is open. Use the Aux
| > > Bus as you would the E-bus and put all the main-alt-out
| > > en route loads on the Aux Bus. You wouldn't close the
| > > cross-feed during cranking in this case so a single
| > > pole, single throw cross-feed switch would suffice.
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
|
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Avionics Wiring Questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
According to John Stark from Stark avionics. Arinc and Serial lines can
be split in parallel (definitely not series) to 3 devices w/o
appreciable loss in signal to cause unit data failure.
Mike
I have 3 off my serial, 2 off ARINC in they work fine.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
f1rocket@comcast.net
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Wiring Questions
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: f1rocket@comcast.net
What's the proper way to split a serial (RS232) signal wire? Can I tap
into it at any place? Can I actually chain wires together from the
output pin of the first device to the input pin of the second device?
Also, I understand that ARINC 429 signal wires cannot be tapped into the
same way as serial wires. What's the proper way to split a ARINC 429
wire? Do I just crimp/solder two output wires off of the output pin of
the sending device?
Finally, is there an internet source for the wire connector pins that go
into the Garmin 430 chassis?
Thanks.
Randy
F1 Rocket (nearing completion)
What's the proper way to split a serial (RS232) signal wire? Can I tap
into it at any place? Can I actually chain wires together from the
output pin of the first device to the input pin of the second device?
Also, I understand that ARINC 429 signal wires cannot be tapped into the
same way as serial wires. What's the proper way to split a ARINC 429
wire? Do I just crimp/solder two output wires off of the output pin of
the sending device?
Finally, is there an internet source for the wire connector pins that go
into the Garmin 430 chassis?
Thanks.
Randy
F1 Rocket (nearing completion)
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Wiring Questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: f1rocket@comcast.net
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com (Aeroelectric List)
> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 17:45:08 +0000
>
> Finally, is there an internet source for the wire connector pins that go
> into the Garmin 430 chassis?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Randy
> F1 Rocket (nearing completion)
http://www.steinair.com/connectors.htm
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | crossfeed contactor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
To Everyone
If the crossfeed contactors coil is being powered from the side that is
dead, it will not work. Does it make sense to power the coil to this
contactor from both battery busses?
Regards
Ron Raby
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Wiring Questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
The 'Proper Way' is to drive each connection independently, however in
practice you can get away with two or three loads depending on the
distance and bit rate. If you are concerned about the integrity of your
RS-232 signals, and want to drive each load independently, you can use
an RS-232 repeater, such as described at:
http://www3.telus.net/aviation/vx
The SST-U2 device can drive either two discrete serial channels, or one
channel can drive two loads independently.
Vern Little
RV-9A
f1rocket@comcast.net wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: f1rocket@comcast.net
>
>What's the proper way to split a serial (RS232) signal wire? Can I tap into it
at any place? Can I actually chain wires together from the output pin of the
first device to the input pin of the second device?
>
>Also, I understand that ARINC 429 signal wires cannot be tapped into the same
way as serial wires. What's the proper way to split a ARINC 429 wire? Do I just
crimp/solder two output wires off of the output pin of the sending device?
>
>Finally, is there an internet source for the wire connector pins that go into
the Garmin 430 chassis?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Randy
>F1 Rocket (nearing completion)
>
>What's the proper way to split a serial (RS232) signal wire? Can I tap into it
at any place? Can I actually chain wires together from the output pin of the
first device to the input pin of the second device?
>
>Also, I understand that ARINC 429 signal wires cannot be tapped into the same
way as serial wires. What's the proper way to split a ARINC 429 wire? Do I just
crimp/solder two output wires off of the output pin of the sending device?
>
>Finally, is there an internet source for the wire connector pins that go into
the Garmin 430 chassis?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Randy
>F1 Rocket (nearing completion)
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: crossfeed contactor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Take a look at Z-14. Either side can power the crossfeed through the
diodes. Just ground the other side of the coil to energize it. There are
pics of the prewired crossfeed on the B&C site.
Ken
Ron Raby wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
>
>To Everyone
>
>If the crossfeed contactors coil is being powered from the side that is
>dead, it will not work. Does it make sense to power the coil to this
>contactor from both battery busses?
>
>Regards
>
>Ron Raby
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: crossfeed contactor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Ken
Thanks, I see it now.
Ron Raby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: crossfeed contactor
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
> Take a look at Z-14. Either side can power the crossfeed through the
> diodes. Just ground the other side of the coil to energize it. There are
> pics of the prewired crossfeed on the B&C site.
> Ken
>
> Ron Raby wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby"
>><ronr@advanceddesign.com>
>>
>>To Everyone
>>
>>If the crossfeed contactors coil is being powered from the side that is
>>dead, it will not work. Does it make sense to power the coil to this
>>contactor from both battery busses?
>>
>>Regards
>>
>>Ron Raby
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vern W." <vernw@ev1.net>
James,
Yes, I have given the Z14 design some thought but I'm still confident
(enough) in the
reliability of the Z13 design. I researched a little further and found that
you
are right that the SD20 is not a simple PM alternator like the SD8 so the
SD20 would
in fact need a different regulator and something to excite it (it's own
battery being first choice of exciter).
I just wish there were a PM alternator like the SD8, but that put out a
few more amps like around 12 to 14. That would do the trick for me. B&C does
have a 14amp dynamo, but it's not for the lycoming engine.
In the end, I guess I really need to decide if I want to use the Z13
design as is, or the Z14 design as is.
By the way, do you fly with the crossfeed contactor closed all the time
or does that create a conflict between the two different regulators? Or do
you normally operate with the crossfeed contactor open and so are truly
flying with two separate systems until a time comes when one side has to
feed the other?
Also, who you calling fat :-) ?
Thanks,
Vern
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
<james@nextupventures.com>
>
> Vern,
>
> I am using Z-14 in an RV6A with a similar mission profile as you mention.
I
> went through a different logic.
>
> The weight of the two PC680s + cases + regulators do in fact weigh a
little
> bit more (than the "normal" battery used in the RVs) BUT for me, I decided
> that I would rather take the extra pounds off ME and keep the implied
> operational simplicity and reliability of Z-14.
>
> The way I see it ... any single power source failure, I am require to do
> *nothing* "right now. Items will be split beforehand so that I can fly
home
> using only the "left" or the "right" electrical system. If I WANT
something
> from one side that is totally dead to work, I can just throw the crossfeed
> switch **IF** it is not already thrown.
>
> Also, the SD20 will need some "juice" on the field wire so you will need
> some sort of external regulator for it (not required for the SD8).
>
> I suspect you have gone through this line of thinking already and
discarded
> it though.
>
> James
>
>
> {SNIP}
>
this
hope
count
alternator
at
explore
it
wire
design
the
buss
fadec,
it.
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Ooopps. Didn't mean to imply anything about anyone but me. I was calling
**ME** overweight. :-)
Second, I am NOT flying yet.
I would *probably* fly with the cross-feed closed **IF** I confirm that this
does not cause a problem. The way I see it, my larger (B&C) alternator would
have a bit more load and its regulator would cause it to come online. It
would do the charging of both batteries.
This will mean that all things will be able to get juice from all sources so
to speak.
Otherwise, I will fly with it open and if "stuff goes dark", I throw the
cross-feed switch.
It just seems so much cleaner from an operational standpoint. Maybe I am
kidding myself but I feel I then have twice the reliability (two potentially
independent systems) for keeping the lights on. Belt and suspenders so I
sweat less if I am ever IFR, at night, over the mountains, blah, blah :-)
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-
| aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vern W.
| Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 3:58 PM
| To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
| Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14
|
| --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vern W." <vernw@ev1.net>
|
| James,
| Yes, I have given the Z14 design some thought but I'm still confident
| (enough) in the
| reliability of the Z13 design. I researched a little further and found
| that
| you
| are right that the SD20 is not a simple PM alternator like the SD8 so the
| SD20 would
| in fact need a different regulator and something to excite it (it's own
| battery being first choice of exciter).
| I just wish there were a PM alternator like the SD8, but that put out
| a
| few more amps like around 12 to 14. That would do the trick for me. B&C
| does
| have a 14amp dynamo, but it's not for the lycoming engine.
| In the end, I guess I really need to decide if I want to use the Z13
| design as is, or the Z14 design as is.
|
| By the way, do you fly with the crossfeed contactor closed all the
| time
| or does that create a conflict between the two different regulators? Or
| do
| you normally operate with the crossfeed contactor open and so are truly
| flying with two separate systems until a time comes when one side has to
| feed the other?
|
| Also, who you calling fat :-) ?
|
| Thanks,
| Vern
|
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
| To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14
|
|
| > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
| <james@nextupventures.com>
| >
| > Vern,
| >
| > I am using Z-14 in an RV6A with a similar mission profile as you
| mention.
| I
| > went through a different logic.
| >
| > The weight of the two PC680s + cases + regulators do in fact weigh a
| little
| > bit more (than the "normal" battery used in the RVs) BUT for me, I
| decided
| > that I would rather take the extra pounds off ME and keep the implied
| > operational simplicity and reliability of Z-14.
| >
| > The way I see it ... any single power source failure, I am require to
| do
| > *nothing* "right now. Items will be split beforehand so that I can fly
| home
| > using only the "left" or the "right" electrical system. If I WANT
| something
| > from one side that is totally dead to work, I can just throw the
| crossfeed
| > switch **IF** it is not already thrown.
| >
| > Also, the SD20 will need some "juice" on the field wire so you will
| need
| > some sort of external regulator for it (not required for the SD8).
| >
| > I suspect you have gone through this line of thinking already and
| discarded
| > it though.
| >
| > James
| >
| >
| > {SNIP}
| >
| > |
| > | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vern W." <vernw@ev1.net>
| > |
| > | Thanks to John and the others who have had some good comments on
| this
| > | subject, and I'm still listening if others have something to add. I
| hope
| > | discussing this publicly also helps others in the middle of planning
| > | their
| > | electrical systems.
| > |
| > | The reason I like the Z13 design so much is that it's really a
| very
| > | simple system that can overcome either an in-air primary alternator
| > | failure
| > | or a battery failure (or both, for that matter).
| > | What I'm building is a "cross country" RV7-A with all electric
| IFR
| > | panel
| > | plus Electronic ignition so I definitely want to make my electrical
| > | system
| > | bullet proof. At the same time, being an RV, I'd rather not carry an
| > | extra
| > | battery if I don't have to as long as I get the backup power I can
| count
| > | on.
| > | Plus, I would be in a less puckerable situation if the backup
| alternator
| > | was
| > | able to supply 20 amps rather than just 8 amps.
| > | In my mind, and thinking through various failure scenarios, the
| Z13
| > | design with the SD20 (instead of the SD8) is really as reliable as
| the
| > | Z14
| > | and without the extra weight of an additional battery.
| > | If both alternators AND a single battery (Z13 design) were to
| fail
| at
| > | the same moment, then considering the odds against a failure of that
| > | nature,
| > | I'm thinking that perhaps that would mean that I just got a direct
| > | invitation to have a personal conversation with God. :-|
| > |
| > | So you see my quandry. I'm not considering so much to save money
| > | because
| > | either way costs lots of $$. I'm more concerned with not needing to
| add
| > | another battery on a light aircraft, but still end up with enough
| > | dependable
| > | power so that the flight can end uneventfully and with almost all
| > | electrics
| > | humming along nicely on just the SD20 if need be.
| > | Even though Bob (hisownself) says that just replacing the SD8
| with
| > | the
| > | SD20 "wouldn't be (his) choice of architectures", I still want to
| explore
| > | that possibility. He doesn't argue against it from a dependability
| > | standpoint, he just seems to think that (probably) for the money,
| you
| > | might
| > | as well install a second battery (which I don't want to do).
| > | From what's been said so far, and someone correct me if I'm
| wrong,
| it
| > | looks like all I would need to do is to simply use the SD20 in the
| Z13
| > | schematic instead of the SD8, and still use ALL of the rest of the
| > | original
| > | Z13 parts including the regulator shown and the OV Crowbar setup and
| wire
| > | everything up exactly the same? In other words, just plug in an SD20
| > | instead
| > | of the SD8?
| > |
| > | Vern
| > |
| > |
| > | ----- Original Message -----
| > | From: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
| > | To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| > | Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14
| > |
| > |
| > | > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
| > | <jschroeder@perigee.net>
| > | >
| > | > Vern -
| > | >
| > | > We did a solution similar to Dan's. We are using the basic Z-14 &
| > | > installing the SD-20 on an IO-550. We are not crossfeeding for
| start.
| > | So
| > | > we are installing 2 20 AH batteries. The #1 battery holder is
| large
| > | enough
| > | > to go to a 25AH battery if necessary for cranking. The original
| design
| > | was
| > | > to accommodate two items that may have brown-out problems. One was
| the
| > | > aerosance FADEC; which would not function if the busses went below
| a
| > | > certain voltage due to cranking. We also wanted to have a separate
| buss
| > | > arrangement for each of the two fadec channels. The other was
| because
| > | of
| > | > Blue Mountain's design of the EFIS ONE. Once the FADEC solution
| was
| > | > decided it made sense to put the EFIS on the # 2 buss and not
| worry
| > | about
| > | > cranking effects on the EFIS or fadec. Since then, we canned the
| fadec,
| > | > but are keeping the same architecture. Eventually we will add
| > | electronic
| > | > ignition and separate channels would work for that.
| > | >
| > | > I have a .pdf of the Z-14 power layout if you would like to look
| at
| it.
| > | >
| > | > Cheers,
| > | >
| > | > John
| > | >
| > | >
| > | > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien"
| > | > > <danobrien@cox.net>
| > | > >
| > | > >
| > | > > Vern,
| > | > >
| > | > > I had the same question a couple years ago. The following
| exchange
| > | with
| > | > > Bob helped me. I decided to go with Z-14.
| > | > >
| > | > > >I am planning on using the SD-20 so I can have a little
| > | > > >more juice in the event of main alternator
| > | > > >failure (to cover pitot heat, for example.)
| > | > > >How should Z-13 be modified to wire in the SD-20 instead
| > | > > >of the SD-8?
| > | > >
| > | > > Bob wrote:
| > | > > How about a variation on Z-14. Use S704-1 relays for
| > | > > a low current (30A) cross-feed, and as the battery
| > | > > relay for a small (6 a.h. or so) battery to stabilize
| > | > > the SD-20 when the cross-feed is open. Use the Aux
| > | > > Bus as you would the E-bus and put all the main-alt-out
| > | > > en route loads on the Aux Bus. You wouldn't close the
| > | > > cross-feed during cranking in this case so a single
| > | > > pole, single throw cross-feed switch would suffice.
| > | >
| > | >
| > |
| > |
| > |
| > |
| > |
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
|
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick Girard <fly.ez@verizon.net>
Vern, Your local John Deere dealer has PM alternators up to 60 amps,
IIRC. Sorry I don't have part numbers, but you might be able to find
them by searching the archives of the Aircraft Rotary Engine (ACRE) web
site.
Rick Girard
Message 15
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Aldrich" <sa@mwutah.com>
Does anyone have any experiences, good or bad, with the Avcomm DX-AC6PA
intercoms??
Thanks,
Scott
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: electric gyros |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
In a message dated 23-Feb-05 21:40:11 Pacific Standard Time,
robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca writes:
If you are using breakers as opposed to fuses
then the time lag for a breaker to trip might heat your #26 or #28 wire
to well beyond the insulation melting point before the breaker gets
around to tripping.
Think that is why Bob/B&C distributes their fuselink kits with a fire
resistive sleeve - to catch that stuff. Ultimately, the link is supposed to operate
even slower than a breaker, and much slower than a fuse. Look at is as being
a different kind of fuse (real slow blow) for certain applications. A direct
short down stream would probably produce enough current to MELT THE COPPER.
Hopefully this occurs before the wire one is protecting melts its insulation,
and why 4 wire sizes smaller is commonly recommended.
Doug Windhorn
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: crossfeed contactor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Ron -
If I read the Z-14 diagram correctly, the crossfeed coil is fed from both
sides thru the two diodes. Let me know if this is true.
Thanks,
John
> If the crossfeed contactors coil is being powered from the side that is
> dead, it will not work. Does it make sense to power the coil to this
> contactor from both battery busses?
>
> Regards
>
> Ron Raby
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Vern
Try http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/dynamo.html . It has some
of the info that you are looking for.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Girard" <fly.ez@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Mixing Z13 and Z14
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick Girard <fly.ez@verizon.net>
>
> Vern, Your local John Deere dealer has PM alternators up to 60 amps,
> IIRC. Sorry I don't have part numbers, but you might be able to find
> them by searching the archives of the Aircraft Rotary Engine (ACRE) web
> site.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
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