Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:08 AM - Re: Interior lighting (Harley)
2. 05:26 AM - Electronic Ign (Charles Heathco)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: Interior lighting (Chuck Jensen)
4. 06:11 AM - Re: Interior lighting (Troy Maynor)
5. 06:49 AM - Re: Electronic Ign (Wayne Sweet)
6. 06:56 AM - Re: Interior lighting (Chuck Jensen)
7. 07:04 AM - Re: Electronic Ign (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:09 AM - Re: Re: alternator as load (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:57 AM - Re: Electronic Ign (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
10. 09:03 AM - Re: DigiKey Batteries (David Carter)
11. 09:12 AM - Re: Interior lighting (Glaeser, Dennis A)
12. 09:40 AM - Re: 21st century power systems. (John Swartout)
13. 10:24 AM - Connectors (John Danielson)
14. 10:38 AM - Re: Connectors (Jeff Orear)
15. 10:56 AM - Re: Connectors (Ronald J. Parigoris)
16. 11:16 AM - Re: Connectors (John & Amy Eckel)
17. 11:49 AM - Re: Re: alternator as load ()
18. 12:15 PM - Re: Connectors (D Wysong)
19. 02:17 PM - Re: 21st century power systems. (Paul Messinger)
20. 05:26 PM - Re: Re: Interior lighting (John Schroeder)
21. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Interior lighting (Stein Bruch)
22. 07:45 PM - Re: Electronic Ign (Chris & Kellie Hand)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
Morning, Doug...
Ahh! I see what you are talking about! Those ARE neat! Funny thing,
though ...it shows the item and allows you to add them to your cart, but
if you request the details, the page, as you said, is no longer available.
But, a quick search using Google turned up these (and a little cheaper
than West's prices):
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/LED_Lighting.asp
There are probably better deals out there if I look a little further.
Harley
N1deltawhiskey@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
>
>Harley,
>
>This lights I had in mind can be found at:
>
>http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearch
>
>but when clicking on the item, the page is no longer active. Their prices
>were also at least double what I had remembered (could be the impact of the
>falling dollar since I bought mine perhaps 3 years ago.
>
>These are the ones I had in mind:
>
>http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServi
>ces/Marine/LED_Lamps/LED_Stair/LED_Stair.jsp
>
>Check out some of the other Hella LED light. You'll have to see where you
>might find them though if West Marine no longer distributes (at their prices,
I
>can understand a low demand).
>
>Regards, Doug
>
>
>
>
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I read, with intrest, all posts re P-mag and the "next big thing" . I was about
to order a lightspeed, and see that the E-mag is much cheaper. My question is-
can anyone vouch for reliability/improved effeciency of either, better yet,
a webb adr with comparisons? Having had recent power loss on takeoff,(carb), I
am most interested in reliability. Charles heathco Atl.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
I installed the 'white' version of this light in the overhead ventilation plenum
of a Velocity.
http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServices/Marine/Interior_Exterior/Model_8516/Model_8516.jsp It's tied to the battery instead of master so I can shut everything down and use the light for loading/unloading at night without the master being on. I installed a local on/off push button. The LED draw is so low that if I inadvertantly left it on for a few days, it wouldn't kill the battery. It gives a soft illumination of the cabin that could be used as a backup for panel illumination, though its not enough to read maps...at least for 50 year old eyes.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Interior lighting
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
Harley,
This lights I had in mind can be found at:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearch
but when clicking on the item, the page is no longer active. Their prices
were also at least double what I had remembered (could be the impact of the
falling dollar since I bought mine perhaps 3 years ago.
These are the ones I had in mind:
http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServi
ces/Marine/LED_Lamps/LED_Stair/LED_Stair.jsp
Check out some of the other Hella LED light. You'll have to see where you
might find them though if West Marine no longer distributes (at their prices, I
can understand a low demand).
Regards, Doug
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Hi All,
About a week and half ago I was watching a custom car program on cable and
this guy was putting some lighting into a custom car. I occured to me this
product could be used for instrument or interior lighting in my Europa. I
wrote down the product generic name and googled it when I got home. Then low
and behold when I opened the latest copy of Kitplanes there was my idea.
Could someone more familiar with the electrics of this comment. I saw a
similar product at Sun N Fun but it was a lot more costly. The website is
http://www.elwirecheap.com/ . I am not sure if the cold cathode tubes would
be better or the EL wire or tape would be better electrically. The EL tape
would be perfect for the instrument lighting under the glareshield. Just not
sure about the electrical setup and inverter, etc. it mentions. It's cheap
and all kinds of colors available. I also need to be able to vary the
intensity. Will this work? I saw a potentiometer setup at one point on the
site then lost my way and could not find it again. Comments anyone in the
know?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ign |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
I have had a LSE CDI system in my IO-360 for a little over 200 hours with no
problems as yet. LSE has been around for many years and probably many
builders have more time than do I.
E-Mags and P-Mags are relatively new, but the technology seems (SEEMS)
inviting. I'm waiting on more proof time in many aircraft.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ign
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
> <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
> I read, with intrest, all posts re P-mag and the "next big thing" . I was
> about to order a lightspeed, and see that the E-mag is much cheaper. My
> question is- can anyone vouch for reliability/improved effeciency of
> either, better yet, a webb adr with comparisons? Having had recent power
> loss on takeoff,(carb), I am most interested in reliability. Charles
> heathco Atl.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Troy,
Some of this was covered in an earlier thread. A couple of posters who ordered
'stuff' from this company said it should be call El Cheapo Wire instead. It
may be okay, but those purchasers were less than satisfied. YRMV.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Troy
Maynor
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Interior lighting
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Hi All,
About a week and half ago I was watching a custom car program on cable and
this guy was putting some lighting into a custom car. I occured to me this
product could be used for instrument or interior lighting in my Europa. I
wrote down the product generic name and googled it when I got home. Then low
and behold when I opened the latest copy of Kitplanes there was my idea.
Could someone more familiar with the electrics of this comment. I saw a
similar product at Sun N Fun but it was a lot more costly. The website is
http://www.elwirecheap.com/ . I am not sure if the cold cathode tubes would
be better or the EL wire or tape would be better electrically. The EL tape
would be perfect for the instrument lighting under the glareshield. Just not
sure about the electrical setup and inverter, etc. it mentions. It's cheap
and all kinds of colors available. I also need to be able to vary the
intensity. Will this work? I saw a potentiometer setup at one point on the
site then lost my way and could not find it again. Comments anyone in the
know?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ign |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:25 AM 3/8/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
><cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>I read, with intrest, all posts re P-mag and the "next big thing" . I was
>about to order a lightspeed, and see that the E-mag is much cheaper. My
>question is- can anyone vouch for reliability/improved effeciency of
>either, better yet, a webb adr with comparisons? Having had recent power
>loss on takeoff,(carb), I am most interested in reliability. Charles
>heathco Atl.
We're never going to see a scientific analysis of
relative reliability between various offerings to
the OBAM aircraft community. Such studies take time
and talents seldom found in the skunk-works environment.
Further, reliability studies are predicated on top-notch
craftsmanship and best-we-know-how-to-do designs.
For example, I can cite several very important systems
on certified aircraft that received the benefits of a
stellar "reliability" studies . . . all of which failed
miserably in real life.
The best we can do for the e-mag/p-mag guys is
apply the light and scrutiny of experience and common
sense which rightly suggests that low parts count,
good craftsmanship and utilization of modern components
go a long way toward assuaging concerns.
There is very little field history on this product
but I'm confident that it will be as good or better
than what's presently offered. I have photographs
of gross mechanical failures of components in
one of the popular electronic ignition products . . .
The electronic design and component selection is
fine but the craftsmanship stinks.
Besides, comparing carburetor problems (you only
have one of those) with ignition problems (where
there are two) is probably not a useful effort.
Current offerings are the best we knew how to do
10-15 years ago. Agreed, they are now a relatively
known quantity, so are tractor mags. However, the
experience and common sense perceptions of the
e-mag/p-mag products are both encouraging and
exciting. If you have any concerns, run one
e-mag/p-mag and a tractor mag for awhile.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: alternator as load |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:11 AM 3/8/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong@xs4all.nl>
>
> > **
> >
> >leakage through the diode array only . . . nanoamperes perhaps?
> >
> > **
>
>
>Sorry Bob, should have looked in the book first - Chapter 3, alternator,
>3 phases, 6 diodes...
No problem . . . and the illustration in chapter 3 may not
be all inclusive . . .
There are many automotive products these days that do not go
to zero current draw when off. My wife's Saturn has about 50
milliamperes of constant drain on the battery with the car parked.
Don't know where all this current is going but for a car that is
used regularly, it's transparent to the owner. I don't know if
modern alternators might have some need for a small amount of
current to keep some feature active . . . trying to second
guess a creative engineer 10,000 miles away while sitting here
at a keyboard is not real risky but it's not a sure bet either.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
1300 hrs on a pair of LSE's
Trouble free. Not even a fouled plug.
Mike
Rv
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sweet
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ign
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet"
<w_sweet@comcast.net>
I have had a LSE CDI system in my IO-360 for a little over 200 hours
with no
problems as yet. LSE has been around for many years and probably many
builders have more time than do I.
E-Mags and P-Mags are relatively new, but the technology seems (SEEMS)
inviting. I'm waiting on more proof time in many aircraft.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ign
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
> <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
> I read, with intrest, all posts re P-mag and the "next big thing" . I
was
> about to order a lightspeed, and see that the E-mag is much cheaper.
My
> question is- can anyone vouch for reliability/improved effeciency of
> either, better yet, a webb adr with comparisons? Having had recent
power
> loss on takeoff,(carb), I am most interested in reliability. Charles
> heathco Atl.
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: DigiKey Batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
When "naming" batteries, manufacturers -and we - use the term "xx amp hours
battery", i.e., it will last that many hours at a 1 amp discharge rate. The
Panasonic "20 amp hour" battery spec sheet shows the battery capacity as:
20 hours at a 1 amp discharge rate, thus, it's a 20 amp hour battery.
- Further down, it shows the "1 hour rate" - the battery will provide
12 amps for 1 hour. From other reading, I assume the battery would reach
10.5 volts at the end of 1 hours at 12 amps.
- I like this "1 hour rating" as a "book answer of what my "endurance
load should be at or below" to be able to go an hour before battery is new
"empty". I hope we can get this "1 hour rating" for each "candidate"
battery.
I'm using an SVR-20 (an 18 ah battery) - I just requested the factory
provide the "1 hour rate" so I can compare it to the Panasonic. The SVR is
just slightly smaller (by fractions of an inch)
The SVR spec sheet says it weighs 15#. My scales showed 15.8 #. I checked
"calibration" of the scales with 1 gal of water and corrected from 16.25#
reading to 15.8# actual.
- The "book" weights of "15# for SVR and "14.6" for Panasonic are about
the same.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DigiKey Batteries
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 05:28 AM 3/7/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ben Schneider
<plumberben@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Bob,
> >
> > As per one of our discussions at the Wicks seminar this past weekend
> >(which I thoroughly enjoyed by the way), I find that Digikey lists two
> >Panasonic batteries that are the same size physically, but one is a 17AH
> >12V battery, and the other a 20AH 12v battery, both have "nut/bolt"
> >terminals on them. (part number P174-ND @ $38.36, weighs 14.3lbs, and
part
> >number P231-ND @ $44.68, weighs 14.6lbs) In my simple mind, wouldn't it
be
> >wise to get the 20AH battery that is the same size, almost no weight
> >difference, and only 6 bucks more. Just to refresh your memory, I am
using
> >a Mazda rotary engine that is electrically dependant, and will have dual
> >bat/dual alt.
> >
> > Am I missing something? Seems to me to be an obvious choice.
>
> I agree. See data sheets on Panasonic batteries at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Batteries
>
> Note the 1220 offers not only a higher capacity but
> a lower internal resistance as well. The 20 a.h.
> device seems a prudent choice.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
I purchased a couple of the EL tapes and wires - both thin and thick - to
play with from elcheapwire.com. I didn't get the tubes - figuring they
would be too fragile. I got yellow and 'red' (more pinkish to my eye) tapes
and yellow and red flexible wires, and a couple of inverters.
The quality of the stuff is marginal, but OK (just doesn't look robust).
The inverters and tapes come with small connectors. The EL wires you have
to terminate yourself - the instructions on their website explain how to do
that. The small 'outer' wires on the EL wire are really small - hair thin
actually, but are fairly strong. They are 'springy' so if you twist them
together they don't stay, so it takes a bit of playing to get a neat
connection.
The amount of light they produce is very low compared to incadescent bulbs
and bright LEDs. It does vary somewhat with voltage - but I only played
with 9V and 12V lantern batteries. The inverters make a low volume but very
high-pitched whine when powered. I have not played with them in or near an
aircraft so I have no idea about electrical noise. One other lister
previously noted that he experienced some headset noise especially when
connecting multiple tapes in series. He said in parallel they were not a
problem. YMMV.
My interest is in panel backlighting (vs. under glareshield lighting).
Since the amount of light produced is rather low, the tape or wire needs to
be very close or touching the back of the item being backlit (an engraved
plastic placard in my case). The wires are not very useful for this because
they are very thin (especially the thinner ones) and literally only the
width of the wire effectively backlights. You would need to run multiple
parallel wires - almost touching - to effectively backlight wording. The
tape is much better - as long as your lettering is no wider than the tape
(1/2 inch in this case - I think you can get wider stuff elsewhere).
In my work area with 'normal' lighting (a fluorescent light above the work
area), the backlighting of my placard with the 'red' tape at 12V is not
noticeable. If I turn off the fluorescent light and turn on an incadescent
bulb in another part of the room, you can sort of tell it's backlit - but it
doesn't help much. In very low light it is definitely backlit and is
visible. I've tried to get pictures with my digital camera, but they always
come out blurry due to 1) the autofocus doesn't work well in low light and
2) without the flash, the exposure is long and the lighted areas are fuzzy
due to overexposure. I can put my crummy pictures on my website if anyone
is interested.
I've also played with LED backlighting, and it is much brighter - you'd
definitely want to have them on a dimmer, but would be much more visible in
medium light conditions. I don't think the EL tape would need a dimmer. I
made a small row of high-flux LEDs - a home made version of the 3" LED Bars
found at http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Leds.htm
<http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Leds.htm> (I made mine before I
discovered these) and they work great as a backlight. I also have crummy
pictures of these.
Mounting is the design challenge in my opinion. You could sandwich the EL
tape between the engraved panel and the IP, but I don't like the added
thickness, so I'd want it behind the panel. I plan on having the engraved
plastic panels as an overlay in front of the IP and have cutouts in the IP
behind the lettering. Mounting the EL tape (which is adhesive backed) is
easiest: it would be mounted on a strip of aluminum and held against the
back of the IP with clips or screws. The LED bars would need to be mounted
back away from the panel by about an inch on some sort of bracket.
I'm a long way from implementation, so I'll be looking for some good ideas
from you guys when the time comes :-)
Dennis Glaeser
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen"
<cjensen@dts9000.com
<mailto:cjensen@dts9000.com?subject=RE:%20Interior%20lighting&replyto=200503
081454.j28EskA13268@matronics.com> >
Troy,
Some of this was covered in an earlier thread. A couple of posters
who ordered
'stuff' from this company said it should be call El Cheapo Wire
instead. It
may be okay, but those purchasers were less than satisfied. YRMV.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com?subject=RE:%20Interior%
20lighting&replyto=200503081454.j28EskA13268@matronics.com>
[mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com?subject=RE:%20Interior%
20lighting&replyto=200503081454.j28EskA13268@matronics.com"owner-aeroelectri
c-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:HYPERLINK > ]On Behalf Of Troy
Maynor
To: Aeroelectric List
Subject: Re: Interior lighting
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor"
<wingnut54@charter.net
<mailto:wingnut54@charter.net?subject=RE:%20Interior%20lighting&replyto=2005
03081454.j28EskA13268@matronics.com> >
Hi All,
About a week and half ago I was watching a custom car program on
cable and
this guy was putting some lighting into a custom car. I occured to
me this
product could be used for instrument or interior lighting in my
Europa. I
wrote down the product generic name and googled it when I got home.
Then low
and behold when I opened the latest copy of Kitplanes there was my
idea.
Could someone more familiar with the electrics of this comment. I
saw a
similar product at Sun N Fun but it was a lot more costly. The
website is
http://www.elwirecheap.com/ <http://www.elwirecheap.com/> . I am
not sure if the cold cathode tubes would
be better or the EL wire or tape would be better electrically. The
EL tape
would be perfect for the instrument lighting under the glareshield.
Just not
sure about the electrical setup and inverter, etc. it mentions. It's
cheap
and all kinds of colors available. I also need to be able to vary
the
intensity. Will this work? I saw a potentiometer setup at one point
on the
site then lost my way and could not find it again. Comments anyone
in the
know?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2657.73">
Re: Interior lighting
I purchased a couple of the EL tapes and wires - both thin and thick - to play
with from elcheapwire.com. I didn't get the tubes - figuring they would be too
fragile. I got yellow and 'red' (more pinkish to my eye) tapes and yellow and
red flexible wires, and a couple of inverters.
The quality of the stuff is marginal, but OK (just doesn't look robust). The inverters
and tapes come with small connectors. The EL wires you have to terminate
yourself - the instructions on their website explain how to do that. The small
'outer' wires on the EL wire are really small - hair thin actually, but are
fairly strong. They are 'springy' so if you twist them together they don't stay,
so it takes a bit of playing to get a neat connection.
The amount of light they produce is very low compared to incadescent bulbs and
bright LEDs. It does vary somewhat with voltage - but I only played with 9V and
12V lantern batteries. The inverters make a low volume but very high-pitched
whine when powered. I have not played with them in or near an aircraft so I have
no idea about electrical noise. One other lister previously noted that he
experienced some headset noise especially when connecting multiple tapes in series.
He said in parallel they were not a problem. YMMV.
My interest is in panel backlighting (vs. under glareshield lighting). Since the
amount of light produced is rather low, the tape or wire needs to be very close
or touching the back of the item being backlit (an engraved plastic placard
in my case). The wires are not very useful for this because they are very thin
(especially the thinner ones) and literally only the width of the wire effectively
backlights. You would need to run multiple parallel wires - almost touching
- to effectively backlight wording. The tape is much better - as long as
your lettering is no wider than the tape (1/2 inch in this case - I think you
can get wider stuff elsewhere).
In my work area with 'normal' lighting (a fluorescent light above the work area),
the backlighting of my placard with the 'red' tape at 12V is not noticeable.
If I turn off the fluorescent light and turn on an incadescent bulb in another
part of the room, you can sort of tell it's backlit - but it doesn't help much.
In very low light it is definitely backlit and is visible. I've tried to
get pictures with my digital camera, but they always come out blurry due to 1)
the autofocus doesn't work well in low light and 2) without the flash, the exposure
is long and the lighted areas are fuzzy due to overexposure. I can put
my crummy pictures on my website if anyone is interested.
I've also played with LED backlighting, and it is much brighter - you'd definitely want to have them on a dimmer, but would be much more visible in medium light conditions. I don't think the EL tape would need a dimmer. I made a small row of high-flux LEDs - a home made version of the 3 LED Bars found at http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Leds.htm (I made mine before I discovered these) and they work great as a backlight. I also have crummy pictures of these.
Mounting is the design challenge in my opinion. You could sandwich the EL tape
between the engraved panel and the IP, but I don't like the added thickness, so
I'd want it behind the panel. I plan on having the engraved plastic panels as
an overlay in front of the IP and have cutouts in the IP behind the lettering.
Mounting the EL tape (which is adhesive backed) is easiest: it would be mounted
on a strip of aluminum and held against the back of the IP with clips or
screws. The LED bars would need to be mounted back away from the panel by about
an inch on some sort of bracket.
I'm a long way from implementation, so I'll be looking for some good ideas from
you guys when the time comes :-)
Dennis Glaeser
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chuck Jensen cjensen@dts9000.com
Troy,
Some of this was covered in an earlier thread. A couple of posters who ordered
'stuff' from this company said it should be call El Cheapo Wire instead. It
may be okay, but those purchasers were less than satisfied. YRMV.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com?subjectRE:%20Interior%20lightingreplyto200503081454.j28EskA13268@matronics.comowner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Troy
Maynor
Subject: Re: Interior lighting
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Troy Maynor wingnut54@charter.net
Hi All,
About a week and half ago I was watching a custom car program on cable and
this guy was putting some lighting into a custom car. I occured to me this
product could be used for instrument or interior lighting in my Europa. I
wrote down the product generic name and googled it when I got home. Then low
and behold when I opened the latest copy of Kitplanes there was my idea.
Could someone more familiar with the electrics of this comment. I saw a
similar product at Sun N Fun but it was a lot more costly. The website is
http://www.elwirecheap.com/ . I am not sure if the cold cathode tubes would
be better or the EL wire or tape would be better electrically. The EL tape
would be perfect for the instrument lighting under the glareshield. Just not
sure about the electrical setup and inverter, etc. it mentions. It's cheap
and all kinds of colors available. I also need to be able to vary the
intensity. Will this work? I saw a potentiometer setup at one point on the
site then lost my way and could not find it again. Comments anyone in the
know?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
Message 12
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| Subject: | 21st century power systems. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
Any advance word on what this engine is going to cost?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Messinger
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 21st century power systems.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger"
<paulm@olypen.com>
>I have accepted a contract to design an electrical system for a new
>experimental aircraft engine. A 21st century engine needs a 21st
century
>electrical system.
>The engine and matching propeller has been developed over a period of
more
>than 10 years and has been extensively tested. It's a truly 21st
century
>engine that deserves a 21st century electrical system.
>The engine is essentially the same size and weight and is a drop in
>replacement for an O-360 rated at 180 hp. It is 220 hp however and
includes
>a very efficient muffler for sound reduction. The fuel flow is at least
20%
>lower than the O-360 in normal cruise power % settings.
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
I am looking for a source and part number for connectors that are used
in the Radio Controlled aircraft. The type used on Futaba and JR radio
systems to connect servos to the receiver.
I am thinking of using these to connect the RC Allen trim servos in the
elevator and aileron of my RV-6.
I know I've seen these in Digikeys catalog, but I am not sure which one
I need.
Thanks
John L. Danielson
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
John:
Go to www.towerhobbies.com
On the left of the opening page you will find a link listed as RC parts
Superstore. Click there an then go the the Browse Catagories at the top of
the page and select Radio Accy.
Scroll down and you will come to Radio Servo Plugs/Wires/Cables. Should
find what you are looking for there.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Filtered Airbox
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Connectors
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Danielson"
> <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
> I am looking for a source and part number for connectors that are used
> in the Radio Controlled aircraft. The type used on Futaba and JR radio
> systems to connect servos to the receiver.
> I am thinking of using these to connect the RC Allen trim servos in the
> elevator and aileron of my RV-6.
> I know I've seen these in Digikeys catalog, but I am not sure which one
> I need.
> Thanks
>
> John L. Danielson
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello John
I am pretty sure http://www.batteriesamerica.com/ these guys sell them. If not
try hobby lobby and tower hobby.
That is what i used for roll control on my Europa servo. I think I purchased
them from Batteriesamerica at a show somewhere and they are gold plated. It
could have been SR Batteries. In addition I purchased some model electric high
amperage silicon covered wire with a gazillion strands and put that inside a
thin hydraulic line for taking on movement. also since you are looking, look
into sermos or anderson power pole connectors as used on models. they are my
favorite modeling connector. they are modular and can easily be assembled so
there is a Key. i plan on using them for wing attachments and other in panel.
www.mcamaster.com in addition to the above sells these excellent modular
connectors. For just a bit of extra work, i would derate a high amp connector
by 2/3rds, and then install 2 smaller connectors rather than 1 larger connector.
in other words, make sure that if 1 of the 2 connectors fail, that the other
connector will not take more than 2/3 of rating.
When using them at rated amperage, for the most part they work OK, but once in
a
while i see a high resistance connection that arced and created a lot of heat.
you can usual see a slight dirty contact area, or silver coat is hurt or tension
is not quite enough or alignment not absolute perfect. They are far superior to
molex connectors in high amp applications. One guy at airport installed a set on
his 172 for landing light connector in cowl. Works great. The molex connectors
he was using were always melting (high resistance).
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
First check your local hobby store if there is one in your area and then
check Tower Hobbies on the internet.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Connectors
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Danielson"
> <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
> I am looking for a source and part number for connectors that are used
> in the Radio Controlled aircraft. The type used on Futaba and JR radio
> systems to connect servos to the receiver.
> I am thinking of using these to connect the RC Allen trim servos in the
> elevator and aileron of my RV-6.
> I know I've seen these in Digikeys catalog, but I am not sure which one
> I need.
> Thanks
>
> John L. Danielson
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: alternator as load |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >Sorry Bob, should have looked in the book first - Chapter 3, alternator,
> >3 phases, 6 diodes...
>
> No problem . . . and the illustration in chapter 3 may not
> be all inclusive . . .
>
> There are many automotive products these days that do not go
> to zero current draw when off. My wife's Saturn has about 50
> milliamperes of constant drain on the battery with the car parked.
> Don't know where all this current is going but for a car that is
> used regularly, it's transparent to the owner. I don't know if
> modern alternators might have some need for a small amount of
> current to keep some feature active . . . trying to second
> guess a creative engineer 10,000 miles away while sitting here
> at a keyboard is not real risky but it's not a sure bet either.
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
That current draw is going to the "keep alive" memory in the car radio (station
presets) and various computer memory circuits (self tuning for the engine computer.
Memory for advanced power seats, remembers seat and mirror settings for
2 drivers. This goes on and on. The new Lexus have no fewer than 42 computers
in them.
Charlie Kuss
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
Here's a list of prefabricated pigtails:
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-3.html
You can also look at Molex SL and/or Mini-Fit connectors from Digikey or
Mouser.
HTH,
D
------------
John Danielson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
> I am looking for a source and part number for connectors that are used
> in the Radio Controlled aircraft. The type used on Futaba and JR radio
> systems to connect servos to the receiver.
> I am thinking of using these to connect the RC Allen trim servos in the
> elevator and aileron of my RV-6.
> I know I've seen these in Digikeys catalog, but I am not sure which one
> I need.
> Thanks
>
> John L. Danielson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: 21st century power systems. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
I am designing the electronics. Pricing is not my area.
When the new electronics are mated and tested to the current engine it will
be announced and you all can decide if its worth it. I would not be evolved
if costs were not going to be competitive.
And competative ignoring the increased value and reliability etc.
Far too many advertise a price before the production costs are known.
I expect it will be announced this summer as a new experimental aircraft
engine package that is available for delivery and fully flight tested on a
couple of different aircraft designs for example. RV for sure and at least
one other popular design.
The major electrical components will also be available individually as well
as the design disclosure for those who want to do it themselves and or have
unique needs.
My own aircraft is too small for the engine but I will be using it for some
testing also as well as replacing older discrete electromenical parts like
relays etc.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: 21st century power systems.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Swartout"
> <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
>
> Any advance word on what this engine is going to cost?
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Dennis -
We have looked very seriously for some time at the EL product and glow
wire for backlighting our panel; especially the switch panels on the
bottom of the panel.
If you want to see some solid info on the product, go to:
http://www.luminousfilm.com/
Our thinking and conclusions are pretty much like yours.
They have some very good technical papers on fabrication and installation.
I have had several email exchanges with their tech and marketing folks. It
is a winner, IMHO, for a panel flood system when installed on the glare
shield. When it comes to backlighting reverse-engraved lettering on panel
overlays, it gets difficult. Intensity is a problem; which leads to making
a lamp that is the same size as the overlay itself. Because this would
involve cutting holes where the switches and other devices come thru the
panel and the overlay, you get a serious technical problem.
For the time being, we plan to go with a fairly large EL lamp under the
glareshield and illuminate the whole panel with it. We'll continue to look
for back lighting of the switch panels. LED's are surely brighter, but
harder to wire and get even lighting to show the lettering.
We'd sure like to hear solutions from others. Cars seem to have exactly
what we need, but who does it for us OBAM folks.
Cheers,
John
>
> The quality of the stuff is marginal, but OK (just doesn't look robust).
> The inverters and tapes come with small connectors. The EL wires you
> have
> to terminate yourself - the instructions on their website explain how to
> do
> that. The small 'outer' wires on the EL wire are really small - hair
> thin
> actually, but are fairly strong. They are 'springy' so if you twist them
> together they don't stay, so it takes a bit of playing to get a neat
> connection.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
This is exactly the solution I used on my RV6. I have a 1.5" x 36" length
of the high quality EL tape, hooked to a dimmer. It is the best panel
lighting I've seen, bar none. It looks the same as them military and 747's
when lit, and emits a cool blue/green light on my panel, lighting the whole
thing. It draws very little current, and does a great job.
Contrary to beliefs, you can buy the stuff already terminated with nice
quality wires (not the cheap computer or car stuff you see on ebay - called
"glo wire" or something similar), and I used the good quality tape. If
there is enough interest, I'll order a bunch of it and offer it on my
website along with everything else. I think the cost is somewhere around
$75-80.00 for the tape, wiring, & inverter. The stuff I used and have
researched is wide, thin and already terminated with 20 AWG wires. I can
get a kit together with the inverter, and I think the pricing would be the
same as above.
If there is interest, contact me off list and I'll get some going.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Schroeder
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Interior lighting
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
<jschroeder@perigee.net>
Dennis -
We have looked very seriously for some time at the EL product and glow
wire for backlighting our panel; especially the switch panels on the
bottom of the panel.
If you want to see some solid info on the product, go to:
http://www.luminousfilm.com/
Our thinking and conclusions are pretty much like yours.
They have some very good technical papers on fabrication and installation.
I have had several email exchanges with their tech and marketing folks. It
is a winner, IMHO, for a panel flood system when installed on the glare
shield. When it comes to backlighting reverse-engraved lettering on panel
overlays, it gets difficult. Intensity is a problem; which leads to making
a lamp that is the same size as the overlay itself. Because this would
involve cutting holes where the switches and other devices come thru the
panel and the overlay, you get a serious technical problem.
For the time being, we plan to go with a fairly large EL lamp under the
glareshield and illuminate the whole panel with it. We'll continue to look
for back lighting of the switch panels. LED's are surely brighter, but
harder to wire and get even lighting to show the lettering.
We'd sure like to hear solutions from others. Cars seem to have exactly
what we need, but who does it for us OBAM folks.
Cheers,
John
>
> The quality of the stuff is marginal, but OK (just doesn't look robust).
> The inverters and tapes come with small connectors. The EL wires you
> have
> to terminate yourself - the instructions on their website explain how to
> do
> that. The small 'outer' wires on the EL wire are really small - hair
> thin
> actually, but are fairly strong. They are 'springy' so if you twist them
> together they don't stay, so it takes a bit of playing to get a neat
> connection.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ign |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
I thought about the proposed solution below until more hours are flown on
e-mag/p-mag, but how about running LSE on one side and p-mag on the
other....anybody see any significant downsides to that solution?
Chris Hand
RV-6A, ready for engine & electrical.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ign
.
If you have any concerns, run one
> e-mag/p-mag and a tractor mag for awhile.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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