Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:58 AM - finishing up FWF (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
2. 04:30 AM - Re: Electronic Ign (Harley)
3. 04:52 AM - Re: Interior lighting (Jim Butcher)
4. 06:26 AM - Re: finishing up FWF (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:56 AM - Re: finishing up FWF (Craig P. Steffen)
6. 07:05 AM - off-topic - leather seat covers (rd2@evenlink.com)
7. 07:31 AM - Re: finishing up FWF (sarg314)
8. 07:40 AM - Re: off-topic - leather seat covers (George Neal E Capt AU/CCP)
9. 07:55 AM - Re: finishing up FWF (Dan Checkoway)
10. 08:23 AM - Re: off-topic - leather seat covers (WRBYARS@aol.com)
11. 08:48 AM - Re: off-topic - leather seat covers (George Neal E Capt AU/CCP)
12. 10:25 AM - Re: off-topic - leather seat covers (cgalley)
13. 11:43 AM - MicroSwich 4TL1-10 (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
14. 11:59 AM - "Harley" regulator/rectifier for a Rotax 914?? (D Wysong)
15. 12:28 PM - Re: off-topic - leather seat covers (rd2@evenlink.com)
16. 02:07 PM - amp crimping tool (Mark Hall)
17. 02:47 PM - KA 134 Audio panel to Monroy ATD-300 Attach (R. Craig Chipley)
18. 03:04 PM - Re: Fw: Re: Interior lighting (John Schroeder)
19. 03:45 PM - Re: finishing up FWF (Jim Stone)
20. 05:37 PM - Re: KA 134 Audio panel to Monroy ATD-300 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 05:39 PM - Re: Mike and headset jack location (William Raymond Maxwell)
22. 05:40 PM - Re: MicroSwich 4TL1-10 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 05:51 PM - Re: finishing up FWF (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 05:57 PM - Re: finishing up FWF (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 06:01 PM - Re: amp crimping tool (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
26. 07:02 PM - EGT/CHT Probe Extensions (Letempt, Jeffrey CW4)
27. 07:09 PM - Re: KA 134 Audio panel to Monroy ATD-300 Attach (rv-9a-online)
28. 07:10 PM - Re: EGT/CHT Probe Extensions (AI Nut)
Message 1
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| Subject: | finishing up FWF |
0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.00 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I am done with the FWF except final securing wiring and my question seems half
engine half electrical.
The large starter wire runs from the firewall mounted starter relay seems to naturally
want to get secured to the oil return tubing from cylinder # 2 . There's
no additional stress put on the wire to be where it is just under the tubing
so Adel clamping it to the oil return line seems low risk but is it a bad idea
anyway? I am thinking that overtime this might lead to a failure of the tubing
in some and I just don't want to unnecessarily risk an oil failure. But
I also see that if I don't find a way to support the wire near the starter there
is a lot of force and additional movement of the wire and stress put on the
starter wire terminal.
Also, halfway between the firewall and the starter that same wire runs parallel
with the large fuel tubing from the fuel pump to the fuel injector servo. Is
it OK to nylon tie-wrap them together? I have some gasket material wrapped around
them for chafing protection and then a couple of tie-wraps wrapped around
both. However, p11-44 seems to suggest to always keep at least 2 inch separation
from fluid lines so should I scrap that? The next most convenient place
to secure that wire under the cylinders is again to the oil return lines as they
enter into the sump.
If I wasn't using Van's premade wiring so I had more length to play with I could
reroute the whole thing closer to the crankcase and probably use some bolts
there for clamps.
Thanks,
Lucky
I am done with the FWF except final securing wiring and my question seems half
engine half electrical.
The large starter wire runs from the firewall mounted starter relay seems to naturally
want to getsecuredto the oil returntubing from cylinder # 2 . There's
no additional stress put on the wire to be where it is just under the tubingso
Adel clamping it to the oil return line seems low risk but is it a bad idea anyway?
I am thinking that overtime this might lead to a failure of the tubing
in some and I just don't want to unnecessarily risk an oil failure. But I also
see that if I don't find a way to support the wire near the starter there is
a lot of force and additional movement of the wire and stress put on the starter
wire terminal.
Also, halfway between the firewall and the starter that same wire runs parallel
with the large fuel tubing from the fuel pump to the fuel injector servo. Is
it OK to nylon tie-wrap them together? I have some gasket material wrapped around
them for chafing protection and then a couple of tie-wraps wrapped around
both. However, p11-44 seems to suggest to always keep at least 2 inch separation
from fluid lines so should I scrap that?The next most convenient place to secure
that wire under the cylindersis again to the oil return lines as they enter
into the sump.
If I wasn't using Van's premade wiring so I had more length to play with I could
reroute the whole thing closer to the crankcase and probably use some bolts
there for clamps.
Thanks,
Lucky
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ign |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
Morning, Chris...
>>see any significant downsides to that solution<<
Someone else will probably present any electrical reasons to do it or
not, but the reason I chose ALL e-mag/p-mag is for the simplicity.
You get an electronic ignition, but no more parts than with the old
magnetosaurus.
With the LSE, you have to find a place to mount an additional large box
(most of those I've seen were mounted behind the passenger head
rest...Long Ezs...which may not be a problem with your tractor engine),
run wires to the battery, switches and the engine. The e-mag/p-mags
simply mount in the old magneto holes. Can even use the existing magneto
p-leads.
With E-mag/p-mag (someone else mentioned that they were using one of
each...I am as well) Everything is in that one package.
The old KISS principle, I guess! <G>
Harley Dixon
Long-EZ N28EZ
Chris & Kellie Hand wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
>
>I thought about the proposed solution below until more hours are flown on
>e-mag/p-mag, but how about running LSE on one side and p-mag on the
>other....anybody see any significant downsides to that solution?
>
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A, ready for engine & electrical.....
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ign
>.
>If you have any concerns, run one
>
>
>> e-mag/p-mag and a tractor mag for awhile.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
I formerly owned and operated a specialized shop that refurbished EL panels
as found in most corporate jets. Those panels were constructed with a
plexiglass base, then the EL lamp material (which is like a capacitor - a
top and bottom electrode - actually a conductive film with the luminenscent
material sandwiched between) and finally on top another thin (.030)
plexiglass. All this is sandwiched together and laminated together. For
finishing, the top plexiglass is painted or screen printed white - the
thickness of the white determines the brightness. On top of the white is
the final panel color, usually gray - if the final color is not dense, a
black light blocking coat is applied. We reverse screen printed the gray -
others spray it and then engrave thru it but not thru the white coat. It's
easy to refinish these panels but somewhat difficult to fabricate from
scratch - the problem being the lamination step. EL lamps are very
suspectable to moisture between the electrodes which will cause the lamp to
fail.
Jim Butcher
Europa N241BW
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: finishing up FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:56 AM 3/9/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
>I am done with the FWF except final securing wiring and my question seems
>half engine half electrical.
>The large starter wire runs from the firewall mounted starter relay seems
>to naturally want to get secured to the oil return tubing from cylinder #
>2 . There's no additional stress put on the wire to be where it is just
>under the tubing so Adel clamping it to the oil return line seems low risk
>but is it a bad idea anyway? I am thinking that overtime this might lead
>to a failure of the tubing in some and I just don't want to unnecessarily
>risk an oil failure. But I also see that if I don't find a way to support
>the wire near the starter there is a lot of force and additional movement
>of the wire and stress put on the starter wire terminal.
>Also, halfway between the firewall and the starter that same wire runs
>parallel with the large fuel tubing from the fuel pump to the fuel
>injector servo. Is it OK to nylon tie-wrap them together? I have some
>gasket material wrapped around them for chafing protection and then a
>couple of tie-wraps wrapped around both. However, p11-44 seems to suggest
>to always keep at least 2 inch separation from fluid lines so should I
>scrap that? The next most convenient place to secure that wire under the
>cylinders is again to the oil return lines as they enter into the sump.
>
>If I wasn't using Van's premade wiring so I had more length to play with I
>could reroute the whole thing closer to the crankcase and probably use
>some bolts there for clamps.
>Thanks,
If it were my airplane, I'd replace the problem runs of wire
with new pieces of welding cable (you can easily solder terminals
on). Make them long enough to do an artful job of routing and
supporting the wires. The welding cable is robust, user
friendly and unlike the stiffer 22759, is quite flexible
thus reducing stresses induced on terminal flags (weakest
mechanical link in fat wires) and imparts negligible stress
on other items where they are tied together for mutual support.
Welding cable is ALWAYS recommended for battery jumpers [battery(+)
to contactor and battery(-) to ground] for the same reason.
The most vulnerable feature of the smaller SVLA batteries are
lead terminal posts. Soft 4AWG jumpers from battery to the electrical
system will greatly reduce risk of battery post failure.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: finishing up FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Craig P. Steffen" <craig@craigsteffen.net>
> If it were my airplane, I'd replace the problem runs of wire
> with new pieces of welding cable (you can easily solder terminals
> on).
Using welding cable for starter cable: I assume this is one of those
things that you can do in an experimental that's forbidden in
certified aircraft?
--
craig@craigsteffen.net
public key available at http://www.craigsteffen.net/GPG/
current goal: use a CueCat scanner to inventory my books
career goal: be the first Vorlon Time Lord
Message 6
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| Subject: | off-topic - leather seat covers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Hi all,
Sorry for the off-topic question. This list has offered so much knowledge,
that one (I) tends to resort to it for any question.
Does anyone know a good source for mail order cessna 172 leather seat
covers, color selection, reasonably priced, with FAA fire approval?
Thanks
Rumen
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: finishing up FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> Welding cable is ALWAYS recommended for battery jumpers [battery(+)
> to contactor and battery(-) to ground] for the same reason.
> The most vulnerable feature of the smaller SVLA batteries are
> lead terminal posts. Soft 4AWG jumpers from battery to the electrical
> system will greatly reduce risk of battery post failure.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Bob:
The 22759 is indeed much stiffer than the welding cable, but it also
will hold a bend. The welding cable is flexible but remains forever
springy. It seems to me to be easier to get the 22759 to stay where I
want it to. You have to bend it to the desired shape *before* you
solder the lugs on. The lugs tend anchor the small wire bundles
together so they can't slide over each other as they need to when you
bend it. This is true for the short (~1 ft) pieces, anyway. I found it
easy to make a battery-to -contactor cable this way which seems not to
put any stress on the battery terminal because it retains its shape.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A, engine.
Message 8
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| Subject: | off-topic - leather seat covers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/CCP <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
If you have the old covers, send them to Abby Erdman
http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/contact.htm
.
73... Neal
Do Not Archive
>
Hi all,
Does anyone know a good source for mail order cessna 172 leather seat
covers, color selection, reasonably priced, with FAA fire approval?
Thanks
Rumen
<
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: finishing up FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> friendly and unlike the stiffer 22759, is quite flexible
> thus reducing stresses induced on terminal flags (weakest
> mechanical link in fat wires) and imparts negligible stress
Bob, you hit the nail on the head. I had a starter wire ring terminal break
recently. Here's what I sent to Lucky on the Lycoming list a few minutes
ago. I hadn't thought about using welding cable, but I think the same
principles (of strain relief) apply either way...my response is more about
physical installation than electrical, but here goes...
Lucky,
You might want to take a look at the photos in the middle of this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20050122.html
...and of the "solution" on this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20050130.html
...and of the same engine ground wire solution on this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20050131.html
I had my 2 AWG starter wire break on me a month or so ago. I had clamped it
in only one spot, and the flex in the wire induced by engine shudder on
startup/shutdown was enough to stress the end ring terminals. One ring
terminal snapped, as you can see in the first photos.
I have now clamped both the starter and ground wires in two places each --
near the ends. I have isolated all movement to the stretch of wire
*between* the clamps, thus removing any flex/strain from the ring terminals.
I think this is critical, personally. 20:20 hindsight.
As far as where to clamp the starter wire, I recommend clamping it to the
engine mount at the contactor end, and to an intake tube at the starter end.
Just my 2 cents.
In any case, just make sure that no stain will be induced at the ring
terminal ends...otherwise, expect the ring terminal(s) to break at some
point. Losing the starter isn't the end of the world, but if this happens
to your engine ground wire, and the engine is able to ground itself through
higher resistance items, it could ruin your day.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: off-topic - leather seat covers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WRBYARS@aol.com
Hi Neal,
I just tried the web page for the seat covers and it doesn't work, could
there be an error?
Cheers
Bill
Message 11
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| Subject: | off-topic - leather seat covers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/CCP <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Bill -
I'll try again. http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/contact.htm
Given all the wickets, hoops and trash that my email goes thru after I click
"Send", I'd believe almost anything. A Google for "Flightline Interiors"
usually lists Abby in the first two or three hits.
Do Not Archive
>
Hi Neal,
I just tried the web page for the seat covers and it doesn't work, could
there be an error?
Cheers
Bill
<
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: off-topic - leather seat covers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I think leather automatically meets FAA Fire regs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/CCP" <Neal.George@maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: off-topic - leather seat covers
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/CCP
> <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
> If you have the old covers, send them to Abby Erdman
> http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/contact.htm
> .
>
> 73... Neal
>
> Do Not Archive
>>
> Hi all,
> Does anyone know a good source for mail order cessna 172 leather seat
> covers, color selection, reasonably priced, with FAA fire approval?
> Thanks
> Rumen
> <
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | MicroSwich 4TL1-10 |
0.50 MIME_BASE64_LATIN RAW: Latin alphabet text using base64 encoding
1.01 MIME_BASE64_TEXT RAW: Message text disguised using base64 encoding
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Bob,
I'm looking for a source for the Microswitch 4TL1-10 switch you call out
in your Single Switch, two power source Wing-Wag lighting schematic. I've
looked in several
web sights to no avail. Any suggestions?
Fred Stucklen
Message 14
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| Subject: | "Harley" regulator/rectifier for a Rotax 914?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
Hi Bob -
A while back someone mentioned using a motorcycle PM voltage
regulator/rectifier (e.g. - COMPU-FIRE from www.customchrome.com) as a
replacement for the stock Ducati unit that's shipped with the Rotax 914.
Did you reach a verdict? Thanks in advance for the educated insight!
D
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: off-topic - leather seat covers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Thanks George. I just gave Abby a call, very nice lady. Unfortunately we
couldn't do business because she needs the plane (she is in WI and I am in
PA). She referred me to Airtex (they are nearby), but I am not aware that
they do leather - will check that out now.
cgalley (sorry, couldn't find no name), thanks for the input, if so, this
would be very nice, I'll verify it with local FSDO.
Rumen
do not archive
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from cgalley; Date: 12:24 PM 03/09/05 -0600)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I think leather automatically meets FAA Fire regs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/CCP" <Neal.George@maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: off-topic - leather seat covers
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/CCP
> <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
> If you have the old covers, send them to Abby Erdman
> http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/contact.htm
> .
>
> 73... Neal
>
> Do Not Archive
>>
> Hi all,
> Does anyone know a good source for mail order cessna 172 leather seat
> covers, color selection, reasonably priced, with FAA fire approval?
Message 16
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| Subject: | amp crimping tool |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Hall" <mhall67@carolina.rr.com>
does anyone out there know what tool I would need to crimp an AMP part # 61070-1
it's a flag faston non-insulated terminal?
Message 17
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| Subject: | KA 134 Audio panel to Monroy ATD-300 Attach |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81@yahoo.com>
Hello,
I need a little help. I am hardwiring in my Monroy
ATD-300 Traffic alerter to my panel and have a
question. First all the spare inputs on the audio
panel are 500 Ohm and the output of the ATD-300 is 300
Ohm. Does this need a resistor?
Thanks, Craig
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Interior lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Frank -
Do you have more details on the circuitry for this? For example, does it
require the bias resistors for the LED's?
Thanks,
John
For those willing to roll-your-own, I recently saw a cunning design for
a 10-LED variable brightness light... an LM3914 IC is intended to drive
up to 10 LEDs as a bar graph, depending on voltage at the input. Put 10
whites LEDs on it, and a variable resistor at the input, and voila! A
lamp with 10 levels of brightness.
Frank
--
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: finishing up FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Great post Dan,
I'm redoing mine per your lesson.
Jim Stone
HRII
Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: finishing up FWF
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> friendly and unlike the stiffer 22759, is quite flexible
>> thus reducing stresses induced on terminal flags (weakest
>> mechanical link in fat wires) and imparts negligible stress
>
> Bob, you hit the nail on the head. I had a starter wire ring terminal
> break
> recently. Here's what I sent to Lucky on the Lycoming list a few minutes
> ago. I hadn't thought about using welding cable, but I think the same
> principles (of strain relief) apply either way...my response is more about
> physical installation than electrical, but here goes...
>
> Lucky,
>
> You might want to take a look at the photos in the middle of this page:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20050122.html
>
> ...and of the "solution" on this page:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20050130.html
>
> ...and of the same engine ground wire solution on this page:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20050131.html
>
> I had my 2 AWG starter wire break on me a month or so ago. I had clamped
> it
> in only one spot, and the flex in the wire induced by engine shudder on
> startup/shutdown was enough to stress the end ring terminals. One ring
> terminal snapped, as you can see in the first photos.
>
> I have now clamped both the starter and ground wires in two places each --
> near the ends. I have isolated all movement to the stretch of wire
> *between* the clamps, thus removing any flex/strain from the ring
> terminals.
> I think this is critical, personally. 20:20 hindsight.
>
> As far as where to clamp the starter wire, I recommend clamping it to the
> engine mount at the contactor end, and to an intake tube at the starter
> end.
> Just my 2 cents.
>
> In any case, just make sure that no stain will be induced at the ring
> terminal ends...otherwise, expect the ring terminal(s) to break at some
> point. Losing the starter isn't the end of the world, but if this happens
> to your engine ground wire, and the engine is able to ground itself
> through
> higher resistance items, it could ruin your day.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: KA 134 Audio panel to Monroy ATD-300 |
Attach
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Attach
At 02:46 PM 3/9/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley"
><mechtech81@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>
>I need a little help. I am hardwiring in my Monroy
>ATD-300 Traffic alerter to my panel and have a
>question. First all the spare inputs on the audio
>panel are 500 Ohm and the output of the ATD-300 is 300
>Ohm. Does this need a resistor?
No, hook 'em right together.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Mike and headset jack location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Raymond Maxwell" <wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
but maybe first check out the material used to construct the jacks
themselves. Non-ferous metals would be ok but I susoect any steel used in
them would deviate your compass?
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Prather <mprather@spro.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Mike and headset jack location
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
>
>Standard headset current is very low. Shouldn't be an issue.
>
>Some newer ANR headsets make use of one of the extra portions
>of the headset plug to provide power for the circuitry. Even
>in that case, the current requirement is very low and shouldn't
>cause any problems for the compass.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Matt-
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil K Clayton
>> <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Although I've deliberately kept my panel mounted compass close to the
>> air-driven instruments to avoid stray fields, a good place to put my
>> drivers side headset and mike jacks is near (~3") the compass.
>>
>> Are the signals in the phones and mike wires sufficient to disturb the
>> compass or are they so small as to not matter that much?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Neil
>>
>>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: MicroSwich 4TL1-10 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:41 PM 3/9/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR"
><Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
>
>Bob,
>
> I'm looking for a source for the Microswitch 4TL1-10 switch you call out
>in your Single Switch, two power source Wing-Wag lighting schematic. I've
>looked in several
>web sights to no avail. Any suggestions?
Allied has one in stock. See:
http://www.alliedelec.com/cart/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=642-0197&SEARCH=4tl1%2D10&ID=&DESC=4TL1%2D10
It says only one in stock and they've gone up about 50%
since I ordered one last. If that price is too steep for
you, you might want to consider one of the alternative
schematics.
Bob . . .
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: finishing up FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:55 AM 3/9/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Craig P. Steffen"
><craig@craigsteffen.net>
>
>
> > If it were my airplane, I'd replace the problem runs of wire
> > with new pieces of welding cable (you can easily solder terminals
> > on).
>
>Using welding cable for starter cable: I assume this is one of those
>things that you can do in an experimental that's forbidden in
>certified aircraft?
Oh . . . probably. Actually, if we did the necessary testing
to prove airworthiness, we could probably get this wire
into a spamcan under our type certification . . . but yes,
when bowing at the altar of AC43-13, this wire would be
frowned upon.
Bob . . .
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: finishing up FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:30 AM 3/9/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> > Welding cable is ALWAYS recommended for battery jumpers [battery(+)
> > to contactor and battery(-) to ground] for the same reason.
> > The most vulnerable feature of the smaller SVLA batteries are
> > lead terminal posts. Soft 4AWG jumpers from battery to the electrical
> > system will greatly reduce risk of battery post failure.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>Bob:
> The 22759 is indeed much stiffer than the welding cable, but it also
>will hold a bend. The welding cable is flexible but remains forever
>springy. It seems to me to be easier to get the 22759 to stay where I
>want it to. You have to bend it to the desired shape *before* you
>solder the lugs on. The lugs tend anchor the small wire bundles
>together so they can't slide over each other as they need to when you
>bend it. This is true for the short (~1 ft) pieces, anyway. I found it
>easy to make a battery-to -contactor cable this way which seems not to
>put any stress on the battery terminal because it retains its shape.
But what are the coupling modes with respect to vibration?
Being able to pre-set the shape may mitigate stresses in terminals
and posts as-installed . . . but the stuff is still pretty
rigid. It's the vibration that kills the hardware.
If you're pleased with the results then so be it. I try
to avoid materials that are process sensitive with respect
to performance. This is why gluing and soldering are reduced
to a minimum on any production line. I cannot offer 2AWG
Tefzel with any degree of certainty that the neophyte builder
will achieve the desired end results . . . but in this case,
2 or even 4AWG welding cable takes all the guesswork out of
making battery posts and terminal flags last under vibration.
Bob . . .
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: amp crimping tool |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:05 PM 3/9/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Hall" <mhall67@carolina.rr.com>
>
>does anyone out there know what tool I would need to crimp an AMP part #
>61070-1 it's a flag faston non-insulated terminal?
This is an open-barrel crimp which may be installed with
B&C's BCT-1 crimp tool.
See http://www.bandc.biz
Bob . . .
Message 26
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| Subject: | EGT/CHT Probe Extensions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Letempt, Jeffrey CW4" <jeffrey.letempt@us.army.mil>
Is it really necessary to spend the money on extension leads for CHT and EGT
probes or is there an DIY alternative?
Thanks,
Jeff
Dragonfly N41GK
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: KA 134 Audio panel to Monroy ATD-300 Attach |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
Craig:
Probably not. Since the audio panel inputs are isolated from each other
(I assume), the only affect will be on the audio level, which can be
adjusted on the ATD-300.
Vern Little (ATD-300 connected directly to the headset bus on an SPA-400).
R. Craig Chipley wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>
>I need a little help. I am hardwiring in my Monroy
>ATD-300 Traffic alerter to my panel and have a
>question. First all the spare inputs on the audio
>panel are 500 Ohm and the output of the ATD-300 is 300
>Ohm. Does this need a resistor?
>
>Thanks, Craig
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT Probe Extensions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: AI Nut <ainut@hiwaay.net>
The leads have to be the same metal(s) structure. Else, you're
introducing even more cold junctions. The leads aren't expensive
fortunately.
Letempt, Jeffrey CW4 wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Letempt, Jeffrey CW4" <jeffrey.letempt@us.army.mil>
>
>Is it really necessary to spend the money on extension leads for CHT and EGT
>probes or is there an DIY alternative?
>
>Thanks,
>Jeff
>Dragonfly N41GK
>
>
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