Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:23 AM - Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out ()
2. 04:06 AM - Re: Radio Noise Redux (William Yamokoski)
3. 05:22 AM - Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins (Ken)
4. 06:19 AM - Re: Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out (BobsV35B@aol.com)
5. 06:27 AM - Re: Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out (BobsV35B@aol.com)
6. 06:37 AM - Re: Radio Noise Redux (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 06:40 AM - Re: Airmaster AC200 manual switch? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 06:50 AM - Re: radio noise redux (colyncase on earthlink)
9. 07:19 AM - Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 07:26 AM - Re: Radio Noise Redux (John Schroeder)
11. 07:47 AM - Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins (Eric M. Jones)
12. 09:10 AM - Save some cable ... maybe (Jerry Grimmonpre)
13. 09:20 AM - Re: Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out (Leo Corbalis)
14. 11:30 AM - Flap root extension (Fergus Kyle)
15. 11:57 AM - Re: Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins (Mickey Coggins)
16. 12:19 PM - AW: Flap root extension (Europa (Alfred Buess))
17. 01:37 PM - Re: Save some cable ... maybe (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 02:01 PM - Re: Flap root extension (Gerry Holland)
19. 02:31 PM - Re: Flap root extension (David Glauser)
20. 05:33 PM - Z-28 (Giffen A Marr)
21. 09:55 PM - Re: Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins (rwtalbot@purephotos.com.au.by.themail.purephotos.com.au.with.HTTP;Tue; (SquirrelMail authenticated user rwtalbot);,)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <psiegel@fuse.net>
I have a 1946 Aeronca Champ just out of restoration. I have the older style portable
Bose noise-cancelling headsets front and back. (The kind Bose no longer
supports other than to take as a trade-in for their new headsets...don't get
me started!) They can be powered by 12v-24v. I power them with a portable 10
x 1.2v 2400 mAh nicad pack.
I also use this portable nicad pack as power for an A-22 Icom handheld radio which
has its own 600 mAh internal nicad pack and a portable Sigtronics 2-person
high noise intercom. The intercom also has an internal 9v "transistor radio"
style back-up battery.
My problem is that after about 10 minutes of flying the noise cancelling feature
in the front (noisiest) seat kicks off. When I cycle the on-off switch it just
comes back on for a few seconds.
I swapped the headsets front and back and the problem persists. I tried different
freshly cycled and fully charged nicad pack and the problem persists. I tried
to power the front headset only with two 9v "transistor radio" batteries
wired in series and the headsets work fine that way?
I wonder why the front seat headset doesn't keep working with my shared 10 cell
nicad pack? Any suggestions? Anybody know how long the old Bose headset will
operate on the two "transistor radio" style batteries?
Please be patient with me as I am new to this list!
Paul Siegel
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Noise Redux |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Yamokoski" <yamokosk@lakemichigancollege.edu>
Thanks OC....at this point all suggestions are most welcome. Even more
importantly, I think I could install these things without making
anything blow up! Thanks again.
Bill Yamokoski
>>> bakerocb@cox.net 05/08/05 12:06 PM >>>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
5/8/2005
Hello William Yamokoski, My sympathies to you with your on going radio
problems which started out with a machine gun noise when transmitting
(see
both previous edited postings below).
Maybe my experience will help. I eventually solved my problem by buying
some
split ferrite beads and installing them in several different arbitrarily
selected places in my comm system -- not very scientific. The noise went
away. I took a "what ever works" attiude and haven't delved any further
into
the cause. Good luck.
OC
6/16/2004
Hello Brian Lloyd, and Other Willing Experts, I have a vexing problem
with
the
VHF comm portion of my Garmin 430 installed in my KIS TR-1 that I'd like
some
help with. Here is the fundamental problem scenario:
1) Start engine, talk to ground control (121.8) using Lightspeed
headset,
pilot's
push to talk button, and pilot's headset jacks. Everything works
normally
so taxi out and make engine run up.
2) Engine run up complete, switch to tower (133.1), try to talk using
same
arrangement
as in 1). The result is a machine gun like sound when I key the
transmitter
-- impossible to transmit coherently. (Rapid intermittent making and
breaking
of ground contact for PTT?). Receiver works OK.....skip...
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - 11/17/03
previously from "William Yamokoski" <yamokosk@lakemichigancollege.edu>
Subject: Radio Noise Redux
Ok folks, here's the story...Been dealing with noise on transmission
from
my MicroAir 760. I have
the following observations: Only occurs on transmission. Occurs no
matter
what headset or jacks (pilot/copilot) combination I use. At low rpm,
sounds
like a machine gun. Add a little rpm , the machine gun gets faster and
maybe a little higher pitched. Keep adding rpm and the gun gets too
fast
to make out individual noises...gets to be a big
blur.....skip........Bill
Yamokoski, N4970Y
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
So will a couple of 18volt transorbs after a 5 or 7.5 amp fuse offer any
real protection to an icom A200 I wonder? I guess I could set up a test
to at least confirm that the fuse pops.
Ken
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>
>What would happen to your avionics if an over voltage occurred? I did not know,
so I called and asked. The over voltage would presumably be caused by a runaway
alternator or regulator malfunction. The avionics I was most interested in
was the:
>
>
>-Dynon D-10 EFIS
>
>-Icom A200 panel mounted COM
>
>-Collins (S-Tec) TDR-950 transponder
>
>
>The question: can it handle an over voltage and what damage could take place?
>
>
>**Dynon EFIS D-10: all-in one EFIS unit that incorporates a color "glass" display
of all flight instruments. Dynon meets the electronics industry standard,
such as DO-160 and can handle input voltage of 10-30V and spikes of 60V for very
short period (20ms?). The main electronics are always protected, but if the
OV is extreme or duration too long, damage could occur to the unit. However the
damage would be limited and repair cost nominal.
>
>
>**Icom A200: digital flip-flop digital Com. They have a statement in the user
manual that it must be off during start for protection of circuits. It also states
power source over 16V will ruin the transceiver. I got thru to customer support.
They were helpful but admitted they had limited technical information,
and he was not one of the bench guy. However he was steadfast that the radio
must be off during start and the max volts was 15.8 volts. He did not see anything
in the circuit schematics that protected the main board from the power source
(aircraft power). Therefore he speculates that any over voltage or spike
would damage the radio? Obviously disappointed, I may check a little deeper.
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 5/9/2005 5:24:25 A.M. Central Standard Time,
psiegel@fuse.net writes:
I wonder why the front seat headset doesn't keep working with my shared 10
cell nicad pack? Any suggestions? Anybody know how long the old Bose headset
will operate on the two "transistor radio" style batteries?
Please be patient with me as I am new to this list!
Paul Siegel
Good Morning Paul,
The symptoms you report are indicative of a voltage loss. I would check the
voltage at the connection to the Bose headsets or within the Bose controller
unit. I had a set of those first generation headsets and they worked great all
the way until they were traded in on the newer light weight Bose Xs.
However, I never did try to use them with a battery pack. Since they will
operate on either fourteen or twenty-eight volts, your eighteen volt battery
pack may be triggering a low voltage kickout by making the set think it should
be getting twenty-eight volts.
I have no idea how multiple voltage units work, but I have had problems with
such devices when the voltages were between fourteen and twenty eight volts.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 5/9/2005 5:24:25 A.M. Central Standard Time,
psiegel@fuse.net writes:
I have a 1946 Aeronca Champ just out of restoration. I have the older style
portable Bose noise-cancelling headsets front and back. (The kind Bose no
longer supports other than to take as a trade-in for their new
headsets...don't get me started!) They can be powered by 12v-24v. I power them
with a
portable 10 x 1.2v 2400 mAh nicad pack.
Good Morning Once Again Paul,
I guess I goofed on when your problem was occurring. I had it in my mind
that you had the problem when hitting the set with eighteen volts. I see it is
the other way around. Twelve volts is awfully low for that set. I believe
you will have better luck if you be sure your battery pack is up closer to
fourteen volts when used with the Bose headsets.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Noise Redux |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:04 AM 5/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Yamokoski"
><yamokosk@lakemichigancollege.edu>
>
>Thanks OC....at this point all suggestions are most welcome. Even more
>importantly, I think I could install these things without making
>anything blow up! Thanks again.
>Bill Yamokoski
Bill, if running the radio on a separate battery made the noise
go away, then a 14v supply filter as suggested earlier is in order.
The noise abatement process can be tedious but the technique
is always the same. Isolate one potential propagation path
and explore its characteristics. All of the ideas/solutions
suggested have merit on some level but the vast majority
of noise issues involve conducted (+14v input), ground loop
(mic/headsets grounded in two or more places) and radiated
(noise comes in through antenna). Until you have eliminated
all of these as potential solutions, exploring all the
long-shots is likely to be fruitless. Each experiment takes
about the same amount of time to conduct so I'd make real
sure that you've covered the big-dogs first.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Airmaster AC200 manual switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:24 PM 5/7/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>Hello Bob
>
>I will be using a Airmaster prop on 914UL Rotax.
>The Airmaster Hub is called a AP332, it houses the electric motor and
>articulation
>mechanism while holding Warp drive Blades. You could use the AP332 like
>this and just have
>an adjustable pitch prop.
>
>Or you can add the AC200, which is a Constant speed black box controller.
>http://www.airmasterpropellers.com/
>Or can try http://www.airmasterpropellers.com/wa.asp?idWebPage=3474
>
>I am pretty certain your Schematic will work with just the AP332, if it
>were plumbed direct
>to the electric motor.
>
>When using the Constant speed black box controller, I downloaded as much
>info as i could,
>but it does not give enough detail as to what the switch does, perhaps it
>controls the
>motor direct somehow, or perhaps it is controlling some sort of circuit in
>the AP332 that
>is not direct to the motor.
I suspect this is the case. The switch currents will be quite
low and no boost relays will be necessary. However, it's possible
that their switching logic has some hidden caveats . . . I'd
recommend you talk to someone at the factory before you begin
any non-standard installation.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | re: radio noise redux |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "colyncase on earthlink" <colyncase@earthlink.net>
I just tuned into this thread so I may be missing some context. But here's one
thing to look into.
About a year ago I bought some brand new champion spark plug wires and started
hearing noise in the headset that did seem to change with the engine rpm.
I'll spare you all the blind alleys we went down. In the end, it turned out to
be that the crimp to the shielding on the spark plug leads, at the mag end,
was not adequately penetrating that cool new red spongy insulation. So I didn't
have the shield grounded. Squeezed it through with the pliers a little and
problem solved.
Colyn Case
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, |
Collins
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
Collins
At 08:21 AM 5/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
>So will a couple of 18volt transorbs after a 5 or 7.5 amp fuse offer any
>real protection to an icom A200 I wonder? I guess I could set up a test
>to at least confirm that the fuse pops.
Keep in mind that an OV even is DYNAMIC. It's modeled by a constant
current source about 20% larger than alternator rating charging your
battery. The rate of voltage rise is not spectacular as long as there's
a good battery in the loop.
The 18V transorb, when asked to sink a 50A source will clamp
at some value well over 20v . . .
Now, if there's a battery on line, then it may be that you can
expect a fuse upstream of a transorb to open with sufficient
speed. I've not seen test data to support this notion so until
I can get onto a test stand and do my own measurements, I can't
recommend the fuse/transorb approach to transient protection.
It's been suggested that observance of operating parameters
suggested by DO-160/M-Std-704 are "dated" or some sort of
capitulation to outmoded technologies . . . but having lived
in this design environment for over 25 years, I can tell you
that it's not a simple task to put Band Aids on products not
designed to live in this world. It would have been much easier
to design transient immunity into the product than to add it
later.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Noise Redux |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
OC -
Where did you get these? I'm wondering if the ones they put on computer
cables would also work? If I remember correctly, they are also split.
Thanks,
John
On Sun, 8 May 2005 12:06:22 -0400, <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
> I eventually solved my problem by buying some split ferrite beads and
> installing them in several > different arbitrarily selected
> places in my comm system -- not very scientific. The noise went
> away.
--
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
...snip
> **Dynon EFIS D-10: all-in one EFIS unit that incorporates a color "glass"
display
> of all flight instruments. Dynon meets the electronics industry standard,
such
> as DO-160 and can handle input voltage of 10-30V and spikes of 60V for
very
> short period (20ms?). The main electronics are always protected, but if
the
> OV is extreme or duration too long, damage could occur to the unit.
However the
> damage would be limited and repair cost nominal.
It is remarkable that a little input protection can limit damage even from
lightning. Typically if a phone-line connected fax machine or modem catches
a lightning strike, you often find only a small amount of damage. Modern
devices often incorporate a gap in the PCB foil traces meant to arc to
ground in the event of a lightning strike.
> However he was steadfast that the radio must
> be off during start and the max volts was 15.8 volts. He did not see
anything
> in the circuit schematics that protected the main board from the power
source
> (aircraft power). Therefore he speculates that any over voltage or spike
would
> damage the radio? Obviously disappointed, I may check a little deeper.
Protecting the radio would cost maybe a buck. You wonder what they were
thinking........!
> **Collins TDR-950: Collins transponder sold to Meggitt/S-Tec back in the
late 90's.
> This design goes back a decade or two, and TDR-950s made by S-Tec are the
> same as units made by Collins. The TDR-950 does not have real over voltage
protection
> and could get fully toasted in a worst-case OV scenario. However it does
> have some sacrificial components that often fail first, such as a
capacitor,
> transistor and series relay, saving the main boards. However if it gets
past
> these first few items, it can extensively damage the transponder. The Gent
I
> talk to is a real technical "bench guy and seen 14V units connected to
28-32volt
> power. He suggest since it draws only 1.2 amps during TX a small 2 amp
fuse
> would protect it, since the unit will draw more amps with higher voltage,
as
> he stated it. Since I only have $300 into my TDR-950 I wont worry about it
too
> much, but may be a 1.5-2 amp fuse might be OK. Therefore if you have a
TDR-950
> turn it off for engine start and shutdown. S-Tec stopped producing them
several years
> ago but still supports them (because Piper makes them). Good value on the
used market.
Another dollar.......man o' man,,,,,,,
...snip...
> ALTERNATORS, INTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS and OV
> I asked two large auto electrical overhaul shops about the ND alternators
and OV
> failures. None seen but the common failure is an OPEN field, ie quite
death
> but no OV.
George, I asked a couple places the same question and got the identical
answer--
They said they used to have OV runaways in the distant past...but nobody has
seem one in many years. Only "no-output" deaths.
...snip...
> (PS check the capability of this IC. Note the application and protections.
This
> chip is not associated with any specific alternator, just interesting.)
>
> http://www.freescale.com/files/analog/doc/data_sheet/MC33099FS.pdf
George, yes I thought so too. It took me 8 months to get some of these from
Digikey and I have some prototype regulators built. Note on the data sheet
that in the even of an OV problem the chip shut off a FET...politely
disconnecting the field lead. No crowbars here.
The helpful East Coast Alternator guy (John Anderika) says that many
internally regulated alternators in demanding applications are converted to
externally regulated devices...just so you can get to the field lead.
Paul Messinger wrote an article for Contact Magazine some years back about a
similar conversion.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"Competition brings out the best in products and the worst in people."
- David Sarnoff
Message 12
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| Subject: | Save some cable ... maybe |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Electric Bob & listers:
This idea is offered-up as a possible way to save 3-4 feet of AWG-2 used for
the starter/alternator power supply for a Lycoming RV.
Strap the starter contactor to the side of the starter.
Connect AWG-2 from the hot side of the battery contactor direct to the input
side of the starter contactor. From the hot side of the starter contactor,
jump over to the alternator B out put with suitable sized AWG.
Connect a copper strap from the output of starter contactor to the input of
the starter solenoid.
Comments ...
Thanks and best regards ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
RV7A building my workshop
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Leo Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
Try adding an additional cell in series with the n-c pack. Freshly charged
n-c cells put out about 1.4 volts. Measure the voltage when it happens. This
is a WAG : the louder noise in the front seat takes more power to cancel and
the headsets were designed to work on 14 volts which is normal in a working
system. 12 volts is not enough. Pre wire your measurements, One test per
flight.
Leo Corbalis
----- Original Message -----
From: <psiegel@fuse.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Old Bose Headsets Cutting Out
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <psiegel@fuse.net>
>
> I have a 1946 Aeronca Champ just out of restoration. I have the older
> style portable Bose noise-cancelling headsets front and back. (The kind
> Bose no longer supports other than to take as a trade-in for their new
> headsets...don't get me started!) They can be powered by 12v-24v. I
> power them with a portable 10 x 1.2v 2400 mAh nicad pack.
>
> I also use this portable nicad pack as power for an A-22 Icom handheld
> radio which has its own 600 mAh internal nicad pack and a portable
> Sigtronics 2-person high noise intercom. The intercom also has an
> internal 9v "transistor radio" style back-up battery.
>
> My problem is that after about 10 minutes of flying the noise cancelling
> feature in the front (noisiest) seat kicks off. When I cycle the on-off
> switch it just comes back on for a few seconds.
>
> I swapped the headsets front and back and the problem persists. I tried
> different freshly cycled and fully charged nicad pack and the problem
> persists. I tried to power the front headset only with two 9v "transistor
> radio" batteries wired in series and the headsets work fine that way?
>
> I wonder why the front seat headset doesn't keep working with my shared 10
> cell nicad pack? Any suggestions? Anybody know how long the old Bose
> headset will operate on the two "transistor radio" style batteries?
>
> Please be patient with me as I am new to this list!
>
> Paul Siegel
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Flap root extension |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Cheers,
This message addresses itself to those who have gone before
[really, about everybody] in the construction - specifically the root
extension of the flaps to match the fuselage sides:
The instructions in my manual actually say to 'fit' the
extension foam forms to the root of the flaps. I took this to mean "cut to
permit the forms to slide into the root closeout to approximate its original
position" as an extension of the foam innards. If this were the case, they
would lose about 3/4" of width but would more accurately match the flap
itself. it would also mean quite a bit more addition of the forms to reach
the fuselage.
If you can warp your mind(s) back to that stage, can you
remember what you did, and why? I know I should tip to Andy or Nev but
presume them to be barely eyeballs above the time demands.
Your comments gleefully accepted.
Ferg
A064
Fuselage and wings out in the back lawn, dodging gulls and dead branches.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>
> Protecting the radio would cost maybe a buck. You wonder what they were
> thinking........!
>
Sounds like another nice product for you, Eric.
The Mini-Icom-Whack-OVP-Junior-Flux-Capacitor would
be a good name for it! :-)
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 16
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| Subject: | Flap root extension |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Europa (Alfred Buess)" <ykibuess@bluewin.ch>
Hi Ferg,
I just finished the filling job of my flap root extensions (and the
flaps themselves). This allows me to make a comment about the quality of
the root extensions of my conventional foam wings and flaps: I had made
foam forms, that plugged into the flap roots and made a smooth extension
of the flaps. This was achieved by sanding the oversized foam forms to
the exact form of the flaps. The layups of bid "thickened" the root area
slightly, but this was easily corrected with the filler. After filling
you cannot see where the main part of the flap ends and where the root
extension begins. Hope this helps a little bit to do that part of the
building job.
Regards,
Alfred
Alfred Buess
Laenggasse 81, CH-3052 Zollikofen, Switzerland
Tel.: +41 (0)31 911 63 32, Fax: +41 (0)31 911 56 32
E-Mail: ykibuess@bluewin.ch
Europa XS #097, Monowheel, Foam shortwing, Rotax 912S, Airmaster 332 CS
-----Ursprngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] Im Auftrag von
Fergus Kyle
Gesendet: Montag, 9. Mai 2005 19:32
An: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Betreff: AeroElectric-List: Flap root extension
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Cheers,
This message addresses itself to those who have gone before
[really, about everybody] in the construction - specifically the root
extension of the flaps to match the fuselage sides:
The instructions in my manual actually say to 'fit' the
extension foam forms to the root of the flaps. I took this to mean "cut
to
permit the forms to slide into the root closeout to approximate its
original
position" as an extension of the foam innards. If this were the case,
they
would lose about 3/4" of width but would more accurately match the flap
itself. it would also mean quite a bit more addition of the forms to
reach
the fuselage.
If you can warp your mind(s) back to that stage, can you
remember what you did, and why? I know I should tip to Andy or Nev but
presume them to be barely eyeballs above the time demands.
Your comments gleefully accepted.
Ferg
A064
Fuselage and wings out in the back lawn, dodging gulls and dead
branches.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Save some cable ... maybe |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:09 AM 5/9/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
>
>Electric Bob & listers:
>This idea is offered-up as a possible way to save 3-4 feet of AWG-2 used for
>the starter/alternator power supply for a Lycoming RV.
>
>Strap the starter contactor to the side of the starter.
>
>Connect AWG-2 from the hot side of the battery contactor direct to the input
>side of the starter contactor. From the hot side of the starter contactor,
>jump over to the alternator B out put with suitable sized AWG.
>
>Connect a copper strap from the output of starter contactor to the input of
>the starter solenoid.
Unless your battery is located in the tail, 4AWG is most
adequate . . . in fact, a number of builders have used 2AWG
only for the long run from battery contactor to starter contactor
and 4AWG for all other segments. If your battery is up front,
then 4AWG is fine throughout the chrarging/cranking path.
The wire is much easier to work with than adding labor to
fabricate a suitable hardware for mounting starter contactor
on the starter.
What you describe will function electrically. If that system
is attractive to you, consider using the built-in starter contactor
that comes with most modern starters. Use the boost relay
circuit shown in Figure Z-22. Then jumper alternator b-lead
to the starter contactor hot terminal using a Maxi-Fuse HHX inline
holder. See page 13 of
of http://www.bussmann.com/shared/library/catalogs/Buss_Auto-Fuse_Cat.pdf
Maxi fuses can be found on page 3. Use MAX60 fuse on 40A alternator,
MAX80 on a 60A alternator. Eliminate alternator loadmeter feature.
The boost relay can mount on firewall. No new hardware bolted
to engine.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Flap root extension |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Wrong list Ferg!
Could still get some useful advice I'm sure!
Regards
Gerry
Do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Flap root extension |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
Uh, Ferg - I think you meant this to go to the Europa list, not 'lectric
Bob's, right?
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fergus Kyle
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Flap root extension
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Cheers,
This message addresses itself to those who have gone before
[really, about everybody] in the construction - specifically the root
extension of the flaps to match the fuselage sides:
The instructions in my manual actually say to 'fit' the
extension foam forms to the root of the flaps. I took this to mean "cut
to permit the forms to slide into the root closeout to approximate its
original position" as an extension of the foam innards. If this were the
case, they would lose about 3/4" of width but would more accurately
match the flap itself. it would also mean quite a bit more addition of
the forms to reach the fuselage.
If you can warp your mind(s) back to that stage, can you
remember what you did, and why? I know I should tip to Andy or Nev but
presume them to be barely eyeballs above the time demands.
Your comments gleefully accepted.
Ferg
A064
Fuselage and wings out in the back lawn, dodging gulls and dead
branches.
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Giffen A Marr" <gamarr@charter.net>
Bob
Am I confused or is there a typo in the Z-28 figure on the right hand side.
The Aux Bat and Main Bat are both shown connected to the right ignition. Is
this right or am I missing something?
Giff Marr
LIVP/20B 35%
Message 21
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|
authenticated user rwtalbot);,
10 May 2005 14:54:31+1000@roxy.matronics.com (EST)
| Subject: | Re: OV damage to avionics: Dynon, Icom, Collins |
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> <emjones@charter.net>
>
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Protecting the radio would cost maybe a buck. You wonder what they were
> thinking........!
Eric,
You mean other than - $ervices revenue, $ervices revenue, $ervices
revenue, $ervices revenue, $$$ $$$ ?
Richard
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