Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Sudden Failure (William Bernard)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: Signal Sourcing for GPS/NAV (Russell Daves)
3. 05:32 AM - Calculating Electrical Load (SMITHBKN@aol.com)
4. 06:09 AM - OT - windshield sealant (rd2@evenlink.com)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: Sudden Failure (Robert McCallum)
6. 08:31 AM - Re: Calculating Electrical Load (rv-9a-online)
7. 08:35 AM - Re: OT - windshield sealant (rv-9a-online)
8. 08:50 AM - Re: Signal Sourcing for GPS/NAV (Bob C.)
9. 08:56 AM - Re: OT - windshield sealant (Rick Girard)
10. 09:23 AM - Re: OT - windshield sealant (rd2@evenlink.com)
11. 11:03 AM - New FAA requirement ()
12. 11:15 AM - Re: OT - windshield sealant (Richard Riley)
13. 12:09 PM - Re: Signal Sourcing for GPS/NAV (John Schroeder)
14. 01:10 PM - Re: OT - windshield sealant (rd2@evenlink.com)
15. 01:30 PM - Re: Calculating Electrical Load (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 04:29 PM - Re: Sudden Failure (Leo Corbalis)
17. 05:46 PM - Dr. Dee's Milestone reached!! (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 06:24 PM - Re: Dr. Dee's Milestone reached!! (Richard Dudley)
19. 06:49 PM - cheap Harbor Freight multimeters (Rico Voss)
20. 07:16 PM - Re: Dr. Dee's Milestone reached!! (Earl_Schroeder)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
Hi all: I had an interesting situation yesterday afternoon, fortunately on the
ground.
I had completed a flight to another airport and when I went to start the aircraft
for the return tirp, there was no electricity. The trip over had been about
an hour earlier and no, I didn't leave the master switch on.
The aircraft is wired using Bob's ideas with both a main and emergency buss. The
single electronic ignition is wired directly from a battery buss. Nothing worked
although the master contactor would click sometimes. It sounds like a classic
dead battery, but the battery is only 2 1/2 - 3 years old and is an RG type.
There has been no obvious signs of impending failure.
I plan to replace the battery, but I wondered if anyone had any thoughts as to
what the problem might be and how to prevent a recurrence.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Signal Sourcing for GPS/NAV |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
A BMA G3 is the new glass flight directer from Blue Mountain Aviation. A Grand
Rapids System is better in my opinion.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Calculating Electrical Load |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SMITHBKN@aol.com
I've just getting started on the electrical system of my RV-7A. I have the
AeroElectric Connection book and I've read it, but being a rookie on things
electrical I'm going to need some help.
I've started calculating loads for the system that I would like to have and
I'm not sure how to handle components that are rated for a voltage different
than the voltage of the system on the plane.
For example, I have a roll servo, built by Superior Electric, that has on the
spec plate the following information:
Stepping Motor Type KML061F02
5.19 VDC
1.05 AMP
I assume my plane's system voltage while operating normally will be "about 14
volts" according to information on page 2-8 of AeroElectric Connection.
So, in order to calculate the amperage required to run the servo motor do I
use the 1.05 amp shown on the spec plate, or do I need to calculate a new
amperage using the 14 volt system voltage that will be supplied to the motor by
my
plane's alternator?
If it is the latter, am I doing the calculation correctly?
Volts = Amps X Resistance
5.19 V = 1.05 amp X (unknown)
5.19 V/1.05 amp = 4.94 ohms
Then, substituting the know resistance back into the same formula I can
calculate a new amperage for the 14 volt situation:
14 V = (unknown amps) X 4.94 ohms
14 V/4.94 ohms = 2.8 amps
So, for my load calculations on my system I would have to use a 2.8 amp value
for the current needed to run the motor. Is this correct?
I suppose the motor could have some sort of internal step-down function that
takes the 14 V system voltage and reduces it to 5.19 V stated on the spec
plate, but I have no idea if this is how things like this work.
I know this is basic stuff, but I really appreciate someone's help.
Jeff
Message 4
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| Subject: | OT - windshield sealant |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Is it safe (for plexiglass and Al) to use GE Silicone II sealant to seal a
winshield from outside?
Thanks
Rumen
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Sudden Failure |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Bill;
If the master contactor clicks "sometimes" it's unlikely the battery.
The battery either has enough voltage to pull in the contactor or it
doesn't. It's not a "sometimes" or random thing. It is more likely a
master switch failure. This can be a sometimes thing, making contact on
one closure but not the next time. While you were flying it was working
but now you've turned it off it is not now reliably closing every time.
Not necessarily the answer but batteries don't work intermittently while
switches sometimes do.
Bob McC
William Bernard wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Hi all: I had an interesting situation yesterday afternoon, fortunately on the
ground.
>
>I had completed a flight to another airport and when I went to start the aircraft
for the return tirp, there was no electricity. The trip over had been about
an hour earlier and no, I didn't leave the master switch on.
>
>The aircraft is wired using Bob's ideas with both a main and emergency buss. The
single electronic ignition is wired directly from a battery buss. Nothing worked
although the master contactor would click sometimes. It sounds like a classic
dead battery, but the battery is only 2 1/2 - 3 years old and is an RG type.
There has been no obvious signs of impending failure.
>
>I plan to replace the battery, but I wondered if anyone had any thoughts as to
what the problem might be and how to prevent a recurrence.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Bill
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Calculating Electrical Load |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
Jeff, a stepping motor is a different animal because it is connected the
autopilot control head which drives it.
In this case, the control head should be putting out 5 volt pulses when
it wants to control the motor.
The design of the control head will be important in total load
calculation... I'd go to it's documentation to determine what average
and peak load it presents, while driving the servo motor.
Short of measurement under operating conditions, there isn't a reliable
way of calculating the power from the motor spec alone, although a worst
case would be 14V x 1.05A when driven through the control head. The
control head would drop the 14V to the 5V used to drive the engine.
Vern Little, RV-9A
SMITHBKN@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SMITHBKN@aol.com
>
>I've just getting started on the electrical system of my RV-7A. I have the
>AeroElectric Connection book and I've read it, but being a rookie on things
>electrical I'm going to need some help.
>
>I've started calculating loads for the system that I would like to have and
>I'm not sure how to handle components that are rated for a voltage different
>than the voltage of the system on the plane.
>
>For example, I have a roll servo, built by Superior Electric, that has on the
>spec plate the following information:
>
>Stepping Motor Type KML061F02
>5.19 VDC
>1.05 AMP
>
>...
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: OT - windshield sealant |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
Rumen, you can't paint over silicone sealant. Consider using a
polyurethane sealant instead. You should paint over it to provide
long-term UV stability (even if they say UV resistant).
If it's non-structural, you can use polyurethane caulking or 3M bedding
compound.
Good luck.
Vern Little
rd2@evenlink.com wrote:
>Is it safe (for plexiglass and Al) to use GE Silicone II sealant to seal a
>winshield from outside?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rumen
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Signal Sourcing for GPS/NAV |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Jim,
There is a discussion board on BlueMountains site
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/talk/ that is pretty active and may be
helpful in answering your questions.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 5/13/05, Jim.Piavis@sybase.com <Jim.Piavis@sybase.com> wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim.Piavis@sybase.com
>
> I'm starting to plan out the panel for my RV-7 and need a little help
> here.
>
> The current plan is dual BM G3s, Garmin 530 and an SL30 for secondary
> backup. Also planning a GI-106A for backup/secondary CDI/GS. One G3 will
> be
> used as ADI and the other eHSI, but both have capability to display
> CDI/GS.
>
> The question is about signal direction to the display units. All three
> units (G3s and 106) have the capability to display input signals from both
> 530 and SL30. I'm pretty much a rookie at this, but what would be the best
> switching arrangement? Initial thought was to direct 530 to the G3 to be
> used for eHSI, and then have the 106 switch between 530 (NAV and GPS) and
> the SL30 NAV signals. This leaves out the G3 used for ADI.
>
> Jim
> -7 Fuse
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: OT - windshield sealant |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick Girard <fly.ez@verizon.net>
Rumen, All the plexi windows in Boeing aircraft are sealed in this way.
Just follow two precautions. One, do not get the RTV silicone on any
surface you plan on painting as the silicone will form a molecular bond
with the aluminum and it CANNOT be removed. It's like trying to paint
over ball bearings. Two, embed a piece of strong thread running from the
middle bottom of the window, around the periphery of the window, and
back to where the it starts. This will save you hours should you need to
remove the window by enabling you to slice the RTV bead when you pull
the thread. Both these facts about silicone sealed window installation
were learned while sitting through hours of "death by view foil"
inspector certification classes.
Rick Girard
Former Boeing inspector certified for silicone and acrylic seal and bond
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: OT - windshield sealant |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
I knew about non-paintability of silicone, but boy, did I get more than I
paid(asked) for.
Thanks a lot, Vern, Rick..
Rumen
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | New FAA requirement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
<<You would think that a public agency has an obligation to craft
regulations
that can understood by the vast majority of the people affected. You would
be wrong of course. Not to impugn the FAA too severely; they write a lot of
regulations and most
are pretty readable. But there are some that are obviously written by
committee; and I suppose, meant to be read by one too. Usually someone on
the committee knows the real poop and so the words are just sort of
scrambled around then thrown into a document when they smell about
right.....skip....>>
5/15/2005
Hello Eric, I concur. Regrettably my experience is that when one writes to
the FAA and offers clarifying words the bureacrats tend to go into a
defensive crouch.
Another example of garbling can be found in AIM paragraph 5-1-12 and 5-1-13
regarding closing or canceling flight plans. To me there is, or should be, a
difference. A flight plan is closed when the aircraft is on the ground
safely or in the immediate vicinity of the termination airport and about to
land. A flight plan can be canceled even before takeoff or while airborne
and while the aircraft is still at risk of never reaching its destination.
The wording in the AIM doesn't seem to recognize the difference.
Nor does the AIM point out that if one cancels an IFR flight plan while
airborne enroute, but desires search and rescue procedures to still be in
effect for the flight, that one must contact an FSS and activate the
remaining portion of the flight plan.
OC
PS: Here is a bit more of an explanation (that the FAA did not provide) as
to why they felt it necessary to add paragraph 61.31(k)(2)(iii)(B) to the
FAR's:
The answer is found in this paragraph from FAA Order 8130.2F regarding
issuing Operating Limitations for amateur built experimental aircraft (which
the FAA apparently considers to override FAR Section 61.31 (d) (1) with
regard to amateur built experimental aircraft):
"153. b. (18) The pilot in command of this aircraft must hold a pilot
certificate or an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in
command also must meet the requirements of 61.31(e), (f), (g), (h), (i),
and (j), as appropriate."
This paragraph from FAA Order 8130.2F, when placed in the Operating
Limitations, would allow a person with any kind of pilot certificate to fly
any category or class of amateur built experimental aircraft (except any
turbojet/turbofan-powered aircraft, any aircraft with a maximum takeoff
weight exceeding 12,500 pounds, and any other aircraft
when deemed necessary (per the note to paragraph 153. b. (17)) as PIC with
passengers.
The new FAR paragraph 61.31(k)(2)(iii)(B) is intended to retroactively
remove that allowance.
If you already have a pilot certificate for airplane (category), single
engine - land
(class), you are good to go with pax in a SEL amateur built experimental
airplane -- no additional certification action is required in order to
comply with 61.31(k)(2)(iii)(B).
In passing I note that this is another instance, there are others, of
confusion generated by the FAA when the FAR's and the FAA's Orders are not
entirely in synch with each other and interpretation is required to sort out
the confusion.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: OT - windshield sealant |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
At 08:49 AM 5/15/05, you wrote:
>Two, embed a piece of strong thread running from the
>middle bottom of the window, around the periphery of the window, and
>back to where the it starts. This will save you hours should you need to
>remove the window by enabling you to slice the RTV bead when you pull
>the thread.
Dental floss is particularly good. But avoid the "glide" teflon based
dental floss in this application - it just pulls straight out, instead of
going sideways and cutting the silicone.
Speaking from sad experience.
Once the thread pulls out if you still need to remove the RTV, soak a rag
in gasoline or diesel. (Other petrochemicals may work, but I haven't tried
them) Place it on the silicone, cover with plastic or aluminum foil to
keep it from drying out. The RTV absorbs the gas, swells and becomes very
weak. After a day or 2, remove it all and the silicone will scrape out
with a fingernail or plastic knife.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Signal Sourcing for GPS/NAV |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Jim -
Doesn't the BMA G3 have GPS already? If so, why would you want to pipe
the 530 data to it?
If you are doing the Garmin 530 you may have to have the cabling
interconnects done by a licensed installer/dealer to get Garmin's
warranty. May I suggest John Stark at Stark Avionics. He has great prices
and we had a very good experience with his doing the cabling between the
boxes and out to the other instruments.
He recommended getting the MD200-306 instead of the GI-106A. The GI can't
do the back coarse ILS, if I recall the comparison he gave me correctly.
Mid Continent builds both the 106 & 200 series and the prices are very
close.
Another point that he made, and it is clear in the SL-30 manuals, is that
the OBS, can't be switched between the SL-30 and any other VOR/ILS box
without recalibrating the SL-30 interface with the OBS every time it is
switched back to the SL-30. We serial-ported the SL-30 to the EFIS/1 and
hardwired the Garmin 480 to the OBS. You have to have an OBS to legally do
a GPS approach with the 530 anyway. If we do an ILS from the Sl-30, it
will be off of the EFIS/1.
Does the G3 have an option for an autopilot like the EFIS/1? If so, it
should be able to do an auto ILS off the SL-30. We installed a TruTrak AP
and have it wired to the 480. This gives us more flexibility when it comes
to the GPS approaches & ILS approaches. You would have to find some
switching arrangement to connect the BMA autopilot to the 530 for GPS &
ILS approaches. John might be able to suggest something and then wire it
for you. It sounds like you are planning for serious IFR flight. In an
RV7, I would seriously consider an autopilot for IFR work.
Hope this helps.
John Schroeder
>> The current plan is dual BM G3s, Garmin 530 and an SL30 for secondary
>> backup. Also planning a GI-106A for backup/secondary CDI/GS. One G3 will
>> be
>> used as ADI and the other eHSI, but both have capability to display
>> CDI/GS.
>>
>> The question is about signal direction to the display units. All three
>> units (G3s and 106) have the capability to display input signals from
>> both
>> 530 and SL30. I'm pretty much a rookie at this, but what would be the
>> best
>> switching arrangement? Initial thought was to direct 530 to the G3 to be
>> used for eHSI, and then have the 106 switch between 530 (NAV and GPS)
>> and
>> the SL30 NAV signals. This leaves out the G3 used for ADI.
>>
>> Jim
>> -7 Fuse
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: OT - windshield sealant |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Further thanks.
Floss or perhaps the nylon thread upholsterers use. (?)
R
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from Richard Riley; Date: 11:11 AM 5/15/2005
-0700)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
At 08:49 AM 5/15/05, you wrote:
>Two, embed a piece of strong thread running from the
>middle bottom of the window, around the periphery of the window, and
>back to where the it starts. This will save you hours should you need to
>remove the window by enabling you to slice the RTV bead when you pull
>the thread.
Dental floss is particularly good. But avoid the "glide" teflon based
dental floss in this application - it just pulls straight out, instead of
going sideways and cutting the silicone.
Speaking from sad experience.
Once the thread pulls out if you still need to remove the RTV, soak a rag
in gasoline or diesel. (Other petrochemicals may work, but I haven't tried
them) Place it on the silicone, cover with plastic or aluminum foil to
keep it from drying out. The RTV absorbs the gas, swells and becomes very
weak. After a day or 2, remove it all and the silicone will scrape out
with a fingernail or plastic knife.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Calculating Electrical Load |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:26 AM 5/15/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SMITHBKN@aol.com
>
>I've just getting started on the electrical system of my RV-7A. I have the
>AeroElectric Connection book and I've read it, but being a rookie on things
>electrical I'm going to need some help.
>
>I've started calculating loads for the system that I would like to have and
>I'm not sure how to handle components that are rated for a voltage different
>than the voltage of the system on the plane.
>
>For example, I have a roll servo, built by Superior Electric, that has on the
>spec plate the following information:
>
>Stepping Motor Type KML061F02
>5.19 VDC
>1.05 AMP
>
>I assume my plane's system voltage while operating normally will be "about 14
>volts" according to information on page 2-8 of AeroElectric Connection.
>
>So, in order to calculate the amperage required to run the servo motor do I
>use the 1.05 amp shown on the spec plate, or do I need to calculate a new
>amperage using the 14 volt system voltage that will be supplied to the
>motor by my
>plane's alternator?
>
>If it is the latter, am I doing the calculation correctly?
>
>Volts = Amps X Resistance
>5.19 V = 1.05 amp X (unknown)
>5.19 V/1.05 amp = 4.94 ohms
>
>Then, substituting the know resistance back into the same formula I can
>calculate a new amperage for the 14 volt situation:
>
>14 V = (unknown amps) X 4.94 ohms
>14 V/4.94 ohms = 2.8 amps
>
>So, for my load calculations on my system I would have to use a 2.8 amp value
>for the current needed to run the motor. Is this correct?
>
>I suppose the motor could have some sort of internal step-down function that
>takes the 14 V system voltage and reduces it to 5.19 V stated on the spec
>plate, but I have no idea if this is how things like this work.
>
>I know this is basic stuff, but I really appreciate someone's help.
>
>Jeff
A stepper motor is a special breed of cat. I've often suggested
that it be visualized as a rotary solenoid having multiple windings.
When the windings are energized in the appropriate sequence, the
output shaft will move in discrete steps (usually 1.8 degrees or
200 steps/revolution - but they come in ALL sizes). Stepper motors,
unlike their brushed and brushless counterparts, draw the same amount
of current whether loaded or unloaded, whether rotating or standing
still UNLESS the controller provides special features to modify this
behavior.
Your 5.19 volt motor will either
(1) be driven at 100% duty cycle by some form of step-down power supply
which is probably a switch-mode device . . . it will draw about
1.2 x the watts of the motor. Since the motor needs about 5.3 watts
to operate, the switchmode supply would power it up with about 6 watts
of 14 volt bus power.
(2) It might be driven in an intermittent duty mode with 14v applied
only while driving but with a limited time. This would be okay for
a trim system then, your calculation would be correct. But is this
an autopilot roll servo? It flies the airplane? The clever
designer my have figured out yet another way to incorporate this
motor into your system and might have some power requirement
that is intermediate to the two extremes cited above.
Superior Electric built the motor but somebody else incorporated
it into the design of your servo. What do the instructions say?
Who did you buy the servo from? They should tell you what values
to plug into a load analysis.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Sudden Failure |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Leo Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
Buy a cheap digital multimeter from Harbor Freight. You can then make
measurements and think. Then fix the broken part. Put a diode (1N4004)
across the coil of all relays, solonoids and contactors. I know the 1N4004
is "overkill" but I replaced plenty of 1N4001 s and never had a recall on 24
volt systems. The master switch is prpbably fried, as a guess. Reading the
voltage drop across the closed switch will tell all (almost). If you screw
up by having the meter on the wrong range, the worst thing you can do is
blow the fuse in the amp circuit. It's easily replaced. Meters with a needle
can wrap the needle 3 times around the high end (slight exageration I only
got 2 turns).
Leo Corbalis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sudden Failure
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
> <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Bill;
>
> If the master contactor clicks "sometimes" it's unlikely the battery.
> The battery either has enough voltage to pull in the contactor or it
> doesn't. It's not a "sometimes" or random thing. It is more likely a
> master switch failure. This can be a sometimes thing, making contact on
> one closure but not the next time. While you were flying it was working
> but now you've turned it off it is not now reliably closing every time.
> Not necessarily the answer but batteries don't work intermittently while
> switches sometimes do.
>
> Bob McC
>
> William Bernard wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard"
>><billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
>>
>>Hi all: I had an interesting situation yesterday afternoon, fortunately on
>>the ground.
>>
>>I had completed a flight to another airport and when I went to start the
>>aircraft for the return tirp, there was no electricity. The trip over had
>>been about an hour earlier and no, I didn't leave the master switch on.
>>
>>The aircraft is wired using Bob's ideas with both a main and emergency
>>buss. The single electronic ignition is wired directly from a battery
>>buss. Nothing worked although the master contactor would click sometimes.
>>It sounds like a classic dead battery, but the battery is only 2 1/2 - 3
>>years old and is an RG type. There has been no obvious signs of impending
>>failure.
>>
>>I plan to replace the battery, but I wondered if anyone had any thoughts
>>as to what the problem might be and how to prevent a recurrence.
>>
>>Thanks in advance
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Dr. Dee's Milestone reached!! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
I've been preoccupied with dozens of relatives and more dozens
of friends for the past several days. We've gathered to observe
Dee's graduation with her PhD in community/clinical psychology.
It's been a long haul . . . about 15 years but she's stayed the
course and walked in Saturday's graduation ceremonies at WSU.
I'll need a couple more days to recover from wall-to-wall
relatives and sundry gatherings
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Dr. Dee's Milestone reached!! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Congratulations to Dr. Dee!!!!
Richard Dudley
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>I've been preoccupied with dozens of relatives and more dozens
>of friends for the past several days. We've gathered to observe
>Dee's graduation with her PhD in community/clinical psychology.
>
>It's been a long haul . . . about 15 years but she's stayed the
>course and walked in Saturday's graduation ceremonies at WSU.
>I'll need a couple more days to recover from wall-to-wall
>relatives and sundry gatherings
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | cheap Harbor Freight multimeters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rico Voss <vozzen@yahoo.com>
> Buy a cheap digital multimeter from Harbor Freight.
My curiosity has overcome me.
I bought one of those famous HarborFreight multimeters,
made in China. I've found, however that voltage readings
are affected significantly by whether the display is
exposed to bright light.
Any comments or explanations welcome (other than "you get
what you pay for")
Richard, Zenith XL
do not archive
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/mobile.html
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Dr. Dee's Milestone reached!! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Earl_Schroeder <Earl_Schroeder@juno.com>
Hi Bob,
Hmmm, maybe Ms Dee could start a psychologyAdvice-list?? All kidding
aside, pass on my congratulations!! Earl
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>I've been preoccupied with dozens of relatives and more dozens
>of friends for the past several days. We've gathered to observe
>Dee's graduation with her PhD in community/clinical psychology.
>
>It's been a long haul . . . about 15 years but she's stayed the
>course and walked in Saturday's graduation ceremonies at WSU.
>I'll need a couple more days to recover from wall-to-wall
>relatives and sundry gatherings
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
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