Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:45 AM - Re: PDA power (Harley)
2. 05:09 AM - TEST (Bob Miller)
3. 06:50 AM - Re: 22 ga too small? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:01 AM - Re: Securing small wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:08 AM - Re: Charging multiple batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:31 AM - Re: Charging multiple batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:11 AM - Automatic x-feed contactor control??? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:49 AM - Re: Charging multiple batteries (John Schroeder)
9. 09:18 AM - Re: Securing small wires (Matt Prather)
10. 11:03 AM - Re: Automatic x-feed contactor control??? (Mike Larkin)
11. 11:20 AM - Re: Securing small wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 01:12 PM - Re: Securing small wires (Vern W.)
13. 01:22 PM - Re: Securing small wires (John Schroeder)
14. 01:33 PM - Re: Calculating Electrical Load (Bryan Hooks)
15. 02:49 PM - Re: PDA power (Mike Larkin)
16. 05:16 PM - Re: Securing small wires (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
17. 07:13 PM - Re: Securing small wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 08:48 PM - Re: Securing small wires (David Burton)
19. 10:11 PM - Re: Securing small wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
John...
ControlVision (Anywhere Map) has an adapter that plugs into the iPaq
that comes with the GPS antenna they supply that runs everything on the
vehicle's power. It just plugs into a cigar lighter in your car or
plane (or a power outlet, common on the newer cars). It also charges
the battery in the unit while it's running it, or while sitting (if the
vehicle power remains on to that plug when the ignition is off).
I use it all the time in my car as well.
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
Canandaigua, NY
John Swartout wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
>
>
>Are any of you using PDA's or Pocket PC's such as Dell Axim or HP iPAQ
>to run GPS moving map navigation programs such as AnywhereMap or
>MountainScope or TeleType, and here is my question:
>
>Are you using batteries to run this device, or feeding it from your
>airplane's electrical system? I haven't seen in the specifications for
>any of these devices how many volts they run on (I don't own one yet),
>nor whether they can run on external power sources. Also, if you are
>using a separate GPS receiver, either Bluetooth or wired, to feed the
>PDA, are you running THAT on batteries, does it receive power from the
>PDA, or are you running it from ship's power?
>
>Bottom line, to save $$$ on batteries and avoid the nuisance of wanting
>to start a trip and not having any charged Ni-cad's on hand, I would
>like to supply these devices--GPS receiver and PDA, from ship's power,
>and would like to know the best way to supply the correct voltage.
>
>I have read numerous posts on the subject of converting DC to DC of a
>different voltage but nothing definitive.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>John
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
do not archive
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 22 ga too small? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>
>I haven't had luck finding the specific thread in the archive that I was
>thinking of - referenced a 2 stroke engine installation with wires leading
>to controls/instrumentation. Had vibration induced failures. I did find
>a different thread that discussed a similar scenario:
>
>http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=15989953?KEYS=crimping_vs._soldering?LISTNAME=AeroElectric?HITNUMBER=5?SERIAL=15200432715?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
>
>Message number: #10218
>
>I guess this goes back to 'good practice' - provide strain relief,
>damping, and support to all structures so that vibrational mode
>frequencies are high above any normal excitation frequency. Then strain
>relief becomes a much less interesting issue.
>
>Thanks for the discussion.
Hmmmm . . . there's that term "good practice" again. Let's consider
the posting cited:
We have had a series of planes having problems with wires breaking because
the solder flowing back into the wire 3/8 to 1/2" and making a solid to
flexible junction a little ways back from the terminal. The wire will break
at this
junction after a while. If it is the wrong wire things get very Quite.
Charles Dunn Flint Hills Technical School
3/8 to 1/2" . . . sheesh! perhaps he should try to get the whole
roll of solder flowed into those joints. Many technicians fall
prey to a lack of observation for the deduction of cause and
effect. When you're soldering a terminal to a wire, the FIRST
signs of solder appearing at the wire end of the joint is the
sign to STOP . . . any more solder will not add useful features
to the joint.
I heard someone say don't solder wires as the vibrations will crack at some
point?
Yup, one of those decades old mantras that have been circulated
and observed with reverence . . .
I installed a battery cable last night and after crimping it I soldered it.
Now if the solder cracks, it's still been crimped - so wouldn't that be the
best of both worlds?
No, unless he also observes the need for wire support outside
EITHER a soldered or crimped joint. When you take a stranded wire
and crimp it into a terminal, the stranding in the wire becomes
just as solid as if it were soldered. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
and in particular . .
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/GL.jpg
. . . here we see how the metal of the terminal and metal
of the wire strands have become a single entity. This is
NECESSARY for achievement of a gas-tight joint that will
withstand the worst the environment can throw at it.
If you review . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
. . . you will see where I've described the importance
of SUPPORT beyond the gas-tight joint . . . this applies
whether the joint is soldered or crimped.
There are practical exceptions. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/bndstrpl.jpg
Here we see a finely stranded grounding jumper that
has been soldered into terminals. The strands are
so small and the flow of solder beyond the back of
the joint is so limited as to pose no great risk to
wire breakage when extra support is not provided.
Some battery jumpers offered by B&C are assembled
like this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/sbl.jpg
Here too the joints are soldered and the terminals
fitted with rigid heat-shrink covers. This makes
for a nicer looking assembly but the covers add
little if any improvement in resistance to breaking
for the very fine strands in the welding cable.
I've considered this conversation some more last night
and recalled that someone was concerned about "stress
risers" in the wire. This is EXACTLY the point that
makes the wire last . . . LACK of stress risers. The
stranding is small so as to reduce stresses due to
flexing (consider flexibility of 1/4" glass rod compared
to Fiberglas strands in insulation). Review
text and supporting figure 8-1 in the 'Connection.
The Tefzel is a tough plastic . . . the term "plastic"
implies flexibility while minimizing stress. The
evolution of wire insulation materials from cotton
covered rubber up through the present family of
plastics has stepped to ever higher degrees of
robustness and resistance to mechanical and
chemical stresses.
I was initially challenged by your request for the description
of a repeatable experiment and after some consideration
I came to realize that the supporting experiments in the
case of wire have been carried out in the plastics laboratories
for decades. Flexibility of the wire has not been an issue
for 100+ years. Make the strands sufficiently fine and
lost of strands due to flexing/vibration goes to zero.
This leaves only the insulation which has taken quantum
jumps about every 20 years to a level that makes the
selection a VERY comfortable choice between materials
that will in all likelihood outlast the airplane's
service life by factors of 2-10 . . .
This explains the relatively simple qualification
requirements in Mil-W-22759. One wastes a lot of
$time$ repeating tests that have no fallout. If there
is no risk of a particular failure important to the
design and application of a product, then there is
no value in testing for that failure.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
sjhdcl@kingston.net wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>I'm looking for an elegant way to secure a single wire (small 22 AWG) to
>an aircraft part such as a rib. Too small for clamps unless build up wire
>with electrical tape. Needs to be removable. Any neat iders? Perhaps just
>a dab of 'Shoe Goo' or silicone.
>
>Steve
>RV7A
>
>
At 09:50 PM 5/26/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
>For just one or a couple of 22awg I like the self adhesive nylon wire
>clips that the wires snap into. About 1/2" square.
>For inaccessible places I use the rivet on nylon wire tie points and tie
>the wire to them. Works for one or many wires as they come in multiple
>sizes.
>Commercially parts in small quantity run about 10 cents each for either.
>Ken
I was going to suggest these. Radio Shack used to stock
them. No matter where you buy them, I would be wary of
the adhesive's ability to withstand the rigors of temperature
extremes. Few folks can match 3M when it comes to robustness
of adhesives.
We use these at RAC for non-critical support tasks like
small bundles of wires. When using them in your OBAM project,
I think I'd throw a pop-rivet into the center before mouting
the wire(s) to it. If the surface is not conducive to use
of screws or rivets, consider cleaning the adhesive pad
off the bottom of the anchor and gluing the pad into place
with E-6000.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Charging multiple batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 08:22 PM 5/26/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
>
>Bob et al: I have wired my Lancair IV with two batteries and one
>alternator--an adaptation of the Z diagrams in your book. So as I
>check out the
>avionics and other electrically powered systems, I need to top up the
>batteries.
>The easiest way to do that is to turn on both battery switches and hook the
>charger to the fat B field wire on the alternator (it is a TSIO-550, so the
>alternator is easily reached thru the air inlet when the cowling is
>installed).
>Question: is this a good idea?
>thanks, paul
Funny you should ask. I was just finishing up an illustration
of how to use the CBA-II battery analyzer as a data acquisition
system for evaluating battery maintainers. I purchased an el-cheeso
maintainer from Harbor Freight a few weeks ago but I've not had
a chance to see how "smart" it is.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/HF_Battery_Maintainer.jpg
Also picked up a brand name (Schumacher) charger maintainer
at Wallmart for about $18. I set it up to charge a dead car
battery. I clipped the CBA-II across the battery to "test"
it as a 16V, 8-cell, lead-acid battery with a discharge rate
of 0.02 A. The charger chugged along and produced this peformance
graph:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Battery_Maintenance/Schumacher_Bat_Maintainer.jpg
Seems the $low$ item from Wallmart performs as expected and
is about 1/2 the price of a Battery Tender, Jr and recharges
almost twice as fast.
I'm going to run the battery back down and then test the
El-Cheeso from HF.
In the mean time (to answer your question), if it were my
airplane, I'd add a 3A fused maintainer circuit to the battery
bus of both batteries. Arrange a connector let you plug in
a pair of low cost maintainers, one for each battery.
You need to be able to do this with EVERYTHING else in the
airplane turned OFF and with zero risk of having a maintainer
fuse open should you try to parallel a dead battery with a
good one so that you can use a single maintainer.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Charging multiple batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:08 AM 5/27/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 08:22 PM 5/26/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
> >
> >Bob et al: I have wired my Lancair IV with two batteries and one
> >alternator--an adaptation of the Z diagrams in your book. So as I
> >check out the
> >avionics and other electrically powered systems, I need to top up the
> >batteries.
> >The easiest way to do that is to turn on both battery switches and hook the
> >charger to the fat B field wire on the alternator (it is a TSIO-550, so the
> >alternator is easily reached thru the air inlet when the cowling is
> >installed).
> >Question: is this a good idea?
> >thanks, paul
I think I missed the gist of your original inquiry. The problem
you're posing is how to put power on the airplane for ground operations.
The technique you describe is certainly functional. There are some
cautions . . . if the "charger" is not a quiet power supply, there
may be risks to system components if the charger is used to power
up the airplane without the BEST filter in the airplane . . .
BATTERIES.
May I suggest that a ground power receptacle is in order? See
figure Z-31 in . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11B.pdf
This connection will allow you to plug in a ground power
cart for starting assist in cold weather. You can also
plug in a high quality power supplies like:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=88758&item=5777099961&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48708&item=5777375867&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=99265&item=5775145551&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V
for extended maintenance operations on the ground.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Automatic x-feed contactor control??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Coments/Questions: Bob-
First some background. I have already decided on a dual battery, dual alt
for my IO-550 powered Velocity XL. I have the 70amp "main" alt and the B&C
SD-20 "essential" alt. I have B&C regulators for both with warning lights
for each. My plan was for a crossfeed switch "off,auto,on" position like
you suggest. But I was NOT planning on ganging the buses together for
starting. My plan was for your LOW volt module to hang off the essential
bus and "auto" switch if it went down. If the main went down I would switch
when workload permitted if at all. The essential is sized for running it's
load for the endurance of the tanks. I planned on wiring a "Xfeed" warning
light also.
My problem is, I thought that your Low Voltage module would handle the
"auto" switch feature. I have bought the bare board, compontents from
Digikey and have the instructions. But looking more closely I see it's
designed to close the crossfeed contactor when
the things are good, not bad. What mod do I need to do to switch it's
functionality around.
The low voltage warning system was designed to handle AUX
batteries, not the cross-feed contactor.
Not easily done without adding more components. Why automate
the crossfeed function. The whole idea about Figure Z-14 is to
design a situation where one side can go down completely and NOT
cause you to break a sweat. In this case, there is no urgency
in doing anything to bring a black-system back up . . . further,
the likelihood that any single failure will take a system to
black is very rare. Your regulators are already fitted with
low voltage warning lights. If any one of these lights comes
on, there's no value in having the system automatically
react to this condition. You're better off making a considered
judgement as to WHEN the cross-feed will be closed and what
items will be operated off the compromised bus.
The automatic feature you contemplate adds complexity, cost
of ownership, reduced reliability and adds no safety.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Charging multiple batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Paul -
We wired in the piper type adaptor per Bob's paper to the Z-14 diagram. We
put the receptacle on the aft wall of the baggage compartment of our ES.
We wired to male plug to a shop power supply we bought off of eBay and
plug it into the receptacle. We use it all the time to trouble shoot the
system. It was set for 13.6 volts and it runs both our busses at that
voltage.
Pics available if you need them.
John
>> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
>> >
>> >Bob et al: I have wired my Lancair IV with two batteries and one
>> >alternator--
>
>> May I suggest that a ground power receptacle is in order? See
> figure Z-31 in . . .
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11B.pdf
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
I've had trouble with these things falling off, unless I use a dab of
5minute epoxy to attach them. I slightly scuff-sand the place to be
bonded to, mix up a blob of 5min and hold the tab in place with a piece of
tape. None have dis-bonded that have been attached like this. The little
sticky area in the center doesn't seem to cause any problems with epoxy.
Additionally, I think you can buy these tabs without the sticky stuff, but
I'll bet they are more money.
Regards,
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>
> sjhdcl@kingston.net wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
> >
> >I'm looking for an elegant way to secure a single wire (small 22 AWG)
> to an aircraft part such as a rib. Too small for clamps unless build
> up wire with electrical tape. Needs to be removable. Any neat iders?
> Perhaps just a dab of 'Shoe Goo' or silicone.
> >
> >Steve
> >RV7A
> >
> >
>
> At 09:50 PM 5/26/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>>
>>For just one or a couple of 22awg I like the self adhesive nylon wire
>> clips that the wires snap into. About 1/2" square.
>>For inaccessible places I use the rivet on nylon wire tie points and
>> tie the wire to them. Works for one or many wires as they come in
>> multiple sizes.
>>Commercially parts in small quantity run about 10 cents each for
>> either. Ken
>
>
> I was going to suggest these. Radio Shack used to stock
> them. No matter where you buy them, I would be wary of
> the adhesive's ability to withstand the rigors of temperature
> extremes. Few folks can match 3M when it comes to robustness
> of adhesives.
>
> We use these at RAC for non-critical support tasks like
> small bundles of wires. When using them in your OBAM project,
> I think I'd throw a pop-rivet into the center before mouting
> the wire(s) to it. If the surface is not conducive to use
> of screws or rivets, consider cleaning the adhesive pad
> off the bottom of the anchor and gluing the pad into place
> with E-6000.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Automatic x-feed contactor control??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Larkin" <mlas@cox.net>
I would agree with Bob (he is a god after all), I have the same basic
system going into my Lancair Legacy illustrated in the
comments/questions. Ponder this: if you have a bus short that causes a
failure on one bus, would you want the bus to AUTO X-feed. Remember 1/2
a system is better then none at all... And if you have dual electronic
ignitions you will need 1/2 the system.. Or one could transform their
airplane into a glider.
Mike Larkin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Automatic x-feed contactor control???
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
Coments/Questions: Bob-
First some background. I have already decided on a dual battery, dual
alt
for my IO-550 powered Velocity XL. I have the 70amp "main" alt and the
B&C
SD-20 "essential" alt. I have B&C regulators for both with warning
lights
for each. My plan was for a crossfeed switch "off,auto,on" position like
you suggest. But I was NOT planning on ganging the buses together for
starting. My plan was for your LOW volt module to hang off the essential
bus and "auto" switch if it went down. If the main went down I would
switch
when workload permitted if at all. The essential is sized for running
it's
load for the endurance of the tanks. I planned on wiring a "Xfeed"
warning
light also.
My problem is, I thought that your Low Voltage module would handle the
"auto" switch feature. I have bought the bare board, compontents from
Digikey and have the instructions. But looking more closely I see it's
designed to close the crossfeed contactor when
the things are good, not bad. What mod do I need to do to switch it's
functionality around.
The low voltage warning system was designed to handle AUX
batteries, not the cross-feed contactor.
Not easily done without adding more components. Why automate
the crossfeed function. The whole idea about Figure Z-14 is to
design a situation where one side can go down completely and NOT
cause you to break a sweat. In this case, there is no urgency
in doing anything to bring a black-system back up . . . further,
the likelihood that any single failure will take a system to
black is very rare. Your regulators are already fitted with
low voltage warning lights. If any one of these lights comes
on, there's no value in having the system automatically
react to this condition. You're better off making a considered
judgement as to WHEN the cross-feed will be closed and what
items will be operated off the compromised bus.
The automatic feature you contemplate adds complexity, cost
of ownership, reduced reliability and adds no safety.
Bob . . .
--
--
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:17 AM 5/27/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
>
>I've had trouble with these things falling off, unless I use a dab of
>5minute epoxy to attach them. I slightly scuff-sand the place to be
>bonded to, mix up a blob of 5min and hold the tab in place with a piece of
>tape. None have dis-bonded that have been attached like this. The little
>sticky area in the center doesn't seem to cause any problems with epoxy.
>Additionally, I think you can buy these tabs without the sticky stuff, but
>I'll bet they are more money.
I'll bet you're right. The ones we use at RAC are 3M products fitted
with their VHB (very high bond) adhesive technologies. Somebody had
to look at these pretty carefully before they allowed them on the
airplane and then, I'm sure their use is restricted. Any other
product should be applied with caution.
I would caution also about use of any epoxy to grab onto either
metal or plastic. When I did the bond-stud tests a couple of
years ago we looked at various adhesives. The fast setting, pure
plastic epoxies were the worst. Very moderate adhesion
at room temp . . . poor at 160F.
JB Weld was a little better:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
The best was E-6000 or "Sho-Goo"
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
This stuff hangs on well at 160F . . . the test
illustrated held over 50# in sheer at 160+ degrees
for the aluminum bond stud.
I would expect similar performance for the nylon
mounts. A pop-rivet through the center is probably the
best overall.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vern W." <vernw@ev1.net>
Add E-6000 to the mix as well. As an adhesive, it's almost magical.
Vern
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Securing small wires
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 10:17 AM 5/27/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather"
<mprather@spro.net>
> >
> >I've had trouble with these things falling off, unless I use a dab of
> >5minute epoxy to attach them. I slightly scuff-sand the place to be
> >bonded to, mix up a blob of 5min and hold the tab in place with a piece
of
> >tape. None have dis-bonded that have been attached like this. The
little
> >sticky area in the center doesn't seem to cause any problems with epoxy.
> >Additionally, I think you can buy these tabs without the sticky stuff,
but
> >I'll bet they are more money.
>
> I'll bet you're right. The ones we use at RAC are 3M products fitted
> with their VHB (very high bond) adhesive technologies. Somebody had
> to look at these pretty carefully before they allowed them on the
> airplane and then, I'm sure their use is restricted. Any other
> product should be applied with caution.
>
> I would caution also about use of any epoxy to grab onto either
> metal or plastic. When I did the bond-stud tests a couple of
> years ago we looked at various adhesives. The fast setting, pure
> plastic epoxies were the worst. Very moderate adhesion
> at room temp . . . poor at 160F.
>
> JB Weld was a little better:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
>
> The best was E-6000 or "Sho-Goo"
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
>
> This stuff hangs on well at 160F . . . the test
> illustrated held over 50# in sheer at 160+ degrees
> for the aluminum bond stud.
>
> I would expect similar performance for the nylon
> mounts. A pop-rivet through the center is probably the
> best overall.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bob -
We bought some of these from you and absolutely love them. I know you are
out of them, but if you get a line on some more, let us know. I've looked
all over the internet and could find none that could fill their shoes. We
used E-6000 and have four #2 welding cables hanging off of them and they
are solid.
John
On Fri, 27 May 2005 13:19:42 -0500, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
> I would caution also about use of any epoxy to grab onto either
> metal or plastic. When I did the bond-stud tests a couple of
> years ago we looked at various adhesives.
--
Message 14
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| Subject: | Calculating Electrical Load |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
Would you believe I had almost 1700 emails when I got home?
Talk to ya when you get back in town.
I'm anxious to find out what info you got on this subject. Just off the
top of my head - and I may be way off base - but shouldn't it take the
same amount of power to operate the device? So 5.19V x 1.05A = 5.45W ,
and therefore 5.45W / 14V = .39Amps?
Anyway - see ya' soon.
-bh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
SMITHBKN@aol.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Calculating Electrical Load
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SMITHBKN@aol.com
I've just getting started on the electrical system of my RV-7A. I have
the
AeroElectric Connection book and I've read it, but being a rookie on
things
electrical I'm going to need some help.
I've started calculating loads for the system that I would like to have
and
I'm not sure how to handle components that are rated for a voltage
different
than the voltage of the system on the plane.
For example, I have a roll servo, built by Superior Electric, that has
on the
spec plate the following information:
Stepping Motor Type KML061F02
5.19 VDC
1.05 AMP
I assume my plane's system voltage while operating normally will be
"about 14
volts" according to information on page 2-8 of AeroElectric Connection.
So, in order to calculate the amperage required to run the servo motor
do I
use the 1.05 amp shown on the spec plate, or do I need to calculate a
new
amperage using the 14 volt system voltage that will be supplied to the
motor by my
plane's alternator?
If it is the latter, am I doing the calculation correctly?
Volts = Amps X Resistance
5.19 V = 1.05 amp X (unknown)
5.19 V/1.05 amp = 4.94 ohms
Then, substituting the know resistance back into the same formula I can
calculate a new amperage for the 14 volt situation:
14 V = (unknown amps) X 4.94 ohms
14 V/4.94 ohms = 2.8 amps
So, for my load calculations on my system I would have to use a 2.8 amp
value
for the current needed to run the motor. Is this correct?
I suppose the motor could have some sort of internal step-down function
that
takes the 14 V system voltage and reduces it to 5.19 V stated on the
spec
plate, but I have no idea if this is how things like this work.
I know this is basic stuff, but I really appreciate someone's help.
Jeff
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Larkin" <mlas@cox.net>
The PDA system from anywhere map comes with the proper adapter. Most if
not all PDA's use Lithium-ion or Lithium polymer batteries which use a
constant voltage charging system. If you try to use a Ni-cad type
charger you will trip the circuit protection of the battery. If the
battery doesn't have a protection circuit you will cook the battery or
possibly start a fire. So always use the correct adapter/charger when
using these types of devices.
Mike Larkin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Swartout
Subject: AeroElectric-List: PDA power
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Swartout"
<jgswartout@earthlink.net>
Are any of you using PDA's or Pocket PC's such as Dell Axim or HP iPAQ
to run GPS moving map navigation programs such as AnywhereMap or
MountainScope or TeleType, and here is my question:
Are you using batteries to run this device, or feeding it from your
airplane's electrical system? I haven't seen in the specifications for
any of these devices how many volts they run on (I don't own one yet),
nor whether they can run on external power sources. Also, if you are
using a separate GPS receiver, either Bluetooth or wired, to feed the
PDA, are you running THAT on batteries, does it receive power from the
PDA, or are you running it from ship's power?
Bottom line, to save $$$ on batteries and avoid the nuisance of wanting
to start a trip and not having any charged Ni-cad's on hand, I would
like to supply these devices--GPS receiver and PDA, from ship's power,
and would like to know the best way to supply the correct voltage.
I have read numerous posts on the subject of converting DC to DC of a
different voltage but nothing definitive.
Thanks in advance.
John
--
--
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 05/27/2005 2:14:13 PM Central Standard Time, vernw@ev1.net
writes:
Add E-6000 to the mix as well. As an adhesive, it's almost magical.
>>>>
If this is the same as GOOP, I gotta agree- Isn't this the stuff Grumman
used to skin their singles? 8-)
Mark
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 08:15 PM 5/27/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 05/27/2005 2:14:13 PM Central Standard Time, vernw@ev1.net
>writes:
>Add E-6000 to the mix as well. As an adhesive, it's almost magical.
> >>>>
>
>If this is the same as GOOP, I gotta agree- Isn't this the stuff Grumman
>used to skin their singles? 8-)
The stuff is sold under a ton of brand names including GOOP who
sells lots of stickums besides the E-6000. Hobby lobby and most
hardware stores handle E-6000 as does Walmart in the hobbies/crafts
department.
As far as I know right now, it's only offered in water-clear
formulations and uses trichlorethane or similar as a solvent . . .
it's reminiscent of the smell you get in a dry-cleaning
establishment. This is a solvent based adhesive that would be
vulnerable to hydrocarbons . . . it also takes quite awhile
to reach full strength especially in deep sections. Don't
load the joint for 24 hours and 48 is better.
Once set up, it's quite tenacious.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> The stuff is sold under a ton of brand names including GOOP who
> sells lots of stickums besides the E-6000. Hobby lobby and most
> hardware stores handle E-6000 as does Walmart in the hobbies/crafts
> department.
>
> As far as I know right now, it's only offered in water-clear
> formulations and uses trichlorethane or similar as a solvent . . .
> it's reminiscent of the smell you get in a dry-cleaning
> establishment. This is a solvent based adhesive that would be
> vulnerable to hydrocarbons . . . it also takes quite awhile
> to reach full strength especially in deep sections. Don't
> load the joint for 24 hours and 48 is better.
From our buddies at McMaster-Carr:
High-Strength Adhesives/Sealants
As the industrial version of Goop, these elastomeric adhesives bond and
seal spaces in metal, wood, glass, some plastics (including ABS, acrylic,
polycarbonate, and PVC), composites, tile, cement, rubber, leather, and
vinyl. They stay flexible for use on dissimilar materials and can be
painted. Begin to harden in 4-5 minutes; reach full strength in 24-72 hours.
Application temperature range is +70 to +85 F. Operating temperature
range is -40 to +150 F. Color is clear. The 10.2-oz cartridges fit a
standard caulk gun. Note: Will dissolve or soften when used with solvents
such as gasoline and toluene.
Standard- For indoor use. Resists acids and caustics. Marine- For
outdoor use. Resists yellowing when exposed to sunlight. Can be used as an
underwater sealant. Excellent resistance to saltwater spray and corrosives.
Nonsagging- Ideal for indoor overhead and vertical use.
Standard Marine Nonsagging
Size Each Each Each
3.7-oz. Tube 7475A65 $4.27
7475A67 $6.36
-- --
10.2-oz. Cartridge 7475A66 6.13
7475A68 7.67
7475A69 $6.51
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Securing small wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> From our buddies at McMaster-Carr:
>
>High-Strength Adhesives/Sealants
> As the industrial version of Goop, these elastomeric adhesives bond and
>seal spaces in metal, wood, glass, some plastics (including ABS, acrylic,
>polycarbonate, and PVC), composites, tile, cement, rubber, leather, and
>vinyl. They stay flexible for use on dissimilar materials and can be
>painted. Begin to harden in 4-5 minutes; reach full strength in 24-72 hours.
>Application temperature range is +70 to +85 F. Operating temperature
>range is -40 to +150 F. Color is clear. The 10.2-oz cartridges fit a
>standard caulk gun. Note: Will dissolve or soften when used with solvents
>such as gasoline and toluene.
> Standard- For indoor use. Resists acids and caustics. Marine- For
>outdoor use. Resists yellowing when exposed to sunlight. Can be used as an
>underwater sealant. Excellent resistance to saltwater spray and corrosives.
>Nonsagging- Ideal for indoor overhead and vertical use.
> Standard Marine Nonsagging
>Size Each Each Each
>
>3.7-oz. Tube 7475A65 $4.27
> 7475A67 $6.36
> -- --
>
>10.2-oz. Cartridge 7475A66 6.13
> 7475A68 7.67
> 7475A69 $6.51
Here's the poop from the folks who make it and I think rebrand it
for everyone else.
http://www.gluguru.com/1_part_adhesives.htm#Eclectic
I think we get the 3.7 oz tubes at Wallmart and Hobby Lobby for
under $3 each.
Bob . . .
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