Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:50 AM - Re: PTT SWITCH (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:03 AM - Re: twisted wire pairs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:10 AM - Re: twisted wire pairs (Ken)
4. 08:58 AM - Re: twisted wire pairs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 10:43 AM - Odissey batteries (Carlos Trigo)
6. 12:48 PM - Re: Odissey batteries (Earl_Schroeder)
7. 01:05 PM - Re: Odyssey batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 01:26 PM - Re: Odissey batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 02:56 PM - Fw: For Electric Bob - Clarification needed on stuck transmit lite on microair 760 (Rick Fogerson)
10. 06:28 PM - D-sub connection screws (chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org)
11. 07:03 PM - Re: D-sub connection screws (D Wysong)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:00 AM 6/14/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <jlundberg@cox.net>
>
>
>Does anyone have any tips on putting a push-to-talk switch on the yoke of
>my Cherokee Six? Also where can I buy aircraft grade coiled microphone
>cord that I can use between the switch and the jack?
To mount but button neatly on the tip of a control
horn like the "big guys do" requires long drills,
some machining and is certain to draw intense interest
from those-who-know-more-about-building-airplanes-
than-we-do. An in all fairness, there are issues of
reduced strength of an part when one hollows it out
for the passage of wires.
The most effective method I've seen in the rental
aircraft I fly is to fabricate a small bracket that
clamps or is bonded to the control in some place
both handy to reach and practical. If you mount it
hi up on the horn, then you have a wire to route
down the horn . . . saw one installation where the
wire was held to the horn by wrapping of silicone
rubber guide-line tape!
Probably the easiest is a bracket down low on the
width of the yoke where the wire runs a short distance
toward the center and is tied off right on the
control tube centerline. The coil cord can be extended
from this location to a grommet right under the
control tube bushing on the panel.
There ain't no such thing as an "aircraft quality"
anything . . . only parts which appear on a manufacture's
bill of materials for a certificated airframe . . . which
doesn't morph Carling's G-series hardware store switches
into a Cessna Service Parts Center "aircraft quality"
devices.
If you were looking for a multi-conductor coil cord
suited to the task . . . IT'S NOT EASY. However, the
best bet I can offer for a two conductor cord for
PTT is cut out of a coiled flash gun trigger cord.
A good example is at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=64354&item=7523536455&rd=1
If you have access to a local camera store that
offers used cameras and/or repair services, they'll
have a junk-box full of similar cords that are small
in diameter, more robust than coil cords for phones
and easy to work with. There are other examples but
this is the first one that came to mind.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: twisted wire pairs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:44 PM 6/13/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <jlundberg@cox.net>
>
>
>What type of twisted pair wire do you use for the headset and mic hookups
>in the intercoms you all are talking about?? Where do you buy this wire?
>
>I have been using shielded multiconductor milspec wire from Steinair and
>it has been rather expensive but at least it is tefzel and its very
>durable stuff.
I often use multiconductor cable that's shielded JUST
because it IS multi-conductor and bundled for convenience
whether I NEED the shield or not. I have huge spools
of the stuff left over from our production days. Sold
most to B&C but kept one spool of each type for shop
use.
You can twist your own assemblies. Start with 22AWG
tefzel of sufficient number of strands. Chuck one end
in your drill motor and the other in a vise or have someone
hold it. Put tension on wires and spin until you have
about 5-7 turns per inch. Keep tension on and reverse the
drill to partially unwind the bundle . . . if you don't
do this, at least control the spin-out of torque tension
as the bundle relaxes when you take it out of the drill
chuck. If it gets away from you, it will often coil
up like a snake and tangle.
I've built twisted bundles of up to 5 wires and 50'
long with this technique. Dirt cheap, simple, and
very effective.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: twisted wire pairs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
For up to about 5 feet I just braid them. Left over right, left over
right, etc. Quick and no twist in the wires although not as tightly
wound as using a drill of course.
Ken
snip
> You can twist your own assemblies. Start with 22AWG
> tefzel of sufficient number of strands. Chuck one end
> in your drill motor and the other in a vise or have someone
> hold it. Put tension on wires and spin until you have
> about 5-7 turns per inch. Keep tension on and reverse the
> drill to partially unwind the bundle . . . if you don't
> do this, at least control the spin-out of torque tension
> as the bundle relaxes when you take it out of the drill
> chuck. If it gets away from you, it will often coil
> up like a snake and tangle.
>
> I've built twisted bundles of up to 5 wires and 50'
> long with this technique. Dirt cheap, simple, and
> very effective.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: twisted wire pairs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 11:11 AM 6/14/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
>For up to about 5 feet I just braid them. Left over right, left over
>right, etc. Quick and no twist in the wires although not as tightly
>wound as using a drill of course.
>Ken
Great alternative! I'd forgotten about that. I'll often
braid wires that are used for small bundles that run
between black boxes . . . especially bench test fixtures.
Braiding products a VERY flexible bundle that won't un-wind.
Bob . . .
>snip
>
> > You can twist your own assemblies. Start with 22AWG
> > tefzel of sufficient number of strands. Chuck one end
> > in your drill motor and the other in a vise or have someone
> > hold it. Put tension on wires and spin until you have
> > about 5-7 turns per inch. Keep tension on and reverse the
> > drill to partially unwind the bundle . . . if you don't
> > do this, at least control the spin-out of torque tension
> > as the bundle relaxes when you take it out of the drill
> > chuck. If it gets away from you, it will often coil
> > up like a snake and tangle.
> >
> > I've built twisted bundles of up to 5 wires and 50'
> > long with this technique. Dirt cheap, simple, and
> > very effective.
> >
> > Bob . . .
Message 5
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Received-SPF: softfail (mta4: domain of transitioning trigo@mail.telepac.pt does
not designate 85.138.30.109 as permitted sender) receiver=mta4; client_ip=85.138.30.109;
envelope-from=trigo@mail.telepac.pt;
| Subject: | Odissey batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
Bob and all
I am planning to use (in my RV-9A with Egg Subaru) 2 Odissey batteries, and this
brand is widely used in the OBAM community.
Lately I became aware of some problems with this batteries, from which the cause
is not well determined.
I know that Bob will say "send the wrecked batts to me to be dissected", but I
found this link
http://batterytender.com/notice_odyssey.php
about which I would like to hear your comments, mainly on the voltage of the charging
current (14.2v of many alternators not being sufficient to the 14.7 that
Odissey batteries need).
Is it only a result of a commercial dispute or can it be a real cause?
Carlos Trigo
Portugal
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Odissey batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Earl_Schroeder <Earl_Schroeder@juno.com>
Carlos,
This has been discussed previously [in the last several months]. I have
the Odyssey battery in my Lancair and after reading Bob's answer
dismissed the supposed 'charging problem' as no concern of mine. You
might find the discussion in the archives. Earl
Carlos Trigo wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>
>Bob and all
>
>I am planning to use (in my RV-9A with Egg Subaru) 2 Odissey batteries, and this
brand is widely used in the OBAM community.
>Lately I became aware of some problems with this batteries, from which the cause
is not well determined.
>I know that Bob will say "send the wrecked batts to me to be dissected", but I
found this link
>http://batterytender.com/notice_odyssey.php
>about which I would like to hear your comments, mainly on the voltage of the charging
current (14.2v of many alternators not being sufficient to the 14.7 that
Odissey batteries need).
>Is it only a result of a commercial dispute or can it be a real cause?
>
>Carlos Trigo
>Portugal
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:42 PM 6/14/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Carlos Trigo"
><trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>
>Bob and all
>
>I am planning to use (in my RV-9A with Egg Subaru) 2 Odissey batteries,
>and this brand is widely used in the OBAM community.
>Lately I became aware of some problems with this batteries, from which the
>cause is not well determined.
What have you heard? Do we know who has reported any
problems. I'd like to at least converse with the individuals
who are reporting these events.
>I know that Bob will say "send the wrecked batts to me to be dissected",
>but I found this link
>http://batterytender.com/notice_odyssey.php
>about which I would like to hear your comments, mainly on the voltage of
>the charging current (14.2v of many alternators not being sufficient to
>the 14.7 that Odissey batteries need).
>Is it only a result of a commercial dispute or can it be a real cause?
Complaints in the Batterytender posting are
mystifying. The voltages cited on the Odyssey website
http://www.enersysreservepower.com/odycharg_a.asp
. . . are completely consistent with voltages cited
for other lead-acid products INCLUDING those
produced by Enersys (Hawker) and virtually
every other manufacturer.
The assertion concerning "Pulse Cranking
Amperes" not being an approved
or recognized method for rating a battery is
silly. One can rate a battery any way they
wish as long as the rating is explained. I've
never depended on "Cold Cranking Amps" as a
meaningful measurement of performance because
my industry deals in gross capacity, and what's
called an "Ip" test (load battery to 1/2 open circuit
terminal voltage for 15 seconds and measure
current at end of that interval). This is a
recognized and understood testing philosophy
for aircraft batteries that we all understand.
If Odyssey posted a value for Ip instead of
"Cold Cranking Amps" the writer would no doubt
be equally upset. I'm disappointed that someone
with the experience of Batterytender should take
such a position.
Bottom line is that Batterytender writer's assertions
are floobydust. I have heard nothing concerning
problems unique to Odyssey batteries in the field
. . . but I'd sure like to know more.
I went through the Enersys_Hawker facility about
a year ago. ALL of the Enersys products are assembled
in the same plant on the same equipment. The only
differences across the product lines are variability
in assembly to accommodate deep discharge versus
hi-rate discharge batteries.
As far as I know right now, the Odyssey is a fine
premium battery product that can be treated like any
other sealed lead-acid battery.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Odissey batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 02:44 PM 6/14/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Earl_Schroeder
><Earl_Schroeder@juno.com>
>
>Carlos,
>This has been discussed previously [in the last several months]. I have
>the Odyssey battery in my Lancair and after reading Bob's answer
>dismissed the supposed 'charging problem' as no concern of mine. You
>might find the discussion in the archives. Earl
>
>Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Carlos Trigo"
> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
> >
> >Bob and all
> >
> >I am planning to use (in my RV-9A with Egg Subaru) 2 Odissey batteries,
> and this brand is widely used in the OBAM community.
> >Lately I became aware of some problems with this batteries, from which
> the cause is not well determined.
> >I know that Bob will say "send the wrecked batts to me to be dissected",
> but I found this link
> >http://batterytender.com/notice_odyssey.php
> >about which I would like to hear your comments, mainly on the voltage of
> the charging current (14.2v of many alternators not being sufficient to
> the 14.7 that Odissey batteries need).
> >Is it only a result of a commercial dispute or can it be a real cause?
> >
> >Carlos Trigo
> >Portugal
I knew I'd posted a response to the Deltran/BatteryTender
article but couldn't find it in my own archives. Dug this
of the Matronics archives and permanently posted it to my
website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Batteries/Deltran_Odyssey_Floobydust.html
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | ectric-List:For Electric Bob - Clarification needed on stuck |
transmit lite on microair 760
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Clarification of Stuck transmit lite on
microair 760
>
> Just to clarify that we're both talking apples to apples:
> 1) Does the fact that it only appears to stick in transmit (only
> indication is red light stays on) when the mic jack is plugged in mean
> something other than the transmit button is sticky? When the mic cord is
> not plugged in, it doesn't stick.
>
> 2) The button itself does not appear to be sticking, in a mechanical
> sense at least. Could this be an electrical, not a mechanical problem,
> say in the wiring of the radio?
>
> 3) Also, it is not a hand held button, it is on the Ray Allen stick
> grip. Does that matter?
>
> Thanks in advance for any clarification and/or advice.
> Rick
>
>>>Hi Bob,
>>>I'm trying to trouble shoot a problem with the Microair 760
>>>transeiver. With the microphone plugged into the jack, pushing the PTT
>>>button (ray allen stick grip) causes the red (transmit) lite on the
>>>transeiver to stay on after the button is released. Only when I pull out
>>>the mic does it go off. With the mic out, the red lite comes on when the
>>>PTT is pushed and goes out, as it should, when the PTT is released. Do
>>>you have any idea what might be wrong.
>>
>> Sounds like something sticking in the mic's PTT
>> mechanism. This is a VERY common problem with
>> hand held microphones.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | D-sub connection screws |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID859JFoBbw0155X36
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
What size screwss are used to hold D-sub connectors in place generally (DB-9,
DB-25, etc.)? I'm not looking for the size of the screw that holds the plastic
enclosure together - rather the screws that hold the female part of the
connection to the male. I don't have a pitch gage at the moment so I can't
just measure it myself.
Thanks
Chad
Chad Sipperley
Lancair IVP-turbine (under construction)
Phoenix, AZ
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: D-sub connection screws |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
Either #4-40 UNC or M3.
D
----------------------
chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
>
> What size screwss are used to hold D-sub connectors in place generally (DB-9,
> DB-25, etc.)? I'm not looking for the size of the screw that holds the plastic
> enclosure together - rather the screws that hold the female part of the
> connection to the male. I don't have a pitch gage at the moment so I can't
> just measure it myself.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chad
>
>
> Chad Sipperley
> Lancair IVP-turbine (under construction)
> Phoenix, AZ
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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