AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 06/15/05


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:31 AM - Re: D-sub connection screws (LarryRobertHelming)
     2. 05:31 AM - Re: D-sub connection screws (John Schroeder)
     3. 06:16 AM - Re: D-sub connection screws (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 06:17 AM - Re: D-sub connection screws (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 07:34 AM - Re: Fw: Europa-List: Voltage Regulator Problem? (Ken)
     6. 08:11 AM - Re: Fw: Europa-List: Voltage Regulator Problem? (D Wysong)
     7. 03:41 PM - Engine ground (John Swartout)
     8. 07:06 PM - Wire Book Samples for AeroElectric Weekend Seminars (Hotmail)
     9. 08:14 PM - Re: Engine ground (Jim Jewell)
    10. 08:28 PM - Re: Wire Book Samples for AeroElectric (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 09:03 PM - Re: Fw: Europa-List: Voltage Regulator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 09:10 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 06/14/05 (Kevin Hester)
    13. 10:17 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 06/14/05 (Walter Tondu)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:31:57 AM PST US
    From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
    Subject: Re: D-sub connection screws
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net> You can also safety tie them together. No worry of vibrating loose. Indiana Larry > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org > > What size screwss are used to hold D-sub connectors in place generally > (DB-9, > DB-25, etc.)? I'm not looking for the size of the screw that holds the > plastic > enclosure together - rather the screws that hold the female part of the > connection to the male. I don't have a pitch gage at the moment so I can't > just measure it myself. > > Thanks > > Chad


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:31:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: D-sub connection screws
    From: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net> Chad - I really love Dsubs - easy pinning and great to use for an aux power buss or aux ground buss (avionics). I have yet to find a good enclosure that provides (1) a flexible way for wire support coming out of the connector (2) a way to connect a male to a female connector to join two cables together or (3) to fasten them to a plug on a device. The screws and hex standoffs always seem to be not deep enough (standoffs) or the screws too long such that you have to use a washer. Also you should have some way to lock them. We use split lock washers, but they never come in the little packages. The long knurled screws like you find on computer dSubs can be ordered, but they also do not fit most of the housings. Using the slotted screws to lock them together or to a device is a royal pain in most places we used them on the airplane. If you find solutions to this and to yours, I'd love to know the product number and manufacturer. I finally switched to Molex Mini-Fit Juniors or to AMP CPC's The Type II CPC's use the same machined pins that the Dsubs use and that really helps. Cheers, John On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 18:27:22 -0700, <chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org> wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org > > What size screwss are used to hold D-sub connectors in place generally > (DB-9, > DB-25, etc.)? I'm not looking for the size of the screw that holds the > plastic > enclosure together - rather the screws that hold the female part of the > connection to the male. I don't have a pitch gage at the moment so I > can't > just measure it myself. > > Thanks > > Chad > > > Chad Sipperley > Lancair IVP-turbine (under construction) > Phoenix, AZ > > do not archive > > --


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:16:29 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: D-sub connection screws
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 08:28 AM 6/15/2005 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" ><jschroeder@perigee.net> > >Chad - > >I really love Dsubs - easy pinning and great to use for an aux power buss >or aux ground buss (avionics). I have yet to find a good enclosure that >provides: >(1) a flexible way for wire support coming out of the connector there are a variety of back-shells that come in two pieces to install after the connector is wired. When used without backshells, wire bundles may be tied up and supported like any array of terminated wires that might go to a row of switches, breakers, etc. Usually, >(2) a way to connect a male to a female connector to join two cables >together or: Most backshells come with male jackscrews for holding a d-sub to a chassis mounted connector. Female jackscrews can be installed on the mating connector to accommodate the other connector. See: http://jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&categoryId=302530 and http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T052/0159.pdf > (3) to fasten them to a plug on a device. The screws and hex >standoffs always seem to be not deep enough (standoffs) or the screws too >long such that you have to use a washer. There are no hard standards for lengths and depths of threads on mating screws. It may take a bit of fitting on a case by case basis. > Also you should have some way to >lock them. We use split lock washers, but they never come in the little >packages. In my never humble opinion, the split lockwasher is unsuitable for fishing line sinkers much less adding mechanical integrity to a threaded fastener. If you're concerned about jackscrews backing out, use 4-40 drilled head screw (or drill the shank of the long handled jack screw) for safety wire. There are alternative shake-proof joiners for d-sub connectors. Consider the wire-bail locks. > The long knurled screws like you find on computer dSubs can be >ordered, but they also do not fit most of the housings. Using the slotted >screws to lock them together or to a device is a royal pain in most places >we used them on the airplane. If you find solutions to this and to yours, >I'd love to know the product number and manufacturer. We've used d-subs for years in both commercial aircraft and military programs where the connectors were simply held together with the 4-40 hardware found on: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T052/0159.pdf . . . and used without special locking provisions. These assemblies have endured both environmental testing and have proven adequate in the field for decades. I think concerns for securing attach hardware are not great. You might consider dabbing rtv on threads at final assembly. This provides an excellent anti-rotation friction that would prevent vibration loosening without affecting ability to service the connection later. Bob . . .


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:17:41 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: D-sub connection screws
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 06:29 AM 6/15/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" ><lhelming@sigecom.net> > >You can also safety tie them together. No worry of vibrating loose. > >Indiana Larry This is certainly applicable for cable-cable joints. I often use a pair of tie wraps (through the screw holes) to hold the connectors in joined position. Flat lace cable string works good too. Bob . . .


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:34:16 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Fwd: Europa-List: Voltage Regulator Problem?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> Is there overvoltage protection and are you certain there are no loose connections? No one commented but I posted a situation a couple of weeks ago where I had a loose connection to a relay that when wiggled would apparently trigger the overvoltage crowbar and pop the breaker, even without the engine running. Ken D Wysong wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com> > >Here's another, Bob! > >--> Europa-List message posted by: MJKTuck@cs.com > >Hi Folks, > >The last two or three times I have gone flying I have experienced a problem >with the 5A ALT FIELD circuit breaker popping. The solution at first seemed >easy just push it back in and all is well. It occurs usually at start up soon >after I turn on the radio panel circuit. > >A couple of flights ago it popped a couple more times in the cruise and I >reset it with no further problems. > >Yesterday however it popped quite a number of times (5 or 6) and only settled >down after I had turned the radio master off and back on again. I don't see >how turning the radios off would affect the ALT circuit breaker except I >suppose they use the most load. > >Looking at the circuit the breaker is located between output C on the voltage >regulator and the main power bus (and thus the battery positive). Very >simple. > >The only thing I can think of is that the voltage regulator is spiking at >more than 5 amps until it 'warms up' or reaches some kind of battery charged >point after the battery has been used after start (although the engine typically >fires after just a few turns). > >Any ideas and/or solutions as to what the problem might be would be >appreciated. I would like to trouble shoot before replacing the >regulator but do not >want to remove the panel unless I really have to. > >P.S I usually turn on (both) the split master/alt switch - perhaps I should >only turn on the alternator after engine start? I have close to 200 hours >flying time on the aircraft so again this is a doubtful cause. > >Regards, >Martin Tuck >Europa N152MT >Wichita, Kansas > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:11:41 AM PST US
    From: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Fwd: Europa-List: Voltage Regulator Problem?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com> Martin's CB label was wrong (wasn't the ALT FIELD but, rather, the OV breaker). He contacted Bob directly and (credit to Bob's memory) Bob remembered (1) they tackled the problem once before and (2) the fix! Seems that they installed a capacitor behind the panel many moons ago to take care of the CB popping problem. Martin recently found a bag of money and bought a bunch of "new & improved" stuff for his Europa panel... but said he forgot to buy a "new & improved" capacitor so the problem is back. Brings up a good question for Bob -- is Martin's issue caused by using an old OV design or are there circumstances where we might need to upgrade that 22 uFD capacitor in the "roll-your-own" schematic? D ---------- Ken wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> > > Is there overvoltage protection and are you certain there are no loose > connections? > No one commented but I posted a situation a couple of weeks ago where I > had a loose connection to a relay that when wiggled would apparently > trigger the overvoltage crowbar and pop the breaker, even without the > engine running. > Ken > > D Wysong wrote: > > >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com> >> >>Here's another, Bob! >> >>--> Europa-List message posted by: MJKTuck@cs.com >> >>Hi Folks, >> >>The last two or three times I have gone flying I have experienced a problem >>with the 5A ALT FIELD circuit breaker popping. The solution at first seemed >>easy just push it back in and all is well. It occurs usually at start up soon >>after I turn on the radio panel circuit. >> >>A couple of flights ago it popped a couple more times in the cruise and I >>reset it with no further problems. >> >>Yesterday however it popped quite a number of times (5 or 6) and only settled >>down after I had turned the radio master off and back on again. I don't see >>how turning the radios off would affect the ALT circuit breaker except I >>suppose they use the most load. >> >>Looking at the circuit the breaker is located between output C on the voltage >>regulator and the main power bus (and thus the battery positive). Very >>simple. >> >>The only thing I can think of is that the voltage regulator is spiking at >>more than 5 amps until it 'warms up' or reaches some kind of battery charged >>point after the battery has been used after start (although the engine typically >>fires after just a few turns). >> >>Any ideas and/or solutions as to what the problem might be would be >>appreciated. I would like to trouble shoot before replacing the >>regulator but do not >>want to remove the panel unless I really have to. >> >>P.S I usually turn on (both) the split master/alt switch - perhaps I should >>only turn on the alternator after engine start? I have close to 200 hours >>flying time on the aircraft so again this is a doubtful cause. >> >>Regards, >>Martin Tuck >>Europa N152MT >>Wichita, Kansas >> >> > > > > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 03:41:15 PM PST US
    From: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Engine ground
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net> Is there an "ideal" place to attach the grounding strap to an O-360? Will there be galvanic corrosion from attaching a copper strap to an iron engine & steel engine mount?


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:06:14 PM PST US
    From: "Hotmail" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Wire Book Samples for AeroElectric Weekend Seminars
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hotmail" <mbanus@hotmail.com> Bob, Sometime in the past I found these files on you website. But can't seam to find them again. Would you give me the link? TIA Mark Banus


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:14:50 PM PST US
    From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
    Subject: Re: Engine ground
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net> Hi John, On the rear right hand side of the engine you will find a hole (5/16" I believe) above and just an inch or so inboard of the lower engine mount. The hole is drilled in the casting and is commonly used for the ground strap. Clean the surface down to bare aluminium apply your favourite corrosion protection, grease, sealant ,paint etc. Install the ground strap being sure to use star washers both ends with a mechanical self locking nut touqued accordingly and carry on building.{[:-) If at all present, galvanic corrosion should not be any more pronounced at this location than any other area of the aicraft. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Engine ground > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Swartout" > <jgswartout@earthlink.net> > > Is there an "ideal" place to attach the grounding strap to an O-360? > Will there be galvanic corrosion from attaching a copper strap to an > iron engine & steel engine mount? > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:28:49 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> Weekend Seminars
    Subject: Re: Wire Book Samples for AeroElectric
    Weekend Seminars --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> Weekend Seminars At 10:04 PM 6/15/2005 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hotmail" <mbanus@hotmail.com> > >Bob, > > Sometime in the past I found these files on you website. But can't > seam to find them again. Would you give me the link? I'm reorganizing. See http://aeroelectric.com/PPS Bob . . .


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:03:51 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> Problem?
    Subject: Re: Fwd: Europa-List: Voltage Regulator
    Problem? --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> Problem? At 10:19 AM 6/15/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com> > >Martin's CB label was wrong (wasn't the ALT FIELD but, rather, the OV >breaker). He contacted Bob directly and (credit to Bob's memory) Bob >remembered (1) they tackled the problem once before and (2) the fix! > >Seems that they installed a capacitor behind the panel many moons ago to >take care of the CB popping problem. Martin recently found a bag of >money and bought a bunch of "new & improved" stuff for his Europa >panel... but said he forgot to buy a "new & improved" capacitor so the >problem is back. > >Brings up a good question for Bob -- is Martin's issue caused by using >an old OV design or are there circumstances where we might need to >upgrade that 22 uFD capacitor in the "roll-your-own" schematic? Don't know. Martin works at RAC where I do and he called me about this a few days ago. I don't know what the rev-level his ov module is. Martin's recollection of the nit that was upsetting his ovm was different than mine but I do recall that we fixed his problem simply before I left that morning. We're doing some experiments to see what the new antagonist is and will report our findings to the list as they become available. Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 09:10:20 PM PST US
    From: Kevin Hester <kevinh-unfiltered@sneakyfrog.com>
    Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 06/14/05
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Hester <kevinh-unfiltered@sneakyfrog.com> Hi ya'll, Please - o please - Fellow builders: Does someone have a PDF of the Garmin GTX 330 installation manual they can email me? It seems that Garmin tries to tightly control the distribution of these documents, but I'd like to understand how the plane I've built is wired... ;-) I'll happily pass it on as needed. Kevin RV-7A - DAR comes first week of July!


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:17:46 PM PST US
    From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
    Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 06/14/05
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com> On 06/15 9:09, Kevin Hester wrote: > Does someone have a PDF of the Garmin GTX 330 installation manual they can email me? It seems that Garmin tries to tightly control the distribution of these documents, but I'd like to understand how the plane I've built is wired... ;-) http://www.rv7-a.com/manuals.htm -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com




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