Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:31 AM - Re: Electronic-HSI? (Malcolm Thomson)
2. 08:05 AM - Re: Fadec installation, what architecture? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:08 AM - Switch Fences (Bruce Niles)
4. 12:44 PM - Re: Switch Fences (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 01:25 PM - Re: Re: Firewall penetration (big picture) (Guy Buchanan)
6. 05:26 PM - 24v starter 14 volt system drawing ( Bob's) (james.k.glindemann@exxonmobil.com)
7. 05:32 PM - Need help with GM external regulator (John Allen)
8. 06:39 PM - Re: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:39 PM - Re: Selective Radio Reception (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 07:39 PM - Re: Help - low voltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:02 PM - Re: Selective Radio Reception (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Malcolm Thomson" <mthomson@showmeproductions.com>
Does the GRT have a real HSI (all analog wires for the resolver and flags)?
BMA just added this to the G3 so it can interface to just about any radio.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck
Jensen
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electronic-HSI?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen"
--> <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Paul,
I have a dual GRT EFIS and have no criticism of it at all. I fly IFR with
it and it has been rock-solid since initial use 100+ hours ago (though I
have a Mid-Continent backup AI just in case on the all electric panel).
The resolution of the GRT HSI is not dazzling, but it is accurate and easy
to use. GRT has a reputation of being a solid company that is easy to deal
with. BMs unit may be the equal of the GRT, but I'm not sure the company
is? I hear/see many more favorable things about GRT than BM, but everyone's
results may vary.
You may want to monitor GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com to catch a flavor of some
the users comments and questions. In short, there is probably nothing wrong
with the BM Lite, but you can't go wrong with the GRT HS 1 series.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
psiegel@fuse.net
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electronic-HSI?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <psiegel@fuse.net>
I'm in the final stages of laying out the panel for a kitbuilt aircraft.
I'd like to go with an elctronic horizontal situation indicator.
Then King KI-825 and Sandel SN3500 are just too ex$pensive!
But, either the Blue Mountain EFIS Lite-G3 or the Grand Rapids EFIS Horizon
Series 1 could work.
Does anyone have any first hand experience wiring up and using either of
these units? PLEASE help me with some feedback!
Paul Siegel
--
--
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fadec installation, what architecture? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:23 AM 6/27/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Aart van't Veld"
><avtveld@tiscali.nl>
>
>I would really appreciate feedback from you guys on the wiring/architecture
>of my Fadec system. The basics of my installation and wiring situation are:
>
>- All electric airplane
>
>- Flying an experimental in Europe. Therefore no IFR/IMC, no night VFR.
>
>- 60A B&C main alternator
>
>- One main battery(Odyssey PC680)
>
>- One small backup battery, comes with the Fadec installation and is
>dedicated to power the backup Fadec #2 bus only (Aerosance states that it is
>more than enough for one hour of powering the Fadec system. The Fadec system
>draws 5,5 amps)
>
>- One SD8 backup alternator
Aart,
I'm working on a response to this . . . but it's going to take
some time. You raise some good questions for which I don't want
to hip-shoot an answer.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Niles" <bniles@cfl.rr.com>
I have a limited quantity of switch fences. I have two sizes:
1 3/16 X 3/4H X 3/16D
1 13/32 X 1 1/16H X 5/32D w/plastic bases
They will be first-come-first-served and are $5.50 a pair including shipping
and handling in the USA. Send me a check and I'll forward them to you.
I will try to post a photo in the aeroelectric photo share list.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Switch Fences |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 12:07 PM 6/27/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Niles" <bniles@cfl.rr.com>
>
>I have a limited quantity of switch fences. I have two sizes:
>
>1 3/16 X 3/4H X 3/16D
>1 13/32 X 1 1/16H X 5/32D w/plastic bases
>
>They will be first-come-first-served and are $5.50 a pair including shipping
>and handling in the USA. Send me a check and I'll forward them to you.
>
>I will try to post a photo in the aeroelectric photo share list.
Send me the photo direct and I'll publish it in the Pictures
directory on AeroElectric.com
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration (big picture) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 03:44 PM 6/26/2005, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>
>What about the fiberglass cowl about a foot and a half behind the plexi
>windscreen?
I am currently agonizing over this with my 2-stroke Kitfox IV.
I've got two plastic oil reservoirs in the engine compartment, one is cup
sized and the other two quart. If I wanted to be really safe I guess I'd
have to remote these aft of the firewall, which is definitely non-standard
for 2 stroke Kitfoxes. Otherwise I guess I should plan on any engine fire
being truly spectacular. Therefore I should seal the firewall completely
and line the fiberglass cowling with fiberfrax. (I think that's what the
shiny adhesive heat shield material is called.) I've got other problems
too, such as all the fuel lines connections being hose barb with hose clamp
and therefore impossible to completely fire shield. Oh well...
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | 24v starter 14 volt system drawing ( Bob's) |
14, 2004) at 06/27/2005 07:25:06 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: james.k.glindemann@exxonmobil.com
I think the power for the K1 relay should come from the battery side
terminal
Jim G.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Need help with GM external regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Allen" <goldcare2@comcast.net>
I need the pin-outs for a 4 terminals mid 70 GM external regulator. It has terminals
lettered F,2,3,&4. The best I can tell is: #4 is for the source 12v from
the ignition switch, #3 is the sense lead, F is the negative field rotor, and
#2 is the positive field rotor. Any help with this is most appreciated. J. Allen
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 11:32 AM 6/28/2005 +1100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: james.k.glindemann@exxonmobil.com
>
>I think the power for the K1 relay should come from the battery side
>terminal
>
>Jim G.
You are correct my friend. Thank you! I've revised
and published Revision -C- at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Engine/Starter/24V_Starter_14V_System.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Selective Radio Reception |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 11:07 PM 6/13/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 06/13/2005 6:45:35 PM Central Standard Time,
>BigD@DaveMorris.com writes:
>How bent is the antenna? Do the other 2 aircraft have horizontal or
>vertical antennas? Have you tried hooking up a different antenna to the
>radio?
> >>>
>
>My antenna is one of those $20-25 jobs from ACS (couldn't find in online
>catalog)- it's a simple metal rod, maybe 1/8" dia with threads on one end to
>attach the lead and bushing, runs through that insulating bushing and is
>bent about
>40 degrees from vertical maybe 2" after it exits the fuse. Located about 6"
>forward of the rear spar, offset about 6" to pilot's side of
>centerline. Coax
>sheild is grounded to a bent-up corner of the doubler plate, about 2" from
>antenna hole. Doubler is maybe 4x6", riveted to inside of skin.
>
>The other RV driver had a really thin older antenna that appeared to have
>seen better days, and recently replaced it with a used Comant style (not
>sure of
>brand, but it has the fairing at the base) and I could hear him a little
>better, but still nowhere as well as almost any other radio, unicom base,
>tower or
>a/c within at least 30 miles. The Cherokee trainer has a really old radio,
>but the person flying it that day did say he wasn't familiar with other
>planes
>not hearing him. No idea what antenna arrangement is like on that plane.
>
>I hesitate to start experimenting with other antennas as my normal reception
>picks up pattern traffic from airports 30-40 miles away (and they report
>hearing me fine) as soon as I climb to pattern altitude, just not these
>two planes.
Antennas will not be a contributor to selective reception except where
the performance of an antenna is so poor that nobody hears the radio
that talks or listens over it.
I am more inclined to consider differences in receiver bandwidth and
accuracy of the frequency control of transmitters that are difficult
to hear. It sounds as if the offending transmitters may be just enough
off-center that a receiver with accurately controlled and perhaps
narrower bandwidth in the last amplifier stages is not able to
demodulate the off-frequency transmitter.
I'd get a VHF frequency meter (counter) and measure the transmit
frequency (carrier only, no modulation needed) of all the transmitters
being compared. Odds are that the problem children are more departed
from the assigned center frequency than the others.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Help - low voltage |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:30 PM 6/23/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike & Lee Anne Wiebe"
><mwiebe@sympatico.ca>
>
>Well folks, time to draw on the collective wisdom of the masses.again..
>
>Sorry, the info is sketchy so far, but I just got home from the airport
>and had to vent somewhere. We changed out the battery in our Sequoia
>Falco, figuring that after three years, the weak starting must be some
>good old fashioned battery aging. Initial start was very good, with
>high charging amperage (Bob, further to your conversation with my dad
>about the battery, I'll confirm that we read alternator amperage, not
>battery amperage), about 25 amps. The new battery, an Oddessy P680, was
>stolen from our new project, and was a little run down from various
>bench activities, so this seems OK. It settled into a steady state draw
>of about 6 amps, which has always seemed reasonable, given that we have
>one side electronic ignition, and a full panel of EI electronic
>instrumentation. After one enroute stop, we started for home near dusk.
>
>
>During operation with strobes, I noticed that the backlights on much of
>the panel instrumentation was flickering. After a little
>troubleshooting (I stress little - it was getting dark, and this was an
>ELECTRICAL problem..so I landed quickly), I know the following:
>
>System voltage seemed to vary between 14 and about 11.5, based on load.
>Worst culprit appeared to be strobes. Even running lights, and two big
>landing lights didn't cause the same voltage drop as the strobes. So I
>suspect I'll take the strobes out of the equation just to be sure. But
>it seems funny to me that with the engine running strong that the
>voltage would vary very much at all! Through all of this, the amperage
>draw seemed normal for the given load being called for. Alternator is
>obviously putting something out, but I wonder about consistency. At
>one point I turned on a bunch of stuff quickly, just to create load, and
>the engine monitor reset - something it will do when the starter inrush
>current draws the system down. I would have thought that turning on a
>bunch of lights quickly would not have caused that much of an effect,
>though I've never tried to do that before.
>
>System is a B&C 60A alternator and the B&C/Knuckolls Voltage regulator.
>All my measuring was done on panel instrumentation, which is an
>Electronics International UBG-16 graphic engine monitor with amperage
>option. Before shutting down, I advanced the RPM to test for headset
>whine. There is a slight whine that changes with RPM, but its so very
>subtle that it may have been there forever and me not notice it.
>
>So now I'm going to read my Aeroelectric Connection for more advice. In
>the meantime, any knowledgeable opinions are appreciated. As is any
>advice on how to isolate and troubleshoot the problem, since it seems
>like Saturday is going to be a "fixing, not flying" day, once again.
The first things you need to do is extend a field sensing wire
into the cockpit. See Figure Z-23. If you have access to an
ANALOG voltmeter (it can be an el-cheapo . . . accuracy doesn't
count here), then use it to monitor field voltage. If not, a
digital will do.
Read through Note 8 of Appendix Z. There you will find a description
of taking measurements and interpreting them to deduce whether it's
an alternator or regulator problem. In other words, if voltage is
low, is the alternator incapable of responding to commands from
the regulator . . . or is the regulator giving bad commands.
Generally speaking, if the field voltage goes UP in spite of
low voltage then RPM is too low, belt is slipping or alternator
is bad. If the alternator seems to be responding properly to
commands it's being given, then you need to explore regulator
and wiring issues.
There's a powerful test tool you can fabricate from a locally
acquired generic Ford regulator fitted with wires and terminals
as shown in:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Ford_Test_Reg.jpg
You can disconnect all ship's wiring but the b-lead and
install this test regulator on the back of the alternator.
Note, you have no control over this system . . . it comes
on line as soon as you fire up the engine. But you can quickly
see if the alternator voltage is correct and whether or
not the alternator will support loads.
If voltage is normal, increase RPM and turn on landing
lights, pitot heat, nav lights, etc and watch the voltage.
If the alternator works, then your problem lies with
the ship's wiring and/or regulator. If the alternator
doesn't support loads, it's time to take the alternator
apart.
If you want to test the alternator at full load, you
can ADD a battery tester like this Harbor Freight
load meter:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/HF91129_4.jpg
Connect load meter across battery terminals.
Leave as much of ship's loads OFF and while observing
bus voltage during elevated RPM operation, carefully
increase load tester to 40-60 amps (rating of alternator).
You'll have to do this with some degree of care because
the load tester is designed to do testing at MUCH
larger currents . . . however, it provides a compact.
convenient means for loading an alternator up to
its rated output. If your alternator has a loadmeter,
use this instrument to gage when then load-tester
setting is right. The bus should be close to 14v
at 100% load on the alternator.
I've used this technique to trouble shoot many airplanes
and mechanics were amazed that I could tell them EXACTLY
what component needed changed before we removed a single
component from the airplane. Most mechanics troubleshoot
by putting known good components on until the problem
goes away. It's much better to figure out ways to
exercise regulators and alternators to their limits
while still bolted to the airplane.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Selective Radio Reception |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 06/27/2005 8:40:17 PM Central Standard Time,
nuckollsr@cox.net writes:
Odds are that the problem children are more departed
from the assigned center frequency than the others.
>>>>
Thanks Bob- another A-lister responded with similar suspicions- appreciate
the info!
Mark - do not archive
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