---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 06/30/05: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:40 AM - Re: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 (Walter Klatt) 2. 07:24 AM - Re: MicroAir T2000 Transponder & ALT-4 .... (Christopher Stone) 3. 08:50 AM - MicroAir T2000 Transponder & ALT-4 .... (Tom...) 4. 09:04 AM - Re: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 (Dj Merrill) 5. 12:19 PM - Re: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing (Mark & Lisa) 6. 02:10 PM - Re: Start & Battery Circuits on Rotax 582 () 7. 02:59 PM - Re: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 8. 03:06 PM - PTT and Trim Indicator Problem (Charlie Brame) 9. 03:57 PM - Re: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 (Walter Klatt) 10. 04:24 PM - Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem (Richard Reynolds) 11. 04:44 PM - Re: AK-450 ELT Antenna and connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 12. 04:47 PM - Re: DIY Navigation Antenna Questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 13. 06:05 PM - Re: Re: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 14. 06:06 PM - Re: Re: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 15. 06:07 PM - Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem (John Schroeder) 16. 06:15 PM - Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem (John Schroeder) 17. 06:54 PM - Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem (D Wysong) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:40:03 AM PST US From: Walter Klatt Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Klatt Yes, that's the one, and you're right, the clamping bracket had to be replaced for proper ground and solid attachment. This filter is the only one that I have found that solved a transmit noise problem on my Terra 760D. With this filter on the alternator it is clear for 100 miles or more, but without the controllers have trouble hearing me from 6 miles out. Never did have a problem with reception which was always good. Thanks for the tips, and I will check out the links, but still would like to get my hands on this original one, as I know it does work. Walter --- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. > Nuckolls, III" > > At 07:41 PM 6/29/2005 -0700, you wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter > Klatt > > > >Does anyone have one of these collecting dust > >somewhere? Radio Shack used to carry this 40 amp, > 0.5 > >mfd at 50 vdc noise filter, part #272-1085, but > >apparently discontinued it in year 2000. I had one > on > >my plane connected inline to my alternator output, > >and worked fine for several years. However, it then > >vibrated apart, and I replaced it with several > others, > >but none are able to do the job like that old Radio > >Shack one. So, if anyone has one, and is willing to > >part with it, or can tell me where I could find > one, > >please let me know. Thanks. > > Is that the cylindrical capacitor with threaded > male studs on each end and a grounding/mounting > bracket in the middle? > > As I recall, the R-S part had a slip-fit bracket > that didn't hold well. A GOOD connection to the > capacitor case was critical to the filter's > operation. > > Sprague Electronics "Hypass" series devices > are one example of this genre' of filter. One > version is currently offered on Ebay at: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=7275&item=2249061066 > > . . . but is too small for your spplication. > > Surplus sales has a few: > > https://www.surplussales.com/Feedthrus/FTflangeMt.html > > again too small. > > Having said that, I can also offer that filters > on the back of an alternator are generally useful > only for reducing RF interference to low > frequency > nav radios like ADF and Loran. Was this filter > added to address a problem with one of these > radios? > > The seldom provide useful attenuation of audible > alternator whine in audio systems. > > Bob . . . > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:24:14 AM PST US From: Christopher Stone Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: MicroAir T2000 Transponder & ALT-4 .... --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Christopher Stone Tom, I just installed the Microair xponder and Ameriking encoder in a RV-8. How long did you leave the alt encoder on? Most require at least 10 minutes to warm up. Prior to warm up the xponder will display "no altitude". Chris Stone RV-8 x2 Newberg, OR -----Original Message----- From: "Tom..." Subject: AeroElectric-List: MicroAir T2000 Transponder & ALT-4 .... --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom..." Hi, I bought a MicroAir T2000 SFL Transponder and a Stratomaster Maxi Single ALT-4, I finally got around to installing them. I made a cable according to the wiring diagram in the manual that shows these two connected. I installed them into my home built helicopter and when I power them up they both seem to go thru their start up test just fine. But when I go to "Alt Display" on the Transponder it says "NO ALTITUDE". I have removed the unites from my helicopter, buzzed the cable and it is correct. Yes I have the GNDs connected. I have it hooked up on a bench and it says the same thing. When I disconnect the encoder cable the Transponder continues to say the same thing "NO ALT". The Altimeter "seems" to indicate the correct altitude, the VSI portion "seems" to work. I sent the ALT-4 back and they say it checked out fine but just to be 100+% sure they sent me a new unit. Same exact thing. I am 99.999% sure that the cable is done according to the manual, I even had a friend buzz it too. Have ya heard of this before? Do ya have any ideas? Thanks for your time, Tom... ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:50:25 AM PST US From: "Tom..." (by way of Matt Dralle ) Subject: AeroElectric-List: MicroAir T2000 Transponder & ALT-4 .... --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom..." (by way of Matt Dralle ) Hi, I bought a MicroAir T2000 SFL Transponder and a Stratomaster Maxi Single ALT-4, I finally got around to installing them. I made a cable according to the wiring diagram in the manual that shows these two connected. I installed them into my home built helicopter and when I power them up they both seem to go thru their start up test just fine. But when I go to "Alt Display" on the Transponder it says "NO ALTITUDE". I have removed the unites from my helicopter, buzzed the cable and it is correct. Yes I have the GNDs connected. I have it hooked up on a bench and it says the same thing. When I disconnect the encoder cable the Transponder continues to say the same thing "NO ALT". The Altimeter "seems" to indicate the correct altitude, the VSI portion "seems" to work. I sent the ALT-4 back and they say it checked out fine but just to be 100+% sure they sent me a new unit. Same exact thing. I am 99.999% sure that the cable is done according to the manual, I even had a friend buzz it too. Have ya heard of this before? Do ya have any ideas? Thanks for your time, Tom... ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:04:28 AM PST US From: Dj Merrill Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill Walter Klatt wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Klatt > > Does anyone have one of these collecting dust > somewhere? Radio Shack used to carry this 40 amp, 0.5 > mfd at 50 vdc noise filter, part #272-1085, but > apparently discontinued it in year 2000. I had one on Hi Walter, If you don't find a replacement, perhaps you could put some of their smaller ones in parallel. The 10amp ones are still available, I think: and I believe they have a 20 amp version of this as well. Hope this helps, -Dj -- Dj Merrill Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 "TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation" ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 12:19:09 PM PST US From: "Mark & Lisa" Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark & Lisa" Bob, You said: > OOPS . . . I forgot to mention that this drawing is up to Rev -C- > to fix some minor errors and clarify notations. See: Actually, you already had mentioned this a couple of days ago--thanks. Another question (you notice I didn't say "last"): When I switch S1 to the START position, K2 & K5 should open, essentially isolating B2 from the main power bus. When S2 is closed, K4 closes connecting B1-POS to B2-NEG, & also closes K3 applying 24V to the starter & on to ground (completing the series circuit). If I read this correctly, 24V is also available on the output side of K2, but since K2 is open, that's as far as the electrons go. If K2 fails closed, then 24V is also applied to the main bus when S2 is closed; that's bad right? If this is correct, do you think an indicator displaying K2's status is appropriate? My thinking is thus: When I switch S1 to start, I'd like to see a light indicating K2 open before I close S2 (press the start switch). Is my worry bucket too full? Mark & Lisa Sletten Legacy FG N828LM http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 02:10:18 PM PST US From: Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Start & Battery Circuits on Rotax 582 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: 6/30/2005 Hello Bob Harlan, Bob Nuckolls is the great guru of all things electrical when it comes to amateur built aircraft (and many other things electrical as well). He has a magnificent book available entitled "The AeroElectric Connection" and a web site with much great electrical information. In addition he acts as a frequent (and free) contributing consultant to an internet list called the "aeroelectric-list" which is provided by Matt Dralle under the name of Matronics. Many very electrically knowledgeable people and people seeking electrical knowledge like yourself participate on the aeroelectric-list. I suggest that you check out Bob Nuckolls' web site and pose your question to the aeroelectric-list. OC ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Start & Battery Circuits on Rotax 582 > Dear Group > My question is, where do I tap into the system to pull off DC power for my > fuel pump and perhaps a GPS and Radio. > > Although I am not a Pulsar builder, I am on your list because the wing > construction on my original design aircraft was similar to the Pulsar > along with my > engine and my friend Barry West led me to youall. (I, also, am from > Arkansas). > I am at the stage where I am just checking out my wiring circuits berfore > actually testing the starter. I , of course, believe I have the wiring > installed > correctly. The prop is not mounted and no fluids are in the engine yet > (oil > or coolant). I know NOT to try without a load and proper lubricants in > place. > > I have left the wire from the start switch dis-connected from the starter > solenoid so as not to activate the starter. However, I only get power to > my > accessory switches when they are connected to the starter lug on the > starter > switch and holding the starter switch in the spring loaded START position. > I just > want to check my starter circuit and battery buss connections to determine > if > they are correct. > > Question 1: Does the starter solenoid have to be energized to be able to > get > power back to the battery? > Question 2: Can you suggest another way to check my circuits? > > You guys are an invaluable resource. I hope you 582 users can help. > Very Sincerely, > Bob Harlan. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:59:10 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 12:03 PM 6/30/2005 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill > > >Walter Klatt wrote: > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Klatt > > > > Does anyone have one of these collecting dust > > somewhere? Radio Shack used to carry this 40 amp, 0.5 > > mfd at 50 vdc noise filter, part #272-1085, but > > apparently discontinued it in year 2000. I had one on > > >Hi Walter, > If you don't find a replacement, perhaps you >could put some of their smaller ones in parallel. >The 10amp ones are still available, I think: > >and I believe they have a 20 amp version of this as well. These filters as a class had almost zero series inductance. In fact, all the devices I opened up had solid rods that carried through the center of the capacitor . . . The "magic" these devices have to offer is their very low Effective Series Resistance at high frequencies. One can achieve equal or better performance with modern devices like monolythic ceramic capacitors. I built an array of these capacitors up on a scrap of etched circuit board using the fiberglas as structural member and copper foil as a low inductance connection. This was used effectively on a motor but should do as well on an alternator. You can fabricate it with holes spaced so that the copper-clad drops over the b-lead and has a second hole to pick up the same screw you used to mount the original filter. If you can't find a suitable direct replacement, there ARE alternatives. On another note, I'm surprised that you had this kind of noise problem in transmit . . . noise from alternators is much more likely to upset receivers and/or audio systems. I'm wondering if your diode stack isn't damaged or perhaps sub-standard. No way to find out without some pretty good lab equipment. Let's see if we can get your capacitor issue resolved first. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 03:06:12 PM PST US From: Charlie Brame Subject: AeroElectric-List: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Brame Bob, et. al, I seem to remember this problem mentioned previously, but cannot find it in the archives. The Situation: My electric elevator trim system is a Ray Allen T2-10A servo, two stick mounted Ray Allen trim switches, a REL-1 Servo Relay Deck, and a RP3 LED type position indicator. By itself the system works perfectly - the trim runs up and down and indicates correctly. I also have a RP3 LED indicator for the flaps, but its position sensor is not yet hooked up. Consequently, the flaps go up and down, but the indicator indicates full down at all times. Both indicators are wired into my panel lights reostat and both dim appropriately when the reostat is moved from the OFF position. I also have an Apollo SL-60 GPS/Comm and an Apollo MS-10 intercom with PTT buttons on each stick grip. The system transmits and receives like a champ using either PTT button. The TRANSMIT light on the intercom illuminates when transmitting as it should. THE PROBLEM: When pushing either PTT button, both the trim and flap indicators dim and the trim indicator instantly shows full down trim (the actual trim does not move.) Releasing the PTT button causes both indicators to return to normal. Other than the power bus and the common ground point, I can find no area where the two systems meet, cross, or interconnect. I assume the problem is caused by RF interference but I am clueless as to how to find, much less correct, the problem. Any help would be appreciated. Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB San Antonio ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:57:24 PM PST US From: Walter Klatt Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Shack Noise Filter 272-1085 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Klatt My problem is definitely unique, which is why I am being very specific about what I need. I determined this from day 1, and this particular capacitor noise filter is the only thing that I found to work. And again, no problem with reception, strictly noise on the transmit. I tried several other filters including expensive aircraft type ones, but they don't do the job like this one. I don't understand it, but all I know is what works and what doesn't. Walter --- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. > Nuckolls, III" > > At 12:03 PM 6/30/2005 -0400, you wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill > > > > > > >Walter Klatt wrote: > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter > Klatt > > > > > > Does anyone have one of these collecting dust > > > somewhere? Radio Shack used to carry this 40 > amp, 0.5 > > > mfd at 50 vdc noise filter, part #272-1085, but > > > apparently discontinued it in year 2000. I had > one on > > > > > >Hi Walter, > > If you don't find a replacement, perhaps > you > >could put some of their smaller ones in parallel. > >The 10amp ones are still available, I think: > > > >and I believe they have a 20 amp version of this as > well. > > > These filters as a class had almost zero > series inductance. In fact, all the devices > I opened up had solid rods that carried through > the center of the capacitor . . . > > The "magic" these devices have to offer is > their very low Effective Series Resistance > at high frequencies. One can achieve equal > or better performance with modern devices like > monolythic ceramic capacitors. I built an array > of these capacitors up on a scrap of etched > circuit > board using the fiberglas as structural member > and copper foil as a low inductance connection. > This was used effectively on a motor but should > do as well on an alternator. You can fabricate > it with holes spaced so that the copper-clad > drops over the b-lead and has a second hole > to pick up the same screw you used to mount the > original filter. > > If you can't find a suitable direct replacement, > there ARE alternatives. > > On another note, I'm surprised that you had this > kind of noise problem in transmit . . . noise > from alternators is much more likely to upset > receivers and/or audio systems. I'm wondering > if your diode stack isn't damaged or perhaps > sub-standard. No way to find out without some > pretty good lab equipment. Let's see if we can > get your capacitor issue resolved first. > > Bob . . . > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > > > > Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:24:20 PM PST US From: Richard Reynolds Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds I know its a pain, but I wired my G5 stick with separate grounds for the PPT, Trims (relay decks & LEDs), and Auto Pilot. It works!! Richard Reynolds Norfolk, VA RV-6A On Jun 30, 2005, at 6:02 PM, Charlie Brame wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Brame > > > Bob, et. al, > > I seem to remember this problem mentioned previously, but cannot > find it > in the archives. > > The Situation: My electric elevator trim system is a Ray Allen T2-10A > servo, two stick mounted Ray Allen trim switches, a REL-1 Servo Relay > Deck, and a RP3 LED type position indicator. By itself the system > works > perfectly - the trim runs up and down and indicates correctly. I also > have a RP3 LED indicator for the flaps, but its position sensor is not > yet hooked up. Consequently, the flaps go up and down, but the > indicator > indicates full down at all times. Both indicators are wired into my > panel lights reostat and both dim appropriately when the reostat is > moved from the OFF position. > > I also have an Apollo SL-60 GPS/Comm and an Apollo MS-10 intercom with > PTT buttons on each stick grip. The system transmits and receives > like a > champ using either PTT button. The TRANSMIT light on the intercom > illuminates when transmitting as it should. > > THE PROBLEM: When pushing either PTT button, both the trim and flap > indicators dim and the trim indicator instantly shows full down trim > (the actual trim does not move.) Releasing the PTT button causes both > indicators to return to normal. > > Other than the power bus and the common ground point, I can find no > area > where the two systems meet, cross, or interconnect. I assume the > problem > is caused by RF interference but I am clueless as to how to find, much > less correct, the problem. > > Any help would be appreciated. > > Charlie Brame > RV-6A N11CB > San Antonio > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 04:44:38 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: AK-450 ELT Antenna and connection --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 11:30 AM 3/21/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" > > >Reading on the install manual for AK-450 ELT, the antenna requires at >least a 36 inch >ground plane. >Any ideas how I can install a ELT antenna on the inside of Europa XS >Monowheel? Use an internal dipole antenna glued to inside surface of fuselage behind seats. Foil antennas are okay. Suggest you get an antenna analyzer to trim the installed antenna for optimum SWR at 121.5 >Second question is about the remote panel. It uses a telephone jack, that >i understand >can be troublesome. Is it worth it at install time to get rid of the >telephone jack >and hardwire to remote, and install a nice removable connector at the unit? Don't know why these should be troublesome. I'd encourage you to get the right tool for stripping the wire and installing the connector on the wire. Radio Shack has one for about $15. Sorry to take so long to get back to you. Suggest you join AeroElectric list for such questions. More folks will be available to answer and I'm less likely to push it off in a corner. Bob .. . ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 04:47:24 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DIY Navigation Antenna Questions --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 04:06 PM 3/28/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: > >Bob, > Figure 13-12 on page 13-16 of the Aeroelectric Connection book shows a > drawing for making your own Navigation antenna. One section of this > antenna calls for a 90 degree bend in that section of 0.025" aluminum. > The section's length is called out as "convenient L", which I construe to > mean a convenient length. The width is called out as aluminum sheet angle > 0.5" X 1.5". I construe this to mean that the aluminum should be 1.5" > wide on it's horizontal surface and 0.5" on it's vertical (bent) surface. > Are my assumptions correct? Are there any recommended minimum or maximum > lengths for this section of angle? Is the 90 degree bend in this section > to achieve rigidity? Or, is this section of the antenna to be fastened to > the outboard wing rib? Please advise. Your assumptions are correct. This section can be any length because it's grounded to the tip rib. The opposite element needs to be optimized with an antenna analyzer if possible. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:05:37 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RE: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 02:17 PM 6/30/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark & Lisa" > >Bob, > >You said: > > > OOPS . . . I forgot to mention that this drawing is up to Rev -C- > > to fix some minor errors and clarify notations. See: > >Actually, you already had mentioned this a couple of days ago--thanks. > >Another question (you notice I didn't say "last"): > >When I switch S1 to the START position, K2 & K5 should open, essentially >isolating B2 from the main power bus. When S2 is closed, K4 closes >connecting B1-POS to B2-NEG, & also closes K3 applying 24V to the starter & >on to ground (completing the series circuit). If I read this correctly, 24V >is also available on the output side of K2, but since K2 is open, that's as >far as the electrons go. If K2 fails closed, then 24V is also applied to >the main bus when S2 is closed; that's bad right? If this is correct, do >you think an indicator displaying K2's status is appropriate? > >My thinking is thus: When I switch S1 to start, I'd like to see a light >indicating K2 open before I close S2 (press the start switch). Is my worry >bucket too full? I'd considered that. Contactors that do the most 'sticking' are starter contactors . . . battery contactors are likely to go high resistance but only then if used to SWITCH heavy loads. Battery contactors are generally opened and closed with very benign loads. Should K2 be shut for any reason, attempting a start would put a dead short on B2 (assuming the battery contactor K1 was closed too). I think the risks are low but there's a little fault detection scheme I've used many times that has been added to the drawing at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Engine/Starter/24V_Starter_14V_System.pdf A hand full of resistors and a couple of LEDS (need two in order to sense both stuck-hi and stuck-lo faults) will bias up the aux battery and 4 contactors to 1/2 of battery voltage. When you place S1 to START and before pressing S2, both LEDs should be dark. If ANY contactor is stuck, you'll get a warning light before S2 is depressed. Of course, the "stuck-lo" light will illuminate while you are cranking but will go out when the switch is released. Placing S1 back in NORMAL will remove power from the votlage divider and close K5 which will keep the lights dark during normal operations. R4 needs to be right at the connection to K4 . . . or you can eliminate R4 entirely and replace with a 1-3 amp in-line fuse. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 06:06:12 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RE: 24v starter 14 volt system drawing --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >My thinking is thus: When I switch S1 to start, I'd like to see a light >indicating K2 open before I close S2 (press the start switch). Is my worry >bucket too full? P.S. I took out one of the current limiters. I couldn't see a fault mode that would blow only the limiter in series with B2. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 06:07:00 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem From: "John Schroeder" --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 17:02:04 -0500, Charlie Brame wrote: > Both indicators are wired into my panel lights reostat and both dim > appropriately when the reostat is > moved from the OFF position. Charlie - We have the same problem with our flap, yaw & pitch trim indicators. They dim and go full to one side or the other when we transmit. So far, we do not seem to have any spurious input to the trim motors themselves. One thing that you may be doing wrong is that you have the indicators being dimmed by a dimmer. I believe the Ray Allen installation diagrams show a direct connection from a light switch to the trim indicators, such that it takes 12 volts directly to dim the circuits. There is also only one dim position. I thought this was a real stupid way to have dimming on the indicators (they really need dimming), so I called Ray Allen. They said that you should not connect their indicators to a dimmer. Having said this, I still think they have a dumb system, so please check with them to verify again what they told me. Let me know what they say. I would also be interested in what they recommend to keep the radio from causing the lights to dim and move. Cheers, John > THE PROBLEM: When pushing either PTT button, both the trim and flap > indicators dim and the trim indicator instantly shows full > down > trim (the actual trim does not move.) Releasing the PTT button causes > both indicators to return to normal. Other than the > power bus and > the common ground point, I can find no area where the two systems meet, > cross, or interconnect. I assume the > problem is caused by RF > interference but I am clueless as to how to find, much less correct, the > problem. -- ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:15:44 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem From: "John Schroeder" --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" Richard - So did we. And we still have the problem. John On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 19:23:12 -0400, Richard Reynolds wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds > > > I know its a pain, but I wired my G5 stick with separate grounds for > the PPT, Trims (relay decks & LEDs), and Auto Pilot. It works!! > > Richard Reynolds > Norfolk, VA RV-6A > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:54:22 PM PST US From: D Wysong Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong I believe the Europa guys 'solved' this problem a few months ago. You might look at their archive to see if you can scare up any helpful info. D