Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:12 AM - Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? 1.30 (Jim Wickert)
2. 06:35 AM - GPS Under IFR ()
3. 06:46 AM - Split Pin Connectors? ()
4. 06:53 AM - (Charlie England)
5. 08:49 AM - Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? (Paul McAllister)
6. 08:57 AM - Re: USB Interfaces (Paul McAllister)
7. 09:41 AM - Re: Split Pin Connectors? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 09:53 AM - Re: Extra Diode in Z-14 (rev K) diagram (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 09:55 AM - Re: Split Pin Connectors? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
10. 10:07 AM - Re: lockwashers on Odyssey battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 10:35 AM - "Fixing" a problem by repositioning a coax. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 11:25 AM - Diagnostic voltages for Alternator (Rick Fogerson)
13. 11:31 AM - Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? ()
14. 01:29 PM - Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem (D Wysong)
15. 01:47 PM - Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem From: "John Schroeder" (D Wysong)
16. 05:01 PM - Dimmers & LED Indicators (r falstad)
17. 05:28 PM - Re: Sources for USB GPS at econ costs! (Jim Wickert)
18. 05:50 PM - Re: Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? (Charlie England)
19. 05:56 PM - Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators (chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org)
20. 06:21 PM - Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators (Dave Morris \)
21. 06:53 PM - Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators (John D. Heath)
22. 07:07 PM - Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators (chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org)
23. 07:26 PM - Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators (chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org)
24. 07:35 PM - Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators (Dave Morris \)
25. 10:06 PM - Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? 1.30 |
UNDISC_RECIPS Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Wickert <jimw_btg@earthlink.net>
Charlie,
I have not at this time used it but I have a unit that is supplied by Mountain
Scope, PCavionics that is a USB connect and they also have a Bluetooth as well.
Check it out on thier site.
Jim Wickert
Vision #159
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
USB cable with an iPaq?
Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
lagniappe.
I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
Avionics-List message previously posted by: "Doug Rozendaal"
<dougr@petroblend.com>
> I am an RV guy and have a question. Can an Argus 5000 be used as the sole
> indicator for an IFR
> GPS? Is an additional annunciator required? How would OBS mode work?
> Thanks Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
7/4/2005
Hello Doug, If you are going to be flying your aircraft IFR the wording of
your Operating Limitations and the FAA's interpretation of that wording is
that your aircraft must comply with the instrument and equipment
requirements of FAR Sec. 91.205.
If you read that entire Section carefully, paying particular attention to
sub paragraph (d) (2), that should answer your question regarding the
regulatory requirement for an additional annuciator in your amateur built
experimental airplane.
Guidance on GPS operations under IFR is available in paragraph 1-1-20 of the
Aeronautical Information Manual.
OC
Message 3
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Subject: | Split Pin Connectors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
7/4/2005
Hello Experts and a Happy Independence Day to you, My friend took his
Beechcraft Sierra to an avionics shop because his autopilot was not working
when he retrieved the airplane from its annual inspection.
The avionics shop gave him a tale of woe plus big $$$$$ about needing to
replace a bunch of "split pin connectors" in the autopilot wiring system.
I am not familiar with "split pin connectors". Can anyone please educate me?
Thanks.
OC
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Excellent! Here's the link to their usb powered gps engine:
http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/usb_gps_specs.jsp
This means that it's do-able with pretty much any usb gps, some
connectors & soldering skills.
Thanks, Jim.
Charlie
Jim Wickert wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Wickert <jimw_btg@earthlink.net>
>
>Charlie,
>
>I have not at this time used it but I have a unit that is supplied by Mountain
Scope, PCavionics that is a USB connect and they also have a Bluetooth as well.
Check it out on thier site.
>
>Jim Wickert
>Vision #159
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>To: undisclosed-recipients:;
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
>Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
>USB cable with an iPaq?
>
>Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
>talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
>deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
>lagniappe.
>
>I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi Charlie,
I recently set up Airgator on my Toshiba e800 and I am quite impressed with
the product, but what impressed my more though was their willingness of the
vendor to work with me. I didn't use any of his standard cabling but he
spent time explaining what I needed and providing "hard to get" plugs.
If you thinking of setting something up then they would be worth a call (+1
914 666 5656 ) . The guy I spoke to was Amir.
Paul
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
> USB cable with an iPaq?
>
> Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
> talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
> deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
> lagniappe.
>
> I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: USB Interfaces |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi Frank,
I sounds like you have had some experience with USB interfaces...... do you
have nay references that you can point me to so I can educate myself ?
Thanks, Paul
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank & Dorothy" <frankvdh@xtra.co.nz>
> USB is a complicated beast... it provides +5V power as well as
> high-speed serial comms. The +5V supply is regulated and
> current-controlled... you can short out the red & black wires on a USB
> cable and nothing bad will happen. There's rules for discovering new
> devices when they connect, and for sharing the bandwidth. All this means
> that it's not easy to add USB to an existing device, and practically
> impossible to roll-your-own.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Split Pin Connectors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:45 AM 7/4/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
>7/4/2005
>
>Hello Experts and a Happy Independence Day to you, My friend took his
>Beechcraft Sierra to an avionics shop because his autopilot was not working
>when he retrieved the airplane from its annual inspection.
>
>The avionics shop gave him a tale of woe plus big $$$$$ about needing to
>replace a bunch of "split pin connectors" in the autopilot wiring system.
>
>I am not familiar with "split pin connectors". Can anyone please educate me?
>Thanks.
. . . hmmmm . . . a very non-descriptive nomenclature.
He needs to ask for a part number and the name of the
supplier that uses that part number. To ice the cake,
if the avionics guy can supply just one example pin . . .
new, used, already installed on a piece of wire, what
ever.
You can do all the google searches you want on "split
pin" and have near zero chance of identifying this
part.
What's the brand and model number of the autopilot?
One can often deduce the connector technology by knowing
who made the system. Manufacturers often have a stable
of connectors-of-choice. Getting a peek at the installation/
maintenance manual for the autopilot may help. Was the
autopilot installed as a Beechcraft option? If so, I
may have access to data in the company archives that
would help.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Extra Diode in Z-14 (rev K) diagram |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 12:11 PM 7/2/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bernard Despins
><bdespins@telusplanet.net>
>
>I was looking at diagram Z-14 (revision K) and noticed the label
><>"1N5400" just to the left of the Aux Battery Contactor. It is next to
>the label for the ANL30, but as far as I can tell, it shouldn't be
><>there. The spike catching diode for the contactor is on the
>right. Can someone confirm this?
Correct. This is an artifact of some editing activity.
A revision "L" drawing has been posted to:
http://aeroelectric.com/PPS
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Split Pin Connectors? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
Good Morning Bob,
Just as a WAG, I wonder if the techie was referring to the Little Blue Plugs
used by Century for many of their autopilot connections a few years ago?
They have stamped receptor pins rather than solid ones that I guess could be
referred to as a split pin. As you know, those little buggers tend to
weaken over the years and often make poor contact. The pins themselves are fairly
easy to clean and, by the use of a fine pick to bend the female contacts
back into line, they can be tightened.
Sounds worse than it really is!
The bigger problem is to get at the plugs because they are usually all bound
up in major wire bundles.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 7/4/2005 11:43:11 A.M. Central Standard Time,
nuckollsr@cox.net writes:
What's the brand and model number of the autopilot?
One can often deduce the connector technology by knowing
who made the system. Manufacturers often have a stable
of connectors-of-choice. Getting a peek at the installation/
maintenance manual for the autopilot may help. Was the
autopilot installed as a Beechcraft option? If so, I
may have access to data in the company archives that
would help.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: lockwashers on Odyssey battery |
terminals?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
terminals?
At 01:29 AM 7/2/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Ok, ignorant question....does anybody see a need to add a lockwasher to
>the battery terminal bolts? My PC-680 battery just came with a plain
>washer for each bolt, but no lockwasher. Seems like everything else on
>an airplane uses some sort of lockwasher, cotter pin, or self locking
>nut, so I'm wondering if this is an exception? No point in adding it if
>it ain't needed though....
Lockwashers are a real mixed bag . . . they're better than nothing
but a whole lot less than a real thread-locking technology used
to insure integrity of the joint.
The "need" is very non-quantified. Battery terminals on my
van get checked for torque every time I service anything under
the hood . . . and more often than not, they move a bit under
my very un-calibrated torque force which suggests that they
have loosened since last tightening.
I have considered thread locking these fasteners but I have
some questions as to the mechanism that produces loosening.
The threaded sockets on the battery are lead-alloy, did the
fastener loosen because the lead moved? If so, tread locking
will not fix it. The threads are in a horizontal plane and
heavy cables come off the battery at right angles to that
plane such that vertical vibration puts torque moments on
the fastener. Hmmm . . . thread locking would work here quite
nicely.
As soon as I figure out which phenomenon I'm going to
experiment with, I'll let you all know what I find out.
In the mean time, the best anyone is likely to offer in
answer to your question will be something like, "I (did/didn't)
use lockwashers on my (fill in brand and part number) battery
and I (have/haven't) had problems with loosening.
The always right answer is thread lock the joint. There
are commercial goops and goos from Locktite, Formagasket
and others but simply coating the first few threads of
your bolt with E-6000 cement will go a long way toward
keeping the fastener from ROTATING. I believe that this
battery uses brass inserts so concerns for soft material
don't apply. E-6000 will add some insurance against
movement but will not prevent normal removal/replacement
of the fastener for maintenance.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | "Fixing" a problem by repositioning a coax. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
While we were in Denver, I noticed an item from a List member
wherein he related someone's suggestion that repositioning
antenna coax(es) in his airplane with respect to other wiring
might/would relieve some kind of interference problems.
I don't have that note in front of me but it's easy to reply
to in generic fashion.
Quality coaxial cable (and RG400 or RG142 ARE indeed quality
cables) does not pick up outside noises nor does it emit
noises into other systems as long as it's properly installed
and operated. This means that the standing wave ratio on the
feedline is low and that it's properly terminated at each
end.
EVERY time I've encountered a situation where coax positioning
might have made a difference (perhaps two or three times in 40 years) the
REAL root cause of interference was a improperly applied connector
or a de-mated connector at one end of that coax.
In all cases, the interference problem was investigated by
inspection of the connectors combined with a look at electrical
quality of the antenna system using some form of antenna
analyzer.
There is no value added by segregating coax feedlines
from other aircraft wiring . . . in fact, I'll suggest that
there is value in keeping them together. If one provided sufficient
isolation to prevent a malfunctioning feedline from interfering
with other systems, the problem may go unnoticed. Bundle them
all up together so that your intercom, nav receiver, etc can
"sniff" for any RF that exists on the OUTSIDE of the coax
and offer timely notification so that it can be investigated
and fixed.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------------------
< Throughout history, poverty is the normal condition >
< of man. Advances which permit this norm to be >
< exceeded -- here and there, now and then -- are the >
< work of an extremely small minority, frequently >
< despised, often condemned, and almost always opposed >
< by all right-thinking people. Whenever this tiny >
< minority is kept from creating, or (as sometimes >
< happens) is driven out of a society, the people >
< then slip back into abject poverty. >
< >
< This is known as "bad luck". >
< -Lazarus Long- >
<------------------------------------------------------>
http://www.aeroelectric.com
Message 12
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Subject: | Diagnostic voltages for Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi Bob,
I put a jack in my airplane a la Page Z-6 for alternator diagnostics. I have B&C's
alternator and voltage regulator. Could I get some numbers/ranges to the
voltages for the descriptive words in the following paragraphs:
Paragraph (a) alt output is zero when the bus voltage is ______?
Paragraph (e) If the field voltage is high_____? and does not drop significantly_____?
when engine rpm increases but bus voltage seems normal under light load
and sags under heavy loads....
What would be the voltage regulators normal set point____?
Thanks Bob and have a great 4th of July,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 done, making POH
Boise, ID
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Not sure what a GPS "engine is" but if you are talking about a GPS receiver, power
jack and plug (that goes into the bottom of a iPaq) Yes these Y-cables work
great. As far as Comp USA or Delorme, don't know. There are a lot of GPS plug-in
power cables for the iPaq on the market. I see Anywhere map's GPS for the
iPaq is pretty expensive, so you can definitely save money buying a a GPS unit
and software separately. Check out GPS city for example of what is available:
http://www.gpscity.com/cat-pda-gps.htm
I have a Destinator software and GPS/pwr cable for my iPaq and car use. Works great.
I also have a CF (compact flash) GPS card (BC-307) that slips into the iPaq
expansion sleeve slot. It also works well. It has the antenna built into the
card but also has a plug in extension antenna. It is great for portability
(like hiking) but does not power the iPaq, you need a separate power cable for
car or plane use. I got the BC-307 off of eBay for $50 and the Destinator came
with the software.
USB powered? You don't want USB for your iPaq, you wand the iPaq plug. BTW the
port in the bottom of the iPaq is a SERIAL port and uses a NMEA protocol. The
USB is what you plug into the PC to patch you iPaq to the PC. Since you said
iPaq, I assume you want a iPaq serial (RS232) plug on the end, not a USB, which
is for laptop use.
Google the web for reviews of GPS units (both cable/plug and CF type) for PDA's
and Laptops, some brands seem to not be as sensitive. Not all GPS chipsets are
the same for a fact. There are different GPS chips. Most all GPS now have WAAS
capability, but not all GPS are the same quality. Read the Internet reviews
first of plug in GPS receiver's, some are not as sensitive or stable. Also reading
about why GPS gives incorrect altitude (satellite geometry and math model
used), some chipsets are +/-100 and cheaper ones are +/-200 feet. Although altitude
is not the use GPS, it is an indication of quality.
Not sure about DeLorme, but a quick scan of review shows poor reviews, but it seems
more from the map software than the hardware (GPS receiver).
Take care George
>Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: USB powered GPS with iPaq??
>
>Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
>USB cable with an iPaq? Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's
>both powered & talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty
good
>deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
>lagniappe.I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>Thanks, Charlie
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
Hello Charlie -
Didn't mean to send you on a snipe hunt. I believe you found the
discussion (EMI/RFI) that I remembered reading. The only 'solution'
that I recall involved shielding the Ray Allen wiring and separating
it from the antenna wiring.
Try posting your issue over on the Europa list to the attention of a
fellow named Nigel Charles to see he'll give you a readback/summary of
what they uncovered. I bet he'll CC this list if asked, too.
Hope this helps!
D
--------------------------
On 7/3/05, Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
>
> I've spent two days searching the Europa archives for a solution to this
> problem with no success. I found several discussions about RFI and the
> trim indcator, but no solutions. I looked under RFI, trim indicators,
> PTT, radio transimissions, and a host of other topics.
>
> Can you be more specific as to the solution or the topic of possible
> solutions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: PTT and Trim Indicator Problem From: "John Schroeder" |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
Charlie -
Don't send the note to Nigel, send it to Nev. Here's the recent
thread that I was talking about:
http://www.sarangan.org/europa_forum/2005-06/msg00157.html
D
Message 16
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Subject: | Dimmers & LED Indicators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
Folks,
I'm installing B&C's DIM 15-14 Dimmer Assembly, Pillar Point Fuel Pump Switch/Controller
and Ray Allen RP3 LED position indicator for elevator trim in my GlaStar.
The Pillar Point installation instructions say to wire the lighting control wire
into a dimmer. I tried it with the DIM 15-14 and it didn't have any effect
on the LED light intensity.
I also have the same question about the Ray Allen LED trim indicator.
Any suggestions on how to dim the LEDs in these two indicators? It also strikes
me that there is a complication. As I turn my dimmer pot clockwise, the resistance
goes down, the voltage goes up and the lights get brighter. I'm going
to want the LEDs at their maximum brightness during the day so I can see them
in sunlight. I don't want my panel lights at full bright during the day but
if I use the same dimmer for panel lights as I do for the LED indicators, my indicators
will be dim during the day and I'll have to turn the voltage up to see
them.
Is there another dimmer module or a simple ol' pot that will work in this application?
(If I need another dimmer/pot, I'd like to use one to control both the
fuel pump controller and the trim indicator to save panel space.)
Best regards,
Bob
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Sources for USB GPS at econ costs! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Wickert <jimw_btg@earthlink.net>
Charlie,
Also here is a website that has several GPS reviews for a lot of units that are
Bluetooth, USB and Serial:
http://www.pocketgpsworld.com/menu_gpshardware3.php
This is a website for GPS Bluetooth engines USB and Serial convention that are
as low as $109.00 they also have interconnection parts and pieces adapters that
interface to the 12 volt auto citcuit with regulated power as well.
http://www.deluoelectronics.com/customer/gps_laptop_pda_bluetooth.php?section=BLUETOOTH.
These two sites seem to have a lot of informaiton.
Take care!
Jim Wickert
Vision #159
Some will have some will not!!! Homebuilt aircraft!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Excellent! Here's the link to their usb powered gps engine:
http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/usb_gps_specs.jsp
This means that it's do-able with pretty much any usb gps, some
connectors & soldering skills.
Thanks, Jim.
Charlie
Jim Wickert wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Wickert <jimw_btg@earthlink.net>
>
>Charlie,
>
>I have not at this time used it but I have a unit that is supplied by Mountain
Scope, PCavionics that is a USB connect and they also have a Bluetooth as well.
Check it out on thier site.
>
>Jim Wickert
>Vision #159
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>To: undisclosed-recipients:;
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
>Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
>USB cable with an iPaq?
>
>Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
>talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
>deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
>lagniappe.
>
>I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Thanks for the link; they have several under $100 that will probably work.
'Engine' is sometimes used to describe a bare-bones gps receiver with no
display; just antenna (sometimes), power input & data output.
To reduce confusion a bit, my old iPaq 3600 (& I suspect most of the
other models as well) supports both (quasi-)rs232 & usb at the
interface connector on the bottom. USB is just 4 wires: power, ground,
data in & data out. If usb protocol is implemented on both devices, they
will usually talk to each other requiring, at most, that you 'cross'
the data lines.
I guess the only unanswered question on most of these 'engines' is
update frequency. Some are 1 per second; I suspect that the unspecified
ones are considerably slower.
Thanks for all the help & I'll report my results after I take some action.
Charlie
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>Not sure what a GPS "engine is" but if you are talking about a GPS receiver, power
jack and plug (that goes into the bottom of a iPaq) Yes these Y-cables work
great. As far as Comp USA or Delorme, don't know. There are a lot of GPS plug-in
power cables for the iPaq on the market. I see Anywhere map's GPS for the
iPaq is pretty expensive, so you can definitely save money buying a a GPS unit
and software separately. Check out GPS city for example of what is available:
>
>http://www.gpscity.com/cat-pda-gps.htm
>
>
>I have a Destinator software and GPS/pwr cable for my iPaq and car use. Works
great. I also have a CF (compact flash) GPS card (BC-307) that slips into the
iPaq expansion sleeve slot. It also works well. It has the antenna built into
the card but also has a plug in extension antenna. It is great for portability
(like hiking) but does not power the iPaq, you need a separate power cable for
car or plane use. I got the BC-307 off of eBay for $50 and the Destinator came
with the software.
>
>USB powered? You don't want USB for your iPaq, you wand the iPaq plug. BTW the
port in the bottom of the iPaq is a SERIAL port and uses a NMEA protocol. The
USB is what you plug into the PC to patch you iPaq to the PC. Since you said
iPaq, I assume you want a iPaq serial (RS232) plug on the end, not a USB, which
is for laptop use.
>
>Google the web for reviews of GPS units (both cable/plug and CF type) for PDA's
and Laptops, some brands seem to not be as sensitive. Not all GPS chipsets are
the same for a fact. There are different GPS chips. Most all GPS now have WAAS
capability, but not all GPS are the same quality. Read the Internet reviews
first of plug in GPS receiver's, some are not as sensitive or stable. Also reading
about why GPS gives incorrect altitude (satellite geometry and math model
used), some chipsets are +/-100 and cheaper ones are +/-200 feet. Although
altitude is not the use GPS, it is an indication of quality.
>
>Not sure about DeLorme, but a quick scan of review shows poor reviews, but it
seems more from the map software than the hardware (GPS receiver).
>
>Take care George
>
>
>
>
>>Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>>Subject: USB powered GPS with iPaq??
>>
>>Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
>>USB cable with an iPaq? Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's
>both powered & talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a
pretty good
>>deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
>>lagniappe.I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>>Thanks, Charlie
>>
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID726Jgea4m0074X30
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
Generaly you dim LEDs by flashing them - more off than on to make them appear
dimmer. Anything faster than 100 Hz appears to be a constant signal to the
eye. LEDs don't have much in the way of dynamic range as far as full-on to
full-off without being willing to burn them up without realy precise
voltage/current control. But they do turn on and off really quickly.
I've been toying with this problem as well. What's needed is a
voltage-controlled duty cycle circuit. I just moved so I haven't looked at
this for a couple weeks. But if nobody has a better idea for you in a few days
I'll get back to working on that circuit. It shouldn't be all that complex -
just gonna take me sitting down and doing it.
Chad
Chad Sipperley
Lancair IVP turbine (under construction)
Phoenix, AZ
------ Original Message ------
From: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm installing B&C's DIM 15-14 Dimmer Assembly, Pillar Point Fuel Pump
Switch/Controller and Ray Allen RP3 LED position indicator for elevator trim
in my GlaStar.
>
> The Pillar Point installation instructions say to wire the lighting control
wire into a dimmer. I tried it with the DIM 15-14 and it didn't have any
effect on the LED light intensity.
>
> I also have the same question about the Ray Allen LED trim indicator.
>
> Any suggestions on how to dim the LEDs in these two indicators? It also
strikes me that there is a complication. As I turn my dimmer pot clockwise,
the resistance goes down, the voltage goes up and the lights get brighter.
I'm going to want the LEDs at their maximum brightness during the day so I can
see them in sunlight. I don't want my panel lights at full bright during the
day but if I use the same dimmer for panel lights as I do for the LED
indicators, my indicators will be dim during the day and I'll have to turn the
voltage up to see them.
>
> Is there another dimmer module or a simple ol' pot that will work in this
application? (If I need another dimmer/pot, I'd like to use one to control
both the fuel pump controller and the trim indicator to save panel space.)
>
> Best regards,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
Subject: | Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Morris \"BigD\"" <BigD@DaveMorris.com>
I bought 4 of the Luxeon 1W stars in series and hooked them up to a
variable power supply. They dim just fine, you just have to keep the
maximum voltage below their maximum limits. No need to flash them. At
maximum brightness, they will blind you. And you can dim them all the way off.
Dave Morris
At 07:55 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
>
>Generaly you dim LEDs by flashing them - more off than on to make them appear
>dimmer. Anything faster than 100 Hz appears to be a constant signal to the
>eye. LEDs don't have much in the way of dynamic range as far as full-on to
>full-off without being willing to burn them up without realy precise
>voltage/current control. But they do turn on and off really quickly.
>
>I've been toying with this problem as well. What's needed is a
>voltage-controlled duty cycle circuit. I just moved so I haven't looked at
>this for a couple weeks. But if nobody has a better idea for you in a few days
>I'll get back to working on that circuit. It shouldn't be all that complex -
>just gonna take me sitting down and doing it.
>
>Chad
>
>
>Chad Sipperley
>Lancair IVP turbine (under construction)
>Phoenix, AZ
>
>------ Original Message ------
>From: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > I'm installing B&C's DIM 15-14 Dimmer Assembly, Pillar Point Fuel Pump
>Switch/Controller and Ray Allen RP3 LED position indicator for elevator trim
>in my GlaStar.
> >
> > The Pillar Point installation instructions say to wire the lighting control
>wire into a dimmer. I tried it with the DIM 15-14 and it didn't have any
>effect on the LED light intensity.
> >
> > I also have the same question about the Ray Allen LED trim indicator.
> >
> > Any suggestions on how to dim the LEDs in these two indicators? It also
>strikes me that there is a complication. As I turn my dimmer pot clockwise,
>the resistance goes down, the voltage goes up and the lights get brighter.
>I'm going to want the LEDs at their maximum brightness during the day so I can
>see them in sunlight. I don't want my panel lights at full bright during the
>day but if I use the same dimmer for panel lights as I do for the LED
>indicators, my indicators will be dim during the day and I'll have to turn the
>voltage up to see them.
> >
> > Is there another dimmer module or a simple ol' pot that will work in this
>application? (If I need another dimmer/pot, I'd like to use one to control
>both the fuel pump controller and the trim indicator to save panel space.)
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
Chad, Bob
Check out June and July 2001, at this link:
http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: <chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
>
> Generaly you dim LEDs by flashing them - more off than on to make them
> appear
> dimmer. Anything faster than 100 Hz appears to be a constant signal to the
> eye. LEDs don't have much in the way of dynamic range as far as full-on to
> full-off without being willing to burn them up without realy precise
> voltage/current control. But they do turn on and off really quickly.
>
> I've been toying with this problem as well. What's needed is a
> voltage-controlled duty cycle circuit. I just moved so I haven't looked at
> this for a couple weeks. But if nobody has a better idea for you in a few
> days
> I'll get back to working on that circuit. It shouldn't be all that
> complex -
> just gonna take me sitting down and doing it.
>
> Chad
>
>
> Chad Sipperley
> Lancair IVP turbine (under construction)
> Phoenix, AZ
>
> ------ Original Message ------
> From: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I'm installing B&C's DIM 15-14 Dimmer Assembly, Pillar Point Fuel Pump
> Switch/Controller and Ray Allen RP3 LED position indicator for elevator
> trim
> in my GlaStar.
>>
>> The Pillar Point installation instructions say to wire the lighting
>> control
> wire into a dimmer. I tried it with the DIM 15-14 and it didn't have any
> effect on the LED light intensity.
>>
>> I also have the same question about the Ray Allen LED trim indicator.
>>
>> Any suggestions on how to dim the LEDs in these two indicators? It also
> strikes me that there is a complication. As I turn my dimmer pot
> clockwise,
> the resistance goes down, the voltage goes up and the lights get brighter.
> I'm going to want the LEDs at their maximum brightness during the day so I
> can
> see them in sunlight. I don't want my panel lights at full bright during
> the
> day but if I use the same dimmer for panel lights as I do for the LED
> indicators, my indicators will be dim during the day and I'll have to turn
> the
> voltage up to see them.
>>
>> Is there another dimmer module or a simple ol' pot that will work in this
> application? (If I need another dimmer/pot, I'd like to use one to
> control
> both the fuel pump controller and the trim indicator to save panel space.)
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID656JgecHH0130X37
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
Yeah,
I've been playing with the 5W versions of the same lights you mentioned (and
yes, at max power they WILL flash-blind you). They have a bit more gradual
voltage-current curve than your ordinary LED. Usually you'll only have about
0.2-0.5V from minimum voltage to max current. Without knowing the limits of
the LEDs in an indicator I'd be hesitant to try varying voltages - especially
if I've got multiple indicators that might all behave differently. But if you
have them all set to the same flasher they'll all dim the same (most LEDs turn
on and off quickly enough to stay matched in intensity).
Chad
Chad Sipperley
Lancair IVP-turbine (under construction)
Phoenix, AZ
------ Original Message ------
From: "Dave Morris \"BigD\"" <BigD@DaveMorris.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Morris \"BigD\""
<BigD@DaveMorris.com>
>
> I bought 4 of the Luxeon 1W stars in series and hooked them up to a
> variable power supply. They dim just fine, you just have to keep the
> maximum voltage below their maximum limits. No need to flash them. At
> maximum brightness, they will blind you. And you can dim them all the way
off.
>
> Dave Morris
>
>
> At 07:55 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
> >
> >Generaly you dim LEDs by flashing them - more off than on to make them
appear
> >dimmer. Anything faster than 100 Hz appears to be a constant signal to the
> >eye. LEDs don't have much in the way of dynamic range as far as full-on to
> >full-off without being willing to burn them up without realy precise
> >voltage/current control. But they do turn on and off really quickly.
> >
> >I've been toying with this problem as well. What's needed is a
> >voltage-controlled duty cycle circuit. I just moved so I haven't looked at
> >this for a couple weeks. But if nobody has a better idea for you in a few
days
> >I'll get back to working on that circuit. It shouldn't be all that complex
-
> >just gonna take me sitting down and doing it.
> >
> >Chad
> >
> >
> >Chad Sipperley
> >Lancair IVP turbine (under construction)
> >Phoenix, AZ
> >
> >------ Original Message ------
> >From: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> > >
> > > Folks,
> > >
> > > I'm installing B&C's DIM 15-14 Dimmer Assembly, Pillar Point Fuel Pump
> >Switch/Controller and Ray Allen RP3 LED position indicator for elevator
trim
> >in my GlaStar.
> > >
> > > The Pillar Point installation instructions say to wire the lighting
control
> >wire into a dimmer. I tried it with the DIM 15-14 and it didn't have any
> >effect on the LED light intensity.
> > >
> > > I also have the same question about the Ray Allen LED trim indicator.
> > >
> > > Any suggestions on how to dim the LEDs in these two indicators? It
also
> >strikes me that there is a complication. As I turn my dimmer pot
clockwise,
> >the resistance goes down, the voltage goes up and the lights get brighter.
> >I'm going to want the LEDs at their maximum brightness during the day so I
can
> >see them in sunlight. I don't want my panel lights at full bright during
the
> >day but if I use the same dimmer for panel lights as I do for the LED
> >indicators, my indicators will be dim during the day and I'll have to turn
the
> >voltage up to see them.
> > >
> > > Is there another dimmer module or a simple ol' pot that will work in
this
> >application? (If I need another dimmer/pot, I'd like to use one to
control
> >both the fuel pump controller and the trim indicator to save panel space.)
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID605JgecZ70457X36
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
Great link - exactly what I was hoping someone could pull up for me *grin*.
Reminds me of the fist day of class in my first engineering course. His advice
was that the first rule of engineering is to see if someone has already solved
your problem for you.
Thanks!
Chad
Chad Sipperley
Lancair IVP-turbine (under construction)
Phoenix, AZ
------ Original Message ------
From: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath"
<Alto_Q@direcway.com>
>
> Chad, Bob
> Check out June and July 2001, at this link:
> http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/
> John D.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
> >
> > Generaly you dim LEDs by flashing them - more off than on to make them
> > appear
> > dimmer. Anything faster than 100 Hz appears to be a constant signal to
the
> > eye. LEDs don't have much in the way of dynamic range as far as full-on
to
> > full-off without being willing to burn them up without realy precise
> > voltage/current control. But they do turn on and off really quickly.
> >
> > I've been toying with this problem as well. What's needed is a
> > voltage-controlled duty cycle circuit. I just moved so I haven't looked
at
> > this for a couple weeks. But if nobody has a better idea for you in a few
> > days
> > I'll get back to working on that circuit. It shouldn't be all that
> > complex -
> > just gonna take me sitting down and doing it.
> >
> > Chad
> >
> >
> > Chad Sipperley
> > Lancair IVP turbine (under construction)
> > Phoenix, AZ
> >
> > ------ Original Message ------
> > From: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
> >
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> >>
> >> Folks,
> >>
> >> I'm installing B&C's DIM 15-14 Dimmer Assembly, Pillar Point Fuel Pump
> > Switch/Controller and Ray Allen RP3 LED position indicator for elevator
> > trim
> > in my GlaStar.
> >>
> >> The Pillar Point installation instructions say to wire the lighting
> >> control
> > wire into a dimmer. I tried it with the DIM 15-14 and it didn't have any
> > effect on the LED light intensity.
> >>
> >> I also have the same question about the Ray Allen LED trim indicator.
> >>
> >> Any suggestions on how to dim the LEDs in these two indicators? It also
> > strikes me that there is a complication. As I turn my dimmer pot
> > clockwise,
> > the resistance goes down, the voltage goes up and the lights get
brighter.
> > I'm going to want the LEDs at their maximum brightness during the day so I
> > can
> > see them in sunlight. I don't want my panel lights at full bright during
> > the
> > day but if I use the same dimmer for panel lights as I do for the LED
> > indicators, my indicators will be dim during the day and I'll have to turn
> > the
> > voltage up to see them.
> >>
> >> Is there another dimmer module or a simple ol' pot that will work in
this
> > application? (If I need another dimmer/pot, I'd like to use one to
> > control
> > both the fuel pump controller and the trim indicator to save panel
space.)
> >>
> >> Best regards,
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Morris \"BigD\"" <BigD@DaveMorris.com>
Eric Jones of Perihelion Designs isn't tooting his own horn here, so I will
do it for him. He has a great little dimmer for only $29.75 here
http://www.periheliondesign.com/Vregflyer.htm
Dave Morris
At 08:53 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
>
>Chad, Bob
> Check out June and July 2001, at this link:
>http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/
>John D.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org
> >
> > Generaly you dim LEDs by flashing them - more off than on to make them
> > appear
> > dimmer. Anything faster than 100 Hz appears to be a constant signal to the
> > eye. LEDs don't have much in the way of dynamic range as far as full-on to
> > full-off without being willing to burn them up without realy precise
> > voltage/current control. But they do turn on and off really quickly.
> >
> > I've been toying with this problem as well. What's needed is a
> > voltage-controlled duty cycle circuit. I just moved so I haven't looked at
> > this for a couple weeks. But if nobody has a better idea for you in a few
> > days
> > I'll get back to working on that circuit. It shouldn't be all that
> > complex -
> > just gonna take me sitting down and doing it.
> >
> > Chad
> >
> >
> > Chad Sipperley
> > Lancair IVP turbine (under construction)
> > Phoenix, AZ
> >
> > ------ Original Message ------
> > From: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmers & LED Indicators
> >
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
> >>
> >> Folks,
> >>
> >> I'm installing B&C's DIM 15-14 Dimmer Assembly, Pillar Point Fuel Pump
> > Switch/Controller and Ray Allen RP3 LED position indicator for elevator
> > trim
> > in my GlaStar.
> >>
> >> The Pillar Point installation instructions say to wire the lighting
> >> control
> > wire into a dimmer. I tried it with the DIM 15-14 and it didn't have any
> > effect on the LED light intensity.
> >>
> >> I also have the same question about the Ray Allen LED trim indicator.
> >>
> >> Any suggestions on how to dim the LEDs in these two indicators? It also
> > strikes me that there is a complication. As I turn my dimmer pot
> > clockwise,
> > the resistance goes down, the voltage goes up and the lights get brighter.
> > I'm going to want the LEDs at their maximum brightness during the day so I
> > can
> > see them in sunlight. I don't want my panel lights at full bright during
> > the
> > day but if I use the same dimmer for panel lights as I do for the LED
> > indicators, my indicators will be dim during the day and I'll have to turn
> > the
> > voltage up to see them.
> >>
> >> Is there another dimmer module or a simple ol' pot that will work in this
> > application? (If I need another dimmer/pot, I'd like to use one to
> > control
> > both the fuel pump controller and the trim indicator to save panel space.)
> >>
> >> Best regards,
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Dimmers & LED Indicators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 07/04/2005 6:57:40 PM Central Standard Time,
chad-c_sip@stanfordalumni.org writes:
been toying with this problem as well. What's needed is a
voltage-controlled duty cycle circuit. I just moved so I haven't looked at
this for a couple weeks. But if nobody has a better idea for you in a few days
I'll get back to working on that circuit. It shouldn't be all that complex -
just gonna take me sitting down and doing it.
>>>>
Take a look at one of these 10 amp, $16 PWM motor controllers- I used one on
my plane (tossed the reverse switch and remote-wired a better quality variable
resistor to the panel) and it works beautifully...
http://mpja.com/productview.asp?product=4057+MD
See:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5104
and also click "next entry" at top of page
For a look a the modified dimmer installed, see:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5003
It's the gold-colored board, lower left side of the tray.
Have fun-
Mark Phillips
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