Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:43 AM - Re: Help - low voltage - update (Mike & Lee Anne Wiebe)
2. 10:18 AM - 24V Starter & 12V System (Mark & Lisa)
3. 11:14 AM - IC A23 external antenna adapter (F. ILMAIN)
4. 12:06 PM - Re: Help - low voltage - update (Jim Stone)
5. 04:02 PM - Re: Warning lights fro day VFR (rv-9a-online)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Help - low voltage - update |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike & Lee Anne Wiebe" <mwiebe@sympatico.ca>
Thx Jim - that makes some sense. I think it's time to pull the
alternator and check the diode bridge.
You raise another interesting idea. What do you think of this scenario?
I recently changed the battery to a smaller one (had the Odessey 680
ready to go for the new aircraft, so when it came time for a
"Knuckoll's change-out" I replaced the large B&C with the Odessey). The
alternator is the larger B&C, so alternator load shouldn't be the
problem (presuming the diodes are OK). Do you think a change to a
smaller battery might have changed the ability of the system to "sink"
the pulsing load of the strobes, and make voltage vary more?
I guess it's also possible that its done this since new, and I've just
never noticed. Though somehow I think I would have before now.
Mike
Message 2
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| Subject: | 24V Starter & 12V System |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark & Lisa" <marknlisa@hometel.com>
Bob (&/or other expert),
In your last msg on this subject you told us how you'd added a "Starter
Fault" circuit (a set of resistors and LEDs) to your drawing as a means of
ensuring all contactors are correctly configured prior to engaging the
starter.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Engine/Starter/24V_Starter_14V_System.pdf
Since you show several resistors installed in the circuit, I wondered if
LEDs designed to run from 12V (they already have resistors installed) like
these would work?
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Chicago%20Miniature/Web%20Data/5110F%20Serie
s.pdf
If not, would you please provide specs on the proper LEDs?
Would you please provide a little more depth on your "Starter Fault"
circuit? I was able to follow the schematic for the rest of the system, but
you lost me on this circuit. I can see how power gets back to the LEDs if
K2, K3, K4 or K5 are stuck, but I don't understand what happens in the
"Starter Fault" circuit itself. It seems that power can go either direction
thru there, but that's as far as I get.
BTW, you labeled both 150ohm 1w resistors connected to post 1 of S1 as "R1".
Message 3
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| Subject: | IC A23 external antenna adapter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "F. ILMAIN" <f_ilmain@hotmail.com>
Anyone knows what cable is need to connect an Icom A23 handheld (BNC) to an
external Antenna (BK external antenna adapter plug)
Thanks
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Help - low voltage - update |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jsto1@tampabay.rr.com>
My opinion would be that the smaller Odessey could contribute the
problem, but the alternator is more likely. Older batteries are known
to have increased internal resistance which limit their capacity to
provide current. If yours is new, that shouldn't be a problem.
The battery "sources" at least a hundred amps of current during an
engine start. The strobe power supply has several capacitors that are
re-charging and thus represent a low resistance needing an in-rush of
current. If the current isn't available the voltage drops. The current
can come from the alternator or the battery. Battery and alternator
internal resistance limits the surge current capability.
Jim Stone
Jabiru J450
Clearwater FL.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
& Lee Anne Wiebe
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Help - low voltage - update
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike & Lee Anne Wiebe"
--> <mwiebe@sympatico.ca>
Thx Jim - that makes some sense. I think it's time to pull the
alternator and check the diode bridge.
You raise another interesting idea. What do you think of this scenario?
I recently changed the battery to a smaller one (had the Odessey 680
ready to go for the new aircraft, so when it came time for a
"Knuckoll's change-out" I replaced the large B&C with the Odessey). The
alternator is the larger B&C, so alternator load shouldn't be the
problem (presuming the diodes are OK). Do you think a change to a
smaller battery might have changed the ability of the system to "sink"
the pulsing load of the strobes, and make voltage vary more?
I guess it's also possible that its done this since new, and I've just
never noticed. Though somehow I think I would have before now.
Mike
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Warning lights fro day VFR |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
I have four lamps:
Stall warning (red)
Engine warning (yellow) (driven from the alarm output of the Rocky
Mountain engine monitor and or-tied with an oil pressure switch)
Flap operation (blue). Indicates when the flap motor is running (using
an ON-OFF-(ON) flap switch)).
Fuel pump operation (green).
I use the B&C lamps and the Vx Aviation lamp controller.
http://www.bandc.biz/parts.html
http://www3.telus.net/aviation/vx
A note on the flap operation and boost pump lights:
Rather than using a flap position switch which requires position sensors
and relays, (money, install time, another point of failure), I use a B&C
S700-2-5 switch. To position the flaps, I look out the window. To
extend the flaps, this switch must be held down. To retract the flaps,
the switch is flipped up and left up. In a go-around or touch&go, this
frees up your hand for other important tasks.
The lamp is there to 'remind you' that you may have left the flap switch
up and should neutralize it to save wear and tear on the flap motor.
Since this lamp is in parallel with the flap motor (or controlled with
the Vx Aviation device), a failure in the lamp circuit will not likely
affect flap operation.
Similarly, the boost pump light is there to 'remind you' that the pump
is on.
I like the idea that the pilot is in control, not some fancy electronics
stuck in the middle that positions the flaps or turns the boost pump off
automatically.
Thanks,
Vern Little
RV-9A
>
>Could some of you guys recommend warning lights to put on the panel? My
>objective is to have bright lights therefore visible in direct sunlight.
>LEDs could probably do it better than incandescent bulbs. Since I shall not
>be doing night VFR or IFR as most of Europe does not allow it with
>experimentals (unless the engine and avionics are certified and maintained
>as a certified), I would not need a dimmer circuit.
>
>
>
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