Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:31 AM - Concentric controls (Bruce McGregor)
2. 06:04 AM - Antenna Cable Connector Source (DAVID REEL)
3. 06:34 AM - Re: Concentric controls (Eric M. Jones)
4. 07:10 AM - Re: (Bill Denton)
5. 07:34 AM - Re: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane (Rick titsworth)
6. 08:29 AM - Re: Re: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane (bniles@cfl.rr.com)
7. 09:07 AM - Re: (Phil Birkelbach)
8. 09:42 AM - Re: Re: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane (Bruce Gray)
9. 10:17 AM - Re: (Jim Baker)
10. 10:22 AM - Re: Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2 ()
11. 11:32 AM - Wire run questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 11:43 AM - Re: Re: Concentric controls (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 12:59 PM - Re: Wire run questions (LarryRobertHelming)
14. 02:17 PM - Audio Panel (Chris Byrne)
15. 07:28 PM - Re: Audio Panel (John Schroeder)
16. 08:12 PM - Re: Wire run questions (rsipp@earthlink.net)
17. 08:40 PM - Re: OVP thoughts (Ken)
18. 08:58 PM - Re: Re: Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2 (Chris & Kellie Hand)
Message 1
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Subject: | Concentric controls |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce McGregor" <bruceflys@comcast.net>
My intercom has the squelch and volume controls on concentric shafts. The
inner volume control is loose enough that vibration causes it to change
position in flight. Is there a method of adding mechanical resistance to
that shaft without causing the outer knob to rotate at the same time?
TIA, Bruce McGregor
Message 2
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Subject: | Antenna Cable Connector Source |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
No luck in the archives. Does anyone have a source for the BNC type coaxial cable
connector attached to the transponder tray with a snap ring on the Garmin
GTX320A? My unit came with a solder type connector & I would like to have a BNC
style connection to simplify panel removal. The Garmin part number is 330-00326-00.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Concentric controls |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce McGregor"
<bruceflys@comcast.net>
>My intercom has the squelch and volume controls on concentric shafts. The
> inner volume control is loose enough that vibration causes it to change
> position in flight. Is there a method of adding mechanical resistance to
> that shaft without causing the outer knob to rotate at the same time?
>TIA, Bruce McGregor
If you had a bunch of potentiometers and needed to make them all feel the
same (The "sine qua non" of potentiometer manufacturers), you COULD have
them machined incredibly precisely and then screw around until you went
bankrupt. Or----
You could make a carefully formulated silicone lubricant that has precise
"feel" characteristics. By using a particular lube, you can adjust the drag,
torque, smoothness, etc. Furthermore these charactistics can be relatively
temperature independent, make up for tolerance variations, and last a very
long time.
That's the GOOD news.
The BAD news is that the special silicones are only sold in 55 gallon drums
to OEMs. But Google it. You might find the one special drop you need--or
failing all else, try one drop of the very heaviest silicone oil you can
get. Might work.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
(508) 764-2072
"Beaten paths are for beaten men."
-E. A. Johnston
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
Thanks, guys, for your help. Unfortunately, I still haven't gotten an answer
to my question. I originally asked:
"In researching Transponders, many of the Install Manuals reference the use
of an "Air Switch" to switch the Transponder in and out of Standby mode as
the aircraft's airspeed crosses 30 kts+/-. Does anyone know anything about
these Air Switches and/or a source for them?"
Allow me to add some additional information:
The Transponder that I have narrowed my focus to is the Microair T2000. The
"Air Switch" is used to either ground a pin or lift the pin from ground
(configurable). It will not accept GPS information.
Don't laugh, but I will be using the transponder on a US Part 103
Ultralight. I will be operating just outside of the Chicago Class "B", so
I'd like to make sure that I stick out a bit. I checked with the FSDO and
they said I could do it, but the XPDR will have to undergo the same
inspections and checks that it would if it were installed in a GA plane.
And since I will be operating out of an untowered airport, there would be no
advantage to having the XPDR "on" while on the ground.
So, any help with the switch would be greatly appreciated....
Message 5
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Subject: | "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick titsworth <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
Bruce,
Just curious... Does your GTX330 turn back to STBY after landing?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Gray <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
On my GTX 330, pressing the on button overrides the stby function and the
transponder functions, even if on the ground and under 30 kts.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bakerocb@cox.net
Subject: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: bniles@cfl.rr.com
Many airports now want transponders on for all ground movement. If
not I would just use STBY. If you forget, DEP control will remind you.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton"
> <bdenton@bdenton.com>
> A couple of questions...
>
> In researching Transponders, many of the Install Manuals reference
> the use
> of an "Air Switch" to switch the Transponder in and out of Standby
> mode as
> the aircraft's airspeed crosses 30 kts+/-. Does anyone know
> anything about
> these Air Switches and/or a source for them?.....skip......
8/18/2005
Hello Bill and bniles, A couple of points if I may:
1) Many modern avionics installations have an interface between the GPS box
and the transponder that automatically turns the transponder on into
"Standby" and then on into "Altitude" modes when appropriate.
Applying power to my avionics bus causes the Garmin GNS 430 to come on if
the on box switch is left in the ON position. Applying power to my avionics
bus causes my GTX 327 to come on in the Standby mode regardless of any on
box switch positions (they are all momentary push buttons). When the GPS
tells the transponder that the airplane is airborne and going above a
certain speed the transponder automatically shifts from Standby to Altitude
mode -- no action at all is required by the pilot.
This feature could be considered an "Air Switch" by some people.
2) If operation of the transponder is done automatically as described above,
those airports that are expecting the transponders to be on while the
aircraft is on the ground will have to implement some sort of override
action by the pilots in order to make this happen.
OC
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: bniles@cfl.rr.com
Nope! No auto-stby after touchdown. That is what shutdown flows and
checklists are for.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick titsworth <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick titsworth
> <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
> Bruce,
> Just curious... Does your GTX330 turn back to STBY after landing?
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Gray <Bruce@glasair.org>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray"
> <Bruce@glasair.org>
> On my GTX 330, pressing the on button overrides the stby function
> and the
> transponder functions, even if on the ground and under 30 kts.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> bakerocb@cox.net
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: bniles@cfl.rr.com
>
> Many airports now want transponders on for all ground movement. If
> not I would just use STBY. If you forget, DEP control will remind
> you.
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton"
> > <bdenton@bdenton.com>
> > A couple of questions...
> >
> > In researching Transponders, many of the Install Manuals reference
> > the use
> > of an "Air Switch" to switch the Transponder in and out of Standby
> > mode as
> > the aircraft's airspeed crosses 30 kts+/-. Does anyone know
> > anything about
> > these Air Switches and/or a source for them?.....skip......
>
> 8/18/2005
>
> Hello Bill and bniles, A couple of points if I may:
>
> 1) Many modern avionics installations have an interface between
> the GPS box
> and the transponder that automatically turns the transponder on
> into
> "Standby" and then on into "Altitude" modes when appropriate.
>
> Applying power to my avionics bus causes the Garmin GNS 430 to
> come on if
> the on box switch is left in the ON position. Applying power to my
> avionics
> bus causes my GTX 327 to come on in the Standby mode regardless of
> any on
> box switch positions (they are all momentary push buttons). When
> the GPS
> tells the transponder that the airplane is airborne and going
> above a
> certain speed the transponder automatically shifts from Standby to
> Altitude
> mode -- no action at all is required by the pilot.
>
> This feature could be considered an "Air Switch" by some people.
>
> 2) If operation of the transponder is done automatically as
> described above,
>
> those airports that are expecting the transponders to be on while
> the
> aircraft is on the ground will have to implement some sort of
> override
> action by the pilots in order to make this happen.
>
> OC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Does the landing gear flex enough that you could use a squat switch?
You could buy a small limit switch from radio shack to do that.
You could use a DP pressure switch. Like found here...
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T052/1514.pdf
Just hook it into your pitot / static system like it was an airspeed
indicator. High pressure port on the pitot line.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Bill Denton wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
>
>Thanks, guys, for your help. Unfortunately, I still haven't gotten an answer
>to my question. I originally asked:
>
>"In researching Transponders, many of the Install Manuals reference the use
>of an "Air Switch" to switch the Transponder in and out of Standby mode as
>the aircraft's airspeed crosses 30 kts+/-. Does anyone know anything about
>these Air Switches and/or a source for them?"
>
>Allow me to add some additional information:
>
>The Transponder that I have narrowed my focus to is the Microair T2000. The
>"Air Switch" is used to either ground a pin or lift the pin from ground
>(configurable). It will not accept GPS information.
>
>Don't laugh, but I will be using the transponder on a US Part 103
>Ultralight. I will be operating just outside of the Chicago Class "B", so
>I'd like to make sure that I stick out a bit. I checked with the FSDO and
>they said I could do it, but the XPDR will have to undergo the same
>inspections and checks that it would if it were installed in a GA plane.
>
>And since I will be operating out of an untowered airport, there would be no
>advantage to having the XPDR "on" while on the ground.
>
>So, any help with the switch would be greatly appreciated....
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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|
Subject: | "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Yes, it does.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bniles@cfl.rr.com
Subject: Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: bniles@cfl.rr.com
Nope! No auto-stby after touchdown. That is what shutdown flows and
checklists are for.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick titsworth <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick titsworth
> <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
> Bruce,
> Just curious... Does your GTX330 turn back to STBY after landing?
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Gray <Bruce@glasair.org>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray"
> <Bruce@glasair.org>
> On my GTX 330, pressing the on button overrides the stby function
> and the
> transponder functions, even if on the ground and under 30 kts.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> bakerocb@cox.net
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: "Air" Switch & Antenna Ground Plane
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: bniles@cfl.rr.com
>
> Many airports now want transponders on for all ground movement. If
> not I would just use STBY. If you forget, DEP control will remind
> you.
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton"
> > <bdenton@bdenton.com>
> > A couple of questions...
> >
> > In researching Transponders, many of the Install Manuals reference
> > the use
> > of an "Air Switch" to switch the Transponder in and out of Standby
> > mode as
> > the aircraft's airspeed crosses 30 kts+/-. Does anyone know
> > anything about
> > these Air Switches and/or a source for them?.....skip......
>
> 8/18/2005
>
> Hello Bill and bniles, A couple of points if I may:
>
> 1) Many modern avionics installations have an interface between
> the GPS box
> and the transponder that automatically turns the transponder on
> into
> "Standby" and then on into "Altitude" modes when appropriate.
>
> Applying power to my avionics bus causes the Garmin GNS 430 to
> come on if
> the on box switch is left in the ON position. Applying power to my
> avionics
> bus causes my GTX 327 to come on in the Standby mode regardless of
> any on
> box switch positions (they are all momentary push buttons). When
> the GPS
> tells the transponder that the airplane is airborne and going
> above a
> certain speed the transponder automatically shifts from Standby to
> Altitude
> mode -- no action at all is required by the pilot.
>
> This feature could be considered an "Air Switch" by some people.
>
> 2) If operation of the transponder is done automatically as
> described above,
>
> those airports that are expecting the transponders to be on while
> the
> aircraft is on the ground will have to implement some sort of
> override
> action by the pilots in order to make this happen.
>
> OC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
> "In researching Transponders, many of the Install Manuals
reference
> the use of an "Air Switch" to switch the Transponder in and out of
> Standby mode as the aircraft's airspeed crosses 30 kts+/-. Does
anyone
> know anything about these Air Switches and/or a source for
them?"
OK. Try...
http://www.pressureswitch.com/products500.html
and
http://www.iflyez.com/manometer.htm
and
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=PSW-141&Nav=preh04
and
http://www.thomasnet.com/nsearch.html?cov=NA&heading=819017
61
Man, I love the InterNet!!!!!
At 20 kts you need (at least at sea level) a switch capable of .05 psi
activation. The above switch will provide that. Since it's 103, plumb a
tee off the pitot or use a separate pitot, your choice.
Or....again, since it's 103, a Cherry lever switch with a plate attached
that activates when speed is high enough (additional drag probably
not needed tho!!!)
> FSDO and they said I could do it, but the XPDR will have to
undergo
> the same inspections and checks that it would if it were installed in
> a GA plane.
Not if you don't want to.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
'71 SV, 492TC
Elmore City, OK
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>I would suggest, however, that anyone with an Emag or Pmag on their running
engine
>remove them to examine the gear for wear/damage.
For those who need a non-impulse magneto gear for their electronic igintion:
Try ECI, Non impulse mag gears $204.00
I purchased my mag gear on eBay. It took two tries, the first one was OK but slightly
pitted, so I returned it to the seller with no problem. I bid and won a
second gear on eBay which was in very good condition for about $80.
Your factory stock magnetos have two differnt drive gears, one magneto use an impulse
gear, the other magneto uses a non-impulse gear. Electronic ignitions
use the non-impulse gear only.
If you replace just one magneto you replace the non-impulse magneto and use the
gear from the stock mag for the electronic ignition trigger (hall effect). If
you replace both magnetos for electronic ignition you will need a second non-impulse
gear.
Other EI, like Lightspeed, give you a choice of using a magneto driven trigger
(hall effect) or a crank trigger. The crank trigger mounts on the front of the
engine and uses magnets mounted in the flywheel and a pick-up bolted to the front
of the engine case. There is work involved in placing magnets in the flywheel
but it has advatages, like no magneto gears . The magneto gear drive is
easier to install in that you don't have to install magnets or trigger pickups
on the engine case.
Regards George
>Subject: FW: [c-a] Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2
>From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>Subject: [c-a] Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2
>
>I would suggest, however, that anyone with an Emag or Pmag on their running
engine
>remove them to examine the gear for wear/damage. Maybe my gear was an anomaly
>- god knows that I seem to have more than my fair share of them, but if
there
>was a bad run of gears, folks should check to make sure that they're not
>making metal in their engines, too. Try to file a tip of one gear tooth
- if
>the file takes off metal, it's not hardened. Check with YOUR engine experts
to
>see if they concur that it SHOULD be hardened - that's what Ken and his
two
>guys said.
>
>Marc J. Zeitlin
---------------------------------
Message 11
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Subject: | Wire run questions |
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY": aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Ok, got a couple questions on how to run some of my wing wiring. Breaks down to
these two things:
1) Is it necessary (other than just a good idea) to run the nav coax (RG400) away
from the pitot (16ga), strobe (shielded), and landing light (18ga to HID local
ballast) power lines. I have plenty of places in my ribs where I could move
the coax about 12" away from the power lines. I'm already running the trim
with the pitot and AOA air lines which are about another 6" away from the power
runs. Basically it would look something like this
( | . . . >
if I split them up with the first period being the pitot air, then the power,
and finally the coax.
2) I am using the Archer nav antennas and have a ton of room in my wingtip allowing
me to mount the antenna way aft of the lights. If the LED power and strobe
wires don't cross the antenna, or even come near it, do I need to be concerned
with running them along the antenna? If the answer is no, it gives me more
incentive to run the nav coax separate as I can probably maintain the 12" clearance
all the way to the antenna.
I have a pretty good idea on the answer but I want to be sure.
Michael Sausen
-10 # 352 wing ribs
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Concentric controls |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:31 AM 8/19/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce McGregor"
><bruceflys@comcast.net>
>
> >My intercom has the squelch and volume controls on concentric shafts. The
> > inner volume control is loose enough that vibration causes it to change
> > position in flight. Is there a method of adding mechanical resistance to
> > that shaft without causing the outer knob to rotate at the same time?
> >TIA, Bruce McGregor
>
>If you had a bunch of potentiometers and needed to make them all feel the
>same (The "sine qua non" of potentiometer manufacturers), you COULD have
>them machined incredibly precisely and then screw around until you went
>bankrupt. Or----
>
>You could make a carefully formulated silicone lubricant that has precise
>"feel" characteristics. By using a particular lube, you can adjust the drag,
>torque, smoothness, etc. Furthermore these charactistics can be relatively
>temperature independent, make up for tolerance variations, and last a very
>long time.
>
>That's the GOOD news.
>
>The BAD news is that the special silicones are only sold in 55 gallon drums
>to OEMs. But Google it. You might find the one special drop you need--or
>failing all else, try one drop of the very heaviest silicone oil you can
>get. Might work.
High Eric, pleased to meet you in person last weekend in Plymouth!
I think Bruce's problem is a bit tougher. He wants to drive up
friction forces in the center shaft of a two shaft system. All
the standard techniques (silicon oils, friction washers between
knobs, etc) only serve to INCREASE friction between the inner shaft
(end knob) and outer shaft (large knob). I don't have a
suggestion for making an adjustment of center-shaft friction
forces that do not apply same force to the outer shaft.
By the way, anyone wishing to add that silky-smooth friction
characteristic to rotary controls, some sliding controls, and
even damping for some instrument movements can fiddle with
high viscosity silicon oils available in small bottles from
hobby shops. This stuff is used as shock absorber fluid on
RC race cars. I built some nose-gear steering controls for
a Hawker Horizon simulator where silicon oil filled model car
shock struts offered the desired resistance and smooth feel.
It's also used to "semi-lock" differentials in model cars.
See: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=&I=LXBZT5
Bob . . .
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Wire run questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
The answer to both questions is NO.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
(Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
----- Original Message -----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Ok, got a couple questions on how to run some of my wing wiring. Breaks
> down to these two things:
>
> 1) Is it necessary (other than just a good idea) to run the nav coax
> (RG400) away from the pitot (16ga), strobe (shielded), and landing light
> (18ga to HID local ballast) power lines. I have plenty of places in my
> ribs where I could move the coax about 12" away from the power lines. I'm
> already running the trim with the pitot and AOA air lines which are about
> another 6" away from the power runs. Basically it would look something
> like this
>
> ( | . . . >
>
> if I split them up with the first period being the pitot air, then the
> power, and finally the coax.
>
> 2) I am using the Archer nav antennas and have a ton of room in my wingtip
> allowing me to mount the antenna way aft of the lights. If the LED power
> and strobe wires don't cross the antenna, or even come near it, do I need
> to be concerned with running them along the antenna? If the answer is no,
> it gives me more incentive to run the nav coax separate as I can probably
> maintain the 12" clearance all the way to the antenna.
>
> I have a pretty good idea on the answer but I want to be sure.
>
> Michael Sausen
Message 14
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3.03 DATE_IN_FUTURE_12_24 Date: is 12 to 24 hours after Received: date
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Byrne" <jack.byrne@bigpond.com>
I seem to remember someone posting that they had their GMA340 modified in
some way to improve the quality of the music (loudness maybe) output.
I am considering getting a GMA340 but have heard they are a bit suspect in
the intercom area, particularly when playing music.
Any commments on a fix or there overall quality would be good.
I need an Audio panel that will handle 2 VHF a MB and allow two seperate
music inputs. (stereo)
I want to play Straus in the front and Wiggles in the back.
Chris Byrne
Sydney
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Chris -
With the GMA-340, you have two music inputs that can be wired as you would
like them to be. We had the avionics tech wire one input that will go to
all four seats. The other input has nothing in. There is a preamp in the
box and you can wire it so that it is on all the time for those music
inputs that have a low signal. You can install a switch in the line and be
able to turn it on or off. The problem with that preamp is that it
amplifies everything, including any noise in the system. For this reason,
we decided not to wire it up and will select a music box that has enough
signal strength.
We are not flying yet but the 340 appears to be a very good box. We do
have a very, very low level of noise, but have not isolated the other gear
to see if it is in the 340 or not. Based on what we have done in the
checkout phase (not flying yet), I think it is probably in the 340. It is
really not a problem, IMHO.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
John
PS: We had our 340 wired by an avionics shop, so I can't tell you how to
wire the dual channels you want to have.
> Any commments on a fix or there overall quality would be good.
>
> I need an Audio panel that will handle 2 VHF a MB and allow two seperate
> music inputs. (stereo)
> I want to play Straus in the front and Wiggles in the back.
>
>
> Chris Byrne
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Wire run questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rsipp@earthlink.net
Mike:
Regarding #2)
I asked Bob Archer the same question regarding the large 10 wing tip and the opportunity
to run the wires away from the nav antenna. His response was not to
do this and to follow the instructions and intentionally run all the other tip
wiring along the angled leg of the antenna. He sent updated instructions that
emphasize this.
Dick Sipp
RV4 700 hours
RV10 40065
-----Original Message-----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY": aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wire run questions
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Ok, got a couple questions on how to run some of my wing wiring. Breaks down to
these two things:
1) Is it necessary (other than just a good idea) to run the nav coax (RG400) away
from the pitot (16ga), strobe (shielded), and landing light (18ga to HID local
ballast) power lines. I have plenty of places in my ribs where I could move
the coax about 12" away from the power lines. I'm already running the trim
with the pitot and AOA air lines which are about another 6" away from the power
runs. Basically it would look something like this
( | . . . >
if I split them up with the first period being the pitot air, then the power,
and finally the coax.
2) I am using the Archer nav antennas and have a ton of room in my wingtip allowing
me to mount the antenna way aft of the lights. If the LED power and strobe
wires don't cross the antenna, or even come near it, do I need to be concerned
with running them along the antenna? If the answer is no, it gives me more
incentive to run the nav coax separate as I can probably maintain the 12" clearance
all the way to the antenna.
I have a pretty good idea on the answer but I want to be sure.
Michael Sausen
-10 # 352 wing ribs
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: OVP thoughts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
>
> Would you care to post some power distribution diagrams that
> describe your architecture. The lack of battery contactors piques
> our interest. You've expressed some interest in management
> of an OV event . . . it seems that elimination of battery contactors
> offers possibilities for some equally exciting failure modes
> that battery contactors are expected to control . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Sorry but my diagrams are in pencil and not very neat ;)
Essentially I have a Z-14 with no battery contactors. My main interest
is two hot battery busses to feed the electrically dependant engine and
I don't ever want to disconnect those engine computers from a battery.
Each of those busses distributes through a 6 fuse fuseblock and has low
voltage warnings. Almost everything else, including the starter, is
routed through a contactor and then a 10 fuse fuseblock. If I open that
contactor then it kills everything but the battery busses which is no
problem as the primary gyros are vacuum operated. I know vacuum is less
reliable but I prefer a six pack and vacuum was affordable at the time.
There is a low vacuum warning. Instead of plumbing an engine intake
manifold backup vacuum source I added a $30. flymarket 28 volt electric
T&B which works just fine on 12volts with surprisingly little change in
rpm or current draw. A handheld vhf and gps backup is available if
needed and one cigarette lighter outlet is powered from a battery bus.
There is an OVM and a B-lead contactor/relay on both the main 40 amp
alternator and the 20 amp PM alternator.
This was fairly carefully considered as appropriate for my needs and a
bit simpler than the stock Z-14. There is no separate starter contactor
but I can still kill power to the automotive starter. This also
eliminates two battery contactors but adds in that one power
distribution contactor. The batteries are wee 8 AH units and the
crossfeed closes for cranking. Since I have 3 busses, all switches are
color keyed red (left battery bus for backup engine controls), blue
(right battery bus for primary engine), and yellow (the switched non
essential) bus. Pilot operating simplicity was very much a
consideration. All warnings (except low fuel and crossfeed closed) are
done with a Grand Rapids EIS.
Ken
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
My RV-6A engine should be ready for me sometime this fall, ordered with an
e-mag/p-mag combination so this thread definitely caught my attention. I
asked them about it, and they have the following posted on the Innovation
section of their web site (http://www.emagair.com/Innovation.htm) :
Q: I read about an occurrence of excessive drive gear wear and your gears
not being certified. Can you elaborate?
A: As stated on order forms and price lists, our drive gears are not
certified gears. We try to replicate certified gears in terms of both their
dimension and their hardness. It was surprising to us (at first) to find
the certified gear we had tested was not hardened. We then realized there
would be advantages in keeping the drive gear (accessible and easy to
replace) unhardened so it will wear before the gear it engages (inside the
engine and much harder to inspect/replace). Of the numerous in-service
gears that have come through our shop, we've seen only one (1) occurrence of
significant wear/deformation of a drive gear. In all likelihood it was
caused by some kind of foreign matter under one side of the flange when it
was clamped down. That would have cocked the unit to one side, preload the
gear, and cause the excessive wear.
They also said you do have the option of using a certified gear if desired,
as I think somebody else pointed out in an earlier reply.
I don't know enough about mag drive gears to know whether certified gears
are or are not hardened, or whether they should be, but am posting this as
additional info on the subject and it sounds like emagair has checked on
that question.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing kit stage
> >Subject: FW: [c-a] Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2
> >From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> >
> >Subject: [c-a] Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2
> >
> >I would suggest, however, that anyone with an Emag or Pmag on their
running engine
> >remove them to examine the gear for wear/damage. Maybe my gear was
an anomaly
> >- god knows that I seem to have more than my fair share of them,
but if there
> >was a bad run of gears, folks should check to make sure that
they're not
> >making metal in their engines, too. Try to file a tip of one gear
tooth - if
> >the file takes off metal, it's not hardened. Check with YOUR
engine experts to
> >see if they concur that it SHOULD be hardened - that's what Ken and
his two
> >guys said.
> >
> >Marc J. Zeitlin
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
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