Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:06 AM - Re: Re: Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2 (sportav8r@aol.com)
2. 06:40 AM - Re: Was wire run questions - now Archer antenna (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
3. 09:30 AM - Low System Voltage Troubleshooting (Brian Cross)
4. 09:36 AM - AMP connector pin source (Mickey Coggins)
5. 10:57 AM - Re: AMP connector pin source (gert)
6. 11:44 AM - Re: Low System Voltage Troubleshooting (Joe Dubner)
7. 01:04 PM - Transponder Certification ()
8. 02:40 PM - recharge/jump start recepticle (chris macy)
9. 02:40 PM - Re: Low System Voltage Troubleshooting (Brian Cross)
10. 03:28 PM - Re: Transponder Certification (Jim Baker)
11. 04:46 PM - Re: recharge/jump start recepticle (Richard Dudley)
12. 05:03 PM - Re: recharge/jump start recepticle (Larry McFarland)
13. 05:15 PM - Re: recharge/jump start recepticle (Jim Stone)
14. 05:31 PM - NSI New Chief Engineer (Eric M. Jones)
15. 05:49 PM - Wiring an RV-4 (Ron Patterson)
16. 06:50 PM - Re: NSI New Chief Engineer (D Wysong)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Though I have not spoken yet with anyone knowlegdgeable about this news, your answer
agrees well with my initial impression: the gear is so lightly loaded in
this application (turning an optical encoder wheel in the E-mag and also a light-duty,
rarely-loaded alternator in the P-Mag) that accelerated wear seems mechanically
impossible so long as alignment is correct. If alignment is off,
it's anyone's guess how well the gear would fare, and you'd be glad the soft gear
took the punishment.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris & Kellie Hand <ckhand@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand"
<ckhand@earthlink.net>
My RV-6A engine should be ready for me sometime this fall, ordered with an
e-mag/p-mag combination so this thread definitely caught my attention. I
asked them about it, and they have the following posted on the Innovation
section of their web site (http://www.emagair.com/Innovation.htm) :
Q: I read about an occurrence of excessive drive gear wear and your gears
not being certified. Can you elaborate?
A: As stated on order forms and price lists, our drive gears are not
certified gears. We try to replicate certified gears in terms of both their
dimension and their hardness. It was surprising to us (at first) to find
the certified gear we had tested was not hardened. We then realized there
would be advantages in keeping the drive gear (accessible and easy to
replace) unhardened so it will wear before the gear it engages (inside the
engine and much harder to inspect/replace). Of the numerous in-service
gears that have come through our shop, we've seen only one (1) occurrence of
significant wear/deformation of a drive gear. In all likelihood it was
caused by some kind of foreign matter under one side of the flange when it
was clamped down. That would have cocked the unit to one side, preload the
gear, and cause the excessive wear.
They also said you do have the option of using a certified gear if desired,
as I think somebody else pointed out in an earlier reply.
I don't know enough about mag drive gears to know whether certified gears
are or are not hardened, or whether they should be, but am posting this as
additional info on the subject and it sounds like emagair has checked on
that question.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing kit stage
> >Subject: FW: [c-a] Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2
> >From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> >
> >Subject: [c-a] Final (REALLY) PMag Update - Part 2
> >
> >I would suggest, however, that anyone with an Emag or Pmag on their
running engine
> >remove them to examine the gear for wear/damage. Maybe my gear was
an anomaly
> >- god knows that I seem to have more than my fair share of them,
but if there
> >was a bad run of gears, folks should check to make sure that
they're not
> >making metal in their engines, too. Try to file a tip of one gear
tooth - if
> >the file takes off metal, it's not hardened. Check with YOUR
engine experts to
> >see if they concur that it SHOULD be hardened - that's what Ken and
his two
> >guys said.
> >
> >Marc J. Zeitlin
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Was wire run questions - now Archer antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
That's interesting. Dan Checkoway, I believe you didn't run your wires across
the antenna. How's it working for you?
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rsipp@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wire run questions
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rsipp@earthlink.net
Mike:
Regarding #2)
I asked Bob Archer the same question regarding the large 10 wing tip and the opportunity
to run the wires away from the nav antenna. His response was not to
do this and to follow the instructions and intentionally run all the other tip
wiring along the angled leg of the antenna. He sent updated instructions that
emphasize this.
Dick Sipp
RV4 700 hours
RV10 40065
-----Original Message-----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY": aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wire run questions
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
--> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Ok, got a couple questions on how to run some of my wing wiring. Breaks down to
these two things:
1) Is it necessary (other than just a good idea) to run the nav coax (RG400) away
from the pitot (16ga), strobe (shielded), and landing light (18ga to HID local
ballast) power lines. I have plenty of places in my ribs where I could move
the coax about 12" away from the power lines. I'm already running the trim
with the pitot and AOA air lines which are about another 6" away from the power
runs. Basically it would look something like this
( | . . . >
if I split them up with the first period being the pitot air, then the power,
and finally the coax.
2) I am using the Archer nav antennas and have a ton of room in my wingtip allowing
me to mount the antenna way aft of the lights. If the LED power and strobe
wires don't cross the antenna, or even come near it, do I need to be concerned
with running them along the antenna? If the answer is no, it gives me more
incentive to run the nav coax separate as I can probably maintain the 12" clearance
all the way to the antenna.
I have a pretty good idea on the answer but I want to be sure.
Michael Sausen
-10 # 352 wing ribs
Message 3
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| Subject: | Low System Voltage Troubleshooting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Cross <bcross2160@rogers.com>
Hi Folks
I just wanted to comment on a problem I had been having for 6 years on my
aircraft. This is in response to a previous post I made about 3 weeks ago
& Kevin Horton & Ken Klehman were kind enough to supply some advice.
The electrical system is a classic Nuckolls system. It is very similar to
Z-1 as published in 1996. This is a simple system with a linear
regulator, mine is a B&C LR-3B. I did not use a toggle switch but a
standard aircraft key switch & Cessna style Battery/Alternator Master switch.
My helper during construction was a very bright guy who has his masters in
Elec. Engineering. The electrical installation is really really good due
to his work. He even used waxed lacing for wire ties which looks and
performs beautifully. Only 1 operational problem right from day one which
was July 25, 1999.
I was having so much fun flying etc. that I did not work too hard to solve
it as it did not keep me out of the air but bugged me as I know it was not
right.
The problem was the system voltage peaked at about 13.8 V and decreased
each time I added a load of any kind to the system. Each load would drop
the system load by about 0.1-0.2 volts. I could easily drop the system
voltage down to 12.8-12.9 volts but as most of my flying was day VFR, it
rarely got there.
I have an EI gauge to show volts/amps & also my Garmin 195 would display
the same. (I reasoned that it made sense to have the EI gauge mounted on
the Essential bus as I would want to know the condition of the battery if I
had to feed the E bus directly per the alternate feed switch if the
alternator went down). I did realize that my EI gauge was fed from the
Essential bus and therefore would read a lower voltage due to the drop
across the bridge rectifier which feeds the Essential bus from the Main
bus, (or buss?). I also checked it with 2 portable digital multimeters
which did not show anything was wrong with the readings. I also adjusted
the trim pot on the regulator which did not help very much.
I changed belts for the alternator, discussed the matter with B&C &
followed the trouble shooting specs. as supplied which were all within the
stated limits. Finally I decided in my finite wisdom that it must be the
regulator so I purchased a new reg. at $228 from B&C and installed it with
high hopes. As you probably guessed, I restarted the engine and the
numbers were EXACTLY the same. What a downer!
I posted my problem 3 weeks ago as I mentioned. Kevin suggested that I
move the feed point of the EI gauge to the Main bus. This helped but still
the drop continued. Ken suggested that I check all the points from the
alternator back to the main bus i.e. look for voltage drops at each
connection starting with the B lead and so forth. I did realize that I was
working with a digital multimeter and was testing the system with no load
applied during the resistance check & does not represent real life but I
did turn loads on the see if that would show any voltage drop. All
resistance drops were less than 1 ohm & therefore could see nothing obvious.
I called B&C again and Tim Johnson suggested a similar course of action as
per Ken & Kevin. However, his ears perked up when I mentioned my master
switch. He said that may be a problem.
Sure enough, I bypassed the master switch & the 5A feed breaker, (per Z-1),
running a jumper from the Main bus directly to pin #6 on the regulator
which is feed for the alternator field voltage & voil, after 6 years with
13 something volts max, I had 14.2-14.4 volts. I could not believe
it. After many more minutes with rudder pedals digging into my head,
torque tube in my back & sweat in my eyes, I only bypassed the Cessna
switch & the results were the same.
Now I am happily flying with a spare reg., no switch to turn the alternator
off & on except for thebreaker in the system which I can pull out if I need
to & making the voltage output I had always wanted.
Sure makes you think though, the wonderful brand new certified part in my
system was causing undue voltage drop across the switch itself & thereby
depressing my system voltage by up to 1.5 volts.
Many thanks to Kevin & Ken for sending me in the right direction & to B&C
as well who were great. I must say my little brain was still confused as I
assumed that the regulator sensing a lower than optimal voltage would
adjust the alternator field voltage upwards enough to compensate. At
Oshkosh, Bill Bainbridge immediately handed me his cell phone after dialing
up Tim Johnson & Tim explained that in theory this was correct but the
regulator may not have enough output ability to boost the system voltage
back to the proper range as the reg. was starting with a lower voltage.
So, the moral of the story, do not use certificated parts on your amateur
built aircraft, (kidding). Seriously forget the master switch & use toggle
switches. I am stuck with this rectangular hole cut into my panel &
wondering if I really want to pull it out & fill the area neatly somehow
with 2 toggle switches. Come to think of it, why did I buy a key switch in
the first place? I should have used toggles there as well.
Sorry to post such a long email. I do really hope this helps people in
designing a simple, inexpensive, easy to maintain & trouble free
panel. With the above changes, by Simple Z diagram is faultless.
Again many thanks to the above mentioned gentlemen & of course Bob Nuckolls
for a great system.
Now, back to building my RV-8.
Cheers
Brian Cross # 81844
Message 4
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| Subject: | AMP connector pin source |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I'm trying to locate a website where I can buy
AMP pins that go into a strobe AMP connector.
I'm sure someplace like Digikey has them, but
I can't find them on their website.
What I'm looking for is just the pins on
this page:
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/32/1901.htm?949
I've got a bunch that I bought from Steinair,
but they are not the same shape. Here is a photo:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=200508201734405
Thanks for any hints, or part numbers, or official
unique names!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: AMP connector pin source |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
just bought a bunch, to go with creativeair's strobe supply, from Digi-key
both for 20-14Awg, PhosphorBronze, pre-tin.
male pins A25561-ND
female pins A25562-ND
I also got some more 3 pin housings, A1400-ND pin housing and A25415-ND
socket housing, socket housing comes only in black from digi-key.
hope this helps.
Gert
they are on my Dec04 catalog, page 116&117, Commercial Mate-N-Lok connectors
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm trying to locate a website where I can buy
>AMP pins that go into a strobe AMP connector.
>
>I'm sure someplace like Digikey has them, but
>I can't find them on their website.
>
>What I'm looking for is just the pins on
>this page:
>
>http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/32/1901.htm?949
>
>I've got a bunch that I bought from Steinair,
>but they are not the same shape. Here is a photo:
>
>http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=200508201734405
>
>Thanks for any hints, or part numbers, or official
>unique names!
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Low System Voltage Troubleshooting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner <jdubner@yahoo.com>
On 20-Aug-05 09:28 Brian Cross wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Cross <bcross2160@rogers.com>
> Seriously forget the master switch & use toggle
> switches. I am stuck with this rectangular hole cut into my panel &
> wondering if I really want to pull it out & fill the area neatly somehow
> with 2 toggle switches. Come to think of it, why did I buy a key switch in
> the first place? I should have used toggles there as well.
>
Brian,
Thanks for sharing your troubleshooting and eventual success story.
Your finding is a great one to file away in my "bag of tricks".
Some prefer a Cessna-style ignition switch but like you I'd rather have
individual switches. I retrofitted my Long-EZ with a pushbutton (from
the aviation section of Walmart) for the starter and two guarded toggles
("racing parts" from AutoZone) for the magnetos. A small aluminum panel
will cover the large hole and allow you to mount your new switches if
you have the room. (YMMV; I couldn't fit everything in one place so I
used two aluminum panels in my aircraft.)
Before:
http://nicon.org/chapter328/jd/images/IgnitionSwBefore.jpg
After:
http://nicon.org/chapter328/jd/images/IgnitionSwAfter.jpg
--
Joe
Long-EZ 821RP
Message 7
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| Subject: | Transponder Certification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Jim Baker"
<jlbaker@telepath.com>
<<......skip....... FSDO and they said I could do it, but the XPDR will have
to
undergo the same inspections and checks that it would if it were installed
in
a GA plane.>>
Not if you don't want to. Jim Baker
8/19/2005
Hello Jim Baker, Are you saying that despite FAR Sec. 91.215 and FAR Sec.
91.413 that an ultralight owner / pilot can install just any old non TSO'd
and non currently inspected transponder that may be incompatible with ATC
equipment and fly around legally in the USA controlled airspace?
Please clarify. Thanks.
OC
Message 8
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| Subject: | recharge/jump start recepticle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "chris macy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Hi,
I'm looking for a way to be able to recharge or jumpstart my battery from outside
the plane which is in the back of an RV8.
What I have in mind is a receptacle which is flush with the bottom of the fuse
and has a rubber plug to seal it while not in use. I want the wire sized to be
able to handle the current of a jump start and bolted to the battery just like
the start/ground cables are. I am not aware I've seen something like this
before except for a bigger version like an APU jack in military aircraft but that's
overkill for an RV. But I thought I heard it discussed in past years on
the list but my archive search didn't turn up anything. I was hoping West Marine
would have something similar but I didn't find anything.
Any ideas?
thx,
lucky
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Low System Voltage Troubleshooting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Cross <bcross2160@rogers.com>
Hi Joe
Thanks very much for your great pictures & your thoughts. You did a great
job moving your switches around. I don't feel quite so silly for putting
the parts in that I did.
Happy flying
Brian
At 02:43 PM 8/20/2005, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner <jdubner@yahoo.com>
>
>On 20-Aug-05 09:28 Brian Cross wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Cross
> <bcross2160@rogers.com>
>
> > Seriously forget the master switch & use toggle
> > switches. I am stuck with this rectangular hole cut into my panel &
> > wondering if I really want to pull it out & fill the area neatly somehow
> > with 2 toggle switches. Come to think of it, why did I buy a key
> switch in
> > the first place? I should have used toggles there as well.
> >
>
>Brian,
>
>Thanks for sharing your troubleshooting and eventual success story.
>Your finding is a great one to file away in my "bag of tricks".
>
>Some prefer a Cessna-style ignition switch but like you I'd rather have
>individual switches. I retrofitted my Long-EZ with a pushbutton (from
>the aviation section of Walmart) for the starter and two guarded toggles
>("racing parts" from AutoZone) for the magnetos. A small aluminum panel
>will cover the large hole and allow you to mount your new switches if
>you have the room. (YMMV; I couldn't fit everything in one place so I
>used two aluminum panels in my aircraft.)
>
>Before:
> http://nicon.org/chapter328/jd/images/IgnitionSwBefore.jpg
>
>After:
> http://nicon.org/chapter328/jd/images/IgnitionSwAfter.jpg
>
>--
>Joe
>Long-EZ 821RP
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Certification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
> <<......skip....... FSDO and they said I could do it, but the XPDR
> will have to undergo the same inspections and checks that it would
if
> it were installed in a GA plane.>>
>
> Not if you don't want to. Jim Baker
>
> 8/19/2005
>
> Hello Jim Baker, Are you saying that despite FAR Sec. 91.215 and
FAR
> Sec. 91.413 that an ultralight owner / pilot can install just any old
> non TSO'd and non currently inspected transponder that may be
> incompatible with ATC equipment and fly around legally in the USA
> controlled airspace?
>
> Please clarify. Thanks.
Well....sort of. 91.215 says US registered civil aircraft. Find where
anyone, let alone the FAA, ever defines a part 103 vehicle as an
aircraft. They are routinely refered to as ultralight vehicles by part
103.
It then follows that if not applicable under 91.215, then 91.413
doesn't apply either.
Having said that, it seems that part 103.17, Operations in Certain
Airspace, would make it wise (well, more than wise actually), but not
mandatory, to have a unit that is capable of "data correspondence"
per 91.413, if your intent is to be precisely known as to location in the
ATC system. But again, it isn't mandated. The FAA did this to
themselves with the vehicle designation....
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
'71 SV, 492TC
Elmore City, OK
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: recharge/jump start recepticle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Chris,
See Aeroelectric Connection by Bob Nucolls. There is a paper that
describes an external connection compatible with many FBO's APUs that
you can build into your RV. That is what I built into my -6A and I use
it all the time when I want to run the avionics in the hangar. It would
serve for battery charging, etc. also.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
chris macy wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "chris macy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
>
>Hi,
>I'm looking for a way to be able to recharge or jumpstart my battery from outside
the plane which is in the back of an RV8.
>
>What I have in mind is a receptacle which is flush with the bottom of the fuse
and has a rubber plug to seal it while not in use. I want the wire sized to
be able to handle the current of a jump start and bolted to the battery just like
the start/ground cables are. I am not aware I've seen something like this
before except for a bigger version like an APU jack in military aircraft but
that's overkill for an RV. But I thought I heard it discussed in past years on
the list but my archive search didn't turn up anything. I was hoping West Marine
would have something similar but I didn't find anything.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>thx,
>lucky
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: recharge/jump start recepticle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Chris,
You might start in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog and look for the Piper
Type Socket p/n 11-00500
as one example. There are others on that page too. Bob Nuckoll's
Aeroelectric Connection site has schematics
for the particular installation you describe and it is good for jump
start and charging batteries as well.
I chose to put in two lighter sockets on a plate and place them in the
belly so that I can use battery tenders
for separate battery maintenence without the capacity to jump the
battery. I don't really want to fly a plane that
has to be jump started.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/electrical/full/chargeportassy2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/electrical/full/chargeportmount2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/electrical/full/chargeplugs.gif
The bottom has a removable plate cover with 2 dzus fasteners to seal it
when not being used.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
chris macy wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "chris macy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
>
>Hi,
>I'm looking for a way to be able to recharge or jumpstart my battery from outside
the plane which is in the back of an RV8.
>
>What I have in mind is a receptacle which is flush with the bottom of the fuse
and has a rubber plug to seal it while not in use. I want the wire sized to
be able to handle the current of a jump start and bolted to the battery just like
the start/ground cables are. I am not aware I've seen something like this
before except for a bigger version like an APU jack in military aircraft but
that's overkill for an RV. But I thought I heard it discussed in past years on
the list but my archive search didn't turn up anything. I was hoping West Marine
would have something similar but I didn't find anything.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>thx,
>lucky
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | recharge/jump start recepticle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jsto1@tampabay.rr.com>
You could consider either a Piper or Cessna auxillary power jack. I got
a complete salvaged jack system for my C172 from Wentworth for about
$125, but that was years ago. It included the brackets, contactor, and
harness. I have also seen just the jacks and plugs in AC Spruce (ACS),
without brackets or control system.
ACS has the AN2552-3A external power receptacle designed to mount in
hole in skin of aircraft. Hole is then covered with hinged access door
(not included). Mates with AN2551 type plugs. Model 4621B, JUMPER PLUG
#6216.
Jim Stone
Jabiru J450
Clearwater FL.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of chris
macy
Subject: AeroElectric-List: recharge/jump start recepticle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "chris macy"
--> <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Hi,
I'm looking for a way to be able to recharge or jumpstart my battery
from outside the plane which is in the back of an RV8.
What I have in mind is a receptacle which is flush with the bottom of
the fuse and has a rubber plug to seal it while not in use. I want the
wire sized to be able to handle the current of a jump start and bolted
to the battery just like the start/ground cables are. I am not aware
I've seen something like this before except for a bigger version like an
APU jack in military aircraft but that's overkill for an RV. But I
thought I heard it discussed in past years on the list but my archive
search didn't turn up anything. I was hoping West Marine would have
something similar but I didn't find anything.
Any ideas?
thx,
lucky
Message 14
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| Subject: | NSI New Chief Engineer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Hey AeroElectric Listers,
NSI Aero in Arlington, Washington has been having some organizational
problems recently.
I am pleased to pass on the information that LeGrand Harris, the new General
Manager, has asked Paul Messinger to be the new chief engineer.
Paul says, "There is a huge task ahead and my first task is to do an
engineering
analysis of the current mechanical and electrical designs and document
concerns and provide engineering updates, as required, both as a quick fix
and a long term fix as required. Documentation needs to be updated and
operations and limitations need to be written etc."
Let's all wish Paul the very best of luck in this exciting challenge.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
(508) 764-2072
(do not archive)
Don't worry about people stealing an idea. If it's original, you will have
to ram it down their throats."
-- Howard Aiken
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Hello AeroElectric subscribers,
I'm about to begin the wiring for my RV-4. Considered BMA's printed circut board
and PTC switch idea, but decided that was too expensive for my 12 circuits (about
$2K). Have ordered a Blue Sea 5026 fuse block ($40) and will use Bob's concept
of fly now, fix on the ground!
I have the following for the panel:
Dynon D10A
MicroAir T2000 transponder
XCOM Radio with built-in intercom
Flightcom i300
Pictorial Pilot wing leveler
Altrak altitude hold
GRT EIS
Narco 122D VOR/GS with marker beacon
Garmin 296
***Considering digital altimeter with encoder vs Dynons encoder or AK 350***
I have cables and pro-hub from Approach Systems for the XCOM, Transponder and Narco.
My question is what do I do to wire up the stick-grip push buttons? (PTT, Autopilot,
starter, electric fuel pump, radio frequency change)... how many can go
straight to a fuse, vs being regulated before going to the device?
The Blue Sea has 12 return ground terminals. Should I use these or run a seperate
ground block?
Appreciate your thoughts.
Ron
N8ZD - flying soon
n8zd@yahoo.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: NSI New Chief Engineer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
Eric -
What happened to Paul's effort with the ghost company (I don't recall
him ever parting with the name) to develop a "next generation aircraft
electrical system"... or something along those lines? Did he/they
shelve the design, scrap it, or is it now in his 'side work' pile?
Inquiring minds want to know (... well... mine does, anyway).
Pass along a congrats on the new gig!
D
-------
Eric M. Jones wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
> Hey AeroElectric Listers,
>
> NSI Aero in Arlington, Washington has been having some organizational
> problems recently.
>
> I am pleased to pass on the information that LeGrand Harris, the new General
> Manager, has asked Paul Messinger to be the new chief engineer.
>
> Paul says, "There is a huge task ahead and my first task is to do an
> engineering
> analysis of the current mechanical and electrical designs and document
> concerns and provide engineering updates, as required, both as a quick fix
> and a long term fix as required. Documentation needs to be updated and
> operations and limitations need to be written etc."
>
> Let's all wish Paul the very best of luck in this exciting challenge.
>
> Regards,
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge MA 01550-2705
> (508) 764-2072
>
> (do not archive)
>
> Don't worry about people stealing an idea. If it's original, you will have
> to ram it down their throats."
> -- Howard Aiken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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