Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:12 AM - Re: Re: Ammeter Shunt connection (Gianni Zuliani)
2. 05:50 AM - Re: Thermostatically Controlled Radiator (Guy Buchanan)
3. 08:54 AM - Re: panel design, was SNIMTA_SPAM (sarg314)
4. 11:09 AM - Re: Thermostatically Controlled Radiator Flap (Charlie England)
5. 11:22 AM - Re: Re: Ammeter Shunt connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 11:23 AM - Re: panel design (Eric M. Jones)
7. 04:55 PM - Re: Thermostatically Controlled Radiator Flap (Greg@itmack)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Ammeter Shunt connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gianni Zuliani" <gz@comgz.com>
You can use an airspeed indicator to fine-tune an approach, how
do you use a voltmeter or ammeter to fine-tune endurance?
Bob . . .
Maybe I'm too naive on the subject, but I thought that a battery loadmeter
would tell me:
1. at the beginning of the flight, if my battery is being charged properly
after engine starting depletion;
2. in case of alternator's failure in flight, how much electrical endurance
I am left, (provided that my battery was fully charged: see point 1), just
easily calculating X Amp*h / L Amp, where X is my battery's capacity and L
is the reading of my ammeter.
Where am I wrong, Bob?
Gianni Zuliani
Long-Ez >> Stag-Ez >> Stag-EzRG
http://www.comgz.com/tristar.htm
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Thermostatically Controlled Radiator |
Flap
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> Flap
At 06:35 PM 8/26/2005, you wrote:
...
> See if one of the Ray-Allen (Mac) servos would work.
I will.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: panel design, was SNIMTA_SPAM |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Dave:
I definitely agree. In my plane the switches are going to be in
groups of 3 with a gap (mising switch) between the groups. You have to
be able to find the right switch by feel. I've seriously considered
alternating toggle switches with rockers, but it would look kind of
strange. Many years ago I saw an article on cockpit design in Kitplanes
that made this same point. I just tried to dig up my copy of that
issue, but it seems to have been lost in the sands of time.
Dave Morris "BigD" wrote:
>Eric,
>
>My personal pet peeve is that little "row of identical switches" down under
>the yoke of most C-172s and similar, where you have to crane your neck down
>to find the strobe light switch or the avionics master or the nav lights.
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Thermostatically Controlled Radiator Flap |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Robert L. Nuckolls, III Flap wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Flap
>
>At 03:54 PM 8/26/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> Flap
>>
>>At 11:52 AM 8/26/2005, you wrote:
>>
>>...
>>
>>
>>
>>>Here is the actuator I plan to use in my subaru installation:
>>>
>>> http://www.dcactuators.com/Detail.asp?Product_ID=301.200_6176E
>>>
>>>
>>I'm thinking of something much, much, smaller; possibly even an RC servo. I
>>think my loads are going to be very low.
>>
>>
>
> See if one of the Ray-Allen (Mac) servos would work. These have
> feedback potentiometers and limit switches built in. This will
> be necessary for proper control of the air-door position. You'll
> want to design your linkage between door and actuator such that
> the door is exactly close when one limit switch operates and
> fully open when the opposite switch actuates. If you use the
> actuator cited, then you'll need to add an external potentiometer . . .
> not difficult but it drives up parts count in the wrong places.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Here's a manual electric cowl flap on a friend's RV-6. He's making
between 150-160 hp with his particular setup & needed an electric (wing)
flap motor for enough strength to retract the flap. Details on the web
site. Very nice guy & willing to share his experiences if you need more
info. Link at the bottom of the web page.
http://www.weslick.com/cooling.htm
Charlie
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Ammeter Shunt connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:10 AM 8/27/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gianni Zuliani" <gz@comgz.com>
>
> You can use an airspeed indicator to fine-tune an approach, how
> do you use a voltmeter or ammeter to fine-tune endurance?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>Maybe I'm too naive on the subject, but I thought that a battery loadmeter
>would tell me:
>1. at the beginning of the flight, if my battery is being charged properly
>after engine starting depletion;
IF you have a well-maintained battery and IF your bus voltage is
where it belongs, then your battery WILL be properly charged.
>2. in case of alternator's failure in flight, how much electrical endurance
>I am left, (provided that my battery was fully charged: see point 1), just
>easily calculating X Amp*h / L Amp, where X is my battery's capacity and L
>is the reading of my ammeter.
Somewhat correct. But keep in mind that useful capacity is a function
of load. Batteries are generally RATED at a 20 hour discharge rate.
I'll call your attention to the data sheet for an exemplar 17 a.h.
battery at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Batteries/Panasonic/lc-rd1217p.pdf
Note in chart of characteristics on left the available output
energy at different discharge rates. Note that it meets nameplate
ratings at the 20 hour rate (.85A). If your alternator-out discharge
rates are something like 4A, you can expect to get somewhere between
10 and 13 a.h. of output . . . probably about 12 for an endurance
of 3 hours and then only if the battery's capacity is a KNOWN
value.
I've suggested many times that it is better to have a KNOWN plan-B
load which produces a KNOWN endurance assuming that your battery
is properly maintained. So, when the low voltage light comes on,
you position a couple of switches and truck on KNOWING that your
battery only endurance exceeds some predicted and planned value.
If you've conducted such advance planning, then you don't need
a battery ammeter or any other real-time instrument to fuss and
fret over wondering how much stuff you can run or can't run
. . . or wonder what shape that battery is in because you haven't
touched it in a couple of years.
>Where am I wrong, Bob?
The point I'm trying to illustrate is that displaying real-time
electrical system data for the purpose of managing a failure
event ADDS to workload and may not materially alter the outcome
of the flight. Working from the perspective of KNOWING what
energy is on board and parceling it out in accordance with
a PLAN is the best way to keep the failure from adding to
workload and ASSURE the desired outcome.
Review chapter 17 in the 'Connection . . .
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: panel design |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sarg314 sarg314@comcast.net
> Many years ago I saw an article on cockpit design in Kitplanes
>that made this same point. I just tried to dig up my copy of that
>issue, but it seems to have been lost in the sands of time.
Dear Sarge--
From an earlier post--
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/avionics_electronics/7273-1.phtml
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/avionics_electronics/7272-1.phtml
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/avionics_electronics/7271-1.phtml
But there is a key idea on the "switches at your knees"--and I suggest
Googling any cockpit photos of recent vintage commercial liners to see
these:
1) Your knees will be rammed into them in an accident if they are where
Cessna put them.
2) The "best practice" seem to be to put all switches overhead; on the
center console if any; on the sides if possible; and on a brow at the the
top of the panel which also serves as a sunshield. The last is my favorite.
For OBAM small airplane use, this is probably the best place for switches
and annunciators.
Whatever you do---Put NO switches on the lower panel in front of your knees.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
(508) 764-2072
"Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid."
-John Wayne
Message 7
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From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
Subject: | Re: Thermostatically Controlled Radiator Flap |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net> Flap
>
> At 08:52 PM 8/26/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> ><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> >
> > > Is there anyone on the list who can wrangle
> > > the PIC series microcontrollers from Microchip?
> > > I have the development systems but just don't
> > > have time to add this to a long list of higher
> > > priority projects. I can spend the time to craft
> > > a schematic, bill of materials and write the
> > > software requirements but I'm going to need some
> > > help to write and debug the software.
> > >
> > > Bob . . .
> >
> >Here is the actuator I plan to use in my subaru installation:
> >
> > http://www.dcactuators.com/Detail.asp?Product_ID=301.200_6176E
> >
> >According to the data sheet, it has [a] "potentiometer built in
> >for actuator positioning (use your microcontroller to determine
> >and precisely control actuator positioning)"
> >
> >I hope you find a volunteer! :-) I'd love to do it, but I
> >want to get my airplane flying this year. Really!
>
> If I read the data sheet correctly, there are NONE potentiometers . .
> and we WILL need one.
>
> Bob . . .
On the spec sheet it has it as an option. A microswitch is included though.
Greg
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