Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:29 AM - Re: Power FET's (Paul McAllister)
2. 06:27 AM - Re: LVW problem (N1deltawhiskey@aol.com)
3. 06:55 AM - Re: Dumb question time (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 07:20 AM - Re: Dumb question time (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:35 AM - Re: Dumb question time (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
6. 07:47 AM - Re: Dumb question time (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
7. 08:36 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 09/12/05 (Ernest Christley)
8. 09:13 AM - Re: SPAM::PM alternator on Mazda engine. (Rogers, Bob J.)
9. 01:55 PM - Re: Dumb question time (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 02:04 PM - Re: LVW problem (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 02:09 PM - Re: Power FET's (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 02:09 PM - Re: ARC R402A Marker Pin out (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 02:11 PM - Re: SPAM::PM alternator on Mazda engine. (William)
14. 04:40 PM - Re: size for fuseable link (CardinalNSB@aol.com)
15. 05:26 PM - Alternator field breaker (Jim Stone)
16. 08:06 PM - Re: Alternator field breaker (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 08:08 PM - Ground power for your airplane (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 10:35 PM - Re: Re: size for fuseable link (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 10:35 PM - Re: Alternator field breaker (Matt Prather)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi,
I seemed to omit the most relevant piece of data.... I am looking for
devices in the 100~200 amp range. I am building an airplane tug and was
intending to set them up in a bridge. The motor is 24 volts.
Paul
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Power FET's
>
> How many do you need? What voltage and current ratings? I might
> have some in my junk-box.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
Bob,
Thanks. All of my wiring gear is at the hanger, so won't be doing this until
next weekend.
But in reading your response, I may have identified a/the problem. On the
drawing I have, I interpreted the ground pin (-) as 5 rather than 6, and that is
how I wired it. After looking more closely at the drawing, the 5's are
different from the 6's - field of view (mentally) just wasn't broad enough.
Think any damage was done with pin 5 grounded? I guess I will find out when
I rewire and test it.
Regards, Doug
In a message dated 11-Sep-05 23:55:18 Pacific Standard Time,
nuckollsr@cox.net writes:
>Bob,
>
>I have your AEC9005-101 LVW. I am not using the battery management feature,
>so have just connected the fused positive and ground wires along with the LED
>wires to the unit.
>
>I have not seen this unit work as expected. I verified continuity of the
>positive and ground wiring connections (overlooked checking the LED
>connections
>to be sure they were right today), but found no apparent issues with the
>wiring.
>
>I thought I would try something else, connection the positive and ground
>directly to a battery. It still did not work, but shortly thereafter I
>smelled hot
>insulation. I touched the wires leading to the LVM and didn't bother to hang
>on - just disconnected the battery real quick.
>
>Any idea of what the problem might be? How can I get this working properly?
>Could incorrectly wired LED wires cause this problem? (I will check those
>next
>time at the hanger.) Is it a defective unit?
I've never had one returned. They're easy to check. Get a
9-pin d-sub female connector from Radio Shack or other
handy source. Short pins 2 and 3 together. Put leadwires
on pins 4 (+in) and 6 (ground). Plug your LVW/ABMM
module into this connector and then connect the pin 4
wire to (+) on your car battery and pin 6 wire to (-)
or ground. Engine should not be running for this test.
If the module is okay, it the LED on the module will be
flashing. Start the engine and repeat the test. The
LED should not be flashing.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dumb question time |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> I have an electrically dependant airplane (Lycoming with electric fuel
> pumps only).
(((((((You need to consider if there are alternative ways to relieve this
issue compared with a bullet proof electric setup. Perhaps a mechnical pump
inline with the electric. Your future could depend on it.)))))))
>
> I see from the Z figures that there is no fuseable link in the Batt buss
> feed from the battery, the wire is pretty thin and short 6" or less.
(((((((((If this wire shorts out, you lose power and maybe start a fire.
The shorter the better for fire protection in case of accident. Protect it
well from abuse, ie, chaffing.)))))))))
>
> In my case the feed wire will need to be about 1.5 feet and capable of
> supporting a load of about 16 amps max running.
(((((Nothing wrong here that I see.)))))))))
>
> Considering the engine will make like a glider if this lead shorts to
> ground (it will be well protected!) what size of wire should I install
> and should I install an automotive fuse link...Working on the principle
> that a glider is better than a glider with a cockpit fire?
(((((((((((The manual of aeroelectric Bob is a good source for determining
wire size by length and amp usage. Use it for all your wire selection when
amp use is known. If you have a short without some breaker or fuse you
might have a fire -- you will lose power regardless of how big your wire is
one way or the other. Better to use a fuse of some sort, like the one B&C
and others sell. For example, look at the fuse link that lectric Bob
schmenatics show going from the alternator output. That would
work.)))))))))))))
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
(((((((((((Indiana Larry RV7 wired per lectric Bob's schmenatics)))))))))
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dumb question time |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 02:18 PM 9/12/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> I have an electrically dependant airplane (Lycoming with electric fuel
>pumps only).
>
>I see from the Z figures that there is no fuseable link in the Batt buss
>feed from the battery, the wire is pretty thin and short 6" or less.
>
>In my case the feed wire will need to be about 1.5 feet and capable of
>supporting a load of about 16 amps max running.
Why 1.5 feet? Battery busses are classically located right
next to the battery . . . tradition in the certified side tells
us that small, short wires from high current feed sources can
be used without protection for that wire . . . it becomes
its own fusible link!
>Considering the engine will make like a glider if this lead shorts to
>ground (it will be well protected!) what size of wire should I install
>and should I install an automotive fuse link...Working on the principle
>that a glider is better than a glider with a cockpit fire?
You've answered your own question. FAT wires for cranking, while
potentially strong sources for electrically induced sparks and heat
are not fused because (1) they are well protected and (2) the currents
they supply in a fault tend to burn away the faulting condition. Long
battery cables through lightening holes under the floor will burn a
little half-moon clearance in the edge of the hole and all the sparking
stops. If you plan to well protect your unusually long, always hot
feeder, then while non-conforming with certified tradition, your
risks are exceedingly low. I'd rather see you put the battery bus
AT the battery but I wouldn't loose any sleep over it if you didn't.
A 1.5 foot feeder isn't a big deal.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Dumb question time |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Thanks Larry,
Yes there are two independent pumps however (I have this setup on my
current airplane and am comfortable with it). This is a very similar
setup to what pretty much all the automotive engined airplanes run. The
only single point of failure is the battery feed wire and the battery
itself.
Actually, just thinking about it, I could simply run a second feed wire
from the battery with a fuse link to an independent fuse just for the
second pump, seems overkill but for 50 cents worth of wire it would
remove the fuse link as the sole barrier from me and eternity.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LarryRobertHelming
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dumb question time
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
--> <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> I have an electrically dependant airplane (Lycoming with electric fuel
> pumps only).
(((((((You need to consider if there are alternative ways to relieve
this issue compared with a bullet proof electric setup. Perhaps a
mechnical pump inline with the electric. Your future could depend on
it.)))))))
>
> I see from the Z figures that there is no fuseable link in the Batt
> buss feed from the battery, the wire is pretty thin and short 6" or
less.
(((((((((If this wire shorts out, you lose power and maybe start a fire.
The shorter the better for fire protection in case of accident. Protect
it well from abuse, ie, chaffing.)))))))))
>
> In my case the feed wire will need to be about 1.5 feet and capable of
> supporting a load of about 16 amps max running.
(((((Nothing wrong here that I see.)))))))))
>
> Considering the engine will make like a glider if this lead shorts to
> ground (it will be well protected!) what size of wire should I install
> and should I install an automotive fuse link...Working on the
> principle that a glider is better than a glider with a cockpit fire?
(((((((((((The manual of aeroelectric Bob is a good source for
determining wire size by length and amp usage. Use it for all your wire
selection when amp use is known. If you have a short without some
breaker or fuse you might have a fire -- you will lose power regardless
of how big your wire is one way or the other. Better to use a fuse of
some sort, like the one B&C and others sell. For example, look at the
fuse link that lectric Bob schmenatics show going from the alternator
output. That would
work.)))))))))))))
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
(((((((((((Indiana Larry RV7 wired per lectric Bob's
schmenatics)))))))))
Message 6
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| Subject: | Dumb question time |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Thanks...Ahh I wondered if the 16ga wire was supposed to act as its own
fuse that answers that one.
The unusually long feeder was such that I could get to it easily to
maintain the buss. On the RV if you out it right on the back of the
firewall it will be tough to get to. I have spent a few excutiating
hours on my back in the footwell so this seems a way to avoid that
possibility.
Thanks for your help.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dumb question time
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 02:18 PM 9/12/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> I have an electrically dependant airplane (Lycoming with electric
>fuel pumps only).
>
>I see from the Z figures that there is no fuseable link in the Batt
>buss feed from the battery, the wire is pretty thin and short 6" or
less.
>
>In my case the feed wire will need to be about 1.5 feet and capable of
>supporting a load of about 16 amps max running.
Why 1.5 feet? Battery busses are classically located right
next to the battery . . . tradition in the certified side tells
us that small, short wires from high current feed sources can
be used without protection for that wire . . . it becomes
its own fusible link!
>Considering the engine will make like a glider if this lead shorts to
>ground (it will be well protected!) what size of wire should I install
>and should I install an automotive fuse link...Working on the principle
>that a glider is better than a glider with a cockpit fire?
You've answered your own question. FAT wires for cranking, while
potentially strong sources for electrically induced sparks and heat
are not fused because (1) they are well protected and (2) the
currents
they supply in a fault tend to burn away the faulting condition.
Long
battery cables through lightening holes under the floor will burn a
little half-moon clearance in the edge of the hole and all the
sparking
stops. If you plan to well protect your unusually long, always hot
feeder, then while non-conforming with certified tradition, your
risks are exceedingly low. I'd rather see you put the battery bus
AT the battery but I wouldn't loose any sleep over it if you didn't.
A 1.5 foot feeder isn't a big deal.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 09/12/05 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>
AeroElectric-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>Time: 08:45:12 AM PST US
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bringing alternator on line after engine start.
>From: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
>
>My confusion is with the warning in the service manual that I should not
>start the engine unless the (main) alternator is already on line. I do
>not know the purpose for the warning and I do not comprehend the
>possible consequences of waiting to bring the primary alternator on
>line.
>
Bob, think of your foot on the clutch. Do you intentionally rev the
engine to redline, and then let your foot slide off the bottom of the
clutch pedal? No (unless you're in high school and someone else is
buying your tires 8*).
You can think of the alternator along the same lines. The regulator
works (kinda, sorta) like your foot on the clutch to transfer the insies
to the outsies in a controlled manner. The Mazda Service Manual wants
the power to come online in a slow, controlled manner so that the
regulator can adjust. You don't want to just throw the power on it.
You might snap your driveline....er, burn a wire.
Cutting the alternator's output line when it is heavily loaded burns up
an alternator in the same manner. It's analogous to towing a load up a
steep mountain grade and having the driveshaft snap. Can you get your
foot off the pedal fast enough not to throw a rod? Maybe, maybe not.
But a lot of guys will express a few choice words as they wait for the
guage to fall back to reasonable.
--
,|"|"|, |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta |
o| d |o www.ernest.isa-geek.org |
Message 8
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| Subject: | PM alternator on Mazda engine. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
It is on a custom made bracket at the bottom of the engine, in-line with
the other alternator. One belt from the eccentric shaft pulley drives
the primary alternator and the other drives the PM alternator. Both
belts drive the water pump.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
William
Subject: SPAM::AeroElectric-List: PM alternator on Mazda engine.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William"
<wschertz@ispwest.com>
Bob,
Where are you locating the PM alternator?
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045
Mazda 13-B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bringing alternator on line after engine
start.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J."
> <BRogers@fdic.gov>
>
> I am building a Mustang II kit plane with a Mazda Rotary 13B engine
for
> power. The stock alternator is a 60 amp internally regulated
> Mitsubishi, which will be my primary source of electrical power. In
> addition to the stock alternator, I also have a John Deere 35 amp
> permanent magnet (PM) alternator for a backup.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Dumb question time |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:45 AM 9/13/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>Thanks...Ahh I wondered if the 16ga wire was supposed to act as its own
>fuse that answers that one.
>
>The unusually long feeder was such that I could get to it easily to
>maintain the buss. On the RV if you out it right on the back of the
>firewall it will be tough to get to. I have spent a few excutiating
>hours on my back in the footwell so this seems a way to avoid that
>possibility.
That will work.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:26 AM 9/13/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
>
>Bob,
>
>Thanks. All of my wiring gear is at the hanger, so won't be doing this until
>next weekend.
>
>But in reading your response, I may have identified a/the problem. On the
>drawing I have, I interpreted the ground pin (-) as 5 rather than 6, and
>that is
>how I wired it. After looking more closely at the drawing, the 5's are
>different from the 6's - field of view (mentally) just wasn't broad enough.
>
>Think any damage was done with pin 5 grounded? I guess I will find out when
>I rewire and test it.
>
>Regards, Doug
Pins 4, 5 and 9 are all tied together as +14v bus. 3, 6, 7, and 8 are
all tied together as ground. Grounding pin 5 would put a short to
ground on your +input lead and should open the breaker or fuse.
The worst thing that happens is that you might burn a trace on the
board.
I do note that the installation instruction diagrams print the
9005-100 wiring in red which makes it hard to read and easy to
mistake the "5" as a "6". I'll see about fixing that so the
drawing is easier to read. Thanks for the heads-up. If your
LVW/ABMM module is damaged, I'd be pleased to repair it
at no charge.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:28 AM 9/13/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
><paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
>Hi,
>
>I seemed to omit the most relevant piece of data.... I am looking for
>devices in the 100~200 amp range. I am building an airplane tug and was
>intending to set them up in a bridge. The motor is 24 volts.
>
>Paul
Don't think you'll find individual TO-3 devices with that kind
of capability. Unlike junction transistors, you can parallel
FETS for more current handling capability. What you REALLY want
is the lowest practical ON-resistance for the voltage rating of
interest. Why TO-3? There are some really nice, big-dog FETS
in the TO-247 package (IRFP2907 is typical). See:
http://ec.irf.com/v6/en/US/adirect/ir?cmd=catProductDetailFrame&productID=IRFP2907
It has higher resistance cousins with higher votlage ratings.
You can parallel as needed for current rating.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: ARC R402A Marker Pin out |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 05:44 PM 9/12/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill and Marsha"
><docyukon@ptcnet.net>
>
> Can any one supply me with a sys.pinout for a R402A
> Marker? Thanks Bill S.
Sorry, not in my data base.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: PM alternator on Mazda engine. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William" <wschertz@ispwest.com>
Could you send a picture?
Thanks
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
Subject: RE: SPAM::AeroElectric-List: PM alternator on Mazda engine.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J."
> <BRogers@fdic.gov>
>
> It is on a custom made bracket at the bottom of the engine, in-line with
> the other alternator. One belt from the eccentric shaft pulley drives
> the primary alternator and the other drives the PM alternator. Both
> belts drive the water pump.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> William
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: SPAM::AeroElectric-List: PM alternator on Mazda engine.
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William"
> <wschertz@ispwest.com>
>
> Bob,
> Where are you locating the PM alternator?
>
> Bill Schertz
> KIS Cruiser # 4045
> Mazda 13-B
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bringing alternator on line after engine
> start.
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J."
>> <BRogers@fdic.gov>
>>
>> I am building a Mustang II kit plane with a Mazda Rotary 13B engine
> for
>> power. The stock alternator is a 60 amp internally regulated
>> Mitsubishi, which will be my primary source of electrical power. In
>> addition to the stock alternator, I also have a John Deere 35 amp
>> permanent magnet (PM) alternator for a backup.
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: size for fuseable link |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CardinalNSB@aol.com
The installation manual for the Electronics International engine monitor
UGB16 calls for 1 amp fuses on the "voltage" input line (for the voltage
reading) and on the ammenter "shunt" line, to be placed near the shunt which is
on
the engine side of the firewall. I would like to use a fuseable link instead
of a fuse holder, is there any reason not?
I plan on 24awg (because of the low amperage, I know the Bob recommended is
22awg) for the link to protect 18awg. How long should the 24awg be? Any
other recommendations?
Thank you, Skip Simpson
Message 15
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| Subject: | Alternator field breaker |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Can someone please tell me if an alternator field breaker is required prior to
the switch that controls it
Can I use a slot in my fuze panel instead?
Others have used 5amps to protect the circuit, does this sound about right?
Thanks,
Jim
HRII
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field breaker |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 08:24 PM 9/13/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>Can someone please tell me if an alternator field breaker is required
>prior to the switch that controls it
>Can I use a slot in my fuze panel instead?
>Others have used 5amps to protect the circuit, does this sound about right?
>Thanks,
>Jim
>HRII
You can run a fuse if you don't use crowbar ov protection.
It's the design goal of crowbar ov protection to deliberately
open the upstream power protection . . . a CB has been
recommended for ease of dealing with any nuisance trips.
If you don't have ov protection or use some form of series
switch ov protection, then supplying field current through
a fuse is fine.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Ground power for your airplane |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
The Samlex 13.8 volt, 23 amp supplies I used to sell for about
$175 are now down to $100 retail. See
http://www.aaradio.com/cartfile/misc%20html/samlex.html
for an exemplar offer. I just purchased one of these for a
customer's project and found that I can now buy them retail
for less than I used to pay for them wholesale!
This is an excellent device for powering up all but the
most power hungry gizmos in your airplane during construction
or ground maintenance operations.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------------------
< Throughout history, poverty is the normal condition >
< of man. Advances which permit this norm to be >
< exceeded -- here and there, now and then -- are the >
< work of an extremely small minority, frequently >
< despised, often condemned, and almost always opposed >
< by all right-thinking people. Whenever this tiny >
< minority is kept from creating, or (as sometimes >
< happens) is driven out of a society, the people >
< then slip back into abject poverty. >
< >
< This is known as "bad luck". >
< -Lazarus Long- >
<------------------------------------------------------>
http://www.aeroelectric.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: size for fuseable link |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:38 PM 9/13/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CardinalNSB@aol.com
>
>The installation manual for the Electronics International engine monitor
>UGB16 calls for 1 amp fuses on the "voltage" input line (for the voltage
>reading) and on the ammenter "shunt" line, to be placed near the shunt
>which is on
>the engine side of the firewall. I would like to use a fuseable
>link instead
>of a fuse holder, is there any reason not?
>
>I plan on 24awg (because of the low amperage, I know the Bob recommended is
>22awg) for the link to protect 18awg. How long should the 24awg be? Any
>other recommendations?
>
>Thank you, Skip Simpson
Fusible part needs to be 4awg steps or more SMALLER than the
strand of wire to be protected. 24AWG would be used with
20AWG. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/fuselink/fuselink.html
What you propose would be okay. B&C has the fusible link
kits which include the fiberglas sleeving shown in the
fabrication article.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field breaker |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Hi Jim,
Do you have a crowbar over voltage protection system? If so, it is
somewhat conceivable that you might get a nuisance trip of that system
which would cause the fuse to be blown. That would disable the charging
system for the duration of that flight unless the fuse panel is mounted in
a place accessible to the pilot. Don't get us going on the topic of
whether fuses should be accessible in flight unless you want another long
discussion (check the archive).
It would, however, be logical to replace the switch with a pullable breaker.
Regards,
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
> <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
> Can someone please tell me if an alternator field breaker is required
> prior to the switch that controls it Can I use a slot in my fuze panel
> instead?
> Others have used 5amps to protect the circuit, does this sound about
> right? Thanks,
> Jim
> HRII
>
>
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