Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A alternator (Mickey Coggins)
2. 12:42 AM - Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) (Jim Jewell)
3. 12:49 AM - Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) (Jim Jewell)
4. 04:22 AM - Re: Solid State Gyros (Rico Voss)
5. 06:26 AM - Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) (James H Nelson)
6. 10:39 AM - Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 11:15 AM - Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A alternator (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
8. 12:06 PM - Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A alternator (Matt Prather)
9. 01:08 PM - Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 01:09 PM - Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 01:54 PM - Re: Hobbs meter wiring (D Wysong)
12. 02:35 PM - Re: Hobbs meter wiring (Jim Baker)
13. 03:12 PM - Re: Hobbs meter wiring (Matt Prather)
14. 04:41 PM - Not quite electrical (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
15. 07:21 PM - Re: Not quite electrical (LarryRobertHelming)
16. 08:07 PM - (bob noffs)
17. 08:20 PM - Re: (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 09:01 PM - Re: (Jim Jewell)
19. 09:01 PM - Re: (Jim Jewell)
20. 09:04 PM - Re: ()
21. 09:25 PM - Re: (Sigmo@aol.com)
22. 09:26 PM - Re: (Richard E. Tasker)
23. 11:32 PM - Re: (HCRV6@comcast.net)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> If ALL ND alternators have a bus sense lead (and
> from what I've been able to deduce so far, they
> do) this opens some VERY interesting opportunities for
> crafting a positive ON/OFF control scheme that meets
> the design goals I've suggested for integration of
> the internally regulated alternator into aircraft.
> I'll continue to pursue this line of thinking and
> share my findings and deductions with the group at
> some time in the not too distant future.
My ND alternator does not have an independent bus sense
lead, but perhaps it is sensing this via the IGN terminal?
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=2004112513263691
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Terry,
I don't remember the brand name of the belt you might be thinking of:
The camshaft grinding company that provided a space for us to maintain
various race cars used a leather multi-link type belt on their cam grinding
lathes.
They use this type of belt because the multiple leather links absorbed
vibrations transmitted to and from the drive motor during the finishing
stage of grinding cams. This allowed the operator to reduce if not eliminate
the almost microscopic ripples on the finished cam lobe surfaces that would
be present if a standard vee belt was used.
I would be wary of using this type of belt as the RPM limit and loading
might be beyond the design capability of these belts. Checking for
application suitability with the manufacturer before use would be a must!
There might be a non leather variety out there.
Though unlikely, each link has a metal clip that might cause trouble should
a failure occur while airborne. Standard vee belts failure mode is most
often benign. The belt breaks and falls away.
However. if the broken belt somehow comes to rest on the exhaust it could
make for some precision upholstery button removal! {[8-o
Keep the battery up.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
> <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> I recall seeing v-belts that were made up of removable links. The
> advantage
> was claimed to be that you could adjust the length to fit. It would seem
> to
> be an excellent spare that you could install to get home without pulling
> the
> prop, IF they work. Does anyone have any experience of knowledge of them?
>
> Terry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed
> Anderson
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed)
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
> <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Strongly support Bob's suggestion of using Gates Belts for alternator.
> Prevention is always better than the cure..
>
> I used a less expensive brand of belt once and after only 20 hours, a
> keen
> eyed Nephew fortunately notice that "cogs" were missing from the belt.
> Replaced the belts immediately with Gates and after 160 hours they still
> appear brand new.
>
> Ed Anderson
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi again Terry,
I found this link to a site that seems to have some good information re
multilink type vee belts.
http://www.fennerindustrial.com/products/powertwist_ind.html
I hope this helps,
Jim in Kelowna
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Solid State Gyros |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rico Voss <vozzen@yahoo.com>
--- Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
> <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Deke,
> Take a serious look at their Model 4000 pictured on the
> link below, for
> the new Horizon EFIS.
> http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/
> Seriously good people to deal with.
Also--
I dont think I've seen mentioned the Blue Mountain
EFIS-Lite/G3. Looks similar, but includes internal GPS w.
moving map for the same $2800. Is it time for some
competitive price-reductions?? See:
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/elitemain.php
--Richard, 601-XL, Jab3300
do not archive
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Terry,
I sell that type of belting. Its a urethane based product so it
fairly tough and chemically resistant. Its drawback is the flexability
in the length mode. Its a great backup item. You just need to know that
you will need to install it in the shortest configuration because it
streaches due to the links taking up the slack as you tension the belt.
Not a biggie, just a heads up. I had not thought about it myself but now
you have raised the issue, I will put several feet (determined after I
get my engine installed) in my maintenance cubby under the floor in the
back. By the way, it only takes a pair of pliers to adjust the length.
The belt does not have any metal in it. It will carry the same loads as
a standard belt. Its rather expensive in comparison to a regular v-belt.
But, it beats removing the prop some where (not at home).
Jim Nelson
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A |
alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:09 AM 9/27/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> > If ALL ND alternators have a bus sense lead (and
> > from what I've been able to deduce so far, they
> > do) this opens some VERY interesting opportunities for
> > crafting a positive ON/OFF control scheme that meets
> > the design goals I've suggested for integration of
> > the internally regulated alternator into aircraft.
> > I'll continue to pursue this line of thinking and
> > share my findings and deductions with the group at
> > some time in the not too distant future.
>
>
>My ND alternator does not have an independent bus sense
>lead, but perhaps it is sensing this via the IGN terminal?
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=2004112513263691
Aha! A two-lead version. Can't speak directly to the
control philosophy in ND's regulator chip but similar
devices offered to the same market will watch the bus
sense lead and if there is no connection, the chip reverts
to b-lead sense mode. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Alternator_Data/MC33099_Schematic.pdf
This schematic is an exemplar regulator chip offered
by Freestyle (Motorola). This is a pretty "busy" chip!
In 1975, the functional equivalents to this device had about
8 transistors, a couple of precision zeners and a relay.
In the upper left corner of the schematic we see the automatic
changeover from local to remote sensing of regulation voltage
depending on whether or not the remote sense pin is hooked to
anything interesting. In the lower right corner, we see the
current and temperature limited lamp driver circuit which
allows one to make a hard connection between LAMP and IGN
terminals without serious risk to the chip.
A further feature of note is what's called an OVER VOLTAGE
DETECTOR in the middle. No doubt this section of the chip
has some functionality for the implied purpose. However,
nobody I know of in the aviation world would consider an
embedded OV protection circuit to have adequate separation
between CONTROL and PROTECTION. While a citation for
"Built in ov protection" looks good on the marketing hype
for any alternator that uses this chip, it's a huge
stretch to assume that all failure modes capable of
precipitating an OV condition will be sufficiently isolated
from the OV protection system to pass muster for a certified
power generation system for aircraft.
It's interesting to note that OV protection of ANY kind
is included on the chip. If the chip manufacturer held
their product to the same levels of infallibility as
those who preach the gospel of running internally
regulated alternators barefooted, why would they find
it useful to include ANY form of OV protection in their
product (in spite of its minimal levels of protection)?
This little study of schematics and/or block diagrams
is crucial to a learned critical design review and
failure mode effects analysis. Not having such
data for the ND regulators is the primary reason I've
been reluctant to endorse these products for indiscriminate
use on aircraft. The product may be just fine but without
such data for analysis, I can't encourage their use
from a position of understanding.
In response to the question about remote bus sensing,
it's really easy to identify the sensing method of
a particular alternator/regulator combination. Add
a temporary diode in series with the wire that
carries bus voltage toward the alternator system.
If that wire is truly a bus-sense connection, bus voltage
will jump up about 0.6v while the diode is in place and
go back down when it's removed.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hmmm...and similarly...If the volt sensing lead got disconnected the
Alternator would sense "zero volts" and presumably go to max output?
Maybe then, this is a good reason NOT to have an alt with a separate
sensing lead??
Frank
If that wire is truly a bus-sense connection, bus voltage
will jump up about 0.6v while the diode is in place and
go back down when it's removed.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Uh... Mmm.. Actually, it looks like there's circuitry in there to detect
that condition and fail over to running with the internal reference from
the B-lead. Check it out... The Vrem is fed to both an input buffer and
a comparator circuit with (presumably) a diode pulled up to 0.6V. If the
Vrs (tapped from the voltage divider driven by Vrem) drops below 0.6, the
comparator will flip states, causing the input source select to change
from remote sense to local.. At least that's the way it looks to me.
Regards,
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
> (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hmmm...and similarly...If the volt sensing lead got disconnected the
> Alternator would sense "zero volts" and presumably go to max output?
>
> Maybe then, this is a good reason NOT to have an alt with a separate
> sensing lead??
>
> Frank
>
> If that wire is truly a bus-sense connection, bus voltage
> will jump up about 0.6v while the diode is in place and
> go back down when it's removed.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A |
alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:05 PM 9/27/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
>
>Uh... Mmm.. Actually, it looks like there's circuitry in there to detect
>that condition and fail over to running with the internal reference from
>the B-lead. Check it out... The Vrem is fed to both an input buffer and
>a comparator circuit with (presumably) a diode pulled up to 0.6V. If the
>Vrs (tapped from the voltage divider driven by Vrem) drops below 0.6, the
>comparator will flip states, causing the input source select to change
>from remote sense to local.. At least that's the way it looks to me.
That's correct . . . and the feature I was attempting to point out.
If you hook up the remote sense, it performs as expected. If you don't
hook it up, the alternator defaults to v-sense internally at the b-lead.
The concept and value of remote sensing via a zero current conductor is
not well understood. I'm not surprised that few if any folks giving
advice suggest
using it. Then, there's the 2-wire alternators that omit this
feature entirely. The "universal" installation calls for allowing
a 3-lead machine to default to b-lead sensing. One installation schematic
fits all.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | FW: Wiring details for Vans 60A |
alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 11:11 AM 9/27/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>Hmmm...and similarly...If the volt sensing lead got disconnected the
>Alternator would sense "zero volts" and presumably go to max output?
>
>Maybe then, this is a good reason NOT to have an alt with a separate
>sensing lead??
Every regulator I've designed defaults to a secondary if
less accurate sense path if the primary sense path is lost.
Alternatively, the system is designed for passive shutdown
if either (+) or (-) sense leads become disconnected. Such
is the case with the Motorola chip as well.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Hobbs meter wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
Rodney -
How much current does your Hobbs draw? The 914F manual that I have says
that the Ducati "L" (lamp) line is good for a 3W/12V bulb. Seems like a
neat idea if that's enough juice to power the Hobbs.
BTW - thanks for the heads up on the lamp logic! I had assumed that the
operation of the "charge-indicating lamp" would be just the opposite...
"off" during normal operation and "on" if the system was not charging
(like the red ALT lamp in a ratty old C-150).
D
Rodney Dunham wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rodney Dunham" <rdunhamtn@hotmail.com>
>
> I've noticed on the Rotax 912UL wiring diagrams that the "L" pin on the VR
> is for a lamp which indicates charge and is usually only "on" at run-up
> speed or greater.
>
> Has anyone tried using this as a DCV source for the Hobbs meter? Seems it
> would give good "flying time" readings and, or course, no falsely high "I
> left the master switch on overnight" readings! Only engine on and RPM's
> above warm-up times.
>
> I was thinking run a wire to the meter with an in-line fuse, say 3 amps,
> would do the trick.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Rodney in Tennessee
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Hobbs meter wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
> BTW - thanks for the heads up on the lamp logic! I had assumed
that
> the operation of the "charge-indicating lamp" would be just the
> opposite... "off" during normal operation and "on" if the system was
> not charging (like the red ALT lamp in a ratty old C-150).
Of course you could always wire in a normally open relay that closes
on loss of power to create the first indicator scenario. My Bellanca
behaves in that manner.....
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
'71 SV, 492TC
Elmore City, OK
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Hobbs meter wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
The LCD display Hobbs hour meter draws 0.8mA. Wow, though I guess it
really isn't any different than a digital watch which runs from a very
small battery.
http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/hss/hobbsparts/products/lcdHourMeters.asp
I couldn't find an "I" value for the mechanical meters, but 3 watts should
be plenty - roughly 250mA.
Regards,
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
>
> Rodney -
>
> How much current does your Hobbs draw? The 914F manual that I have says
> that the Ducati "L" (lamp) line is good for a 3W/12V bulb. Seems like
> a neat idea if that's enough juice to power the Hobbs.
>
> BTW - thanks for the heads up on the lamp logic! I had assumed that the
> operation of the "charge-indicating lamp" would be just the opposite...
> "off" during normal operation and "on" if the system was not charging
> (like the red ALT lamp in a ratty old C-150).
>
> D
>
>
> Rodney Dunham wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rodney Dunham"
>> <rdunhamtn@hotmail.com>
>>
>> I've noticed on the Rotax 912UL wiring diagrams that the "L" pin on
>> the VR is for a lamp which indicates charge and is usually only "on"
>> at run-up speed or greater.
>>
>> Has anyone tried using this as a DCV source for the Hobbs meter? Seems
>> it would give good "flying time" readings and, or course, no falsely
>> high "I left the master switch on overnight" readings! Only engine on
>> and RPM's above warm-up times.
>>
>> I was thinking run a wire to the meter with an in-line fuse, say 3
>> amps, would do the trick.
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Rodney in Tennessee
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Not quite electrical |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Without thinking too hard I made provision for a vertical card compass
(2 1/4") about an inch away from my audio panel and radio stack in an
RV7. It is also about an inch above the Pictorial Pilot (auto pilot).
I was about to can the idea and install a VSI in that hole and mount a
whiskey compass on top of the panel...But being a tip up canopy I'm not
sure how resilient the compass would be to this kind of abuse.
So I thought I would ask....Is the Vert card compass completely
unworkable in this location?
Thanks
Frank
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Not quite electrical |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
That is where I mounted mine with the flexible base mount on top of the
glare shield. It is still working after 63 hours. I figure in a plane
doing aerobatics, it would be going through the tilt up and down anyway. I
had originally planned to mount it in the panel but changed after reading
the warnings and concerns of others due to magnetic and radio frequency
interference. I would like it better in the panel from a sight and
appearance stand point. However, I have more room in my panel for something
else if I want it later. From my setup the compass is only a backup
instrument in case I lost all my electronics AND hand helds with GPS
capability. What are the odds of that??
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathaniel Hawthorne
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Not quite electrical
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Without thinking too hard I made provision for a vertical card compass
> (2 1/4") about an inch away from my audio panel and radio stack in an
> RV7. It is also about an inch above the Pictorial Pilot (auto pilot).
>
> I was about to can the idea and install a VSI in that hole and mount a
> whiskey compass on top of the panel...But being a tip up canopy I'm not
> sure how resilient the compass would be to this kind of abuse.
>
> So I thought I would ask....Is the Vert card compass completely
> unworkable in this location?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
hi all,
i have the washers for toggle switches that have the small tab which locks into
a 1/8'' hole drilled in the ins. panel. before i drill all these 1/8'' holes
in a so far perfect panel does anyone have any opinions or experience with this
system? can the holes be hidden with the control labels? etc. seems like a
good idea to keep all the switches from turning.
thanks for any input.
bob noffs
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:06 PM 9/27/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
>
>hi all,
> i have the washers for toggle switches that have the small tab which
> locks into a 1/8'' hole drilled in the ins. panel. before i drill all
> these 1/8'' holes in a so far perfect panel does anyone have any opinions
> or experience with this system? can the holes be hidden with the control
> labels? etc. seems like a good idea to keep all the switches from
> turning.
> thanks for any input.
> bob noffs
I recommend them. You can put anti rotation washers on the back
side of the panel, trim the tabs to be flush with the front
surface and the cover them with an engraved overlay that
labels the switches.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Bob,
options:
Drill holes for positioning tabs install the tabbed washers out front (in
sight) and live with the look.
Drill very shallow holes from the rear side of the switch panel. If the
switch panel seems too thin for this add a doubler with the holes predrilled
in it. Put the tabs onto the switches tab out then install the switches
without the tabs or holes visible from the front. Flat washers without tabs
will keep the scratches to a minimum during install
keep building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
>
> hi all,
> i have the washers for toggle switches that have the small tab which locks
> into a 1/8'' hole drilled in the ins. panel. before i drill all these
> 1/8'' holes in a so far perfect panel does anyone have any opinions or
> experience with this system? can the holes be hidden with the control
> labels? etc. seems like a good idea to keep all the switches from turning.
> thanks for any input.
> bob noffs
>
>
>
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Bob,
options:
Drill holes for positioning tabs install the tabbed washers out front (in
sight) and live with the look.
Drill very shallow holes from the rear side of the switch panel. If the
switch panel seems too thin for this add a doubler with the holes predrilled
in it. Put the tabs onto the switches tab out then install the switches
without the tabs or holes visible from the front. Flat washers without tabs
will keep the scratches to a minimum during install
keep building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
>
> hi all,
> i have the washers for toggle switches that have the small tab which locks
> into a 1/8'' hole drilled in the ins. panel. before i drill all these
> 1/8'' holes in a so far perfect panel does anyone have any opinions or
> experience with this system? can the holes be hidden with the control
> labels? etc. seems like a good idea to keep all the switches from turning.
> thanks for any input.
> bob noffs
>
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Bob
One method of utilizing these washers which does not impact the panel itself, is
to add a strip of aluminium behind the panel where the switches are mounted
into which you drill these tab holes and which you drill for the switch bushings.
If your switches are in groups you can make one of these plates for each
group of switches. They are retained by the switches themselves and give the washers
the required antirotation grip without defacing the panel. As long as your
panel plus the backup strip thickness total less than the grip length of your
switches this will work. The added strip just needs to be as thick as the
depth of the washer tab.
Bob McC
>
> From: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
> Date: 2005/09/27 Tue PM 11:06:16 EDT> To: "aeroelectric list" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List:
>
>
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sigmo@aol.com
You can mount the tab washers on the back of the panel and drill the hole
part way through the panel.
Do not archive
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Unless your panel is really thin, you can drill a hole partially into
the rear of the panel and use these that way. No rotation, no visibility!
You do have to be careful, but you might be able to use a the same thing
you use to limit the depth of the countersinks or if you have a drill
press with stops.
Dick Tasker
bob noffs wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
>
>hi all,
> i have the washers for toggle switches that have the small tab which locks into
a 1/8'' hole drilled in the ins. panel. before i drill all these 1/8'' holes
in a so far perfect panel does anyone have any opinions or experience with this
system? can the holes be hidden with the control labels? etc. seems like a
good idea to keep all the switches from turning.
> thanks for any input.
> bob noffs
>
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
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Message 23
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@comcast.net
I drilled a very small hole, #40 I think, and then used a needle file to elongate
the hole just enough to fit the tang on the washer. The holes are competely
filled by the tang and don't show at all.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 133 hours
I drilled a very small hole, #40 I think, and then used a needle file to elongate
the hole just enough to fit the tang on the washer. The holes are competely
filled by the tang and don't show at all.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 133 hours
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